FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR SILICONE EMULSION, A CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE, A SOLID FATTY ALCOHOL AND A CATIONIC SURFACTANT
2. Applicant(s)
NAME
NATIONALITY
ADDRESS
L'OREAL
French
14 Rue Royale 75008 PARIS, France
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed.
1
The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises a specific oil-in-water-type silicone emulsion, at least one cationic polysaccharide, at least one solid fatty 5 alcohol, and at least one cationic surfactant.
The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising the application onto the keratin fibres of a composition according to the invention.
It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as 10 shampoos and shower gels, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin materials especially such as the hair and the skin. These compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a toiletry flannel makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin. 15
These compositions contain substantial contents of "detergent" surfactants, which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic compositions with good washing power, must especially give them good foaming power.
The surfactants that are useful for this purpose are generally of anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type, and particularly of anionic type. 20
These compositions have generally a good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain fairly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the hair fibre, this damage being associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins 25 contained in or on the surface of this fibre.
Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly those which are to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which has been damaged or made brittle, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing 30 or bleaching), it is now common to introduce additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners into these compositions. These conditioners are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which the hair fibres are subjected more or less repeatedly. They may, of course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair. 35 2
The conditioners most commonly used to date in shampoos include cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives, which give softness and smoothness which are markedly better than that which can be obtained with corresponding cleaning compositions from which they are absent.
In particular, it is known to use a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer. 5 However, the compositions containing them still have numerous disadvantages, such as leading to an insufficient deposit of silicones on hair and impacting therefore strongly on their cosmetic properties and more particularly regarding the detangling of wet or dry hair.
Thus, there is a real need to provide compositions, such as cosmetic 10 compositions for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, that make it possible to overcome the drawbacks described above, i.e. which effectively remove dirt and excess sebum, particularly suitable for damaged hair, reduce hair frizz and enhance cosmetic properties of said fibres, such as softness, smoothness, manageability, and very particularly an ease of detangling and combing. 15 These cosmetic properties may also be long-lasting.
These objectives are achieved with the present invention, a subject-matter of which is a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising:
a)
an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising: 20
•
a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, 25
•
a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
•
water;
b)
at least one cationic polysaccharide; 30
c)
at least one cationic surfactant; and
d)
at least one solid fatty alcohol, preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
3
It has been noted that the composition according to the invention, when applied onto keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, leads to an improvement of the condition and quality of hair, in terms of hair feel (e.g. smooth feel, soft feel, conditioned feel, not greasy, not charged) and hair manageability (e.g., combing, detangling, desirable volume, suppleness, less frizz). 5
Particularly, it has been observed that the keratin fibres, in particular the hair (wet or dry), treated with the composition according to the invention are easier to detangle and more manageable.
In addition, the composition according to the invention has a good detergent power and the keratin fibres, in particular the hair, treated with the composition 10 according to the invention are particularly clean and light.
The observed properties of the composition according to the invention are particularly long-lasting.
The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibres, in 15 particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising the application onto the keratin fibres of a composition according to the invention.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will 20 emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:
- the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be replaced therewith;
- the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and 25 can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;
- for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and respectively the expression “less than” are intended to mean an open range which is strictly greater, respectively strictly less, and therefore that the limits are not included;
- According to the present application, the term “keratin fibres” preferably 30 denotes human keratin fibres such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and body hair, preferentially hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferentially hair;
- for the purposes of the present invention, “hair” means the hair of the scalp. This term does not correspond to the body hairs other than those on the scalp, eyebrows or eyelashes. 35 4
- for the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty substance” is intended to mean a non-oxyalkylenated organic compound, that is insoluble in water at 30°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013×105 Pa), that is to say it has a solubility of less than or equal to 5% (g of compound per mL of water) and preferably less than or equal to 1%, even more preferentially less than equal to 0.1%. 5 For example, fatty acids and fatty alcohols are, for the purposes of the present invention, fatty substances.
The specific oil-in-water emulsion
The composition according to the present invention comprises an oil-in-water 10 (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and containing:
-
a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 15 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
-
a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
-
water. 20
In the oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the silicone mixture, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase. 25
(i) trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes
The silicone mixture comprises a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane that is preferably of formula (A):
R’3SiO(R’2SiO)pSiR’3 (A) 30
wherein:
- R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl, and
- p is an integer of from 500 to 2,000, preferably of from 1,000 to 2,000.; 35 5
The trialkylsilyl terminated (or end-blocked or α,ω-position) dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention have a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded) at 25°C, preferably a viscosity of from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, more preferably a viscosity of from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s 5 at 25°C.
The trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention are preferably linear but may contain additionally to the R’2SiO2/2 units (D-units) in formula (A), RSiO3/2 units (T-units) and/or SiO4/2 units (Q-units), wherein R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. 10
Preferably, R’, same or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C1-C18 alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, 15 nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and ally radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; 20 alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and the b-phenylethyl radical. Most preferred is the methyl radical.
Preferably, the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes are trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones). 25
(ii) amino silicones
The silicone mixture comprises an amino silicone that are preferably of formula (B):
XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (B) 30
wherein:
- R, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and even better methyl; 6
- X, same or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C1-C6-alkoxy group; preferably X is R, i.e. a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and even better methyl;
- A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated 5 amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2, same or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4-alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, R3 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2-, and x is 0 or 1;
and 10
- m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600.
Preferably, A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2-, and x is 1. 15
Preferably, R, same or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C1-C28 alkyl radicals, more preferentially C1-C18 alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, 20 such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and ally radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, 25 anthryl and phenanthryl radical; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and the b-phenylethyl radical. Most preferred is the methyl radical.
The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C, preferably of from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s. 30
The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably of from 3.5 to 8 mg.
The mole percent of amine functionality is preferably in the range of from about 0.3% to about 8%. 7
Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone mixture according to the invention include trialkylsilyl terminated amino silicone.
Most preferably, amino silicones are trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane, most preferably trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane copolymers. The amino 5 radical A can be protonated partially or fully by adding acids to the amino silicone, wherein the salt forms of the amino radical are obtained. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of from 0.1 to 2.0 mol 10 per 1 mol of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (B).
The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in a quantity of from 70 to 90% by weight, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a quantity of from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.
- mixture of emulsifiers 20
The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises a mixture of emulsifiers that comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers. It could optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
The mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value from 10 to 16.
25
The nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen among the nonionic surfactants as described hereunder.
Mention may be made of alcohols, α-diols and (C1-20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 30 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 35 8
ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils, 5 N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula:
R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v 10
in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms; 15
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula 20 described above in which:
- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0, 25
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type 30 and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 35 9
2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.
The nonionic emulsifiers could preferably be chosen among ethoxylated 5 aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylene surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, sorbitol ester and their ethoxylated derivatives, glycol esters of fatty acids, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, polyoxyethylene fatty acid amides.
Preferably, nonionic emulsifiers are selected from: 10
(i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, especially (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:
R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH
with:
- R3 representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, 15 preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and
- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferentially between 2 and 150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols 20 comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE);
(ii) polyoxyalkylene (C8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers,
(iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan (C8-C32) fatty acid esters, especially polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 25 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan (C10-C24) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and
(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C8-C32) fatty acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C10-C24) fatty 30 acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.
Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers could be selected from alkyl ether of polyalkyleneglycol and alkyl esters of polyalkyleneglycol; preferably of polyethyleneglycol (PEG).
Some useful emulsifiers are: 35 10
- polyethyleneglycol octyl ether; polyethyleneglycol lauryl ether; polyethyleneglycol tridecyl ether; polyethyleneglycol cetyl ether; polyethyleneglycol stearyl ether; among these, mention may be made more particularly of trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6.
- polyethyleneglycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol dodecylphenyl 5 ether; polyethyleneglycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol stearylphenyl ether;
- polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monooleate.
- polyethyleneglycol stearate, and especially PEG-100 stearate.
Most preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are chosen among steareth-6, PEG-10 100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and their mixture; preferably, all these emulsifiers are present in the mixture of emulsifiers.
The mixture of emulsifiers could comprise one or more cationic emulsifiers that could be selected among tetraalkylammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylarylammonium halides, and their salts; quaternary ammonium 15 compounds including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be chosen among cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as chloride.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably of from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of 20 the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably of from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, when 25 present, in a total amount of from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total amount of from 40 to 60% by weight, more preferably of from 45 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. 30
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of from 35 to 45% by weight, more preferably of from 38-42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. 11
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably of from 8-12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion comprises water preferably in an amount of from 25 to 50% by weight, more preferably of from 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably 5 of from 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion could additionally comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, that could be present in the emulsion in a quantity of from 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
A method of preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises: 10
- a step of mixing one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes of viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and one or more amino silicones of viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of from 15°C to 40°C, preferably at 25°C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid, then 15
- a step of adding a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value from 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a silicone-emulsifier-mixture, then
- a step of homogenizing the silicone-emulsifier-mixture followed by
- a step of adding, preferably step-wise, water, preferably demineralized 20 water, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm.
The method of preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion could further comprise an additional step of adding a biocide. Biocide could be added for preserving the emulsion against microbial contamination. The biocide could be added at the level of for preserving emulsion against microbial contamination and obtaining the said 25 emulsion. The quantity of the biocide depends on the type of biocide and as recommended by the manufacturer.
The preparation of the mixture of emulsifiers could be made by mixing one or more nonionic emulsifiers.
The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e. after addition of 30 the biocide) is preferably of from 4 to 6.
The oil-in-water emulsion has D50 particle size of less than 350 nm, preferably from 100 nm to 300 nm, more preferably from 150 nm to 250 nm, even more preferentially from 150 nm to 225 nm, and most preferably from 160 nm to 200 nm. It corresponds to the average hydrodynamic particle diameter. The D50 particle 35 12
size is expressed in volume. The D50 particle size could be measured by using a device ZetaSizer from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method.
- Particle size measurement 5
Emulsion particle size could be measured by using a device ZetaSizer from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method. The D50 value of particle size (average hydrodynamic particle diameter) is measured, wherein the evaluating algorithm is “cumulants analysis”.
For example, take 0.5 g of the emulsion sample in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of 10 demineralized water is poured into it and then mixed properly to get the sample test solution. The sample test solution is poured in the cuvette cell and is put into the slot of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the value of the particle diameter at 50% in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50=170 nm, then 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170 nm, and 50% 15 smaller than 170 nm or about 50% by volume of all droplets in said emulsion is 170 nm.
- Viscosity measurement
The viscosity, especially of the silicones or of the emulsion, is measured at 20 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
For viscosities between 1000 to 40,000 mPa.s at 25ºC: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar Rheometer; model MCR101, geometry single gap cylinder: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
For viscosities between 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s at 25ºC: the viscosity could 25 be measured with an Anton Paar Rheometer; model MCR101, 25-6 cone (Cone-plate geometry: 25 mm dia. / 6° cone); the “Zero gap” setting being made and with a shear rate of 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
Three measurements are made for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. MCR Rheometer Series products work as per USP (US Pharmacopeia 30 Convention) 912 – Rotational Rheometer methods.
- Amine value measurement
The amine value is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Make: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. 0.6 g of sample is taken in a 500 ml beaker and a 35 13
toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture is added and stirred to mix the sample thoroughly; then the sample solution is titrated with a 0.1(N) HCl solution. A determination of the blank value with the toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture is also done. The calculation of the amine value is done by the above-mentioned potentiometer.
The amine value is calculated according to the formula: 5
56.11 × (V - VBlank) × N / W mg KOH/ g of sample,
Wherein
V= Volume of HCl required in ml, VBlank= Volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with the toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture in ml; N= Normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1 N, W= weight of the sample taken in gram. 10
- HLB Value
The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, HLB values refer to the values at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure. 15
The HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.
Calculation of HLB value of nonionic surfactant is calculated according to the equation: HLB = (E + P)/5, with E being the weight percentage of oxyethylene content and P being the weight percentage of polyhydric alcohol content, described in to the 20 publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, n°4), pp.249-256.
It can also experimentally be determined according to the book of F. Puisieux and M. Seiller, entitled "Galenica 5: Les systèmes disperses - Tome I - Agents de surface et émulsions - Chapitre IV - Notions de HLB et de HLB critique, pp.153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Determination de HLB par voie experimentale [Experimental 25 determination of HLB], pp.164-180".
The calculated HLB is the preferred HLB values that should be taken into account.
Said calculated HLB could be defined as being the following:
“calculated HLB = 20 × molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass.” 30
For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units condensed onto the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “Griffin HLB” as defined hereabove.
For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s). 35 14
For ionic surfactants/emulsifiers, the HLB value of individual surfactant/emulsifier can be calculated applying the Davies formula as described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent", Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity): 426-438. 5
According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution afforded by the structural components of the emulsifier:
HLB = (hydrophilic groups numbers) – n(group number per CH2 group) +7.
Approximate HLB values for some cationic emulsifiers are given in Table IV, 10 in “Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics”, GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pp17-27.
When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are blended for use, the HLBMix is said to be the required HLB for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation (WAHLBA + WBHLBB)/ (WA + WB) = HLBMix, where WA = the amount 15 (weight) of the first emulsifier (A) used, and WB = the amount (weight) of the second emulsifier (B); HLBA, HLBB = the assigned HLB values for emulsifiers A and B; HLBMix = the HLB of the mixture.
Said oil-in-water emulsion is for example described in WO 2017/108824.
20
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the oil-in-water emulsion a) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 % to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better from 0.5% to 8%, even better from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 25
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 % to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, better from 0.7 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the 30 composition.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, even more 35 15
preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cationic polysaccharides
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic 5 polysaccharide.
According to the present invention, the term "cationic polysaccharide" means any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups. 10
These cationic polysaccharides according to the invention are non-silicone cationic polysaccharides. In other word, the cationic polysaccharides according to the invention do not contain any silicon (Si) atom.
Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives 15 comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the 20 polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Dow chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. The polyquaternium-10 is, for example, one of these 25 polymers.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with 30 a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch. 16
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably C1-C6 trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride). Such products are 5 especially sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from 10 cationic galactomannan gums.
Preferentially, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums modified or not comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. 15
Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt and/or at least one guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt, in particular at least one hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and/or at least one guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. 20
Preferably, the total amount of cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 25
Preferably, the total amount of cationic galactomannan gum(s) ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of guar gum(s) comprising cationic 30 trialkylammonium groups ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 17
Preferably, the total amount of hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt(s), guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt(s), or mixture thereof ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5
Cationic surfactants
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant. 10
According to the invention, the cationic surfactants c) are different from the cationic polysaccharides b).
The cationic surfactants may be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and 15 mixtures thereof.
As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made especially of:
- the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Ia):
in which: 20
the groups R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 containing from 8 to 30 and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it is possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise one or more heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and 25 halogens; and
- X- is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;
30
NR9R8R11 R10X+(Ia)
18
The aliphatic groups R8 to R11 may be chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.
Mention may be made especially of tetraalkylammonium halides, especially 5 chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.
Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or 10 stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halides, and especially chlorides; especially the product sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (IIa): 15
in which
R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl 20 group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group,
X- is an anion chosen especially from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-25 C4)alkylarylsulfonates;
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik. 30
NNR13CH2CH2R14N(R15)COR12 X+(IIa)
19
- the quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (IIIa):
in which:
- R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which
5 is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen
atoms,
- R17 denotes hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a and R18a, which may be identical or
different, denoting hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
10 - R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen
or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
- X- is an anion, chosen especially from the group of the halides, acetates,
phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates and (C1-
C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
15 Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and
Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), sold by the company Finetex;
- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of
formula (IVa) below:
20
in
which:
- R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl
groups,
25 - R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27; and a hydrogen atom,
- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29; and a hydrogen atom,
R16 N (CH2)3
R17
R18
N R21
R19
R20
2+
2X-
(IIIa)
N
R22
CrHr2(OH)r1 C O
O
R24 y
O Rx 23
R25
X
+
(CsH2sO)z
CtHt2 (OH)t1 (IVa)
20
- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
- r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,
- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, 5
- x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
- X- is an anion,
it being understood that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15,
with the proviso that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 10 then R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. 15
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or else may comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms. 20
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. 25
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, a (C1-C4)alkylsulfonate or a (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonate, a 30 methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function. The anion X- is more particularly a chloride, a methyl sulfate or an ethyl sulfate.
35 21
Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which:
- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
- x and y are equal to 1,
- z is equal to 0 or 1, 5
- r, s and t are equal to 2,
- R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and a hydrogen atom,
- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom,
- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear 10 or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
15
In another embodiment, use is also more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IVa) in which: R22=R25=methyl, R23 is R26-C(=O)-, R24 et R26 = C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and x = y =1, z=0, and t=r=3, t2=r2=6, t1=r1=0.
20
Among the compounds of formula (IVa), mention may be made of the salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxy-ethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably 25 contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or 30 alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures especially of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, 35 22
methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Evonik.
5
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 10 for example, sold by the company Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Cationizable surfactants that may be used, may be chosen from fatty alkylamines, such as fatty dialkylamines. Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamide, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl 15 palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
Fatty dialkylamines are preferably fatty amidoamine compounds, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl 20 dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, 25 arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, and palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines. In some cases, the one or more non-polymeric, 30 mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid. Non-limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, or mixtures thereof. 35 23
In particular, lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from quaternary ammonium 5 salts of formula (Ia) and of formula (IVa) as described previously, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the cationic surfactants are chosen from those of formula (C) below:
(C) 10
wherein:
-
R1 and R2 are independently a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising from 11 to 23 carbon atoms;
-
X- is an anion chosen especially from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-15 C4)alkylarylsulfonates, preferably methosulfate.
By unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety is meant that the hydrocarbon radical comprises at least one carbon-carbon double bond (C=C) and/or at least one carbon- carbon triple bond. It can of course include several double and/or triple carbon-carbon 20 bonds.
Preferably, R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, especially 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and especially 17 to 18 carbon atoms. When unsaturated, preferably R1 comprises at least one double bond (C=C), and in particular a single double bond, two 25 double bonds or three double bonds.
Preferably, R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising 13 to 21 carbon atoms, especially 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and especially 17 to 18 carbon atoms. When unsaturated, preferably, R2
24
comprises at least one double bond (C=C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds or three double bonds.
Preferably, R1 and R2 comprise the same number of carbon atoms. Preferably, R2 represents an oleyl group. Preferably, R1 represents an oleyl or stearyl or isostearyl group. When unsaturated, preferably R1 comprises at least one double 5 bond (C=C), and in particular a single double bond, two double bonds, or three double bonds.
According to preferred embodiment, R1 represents a stearyl group or an isostearyl group and R2 represents an oleyl group.
Such cationic surfactants are in particular described in US 6,653,275, US 10 20140286889, and EP 0 240 727.
A preferred cationic surfactant is salt of bis-(isostearoyl/oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium, especially methosulfate or chloride of bis-(isostearoyl/oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium.
15
Preferably, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of quaternary ammonium salt(s) chosen from 20 those of formula (Ia), those of formula (IVa), those of formula (C), and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (C) ranges 25 from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of bis-(isostearoyl/oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium salt(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by 30 weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of cationic surfactant(s) c) to the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1; more 35 25
preferentially ranges from 1 to 10; even more preferentially ranges from 1.1 to 8; better ranges from 1.5 to 6; even better ranges from 2 to 5.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from those of formula (Ia), those of formula (IVa), those of formula (C), and mixtures thereof, to the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is greater than 5 or equal to 1; more preferentially ranges from 1 to 10; even more preferentially ranges from 1.1 to 8; better ranges from 1.5 to 6; even better ranges from 2 to 5.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (C) to the total content of the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) is greater than or equal to 1; more preferentially ranges from 1 to 10; even more preferentially ranges 10 from 1.1 to 8; better ranges from 1.5 to 6; even better ranges from 2 to 5.
The solid fatty alcohols
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol, preferably containing from 8 to 40, more preferably from 10 to 30, even more 15 preferentially from 12 to 24, still better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
According to the present invention, by “fatty alcohol preferably containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms” is meant a non-oxyalkylenated and non-glycerolated alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, hydrocarbon-based chain preferably comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms. By 20 hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon structure composed solely of carbon atoms and hydrogen.
The fatty alcohol according to the invention are non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated; more particularly non-glycerolated, non-oxyethylenated and non-oxypropylenated. 25
By “solid fatty alcohol” is meant a fatty alcohol having a melting point greater than 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The 30 melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013x105 Pa). 26
The solid fatty alcohols could be saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, and preferably comprise from 8 to 40, more preferably from 10 to 30, even more preferentially from 12 to 24, still better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols according to the invention are solid 5 fatty monoalcohols.
The solid saturated fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably linear. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. 10
More particularly, the solid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from solid fatty alcohols containing from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. 15
More preferentially, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from saturated and linear solid fatty alcohols, preferably saturated and linear solid fatty monoalcohols, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. 20
Even more preferentially, the fatty alcohols are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
According to a most preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
25
Preferably, the total amount of solid fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of saturated and linear solid fatty alcohol(s) 30 containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 27
Preferably, the total amount of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5
The anionic surfactants
Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or 10 ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge. 15
The anionic surfactants that may be used are for example chosen from carboxylate anionic surfactants, sulfonate anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; more particularly from sulfate anionic surfactants.
It is understood in the present description that:
- carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or 20 carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and 25
- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl 30 ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds.
The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 28, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. 35 28
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts 5 and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-10 methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
15
More preferentially, the anionic surfactants are selected from the anionic surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, and better still from C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts, and in particular lauryl ether sulfate salts.
The anionic surfactants suitable in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units. 20
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 30%, more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, even better from 10 to 15% by weight, 25 relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from those of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, the one or more surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more 30 preferentially is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, even better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts, the one or more C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts are present 35 29
in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, even better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from lauryl 5 ether sulfate salts, the one or more lauryl ether sulfate salts are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, even better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total amount of anionic surfactant(s), in particular of surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, particularly of C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts and even more particularly of lauryl ether sulfate salts, is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 15 5% to 20% by weight, better greater than or equal to 7% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and even better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants 20
Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain 25 containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is(are) chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 30 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamido-propylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the total amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.01% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20%, even more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even better from 1% to 10% by weight,
30
and still better from 1.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants. 5
More preferably, the composition comprises:
- one or more anionic surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts such as lauryl ether sulfate salts, and
- one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such 10 as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the total amount of anionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (cumulative) may range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, 15 better from 5% to 22% by weight, and even better from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one thickening polymer. 20
According to the present invention, the term "thickening polymers" means polymers which, by their presence at a concentration of 0.05% by weight, increase the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps (20 mPa.s), preferably by at least 50 cps (50 mPa.s), at room temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s-1 (the viscosity may be measured 25 using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).
According to the invention, the thickening polymers that may be used are different from the cationic polysaccharides b) and quaternary ammonium salts c).
The thickening polymer(s) that may be used in the process according to the invention are preferentially chosen from non-associative thickening polymers without 30 sugar units, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms. 35 31
Even more preferentially, the thickening polymers are chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers. Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, for instance the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M 5 and Synthalen K by the company 3 VSA. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.
Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one thickening polymer, the total amount of thickening polymer(s) ranges from 0.01% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015% to 2% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.02% to 10 1% by weight, better from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer, the total amount of crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer(s) ranges from 0.01% to 3% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015% to 2% by 15 weight, even more preferentially from 0.02% to 1% by weight, better from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention may further comprise 20 at least one polyol.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” is intended to mean an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or 25 acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
According to the invention, the polyol that may be used are different from fatty alcohols d).
More particularly, the polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferentially from 2 to 10 hydroxyl 30 groups and even more preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
The polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention generally comprise at least three carbon atoms. More preferentially, the polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention comprise no more than 8 carbon atoms. 32
Preferably, said polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol, and are preferably chosen from 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, and a mixture of these compounds. 5
Most particularly preferably, the polyol(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from glycerol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or a mixture of these compounds, and preferably the polyol is hexylene glycol, glycerin or a mixture of these compounds.
Preferably, the polyol(s) represent from 0.01% to 5% by weight, better still 10 from 0.1% to 3% by weight and more preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water.
Water advantageously represents from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 92% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 90% by weight and 15 better from 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 4 and 9, preferably between 4,5 and 8, better still between 5 and 7.
The pH of the composition according to the invention may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetic 20 compositions, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.
Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid, or organic acids, for instance compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a 25 sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.
The basifying agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid.
The mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or 30 mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss 35 33
and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreen agents, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives and pigments.
Those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the composition according 5 to the invention.
These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition; more preferably a hair composition such as a hair composition for cleansing and/or conditioning hair.
More preferentially, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo, a conditioner or a hair mask. 15
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a cream-like texture.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: 20
- an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
•
a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 25 from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
•
a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and 30
•
water;
- at least one cationic polysaccharide from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; 34
-
at least one cationic surfactant chosen from quaternary ammonium salts chosen from those of formula (Ia), those of formula (IVa), those of formula (C), and mixtures thereof, as defined above; and
-
at least one solid fatty alcohol chosen from saturated and linear solid fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 5 30 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 12 to 24, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: 10
- an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
•
a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 15 from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
•
a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
•
water; 20
- at least one cationic polysaccharide from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof;
-
at least one cationic surfactant of formula (C) as defined above; and
-
at least one solid fatty alcohol chosen from saturated and linear solid fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 25 30 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 12 to 24, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms;
- at least one anionic surfactant of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salt such as lauryl ether sulfate salt;
- at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant chosen from (C8-C20 30 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamido-propylbetaine, and mixtures thereof; and
- optionally at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers. 35 35
The present invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one step of application onto the keratin fibres of a composition as described above. 5
Preferably, the keratin fibres are rinsed after the application onto the keratin fibres of the composition according to the invention.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, after the step of application, the composition according to the invention is removed after an optional leave-on time. The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range 10 from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres; preferably on wet keratin fibres.
Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described 15 above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
In the above description, all the preferred embodiments with regard to the components may be used individually or in combination.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention. 20 36
Examples:
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are given as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
5
Example 1: Preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion
450 g of amino silicone fluid (trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane copolymer with amine value of 7.2 mg of KOH/g sample, and a viscosity of 5,600 mPa.s at 25°C) were introduced in an emulsion tank. Stirring was started and 1,800 g of trimethylsilyl terminated 10 dimethylsiloxane polymer fluid of viscosity 61,500 mPa.s at 25°C were introduced under stirring in the same tank. Both fluids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.
In a separate tank, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG-100 stearate were introduced and heated to 60°C. The temperature was maintained till both emulsifiers 15 became liquid. Then 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active material) were added. These nonionic emulsifiers mixture had an HLB value = 11.25.
Then 80 g water and 6.2 g glacial acetic acid were added to the tank and the mixing started. The mixing was continued till whole mass became a creamy paste. The 20 whole paste was introduced in the emulsion tank. Homogenization was carried out for 30 minutes at room temperature. 79.6 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 60 minutes. 72.7 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 50 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 294.3 g 25 demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenize 30 for 3 minutes. 228.5 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes. Lastly 40.5 g 2-phenoxyethanol were added as a biocide and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes. A stable oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of 170 nm was obtained.
35 37
Example 2:
The following composition A according to the invention and the comparative compositions B and C were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (wt. % of active material – AM).
5
Table 1:
Ingredients
A
(Invention)
B
(Comparative)
C
(Comparative)
Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3
(of example 1)
2 % of emulsion
(i.e. 0.2% AM of amodimethicone + 0.8% AM of dimethicone)
2 % of emulsion
(i.e. 0.2% AM of amodimethicone + 0.8% AM of dimethicone)
2 % of emulsion
(i.e. 0.2% AM of amodimethicone + 0.8% AM of dimethicone) Hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.3 - 0.3 Bis-(Isostearoyl/oleoylisopropyl) dimonium methosulfate 1 1 -
Cetearyl alcohol
1
1
1
Sodium laureth sulfate
13.9
13.9
13.9
Coco-betaine and Cocamidopropyl betaine
1.8
1.8
1.8
Carbomer
0.2
0.2
0.2
Glycerin
0.5
0.5
0.5
Hexylene glycol
0.5
0.5
0.5
Glycol distearate
1.6
1.6
1.6
Sodium chloride
0.35
0.35
0.35
Preservatives
Qs
Qs
Qs
Water
Qs 100
Qs 100
Qs 100 38
Protocol:
The hair locks were shampooed, rinsed with water and placed on a hot plate (30°C).
Then 1.2g of the compositions A, B or C were respectively applied to a lock of hair (3g, 20cm, medium bleached hair, from the roots to the ends). The locks were 5 gently massaged by passing each lock about six times between two fingers for fifteen seconds, from the roots to the ends (without creating knots) so as to lather the compositions.
The locks were then rinsed under tap water, and the fingers were run through the hair fifteen times for ten seconds. 10
Each lock was then finally passed between two fingers to remove excess water (2 passages).
Each wet hair lock was placed on a combing machine (Diastron MTT 175 by Dia-Stron Limited UK) and a comb with a sensor was put into the hair fibers. 15
Combing was performed by scanning the hair lock from root to tip, and registered the force needed to move the comb along the lock.
3 hair locks were treated with each composition A, B or C, and the measurements of the force were performed 5 times per treated hair lock.
In total, the measurements were therefore performed 15 times per composition 20 to be tested.
The average maximum force was calculated from the 15 measured data of the 3 hair locks treated with each composition. The average maximum force was calculated in gram-force (gf): 1 gf corresponds to about 0.0098 Newton.
The lower the force, the easier the keratin fibers are to comb / detangle. 25
The same protocol was repeated with the same locks, once completely dry.
Conditions of the test: 23°C, 54% humidity
Combing speed = 1 500 mm/minute 30
The results are shown in the tables 2 (dry combing) and 3 (wet combing) below.
35 39
Table 2: Dry combing (average value of the 15 measurements)
Compositions
Maximum forces (in gf)
A
(Invention)
43.5 ± 6.2
B
(Comparative)
54.1 ± 6.2
C
(Comparative)
87.2 ± 13.8
Table 3: Wet combing (average value of the 15 measurements)
Compositions
Maximum forces (in gf)
A
(Invention)
96.5 ± 8.3
B
(Comparative)
123.3 ± 8.3
C
(Comparative)
126.1 ± 11.2
It is observed that the hair locks treated with the composition A according to 5 the invention comprising the combination of one cationic polysaccharide with one cationic surfactant are much easier to comb (in wet and dry conditions), in comparison with the hair locks treated with the comparative compositions B and C with do not comprise the combination of one cationic polysaccharide with one cationic surfactant.
These tests demonstrate the effect on hair detangling of the specific 10 combination of a cationic polysaccharide with a cationic surfactant.
In addition, it has been noted that the hair locks treated with the composition A according to the invention are smoother, softer, less frizz and with more manageability, than the hair locks treated with the comparative compositions B and C.
I/We Claim:
1. Composition comprising:
a) an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350
nm and comprising:
• a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
• a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
• water;

b) at least one cationic polysaccharide;
c) at least one cationic surfactant; and
d) at least one solid fatty alcohol.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the trialkylsilyl
terminated dialkylpolysiloxane (i) is of formula (A):
R’3SiO(R’2SiO)pSiR’3 (A)
wherein:
- R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and
- p is an integer of from 500 to 2 000, preferably of from 1 000 to 2 000; and preferably is trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
amino silicone (ii) is of formula (B):
XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (B)
wherein:
- R, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28
carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

- X, same or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C1-C6-alkoxy group; preferably
X is R,
- A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated
amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical,
preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; R2, same
or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4-alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen
atom; R3 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2-
, and x is 0 or 1;
and
- m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600;
and preferably A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2-, and x is 1.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers of said oil-in-water emulsion a) comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers chosen from:
(i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, especially (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:
R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH
with:
- R3 representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and
- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferentially between 2 and 150;
and more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE);
(ii) polyoxyalkylene (C8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers;
(iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan (C8-C32) fatty acid esters, especially polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan (C10-C24) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and;

(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C8-C32) fatty acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C10-C24) fatty acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said oil-in-water emulsion a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 12% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polysaccharide(s) b) are chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums modified or not comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof; and even better from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of cationic polysaccharide(s) b) ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015% to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.02% to 3% by weight, better from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic surfactant(s) c) are chosen from:
* quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Ia) below:


(Ia)
in which: - the groups R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 12 to 24, carbon atoms; it is possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens; and

- X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates; preferably methosulfate;
* quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, of formula (IVa) below:
in
which:
- R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl
groups,
- R23 is chosen from the group R26-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27; and a hydrogen atom,
- R25 is chosen from the group R28-C(=O)-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups R29; and a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
- r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1,
- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
- x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
- X- is an anion,
it being understood that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15,
with the proviso that when x = 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z = 0 then R25 denotes R29; * and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic surfactant(s) c) are chosen from those of formula (C) below:


wherein:
- R1 and R2 are independently a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon moiety comprising from 11 to 23 carbon atoms;
- X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates; preferably methosulfate.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) c) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the solid fatty alcohol(s) d) contains from 8 to 40, in particular from 10 to 30, more particularly from 12 to 24, better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms; more preferentially are saturated and linear solid fatty alcohols; even more preferentially are saturated and linear solid fatty monoalcohols, and even better are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of solid fatty alcohol(s) d) ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one anionic surfactant; preferably chosen from anionic surfactants

of alkyl(ether) sulfate type; preferably from C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts; even better from lauryl ether sulfate salts.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; preferably chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof.
15. Method for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising at least the application onto the keratin fibres of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.