FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970 (39 of 1970) & THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SPECIFIC CATIONIC
SURFACTANT, AN AMPHOTERIC POLYMER, AND AN OXIDIZING AGENT AND/OR AN OXIDATION DYE, AND HAIR TREATMENT PROCESS
2. Applicant(s)
NAME NATIONALITY ADDRESS
L'ORÉAL French 14, rue Royale 75008 Paris, France
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it
is to be performed.

Description
The invention relates to a composition for treating human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising a specific cationic surfactant, an amphoteric polymer and an oxidizing agent and/or an oxidation dye, and to a hair treatment process using the composition.
It is a known practice to dye and/or lighten keratin fibres, and in particular human hair, with oxidizing compositions or dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, which are generally known as “oxidation bases”, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases.
Oxidation dye precursors are compounds that are initially uncoloured or sparingly coloured, which develop their dyeing power on the hair in the presence of oxidizing agents, leading to the formation of coloured compounds. The formation of these coloured compounds results either from an oxidative condensation of the “oxidation bases” with themselves, or from an oxidative condensation of the “oxidation bases” with coloration-modifying compounds, or “couplers”, which are generally present in the dye compositions used in oxidation dyeing and are represented more particularly by meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds.
The variety of molecules used, consisting on the one hand of the “oxidation bases” and on the other hand of the “couplers”, allows a very rich palette of colours to be obtained.
But these treatments can damage hair and their cosmetic properties. So, there is a need to provide to consumers hair dyeing and/or lightening products that confer good lightening performances and/or dyeing performances such as intensity, chromaticity, selectivity with a high level of cosmetic properties of said fibres, such as softness, smoothness, manageability and disentangling. These cosmetic properties may also be long-lasting.
The aim of the present invention is to supply novel compositions that make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair, in particular the softness while obtaining good dyeing or lightening properties.
This aim is achieved with the present invention, which relates to a composition, especially for
the treatment of keratin fibres, and in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair,
comprising
a) one or more cationic surfactant of formula (I) :
CH. O
I 3 II
u n CH„—CH-0-C-R1
J N +
HX CH^—CH-0-C-R2 X-
CH. O
(I)
R1 and R2, identical or different, are a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms; and

X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion; and
b) one or more amphoteric polymer(s), and
c) one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s) and/or one or more oxidation dye(s).
The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, such as dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, using this composition. In particular, the present invention also relates to a particular process for dyeing keratin fibres. The present invention also relates to a particular process for lightening keratin fibres.
The composition of the invention is especially intended for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, i.e. head hair, and allows to obtain good cosmetic properties, especially to improve the softness.
In addition, when the composition in accordance with the invention is used for dyeing keratin fibers, good dyeing properties are obtained, especially powerful, chromatic and sparingly selective colorings that show good resistance to the various attacks to which the hair may be subjected, such as shampoo washes, light and sweat.
The composition in accordance with the present invention makes it possible to obtain a good effect of lightening keratin fibers without damaging them and without impairing their cosmetic properties, in particular when it is used for bleaching.
In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the indicated ranges are included in the invention.
The term “at least one” is intended to mean “one or more”.
The term “polymer” means any compound derived from the polymerization by polycondensation or from the radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide, and of a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R denoting an optionally hydroxylated C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group. All the compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide or a fatty amine are in particular excluded.
Cationic surfactant
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactant of formula (I):

H c CH—CH-0-C-R1
H-c' CH—CH-O—C-R2 X-
GK, O
(I)
wherein
R1 is a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms; R2 is a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms; and X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion.
By unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety is meant that the hydrocarbon radical comprises at least one carbon-carbon double bond (C=C) and/or at least one carbon-carbon triple bond. It can of course include several double and/or triple carbon-carbon bonds.
By saturated hydrocarbon moiety is meant that the hydrocarbon radical does not comprise a carbon-carbon double bond (C=C) or carbon-carbon triple bond.
Preferably, R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, especially 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and especially 17 carbon atoms. When unsaturated, R1 preferably comprises at least one double bond (C=C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
Preferably, R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, especially 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and especially 17 carbon atoms. When unsaturated, R2 preferably comprises at least one double bond (C=C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
Preferably, R1 and R2 comprise the same number of carbon atoms.
Preferably, R1 and R2 are the same.
Preferably, R2 represents an oleyl group.
Preferably, R1 represents an oleyl or stearyl or isostearyl group.
According to a particular embodiment, R1 and R2 are both oleyl.
According to another particular embodiment, R1 represents a stearyl group or an isostearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.
In some embodiments, the composition may include a mixture of cationic surfactants of formula (I). In particular, the composition may include a mixture of cationic surfactants of formula (I) in which R1 and R2 independently comprise 15 to 19, in particular 17 carbon atoms, and only one double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.

In particular, the acyl groups (-C(O)R1 and -C(O)R2) may be derived from unsaturated carboxylic fatty acids which may comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 at 20 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid. The fatty acids may be of natural, plant or animal origin; in particular, they may be derived from vegetable oils, for example olein, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil or tall oil (pine oil).
The acyl group -C(O)R1 and -C(O)R2) may also be derived from saturated carboxylic fatty acids which may comprise 12 to 24 carbon atoms, especially 14 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 20 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of isostearic acid, palmitic acid and arachidic acid.
Non-limiting examples of cosmetically acceptable counterions include chloride, bromide, and methosulfate. In some instances, methosulfate is a preferred counterion.
Preferably, X- is an anion of the halide (chloride, iodide or bromide), phosphate, acetate, lactate, sulfate or (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate type, in particular methylsulfate or ethylsulfate; (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate.
The compounds of formula (I) may be prepared by esterification of alkanolamines, and in particular of methyldiisopropanolamine (MDIA), and unsaturated or saturated carboxylic fatty acids, for example in a molar ratio ranging from 1:1.6 to 1:2, the esterification being followed by a quaternization. The proportion of unsaturated fraction in these natural fatty acids can be adjusted so as to have an iodine number of between 40 and 160, especially between 80 and 150, which is the case for the vegetable oils mentioned above.
The esterification can be carried out by any known means, in particular in the presence of a catalyst such as methanesulfonic acid, preferably in an inert atmosphere (nitrogen for example), preferably at a temperature of 160-240°C. The quaternization can be carried out by any known means, for example in a solvent such as ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, preferably at a temperature of 60-90°C, by adding a quantity equimolar quaternizing agent, especially with stirring. Quaternizing agents that may be mentioned include organic or inorganic quaternizing agents such as short-chain dialkyl sulfates or phosphates, in particular dimethyl sulfate and dimethyl phosphate, or short-chain halogenated hydrocarbons such as methyl chloride.
Such quaternary ammonium compounds are in particular described in patent US6653275, which describes in particular a fatty acid ester from tall oil (distribution of fatty acid chain lengths: 1% C16, 2% C18, 37 % in C18:1, 60% in C18:2 and 1% greater than C18) and of MDIA, in a molar ratio MDIA/fatty acids equal to 1:1.8, said ester being subsequently quaternized with dimethyl sulfate.
Mention may also be made of patent EP240727 which describes quaternary ammonium compounds and in particular dimethyl-di-(oleyloxyisopropyl)ammonium metho-sulfate.
A particularly preferred cationic surfactant of formula (I) is bis-(isostearoyl/oleoyl isopropyl) dimonium methosulfate, for example commercially available as VARISOFT EQ 100®.

The total content of cationic surfactant of formula (I) in the composition, ranges preferably from 0,05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0,1% to 4% by weight, more preferentially from 0,2% to 3% by weight, better still from 0,4% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of bis-(isostearoyl/oleoyl isopropyl) dimonium methosulfate in the composition, ranges preferably from 0,05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0,1% to 4% by weight, more preferentially from 0,2% to 3% by weight, better still from 0,4% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Amphoteric polymer
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric (or zwitterionic) polymer(s).
The term "amphoteric polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.
The amphoteric (or zwitterionic) polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers;
B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based radical or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer comprising an α,β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
(1) polymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxyl group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and at least one basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, chosen especially from the following:
a) dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates,
dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides and dialkylaminoalkylacrylamides. Such
compounds are described in patent US 3 836 537.
b) trialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate salts and trialkylaminoalkyl acrylate salts, and salts
of trialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and of trialkylaminoalkylacrylamide.

Mention may be made especially of the acrylic acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium
chloride copolymer available from the company Stockhausen under the name
Polymere W3794. Mention may also be made of the acrylic
acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers available from the company Nalco under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2003.
(2) polymers comprising units derived from:
a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl radical,
b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and
c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred
according to the invention are groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon
atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-
octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
The acidic comonomers are more particularly chosen from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
The copolymers whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name is
octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL®47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used.
(3) copolymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer derived from a vinyl compound
bearing a carboxylic group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic
acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and at least one monomer of diallyldialkylammonium salt type,
the alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyl group is a methyl
group.
Mention may be made in particular of amphoteric polymers chosen from copolymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and at least one monomer of diallyldialkylammonium salt type, the alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from copolymers based on

(meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, more preferably from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
Among these polymers, copolymers comprising dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid as monomers optionally combined with acrylamide are particularly preferred. Mention may be made in particular of the compounds sold by the company Nalco under the names Merquat 280, Merquat 295, Merquat 3330, Merquat 3331 and Merquat 3333,
(4) crosslinked and alkylated polyamino amides partially or totally derived from polyamino amides of general formula:
—[-CO R-, — CO — Z—|—
(II)
in which R10 represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a mono-or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid containing an ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids, or a radical derived from the addition of any one of said acids to a bis(primary) or bis(secondary) amine, and Z denotes a radical derived from a bis(primary), mono- or bis(secondary) polyalkylene-polyamine and preferably represents:
a) in proportions of from 60 to 100 mol%, the radical:
(III)
where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or else x = 3 and p = 2,
this radical being derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetramine or dipropylenetriamine;
b) in proportions of from 0 to 40 mol%, the radical (III) above in which x = 2 and p = 1
and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the radical derived from piperazine:
_N N—
c) in proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the radical -NH-(CH2)6-NH- derived from
hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a
difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-
unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group
of the polyaminoamide, and being alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or
an alkane sultone or salts thereof.
The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids containing from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, acids containing an ethylenic double bond, for instance acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.

The alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone; the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts,
(5) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula:
- ^121 fH o
R„ C N — (CH2)Z— C-O"
R13 R1B (IV)
in which R11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, methyl, ethyl or propyl, and R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10.
The polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
Mention may be made, by way of example, of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z301 by the company Sandoz.
(6) polymers derived from chitosan comprising monomer units corresponding to the following
formulae:
CH2OH CH2OH CH2OH
H H—O [-O— HO j-O— H Hr—O rO—
\0H H/ <& H H (E) OHH (F)
O_|H ' |—^H '] [H
H NHCOCH3 H NH2 H NH
C=O
R16-COOH
unit D being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, unit E in proportions of between 5% and 50% and unit F in proportions of between 30% and 90%, it being understood that, in this unit F, R16 represents a radical of formula (V):
R 18 R 19
R1—C — (O)-C
1 ' (V)
in which, if q = 0, R17, R18 and R19, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted with one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups,

an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the radicals R17, R18 and R19 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom;
or, if q = 1, R17, R18 and R19 each represent a hydrogen atom, and also the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids,
(7) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan, sold under the name Evalsan powder by the company Jan Dekker,
(8) polymers containing units corresponding to the general formula (VI) are described in French patent 1 400 366:
I" [ I
{CH—CRJ 1 1
COOH CO
N—R*
(VI)
in which R20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O, CH3CH2O or phenyl radical, R21 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R22 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R23 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: -R24-N(R22)2, R24 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)-, R22 having the meanings mentioned above, and also the higher homologues of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms,
(9) amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X- type chosen from:
a) polymers obtained by reaction of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate with compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:
-D-X-D-X-D- (VII)
where D denotes a radical
_N N—
and X denotes the symbol E or E’, E or E’, which may be identical or different, denote a divalent radical that is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which can comprise, in addition to the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or

heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups.
b) polymers of formula:
-D-X-D-X- (VIII)
where D denotes a radical
_N N—
and X denotes the symbol E or E and at least once E’; E having the meaning given above and E’ is a divalent radical that is an alkylene radical bearing a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl radicals and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted with an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate,
(10) (C1-C5)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine, such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semiesterification with an N,N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers may also comprise other vinyl comonomers, such as vinylcaprolactam,
and mixtures thereof.
The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of family (3).
Preferably, the amphoteric polymers are chosen from copolymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, preferably acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and at least one monomer of diallyldialkylammonium salt type, the alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, more preferably from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
The total content of amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition ranges preferably from 0,01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0,05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0,1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0,1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, more preferably from copolymers of

(meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride in the composition, ranges preferably from 0,01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0,05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0,1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0,1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Oxidation dye(s)
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more dyes for dyeing keratin fibers, especially hair.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes for dyeing keratin fibers, especially hair.
The oxidation dyes may be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally in combination with one or more couplers.
Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.
The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are notably chosen from the addition salts with an acid, such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Moreover, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of the salts.
Among the para-phenylenediamines that may be mentioned are, for example, para-
phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-
phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-
para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-
methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(β-
hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-
hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-
para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-
phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-
phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-
hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-

(4’-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-
hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,
N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-
phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4’-
aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts thereof.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, particular preference is given to para-
phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-
hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-
methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-
dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-
phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-
phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the
corresponding addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts thereof.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be mentioned, for example, are N,N’-bis(β-
hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N’-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-
bis(4’-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-
bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4-
methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(ethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-amino-3’-
methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, and the
corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of the salts.
Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-
amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-
hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-
methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β-
hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts, the
solvates and/or the solvates of the salts.
Among the ortho-aminophenols that may be mentioned, for example, are 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned, for example, are pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of the salts.
Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-
aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described,
for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include
pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholin-4-
yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-
methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-

aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-
aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-
diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-
yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-
yl)pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-
hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-
hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-
a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-
hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-
aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the
solvates of the salts.
More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 with:
a) a (di)(C1-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted with at least one
hydroxyl, amino or imidazolium group;
b) an optionally cationic 5- to 7-membered heterocycloalkyl group containing from 1 to 3
heteroatoms, optionally substituted with one or more (C1-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(C1-
C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or
c) a (C1-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, such as a
β-hydroxyalkoxy group, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the solvates of
the salts.
Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for
example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent
application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-
triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts thereof, the solvates and the solvates of the salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in
patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970,
FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, for instance 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-
1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4’-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-
methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-
methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-
methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-
methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-
hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-
hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-
aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-
triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(β-
hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates

and/or the solvates of the salts. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferentially 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt, a solvate and/or a solvate of a salt.
The pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned comprise diamino-N,N-
dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886
136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-
dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-
pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-
a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one,
4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-
dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-
amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-
dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-
tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-
dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-
dihydropyrazol-3-one and 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-
1-one, the salts thereof, the solvates thereof and the solvates of the salts thereof.
Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or solvate of a salt.
Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole
and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or 2-β-
hydroxyethoxy-3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or solvate of a salt.
Preferably, the oxidation base(s) is (are) chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates thereof and/or the solvates of the salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, the oxidation base(s) is (are) preferably present in a total content ranging from 0,001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0,005% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0,01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0,05% to 5%, even better still from 0,1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which may be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibers.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
Among the couplers that are useful according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents, and also the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts thereof.

Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-
methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-
methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene,
2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-
diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-
naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole,
2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(β-
hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-
methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-
b][1,2,4]triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c][1,2,4]triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole,
2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol and 3-
amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and the
solvates of the salts thereof, and the corresponding mixtures.
In general, the addition salts of the couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Moreover, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0,001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0,005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0,01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0,05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0,1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
When they are present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably ranges from 0,001% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0,005% to 15% by weight, better still from 0,01% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0,05% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0,1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Chemical oxidizing agent
The composition of the invention may comprise one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s).
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s).
The term "chemical oxidizing agent" is intended to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates or

perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates.
The chemical oxidizing agent is advantageously hydrogen peroxide.
When present, the concentration of chemical oxidizing agent(s) ranges preferably from 0,1% to 50% by weight, even more preferentially from 0,5% to 30% by weight and better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Additional surfactant
The composition of the invention can further comprise one or several additional surfactant(s).
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional surfactant(s).
The additional surfactants can be chosen from cationic surfactants different from surfactants of formula (I), anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and non-ionic surfactants.
Amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant(s)
The composition of the invention can comprise one or more amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant(s).
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant(s).
The amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. In particular, mention may be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C3-8 alkyl)betaines or (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C6-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines. Among the optionally quaternized, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (VIII) and (VIII') below:
Ra-CONHCH2CH2- N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO-) (IX)
in which:
Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

and
Ra’-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IX’)
in which:
B represents -CH2CH2OX',
B' represents -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2,
X' represents the group -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom,
Y' represents –COOH, –COOZ’, the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z’,
Z’ represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
Ra’ represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium
caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of betaines comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 fatty chain and in particular the compounds of formula (A):
R1-(CONH)x-A1- N+(R2)(R3)-A2-Z (A)
with
x denoting 0 or 1,
A1 and A2 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched C1-C10 alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical,
R1 denoting a linear or branched C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
R2 and R3 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,
Z denoting a CO2- group or an SO3- group.
Preferably, R2 and R3 denote a methyl radical.

The amphoteric surfactant(s) of betaine type used in the compositions according to the present invention may especially be (C8–20)alkylbetaines, (C8–20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8– 20 alkyl)amido(C2-8 alkyl)betaines or (C8–20 alkyl)amido(C6–8 alkyl)sulfobetaines.
Among the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above that are preferably used are (C8-20 alkyl)betaines and (C8-20 alkyl)amido(C2-8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof.
More particularly, the amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are selected from cocoylbetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
Preferably, the composition contains at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants, preferably chosen from surfactants of betaine type, preferably (C8-20 alkyl)betaines and (C8-20 alkyl)amido(C2-8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from cocoylbetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
When present, the amount of amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants in the composition preferably ranges from 0,1 to 10%, by weight, preferably from 0,2 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.3 to 2 % by weight relative to the total weight of the first and/or second composition.
Non-ionic surfactant(s)
The composition of the invention can comprise one or more non-ionic surfactant(s).
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactant(s).
Among the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention, mention may be made, alone or as mixtures, of fatty alcohols, α-diols and alkylphenols, these three types of compound being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated and containing a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Preferably the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from:
• (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols;
• glycerolated fatty alcohols;
• alkylpolyglycosides.

The term "fatty chain" means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
As regards the alkyl polyglycosides or APGs, they are more particularly selected from compounds of general formula:
R1O-(R2O)t (G)v (X)
in which formula (X):
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical comprising approximately from 8 to 24 carbon atoms or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately from 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
- G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4, and
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
Preferred alkyl polyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (X) in which R1 more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0, and G can denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose.
The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in the formula (X), can range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferentially from 1.1 to 1.5.
The glycoside bonds between the sugar units are of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
Compounds of formula (X) are represented in particular by the products sold by Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). Use may also be made of the products sold by Seppic under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS 10), the products sold by BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or the products sold by Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.
Use may also be made, for example, of C8-C16 alkyl 1,4-polyglucoside as a 53% aqueous solution, sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
As regards the mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably comprise on average from 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly from 1 to 10 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 5.
The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulae: RO[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH, RO[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH or

RO[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH; in which formulae:
• R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based
radical comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; m is an integer between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1.5 to 6; R may optionally comprise heteroatoms, for instance oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and/or ether and/or amide groups. R preferably denotes optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated C10-C20 alkyl and/or alkenyl radicals.
Use may be made, for example, of the polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxylauryl ether sold under the name Chimexane® NF from Chimex.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols that are suitable for performing the invention are chosen more particularly from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably have the following formula:
Ra-[O-CH2-CH2]n-OH
with
- Ra representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and
- n is an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferentially between 2 and 50 and mre particularly between 8 and 30, such as 20.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE). Among these, mention may be made more particularly of lauryl alcohol 2 OE, lauryl alcohol 3 OE, decyl alcohol 3 OE, decyl alcohol 5 OE and oleyl alcohol 20 OE.
Mixtures of these (poly)oxyethylenated fatty alcohols may also be used.
Among the non-ionic surfactants, use is preferably made of (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols and C6-C24 alkyl polyglucosides, and their mixtures, and (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly used.
When present, the amount of non-ionic surfactant preferably ranges from 0,1 % to 10% by weight, in particular from 0,5% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0,8% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

In one preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention has a total content of oxyethylenated fatty alcohol(s) ranging from 0,1% to 105% by weight, preferably from 0,5% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0,8 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty substance
The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty substances.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances.
The term "fatty substance" is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
Advantageously, the fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
Preferably, the fatty substances that are of use according to the invention are non-silicone.
The term "non-silicone fatty substance" is intended to mean a fatty substance not containing any Si-O bonds and the term "silicone fatty substance" is intended to mean a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
Useful fatty substances according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. A liquid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). A solid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention is (are) chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro

oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
As regards the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly (INCI name mineral oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, almond oil, argan oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30, preferably of C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, for instance especially the mixed oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
Preferentially, the liquid fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
The solid fatty substance(s) is (are) preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
The term "fatty acids" is intended to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
The solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are especially chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid (or palmitic acid), arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid(s) is (are) chosen from lauric acid, cetylic acid (palmitic acid), stearic acid, myristic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The term "fatty alcohol" is intended to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
The solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters resulting from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols may also be used.
Mention may especially be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl
26

myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C and which may range up to 200°C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organisation. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made notably of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made notably of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:
R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
The ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C15 group.

Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.
Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.
As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition does not comprise fatty acids.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty substance, preferentially chosen from solid fatty alcohols.
According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance, preferentially at least one liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, , at least one solid fatty alcohol and mixtures thereof.
When present, the total content of fatty substance in the composition, preferably non-silicone fatty substance, may range from 0,5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition has a content of fatty substances, preferably non-silicone fatty substances, that are liquid at 25°C, ranging from 0,1 % to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0,2 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0,3 % to 10% by

weight, more preferably from 0,4 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to another preferred embodiment, the composition has a content of fatty substances, preferably non-silicone fatty substances, that are solid at 25°C, ranging from 0,5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0,8% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Associative polymer
The composition according to the invention may also comprises one or more associative polymers different from amphoteric polymers previously described.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more associative polymers.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associative polymer” means an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally includes, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.
The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the molecules of which are capable, in the formulation medium, of combining with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain includes from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
A particular case of associative polymers is amphiphilic polymers, that is to say polymers including one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them water-soluble and one or more hydrophobic regions or groups (including at least one fatty chain) via which the polymers interact and assemble with each other or with other molecules.
The term “hydrophobic group” means a group or a polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When it denotes a hydrocarbon-based group, the hydrophobic group includes at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty chain” means a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty compound”, for instance a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, means a compound comprising, in its main chain, at

least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, including at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may notably be made of:
- (A) those including at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit;
and more particularly those:
of which the hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, even more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and
of which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I’) below: CH2=C(R’)-CH2OBnR
in which R’ denotes H or CH3, B denotes an ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100 and R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from the alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R’ denotes H, n = 10 and R denotes a stearyl (C18) radical.
Among these anionic associative polymers, preference is particularly given to polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of Cl-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (I’) and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
Preference is most particularly given to crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth-10), notably the product sold by the company BASF under the name Salcare SC80, which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of Steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10) having the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether/Acrylates Copolymer;
- (B) those including at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type
and at least one hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
These polymers are preferably chosen from those for which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (XI) below:
CK, ~C—C—OH I II
(XI)
in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, and for which the hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (XII) below:

CJL, C—C — ORj
** ° (XII)
in which R2 denotes H, CH3 or C2H5 and R3 denotes a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
(C10-C30) Alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
Among these anionic associative polymers, use will more particularly be made of polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (XI) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3 and R3 denotes an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
Among anionic associative polymers of this type, preference is more particularly given, to those constituted of from 95% to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or else to those constituted of from 98% to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, such as those described previously.
Mention may in particular be made of the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20, Carbopol Ultrez 21, having the INCI name Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and even more preferably Pemulen TR1 and Carbopol 1382;
- (C) maleic anhydride/C30-C38 α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the maleic anhydride/C30-C38 α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer, in particular the product sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company Newphase Technologies (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer);
- (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising (a) from 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) from 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surface-active α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) from 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.
Mention may notably be made of the methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl(meta-isopropenyl)benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcohol terpolymer, notably as a 25% aqueous dispersion, such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 sold by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical), having the INC name Polyacrylate-3;

- (E) copolymers including among their monomers (i) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated
carboxylic acid, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an ester of an α,β-
monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, notably acrylic or methacrylic acid, and of
fatty alcohol, notably C8-C32 fatty alcohol, which is oxyalkylenated, notably comprising from 2
to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 4 to 50, or even from 10 to 40 EO.
Mention may in particular made, as monomers, of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate comprising 10 to 40 EO, in particular 18 to 30 EO.
Preferentially, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol, notably a C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.
Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 100 mol EO, in particular from 4 to 50 EO, or even from 10 to 40 EO.
By way of example, mention may be made of Aculyn 22 sold by the company Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (I NCI name: Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or also of Aculyn 28 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name: Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), and also of the Novethix L-10 Polymer sold by Lubrizol;
- (F) associative polymers including at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing
a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one
hydrophobic part.
Among the polymers of this type, mention may be made more especially of:
- crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers including from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899;
- terpolymers including from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US 5 089 578;
- copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which are non-crosslinked and crosslinked;
- copolymers constituted of AMPS units and of steareth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMS® sold by the company Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer), or beheneth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold by the company

Clariant, or also steareth-8 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex SNC® from Clariant (I NCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-8 Methacrylate Copolymer);
- (G) associative polymers including at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one α,β-
monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as terpolymers of
vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C1-C20 alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl
methacrylate, such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone® LM
(INCI name: VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).
Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:
- (A) cationic associative polyurethanes, which may be represented by the general formula
(Ia) below: R-X-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]rL’-(P’)p-X’-R’
in which:
R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;
X and X, which may be identical or different, represent a group including an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L”;
L, L’ and L”, which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;
P and P’, which may be identical or different, represent a group including an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;
Y represents a hydrophilic group;
r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive;
n, m and p are each, independently of each other, between 0 and 1000 inclusive;
the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.
Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends.
One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) described above, in which:
R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X and X each represent a group L”,
n and p are integers that are between 1 and 1000 inclusive, and
L, L’, L”, P, P’, Y and m have the meanings given above.
Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:

n = p = 0 (the polymers do not include any units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation),
the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide or a sulfate, etc.
Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X and X’ both independently represent a group including a quaternary amine,
n = p = 0, and
L, L’, Y and m have the meaning indicated above.
The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300 000 inclusive.
Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group originates from a monofunctional compound.
By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
When X and/or X denote(s) a group including a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X may represent one of the following formulae:
—N-R2 — —N-R2— — R2- or — R2- forX
Rj Ri A N /NtA"
R/Ri Rl CRl
-R2-N- -R2-N- — R2" or —R2- f
*■ '■A A *fr*
in which:
R2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;
R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or

alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;
A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.
The groups L, L’ and L’’ represent a group of formula:
—Z-C-NH-R4-NH-C-Z—
11 11
O O
in which:
Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and
R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.
The groups P and P’ comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae:
R.
—R5-N-R7- or —R5-N-R7 —
Re K A
N
or — R5-CH-R7— or _R._CH-R7 —
R6-N-R<> A
Rg
N
R,o "K.-CH-R,-
or —R,-CH-R7— Ul R|o
Re-N-Rp A
R8
in which:
R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined above;
R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as R1 and R3 defined above;
R10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P; and
A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate.

As regards the meaning of Y, the term “hydrophilic group” means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.
By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and notably a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen. The functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. In the present invention, the term “polyurethanes” encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.
A first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound including at least one unit bearing an amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to a preferential embodiment, this compound includes two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.
As mentioned above, this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.
Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulae:
HZ-(P)n-ZH or HZ-(P’)p-ZH, in which Z, P, P’, n and p are as defined above.
Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.
The second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is as defined above.
By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.
A third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

This compound is constituted of a hydrophobic group and a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.
By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. When this compound includes a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, α-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.
The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound including at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
The cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.
The functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.
By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).
The hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Specifically, the units containing a quaternary or protonated amine function may suffice to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.
Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes including such a group are, however, preferred.
- (B’) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular:
- i) quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;
- ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;
- iii) the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):


in which:
- R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent an ammonium group -RaRbRcN+ Q-
in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a
5 linear or branched C1-C30, preferentially C1-C20, alkyl group, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q- represents an anionic counterion, such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; and
n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10 000.
The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses i) or hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) 10 preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Mention may also be made, as examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses bearing C8 to C30 fatty chains, of the product Quatrisoft LM 200® sold by the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical (I NCI name: Polyquaternium-24) and the products Crodacel QM® 15 (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) (I NCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS® (C18 alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride) sold by the company Croda.
Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R 20 represents a trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide; more preferentially, R represents trimethylammonium chloride -(CH3)3N+Cl- and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride -(CH3)2(C12H25)N+Cl-. This type of polymer is known under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL®, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical, having the I NCI name Polyquaternium-67.
25 More particularly, the polymers of formula (Ib) are those of which the viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive. Preferentially, the viscosity is between 2700 and 2800 cPs inclusive. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.
30 - (C) cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising:
- a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type;
39


- b) at least one monomer of structure (Ic) or (IIc) below:
in which:
X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical,
5 R1 and R6 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,
R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,
R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc):
(Y2)r—(CH2-CH(R7)-0)x—R8 (MIc)
10
in which:
- Y, Y1 and Y2 denote, independently of each other, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene
radical,
R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or 15 branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical,
R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical,
p, q and r denote, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1,
m and n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusive,
x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive,
20 Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate;
with the proviso that:
- at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 denotes a linear or branched C9-C30
alkyl radical,
25 - if m or n is other than zero, then q is equal to 1,
- if m or n is equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.
40

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked and may also be block polymers.
Preferably, the counterion Z- of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion and the tosylate ion.
5 Preferably, R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear
or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.
More preferentially, the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferentially, m and n are equal to 0.
The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

in which s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical and R10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, with the proviso that one at least of the radicals R9 and R10 denotes a hydrogen atom.
15 Even more preferentially, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.
The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic monomers.
As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least:
20 a) one monomer of formula (IVc),
b) one monomer of formula (Ic) in which p=1, q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of each
other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a linear or branched C9-C24
alkyl radical, and
c) one monomer of formula (IIc) in which R3 and R4 denote, independently of each other, a
25 hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.
Even more preferentially, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40% to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1% to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are notably described in patent application WO-00/68282.
As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, use is in particular made
30 of:
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethyl-methacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,
41

- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethyl-methacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethyl-methacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.
5 The
vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethylacrylamidopropyla mmonium chloride terpolymer is notably sold by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10® and Styleze W20L® (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55).
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is 10 preferably between 500 and 20 000 000, more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and preferentially between 400 000 and 800 000.
- (D’) the cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising
one or more vinyl monomers substituted with one or more amino groups, one or more
hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers and one or more associative vinyl monomers, such as
15 described in patent application WO 2004/024779.
Among these polymers, mention will more particularly be made of the products from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:
- a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,
- one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,
20 - a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide units),
- a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol allyl ether,
- a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and
- an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold by the company Lubrizol under the 25 name Carbopol Aqua CC® and which corresponds to the I NCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.
The nonionic associative polymers are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
(1) celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, notably C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl; preferably from:
30 - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, notably C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold notably under the reference Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company
35 Ashland,
42

- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenol ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
- and mixtures thereof.
5 (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, in particular
C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia;
(3) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, notably C8-C32
10 and better still C14-C28 alkyl. Examples that may be mentioned include:
- the vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer and notably the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 sold by the company ISP;
- the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer and notably the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 sold by the company ISP;
15 (4) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers
including at least one fatty chain, notably a C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl chain, for instance the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208.
(5) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers
20 including at least one fatty chain, notably a C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl chain, for
instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
(6) polyurethane polyethers including in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of
polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone
and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences;
25 (7) polymers comprising an aminoplast ether backbone having at least one fatty chain,
notably C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by the company Süd-Chemie.
Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers include at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic
chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the
30 hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the
hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The
35 hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer
bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.
43

The fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.
5 By extension, also included among the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers are
those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the
invention, use may also be made of Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by the
10 company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may
also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain, from Akzo. The product DW 1206B® from Röhm & Haas having a C20 alkyl chain and having a urethane bond, provided at a solids content of 20% in water, can also be used.
15 Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or
in an aqueous/alcoholic medium. Mention may be made, as examples of such polymers, of Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244, sold by the company Rheox. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Röhm & Haas.
20 The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular
those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380.389 (1993).
It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained
by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene
25 glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol,
and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company Röhm & Haas under the
names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol
having 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl
30 isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%);
Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol having 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
Preferably, the composition comprises one or more associative polymers.
35 Preferably, the composition comprises one or more anionic associative polymers,
preferentially chosen from copolymers including among their monomers (i) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, notably acrylic or methacrylic acid, and of fatty alcohol, notably C8-C32 fatty alcohol, which is oxyalkylenated,
44

notably comprising from 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 4 to 50, or even from 10 to 40 EO.
Preferably, the composition comprises one or more anionic associative polymers,
preferentially chosen from copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at
5 least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate
monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 100 mol EO, in particular from 4 to 50 EO, or even from 10 to 40 EO.
When present, the associative polymer(s) are present in the composition in a total content
preferably ranging from 0,01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0,05% to 5% by weight,
10 more preferentially from 0,1% to 1,5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
When present, the anionic associative polymer(s) are present in the composition in a total
content preferably ranging from 0,01% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0,05% to 5% by
weight, more preferentially from 0,1% to 1,5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
15 composition.
When present, the anionic associative polymer(s) chosen from copolymers comprising at
least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and
at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising from
2 to 100 mol EO, in particular from 4 to 50 EO, or even from 10 to 40 EO, are present in the
20 composition in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferentially
from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Alkaline agent
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more alkaline
25 agents.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.
For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” and “basifying agent” are used interchangeably.
The alkaline agent may be chosen from mineral, organic and hybrid alkaline agent.
30 The mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali
metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and mixtures
35 thereof.
The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
45

The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines
5 or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals
are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA),
diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-
dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-
10 methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol,
tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
15 The organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides
histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of carnosine, anserine and
20 balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine
function. As amines of this type other than arginine that may be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.
25 Hybrid compounds that may be used in particular include guanidine carbonate or
monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
The alkaline agent(s) that are useful according to the invention are preferably chosen from
alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium
hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium
30 (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as
sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide, better still from alkanolamines, even better still monoethanolamine.
According to a particular preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonium hydroxide.
35 The total content of the alkaline agent(s), when they are present, preferably ranges from
0,1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably of monoethanolamine, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from
46

1% to 30% by weight, better still from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a cosmetically acceptable
medium. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cosmetically acceptable
5 medium” is intended to mean a medium that is compatible with keratin fibers, in particular
human keratin fibers such as the hair.
The cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition in accordance with the present invention generally comprises water and/or one or more water-soluble organic solvents. Examples of water-soluble organic solvents that may be mentioned include C1-C4 lower
10 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or
phenoxyethanol; polyols or polyol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, or alternatively
15 glycerol; and also mixtures thereof.
The water content generally ranges from 10% to 99% by weight, preferably from 20% to 98% by weight and better still from 50% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
When they are present, the organic solvents are preferably present in an amount ranging
20 from 0.1% to 20% by weight approximately, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing
composition, and even more preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise additional compounds
conventionally used in cosmetics. These compounds may especially be chosen from
25 thickening or stabilizing polymers different from associative polymers previously described,
conditioning polymers different from amphoteric polymers previously described, especially cationic polymers, chelating agents and fragrances.
Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional
additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the
30 composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely
affected by the envisioned addition(s).
Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 8 and 13, more preferably between 9 and 12.
The pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or
35 alkaline agent(s) commonly used in the dyeing of keratin fibres, such as those described
hereinabove, or alternatively using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
The composition according to the invention may be in various forms, such as in the form of a cream, a gel or a mousse, or in any other form that is suitable for treating keratin materials, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.
47

The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fiber, such as hair, especially for dyeing and/or lightening hair, wherein a composition as described above, is applied to said keratin fibres.
Preferably, after an optional leave-on time, the composition is removed by rinsing.
5 The leave-on time of the composition on the hair may range from 1 minute to 60 minutes,
better still from 5 minutes to 45 minutes and even better still from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry hair.
Another subject of the invention is a product for dyeing human keratin fibers, such as the
hair, comprising :
10 A) a dye composition comprising one or more oxidation dye(s) as defined previously ;
B) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined
previously, preferably hydrogen peroxide ;
the dye composition and/or the oxidizing composition comprising one or more cationic
surfactant(s) of formula (I) as defined previously and the dye composition and/or the
15 oxidizing composition comprising one or more amphoteric polymer(s) as defined previously.
According to a preferred embodiment, the dye composition comprises one or more amphoteric polymer(s) and the oxidizing composition comprises one or more cationic surfactant(s) of formula (I).
Preferably, the content of oxidizing agent(s), preferably hydrogen peroxide, in the oxidizing
20 composition ranges preferably from 0,1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0,5% to 20% by
weight and more preferably 1% to 15% relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
The oxidizing composition may comprise water and/or one or more organic solvents as described previously.
Preferably, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7, more
25 preferably ranges from 1 to 5, even more preferably from 1,5 to 4.
The invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers comprising the mixing of the dye composition with the oxidation composition as defined above and applying the resulting mixture to the keratin fibers.
This mixing step is preferably performed at the moment of use, just before applying the
30 composition resulting from the mixing to the hair.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the amounts of dye composition and oxidizing composition ranges from 0.1 to 10 and preferably from 0.3 to 3.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
35 Example
Compositions
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Composition A according to the present invention and comparative compositions C1 to C3 were prepared using the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (amounts in g% of active material):

A C1 C2 C3
MINERAL OIL 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40
CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2,20 2,20 2,20 2,20
ACRYLATES/BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER 0,25 0,25 0,33 0,33
CARBOMER 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50
POLYQUATERNIUM-22 0,20 0,20 - -
BIS-(ISOSTEAROYL/OLEOYL ISOPROPYL) DIMONIUM METHOSULFATE 0,50 - 0,50 -
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 0,38 0,38 - -
SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE - - 0,70 0,70
BEHENETH-10 0,22 0,22 0,22 0,22
CETEARETH-60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL 0,015 0,015 0,015 0,015
CETEARETH-33 0,76 0,76 0,76 0,76
GLYCERIN 2,50 2,50 2,50 2,50
2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCl 0,18 0,18 0,18 0,18
p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE 0,88 0,88 0,88 0,88
N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXYETHYL)-p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0,09 0,09 0,09 0,09
RESORCINOL 0,76 0,76 0,76 0,76
m-AMINOPHENOL 0,21 0,21 0,21 0,21
ETHANOLAMINE 2,36 2,36 2,36 2,36
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
Stabilizing, chelating and reducing agents QS QS QS QS
FRAGRANCE QS QS QS QS
WATER qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
49

Each composition is applied to swatches of natural hair containing 90% of white hair in a proportion of 10 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
After a leave-on time of 30 minutes at 27°C, the hair is rinsed and dried.
5 The softness of hair is evaluated using the “bend compression method”.
The method uses rods to create a combination method which includes bend along
with compression of hair. The hair swatch travels through rods which are aligned. The
rods bend the hair swatch and compress it across the vertical plane. The force required
to bend and compress the hair swatch is measured. The lower the force required to bend
10 and compress the hair, the softer the hair.
In the present example, the swatches were passed through the rods at a speed of 100mm/min. The assessment was done 5 times per swatch. The force required to bend and compress the hair swatch was measured each time and the average force is indicated in the table below.
15 Results:

Force (gram-force) Average
A (invention) 14,65 +/- 0,35
C1 (comparative) 16,73 + /- 0,84
C2 (comparative) 21,42 +/-0,98
C3 (comparative) 18,97 +/- 0,25
Composition A makes it possible to significantly reduce the force required to bend and compress the hair swatch. We can conclude that composition A according to the invention improves the softness of the hair.
20 Moreover, composition A according to the invention leads to good dyeing properties.
The composition according to the invention improves the softness of the hair, while maintaining good dyeing properties.
50

I/We Claim:

1. Composition comprising:
a) one or more cationic surfactant of formula (I) :

(I)
5 wherein
R1 and R2, identical or different, are a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety
comprising 11 to 23 carbon atoms; and
X- is a cosmetically acceptable counterion ;
b) one or more amphoteric polymer(s) and
10 c) one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s) and/or one or more oxidation dye (s).
2. Composition as claimed in of claim 1, wherein R1 and R2 are a saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon moiety comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, in particular 15 to 19 carbon atoms,
and more particularly 17 carbon atoms.
3. Composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein R1 and R2, identical
15 or different, comprise at least one double bond (C=C), and in particular a single double
bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
4. Composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein R1 and R2 both represent an oleyl group or R1 represents a stearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.
5. Composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic
20 surfactant of formula (I) represents from 0,05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0,1% to 4%
by weight, more preferentially from 0,2% to 3% by weight, better still from 0,4% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric
polymer(s) is(are) chosen from copolymers comprising as monomers at least one monomer
25 derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group, preferably acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and at least one monomer of diallyldialkylammonium salt type, the alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric
polymer(s) are chosen from copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a
30 dialkyldiallylammonium salt, more preferably from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
51

8. Composition as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the amphoteric polymer(s) represent(s) from 0,01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0,05% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0,1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0,1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
5 9. Composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims comprising one or more chemical
oxidizing agent(s), the chemical oxidizing agent(s) being chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, such as, for example, persulfates or perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates, the chemical oxidizing agent preferably being hydrogen peroxide.
10 10. Composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more
chemical oxidizing agent(s) in an amount ranging from 0,1% to 50%, preferably from 0,5% to 30%, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more
15 oxidation dyes, preferably chosen from oxidation bases and oxidation couplers and mixtures
thereof.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least
one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant, preferably selected (C8-C20)alkylbetaines,
sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-
20 C6)alkylsulfobetaines, and preferably from (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylbetaines.
13. Composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it
comprises at least one fatty compound, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid
fatty substances, and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more
than 16 carbon atoms, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.
25 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least
one associative polymers, preferably chosen from anionic associative polymers, preferably chosen from acrylic anionic associative polymers, more especially from copolymers including among their monomers (i) an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, and (ii) an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, and of fatty alcohol which is
30 oxyalkylenated, even more preferably from copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic
acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 100 mol EO, in particular from 4 to 50 EO, or even from 10 to 40 EO.
15. Process for treating human keratin fibers, such as hair, wherein a composition as defined
35 in any one of claims 1 to 14 is applied to said keratin fibers.
16. Product for dyeing human keratin fibers, such as the hair, comprising :
A) a dye composition comprising one or more oxidation dye(s) ;
B) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents ;
the dye composition and/or the oxidizing composition comprising one or more cationic
52

surfactant(s) of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 and the dye composition and/or the oxidizing composition comprising one or more amphoteric polymer(s) as defined in any one of claims 6 or 7.
17. Product according to claim 16 wherein the dye composition comprises one or more
5 amphoteric polymer(s) and the oxidizing composition comprises one or more cationic
surfactant(s) of formula (I).
18. Process for dyeing human keratin fibers comprising the mixing of the dye composition
with the oxidation composition defined in claim 16 or 17 and applying the resulting mixture to
the human keratin fibers. [ |