Abstract: ABSTRACT LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE OILS, AND HYDROCARBON-BASED OILS, AND METHODS THEREOF The present disclosure relates to a liquid cosmetic composition for making up of skin and lips, comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil, a volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil, a mixture of at least one volatile silicone oil and at 5 least one non-volatile silicone oil, a trimethylsiloxysilicate; and a lipophilic gelling agent.
FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICONE
OILS, AND HYDROCARBON-BASED OILS, AND METHODS THEREOF
2. Applicant(s)
NAME NATIONALITY ADDRESS
L'OREAL French 14 rue Royale 75008 PARIS, France
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it
is to be performed.
FIELDOFINVENTION
[0001] The present disclosure relates, in general, to the field of personal
care and cosmetic products and, particularly, to liquid cosmetic compositions for making up of skin or lips. The present disclosure further relates to a method for making up of skin or lips.
BACKGROUNDOFINVENTION
[0002] Among the various cosmetic products, lipsticks are one of the most
powerful makeup products that are perceived to offer enhanced confidence and aesthetics to the user. The compositions can be in various forms, from liquid to solid in the form of sticks or poured into pots. Traditional liquid lipstick products often require several reapplications during the day to compensate for the relatively low wear of the deposit. Besides not being long-lasting, they also tend to transfer colour, with a risk to leave marks on the glasses or cups, or even on the clothes. Hence, some users prefer lipsticks that are long-lasting, and which address the undesirable need for frequent touch-ups. These type of lipsticks, more particularly liquid compositions, usually comprises film-forming polymers as well as a significant amount of volatile oils, that improve the resistance of the film on the lips. But such long-lasting compositions have the drawback of being tacky and/or for leaving a sensation of dryness, or tightness on the lips. Consequently, such liquid compositions can be considered less comfortable than others. Certain liquid lipsticks in the market employ non-volatile oils, and emollients to compensate for the feeling of tightness and dryness and additionally hydrate the lips. However, in many cases, the deposits of the cosmetic composition leave a heavier feel, if not, in some cases, a cakey feel on the lips and the resistance of the film may often be impaired. Thus, lipstick users are on a constant search for products that provide better makeup effects on the lips, combined with a long-lasting and comfortable deposit.
[0003] Therefore, there exists a need for an effective and stable liquid
cosmetic composition with improved properties particularly, a composition that is long-lasting, and comfortable to wear.
SUMMARYOFTHEINVENTION
[0004] In one aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a liquid
cosmetic composition for making up of skin or lips, the composition comprising: (a) a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) a volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil in an amount ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) a mixture of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, wherein the volatile silicone oil is in an amount ranging from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and the non-volatile silicone oil is in an amount ranging from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) a trimethylsiloxysilicate; and (e) a lipophilic gelling agent.
[0005] In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a kit
comprising (a) the composition as described herein; (b) a container; and (c) an applicator.
[0006] In yet another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a
method for making up of skin or lips, comprising applying to said skin or lips, the composition as described herein.
[0007] These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present
subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and appended claims. This summary is provided to introduce a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter.
DESCRIPTIONOFTHEINVENTION
[0008] Those skilled in the art will be aware that the present disclosure is
subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is
to be understood that the present disclosure includes all such variations and
modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions,
and compounds referred to or indicated in this specification, individually or
collectively, and any and all combinations of any or more of such steps or features.
Definitions
[0009] For convenience, before further description of the present
disclosure, certain terms employed in the specification, and examples are delineated
here. These definitions should be read in light of the remainder of the disclosure
and understood by a person of skill in the art. The terms used herein have the
meanings recognized and known to those of skill in the art, however, for
convenience and completeness, particular terms and their meanings are set forth
below.
[0010] The articles “a”, “an”, “at least one” and “the” are used to refer to
one or to more than one of the grammatical objects of the article, and thus include
individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
[0011] The terms “comprise” and “comprising” are used in the inclusive,
open sense, meaning that additional elements (or steps) may be included. It is not
intended to be construed as “consists of only” or to exclude any other elements or
steps.
[0012] The term “including” is used to mean “including but not limited to”.
“including” and “including but not limited to” are used interchangeably.
[0013] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature
of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International
Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to identify
cosmetic or personal care ingredients.
[0014] The term “long-lasting”, as used herein, refers to its generally
accepted meaning in the art. Generally, it refers to the property of a composition
indicating that the composition is retained on a surface, such as lips or skin, after application, and that the color of the composition remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, for an extended period of time. Long-lasting properties may be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long-lasting property may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to skin, or lips and evaluating the color and retention of the composition after a specified or extended period of time. The color of a composition may be evaluated immediately following application to skin or lips and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a pre¬determined or extended period of time. For lip compositions, “long-lasting” typically means that the composition remains on the lips for at least about 4 hours up to about 24 hours.
[0015] The term “anhydrous”, as used herein, refers to a composition
comprising less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water.
[0016] The term “oil”, as used herein, refers to any fatty substance that is
in liquid form at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
[0017] The term "non-volatile oil", as used herein, refers to oil that is
capable of remaining on lips or skin, for a plurality of hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and/or having a non-zero vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). In an example, the vapor pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD 104 standard). The non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils, referred to as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils or non-volatile silicone oils, respectively, in various embodiments herein.
[0018] The term "volatile oil", as used herein, refers to oil that is capable of
evaporating at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
More particularly, the volatile oil is a compound that vaporizes on contact with skin or lips in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and/or having a non-zero vapor pressure of at least 2.66 Pa, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa (0.02 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.02 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.02 to 10 mmHg). The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils, referred to as volatile hydrocarbon-based oils or volatile silicone oils, respectively, in various embodiments herein.
[0019] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil", as used herein, refers to oil
mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. The hydrocarbon-based oils may be polar or apolar oils. The hydrocarbon-based oils may be volatile or non-volatile oils. The hydrocarbon-based oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.
[0020] The term "silicone oil", as used herein, refers to oil comprising at
least one Si atom, for example having Si-O groups.
[0021] The term "colorant", as used herein, refers to its generally accepted
meaning in the art. It refers to a compound that is capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.
[0022] All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of
the compositions of the present disclosure unless otherwise indicated. It has to be noted that the amounts of ingredient are expressed as the amount of active material and not of raw material. Moreover, ratios, concentrations, amounts, and other numerical data may be presented herein in a range format. It is to be understood that such range format is used merely for convenience and brevity and should be interpreted flexibly to include not only the numerical values explicitly recited as the limits of the range, but also to include all the individual numerical values or sub¬ranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and sub-range is
explicitly recited. For example, a percentage range of about 15 % to 20 % should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly recited limits of about 15 % to about 20 %, but also to include sub-ranges, such as 16 % to 18 %, 17 % to 19%, and so forth, as well as individual amounts, including fractional amounts, within the specified ranges, such as 15.8 %, and 17.25 %, for example.
[0023] Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used
herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this disclosure belongs. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, the preferred methods and materials are now described. All publications mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference.
[0024] The present disclosure is not to be limited in scope by the specific
embodiments described herein, which are intended for the purposes of exemplification only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and methods are clearly within the scope of the disclosure, as described herein.
[0025] Embodiments herein provide a liquid cosmetic composition for
making up of keratin material, such as skin, cheeks or lips. The disclosed embodiments include a composition for making up of skin or lips, a kit, and a method for making up of skin or lips. In various embodiments herein, the composition is a liquid lipstick composition having improved cosmetic properties. The composition, according to embodiments herein, has improved properties to overcome the drawbacks, such as improving the comfort of the lips, avoiding the caking effect on the lips, and decreasing the drying or tightening effect of the lips, that are generally seen in other commercially available long-lasting liquid lipsticks. The composition, according to embodiments herein, has improved stability with the desired texture, and enhanced ease of application. Further, the composition, according to embodiments herein, provides a one-stop solution for making up of skin or lips, and is having long-lasting properties, and longer retention of intense color on the skin or lips. It has user perceived comfort in terms of a non-dry and non-cakey feel on the lips. The embodiments herein, further, include a method for the preparation of the cosmetic composition.
Composition
[0026] The present invention relates to a liquid cosmetic composition for
making up of skin or lips, the composition comprising: (a) a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) a volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil in an amount ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) a mixture of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, wherein the volatile silicone oil is in an amount ranging from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and the non-volatile silicone oil is in an amount ranging from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) a trimethylsiloxysilicate and; (e) a lipophilic gelling agent.
[0027] The composition, according to embodiments herein, is a liquid. In
various embodiments herein, the composition according to the present invention, has a viscosity preferably in the range of 0.4 to 2 Pa.s, more preferably 0.5 to 1.5 Pa.s, and even more preferably 0.6 to 1.3 Pa.s.
Measurement of viscosity
[0028] The viscosity of the compositions was measured using a rheometer
of the Rheomat RM 200 type from Lamy Rheology with spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm, at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).
[0029] The composition, according to a preferred embodiment, is
anhydrous. In various embodiments, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferable embodiment, the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. In a more preferable embodiment, the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil
[0030] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes a non-
volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil. The hydrocarbon-based apolar oil, according
to embodiments herein, refers to an apolar oil containing only hydrogen and carbon
atoms. The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil may in particular be chosen
from apolar hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, or plant origin,
in particular liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, liquid petroleum jelly,
polybutenes, hydrogenated polybutenes, polyisobutene, hydrogenated
polyisobutenes, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, squalane, preferably of vegetable origin, or mixtures thereof.
[0031] In an embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil is
selected from polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, squalane of vegetable origin, or mixtures thereof. In a preferable embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil is polybutene, for example such as those sold under the reference Indopol® H 100, by Ineos.
[0032] The amount of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil in the
composition, is present in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferable embodiment, the composition comprises a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil, in an amount ranging from 17% to 22%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil
[0033] The composition also includes a volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar
oil. The volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil, according to embodiments herein, may in particular be chosen from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially of branched C8-C16 alkanes, for instance, C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, or mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the
volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil is isododecane, for example such as those sold under the trade names Isopar™ or Permethyl® 99A, Creasil ID, etc.
[0034] The amount of volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil in the
composition is present in an amount ranging from 30 % to 50 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0035] In a preferable embodiment, the composition comprises a volatile
hydrocarbon-based apolar oil, in an amount ranging from 35 % to 45 %, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
A mixture of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil
[0036] The volatile silicone oil, according to embodiments herein, include
linear or cyclic silicones, in particular, containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, the silicon may optionally independently attached to one or more alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl. It may in particular be chosen from caprylyl methicone, methyltrimethicone, disiloxane, trisiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclo hexasiloxane, decamethyl cyclo pentasiloxane, octamethyl cyclo tetrasiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes, or mixtures thereof. In a preferable embodiment, the volatile silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane, for example such as those sold under the reference XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt by Dow®.
[0037] In an embodiment, the volatile silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane
having a viscosity at 25°C of less than 5 centistokes (cSt) (5 x 10-6 m2/s), measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard. In a preferred embodiment, the volatile silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity at 25°C of 2 cSt (2 x 10-6 m2/s).
[0038] The amount of volatile silicone oil in the composition, according to
embodiments herein, may vary. The volatile silicone oil, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount from 2 % to 10 % by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferable embodiment, the composition comprises a volatile silicone oil, in an amount from 2 % to 6 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0039] The non-volatile silicone oil is preferably chosen among silicone oils
free of phenyl group, more particularly among polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name-Dimethicone); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one aliphatic group, in particular C2 -C24 alkyl, or mixtures thereof. The term "polydimethylsiloxane”, as used herein, refers to a polymer with the repeating monomer [Si(CH3)2O] units, preferably linear. Preferably, the silicone oil does not comprise any (poly)oxyalkylene groups, the oxyalkylene unit of which is C2-C3, or any (poly)glycerol groups. Non-volatile silicone oils can be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes, cetyl dimethicone, or mixtures thereof.
[0040] In an embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is chosen from oils
having a viscosity at 25°C in a range of 5 (cSt) (5 x 10-6 m2/s) to 100 (cSt) (100 x 10-6 m2/s), measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard, more particularly in a range of 5 (cSt) (5 x 10-6 m2/s) to 50 (cSt) (50 x 10-6 m2/s), measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard, preferably 5 (cSt) (5 x 10-6 m2/s) to 20 (cSt) (20 x 10-6 m2/s), measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard.
[0041] Preferably, the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxane, without any
further substitution of alkyl group.
[0042] In a preferable embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is
polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity at 25°C of 10 cSt (10 x 10-6 m2/s). In an embodiment, the non-volatile silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxanes, for example such as those sold under the reference XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cSt, by Dow®; Belsil DM 10 by Wacker.
[0043] The amount of non-volatile silicone oil in the composition is ranging
from 2 % to 5 %, preferably from 2 % to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
[0044] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes a
silicone resin of MQ type, particularly trimethylsiloxysilicate.
[0045] More generally, the term "resin" is intended to mean a compound of
which the structure is three-dimensional. "Silicone resins" are also referred to as "siloxane resins". Thus, for the purposes of the present disclosure, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
[0046] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name
"MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.
[0047] The letter "M" represents the monofunctional unit of formula
R1R2R3SiO1/2, the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
[0048] The letter "D" means a difunctional unit R1R2SiO2/2 in which the
silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
[0049] The letter "T" represents a trifunctional unit of formula R1SiO3/2.
[0050] Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of
Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and US 2 676 182, US 3 627 851, US 3 772 247, US 5 248 739 or else US 5 082 706, US 5 319 040, US 5 302 685 and US 4 935 484.
[0051] In the units M, D, and T defined previously, R, namely R1 and R2,
represents a hydrocarbon-based radical (especially alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenyl alkyl group or else a hydroxyl group.
[0052] Finally, the letter "Q" means a tetrafunctional unit SiO4/2 in which
the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
[0053] Various silicone resins with different properties may be obtained
from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying as a function of
the type of monomers (or units), the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains.
[0054] Examples of silicone resins of MQ type, include alkyl siloxy
silicates of formula [(R1)3SiO1/2]x(SiO4/2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined previously and is preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, more preferably a methyl group.
[0055] The silicone resin may be used in powder form, or in a form
dissolved in a solvent. Examples of solid silicone resins of MQ type of trimethylsiloxysilicate type, include such as those sold under the reference BELSIL® TMS 803, by the company Wacker, SR 1000 by the company Momentive Performance Materials, and Silsoft™ 74 FLUID by the company Momentive Performance Materials. Examples of silicone resins conveyed in a solvent, can be cited Koboguard® MQ65TMF (mixture of trimethylsiloxysilicate and methyl trimethicone) sold by Kobo; KF-7312J (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), KF-7312K, KF-7312L (mixtures in dimethicone), KF-7312T (mixture in trimethicone), X-21-5249 (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), X-21-5249L (mixture in dimethicone), X-21-5250, X-21-5250L (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone, respectively), X-21-5595, X-21-5616 (mixtures in isododecane), KF-9021, KF-9021L (mixtures in cyclopentasiloxane and in dimethicone, respectively), sold by Shin-Etsu; Silsoft 74, Silshine 151 (mixtures in isododecane) from Momentive Performance Materials; Xiameter RSN-0749 Resin, Dow Corning 749 Fluid (mixtures in cyclo pentasiloxane), Dow Corning 593 Fluid (mixture in dimethicone) from Dow Corning.
[0056] The amount of trimethylsiloxysilicate in the composition, according
to embodiments herein, may vary. The trimethylsiloxysilicate, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 8 % by weight, preferably from 6 % to 7 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Lipophilic gelling agent
[0057] The composition, according to embodiments herein, includes a
lipophilic gelling agent.
[0058] The lipophilic gelling agent may in particular be chosen from silica,
clays, or mixtures thereof. The lipophilic gelling agent may in particular be chosen from silica, such as hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica and hydrophobic silica aerogel; from clays, such as hydrophobic hectorites and hydrophobic bentonites; or mixtures thereof.
[0059] In an embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent comprises at least one
of: silica selected from pyrogenic silica and silica aerogel, or mixtures thereof; clays selected from hydrophobic hectorites and hydrophobic bentonites, or mixtures thereof. In an embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent comprises at least one of: silica selected from pyrogenic silica including hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica and silica aerogel including hydrophobic silica aerogel, or mixtures thereof; and clays selected from hydrophobic hectorites and hydrophobic bentonites, or mixtures thereof. In another embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent comprises at least one selected from hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica, hydrophobic silica aerogel, hydrophobic hectorites, hydrophobic bentonites, or mixtures thereof, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is preferably in a range of 0.5 % to 16 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Pyrogenic silica
[0060] The silica, according to embodiments herein, may be selected from
pyrogenic silica and/or silica aerogel. Suitable pyrogenic silica includes silica having a treated hydrophobic surface. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. It is possible in particular to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups and a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
[0061] The hydrophobic groups can be:
- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica
in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called “Silica
silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000).
- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in
particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or
dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called “Silica dimethyl silylate”
according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000).
[0062] Accordingly, in an embodiment, the composition comprises
hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica.
Silica aerogels
[0063] The silica aerogels, according to embodiments herein, are porous
materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.
[0064] In an embodiment, the composition comprises hydrophobic silica
aerogel. The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2/g, more preferably from 600 to 800 m2/g and a size expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μ m, particularly from 1 to 1000 μ m, preferably from 1 to 100 μ m.
[0065] In an embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a
size expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μ m, preferably from 5 to 25 µm. In a preferable embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and more preferably from 5 to 15 µm.
[0066] The specific surface per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen
absorption method called the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method described in “The journal of the American Chemical Society”, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.
[0067] The sizes of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static
light scattering using a commercial particle sizer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, being exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles, ” Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0068] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica
aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g and a size expressed as mean diameter in volume (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μ m and or more preferably from 5 to 15 μ m.
[0069] The term “hydrophobic silica”, as used herein, refers to any silica
whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyl disiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si—Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
[0070] Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles
surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US Pat. No. 7,470,725. Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface with trimethylsilyl groups can be used.
[0071] The hydrophobic silica aerogels, according to embodiments herein,
include for example the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size
of about 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.
[0072] The aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica
silylate), by the company Dow Corning, is preferably used in various embodiments herein, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.
[0073] The lipophilic gelling agent, according to embodiments herein, is
selected from hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica, hydrophobic silica aerogel, or mixtures thereof, preferably in a range of 0.5 % to 8 % by weight, more preferably in a range of 0.5 % to 2 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In an embodiment, the composition comprises the lipophilic gelling agent, preferably in an amount from 1 % to 1.8 %, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Clays
[0074] The clay, according to embodiments herein, include natural and/or
synthetic clays.
[0075] Clays are silicates containing a cation that can be chosen from
calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cations, or mixtures thereof. Examples of clays include clays of smectite family, such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites; vermiculite family, such as stevensite, chlorites, etc. Such clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0076] Embodiments herein may also include organophilic clays.
Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from among quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] In some embodiments, the hectorites may be modified by a
quaternary compound, more precisely by a halide, such as a chloride, of ammonium fatty acid C10 to C22, such as hectorite modified by chloride di-stearyl di methyl
ammonium (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; stearalkonium Hectorites such as Bentone 27V, disteardimonium hectorites such as Bentone Gel ISD V, marketed by the company Elementis. Examples of bentonites includes quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 34, marketed by the company Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by the company United catalyst by the company Southern Clay, stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay.
[0078] In a preferable embodiment, the clays are chosen in particular from
hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium halide, in particular chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, or alternatively bentone gels, in particular, disteardimonium hectorite in isododecane. In an embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is disteardimonium hectorite. In another embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is disteardimonium hectorite in isododecane.
[0079] The lipophilic gelling agent, according to embodiments herein, is
selected from hydrophobic hectorite and hydrophobic bentonite, present in the composition preferably in a range of 1 % to 8 % by weight, more preferably 6 % to 8 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional non-volatile oils
[0080] The composition, according to embodiments herein, may include at
least one additional non-volatile oil, different from previously described non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils and the non-volatile silicone oils. The additional non-volatile oil(s) can be selected from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils, non-volatile phenylated silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
Non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils
[0081] The additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, according
to embodiments herein, may, in particular, be chosen from vegetable oils, oils with ester(s) function(s) comprising at least 12 carbon atoms which are different from the said vegetable oils, C10-C26 alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
[0082] In an embodiment, the additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-
based oil is selected from vegetable oils, C10-C26 alcohols, oils with ester(s) function(s) different from the vegetable oils, or mixtures thereof. In a preferable embodiment, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from oils with ester(s) function(s) comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and different from the vegetable oils.
Vegetable oils
[0083] Embodiments herein include oils of plant origin. In an embodiment,
the oils of plant origin is vegetable oil. Example of vegetable oils include oils, such as castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passion flower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, oil rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bankoulier oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, black oil of sandalwood, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, or mixtures thereof.
Non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils with ester(s) function(s)
[0084] Embodiments herein include non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils
distinct from the vegetable oils, chosen more particularly from hydrocarbon compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, the number of atoms of total carbon preferably being at least 12. In addition, the ester
oil may optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions. More particularly, the ester oils are chosen from mono- or di-esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, comprising more particularly from 12 to 50 carbon atoms, and optionally one or two ether groups. Among the compounds of this type, mention may be made of the monoesters or diesters obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and mono alcohol or polyol, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester may optionally comprise one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups.
[0085] Examples of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil include decyl oleate,
octyl dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, hexyl-decyl laurate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, octyl-decyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl stearate, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut alcohol (C12-C18 alcohols), octydodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyllactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate and diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is ethyl hexyl palmitate.
[0086] Examples also include monocarboxylic acid esters, saturated or
unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, and of diols, in particular glycols, in particular C2-C5, glycerol or polyglycerol. Further examples include propylene glycol
monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentylglycol dicaprate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethyleneglycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate and dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, or mixtures thereof.
C10-C26 alcohols
[0087] Embodiments herein include C10-C26 alcohols. The C10-C26
alcohols, according to embodiments herein, are more particularly fatty alcohols. They comprise a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.
[0088] In a preferred embodiment, the C10-C26 alcohols are chosen from
lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, butyloctanol, undecyl pentadecanol, hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, or mixtures thereof.
Non-volatile phenylated silicone oils
[0089] Embodiments herein include compositions comprising at least an
additional non-volatile phenylated silicone oil. As examples of non-volatile phenylated silicone oils can be cited but not limited to, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetra methyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethyl siloxy phenyl dimethicone, diphenyl siloxy phenyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, or mixtures thereof.
[0090] These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI
Cosmetic Fluid (trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) and Dowsil 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (phenyl trimethicone) by Dow Corning; diphenyl dimethicones such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; the products
Belsil PDM 1000 sold by Wacker Chemie (trimethylsiloxy phenyl dimethicone), alone or as mixtures.
[0091] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition
comprises at least an additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil. According to another preferred embodiment, the composition doesn’t comprise any additional non-volatile phenylated silicone oil.
[0092] The amount of additional non-volatile oil selected from non-volatile
polar hydrocarbon-based oil, non-volatile phenylated silicone oil, or mixtures thereof, in the composition, according to embodiments herein, may vary. The additional non-volatile oil, preferably of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, according to embodiments herein, may be present in the composition. Advantageously, the amount is varying from 2 % to 8 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In an embodiment, the composition comprises an additional non-volatile oil, preferably a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably in an amount from 3 % to 6 %, more preferably in an amount from 4 % to 6 %, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty Solid Compounds
[0093] The composition according to the invention may optionally
comprise at least one fatty solid compound (at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure), chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, or mixtures thereof, more particularly from hydrocarbon-based waxes, pasty hydrocarbon-based compounds, or mixtures thereof.
Waxes
[0094] By “wax”, within the meaning of the invention, refers to a lipophilic
compound which is solid at room temperature, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C, and less than or equal to 120°C, more particularly less than or equal to 90°C.
[0095] Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature (or
melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
[0096] The melting point of a solid fatty compounds can be measured using
a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC 2000” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”.
[0097] The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to an initial temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then cooled by 120°C at -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second rise in temperature, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed.
[0098] More particularly, the wax can be chosen from polar waxes, in
particular alcohol waxes; esters such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, lanolin, sunflower, candelilla, carnauba, rice bran, montan, hydrogenated jojoba oil; waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil; waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which can contain a heteroatom in particular oxygen, and whose melting temperature varies from 40 at 120°C; partial or total, preferably total, esters of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate or tribehenate, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0099] Mention may also be made of apolar hydrocarbon waxes (in other
words made up solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms), resulting from the
transformation of petroleum, such as for example polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes (Synthetic Wax, Fischer-Tropsch), alone or in mixtures.
Pasty compounds
[0100] By “pasty compound”, within the meaning of the present invention,
refers to a lipophilic compound comprising, at an ambient temperature, a liquid fraction, and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a starting melting point below 25°C.
[0101] The melting point of the pasty compound is determined according to
the same principle as that detailed above for the waxes. In case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows:
[0102] A sample of 5 mg of pasty compound placed in a crucible is
subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled by 100° C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. The melting point of the pasty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the apex of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.
[0103] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty
compound at ambient temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at ambient temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy necessary to change the pasty compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
[0104] Preferably, the pasty compounds also called as pasty hydrocarbon-
based compounds are chosen from petroleum jelly; vegetable butters, such as in particular mango, shea, cupuacu, murumuru, cocoa, babassu or jojoba butters; totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated copra oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as products with the INCI name hydrogenated vegetable oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil; esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; products with the INCI name hydrogenated coco-glycerides; dilinoleic alcohol and/or dilinoleic acid dimer esters, for example the products with the following INCI names: bis-behenyl/ isostearyl/ phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl/ isostearyl/ cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate), hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, or mixtures thereof.
[0105] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the
amount of solid fatty compound, if present in the composition, is of at most 2 % by weight, more particularly of at most 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any solid fatty compound.
Other additives
[0106] The composition, according to embodiments herein, may also
include one or more additives, particularly cosmetic additives, which may be notably chosen from fillers, cosmetic active agents, brighteners, preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, neutralizers, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, free-radical scavengers, sequestrants, solvents, humectants, and mixtures thereof. It is understood that a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the disclosure are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition. All such embodiments including the optional additives are understood to be included within the scope of the present disclosure.
Antioxidants
[0107] The composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or
more antioxidants. Antioxidants as part of the composition ensures protection of the skin against cellular damage caused by free oxygen radicals. Examples of antioxidants include but not limited to tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), ascorbic acids, salts, or esters thereof, such as for instance ascorbyl palmitate; retinyl palmitate (vitamin A); erythorbic acid; pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate; etc. or mixtures thereof.
Humectant
[0108] The composition, according to embodiments herein, include one or
more humectants. Humectants, in general provides moisturizing and hydrating properties to the skin. Examples of humectant include polyols such as glycerin, diglycerin; sugars, more particularly monosaccharides, sorbitol, fructose, inositol; salts of lactic acids, such as sodium lactate, etc; or mixtures thereof.
Solvent
[0109] The composition, according to embodiments herein, optionally
include one or more solvents, which are used to dissolve and suspend the other components of the composition. Examples of solvent include but not limited to monoalcohols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol. The composition according to the invention can optionally comprise at least one polyol which is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The term “polyol” denotes any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (or free hydroxyl groups). More particularly, the liquid polyol(s) are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear, or branched, C2-C8, more particularly C3-C6, compounds comprising at least two hydroxyl functional groups, preferably comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Advantageously, the polyol can, for example, be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene
glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, or their mixtures.
Colorants
[0110] The composition, according to embodiments herein, may include
one or more colorant. The colorant may in particular be selected from coated or uncoated pigments and dyes such as liposoluble dyes, or mixtures thereof.
[0111] The term "liposoluble dye", as used herein, refers to any natural or
synthetic, generally organic compound, dyes which are soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting color.
[0112] In some embodiments, the composition include one or more
liposoluble dyes. Examples of liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in various embodiments herein include synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, such as DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin, or mixtures thereof.
[0113] In some embodiments, the composition include one or more
pigments.
[0114] The term "pigments" , as used herein, is understood to include white
or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the composition containing them and/or the deposit produced with the composition.
[0115] The pigments, in various embodiments, may be white or colored.
They may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials), or mixtures thereof.
[0116] The pigments may be chosen from monochromic pigments, lakes,
nacres, and pigments with an optical effect, for instance, reflective pigments and
goniochromatic pigments. The pigments may for example be in powder or paste form. They may be coated or uncoated. In a particular embodiment, the pigments are chosen from mineral pigments. The mineral pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments, chromium oxides, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, or mixtures thereof. In a preferable embodiment, the pigment is titanium dioxide.
[0117] In another embodiment, the pigments are chosen from organic
pigment, which is synthetic, or of natural origin. The organic pigments may for example be cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes; organic lakes or insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium, or titanium salts of acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluoran dyes, or mixtures thereof. These dyes generally include at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group; and melanin-based pigments.
[0118] Example of organic pigments include D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown
No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No. 6.
[0119] In some embodiments, the pigments include nacre. The term
"nacre", as used herein, refers to colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect via optical interference.
[0120] Examples of nacres that may be used in various embodiments herein
include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica
coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye notably of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
[0121] The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze,
orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.
[0122] Example of nacres, that may be introduced as interference, include
the gold-colored nacres notably sold by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres notably sold by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres notably sold by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres notably sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a coppery glint notably sold by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint notably sold by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow glint notably sold by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold glint notably sold by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres notably sold by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold glint notably sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres notably sold by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery glint notably sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and
the golden-green pink-orange nacres notably sold by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), or mixtures thereof.
[0123] The term "particles with a metallic glint", as used herein, refers to
any compound whose nature, size, structure, and surface finish allow it to reflect incident light, in particular in a non-iridescent manner.
[0124] The particles with a metallic glint that may be used in the invention
are in particular chosen from:
- particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative;
- particles comprising a monomaterial or multimaterial organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic glint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative; and
- mixtures of said particles.
[0125] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may
for example be made of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
[0126] The term "metal derivatives", as used herein, denotes compounds
derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
[0127] The pulverulent colorants as described above can be surface treated,
totally or partially, with a hydrophobic agent. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are notably described in document EP 1 086 683.
[0128] The hydrophobic-treatment agent according to embodiments herein,
may be chosen from silicones, such as methicones and dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes, silanes, fatty acids, such as stearic acid, metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, perfluoropolyethers, amino acids, N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof, lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate and isostearyl sebacate, or mixtures thereof.
[0129] The term "alkyl", as used herein, particularly mentioned in the
compounds cited above especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0130] The composition, according to the embodiments herein, comprises
at least one colorant, in particular chosen from pigments, and liposoluble dyes. In a preferred embodiment the colorant is chosen from titanium dioxide, yellow 6 lake, red 7, red 28, red 22, and mixtures thereof.
Preparation of the compositions according to the disclosure
[0131] The compositions according to the disclosure may be manufactured
using known processes, generally used in the cosmetics field. Typically, the process includes blending the ingredients at a temperature enabling to obtain a homogeneous mixture. More particularly, the temperature is maintained between 20°C and 90°C, preferably between 20 and 40°C. According to a particular embodiment, as the composition preferably doesn’t comprise fatty solid compounds, notably waxes, the temperature of the process is maintained between 20 and 30°C, more particularly around room temperature (25°C). The colorants can be added any time during the process. According to one embodiment, the pigments are preferably mixed with a part of the oils, at ambient temperature, before adding other ingredients. Optionally, one or more fragrances, antioxidants, humectants, or mixtures thereof may suitably be added.
Use and method
[0132] A composition, according to embodiments herein, may more
particularly be a composition for making up of keratin material such as skin, cheeks, or lips. Preferably, the composition, according to embodiments herein, is a cosmetic composition for making up of skin or lips, more preferably the lips. Accordingly, the composition, in various embodiments herein, may be a lipstick, a lip balm, lip ink, or a lip gloss.
[0133] The composition, according to embodiments herein, can be applied
using any means, such as finger or preferably using an applicator, in particular a dip applicator, for example using a flocked dip applicator, and/or even using a sponge.
[0134] Accordingly, embodiments herein include a method for making up
skin or lips, in particular lips, comprising at least one step of applying the composition as described herein, to skin or lips.
[0135] Preferably, the method is for making up the lips, comprising at least
one step of applying a composition as described herein to said lips.
[0136] Embodiments herein further include a kit for making up of the lips.
In an embodiment, the kit comprises the composition as described herein, and an applicator. In an embodiment, the kit comprises the composition as described herein; a container comprising the composition; and an applicator.
[0137] Although the present disclosure has been described in considerable
detail with reference to certain embodiments and implementations thereof, other embodiments are possible to cover the modifications and variations of the present disclosure.
Examples
[0138] The disclosure will now be illustrated with working examples,
which is intended to illustrate the working of disclosure and not intended to take restrictively to imply any limitations on the scope of the present disclosure. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood to one of ordinary skill in the art to which this disclosure belongs. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice of the disclosed methods and compositions, the exemplary methods, devices, and materials are described herein. It is to be understood that this disclosure is not limited to particular methods, and experimental conditions described, as such methods and conditions may apply.
Measurement and Evaluation Methods
[0139] Each of the compositions C (1) to C (7) as prepared in the ensuing
Examples 1 and 2 were evaluated for their sensorial aspects and stability characteristics.
Evaluation of stability
[0140] The stability of the compositions was evaluated by placing the
compositions obtained for 2 weeks, at 50°C. It can also be evaluated by placing the compositions obtained for 2 months at 25°C, 45°C and 4°C. The observation of phase separation and any change in appearance was verified.
Evaluation of transfer
[0141] The transfer was evaluated by a sensory test carried out under the
following conditions. The composition was applied to the lips and left to dry at room temperature (25°C) for 2 minutes. The transfer was then evaluated by a kiss test on a white support (such as white cup or white paper tissue ) and observing the color left on the support.
Measurement of viscosity
[0142] The viscosity of the compositions was measured using a rheometer
of the Rheomat RM 200 type from Lamy Rheology with spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm, at room temperature (25°C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).
Example 1
Working Examples
[0143] Liquid cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present
disclosure provided in Table 1 were prepared as described below.
Preparation of liquid cosmetic composition:
[0144] Prior to the preparation of the compositions, the phase A ingredients
were subjected to a grinding process.
[0145] The ingredients of phase A were mixed with a part of phase B1
ingredient, and phase B2 ingredients by passing three times through a triple roll mill at room temperature to obtain the first mixture. In a separate vessel, ingredients of phase C were mixed with the remaining part of phase B1 ingredient to obtain the second mixture. Phase D ingredients and the first mixture were sequentially added to the second mixture under constant stirring. The mixture was stirred for 5 minutes to obtain a homogenized, liquid cosmetic composition.
[0146] The compositions are prepared at room temperature (25°C).
Table 1
Phase Ingredients (INCI Name) Content(% By Weight Relative To The Total Weight Of The Composition)
C (1) C (2) C (3) C (4) C (5)
A Dimethicone ( XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt, Dow) 5 10 3 6 8
Dimethicone ( XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cSt, Dow) 2 2 2 3 2
B1 Isododecane 40.95 31.55 43.7 39.3 37.5
B2 Titanium Dioxide 0.8 - 0.8 0.8 0.8
Yellow 6 Lake 2.6 7 2.6 2.6 2.6
Red 7 1 0.8 1 1 1
Red 28 Lake 4.3 - 4.3 4.3 4.3
Red 22 Lake 3.7
C Ethylhexyl palmitate 5 5 5 5 5
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Caprylyl glycol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7
D Trimethylsiloxysilicate (BELSIL® TMS 803, Wacker) 6.2 6 6.2 6.3 6.3
Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone® 38, Elementis) 7.2 7.5 7.2 7.4 7.2
Polybutene (Indopol ®H 100, INEOS Oligomers) 20 22 19 19 20
Propylene Carbonate 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5
1.25 0.75 1.5 1.6 1.6
Silica Silylate (DOWSIL™ VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles, Dow Corning)
Antioxidant/fragrance 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
[0147] As observed from the Table 1 above, all the compositions were stable
according to the protocols mentioned above, and was found to be easy to apply with
good gliding properties.
[0148] The viscosities of each of these compositions were found to be in the range
0.6 to 1.3 Pa.s.
[0149] The deposits of the composition were precise and were found not to migrate
in the fine lines around lips.
[0150] The deposits were also observed to be matt, comfortable, not tacky, not
drying the lips, with good wear properties and very little transfer.
Example 2
Comparative Examples
[0151] Liquid cosmetic compositions provided in Table 2 were prepared by
a process as described earlier in Example 1.
Table 2
Phase Ingredients (INCI Name) C (6) C (7)
A Dimethicone ( XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt, Dow) 15 -
Dimethicone ( XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 10 cSt, Dow) 2 -
Dimethicone ( XIAMETER™ PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 350 cSt, Dow) - 5
B1 Isododecane 29 37.45
B2 Titanium Dioxide 0.8 -
Yellow 6 Lake 2.6 7
Red 7 1 0.8
Red 28 Lake 4.3 -
Red 22 Lake - 3.8
mica - 0.5
C Ethylhexyl palmitate 5 5
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.3 0.3
Caprylyl glycol 0.7 0.7
D Trimethylsiloxysilicate (BELSIL® TMS 803, Wacker) - 6
Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SILSOFT 74 FLUID – mixture of trimethylsiloxysilicate in isododecane 9 -
Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone® 38, Elementis) 8 7.5
Polybutene (Indopol ®H 100, INEOS Oligomers) 19 22
Propylene Carbonate 2.6 2.5
Silica Silylate (DOWSIL™ VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles, Dow Corning) 0.5 1.25
Antioxidant/fragrance 0.2 0.2
Results
[0152] The composition C (6) was not stable after 2 weeks at 50°C and
released oil. Moreover, the resulting deposit of the composition was not long
lasting.
[0153] The composition C (7) was observed to be in the form of a thick
cream. The composition was less easy to apply and was found to be rapidly drying.
The resulting deposit of the composition left a drying sensation on the lips and was
uncomfortable.
[0154] Accordingly, it is observed that the comparative examples (Table 2)
achieved unsatisfactory results, had stability issues which may be attributed
to deviation in the use of ingredients and weight percentages of the ingredients such
as the volatile and non-volatile silicone oils. Therefore it is essential to maintain the
ingredients as disclosed herein, within desired ranges to obtain a stable liquid
cosmetic composition with desired cosmetic properties.
I/We Claim:
1. A liquid cosmetic composition for making up of skin or lips, the
composition comprising:
(a) a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil in an amount ranging from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
(b) a volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil in an amount ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
(c) a mixture of at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil, wherein the volatile silicone oil is in an amount ranging from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the non-volatile silicone oil is in an amount ranging from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
(d) a trimethylsiloxysilicate; and
(e) a lipophilic gelling agent.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil is selected from polybutene, hydrogenated polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, squalane of vegetable origin, or mixtures thereof.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oil is selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, or mixtures thereof.
4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the volatile silicone oil is selected from caprylyl methicone, methyltrimethicone, disiloxane, trisiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes, or mixtures thereof.
5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the volatile silicone oil is having a viscosity at 25°C of less than 5 centistokes (cSt) (5 x 10-6 m2/s), measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard.
6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the non-volatile silicone oil is a dimethicone oil selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxanes, and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least one aliphatic group, preferably C2-C24 alkyl, and preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes.
7. The composition as claimed in claim 6, wherein the non-volatile silicone oil is having a viscosity at 25°C in a range of 5 (cSt) (5 x 10-6 m2/s) to 100 (cSt) (100 x 10-6 m2/s), measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard.
8. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the trimethylsiloxysilicate is in an amount ranging from 5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is selected from silica, clay, or mixtures thereof, wherein the silica is selected from hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica, hydrophobic silica aerogel, or mixtures thereof; and the clay is selected from hydrophobic hectorites, hydrophobic bentonites, or mixtures thereof.
10. The composition as claimed in claim 9, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is selected from hydrophobic treated pyrogenic silica, hydrophobic silica aerogel, or mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. The composition as claimed in claim 9, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is selected from hydrophobic hectorite, hydrophobic bentonite, or mixtures thereof in an amount ranging from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least an additional non-volatile oil selected from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils, non-volatile phenylated silicone oils, or mixtures thereof, and preferably from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oils.
13. The composition as claimed in claim 12, wherein the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from vegetable oils, oils with ester(s)
function(s) comprising at least 12 carbon atoms different from said vegetable oils, C10-C26 alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
14. The composition as claimed in claims 12 to 13, wherein the additional non-volatile oil is in an amount ranging from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one fatty solid compound selected from waxes, pasty compounds, or mixtures thereof.
16. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition is anhydrous; and the total amount of water is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition has a viscosity in the range of 0.4 to 2 Pa.s.
18. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition comprises one or more additives selected from fragrances, antioxidants, solvents, humectants, brighteners, preservatives, or mixtures thereof.
19. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one colorant selected from coated pigments, uncoated pigments, liposoluble dyes, or mixtures thereof.
20. A kit comprising (a) the composition as claimed in claim 1; (b) a container; and (c) an applicator.
21. A method for making up of skin or lips, comprising applying to said skin or lips, the composition as claimed in claim 1.
| # | Name | Date |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 202321006281-STATEMENT OF UNDERTAKING (FORM 3) [31-01-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-01-31 |
| 2 | 202321006281-POWER OF AUTHORITY [31-01-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-01-31 |
| 3 | 202321006281-FORM 1 [31-01-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-01-31 |
| 4 | 202321006281-DECLARATION OF INVENTORSHIP (FORM 5) [31-01-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-01-31 |
| 5 | 202321006281-COMPLETE SPECIFICATION [31-01-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-01-31 |
| 6 | 202321006281-Proof of Right [13-04-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-04-13 |
| 7 | 202321006281-FORM 3 [20-04-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-04-20 |
| 8 | 202321006281-FORM 18 [08-07-2024(online)].pdf | 2024-07-08 |