Abstract: ABSTRACT A COMPOSITION AND METHOD OF DYEING AND/OR LIGHTENING KERATIN FIBRES The present disclosure provides a composition comprising at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof: R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH) 2 formula (I); with at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent. Also provided, is a method of dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising applying the composition on said keratin fibres.
FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970 (39 of 1970) & THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: A COMPOSITION AND METHOD OF DYEING AND/OR
LIGHTENING KERATIN FIBRES
2. Applicant(s)
NAME NATIONALITY ADDRESS
L'OREAL French 14 rue royale 75008 PARIS, France
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it
is to be performed.
FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001] The present disclosure relates, in general, to personal care
compositions, and particularly, to compositions and method of dyeing/lightening keratin fibres.
BACKGROUND OF INVENTION
[0002] The dyeing of keratin fibres, particularly human hair, is a well-
known practice, and commonly involves the use of coloring compositions, which comprise oxidation dye precursors, generally referred to as oxidation bases and couplers. These dye precursors are colourless or weakly coloured compounds. When combined with an oxidizing agent, they give rise, by a process of oxidative condensation, to coloured compounds.
[0003] Typically, the method of oxidation dyeing involves applying, to
keratin fibres, oxidation bases, or a mixture of oxidation bases and couplers, with an oxidizing agent, which is added at the time of use.
[0004] Generally, this method is implemented at an alkaline pH, and
produces a dyeing and, at the same time, a lightening of the fibre, by the decolourization of the melanin pigment in hair. In this manner, the colourants develop into the cortex of hair and a uniform colour development is achieved.
[0005] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products,
which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.
[0006] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions,
preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin
and, more particularly, materials of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0007] Thus, there is a need for dyeing/lightening products that have good
working qualities in addition to good performance notably in terms of lightening, colour uptake and conditioning of hair, that are also environmentally friendly.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0008] In an aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a
composition comprising: at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or, combinations thereof:
R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2
(I) wherein, R1 is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; R2 represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when R1 is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent.
[0009] In an aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a method of
dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising applying a composition comprising: at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2
(I) wherein, R1 is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; R2
represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents
a hydrogen atom when R1 is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear
or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1
to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and
at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent, on said keratin fibres.
[0010] These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present
subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description and appended claims. This summary is provided to introduce a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] Those skilled in the art will be aware that the present disclosure is
subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is to be understood that the present disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions, and compounds referred to or indicated in this specification, individually or collectively, and any and all combinations of any or more of such steps or features. Definitions
[0012] For convenience, before further description of the present
disclosure, certain terms employed in the specification and examples are delineated here. These definitions should be read in the light of the remainder of the disclosure and understood as by a person of skill in the art. The terms used herein have the meanings recognized and known to those of skill in the art, however, for convenience and completeness, particular terms and their meanings are set forth below.
[0013] The articles “a”, “an” and “the” are used to refer to one or to more
than one (i.e., to at least one) of the grammatical object of the article.
[0014] The terms “comprise” and “comprising” are used in the inclusive,
open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. It is not intended to
be construed as “consists of only”.
[0015] The term "at least one" is used to mean one or more and thus includes
individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
[0016] Throughout this specification, unless the context requires otherwise
the word “comprise”, and variations such as “comprises” and “comprising”, will be
understood to imply the inclusion of a stated element or step or group of element or
steps but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of element or steps.
[0017] The term “including” is used to mean “including but not limited to”.
“Including” and “including but not limited to” are used interchangeably.
[0018] The term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature
of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International
Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe
personal care ingredients.
[0019] The term “CTFA” is an abbreviation of Cosmetic Toiletry and
Fragrance Association which publishes the International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook as a reference for cosmetic ingredients.
[0020] The term "optical isomers” includes compounds which contain the
same number and kinds of atoms and bonds, and different spatial arrangements of
the atoms, but which have non-superimposable mirror images.
[0021] The term “geometric isomers” includes two or more coordination
compounds which contain the same number and types of atoms and bonds, but
which have different spatial arrangements of the atoms.
[0022] All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of
the compositions of the present disclosure unless otherwise indicated. Ratios,
concentrations, amounts, and other numerical data may be presented herein in a
range format. It is to be understood that such range format is used merely for
convenience and brevity and should be interpreted flexibly to include not only the
numerical values explicitly recited as the limits of the range, but also to include all
the individual numerical values or sub-ranges encompassed within that range as if
each numerical value and sub-range is explicitly recited. For example, a percentage range of about 10% to 30% should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly recited limits of about 10% to about 30%, but also to include sub-ranges, such as 12% to 25%, 15% to 22%, and so forth, as well as individual amounts, including fractional amounts, within the specified ranges, such as 10.5 %, and 25.75 %, for example.
[0023] Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used
herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this disclosure belongs. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, the preferred methods and materials are now described. All publications mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference.
[0024] The present disclosure is not to be limited in scope by the specific
embodiments described herein, which are intended for the purposes of exemplification only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and methods are clearly within the scope of the disclosure, as described herein.
[0025] Embodiments herein provide a composition that demonstrates good
working qualities, such as ease of mixing, consistency, and application to hair, and is easily rinsed out after application. The composition also delivers superior performance benefits, including superior lightening/bleaching effects, uniform colour uptake, intense colour, chromatic colour, uniform colour, long-lasting colour and conditioning effect. Specifically, these desirable properties result from the synergistic activity of the components of at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I), as provided herein, and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent of the composition provided in embodiments herein. Accordingly, provided herein is a method for altering the appearance of keratin fibres, such as hair, by applying said composition on the keratin fibres. The composition, according to embodiments herein, is used for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, such as hair.
[0026] In particular, the composition, according to embodiments herein,
incorporates ingredients that are biodegradable and do not bioaccumulate in the environment, resulting in a more ecofriendly product.
Composition
[0027] Embodiments of the present invention relate to a composition
comprising at least one fatty alcohol; at least one cationic polysaccharide; at least one fatty acid; at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2
(I) wherein, R1 is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; R2 represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when R1 is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or alkaline agent.
[0028] The composition is an ecofriendly composition that reduces the use
of ingredients that are detrimental to the environment. In particular, it incorporates the use of the at least one carboxylic acid of the formula (I), according to embodiments herein, which plays an important role in providing uniform hair lightening and colour delivery and is an environmentally friendly ingredient.
[0029] The composition delivers good working qualities such as ease of
mixing, emulsifying, and good consistency which aids in uniform application of said composition on hair.
[0030] In addition, the composition provides long lasting colour and
superior colour uptake, intense colour, chromatic colour, uniform colour, or lightening effect while also providing a conditioning effect and nourishment to hair
resulting in lustre, suppleness, and smoothness of hair without leaving a feel perceived to be greasy.
Fatty alcohols
[0031] The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at
least one fatty alcohol.
[0032] The term “fatty alcohol” includes a long-chain aliphatic alcohol
comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH).
[0033] In an embodiment, the fatty alcohols may be saturated or
unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0034] Preferably, the fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, are
selected from C14 to C40 fatty alcohols.
[0035] The fatty alcohols, according to the present invention, are non-
oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated.
[0036] In particular, the fatty alcohols are different from nonionic
surfactants.
[0037] The fatty alcohols, according to the present invention, are neither
(poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated and are different from nonionic surfactants.
[0038] Preferably, the fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, are
selected from compounds having the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0039] More preferably, the fatty alcohols, according to embodiments
herein, are selected from 8 to 40, more preferably from 10 to 30, better from 12 to 24, or even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0040] The fatty alcohols, according to the present invention, may be
chosen from solid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols or combinations thereof.
[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid fatty
alcohol" includes a fatty alcohol with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
[0042] In an embodiment, the solid fatty alcohols may be selected from
compounds having the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30, more preferably from 12 to 24 atoms, and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0043] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols, according to embodiments
herein, that may be used, alone or as a mixture, are selected from lauryl alcohol (or 1-dodecanol); myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); and myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0044] The solid fatty alcohols, in a further embodiment, are selected from
cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, such as, cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols, according to embodiments herein, may be selected from mixtures of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and/or mixtures such as cetearyl alcohol.
[0045] The liquid fatty alcohols that may be used, according to the present
invention, are preferably selected from compounds having the structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated and/or branched, alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30, more preferably from 12 to 24, and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid fatty
alcohol" includes a fatty alcohol with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
[0047] Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols, according to embodiments
herein, may be used alone or as a combination, and maybe selected from oleyl
alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-
octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol, 2-
tetradecyl-1-cetanol, or combinations thereof, and more preferably is oleyl alcohol.
[0048] Preferably, the fatty alcohol(s), according to embodiments herein,
is(are) selected from at least one solid fatty alcohol or at least one liquid fatty alcohol, preferably from at least one solid fatty alcohol comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and more preferably comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0049] More preferably, the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) selected from cetyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, and preferably is cetearyl alcohol.
[0050] In a particular embodiment, the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) in a total
amount ranging from 0.5% to 40%, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] Preferably, the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) selected from solid fatty
alcohols, according to embodiments herein, and is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30 % by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, better from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic polysaccharides
[0052] The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at
least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0053] The term "cationic polysaccharide" includes any polysaccharide
comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic
[0054] In an embodiment, the cationic polysaccharide is selected from
cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums, or mixtures thereof, preferably is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, or combinations thereof.
[0055] Examples of cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups, according to the present invention, are described in French patent 1492597, and in particular are selected from the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Dow chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. The polyquaternium-10 is, for example, one of these polymers.
[0056] The cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted
with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, according to the present
invention, are described especially in US patent 4131576, and mention may be
made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or
hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryl-
oylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or
dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0057] The cationic galactomannan gums, according to the present
invention, are described in US patents 3589578 and 4031307, and particularly selected from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably C1-C6 trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride). Such products are especially sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, or JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
[0058] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) according to
embodiments herein, is(are) selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof.
[0059] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s), according to
embodiments herein, is(are) selected from guar gums comprising cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and better from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
[0060] Even more preferably, the cationic polysaccharides are selected
from polymers with INCI names, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or their combinations, better is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0061] In a particular embodiment, the cationic polysaccharide(s), is(are) in
a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) selected from
cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) selected from
guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty acids
[0064] The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at
least one fatty acid.
[0065] The term “fatty acid” includes a long-chain carboxylic acid
comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
[0066] In an embodiment, the fatty acids comprise from 10 to 30 carbon
atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
[0067] Preferably, the fatty acids, according to embodiments herein,
comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0068] More preferably, the fatty acids, according to embodiments herein,
include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0069] The fatty acids, according to the present invention, are selected from
compounds having the structure Ra-C(O)OH in which Ra represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0070] The fatty acids, according to embodiments herein, are neither
oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Further, they may be present as free form or as the neutralized, partly, or totally, form.
[0071] In an embodiment, the fatty acids are selected from solid fatty acids,
liquid fatty acids, or combinations thereof.
[0072] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid fatty acid”
includes a fatty acid with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
[0073] The solid fatty acids, according to the present invention, are selected
from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0074] Preferably, the solid fatty acids, according to embodiments herein, may be selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or combinations thereof, and more preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0075] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty acid” includes a fatty acid with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
[0076] The liquid fatty acid, according to the present invention, may be selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, or combinations thereof, preferably oleic acid.
[0077] Preferably, the fatty acid(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from fatty acids comprising C10 to C24 atoms, more preferably selected from C12-C18 fatty acids.
[0078] Preferably, the fatty acid(s) present in the composition is(are) selected from solid fatty acid(s).
[0079] More preferably, the fatty acid(s), according to embodiments herein,
is(are) selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof .
[0080] In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid(s) is(are) in a total amount
ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and preferentially from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] Preferably, the total amount of the fatty acid(s) selected from solid fatty acids, in a particular embodiment, is in a weight range of 0.1% to 15%, and preferably in a weight range of 0.2% to 10%, and preferentially from 0.4% to 5%
by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Carboxylic acids
[0082] The composition, according to the present invention, comprises at
least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2
(I)
in which:
- R1 represents hydrogen atom, or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,
-CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-
CH2-COOH group; and
- R2 represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when R1 is other than a hydrogen atom; and
- R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0083] Preferably, according to embodiments herein, the carboxylic acids
of formula (I) correspond to:
- compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when R1 represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when R1 represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom;
- compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, when R1 represents the -CH(CH3)-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when R1 represents a -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and to
- compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, when R1 represents the -CH2CH2OH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0084] More preferably, according to embodiments herein, the carboxylic
acids of formula (I) correspond to compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions when R1 represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0085] The carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to the present
invention, may take the form of pure enantiomers, preferably in L configuration, or the form of mixtures, or the form of racemic mixtures.
[0086] In an embodiment, the salts of the one or more carboxylic acids of
formula (I) are selected from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, ammonium salts, or combinations thereof.
[0087] Examples of alkali metal salts include especially sodium (Na+) and
potassium (K+) salts, whereas examples of alkaline earth metal salts include especially calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) salts.
[0088] For the purposes of the present invention, a “transition metal” is a
metal comprising an incomplete d subshell, and more particularly in the II oxidation state, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).
[0089] The organic amine salts, according to present invention, may be
made of the salts of primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, or alternatively of alkanolamines. The amines exhibit one or more identical or non-identical radicals, of linear or branched C1 to C20 alkyl type, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.
[0090] Preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to
embodiments herein, are selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic
amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0091] More preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to
embodiments herein, are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0092] Even more preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according
to embodiments herein, are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0093] Preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (I), according to
embodiments herein, is N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA) and/or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate.
[0094] N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-
bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate and N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid are respectively represented by compounds (II), (III) and (IV) below:
Table 1
No. Ingredient (INCI) Compositions
A A1
1 E thanolamine 7.83 7.83
2 Ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25
3 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) 0.2 -
4 Ethylenediaminetetraa cetic acid (EDTA) - 0.2
5 Myristic acid 0.02 0.02
6 Palmitic acid 0.26 0.26
7 Stearic acid 0.32 0.32
8 Propylene glycol 5.00 5.00
9 Guar hydroxypropyl-trimonium chloride 0.5 0.5
10 Cetearyl alcohol 17.00 17.00
11 Laureth-12 1.50 1.50
12 Laureth-4 3.00 3.00
13 Oleth-20 1.50 1.50
14 Polysorbate 21 2.40 2.40
15 Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose 0.05 0.05
16 Vegetable Oil (Helianthus annus) seed oil 6.00 6.00
17 Sodium metabisulfite 0.75 0.75
18 Water qs 100 qs 100
[0171] The oxidizing composition B was prepared from the ingredients of
which the contents are indicated in Table 2 below, expressed in % by weight:
Ingredients Composition B
Stabilizing and chelating agents Qs
Hydrogen peroxide 6.00
Cetearyl alcohol 2.28
Ceteareth-25 0.57
Trideceth-2 carboxamide mea 0.85
Glycerol 0.50
Phosphoric acid qs pH 2.2
Water qs 100
Example 2:
Consumer evaluation of working qualities
[0172] Protocol: The working qualities, including ease of mixing and
application, consistency, ease of emulsifying, and ease of rinsing, were tested on consumer participants/volunteers. 4 participants with mid-length to long hair, with average to high quantity and with 0% to 20% grey hair were selected. Prior to the application of the compositions, a full head shampoo of the participants’ hair was done, and the hair was blast dried thereafter.
[0173] Each of the composition A, and the comparative composition A1
were mixed independently with the oxidizing composition B in a weight ratio of 1:1 to obtain mixtures 1 and 2, respectively.
[0174] Each of the mixtures 1 (Composition A+B) and 2 (Composition
A1+B) were applied on the participants’ hair, left for a pause time of 35 minutes, and was then rinsed with water to remove the mixtures.
[0175] The rinsed hair was then blow-dried and evaluated for the above
working qualities. The consumers assessed the time taken for mixing the compositions, how quickly the compositions emulsified, the number of strokes of a brush and time taken to uniformly apply the composition on hair, the amount of time taken to rinse out the mixtures, and the feel/texture of the hair after rinsing.
[0176] Results: Mixture 1 comprising composition A had a creamy texture with
white colour, with a medium thin consistency. With regard to its working qualities, mixture 1 was found by the participants to be very easy to mix (rated 4 on a scale of 5 with 1 indicating very difficult mixing and 5 indicating very very easy mixing) as it did not require many strokes for mixing, and to apply to hair with uniform application. It was also rated as very easy to emulsify (rated 4 on a scale of 5 with 1 indicating very difficult emulsification and 5 indicating very very easy emulsification) and easy to rinse out of hair. In terms of performance, mixture 1 also resulted in more lustre, sheen, and conditioning effect on hair, and demonstrated good lightening.
[0177] Mixture 2 comprising composition A1 had a creamy texture with white colour, with a medium thick consistency. With regard to its working qualities, mixture 2 was found by the participants to be easy to mix (rated 3 on a scale of 5 with 1 indicating very difficult mixing and 5 indicating very very easy mixing) as it required more strokes to mix and was rated as easy to apply to hair with uniform application. It was also rated as easy to emulsify (rated 3 on a scale of 1 indicating very difficult emulsification and 5 indicating very very easy emulsification) and easy to rinse out of hair. In terms of performance, mixture 2 had lower lustre and sheen, and also had lower lightening effect
[0178] Overall, mixture 1 was preferred by consumers over mixture 2 for
its working qualities and performance, indicating that the ingredients of the composition A, function synergistically to provide desired effects.
[0179] Mixture 1 was found to be very easy to mix and also emulsified very
easily. The consistency of mixture 1 was also preferred as it had a thicker and creamier consistency which was easy to apply, while the consistency of mixture 2 was thinner and not as preferable. Mixture 1 was also found to give a more soft and supple feel to hair with lustre and better lightening effect, among others.
ADVANTAGES OF THE PRESENT DISCLOSURE
[0180] The composition of the present disclosure demonstrates good
working qualities. It is easy to mix, emulsify and apply to hair in a uniform manner
and therefore, is less time-consuming to apply while providing good performance in terms of lightening and conditioning of hair.
[0181] It is also an eco-friendly composition as it reduces the use of
ingredients that have detrimental effects on the environment and replaces them with environmentally friendly alternatives.
I/We Claim:
1. A composition comprising:
at least one fatty alcohol;
at least one cationic polysaccharide;
at least one fatty acid;
at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) below, its optical isomers, geometric
isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH) 2 (I) wherein,
R1 is selected from hydrogen, -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; R2 represents a CH2COOH group when R1 represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when R1 is other than a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; and at least one oxidative dye and/or at least one alkaline agent.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from at least one solid fatty alcohol, or at least one liquid fatty alcohol, preferably from at least one solid fatty alcohol comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and more preferably comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
3. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, and preferably is cetearyl alcohol.
4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty alcohol(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and better from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums, or combinations thereof, preferably from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof, more preferably from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and better from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid is selected from fatty acids comprising C6 to C40 atoms, preferably selected from C10-C30 fatty acids, more preferably selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof, and better from myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof.
8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and still better from 0.5% to 3% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
carboxylic acid of formula (I) is selected from:
- compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when R1 represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when R1 represents a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when R1 represents a -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom;
- compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, when R1 represents a -CH(CH2)-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when R1 represents a -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom;
- compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, when R1 represents a -CH2CH2OH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; or combinations thereof.
10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
carboxylic acid of formula (I) is selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, N-
lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid,
iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts
thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic
amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric
isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof, preferably from N,N-
dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal
salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic
amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric
isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof, more preferably, from
N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-
aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition
metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, solvates
thereof, or combinations thereof, and even more preferably from N,N-
dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA) and/or tetrasodium N,N-
bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate.
11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oxidative dye comprises at least one oxidation base and/or at least one oxidation coupler;
the oxidation base is selected from a group consisting of para-phenylenediamines,
bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols,
heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts; and
the oxidation coupler is selected from a group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenol, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers, and their addition salts, the amount of each of which is preferably ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, metal
carbonates, metal bicarbonates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates,
alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline-earth metal metasilicates, or combinations
thereof, preferably selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide or
combinations thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines, and better is
monoethanolamine.
14. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkaline agent is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
16. The composition as claimed in claim 15, wherein the oxidizing agent is in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
17. A method of dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising applying the composition as claimed in claims 1 to 16 on said keratin fibres.
18. Use of the composition as claimed in any of the preceding claims 1 to 16, for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, such as hair.
| # | Name | Date |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 202321065316-STATEMENT OF UNDERTAKING (FORM 3) [28-09-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-09-28 |
| 2 | 202321065316-POWER OF AUTHORITY [28-09-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-09-28 |
| 3 | 202321065316-FORM 1 [28-09-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-09-28 |
| 4 | 202321065316-DECLARATION OF INVENTORSHIP (FORM 5) [28-09-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-09-28 |
| 5 | 202321065316-COMPLETE SPECIFICATION [28-09-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-09-28 |
| 6 | 202321065316-Proof of Right [03-11-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-11-03 |
| 7 | 202321065316-FORM 3 [29-02-2024(online)].pdf | 2024-02-29 |
| 8 | 202321065316-FORM 18 [21-06-2024(online)].pdf | 2024-06-21 |
| 9 | 202321065316-Request Letter-Correspondence [29-07-2024(online)].pdf | 2024-07-29 |
| 10 | 202321065316-Power of Attorney [29-07-2024(online)].pdf | 2024-07-29 |
| 11 | 202321065316-Form 1 (Submitted on date of filing) [29-07-2024(online)].pdf | 2024-07-29 |
| 12 | 202321065316-Covering Letter [29-07-2024(online)].pdf | 2024-07-29 |
| 13 | 202321065316-CERTIFIED COPIES TRANSMISSION TO IB [29-07-2024(online)].pdf | 2024-07-29 |