FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present disclosure is directed to high SPF anhydrous cosmetic
compositions. More specifically, the present disclosure is directed to high SPF
anhydrous cosmetic compositions in a stick format having enhanced anti-oiliness
properties, dry touch to the skin after the application combined with mate effect, and
with a very light, thin and invisible touch on the skin, wherein the anhydrous cosmetic
10 compositions comprising A) an emollient system, B) a filler system, and C) an UV filter
15
system. The present invention is also directed to a process of manufacturing the
anhydrous cosmetic compositions and their uses as a cosmetic sunscreen daily
product and for reducing the oiliness of the skin.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The photoprotection of keratinous materials, including both skin and hair,
is considered of great importance in order to protect from sun-damage, sunburn, photoaging,
as well as to decrease the chances of skin cancer development caused by
exposure to ultraviolet ("UV") radiation. There are typically two types of UVA/UVB
cosmetic sunscreen compositions used to accomplish photoprotection, namely,
20 inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters.
The degree of UV protection afforded by a cosmetic sunscreen
composition is directly related to the amount and type of UV filters contained therein.
The higher the amount of UV filters, the greater the degree of UV protection
(UVA/UVB). Particularly, cosmetic sunscreen compositions must provide good
25 protection against the sun, a measure of which is the Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
value, yet have satisfactory sensory perception, such as a smooth but not greasy feel
upon application.
Usually, cosmetic sunscreen products may be in the form of lotions,
milks, creams, gels, gel creams, foams, sprays and sticks. Such products can be
30 anhydrous or in the form of emulsions, generally containing cosmetic sunscreen
actives that are solubilized, emulsified, or dispersed in a vehicle, which is topically
applied onto the skin. The cosmetic sunscreen actives, typically through the aid of
polymers and other ingredients included in the vehicle, form a thin, protective, and
often water-resistant layer on the skin.
wo 2022/000052 2 PCT /BR2020/050235
Hydrophobic silica is commonly known in the cosmetic industry for
providing anti-oiliness and anti-acne effects, including in cosmetic sunscreen
compositions. However, the maximum concentration of silica in a composition is
limited, due to its high hydrophobic properties, thereby rendering the composition
5 instable when high concentrations of silica are applied. In this sense, cosmetic
sunscreen compositions are usually limited to have about 0.5% by weight of silica,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thus, there has been a need for cosmetic sunscreen compositions
having higher concentrations of silica, to enhance the anti-oiliness, dry touch and matte
10 effect thereof. The challenge of incorporating high concentrations of silica in the
cosmetic sunscreen composition is not only limited due to the hydrophobic nature of
the silica, but there is also the challenge on formulating stable compositions while
preserving satisfactory properties of the product, such as hardness, high SPF and dry
touch to the skin after application combined with matt effect.
15 Considering the current drawbacks of the state of the art and the
difficulties to overcome them, the inventors formulated an anhydrous cosmetic
composition that enables the high concentration of hydrophobic silica by combining an
emollient system, a filler system and an UV filter system. The anhydrous cosmetic
compositions of the present invention having high concentration of silica surprisingly
20 showed enhanced anti-oiliness effect, high SPF values, dry touch to the skin after
application combined with matte effect, and with a very light, thin and invisible touch
on the skin.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to anhydrous cosmetic compositions
25 having enhanced anti-oiliness effect, high SPF values, dry touch to the skin after
application combined with matte effect, and with a very light, thin and invisible touch
on the skin, comprising an emollient system, a filler system and an UV filter system.
The present disclosure is also directed to a process of manufacturing the anhydrous
cosmetic compositions and uses of the anhydrous cosmetic compositions.
30 Particularly, the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic
composition for the manufacture of a product to be used as a sunscreen daily product
and for reducing the oiliness of the skin.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent
from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which
wo 2022/000052 3 PCT /BR2020/050235
illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The anhydrous cosmetic compositions of the present invention can
comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of
5 the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional
ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
The terms "a", "an", and "the" are understood to encompass the plural as
well as the singular.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and
1 0 thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For
examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein
can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
The term "anhydrous" as used herein means that the cosmetic
15 composition of the present invention, and the essential or optional components thereof,
are substantially free of added or free water. From a formulation standpoint, this means
that the cosmetic composition of the present invention contains less than about 5%,
preferably less than about 3%, more preferably less than about 2% by weight, even
more preferably less than about 1% by weight of free or added water.
20 In an embodiment, the anhydrous cosmetic composition of the present
invention comprises:
(a) at least 1% by weight of an emollient system, relative to the total
weight of the composition;
(b) at least 0.5% by weight of a filler system, relative to the total weight
25 of the composition; and
(c) an UV filter system.
The composition according to the invention presents enhanced antioiliness
properties, high SPF values, dry touch to the skin after application combined
with matte effect, and, surprisingly, with a very light, thin and invisible touch on the
30 skin, given the strong synergy between the emollient system and the filler system.
In a preferred embodiment, the emollient system in the anhydrous
cosmetic composition of the present invention is from about 1% by weight to about
35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from
about 5% by weight to about 30% by weight, even more preferably from about 1 0% by
wo 2022/000052 4 PCT /BR2020/050235
weight to about 25% by weight, most preferably from about 15% by weight to about
25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The emollient system of the present invention comprises at least one
emollient selected from the group consisting of diisopropyl adipate, isononyl
5 isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate,
isopropyllauroyl sarcosinate, dibutyl adipate, isoamyl caprate-caprylate, and mixtures
thereof.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the emollient system
comprises a mixture of the emollients isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl ether and
10 diisopropyl adipate, which mixture has a weight ratio of 10:10:1.
In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the filler system in the
anhydrous cosmetic composition of the present invention is from about 0.5% by weight
to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably
from about 5% by weight to about 15% by weight, even more preferably from about
15 10% by weight to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The filler system of the present invention comprising at least one filler
selected from the group consisting of silica, silica silylate, talc, mica, cellulose and
mixtures thereof. As regards cellulose, this filler can be used in synergy or as a
substitute for talc or mica.
20 In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the filler system comprises a
mixture of the fillers silica, silica silylate, talc, and mica, which mixture has a weight
ratio of 2:1 :1.5:1.5.
In a preferred embodiment, the amount of the UV filter system in the
anhydrous cosmetic composition of the present invention is from about 0.1% by weight
25 to about 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably
from about 5% by weight to about 35% by weight, even more preferably from about
1 0% by weight to about 30% by weight, most preferably from about 15% by weight to
about 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The UV filter system of the present invention may comprise at least one
30 UV filter selected from the group of inorganic UV filters and organic UV filters, and
mixtures thereof. Also, any other organic UV filter that is oil soluble or inorganic UV
filter can be used in this composition.

SET OF CLAIMS
1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) at least 1% by weight of an emollient system, relative to the total
weight of the composition;
5 (b) at least 0.5% by weight of a filler system, relative to the total weight
of the composition; and
(c) an UV filter system
wherein the emollient system comprises at least one emollient selected
from the group consisting of diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl
10 ether, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate,
dibutyl adipate, isoamyl caprate-caprylate and mixtures thereof
wherein the filler system comprises at least one filler selected from the
group consisting of silica, silica silylate, talc, mica, cellulose and mixtures thereof.
2. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, wherein
15 the emollient system in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is from 1% by weight to
35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, wherein
the filler system in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is from 0.5% by weight to 20%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
20 4. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, wherein
the UV filter system in the anhydrous cosmetic composition is from 0.1% by weight to
40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, wherein
the UV filter comprises at least one UV filter selected from the group consisting of
25 inorganic UV filters, organic UV filters and mixtures thereof.
6. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 5, wherein
the UV filter system comprises at least one organic UV filter selected from the group
consisting of anthranilic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic
compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds;
30 13,13-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds;
benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bisbenzoazolyl
compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds;
methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds;
screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-
wo 2022/000052 25 PCT /BR2020/050235
diarylbutadienes compounds; guaiazulene and derivatives thereof; rutin and
derivatives thereof; flavonoids; bioflavonoids; oryzanol and derivatives thereof; quinic
acid and derivatives thereof; phenols; retinol; cysteine; aromatic amino acids; peptides
having an aromatic amino acid residue; and mixtures thereof.
5 7. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 5, wherein
the UV filter system comprises at least one inorganic UV filter selected from the group
consisting of silicon carbide, coated or uncoated metal oxides, and mixtures thereof.
8. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 1, further
comprising at least one additional fatty compound in an amount ranging from 20% by
1 0 weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.
15
9. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 8, wherein
the at least one additional fatty compound is selected from the group consisting of oils,
waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
10. An anhydrous cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) from 1% to 35% by weight of an emollient system, relative to the
total weight of the composition;
(b) from 0.5% to 20% by weight of a filler system, relative to the total
weight of the composition; and
(c) from 0.1% to 40% by weight of an UV filter system, relative to the
20 total weight of the composition.
11. A process of manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic composition
comprising: at least 1% by weight of an emollient system, relative to the total weight of
the composition; at least 0.5% by weight of a filler system, relative to the total weight
of the composition; and an UV filter system; wherein the process comprises the steps
25 of:
30
(a)
(b)
(a);
(c)
(d)
mixing the emollient system with the UV filter system;
optionally, incorporating additional ingredients to the mixture of step
incorporating the filler system to the mixture of step (b); and
homogenizing the mixture of step (c).
12. Use of the anhydrous cosmetic composition, as defined in any one
of claims 1 to 1 0, for the manufacture of a cosmetic product to be used as a sunscreen
daily product.