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A Biphasic Composition And Methods Thereof

Abstract: ABSTRACT A BIPHASIC COMPOSITION AND METHODS THEREOF The present disclosure relates to a biphasic composition for removing make up, for cleansing and for caring a keratinous layer, comprising: (i) an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one brightening active; (d) at least one anti-dullness active; and (e) water; and (ii) an oil phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant.

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Notices, Deadlines & Correspondence

Patent Information

Application #
Filing Date
19 December 2022
Publication Number
25/2024
Publication Type
INA
Invention Field
CHEMICAL
Status
Email
Parent Application

Applicants

L'OREAL
14 rue royale 75008 PARIS, France

Inventors

1. PANDIT, Pooja Vinayak
Loreal India Pvt. Ltd Universal majestic, Jeejabai Bhosale Marg, ACC Nagar, Chembur East, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400071, India
2. PANIGRAHI, Sudipa
Loreal R&I USA 111 Terminal Ave Clark New Jersey 07066, United States of America

Specification

FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: A BIPHASIC COMPOSITION AND METHODS THEREOF
2. Applicant(s)
NAME NATIONALITY ADDRESS
L'OREAL French 14 rue royale 75008 PARIS, France
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it
is to be performed.

FIELDOFINVENTION
[0001] The present disclosure relates to the field of cosmetics and personal care products. The present disclosure, in particular, relates to a biphasic cleansing composition for removing make up, cleansing or for caring a keratinous layer.
BACKGROUNDOFINVENTION
[0002] Generally, people are passionately inclined towards investing long hours to deck themselves with heavy and waterproof make up to look flawless. But on the other hand, people shy away from investing a minimal amount of time to remove the make up at the end of the day. However, the basis for obtaining a flawless skin is to maintain a clean and unclogged skin. Therefore, consumers are in a constant search for cosmetic products that can effectively and quickly remove make up.
[0003] Cleansers are commonly used products to clean up the skin. Though such traditional facial cleansers are sufficient to remove excess oil and dirt but are not effective in removing make up, in particular, waterproof make up. Also, such cleansers are harsh on sensitive and acne prone skin. One such alternative to traditional cleansers are biphasic cleansing compositions, also referred to as micellar water in the consumer market.
[0004] Micellar water products include predominantly water with an optimized ratio of exfoliating agents to remove all kinds of waterproof make up and dirt. Such products in the consumer market also claim to provide additional benefits like providing moisturized and bright skin, post use of those products. However, the so called versatile micellar water products tend to cause skin irritation due to the presence of high amounts of exfoliating agents and also leave the skin sticky due to the presence of undesirable amounts of oil phase ingredients.

[0005] Therefore, there is a need to develop biphasic compositions with desired amount of aqueous phase and oil phase ingredients in order to achieve an effective removal of make-up and also, to ensure nourished and brighter skin post use, while being suitable for all skin types.
SUMMARYOFTHEINVENTION
[0006] In an aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a biphasic composition comprising: an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one brightening active; (d) at least one anti-dullness active; and (e) water; and an oil phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant.
[0007] In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a method for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, the body, or the hair, characterized in that the cleansing composition as described herein is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, or the hair.
[0008] In one another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a use of the composition as described herein for removal of makeup, for cleansing and/or for caring a keratinous layer.
[0009] These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and appended claims. This summary is provided to introduce a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
[0010] The following drawings form a part of the present specification and are included to further illustrate aspects of the present disclosure. The disclosure may

be better understood by reference to the drawings in combination with the detailed description of the specific embodiments presented herein.
[0011] Figure 1 illustrates the effect of biphasic compositions on skin brightening parameters (A) skin lightening (dL); (B) change in saturation (dC); (C) change in hue (dH); (D) colour change (dE94), in accordance with an embodiment of the present disclosure.
DETAILEDDESCRIPTIONOFTHEINVENTION
[0012] Those skilled in the art will be aware that the present disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is to be understood that the present disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions, and compounds referred to or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any and all combinations of any or more of such steps or features.
Definitions
[0013] For convenience, before further description of the present disclosure, certain terms employed in the specification, and examples are delineated here. These definitions should be read in light of the remainder of the disclosure and understood as by a person of skill in the art. The terms used herein have the meanings recognized and known to those of skill in the art, however, for convenience and completeness, particular terms and their meanings are set forth below.
[0014] The articles “a”, “an” and “the” are used to refer to one or to more than one (i.e., to at least one) of the grammatical object of the article.
[0015] The terms “comprise” and “comprising” are used in the inclusive, open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. It is not intended to be construed as “consists of only”.

[0016] The term "at least one" is used to mean one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
[0017] Throughout this specification, unless the context requires otherwise the word “comprise”, and variations such as “comprises” and “comprising”, will be understood to imply the inclusion of a stated element or step or group of element or steps but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of element or steps.
[0018] The term “including” is used to mean “including but not limited to”. “including” and “including but not limited to” are used interchangeably.
[0019] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to identify cosmetic or personal care ingredients.
[0020] The term “oil” as used herein refers to compounds and/or mixtures of compounds which are water-insoluble, and which have a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25°C.
[0021] The term “biphasic” is used to mean a composition constituting a distinct aqueous and a distinct oily phase. According to the present disclosure, the two phases are separate with the aqueous phase forming the bottom or lower phase and the oily phase forming the upper or top phase. The two phases are not emulsified in each other at rest. However, the biphasic composition on mixing, such as shaking transforms into a turbid single phase composition, which is then applied onto a keratinous layer such as skin. The terms “biphasic” and “two-phase” are used interchangeably in the present disclosure. The biphasic composition is capable of transforming into a single phase composition and the single phase composition is capable of transforming into the biphasic composition.
[0022] The term “ silicone and alcohol free” or “free of silicones and alcohols” as used herein means that the cleansing composition as disclosed herein is essentially

free of any alcohol and/or silicone containing ingredients. In particular, “essentially free of any alcohol and/or silicone containing ingredients” means that the alcohol and/or silicone containing ingredients may be present in the composition in an amount of less than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. In an embodiment, the composition is completely free of silicone. In another embodiment, the composition is completely free of alcohol. In yet another embodiment the composition is completely free of silicone and alcohol.
[0023] All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the formulations of the present disclosure unless otherwise indicated. Ratios, concentrations, amounts, and other numerical data may be presented herein in a range format. It is to be understood that such range format is used merely for convenience and brevity and should be interpreted flexibly to include not only the numerical values explicitly recited as the limits of the range, but also to include all the individual numerical values or sub-ranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and sub-range is explicitly recited. For example, a percentage range of about 0.01 % to 5.5 % should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly recited limits of about 0.01 % to about 5 %, but also to include sub-ranges, such as 2% to 3 %, 3 % to 4%, and so forth, as well as individual amounts, including fractional amounts, within the specified ranges, such as 2.84 %, and 3 %, for example.
[0024] Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this disclosure belongs. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, the preferred methods and materials are now described. All publications mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference.
[0025] The present disclosure is not to be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for the purposes of

exemplification only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and methods are clearly within the scope of the disclosure, as described herein.
[0026] Embodiments herein provide a biphasic composition, preferably an alcohol and silicone free biphasic composition for removal of makeup, for cleansing and/or for caring a keratinous layer. The disclosed embodiments include a biphasic composition, a method for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, the body, or the hair, and use of the composition for removal of makeup, for cleansing and/or for caring a keratinous layer. In various embodiments herein, the composition is a biphasic cleansing composition having improved cosmetic properties, which addresses the drawbacks of existing cleansing products. Generally, biphasic cleansing products may be harsh and non-suitable for acne prone skin due to the presence of higher amounts of alpha hydroxy acids. Also, such biphasic cleansing products may not be stable enough to retain their phase characteristics for a prolonged period of time and hence are deficient in providing additional skin care benefits. Hence, the composition according to embodiments herein is an alcohol and silicone free biphasic composition that is capable of transforming into a single phase composition, stable across temperatures, provides effective make up removal, soft peeling, and therefore, mild and suitable for even sensitive skin types such as acne prone skin. Additionally, the composition provides enhanced skin care benefits such as instant and progressive brightness of the skin; even skin tone with reduced acne scars and pigment spots; smooth and hydrated skin post the regular use of the composition. The embodiments herein, further, include a method for the preparation of the biphasic composition.
Composition
[0027] Embodiments herein provide the composition for make-up removal, for cleansing and for caring a keratinous layer. The composition, according to embodiments herein, is an alcohol and silicone free, biphasic, and no-rinse composition. Further, the composition, according to embodiments herein offers enhanced benefits to the keratinous layer, such as instant and progressive

brightening, even skin tone, skin tone enhancement, glow, smooth and non-sticky skin feel post using the composition. In an embodiment, the composition comprises an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one brightening active; (d) at least one anti-dullness active; and (e) water; an oil phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant.
[0028] In other embodiments, the aqueous phase further includes at least one pH adjuster, at least one oil control active, at least one buffer, at least one surfactant, at least one active compound, at least one preservative, or mixtures thereof.
[0029] In another embodiment, there is provided a composition comprising: an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) at least one brightening active in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) at least one anti-dullness active in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (e) water in an amount ranging from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; an oil phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] In yet another embodiment, there is provided a composition comprising: an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5 wt %; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2 wt %, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5 wt %; (c) at least one brightening active in an amount ranging from

0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3 wt %, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5 wt %; (d) at least one anti-dullness active in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 1 wt %, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt %; and (e) water is in an amount ranging from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75 to 85 wt %, more preferably from 80 to 85 wt %; an oil phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 to 8 wt %; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9 wt %, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8 wt %.
[0031] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase and oil phase are in a weight ratio range of 90:10 to 93:7, preferably in a ratio range of 91:9 to 93:7, more preferably in a ratio of 92:8.
Aqueous phase
[0032] The composition according to embodiments herein comprises an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5 wt %; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2 wt %, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5 wt %; (c) at least one brightening active in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3 wt %, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5 wt %; (d) at least one anti-dullness active in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 1 wt %, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt %; and (e) water is in an amount ranging from 70% to 90% by

weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75 to 85 wt %, more preferably from 80 to 85 wt %.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid
[0033] The aqueous phase of the composition according to embodiments herein include at least one alpha hydroxy acid, which functions as a soft peeling active and exfoliates the skin, aiding in the removal of dead skin cells and also, promoting new skin cell generation. Alpha hydroxy acid may be a single type of alpha hydroxy acid, but two or more different types of alpha hydroxy acids may also be used in combination. The alpha hydroxy acid is part of the aqueous phase of the present disclosure. Therefore, the aqueous phase of the present disclosure comprises at least one alpha hydroxy acid.
[0034] The term “alpha hydroxy acid”, “α-hydroxy acid”, or “AHA” is used herein to mean a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.
[0035] The alpha hydroxy acid may be represented by the following chemical formula:
(Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH
where Ra and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, I, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group of saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or non-isomeric, straight or branched chain or cyclic form, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and in addition Ra and Rb may carry OH, CHO, COOH and alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.
[0036] The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I, or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. The alpha hydroxy acid may be present as a free acid or in lactone form, or in a partial salt form with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. The alpha hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers such as D, L, DL and meso forms.

[0037] When Ra and Rb are alkyl, they independently can be within any of the groups of C1-C5, C6-C10, C11-C15, C16-C20, C21-C25 and C26-C29. Compounds within the above chemical formula thus include all of the possible combinations of Ra and Rb. Included within the foregoing is a subgenus of compounds having Ra and Rb independently selected from C1-C12.
[0038] Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for Ra and Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl, and ethoxyl.
[0039] The alpha hydroxy acids of the first group may be subdivided into:
(1) alkyl alpha hydroxy acids,
(2) aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids,
(3) poly(hydroxy) alpha hydroxy acids,
(4) polycarboxylic alpha hydroxy acids, and
(5) miscellaneous alpha hydroxy acids.
[0040] The following are representative alpha hydroxy acids in each subgroup.
(1) Alkyl Alpha Hydroxy Acids: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid), 2-
hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid
(methyllactic acid), 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-
hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-
hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-
hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic
acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha
hydroxyarachidonic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (cerebronic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid (alpha hydroxynervonic acid) and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanoic acid (pantoic acid)

(2) Aralkyl and Aryl Alpha Hydroxy Acids: 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzilic acid), 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2-phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid) and 4-hydroxymandelic acid.
(3) Poly(hydroxy) Alpha Hydroxy Acids: 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid (glyceric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid (isomers; erythronic acid, threonic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid (isomers; ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid (isomers; allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, talonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (isomers; glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, mannoheptonic acid, etc.)
(4) Polycarboxylic Alpha Hydroxy Acids: 2-hydroxypropane-1,3-dioic acid
(tartronic acid); 2-hydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (malic acid); 2-hydroxy-2-
methylbutane-1,4-dioic acid (citramalic acid); 2,3-dihydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid
(tartaric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxypentane-1,5-dioic acid (isomers; ribaric acid,
arabaric acid, xylaric acid, lyxaric acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexane-1,6-dioic acid
(isomers; glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, allaric acid, altraric acid,
gularic acid, idaric acid, talaric acid). ;.
(5) Miscellaneous Alpha Hydroxy Acids: glyceruronic acid, erythruronic acid,
threuronic acid; 2,3,4-trihydroxypentanuronic acids (isomers; riburonic acid,
arabinuronic acid, xyluronic acid, lyxuronic acid); 2,3,4,5-
tetrahydroxyhexanuronic acid (isomers; alluronic acid, altruronic acid, glucuronic
acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic
acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptanuronic acid (isomers; alloheptanuronic acid,
altroheptanuronic acid, glucoheptanuronic acid, mannoheptanuronic acid,
guloheptanuronic acid, idoheptanuronic acid, galactoheptanuronic acid,
taloheptanuronic acid).
[0041] According to a preferred embodiment the alpha hydroxy acid is an alkyl alpha hydroxy acid or an aralkyl hydroxy acid and is preferably selected from

glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0042] The amount of alpha hydroxy acid in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The alpha hydroxy acid, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5 wt %.
[0043] According to a more preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is a combination of lactic acid and glycolic acid, wherein lactic acid may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 wt %; and glycolic acid is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt %, more preferably from 0.7 to 1.5 wt %.
Poly(hydroxy) acid
[0044] The aqueous phase of the composition according to embodiments herein includes at least one poly(hydroxy) acid, which functions as a soft peeling active similar to AHA but are gentler in action compared to AHA. Poly(hydroxy) acids provides gentle exfoliation and evens the skin texture. The poly(hydroxy) acid may be a single type of poly(hydroxy) acid, but two or more different types of the poly(hydroxy) acids may also be used in combination. The poly(hydroxy) acid is part of the aqueous phase of the present disclosure. The aqueous phase of the present disclosure comprises at least one poly(hydroxy) acid. Therefore, the poly(hydroxy) acid forms an aqueous layer at rest in the composition.
[0045] The term “poly(hydroxy) acid”, or “PHA” is used herein to mean a carboxylic acid with two or more hydroxyl groups attached to carbon atoms or an alicyclic chain. It is essential that at least one hydroxyl group be attached to the alpha carbon atom. Examples of poly(hydroxy) acids include gluconolactone,

galactonic acid, lactobionic acid or mixtures thereof. Further, attaching a sugar molecule to the PHA structure results in a polysaccharide known as bionic acid (PHBA), such moclecules are referred to as poly(hydroxy) bionic acids or PHBA. Example of a PHBA is lactobionic acid.
[0046] According to a preferred embodiment the poly(hydroxy) acid is selected from gluconolactone, galactonic acid, lactobionic acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0047] According to a more preferred embodiment, the poly(hydroxy) acid is gluconolactone.
[0048] The amount of poly(hydroxy) acid in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The poly(hydroxy) acid, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2 wt %, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5 wt %.
Brightening active
[0049] The aqueous phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or more brightening actives, which are used to regulate excess oil, reduce large pores, promote nourished skin and thereby provides enhanced skin brightening effects. Examples of brightening actives include but not limited to niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C, azelaic acid, retinoids, hydroquinone, linoleic acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0050] According to a preferred embodiment, the brightening active is niacinamide.
[0051] The amount of brightening active in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The brightening active, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3 wt %, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5 wt %.

Anti-dullness active
[0052] The aqueous phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or more anti-dullness actives, which are used to enhance the appearance of dull and dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. Examples of anti-dullness actives include but not limited to caffeine, polyglutamic acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0053] According to a preferred embodiment, the anti-dullness active is caffeine.
[0054] The amount of anti-dullness active in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The anti-dullness active, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 1 wt %, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt %.
Water
[0055] The aqueous phase of the composition according to embodiments herein comprises water, which is a solvent for dissolving the ingredients of the aqueous phase. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
[0056] According to a preferred embodiment, the water is sterile demineralized water.
[0057] The amount of water in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The water, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 70% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75 to 85 wt %, more preferably from 80 to 85 wt %.

Oil phase
[0058] The composition according to embodiments herein comprises an oil phase comprising: (a) at least one emollient in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 to 8 wt %; and (b) optionally at least one antioxidant in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1 wt % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9 wt %, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8 wt %.
Emollient
[0059] The oil phase of the composition according to embodiments herein include one or more emollients. Emollients functions as occlusive agents to lock moisture in the skin and therefore leaves the skin soft, smooth and hydrated. Emollients according to embodiments herein may be a single type of oil but two or more different types of oils may also be used in combination.
[0060] Examples of emollients include but not limited to hydrocarbon oil, vegetable oil, mineral oil, oils such as the esters of fatty acids, or mixtures thereof.
Hydrocarbon oil
[0061] The hydrocarbon oil can form the oil phase of the composition according to the present disclosure.
[0062] The term “hydrocarbon” here means a compound formed by carbon and hydrogen atoms, and does not comprise any heteroatom such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms.
[0063] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, alicyclic hydrocarbon oils and aromatic hydrocarbon oils, preferably aliphatic hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably aliphatic and saturated hydrocarbon oils.

[0064] The hydrocarbon oil may be volatile or non-volatile. It is preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be volatile. In other words, it is preferable that the hydrocarbon oil be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
[0065] For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term “volatile” oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratinous layer in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oil may be a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).
[0066] According to one preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil has a flash point of greater than 65°C, and better still greater than 80°C.
[0067] The hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably volatile branched C8-C16 hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably volatile branched C8-C16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins). It may be even more preferable the hydrocarbon oil be selected from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), and mixtures thereof.
[0068] In another instance, the hydrocarbon oil may also be a linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and 17qualene.
[0069] On the other hand, the hydrocarbon oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Examples include but not limited to n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] In particular, the hydrocarbon oil may be selected from isohexadecane, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, liquid paraffin, or mixtures thereof.
Esters of fatty acids
[0071] The oils, such as esters of fatty acid can form the oil phase of the composition according to the present disclosure.
[0072] Examples of oils which are esters of fatty acids include but not limited to synthetic esters of fatty acids such as the oils having the formula R1COOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R1 + R2 > 10, such as for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, cetaryl isoneonate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxy stearate, diisostearyl-malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the emollient is selected from isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate, isododecane, liquid paraffin, esters like isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, cetaryl isoneonate, undecane, tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0074] According to a more preferred embodiment, the emollient is a combination of isododecane, isohexadecane, and isopropyl myristate.
[0075] The amount of emollient in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The emollient, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15 wt % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13%, more preferably from 0.1 to 8 wt %.
Antioxidant
[0076] The oil phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or more antioxidants, which are used to nourish the skin and also, protect the skin from any oxidative damage. Examples of antioxidants include but not limited to vitamin E, vitamin A, polyphenols, or mixtures thereof. Antioxidants also include derivatives of vitamin E, derivatives of vitamin A, derivatives of polyphenols, or mixtures thereof.
[0077] According to a preferred embodiment, the antioxidant is vitamin E.
[0078] The amount of antioxidant in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The antioxidant, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 1 wt % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9 wt %, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8 wt %.
Other additives
[0079] The composition, particularly the aqueous phase according to embodiments herein, may also include one or more additives, which may be notably chosen from at least one pH adjuster, at least one oil control active, at least one buffer, at least one surfactant, at least one active compound, at least one preservative, or mixtures thereof. It is understood that a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties

of the composition used according to the disclosure are not, or are not, adversely affected by the envisaged addition. All such embodiments including the optional additives are understood to be included within the scope of the present disclosure.
pH adjuster
[0080] The aqueous phase of the composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or more pH adjusters. The pH of the composition according to the present disclosure may be adjusted to the desired value using at least one pH adjuster, such as an acidifying or a basifying agent, for example, which are commonly used in cosmetic products.
[0081] The pH adjusters as part of the aqueous phase of the composition maintains the pH of the biphasic composition in a range of 4.2 to 4.8, preferably in a range of 4.3 to 4.7, more preferably in a range of 4.4 to 4.6.
[0082] pH adjuster may include acidifying agents, basifying agents or combinations thereof. Examples of acidifying agents include but are not limited to mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, or sulphonic acid.
[0083] Examples of basifying agents include but not limited to ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxide, alkali earth metal hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamines, and compounds of the formula below:

wherein
R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and R1, R2, R3, and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom,

an alkyl radical, or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical. and also their derivatives, preferably sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or triethanolamines.
[0084] According to preferred embodiments herein, the pH adjuster is potassium hydroxide.
[0085] The amount of pH adjuster in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The pH adjuster, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 2 wt %, more preferably from 0.02 to 1.5 wt %.
Oil control Active
[0086] The composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or more oil control active, which are used to absorb excess sebum oil, unclog pores and further helps control acne. Examples of oil control active include but not limited to zinc gluconate, charcoal, salicylic acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0087] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil-control active is zinc gluconate.
[0088] The amount of oil-control active in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The oil-control active, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 wt %.
Buffer
[0089] The composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or more buffer, which are used to neutralize any residual acidity of the ingredients in the composition. Examples of buffer include but not limited to citric acid, sodium citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, tri-C12-13 alkyl citrate, tri-C14-15 alkyl

citrate, tricaprylyl citrate, triethylhexyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, isodecyl citrate, stearyl citrate, dilauryl citrate, ethyl citrate, or mixtures thereof.
[0090] According to a preferred embodiment, the buffer is a combination of citric acid, sodium citrate, and triethyl citrate, more preferably a combination of sodium citrate, and triethyl citrate.
[0091] The amount of buffer in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The buffer, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 2.3 wt %, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.1 wt %.
Surfactant
[0092] The composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or more surfactant, which are used to provide cleansing properties to the composition. Examples of surfactant include but not limited to polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyethylene glycol (PEG) -6 caprylic capric glycerides, poloxamer 184, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, or mixtures thereof.
[0093] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant is polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate.
[0094] The amount of surfactant in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The surfactant, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 1 wt % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.008 to 0.8 wt %, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.4 wt %.
Active compound

[0095] The composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or more active compound, which are used to provide additional cosmetic/ dermatological effect, such as for caring a keratinous layer. Examples of active compound include but not limited to sodium chloride, hydroxy acetophenone, or mixtures thereof.
[0096] According to a preferred embodiment, the active compound is sodium chloride and hydroxy acetophenone.
[0097] The amount of active compound in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The active compound, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1.5 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt %.
Preservative
[0098] The composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or more preservatives, which are used to protect the composition chemical and biological degradation from microbial contamination and any associated degradation of the composition. Examples of preservatives include but not limited to mytrimonium bromide, phenoxy ethanol, caprylyl glycol, parabens, pentylene glycol, methylisothiazolinone, benzisothiazolinone methylchloroisothiazolinone, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, or mixtures thereof.
[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, the preservative is mytrimonium bromide.
[0100] The amount of preservative in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The preservative, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 0.3 wt %, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1 wt %.
Preparation of the compositions according to the disclosure

[0101] The compositions according to the disclosure may be manufactured using known processes, used in the cosmetics or dermatology field. Typically, the process includes blending of a first active compound, a brightening active, an anti-dullness active and a poly(hydroxy) acid in water at room temperature to obtain the first mixture. A first buffer component, a second active compound, and a surfactant are added to water heated to a temperature of about 60 to 65 ℃, mixed thoroughly to obtain the second mixture. A second buffer component and an oil control active are mixed at about 60 ℃ with the second mixture and then blended further with the first mixture in the main vessel, and eventually cooled down the obtained third mixture to room temperature. A preservative, alpha hydroxy acids and a pH adjuster were added to the third mixture, blended at room temperature to obtain the clear water phase with the desired pH. Emollient and antioxidant are mixed at room temperature to obtain the oil phase.
[0102] According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase and oil phase are mixed in a weight ratio range of 90:10 to 93:7, preferably in a ratio range of 91:9 to 93:7, particularly in a ratio of 92:8.
[0103] According to a more preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase and oil phase are mixed in a weight ratio of 92:8 to obtain the biphasic composition. It is preferable that the step of mixing the oil phase and the aqueous phase be performed gently such that the oil phase and the aqueous phase are slowly poured into a vessel such as a container.
Form
[0104] It is preferable that the composition according to the present disclosure be in the form of a biphasic liquid at 25°C and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). If the specific gravity of the oil phase is smaller than that of the aqueous phase, the oil phase is present on the aqueous phase, in the composition according to the present disclosure. Typically, the oil phase is present on the aqueous phase, at rest, because the specific gravity of oil tends to be smaller than that of water.

[0105] The composition, according to a preferred embodiment is capable of transforming into a single phase composition after shaking. The single phase composition does not have two distinct aqueous and oil phase and has a single phase, which is typically an emulsion phase. The emulsion phase may not be transparent, but it may be turbid in appearance.
[0106] The single phase composition according to another preferred embodiment is capable of transforming into the biphasic composition upon rest.
[0107] The pH of the composition according to the present disclosure may be acidic. For example, the pH of the composition according to the present disclosure is in a range of 4.2 to 4.8, preferably in a range of 4.3 to 4.7, more preferably in a range of 4.4 to 4.6.
[0108] The composition according to the present invention may be in any form such as a liquid, solution, or liquid gel .
[0109] The composition according to the present disclosure may be a cleansing biphasic composition. Thus, the cleansing composition according to the present disclosure may be intended for application onto a keratinous layer. The term “keratinous layer” here refers to the most-surface level portion of the human epidermis containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cleansing composition according to the present disclosure be used for a cosmetic process for cleansing and/or for caring the keratinous layer, in particular the skin the lips and/or the eyes, the body, or the hair.
[0110] The composition according to the present disclosure may preferably be a no-rinse composition. The no-rinse cleansing composition is capable of removing dirt, sebum and/or makeup on a keratinous layer such as skin, face lips and eyes from the keratinous layer.

Use and method
[0111] A composition, according to embodiments herein, may more particularly be a composition for cleansing and caring of a keratinous layer, such as the human skin, face, lips, or eyes. Preferably, the composition, according to embodiments herein, is a composition for removing all types of make-up, for cleansing and brightening the skin. Accordingly, the composition, in various embodiments herein, may be a face wash, a cleansing serum, or a cleansing solution. The composition may further be in any suitable form, for example, gel, liquid gel, or liquid form. In a preferable embodiment, the composition is in the form of liquid cleanser.
[0112] The composition, according to embodiments herein, when using the composition will be mixed by, for example, shaking with the hands (hand-shaking). After mixing, the biphasic composition according to embodiments herein transforms into a single-phase composition. The single-phase composition is immediately applied on the keratinous layer to deliver the desired cosmetic effects.
[0113] The composition according to the present disclosure may preferably be used by being impregnated onto a porous substrate such as a non-woven fabric preferably made from cellulose fibers such as cotton. Followed by swiping the cotton on the desired area of the keratinous layer to remove make up, dirt, etc.
[0114] According to preferred embodiments herein, method for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, the body, or the hair, characterized in that the cleansing composition is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, or the hair.
[0115] Although the present disclosure has been described in considerable detail with reference to certain embodiments and implementations thereof, other embodiments are possible to cover the modifications and variations of the present disclosure.

Examples
[0116] The disclosure will now be illustrated with working examples, which is intended to illustrate the working of disclosure and not intended to take restrictively to imply any limitations on the scope of the present disclosure. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood to one of ordinary skill in the art to which this disclosure belongs. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice of the disclosed methods and compositions, the exemplary methods, devices, and materials are described herein. It is to be understood that this disclosure is not limited to particular methods, and experimental conditions described, as such methods and conditions may apply.
[0117] Ingredient amounts are indicated in the following examples in active material weight percentages.
Measurement and Evaluation Methods
[0118] The compositions C(1) to C(3) as prepared in the ensuing Example 1 were evaluated for their stability characteristics, pH and sensorial aspects.
Evaluation of stability
[0119] The stability of the compositions was evaluated by placing the compositions at various temperatures in a range from 4°C to 60°C, such as 4°C, 25 °C, 37 °C, and 45 °C for a period of 2 months. The observation of haziness, discoloration, or crystallization and any other change in appearance of the compositions were verified.
Evaluation of pH
[0120] The pH of the compositions were determined using standard laboratory protocols.
Sensorial evaluation

Quantitative consumer test
[0121] Test protocol: Monadic with 4 weeks home use and followed by 1 week of deprivation. Human volunteers(n=600) aged 18-35 years were involved in the test, to assess the sensory aspects, such as progressive and immediate brightening, effective make up removal, non-sticky feel, suitability for acne prone skin, skin respect, skin/eye irritant profile, and skin respect of compositions according to the invention and commercial products.
Qualitative consumer test-1
[0122] Test protocol: 40 human volunteers split into panels of 20 each, aged 18-35 years, wherein 50% of whom had normal skin and 50% had oily skin and who were regular users of makeup-removing two-phase products were involved in the test, to assess the sensory aspects, such as immediate brightening, effective make up removal, non-greasy feel, and skin/eye irritant profile, of compositions according to the invention and commercial products.
Qualitative consumer test-2
[0123] Test protocol: 40 human volunteers, aged 18-35 years, wherein 50% of whom had normal skin and 50% had oily skin and who were regular users of makeup-removing two-phase products were involved in the test, to assess the sensory aspects, such as progressive brightening, non-sticky feel, and skin/eye irritant profile, of compositions according to the invention and commercial products. A recommended usage instruction provided to the volunteers was to not rinse the face after using the composition.
Example 1
Determining the effect of altered weight range of AHA in a biphasic composition on skin safety

[0124] Biphasic composition, C(1) in accordance with the present disclosure was prepared by the process described herein and the comparative compositions, C(2), C(3) and C(3) provided in Table 1 were also prepared.
[0125] The process includes blending of a first active compound, a brightening active, an anti-dullness active and a poly(hydroxy) acid in water at room temperature to obtain the first mixture. A first buffer component, a second active compound, and surfactant are added to water heated to a temperature of about 60 to 65℃, mixed thoroughly to obtain the second mixture. A second buffer component and an oil control active are mixed at about 60℃ with the second mixture and then blended further with the first mixture in the main vessel, and eventually cooled down the obtained third mixture to room temperature. A preservative, alpha hydroxy acids and a pH adjuster are added to the third mixture, blended at room temperature to obtain the clear water phase and with the desired pH. Emollients and antioxidant are mixed at room temperature to obtain the oil phase.
[0126] The effect of the biphasic compositions prepared in accordance with the present disclosure and comparative compositions on skin safety was determined using a pilot scale study. In this study, about 12 healthy volunteers were instructed to apply the compositions on their face and report any signs of eye irritation, burning sensation or tingling sensation of the facial skin.
Results
[0127] The results obtained with compositions C(1) to C(3) with respect to skin safety are described in detail below.
[0128] The composition C(1) in accordance with the present disclosure was reported to be safe and did not elicit any irritation or burning sensation in the volunteers post use. The comparative compositions C(2) and C(3) with a pH of 4, which was beyond the desired range elicited eye irritation and skin burning sensation in 33% of the volunteers. Therefore, it is necessary that all the parameters such as the specific components, their weight ranges and pH should be within the

desired ranges as disclosed herein, to obtain the desirable biphasic cleansing composition.
Table 1

Phase Function of ingredients Ingredients (INCI Name) Content (% By Weight Relative To
The Total Weight Of The
composition)



C(1) C(2) C(3)
Water Alkali / pH Adjuster Potassium hydroxide 1.10 0.98 0.97
Water Brightening Active Niacinamide 2.01 2.01 2.01
Water AHA Lactic acid 0.37 0.92 1.1
Water AHA Glycolic acid 0.92 0.37 0.46
Water Anti-Dullness Active Caffeine 0.50 0.5 0.5
Water Oil Control Active Zinc gluconate 0.23 0.23 0.23
Water PHA Gluconolactone 1.49 1.49 1.49
Water Solvent Water 82.55 83.65 82.41
Water Buffer Sodium citrate 0.10 0.10 0.10
Water Buffer Triethyl citrate 1.84 1.84 1.84
Water Buffer Citric acid 0.04 0.04 0.04
Water Active Compound Sodium chloride 0.46 0.46 0.46
Water Surfactant Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate 0.05 0.05 0.05
Water Active Compound Hydroxyacetophenone 0.28 0.28 0.28
Water Preservative Myrtrimonium bromide 0.06 0.06 0.06
Oil Antioxidant (Vitamin E) Tocopheryl acetate 0.7 0.7 0.7
Oil Emollient Isopropyl myristate 0.56 0.56 0.56
Oil Emollient Isohexadecane 4.34 4.34 4.34
Oil Emollient Isododecane 2.4 2.4 2.4
P roduct evaluation pH 4.5 4 4

33%
(4/12)
reported 33%
(4/12)
reported
Skin safety assessment No irritation irritation
and/or burning sensation irritation
and/or
burning
sensation
[0129] Accordingly, it is observed that the use of specific ingredients as disclosed in various embodiments herein facilitated in achieving the cleansing composition with desired physical and skin safety properties.
Example 2
Sensorial evaluation
[0130] Selected working composition(s) were evaluated with respect to various sensorial aspects, such as progressive and immediate brightening, effective make up removal, non-sticky feel, suitability for acne prone skin, skin respect, and skin/eye irritant profile, in comparison with selected commercial products.
[0131] Each of the sensorial aspects were evaluated using a combination of qualitative consumer tests, quantitative consumer tests, instrumental test and in vitro test, which ever applicable.
I. Progressive brightening
[0132] Progressive brightening effect provided by the compositions were assessed using a combination of a qualitative consumer test, and a quantitative consumer test.
Qualitative consumer test-2
[0133] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure was qualitatively evaluated for its progressive brightening effect on the human skin.
Results

[0134] Within 30 days of using the composition C(1) majority of the volunteers appreciated visible progressive enhancement of their skin brightness and glow for about 1-3 levels higher than the untreated skin.
Quantitative consumer test
[0135] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleanser product CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their progressive brightening effect on the skin.
Table 2

C(1) CP(1) CP(2)
Aqueous phase : Oil phase 92:8 85:15 88:12
Results
[0136] 91% of volunteers reported significant increase in the association of progressive brightening for C(1) against both commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).
[0137] Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure comprising an optimal combination of actives like niacinamide-skin brightening active, glycolic acid and lactic acid- AHA, caffeine-anti-dullness active as part of the biphasic composition with an aqueous: oil ratio of 92:8 provided progressive skin brightening effects.
II. Effective make up removal
[0138] The make-up removal efficiency of the compositions in accordance with the present disclosure in comparison to commercial products were assessed by a

combination of an instrumental test, a qualitative consumer test, and a quantitative consumer test.
[0139] The make-up removal efficiency of the compositions in accordance with the present disclosure (C(1)) in comparison to commercial product (CP(3)) were assessed by a test involving stubborn mascara removal by 8 volunteers; aged 18-60, with medium-long lashes, and with no hooded eyelids.
Protocol: Mascara removal
Step 1 → Per eye: Used 3 cotton rounds (smooth side), each soaked with 2 ml of test formula. Then, for both eyes at the same time:
Step 2 → Applied first cotton round to closed eyes and left for 5 seconds (this was just done for the first cotton round).
Step 3 → With volunteer’s eyes closed, slide the cotton round 3 times in an outward swooping movement that follows the lashes from the inner to outer corner.
Step 4 → With volunteer's eyes open, slide the same cotton round 1 time in an inward swooping movement on the skin along the very base of the lower lashes, following the lash line from the outer to inner corner. Then with volunteer’s eyes closed, slide the cotton round 1 time using the outward swooping movement. The open/closed eye gestures was repeated 2 more times (3 times in total) with the same cotton round.
Step 5 → Steps 3-4 were repeated for the second and third cotton rounds.
Step 6 → A waiting time of 5 minutes was followed for any residue to dry.
Step 7 → 2 ml of positive control was applied to cotton round (smooth side) and repeated the removal process from Steps 2-4, again holding just the first cotton round for 5 seconds.

Step 8 → Repeated Step 7 for up to a total of 6 cotton rounds (last cotton round used should be “clean”).
Step 9 → Counted rounds for efficacy as per method.
Table 3

Stubborn High Medium- Medium Low- Low
make up high medium
removal
efficiency
No. of 0-1.0 1.5-2.5 3.0-3.5 4.0-4.5 5.0-6.0
cotton pads
Results
[0140] Composition C(1) exhibited a medium level of make-up removal efficiency(i.e. 1.5 to 2.5 rounds of cotton) whereas the commercial product CP(3) exhibited a low make up removal efficiency (5 to 6 cotton rounds). CP(3) had aqueous phase to oil phase weight ratio as 85:15, which confirmed that the composition of the present disclosure having weight ratio of aqueous phase and the oil phase of about 92:8 was much preferable towards effective mascara removal.
Quantitative consumer test
[0141] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleanser product CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their make-up removal efficiency.
Results
[0142] 97% of volunteers reported effective make up removal with composition C(1) and also particularly emphasized that C(1) resulted in a fresh and smooth skin post use.

Qualitative consumer test-1
[0143] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleanser products CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their makeup removal efficiency.
Results
[0144] All the 20 volunteers in the panel observed that C(1) provided effective make up removal without a non-sticky feel when compared to the commercial product CP(2).
[0145] Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure comprising a combination of optimized weight of alpha hydroxy acids and poly(hydroxy) acid, along with cocktail of other components in aqueous phase and the emollients in oil phase, offered a deep yet gentle cleansing experience while providing oil control / shine control benefits.
III. Non-greasy feel
[0146] The non-greasy feel provided by the compositions after removal of make¬up were assessed using a combination of qualitative consumer tests, and a quantitative consumer test.
Qualitative consumer test-1
[0147] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure was qualitatively evaluated for its ability to provide a non-greasy feel post makeup removal.
Results
[0148] All the volunteers observed that C(1) provided effective make up removal without leaving any greasy and sticky feel.
Qualitative consumer test-2

[0149] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleanser product CP(2) were qualitatively evaluated for their ability to provide a non-greasy feel post makeup removal.
Results
[0150] All volunteers reported a non-greasy feel and emphasized that there was no need to rinse after using the composition C(1), according to the present disclosure. On the other hand, all the users of the commercial product CP(2) reported that they had to wash their face to remove the sticky and greasy feel.
Quantitative consumer test
[0151] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleanser product CP(1) and CP (2) were quantitatively evaluated for their ability to provide a non-sticky feel after effective make up removal.
Results
[0152] 87% of volunteers reported a significantly better non-greasy skin feel for C(1) against both commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).
[0153] Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure comprising an optimal combination of light oils like hydrocarbons provided light non sticky skin feel as part of the biphasic composition with aqueous phase to oil phase ratio of 92:8 providing a non-greasy sensation when compared to the commercial products with a higher ratio of oils.
IV. Suitability for acne prone skin
Quantitative consumer test
[0154] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleanser product CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their suitability for use on acne prone skin for make-up removal.

Results
[0155] 75% of volunteers reported a significantly better suitability of composition C(1) for acne prone skin when compared to both commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).
[0156] Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure, comprising soft peeling skin actives such as AHA and PHA like glycolic acid, lactic acid and gluconolactone along with an oil control active, like zinc gluconate provided gentle exfoliation, oil control and hence the was found to be more suitable to acne prone skin when compared to the commercial products.
V. Skin Respect
[0157] Skin respect, or the mildness provided by the compositions were assessed using a combination of an instrumental test, and a quantitative consumer test.
Instrumental test for Hydration efficacy
[0158] An instrumental test was performed to assess the hydration efficacy of the composition C(1).
[0159] Instrumental evaluation was done on 24 healthy subjects with dry forearm using Corneometer CM825, pH meter CK, and Aquaflux AF200 to capture the hydration, pH and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) potential of the compositions at baseline and after 1hr, 4hrs and 6hrs after product application, in a standard controlled condition (Temperature :21±1 ℃; RH: 45±5%). Bare arm without any product application was considered as the negative control along with a positive reference.
[0160] Protocol: Briefly, 2 mg/cm2 of each of the composition to be assessed were applied in a controlled manner to 6 sites on the forearm. Application instruction included light massaging with a finger cot until fully absorbed, in accordance with randomization.

Results
[0161] As illustrated in Tables 4, 5 and 6, C(1) delivered increased hydration, with desired pH and reduced trans epidermal water loss across all time points thereby giving a positive performance on skin respect.
Table 4-Evaluation of Hydration efficiency

Model Product t0 t1 t4 t6 ∆t1 ∆t4 ∆t6
Avg C(1) 24.54 32.91 32.15 33.36 8.37 7.6 8.81
SD
3.2 6.74 5.54 5.61 6.44 5.04 4.4
Avg Untreated 24.59 25.7 25.67 26.09 1.11 1.08 1.5
SD
3.7 4.36 5.03 4.14 3.4 4.02 4.14
Table 5- Evaluation of pH

Model Product t0 t1 t4 t6 ∆t1 ∆t4 ∆t6
Avg C(1) 5.48 5.34 5.38 5.42 -0.14 -0.1 -0.06
SD
0.26 0.32 0.27 0.29 0.37 0.43 0.33
Avg Untreated 5.43 5.45 5.45 5.3 0.01 0.01 -0.13
SD
0.27 0.42 0.22 0.32 0.51 0.39 0.4
Table 6-Transepidermal Water Loss

Model Product t0 t1 t4 t6 ∆t1 ∆t4 ∆t6
Avg C(1) 12.15 6.41 8.75 9.24 -5.74 -3.4 -2.91
SD
5.42 5.32 4.47 5.51 3.26 2.73 2.77
Avg Untreated 12.25 8.5 9.9 10.07 -3.76 -2.35 -2.18
SD
5.31 6.37 4.06 5.22 4.05 2.53 2.05
Quantitative consumer test

[0162] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleanser product CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their ability to offer skin respect.
Results
[0163] 97% of volunteers reported a significantly better gentle cleansing effect of composition C(1) when compared to both commercial products CP(1) and CP(2) and hence the composition of the present disclosure was mild and provided better skin respect comparatively.
[0164] Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure, comprising optimum level of skin care ingredients like water, skin emollients, antioxidant, soft peeling actives like AHA and PHA, contributed towards the mildness and skin respect features of the composition.
VI. Skin and eye non-irritant
[0165] Skin and eye non-irritant feature of the compositions were assessed using a combination of an instrumental test, and qualitative consumer tests.
HCE in vitro test
[0166] The SkinEthic™ HCE (Human Corneal Epithelium) reconstructed cornea model has been adopted in OECD TG 492 for the prediction of eye irritation of chemicals/raw materials.
[0167] 30μl-30min protocol: 30μl of composition was topically applied on SkinEthic™ HCE model. Tissues were incubated for 30min in 37°C, 5% CO2 and 95% humidity, following 30min of post-soak. Viability was determined by the MTT conversion test to predict irritation.
Result

[0168] The composition C1 was found to be acceptable with no major skin or eye irritation as reported by the HCE test.
PIRI PIRI test
[0169] Sensation of skin discomfort, such as skin and eye irritation or itch and the level was assessed by the sequential monadic evaluation in blind, randomized design of the composition C(1) and the commercial product CP(9). Twenty-eight volunteers, who are reactive to skin discomfort caused by cosmetic products and trained for the standard application method were involved in the study. The volunteers were instructed to evaluate for any skin discomfort caused on their upper cheek from immediate to 5 minutes after application. For the mean score of each type of discomfort, significant difference was determined with p<0.05.
Results
[0170] With regards to itch as a skin discomfort, a mean score of 0.25 was reported for C(1) when compared to CP(9) with a mean score of 0.11, which signified that the composition C(1) resulted in significantly less itch than CP(9).
Qualitative consumer test-1
[0171] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and the commercial product CP(2) were qualitatively evaluated for its non-irritant feature towards the skin and the eyes.
Results
[0172] Majority of the volunteers (16-19 of the volunteers) observed that C(1) did not sting or irritate the eyes or did not leave bitter taste on the lips when compared to the commercial product CP(2).
Qualitative consumer test-2

[0173] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial products CP(2) and CP(3) were qualitatively evaluated for their skin and eye non-irritant feature.
Results
[0174] All the volunteers reported that the composition C(1) did not irritate eyes or leave an unpleasant “chemical” taste on lips when compared to the commercial products CP(2) and CP(3).
[0175] Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure with the appropriate ingredients with optimum dosage of skin peeling actives such as AHA and PHA, and an optimized pH of 4.5 was suitable for the skin without causing any skin or eye irritation.
VI. Immediate brightening
[0176] Immediate brightening effect provided by the compositions were assessed using a combination of an instrumental test, a qualitative consumer test, and a quantitative consumer test.
Instrumental test
[0177] Fourteen healthy volunteers with fair, medium and darker skin tones and oily skin were recruited for the instrumental test and the immediate skin brightening effects were assessed. Instrumental evaluation was done on before and after product application to capture evolution in skin color & shine using Minolta Spectrophotometer CD 700 & Newtone’s Lightcam.
[0178] Compositions tested: Compositions C(1) and commercial products CP(2), CP(4), CP(5), CP(6), CP(7) and CP(8).
[0179] Protocol for Chromasphere® measurement:

1) The volunteers were instructed to wash their face with water and leave for acclimatization in standard condition (Temperature :21±1 °C; RH: 45±5%) for 30mins.
2) T-0 baseline measurement was obtained on Chromasphere; with cheek and forehead as the zone of assessment.
3) Product was applied in 6 strokes using 2.5ml of the composition taken on a cotton pad, as per randomization using standard protocol.
4) T-imm measurement was obtained on Chromasphere.
5) Parameters assessed: For skin colour changes: L, C, hue(H) and dE94; For gloss shine: dC.
Results
[0180] The difference in skin lightening from T0 base line measurement and respective time point (T-imm) post application of the product is represented as a dL value. The dL values obtained for the compositions tested is summarized in Figure 1 A. Similarly, the change in saturation values, represented by dC is summarized in Figure 1B. The dC values confirmed that the composition C(1) according to present disclosure provided significantly increasing saturation and made the skin color more vivid and intense. The change in hue of the skin is represented by dH and is summarized in Figure 1C.The overall colour change from base line is represented by dE94 and is summarized in Figure 1D. Thus, the composition C(1) of the present disclosure exhibited significant brightening and skin saturation effects.
Qualitative consumer test-1
[0181] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and the commercial products CP(1) and CP(2) were qualitatively evaluated for its immediate skin brightening effects.
Results

[0182] All of the volunteers observed that C(1) was able to provide an instant glow with a soft skin post use when compared to the commercial products, which left a sticky inspite of providing brightening affects.
Quantitative consumer test
[0183] The composition C(1) according to the present disclosure and commercial facial cleanser products CP(1) and CP(2) were quantitatively evaluated for their ability to offer skin respect.
Results
[0184] 87% of volunteers reported a significantly better cleansing efficacy with skin brightening effects as provided by the composition C(1) when compared to both commercial products CP(1) and CP(2).
[0185] Thus, the composition C(1) according to the present disclosure, comprising active cocktail like AHA, PHA, brightness active like niacinamide at active level and low pH showed higher efficacy of skin rejuvenation and skin brightening .
[0186] Accordingly, it was observed that the use of specific ingredients as disclosed in various embodiments herein, facilitated in achieving the cleansing composition with desired sensorial properties.
Advantages of the present disclosure
[0187] The present disclosure provides a composition for removal of makeup, for cleansing and/or for caring a keratinous layer, comprising an aqueous phase comprising: (a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid; (b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid; (c) at least one brightening active; (d) at least one anti-dullness active; and (e) water; an oil phase comprising: (f) at least one emollient; and (g) optionally at least one antioxidant. The composition is a silicone and alcohol-free biphasic cleansing composition with skin care benefits as listed below.

(a) The biphasic composition on shaking transforms into a single-phase composition and is stable across all temperatures without any observed haziness or crystallization.
(b) The composition is easy to use and does not require any rinsing.
(c) The specific combination of emollients ensures a non-greasy feel on the skin post the effective removal of make-up and dirt.
(d) The optimized combination of alpha and poly(hydroxy) acids contributing to a pH of about 4.5 ensures a soft-peeling action on the skin, without causing any irritation to the eyes and skin. Therefore, the composition is suitable for acne-prone and sensitive skin types.
(e) The optimized combination of skin brightening active along with the anti-dullness active provides instant as well as progressive brightening and leaves the skin soft, smooth, and non-sticky.
(f) The composition provides multiple skin benefits, such as non-oily feel, clear and glowing skin, acne spot reductions, reduction in density of pigmentary spots etc. and ensures overall skin tone enhancement.

I/We Claim:
1. A biphasic composition comprising:
(i) an aqueous phase comprising:
(a) at least one alpha hydroxy acid;
(b) at least one poly(hydroxy) acid;
(c) at least one brightening active;
(d) at least one anti-dullness active; and
(e) water;
(ii) an oil phase comprising:
(f) at least one emollient; and
(g) optionally at least one antioxidant,
wherein the aqueous phase to oil phase is in a weight ratio range of 90:10 to 93:7.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase to oil phase
is preferably in a weight ratio range of 91:9 to 93:7.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises at least one pH adjuster, at least one oil control active, at least one buffer, at least one surfactant, at least one active compound, at least one preservative, or mixtures thereof.
4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt%, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5 wt%; and is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, or mixtures thereof.

5. The composition as claimed in claim 4, wherein the alpha hydroxy acid is a combination of lactic acid and glycolic acid, with lactic acid in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt%, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 wt%; and glycolic acid in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 2 wt%, more preferably from 0.7 to 1.5 wt%.
6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the poly(hydroxy) acid is in an
amount ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 2 wt%, more preferably from 1.2 to 2.5 wt%; and the poly(hydroxy) acid is selected from gluconolactone, galactonic acid, lactobionic acid, or mixtures thereof.
7. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the brightening active is in an
amount ranging from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 3 wt%, more preferably from 1.5 to 2.5 wt%, and is selected from niacinamide, arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C, azelaic acid, retinoids, hydroquinone, linoleic acid, or mixtures thereof; the anti-dullness active is in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 1 wt%, more preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt%, and is selected from caffeine, polyglutamic acid, or mixtures thereof; and water is in an amount ranging from 70 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 75 to 85 wt%, more preferably from 80 to 85 wt%.
8. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one emollient is in
an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 13 wt%, more preferably from 0.1 to 8 wt%; and is selected from isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate, isododecane, liquid paraffin, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, cetyl ethyl

hexanoate, isostearyl palmitate, polyethylene glycol (PEG)-20 glyceryl triisostearate, cetaryl isoneonate, undecane, tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
9. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the antioxidant is in an amount
ranging from 0.2 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4 to 0.9 wt%, more preferably from 0.5 to 0.8 wt%; and is selected from vitamin E, vitamin A, polyphenols, or mixtures thereof.
10. The composition as claimed in claim 3, wherein the pH adjuster is in an amount
ranging from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 2 wt%, more preferably from 0.02 to 1.5 wt%; the oil control active is in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1 wt%, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 wt%; the buffer is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 2.3 wt%, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.1 wt%; the surfactant is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.008 to 0.8 wt%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.4 wt%; the active compound is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.08 to 1.5 wt%, more preferably from 0.1 to 1 wt%; and the preservative is in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 0.3 wt%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1 wt%.
11. The composition as claimed in claim 3, wherein the pH adjuster is selected from
potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof; the oil control active is selected from zinc gluconate, charcoal, salicylic acid, or mixtures thereof; the buffer is citric acid, sodium citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, tri-C12-13 alkyl citrate, tri-C14-15 alkyl citrate, tricaprylyl citrate, triethylhexyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, triisostearyl

citrate, isodecyl citrate, stearyl citrate, dilauryl citrate, ethyl citrate, or mixtures
thereof; the surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyethylene
glycol (PEG) -6 caprylic capric glycerides, poloxamer 184, PEG-7 glyceryl
cocoate, or mixtures thereof; the active compound is sodium chloride, hydroxy
acetophenone, or mixtures thereof; and the preservative is selected from
myrtrimonium bromide, phenoxy ethanol, caprylyl glycol, parabens, pentylene
glycol, methylisothiazolinone, benzisothiazolinone
methylchloroisothiazolinone, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, or mixtures thereof.
12. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition has pH in a
range of 4.2 to 4.8, preferably in a range of 4.3 to 4.7, more preferably in a
range of 4.4 to 4.6.
13. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition is capable of
transforming into a single-phase composition.
14. The composition as claimed in claim 13, wherein the single-phase composition
is capable of transforming into the biphasic composition.
15. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition is free of
silicones.
16. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition is free of
alcohols.
17. A method for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for, the skin, the
lips and/or the eyes, the body, or the hair, characterized in that the cleansing composition as claimed in claims 1 to 16 is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, or the hair.
18. Use of the composition as claimed in claim 1 for removal of makeup, for
cleansing and/or for caring a keratinous layer.

Documents

Application Documents

# Name Date
1 202221073666-STATEMENT OF UNDERTAKING (FORM 3) [19-12-2022(online)].pdf 2022-12-19
2 202221073666-POWER OF AUTHORITY [19-12-2022(online)].pdf 2022-12-19
3 202221073666-FORM 1 [19-12-2022(online)].pdf 2022-12-19
4 202221073666-DRAWINGS [19-12-2022(online)].pdf 2022-12-19
5 202221073666-DECLARATION OF INVENTORSHIP (FORM 5) [19-12-2022(online)].pdf 2022-12-19
6 202221073666-COMPLETE SPECIFICATION [19-12-2022(online)].pdf 2022-12-19
7 Abstract1.jpg 2023-02-06
8 202221073666-FORM 3 [26-05-2023(online)].pdf 2023-05-26
9 202221073666-Proof of Right [19-06-2023(online)].pdf 2023-06-19
10 202221073666-FORM 18 [12-07-2024(online)].pdf 2024-07-12