FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: A COMPOSITION FOR DYEING /LIGHTENING OF KERATIN FIBRES
2. Applicant(s)
NAME
NATIONALITY
ADDRESS
L'OREAL
French
14, rue Royale 75008 PARIS, France
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed.
1
FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001]
The present disclosure relates, in general, to personal care products, and more particularly, to compositions and methods for dyeing/lightening of keratin fibres. 5
BACKGROUND OF INVENTION
[0002]
The dyeing of keratin fibres, such as human hair, permanently via oxidation dyeing is a known practice that is widely used by consumers. This dyeing technique consists of applying to the keratin fibres a composition containing dye precursors such as oxidation bases and couplers. These dye precursors are 10 colourless or weakly coloured compounds. When combined with an oxidizing agent, they give rise, by a process of oxidative condensation, to coloured compounds.
[0003]
Oxidation dyeing is generally implemented at an alkaline pH, which produces a dyeing, and at the same time a lightening of the keratin fibre. The 15 lightening of the fibre has the advantageous effect of emphasizing the colour i.e., making it more visible in the case of naturally pigmented hair. In the case of depigmented hair, it helps in bringing a unified colour prior to the dyeing effect.
[0004]
Compositions that impart a uniform, deep colour with a long-lasting effect are generally preferred by consumers. Also increasingly preferred among 20 consumers are compositions that include more natural ingredients or naturally derived ingredients, with fewer compounds of petrochemical origin, that are more environmentally friendly.
[0005]
Thus, there is a need for composition for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres that incorporate the benefits of superior performance especially 25 dyeing and/or lightening effect, colour uptake and intensity, and lastingness, along with eco-friendly and/or natural ingredients.
2
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0006]
In an aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a composition comprising at least one non-oxyalkylenated surfactant; at least one fatty compound; and at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidative dye, 5 wherein weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is at least 3:1.
[0007]
In an aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a kit comprising a composition (A) comprising at least one non-oxyalkylenated surfactant; at least one fatty compound; and at least one alkaline agent and/or at 10 least one oxidative dye, wherein weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is at least 3:1; and (b) a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent, a mixture of composition (A) and composition (B) resulting in a ready to use composition.
[0008]
In another aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided a 15 method for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair, comprising mixing a composition (A) comprising at least one non-oxyalkylenated surfactant; at least one fatty compound; and at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidative dye, wherein weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is at least 3:1, and a 20 composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent to obtain a mixture; and applying the mixture on said fibres.
[0009] In a further aspect of the present disclosure, there is provided use of a composition comprising at least one non-oxyalkylenated surfactant; at least one fatty compound; and at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidative dye, 25 wherein weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is at least 3:1 or a kit comprising a composition (A) comprising at least one non-oxyalkylenated surfactant; at least one fatty compound; and at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidative dye, wherein weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total 30 amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is at least 3:1; and a composition (B) 3
comprising at least one oxidizing agent, a mixture of composition (A) and
composition (B) resulting in a ready to use composition, for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, such as hair
[0010]
These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present subject matter will be better understood with reference to the following description 5 and appended claims. This summary is provided to introduce a selection of concepts in a simplified form. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter, nor is it intended to be used to limit the scope of the claimed subject matter.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION 10
[0011]
Those skilled in the art will be aware that the present disclosure is subject to variations and modifications other than those specifically described. It is to be understood that the present disclosure includes all such variations and modifications. The disclosure also includes all such steps, features, compositions, and compounds referred to or indicated in this specification, individually or 15 collectively, and any and all combinations of any or more of such steps or features.
Definitions
[0012] For convenience, before further description of the present disclosure, certain terms employed in the specification, and examples are delineated here. These definitions should be read in the light of the remainder of the disclosure 20 and understood as by a person of skill in the art. The terms used herein have the meanings recognized and known to those of skill in the art, however, for convenience and completeness, particular terms and their meanings are set forth below.
[0013] The articles “a”, “an” and “the” are used to refer to one or to more 25 than one (i.e., to at least one) of the grammatical object of the article.
[0014] The terms “comprise” and “comprising” are used in the inclusive, open sense, meaning that additional elements may be included. It is not intended to be construed as “consists of only”.
4
[0015] The term "at least one" is used to mean one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
[0016] Throughout this specification, unless the context requires otherwise the word “comprise”, and variations such as “comprises” and “comprising”, will be understood to imply the inclusion of a stated element or step or group of element or 5 steps but not the exclusion of any other element or step or group of element or steps.
[0017] The term “including” is used to mean “including but not limited to”. “Including” and “including but not limited to” are used interchangeably.
[0018]
The term “INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International 10 Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
[0019]
All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure unless otherwise indicated. Ratios, concentrations, amounts, and other numerical data may be presented herein in a 15 range format. It is to be understood that such range format is used merely for convenience and brevity and should be interpreted flexibly to include not only the numerical values explicitly recited as the limits of the range, but also to include all the individual numerical values or sub-ranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and sub-range is explicitly recited. For example, a percentage 20 range of about 5% to 45% should be interpreted to include not only the explicitly recited limits of about 5% to about 45%, but also to include sub-ranges, such as 10% to 15%, 16% to 25%, and so forth, as well as individual amounts, including fractional amounts, within the specified ranges, such as 5.5%, and 27.25%, for example. 25
[0020]
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this disclosure belongs. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of the disclosure, the preferred methods and materials are now described. All 30 publications mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference.
5
[0021]
The present disclosure is not to be limited in scope by the specific embodiments described herein, which are intended for the purposes of exemplification only. Functionally equivalent products, compositions, and methods are clearly within the scope of the disclosure, as described herein.
[0022]
Embodiments herein provide a composition wherein the 5 composition is used for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, such as hair. The composition has good performance properties such as good chromaticity, good colour strength i.e. intensity of colour, even and uniform colouring that lasts long, with good lightening, and bleaching effect. The composition incorporates ingredients that are natural and/or have a natural origin and is therefore 10 environmentally friendly. In addition to the above benefits, the composition also provides a nourishment and conditioning effect to hair, resulting in soft, and moisturized hair. In particular, the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) of at least 3:1 and it is only when said ingredients are present within 15 the required weight ratio range that they function synergistically to provide the desired beneficial effects.
[0023] Embodiments herein also provide a method for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair, by mixing the composition as described herein with a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent to obtain a mixture; and 20 applying the mixture on said fibres. Also provided in some embodiments is a kit comprising the composition as described herein and the composition (B) and use of the composition as described herein.
Composition 25
[0024]
Embodiments herein provide a composition comprising at least one non-oxyalkylenated surfactant; at least one fatty compound; and at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidative dye, wherein weight ratio (w/w) between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is at least 3:1. 30
6
[0025]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the weight(w/w) ratio of the total amount of fatty compound(s) to the total amount of the non-oxyalkylenated surfactant is at least 3:1.
[0026]
In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of additional fatty compound(s) to the total amount of the fatty acid(s), glycerolated 5 nonionic surfactant(s), and the sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s) is at least 3:1.
[0027]
More preferably, in some embodiments, the weight ratio of the total amount of fatty compound(s) to the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant ranges from 3.2:1 to 10:1, preferably 3.5:1 to 8:1, and more preferably 3.8:1 to 7:1.
[0028]
The composition, according to embodiments herein, demonstrates 10 superior performance benefits including intense, and even colouring, good colour uptake and long-lasting colour, and good lightening/bleaching effect. In addition, the composition also has good working qualities, such as good cosmeticity and ease of mixing and application. As the composition incorporated ingredients that are more natural in origin, the composition is also environmentally friendly. 15
Non-oxyalkylenated surfactants
[0029]
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-oxyalkylenated surfactants.
[0030]
The non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s), according to embodiments herein is(are) selected from at least one glycerolated nonionic surfactant, at least 20 one sugar-based nonionic surfactant, at least one fatty acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0031]
Preferably, the composition according to embodiments herein, comprises one or more glycerolated nonionic surfactants.
[0032]
For the purposes of the invention, the term “glycerolated nonionic surfactant" means a nonionic surfactant comprising at least one mole of glycerol, 25 preferably comprising a number of moles of glycerol ranging from 1 to 50, more preferentially from 1 to 20 and even more preferentially from 1 to 10.
7
[0033]
The term glycerolated nonionic surfactant means mono glycerolated(one mole of glycerol) or poly glycerolated(several moles of glycerol) nonionic surfactant.
[0034]
Examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants that are preferably used, alone or as a mixture, include: 5
- monoesters or polyesters of linear or branched C8 to C40 acids and glycerol or polyglycerol, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol; in particular monoesters or diesters of linear or branched C8 to C32, better still C8 to C28 or even C8 to C24 acids, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol; 10
- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 to C40, better still C10 to C28, even better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C18 alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains, and comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even from 2 to 10 mol of glycerol. 15
[0035]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) according to the invention do not comprise any oxyalkylenes units, such as oxyethylene or oxypropylene units.
[0036]
In some embodiments, monoesters or diesters of linear or branched, C8 to C40, more preferentially C8 to C32, better still C8 to C28 or even C8 to C24 acids 20 and glycerol or polyglycerol, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol, will be preferred most particularly, alone or as a mixture, and better still, alone or as a mixture:
- diesters of branched C12 to C32, better still C14 to C28, or even C16 to C24 acids, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even 25 from 2 to 10 mol of glycerol; preferentially diesters of branched C16 to C24 acids, comprising from 2 to 10 mol of glycerol, among which mention may be made of isostearic acid diester containing 3 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate);
8
- monoesters of linear or branched, preferably linear, C8 to C24, better still C8 to C20, or even C8 to C18 acids, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20 or even from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol; preferentially monoesters of linear C8 to C18 acids, comprising from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol, among which mention may be made of lauric acid monoester containing 4 mol of 5 glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 laurate), capric acid monoester comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 caprate) or caprylic acid monoester comprising 1 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl caprylate), stearic acid monoester comprising 1 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate)
[0037]
In some embodiments, the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) is/are 10 selected from at least two different glycerolated nonionic surfactants selected from monoesters or polyesters of linear or branched C8 to C40 acids, preferably C8 to C32 acids, more preferably C8 to C28 acids, and glycerol or polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or even from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol, or combinations thereof. 15
[0038]
The glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s), according to embodiments herein, is/are selected from monoesters of linear or branched, preferably linear, C8 to C24 acids, more preferably C8 to C20 acids, and better from C8 to C18 acids, and glycerol or polyglycerol, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or more preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol. 20
[0039]
Preferably, glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s), according to embodiments herein, is/are selected from a lauric acid monoester containing 4 mol of glycerol, a capric acid monoester comprising 4 mol of glycerol, a caprylic acid monoester comprising 1 mol of glycerol, a stearic acid monoester comprising 1 mol of glycerol, or combinations thereof. 25
[0040]
The glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9
[0041]
Preferably, the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) is/are selected from monoesters of linear, C8 to C24 acids, more preferably C8 to C20 acids, and better from C8 to C18 acids, and glycerol or polyglycerol, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or more preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol, and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, 5 preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0042]
Preferably, the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) is/are selected from lauric acid monoester containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 4 laurate), capric acid monoester comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 caprate), caprylic acid monoester comprising 1 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl caprylate), stearic acid monoester comprising 1 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Glyceryl stearate), or combinations thereof, and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by 15 weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0043]
Preferably, the composition according to embodiments herein, comprises one or more sugar-based nonionic surfactants.
[0044]
For the purposes of the invention, the term "sugar-based nonionic 20 surfactant", means a nonionic surfactant having a monosaccharide portion (i.e. monosaccharide or oside or simple sugar) or an oligosaccharide portion (short chains formed from the sequence of monosaccharide units, possibly different) or a polysaccharide portion [long chains made up of monosaccharide units, possibly different, i.e. polyholosides or polysosides (homopolysaccharides or 25 heteropolysaccharides)].
[0045]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s) according to the invention do not comprise any oxyalkylene units, such as oxyethylene or oxypropylene units.
10
[0046]
The sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) preferably selected from alkylpolyglucosides, sucrose fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters, or combinations thereof.
[0047]
The alkyl(poly)glucoside(s), is(are) represented especially by the following general Formula I: 5
R1O—(R2O)m-(R3)n
(I)
wherein:
R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear 10 or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
R3 represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
m denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4, 15
n denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
[0048]
In some embodiments, the alkylpolyglucoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, 20
R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
m denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
R3 denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of n, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 or from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 25 and 2.
11
[0049]
In various embodiments, the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. In some embodiments, the alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glucosides 1,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides are also useful. 5
[0050]
In some embodiments, mention may be made of the commercial products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 10 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.
[0051]
In various embodiments, use is made of C8/C16-alkyl(poly)glucosides 1,4, especially as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by COGNIS under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
[0052]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the alkylpolyglucoside is selected 15 from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, or combinations thereof.
[0053]
More preferably, in some embodiments, the alkylpolyglucoside is selected from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, or combinations thereof. 20
[0054]
The sucrose fatty ester(s) include sucrose monoesters, diesters, triesters, polyesters, or combinations thereof, and typically contain sucrose monoesters. The sucrose fatty esters include single fatty acid esters and also include homogeneous mixtures of sucrose esters, containing members with different lengths of fatty acid carbon chain and/or members with different degrees of 25 esterification. For example, the sucrose fatty esters include mixtures of monoesters, diesters, triesters, and/or polyesters.
12
[0055]
Sucrose fatty esters are compounds having the following formula shown in Formula II below:
(II)
wherein each of X1, X2, X3, X4, X5, X6, X7 and X8 independently is: a hydroxyl (-5 OH) group, or
where:
each R is an alkyl group having 3-27 carbon atoms; and when at least one of X1, X2, X3, X4, X5, X6, X7 and X8 is
10
each R can be a different alkyl group (e.g., having different number of carbon atoms and/or different saturation), or can be the same alkyl group.
[0056]
Typically, in the sucrose fatty ester, each R has between 7 and 27 carbon atoms, and typically between 7 and 19 atoms, such as 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, or 19 carbon atoms or between 7 and 17 carbon atoms. 15
[0057]
An alkyl group can be a straight chain or branched alkyl group, can be substituted or unsubstituted, and can be a “saturated alkyl group,” meaning that it does not contain any alkene or alkyne groups; or an “unsaturated alkyl group,” meaning that it contains at least one alkene or alkyne group. An alkyl group that includes at least one carbon-carbon double bond (C—C) also is referred to by the 20
13
term “alkenyl,” and alkenyl groups optionally can be substituted. An alkyl group
that includes at least one carbon-carbon triple bond (C═C) also is referred to by the term “alkynyl,” and alkynyl groups optionally can be substituted.
[0058]
An exemplary monoester has the following structure as shown in Formula III: 5
(III)
where R is an alkyl group having 3-27 carbons, and typically 7-27 carbons. The sucrose fatty esters include blends of sucrose fatty esters, which typically include monoesters, and can also include diesters, triesters and polyesters, which have 10 structures according to Formula (III), above, where two (diesters), three (triesters) or more (polyesters) of X1, X2, X3, X4, X5, X6, X7 and X8, (and typically X1 and X8) independently, are
[0059]
In some embodiments, the sucrose fatty esters include sucrose fatty 15 ester blends, for example, sucrose ester mixtures containing a specified amount (e.g., percent, by weight) of sucrose monoesters.
[0060]
In various embodiments, the sucrose fatty esters are selected from sucrose fatty monoesters, such as sucrose monocaprylate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose monolaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose monopalmitate, sucrose 20 monostearate, sucrose monopelargonate, sucrose monoundecanoate, sucrose monotridecanoate, sucrose monopentadecanoate and sucrose monoheptadecanoate.
14
[0061]
Examples of sucrose fatty esters that may be used include sucrose cocoate sucrose laurate (and) aqua (and) alcohol (Surfhope(R) C-1215 commercially available from Mitsubishi-Kagaku), sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose stearate, sucrose dilaurate, sucrose hexaerucate, sucrose oleate, 5 sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose polybehenate, sucrose polycottonseedate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose polylinoleate, sucrose polypalmate, sucrose polyoleate, sucrose polysoyate, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose tetraisostearate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose hexaoleate/hexapalmitate/hexastearate, sucrose hexapalmitate, sucrose trilaurate, or combinations thereof. 10
[0062]
In some embodiments, the sucrose fatty esters include sucrose oleate, sucrose laurate (and) aqua (and) alcohol, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose stearate, and mixtures thereof, all of which are commercially available from Mitsubishi-Kagaku under the tradename Surfhope(R) C. The sucrose fatty ester 15 may be used, for example, as a mixture with other ingredients, for example alcohol, such as the products sold, for example, by Mitsubishi-Kagaku under the trade name Surfhope(R) C. Alternatively the sucrose fatty ester may also be used without additives, for example, such as the product Ryoto Sugar Ester S 370 (Ryoto).
[0063]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the sucrose fatty ester(s) is(are) 20 selected from sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose stearate, sucrose dilaurate, sucrose hexaerucate, sucrose oleate, sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose polybehenate, sucrose polycottonseedate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose polylinoleate, sucrose polypalmate, sucrose polyoleate, sucrose polysoyate, sucrose 25 ricinoleate, sucrose tetraisostearate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hexastearate, sucrose hexapalmitate, sucrose trilaurate, or combinations thereof.
15
[0064]
More preferably, in some embodiments, the sucrose fatty ester(s) is(are) selected from sucrose oleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, or combinations thereof.
[0065]
The sorbitan esters may be selected from the group consisting of sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan 5 monooleate, sorbitan palmitate, or combinations thereof.
[0066]
Preferably, the sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, sucrose oleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, or combinations thereof. 10
[0067]
More preferably, the sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from coco-glucoside, sucrose oleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, or combinations thereof, more preferably from coco-glucoside, sucrose stearate, or combinations thereof.
[0068]
The sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s), according to embodiments 15 herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0069]
Preferably, the sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) selected from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cetearyl 20 glucoside, sucrose oleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, or combinations thereof, and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070]
Preferably, the composition according to embodiments herein 25 comprises one or more fatty acids.
[0071]
The term “fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention 16
preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22
carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.
[0072]
The fatty acid of the invention may be present as the free form or as the neutralized, partly or totally, form.
[0073]
In some embodiments, the fatty acids present in the composition 5 according to the invention include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0074]
In various embodiments, the fatty acids include at least one 10 carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0075]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the fatty acids include at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, unsaturated alkyl chain comprising 15 from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0076]
In some embodiments, the fatty acids are selected from compounds having the structure Rt-C(O)OH in which Rt represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 5 to 39 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 29 carbon atoms, preferentially from 11 to 23 carbon atoms, 20 better still from 13 to 19 carbon atoms.
[0077]
For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in the composition are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Further, they may be present as free form or as the neutralized, partly, or totally, form.
[0078]
The fatty acids may be selected from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty 25 acids, or combinations thereof.
[0079]
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “solid fatty acid” means a fatty acid with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than 17
or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric
pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
[0080]
The solid fatty acids, in some embodiments, are selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, or combinations thereof. 5
[0081]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the solid fatty acid(s) are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or combinations thereof, more preferably from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0082]
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty acid” 10 means a fatty acid with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
[0083]
The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, or combinations thereof, more preferably is oleic acid. 15
[0084]
The fatty acid(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) solid fatty acids, in particular, selected from fatty acids including at least one carboxylic acid group and a linear or branched, unsaturated alkyl chain comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0085]
Preferably, according to embodiments herein, the fatty acid(s) 20 is(are) selected from at least one carboxylic acid comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferably from the carboxylic acid comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0086]
Preferably, according to embodiments herein, the fatty acid(s) 25 is(are) selected from myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof.
[0087]
The fatty acid(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by 18
weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 3%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088]
Preferably, the fatty acid(s) is(are) solid fatty acids, in particular, selected from fatty acids including at least one carboxylic acid comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferably from the carboxylic acid comprising 10 to 30 carbon 5 atoms, and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089]
Preferably, the fatty acid(s) is(are) selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof, and is(are) in a total 10 amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090]
Preferably, the non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by 15 weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091]
Preferably, the non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is(are) selected from at least one glycerolated nonionic surfactant, at least one sugar-based nonionic surfactant, at least one fatty acid, or mixtures thereof, and is(are) in a total amount 20 ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty compounds
[0092]
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more 25 fatty compounds.
[0093]
The fatty compounds, in the composition according to embodiments herein, are different from fatty acids, glycerolated nonionic surfactants and sugar-
19
based nonionic surfactants previously described. The fatty compounds are
other than free fatty acids and neutralized fatty acids.
[0094]
The term “fatty compound” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more 5 preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty compounds are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, 10 tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0095]
The fatty compounds that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated .
[0096]
Preferably, the fatty compounds that may be used according to the invention are non-silicone fatty compounds. 15
[0097]
The term “non-silicone fatty compound” refers to a fatty compound not containing any Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty compound” refers to a fatty compound containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0098]
In some embodiments, the fatty compounds that are useful may be liquid fatty compounds (or oils) and/or solid fatty compounds. The term “liquid 20 fatty compound” means a fatty compound with a melting point of less than or equal to 25° at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) and the term “solid fatty compound” means a fatty compound with a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
[0099]
For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point 25 corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 20
by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting
points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
[0100]
More particularly, the liquid fatty compound(s) may be selected from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant 5 (plant oils) or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, or combinations thereof.
[0101]
In some embodiments, the fatty alcohols and esters contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally 10 substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0102]
The C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably selected from alkanes. Examples that may be 15 mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, or combinations thereof.
[0103]
The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably 20 selected from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, or combinations thereof.
[0104]
A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene. 25
[0105]
The triglyceride oils of plant (or plant oils) or synthetic origin are preferably selected from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame 21
seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil,
caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, or combinations thereof.
[0106]
The fluoro oils may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane 5 and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the 10 company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
[0107]
The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched 15 alcohols, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, or combinations thereof. 20 Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0108]
The liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned previously, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 25 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0109]
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.
22
[0110]
In some embodiments, the monoesters are selected from dihydroabietyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-5 ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, or combinations thereof.
[0111]
Preferably, in some embodiments, among the monoesters of 10 monoacids and of monoalcohols, are selected ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, or combinations thereof.
[0112]
In various embodiments, esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or 15 tricarboxylic acids and of C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0113]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols is(are) selected from diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; 20 diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol; dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; 25 triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, or combinations thereof.
23
[0114]
In some embodiments, fatty esters and diesters of C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids may be included.
[0115]
In some embodiments, a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol is preferred.
[0116]
In some embodiments, the fatty compounds are selected from liquid 5 fatty compounds, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, or combinations thereof, more preferably from plant oils.
[0117]
Preferentially, the liquid fatty compound(s) are selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, or combinations 10 thereof, more preferably from plant oils.
[0118]
The solid fatty compounds preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
[0119]
The solid fatty compound(s) are preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, or 15 combinations thereof.
[0120]
The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. 20
[0121]
In some embodiments, the solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 40 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure Rv-OH with Rv denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 25 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0122]
In various embodiments, the solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably
24
linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from
6 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0123]
Examples of the solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected, alone or as a mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl 5 alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0124]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the solid fatty alcohol is selected 10 from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or combinations thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or combinations thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol, or cetearyl alcohol.
[0125]
The solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be 15 used are selected from esters derived from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0126]
Preferably, in some embodiments, these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon 20 atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0127]
Preferably, in some embodiments, these solid fatty esters are esters 25 of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a diol including from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably glycol distearate.
25
[0128]
In various embodiments, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0129]
In some embodiments, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty 5 alcohol are selected from octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, or combinations thereof. 10
[0130]
Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate, or combinations thereof. 15
[0131]
For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter 20 light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is 25 obtained.
[0132]
In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be selected from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, or combinations thereof.
26
[0133]
In some embodiments, the waxes may be selected from hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, notably of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins 5 and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
[0134]
In various embodiments, the waxes are selected from C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene. 10
[0135]
In some embodiments, the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8 to C32 fatty chains may be selected. Among these waxes mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the 15 commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0136]
The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with 20 cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
[0137]
A wax that may also be used is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester 25 Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
[0138]
It is also possible to use microwaxes in some embodiments; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the
27
name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic
-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of 5 carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro 10 Powders.
[0139]
In some embodiments, the waxes are preferably selected from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, 15 esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; or combinations thereof.
[0140]
The ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, 20 which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0141]
The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula (IV): 25
R’’’CH(OH)CH(CH2OR’’)(NHCOR’),
(IV)
in which:
28
R’ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
R’’ denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m 5 group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
R’’’ denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides 10 or glycoceramides, R’’’ may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0142]
In some embodiments, the ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R’ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R’’ denotes a hydrogen atom and R’’’ denotes a 15 saturated linear C15 group.
[0143]
Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R’ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R’’ denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R’’’ denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group. 20
[0144]
In some embodiments, the ceramides are selected from compounds for which R’ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R’’ denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R’’’ denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon-based radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group. 25
[0145]
In various embodiments, the ceramides that may be used are selected from 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-[2-
29
hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane
-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-5 N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide, or combinations thereof. N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
[0146]
The solid fatty compounds are preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or combinations thereof 10 such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0147]
Butter may also be used.
[0148]
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter” (also referred to as a “pasty fatty compound”) means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, comprising at a temperature of 25°C and at 15 atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature of more than 25°C and a melting end temperature of less than 60°C.
[0149]
Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty 20 Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0150]
Mention may be made more particularly of shea butter, Karité Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), 25 Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipé butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum
30
murumuru
), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus 5 dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.
[0151]
Preferably, the fatty compound(s), different from the fatty acids, glycerolated nonionic surfactants and sugar-based nonionic surfactants, according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from liquid fatty compounds, solid fatty compounds, or combinations thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons 10 containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty alcohol esters, waxes, ceramides, or combinations thereof.
[0152]
More preferably, the fatty compound(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon 15 atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty esters, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters or combinations thereof, more preferably from plant oils, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters or combinations thereof.
[0153]
The fatty compound(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably 10% to 40% by 20 weight, and more preferably 15% to 35% by weight, better still from 20% to 32% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0154]
Preferably, the fatty compound(s), is(are) selected from liquid fatty compound, solid fatty compounds, or combinations thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty 25 alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters, waxes, ceramides, or combinations thereof, and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably 15% to 35% by weight, better still from 20% to 32% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 30
31
[0155]
Preferably, the fatty compound(s), is(are) selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty esters, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters or combinations thereof, and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably 15 to 35% by weight, better still from 20% to 32% by weight, 5 relative to the total weight of the composition.
Alkaline agent
[0156]
The composition, according to the invention, may comprise at least one alkaline agent.
[0157]
Preferably, the composition, according to the present invention 10 comprises at least one alkaline agent.
[0158]
The alkaline agent(s) that may be used is(are) selected from at least one mineral, organic, or hybrid alkaline agent, or combinations thereof.
[0159]
The mineral alkaline agents are selected from ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and 15 potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, or combinations thereof.
[0160]
The organic alkaline agents are selected from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine, or 20 combinations thereof.
[0161]
The term “alkanolamine” means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary, or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0162]
In some embodiments, organic amines selected from alkanolamines 25 such as, monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C10 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the present invention.
32
[0163]
In particular, in some embodiments, the alkanolamine(s) are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, 5 tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, or combinations thereof.
[0164]
The alkaline agent(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, metal carbonates, metal bicarbonates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline-earth metal metasilicates, or combinations thereof. 10
[0165]
Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide. More preferably, the alkaline agent is selected from alkanolamines, better is, monoethanolamine.
[0166]
The total amount of the alkaline agent(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 15 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0167]
Preferably, the alkaline agent(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, or their combinations, and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% 20 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0168]
Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) selected from alkanolamines is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by 25 weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oxidative dye
33
[0169]
The composition, according to the invention, may comprise one or more oxidative dyes.
[0170]
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidative dyes.
[0171]
The oxidative dye, according to the present invention, includes at 5 least one oxidation base and/or at least one oxidation coupler. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidation bases in combination with one or more couplers.
[0172]
Oxidation bases are generally colourless or weakly coloured compounds which when mixed with oxidizing compounds give rise to coloured 10 compounds or dye. Further, the colour shades obtained with such oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with oxidation couplers or colour modifiers.
[0173]
The oxidation base(s), according to the present invention, that may be used, is(are) selected from a group consisting of para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, 15 heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts thereof.
[0174]
The addition salts of the oxidation bases are preferably selected from the addition salts with an acid, such as, the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such 20 as, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines, or alkanolamines.
[0175]
The para-phenylenediamines that may be used are selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-25 diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-
34
methylaniline, 4
-N,N–bis(-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2--hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-5 phenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl--hydroxyethyl)-para- phenylenediamine, N-(,-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4’-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2--hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2--acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-10 aminophenylpyrrolidine, 3-hydroxy-1-(4’-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, 2--hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene, and/or the addition salts thereof with an acid.
[0176]
In some embodiments, the para-phenylenediamines are selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2--hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxyethyl-15 para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2--hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2--acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, or, preferably, the addition salts 20 thereof with an acid, or combinations thereof.
[0177]
The bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that may be used are selected from N,N’-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N’-bis-(-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4-25 aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(ethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-amino-3’-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, or their addition salts thereof.
35
[0178]
The para-aminophenols may be selected from, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-5 amino-2-fluorophenol, or the addition salts thereof with an acid. In an example, the addition salt is a salt of sulphurous acid or sodium metabisulphite salt.
[0179]
The ortho-aminophenols that may be used are selected from, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, or the addition salts thereof. 10
[0180]
The heterocyclic bases that may be used are selected from pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
[0181]
In some embodiments, pyridine derivatives may be selected from the compounds as described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and/or GB 1 153 196, including 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-15 aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, or the addition salts thereof.
[0182]
In various embodiments, the pyridine derivatives may further be selected from 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases, or addition salts thereof described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples of such bases include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-20 a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, 25 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-
36
aminopyrazolo[1,5
-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo -[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol and 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol, or the addition salts thereof.
[0183]
In some embodiments, the pyrimidine derivatives may be selected 5 from the compounds described, for example, in the patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, including 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, or their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a 10 tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0184]
The pyrazole derivatives, in some embodiments, may be selected from, for example, the compounds described in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 or patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 or DE 195 43 988, including for example 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-15 diamino-1-(-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4’-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl-20 pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4’-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2’-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-25 dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(-hydroxyethyl)-amino-1-methylpyrazole, or their addition salts. 4,5-diamino-1-(-methoxyethyl)-pyrazole may also be used.
37
[0185]
In various embodiments, mention may be preferably made to 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably of 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, or its salts thereof.
[0186]
In a further embodiment, the pyrazole derivatives that may be used, also include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolo pyrazolones and especially those 5 described in patent application FRA 2886136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-10 a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-15 1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or, preferably, a salt thereof, or combinations thereof. Mention 20 may be preferably made to 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, or its salts thereof.
[0187]
In some embodiments, the heterocyclic base may be selected from 4,5-diamino-1-(-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol, 25 or their salts thereof.
[0188]
In various embodiments, the oxidation bases are selected from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, the corresponding addition salts, or combinations thereof, preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 30
38
2
-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0189]
The oxidation coupler(s), according to the present invention, that may be used, is(are) selected from a group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic 5 couplers, and their addition salts.
[0190]
In some embodiments, the oxidation couplers may be selected from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-10 methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-15 methylindole, 5-methoxy-6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 20 2-chloro-3,5-diaminopyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 4-(3,5-diaminopyridin-2-yl)-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-methylpiperazin-1-ium chloride, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,4,6-trimethoxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, 6-25 methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole and 2,6-diaminopyrazine, the addition salts thereof with an acid, or combinations thereof.
[0191]
In various embodiments, the oxidation couplers may be selected from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-β-30
39
hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4
-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition 5 salts, or combinations thereof.
[0192]
The oxidation couplers, in some embodiments, are further selected from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-β-10 hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, their addition salts, or combinations thereof.
[0193]
In general, the addition salts of the oxidation couplers, according to the present invention, are selected from addition salts with an acid, such as, 15 hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and the addition salts with a base such as, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0194]
In various embodiments, the oxidation couplers are selected from 6-20 hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, the addition salts thereof, the salts thereof, solvates of the salts thereof, or 25 combinations thereof.
[0195]
Preferably, the oxidation couplers are selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, or combinations thereof. 40
[0196]
The composition according to embodiments herein, is, in some embodiments, free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, or the addition salts thereof.
[0197]
The oxidation base(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight 5 of the composition.
[0198]
The oxidation coupler(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0199]
The oxidation base(s) and coupler(s) may be in suitable amounts 10 such that the total amount of oxidative dye, according to embodiments herein, is in a total amount ranging from 0.0002% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic polysaccharide
[0200]
The composition, according to the invention, may comprise one or 15 more cationic polysaccharides.
[0201]
Preferably, the composition according to the invention, comprises one or more cationic polysaccharides.
[0202]
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polysaccharide" refers to any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and/or 20 groups that can be ionized to form cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.
[0203]
In some embodiments, the cationic polysaccharide is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic galactomannan gums, or mixtures thereof, preferably is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary 25 ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, or combinations thereof.
41
[0204]
Examples of cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Dow chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary 5 ammoniums of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. The polyquaternium-10 is, for example, one of these polymers.
[0205]
The cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in 10 US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloyl ethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium or dimethyldiallyl ammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the 15 names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0206]
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably C1-C6 trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with 20 a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride). Such products are sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
[0207]
In some embodiments, the cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic cellulose derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, 25 cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, or combinations thereof.
[0208] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharides are selected from cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and better
42
from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. More preferably, the cationic polysaccharides are selected from polymers with INCI names, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or their mixtures, better is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. 5
[0209]
The cationic polysaccharide(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0210] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) selected from 10 cationic galactomannan gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0211] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) selected from 15 guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 4%, and better from 0.2% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Chelating Agents 20
[0212]
The composition, according to the invention, may comprise one or more chelating agents.
[0213]
Preferably, the composition, according to the invention, comprises one or more chelating agents.
[0214]
In some embodiments, the chelating agents are selected from at least 25 one carboxylic acid of formula (V) below, its optical isomers, geometric isomers, salts, solvates, or combinations thereof:
Ra-N-(CH(Rb)COOH)2 43
(V)
in which:
- Ra represents hydrogen atom, or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, 5 -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(CORc)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group; and
- Rb represents a CH2COOH group when Ra represents a hydrogen atom, or Rb represents a hydrogen atom when Ra is other than a hydrogen atom; and
- Rc represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 14 carbon 10 atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0215]
Preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (V) correspond to:
- compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when Ra represents the 15 -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and Rb represents a hydrogen atom, or when R1 represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and Rb represents a hydrogen atom;
- compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, when Ra represents the -CH(CH3)-COOH group and Rb represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ra represents a -(CH2)2-N(CORc)-CH2-COOH group and Rb represents a hydrogen atom; and to 20
- compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, when R1 represents the -CH2CH2OH group and Rb represents a hydrogen atom.
[0216]
More preferably, according to embodiments herein, the carboxylic acids of formula (V) correspond to compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions when Ra represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and Rb 25 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0217]
The carboxylic acids of formula (V), according to the present invention, may take the form of pure enantiomers, preferably in L configuration, or the form of mixtures, or the form of racemic mixtures.
44
[0218]
In an embodiment, the salts of the one or more carboxylic acids of formula (V) are selected from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, ammonium salts, or combinations thereof.
[0219]
Examples of alkali metal salts include especially sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, whereas examples of alkaline earth metal salts include 5 especially calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) salts.
[0220]
For the purposes of the present invention, a “transition metal” is a metal comprising an incomplete d subshell, and more particularly in the II oxidation state, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+). 10
[0221]
The organic amine salts, according to the present invention, may be made of the salts of primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, or alternatively of alkanolamines. The amines exhibit one or more identical or non-identical radicals, of linear or branched C1 to C20 alkyl type, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen. 15
[0222]
Preferably, the carboxylic acids of formula (V), according to embodiments herein, are selected from methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic 20 amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0223]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the chelating agents are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts 25 thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, optical isomers thereof, geometric isomers thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.
[0224]
Preferably, in some embodiments, the chelating agents are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-
45
aspartic acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition
metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof, and more preferably is N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), and/or tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate.
[0225]
N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-5 bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate and N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid are respectively represented by compounds (II), (III) and (IV) below:
[0226]
The chelating agent(s), according to embodiments herein, is (are) in 10 a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0227]
Preferably, the chelating agents are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-aspartic 15 acid, alkali metal salts thereof, alkaline earth metal salts thereof, transition metal salts thereof, organic amine salts thereof, ammonium salts thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof, and is (are) in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the 20 composition.
46
Polyols
[0228]
The composition, according to the invention, may comprise one or more polyols.
[0229]
Preferably the composition according to the invention, comprises one or more polyols. 5
[0230]
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” refers to an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. 10
[0231]
The polyols comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups, and even more preferably comprises 2 hydroxyl groups.
[0232]
In some embodiments, the polyols are selected from diols, preferably from C3-C6 diols. 15
[0233]
In some embodiments, the polyols, are selected from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, or mixtures thereof, preferably from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol or mixtures thereof.
[0234]
Preferably, the polyols are selected from propylene glycol, propane-20 1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, or mixtures thereof, better from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol or mixtures thereof. More preferably the polyol is propylene glycol.
[0235] The polyol(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by 25 weight, and more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
47
[0236]
Preferably, the polyol(s) is(are) selected from C3-C6 diols and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0237]
Preferably, the polyol(s) is(are) selected from propylene glycol, 5 propane-1,3 diol, or their mixtures and is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
[0238]
The composition according to the present invention optionally 10 comprises one or more additives, different from the compounds previously described and among which mention may be made of mineral thickening agents, solvents other than polyols, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or 15 pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, and preservatives.
[0239]
Each of the additives, in various embodiments herein, may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0240]
The solvents other than the polyols mentioned herein of the 20 composition, according to the present invention, may comprise water and/or one or more organic solvents.
[0241]
In an embodiment, the organic solvents are selected from linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or 25 phenylethyl alcohol, polyol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycolethers thereof, for instance propylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, 48
especially C
1-C4 alkyl ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
[0242]
The organic solvents, according to embodiments herein, when present are in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5
[0243]
The composition, according to the present invention, is preferably aqueous. In an embodiment, water in the composition, according to embodiments herein, is in an amount ranging from 30% to 99% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, and more preferably in an amount ranging from 45% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10
[0244]
When the composition comprises water, the pH preferably ranges from 8 to 12, more preferably from 9 to 11.
[0245]
In an embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one oxidizing agent as disclosed below. According to this embodiment, the composition of the invention is a ready to use composition comprising at least one 15 oxidizing agent.
[0246]
In another embodiment, the composition of the invention is free of oxidizing agent. According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably mixed with a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent as disclosed below immediately before use. 20
Kit
[0247]
Embodiments provided herein also include a kit comprising a composition (A) as described in the embodiments herein above comprising at least one non-oxyalkylenated surfactant; at least one fatty compound; and at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidative dye, wherein weight ratio between the 25 total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is of at least 3:1, and a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. The compositions (A) and (B) are intended to be mixed together at
49
the time of use to obtain
a ready to use composition which is then applied to keratin fibres for dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres. Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9.0 and 10.5.
[0248]
The compositions (A) and (B) may be present in separate sachets or containers or in a single dual compartment sachet, optionally accompanied with 5 suitable one or more applicators which may be identical or different, such as fine brushes, coarse brushes or sponges. The kit mentioned above may also be equipped with a means for dispensing the desired mixture onto the hair, for instance the devices described in patent FR 2586913. Oxidizing agent 10
[0249]
Embodiments of composition (B) of the kit provided herein include at least one oxidizing agent.
[0250]
The oxidizing agents may be selected from, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and/or precursors thereof, or percarbonates of 15 alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals.
[0251]
In some embodiments, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
[0252]
The oxidizing agent(s), according to embodiments herein, is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B). 20
Method
[0253]
The composition of the present invention may be manufactured using known methods that are generally used in the cosmetics or dermatological field. Typically, the method for preparation of the composition comprises blending the non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s); the fatty compound(s); and the alkaline 25 agent(s) and/or oxidative dye(s), in a weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) of at least 50
3:1
, with a suitable solvent(s), and optionally the additive(s) to obtain the composition.
[0254]
Embodiments herein also include methods for manufacturing the composition (A) and composition (B) of the kit provided herein. In an embodiment, the method of preparation of the composition (A) is according to the method 5 described herein above comprising blending the non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s); the fatty compound(s); having weight ratio of the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) of at least 3:1 and the alkaline agent and/or oxidative dye, with suitable solvent(s), and optionally the additive(s) to obtain the composition (A). The method of preparation of the 10 composition (B) comprises blending oxidizing agent with suitable solvent(s) and optionally comprising the additive(s) to obtain the composition (B).
[0255]
Embodiments herein further include a method for dyeing of keratin fibres. The method includes dyeing and/or lightening of keratin fibres, particularly hair. In an embodiment, the method comprises mixing the composition (A) and the 15 composition (B) of the kit as provided herein to obtain a mixture and applying the mixture on said fibre. In some embodiments, the mixture is allowed to stand for a pause time in a range of 5 to 45 minutes. In some embodiments, the mixture is allowed to stand for a pause time in a range of 20 to 40 minutes.
[0256]
The temperature during the method is conventionally between room 20 temperature (from 25°C to 30°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.
Use
[0257]
Embodiments herein include the use of the composition and/or kit of the present invention. 25
[0258]
The composition and/or the kit, according to embodiments herein, may be used for dyeing and/or lightening or colour keratin fibres, particularly hair. The composition may be used for the purpose of colour change, colour lightening/bleaching of hair and/or coverage of greying hair.
51
[0259]
The composition and/or kit may be used on natural hair and/or artificial hair, including hair extensions.
[0260]
The composition and/or kit may be used at different temperatures, including conventionally at room temperature (between 25oC to 30oC) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C. 5
[0261]
Although the subject matter has been described in considerable detail with reference to certain examples and implementations thereof, it is understood that other implementations are possible and included within the scope of the present invention.
Examples 10
[0262]
The disclosure will now be illustrated with working examples, which is intended to illustrate the working of disclosure and not intended to take restrictively to imply any limitations on the scope of the present disclosure. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood to one of ordinary skill in the art to which this 15 disclosure belongs. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice of the disclosed methods and compositions, the exemplary methods, devices, and materials are described herein. It is to be understood that this disclosure is not limited to particular methods, and experimental conditions described, as such methods and conditions may apply. 20
Example 1: Composition for dyeing/lightening keratin fibres
[0263]
Composition A1 (according to the present invention) for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres was prepared using alkaline agent viz. 7.92% (w/w) of ethanolamine, non-oxyalkylenated surfactants viz. glycerolated nonionic surfactants viz. 2 %(w/w) of glyceryl caprylate, 1% (w/w) of polyglyceryl 4-25 caprate, 0.6% (w/w) of glyceryl stearate, sugar-based nonionic surfactants viz. 1.4% (w/w) of coco glucoside, 0.4% (w/w) of sucrose stearate, fatty acids viz. 0.32% (w/w) stearic acid, 0.02% (w/w) of myristic acid, 0.26% (w/w) of palmitic acid, fatty compounds viz. 6% (w/w) of Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed oil, 18%
52
(w/w)
of cetearyl alcohol, polyol viz. 5% (w/w) of propylene glycol, cationic polysaccharide viz. 0.49% (w/w) of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, reducer/antioxidant viz 0.25% (w/w) of ascorbic acid, 0.75% (w/w) of sodium metabisulfite, and water (qs up to 100 wt%). The weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compounds and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactants 5 in the composition A1 was 4:1.
[0264]
The composition A’1 (according to the present invention) and C1 (comparative composition) were prepared in the same manner as composition A1, except that the weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compounds and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactants was different for the compositions 10 i.e., in composition A’1, the weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compounds and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactants was 6:1; and in composition C1 the weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compounds and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactants was 2.7:1.
[0265]
Table 1 below provides the ingredients used to prepare the 15 compositions A1 and A’1 (according to the present invention), and comparative composition C1, expressed in % by weight:
Table 1
S.No.
Ingredient (INCI)
Compositions
A1
A’1
C1
1
Cetearyl Alcohol
18.00
18.00
18.00
2
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
6.00
6.00
6.00
3
Stearic Acid
0.32
0.32
0.32
4
Palmitic Acid
0.26
0.26
0.26
5
Myristic Acid
0.02
0.02
0.02
6
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
1.00
0.65
1.5
7
Glyceryl Caprylate
2.00
1.30
3.00
8
Sucrose Stearate
0.40
0.26
0.60
9
Glyceryl Stearate SE
0.60
0.39
0.90
53
10
Coco-Glucoside
1.40
0.80
2.40
11
Ethanolamine
7.92
7.92
7.92
12
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
0.49
0.49
0.49
13
Sodium Metabisulfite
0.75
0.75
0.75
14
Ascorbic Acid
0.25
0.25
0.25
15
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
0.47
0.47
0.47
16
Propylene Glycol
5.00
5.00
5.00
17
Toluene-2,5-Diamine
0.95
0.95
0.95
18
Hydroxybenzo Morpholine
0.72
0.72
0.72
19
Water
qs 100
qs 100
qs 100
[0266]
The compositions A2 to A5 (according to the invention); A’2 to A’5 (according to the invention) and C2 to C5 (comparative) were prepared in the same manner as the compositions A1, A’1, and C1, respectively, different combinations of oxidative bases and couplers were used in place of the combination of toluene-5 2,5-diamine, and hydroxybenzo morpholine as provided in Table 1 above.
[0267]
In compositions A2, A’2, and C2, the combination of 0.95% (w/w) toluene-2,5-diamine, and 0.27% (w/w) m-aminophenol was used as the oxidative base and coupler, respectively. In compositions A3, A’3, and C3, the combination of 0.95% (w/w) Toluene-2,5-diamine, and 0.33% (w/w) hydroxyethyl-3,4-10 methylenedioxyaniline HCl was used as the oxidative base and coupler, respectively. In compositions A4, A’4, and C4, the combination of 0.25% (w/w) N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate, and 0.72% (w/w) hydroxybenzo morpholine was used as the oxidative base and coupler, respectively. In compositions A5, A’5, and C5, the combination of 0.25% (w/w) N,N-bis(2-15 hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate, and 0.33% (w/w) hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline HCl was used as the oxidative base and coupler, respectively.
[0268]
The oxidizing composition B was prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in Table 2 below, expressed in % by weight: 20
54
Table 2
Ingredients
Composition B
Stabilizing and chelating agents
qs
Hydrogen peroxide
6.00
Cetearyl alcohol
2.28
Ceteareth-25
0.57
Trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA
0.85
Glycerol
0.50
Phosphoric acid
qs pH 2.2
Water
qs 100
Example 2: Evaluation of colour strength and colour uptake
[0269]
Protocol: Each of the compositions A1 to A5, and A’1 and A’5 (according to the invention) and C1 to C5(comparative) were independently mixed 5 with the oxidizing composition B in a 1:1 weight ratio. Each of the mixtures was applied to locks of hair containing 90% natural white hair, in a proportion of 5 g of mixture per 1 g of hair.
[0270]
After a leave-on time of 30 minutes on a hot plate at 27°C, the hair was rinsed, washed and dried. 10
[0271]
Results: The colouring of the hair was evaluated in the L*a*b* system, using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0272]
In this system, L* represents the lightness. The lower the value of L*, the darker and more powerful (intense) the colouring obtained. The 15 chromaticity is measured by the values a* and b*, a* representing the red/green axis and b* the yellow/blue axis. ΔL1 represents the difference between the L* values of the compositions A1 to A5 and C1 to C5, respectively, and ΔL2 represents the difference between the L* values of the compositions A’1 to A’5 and C1 to C5, respectively. 20
55
[0273]
The results for the Compositions A1 to A5, A’1 to A’5, and C1 to C5 are indicated in Table 3 below:
Table 3
Compositions
L*
ΔL1
ΔL2
A1
36.93
2.29
3.54
A’1
35.68
C1
39.22
A2
23.33
2.43
2.68
A’2
23.08
C2
25.76
A3
28.62
4.17
3.61
A’3
29.18
C3
32.79
A4
33.69
3.46
A’4
34.55
4.32
C4
38.01
A5
36.23
2.76
A’5
36.67
3.20
C5
39.43
[0274]
Compositions A1 to A5 (according to the invention) and A’1 to A’5 5 (according to the invention) had a lower L* value, with significant ΔL values (ΔL >2) and thus showed better colour intensity, compared to the comparative compositions C1 to C5. In particular, the compositions A1 to A5 and A’1 to A’5 encompassed a weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) of at least 3:1. The compositions 10 A1 to A5 had weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) of 4:1. The compositions A’1 to A’5 had weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) of 6:1, whereas the comparative 56
compositions C1 to C5 comprise
d a weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) of 2.7:1. Therefore, it could be observed that only when said ingredients of said compositions were present within the required weight ratio range of at least 3:1, did they function synergistically to provide the desired beneficial effects. 5
ADVANTAGES OF THE PRESENT DISCLOSURE
[0275]
The composition of the present disclosure achieves the combined benefits of imparting superior colour performance and being eco-friendly. In particular, the composition demonstrates a more intense colour with long lasting 10 colour uptake. It is environmentally friendly as it incorporates ingredients that are natural and/or are natural in origin, with a better carbon footprint thereby reducing the negative impact on the environment. In addition, the composition also contributes to more conditioned and nourished hair.
I/We Claim
1. A composition comprising:
a) at least one non-oxyalkylenated surfactant;
b) at least one fatty compound; and
c) at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one oxidative dye,
wherein weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is at least 3:1.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the weight ratio between the total amount of fatty compound(s) and the total amount of non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) ranges from 3.2:1 to 10:1, preferably 3.5:1 to 8:1, and more preferably 3.8:1 to 7:1.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is(are) selected from at least one glycerolated nonionic surfactant, at least one sugar-based nonionic surfactant, at least one fatty acid, or mixtures thereof.
4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the non-oxyalkylenated surfactant(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. The composition as claimed in claim 3, wherein the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) selected from monoesters or polyesters of linear or branched C8 to C40 acids, preferably C8 to C32 acids, more preferably C8 to C28 acids, and glycerol or polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or even from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol, or combinations thereof.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) selected from monoesters of linear or branched, preferably linear, C8 to C24 acids, more preferably C8 to C20 acids, better from C8 to C18 acids, and glycerol or polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 20, or more preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) selected from a lauric acid monoester containing 4 mol of glycerol, a capric acid monoester comprising 4 mol of glycerol, a caprylic acid monoester comprising 1 mol of glycerol, a stearic acid monoester comprising 1 mol of glycerol, or combinations thereof.
8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glycerolated nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition as claimed in claim 3, wherein the sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) selected from alkylpolyglucosides, sucrose fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters, or combinations thereof.
10. The composition as claimed in claim 9, wherein the alkylpolyglucoside(s) is(are) selected from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl lauryl glucoside, or combinations thereof; the sucrose fatty ester(s) is(are) selected from sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose stearate, sucrose dilaurate, sucrose hexaerucate, sucrose oleate, sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose polybehenate, sucrose polycottonseedate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose

polylinoleate, sucrose polypalmate, sucrose polyoleate, sucrose polysoyate, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose tetraisostearate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hexastearate, sucrose hexapalmitate, sucrose trilaurate, or combinations thereof; and the sorbitan fatty ester(s) is(are) selected from sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan palmitate, or combinations thereof.
11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) selected from decyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, coco-glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, sucrose oleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, or combinations thereof, preferably from coco-glucoside, sucrose oleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, or combinations thereof, and more preferably from coco-glucoside, sucrose stearate, or combinations thereof.
12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the sugar-based nonionic surfactant(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The composition as claimed in claim 3, wherein the fatty acid(s) is(are) selected from at least one carboxylic acid comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferably from the carboxylic acid comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof, and better still from myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, or combinations thereof.
14. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight,

preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fatty compound(s) is(are) selected from liquid fatty compounds, solid fatty compounds or combinations thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters, waxes, ceramides, or combinations thereof, more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fatty esters, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters, or combinations thereof.
16. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty compound(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably 15% to 35% by weight, better still from 20% to 32% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkaline agent(s) is(are) selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, metal carbonates, metal bicarbonates, alkali metal silicates, alkaline-earth metal silicates, alkali metal metasilicates, alkaline-earth metal metasilicates, or combinations thereof, preferably alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, or combinations thereof, more preferably alkanolamines, and better is monoethanolamine.
18. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkaline agent(s) is(are) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 2% to

25% by weight, and better from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
oxidative dye comprises at least one oxidation base and/or at least one
oxidation coupler:
the oxidation base being preferably selected from a group consisting
of para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-
aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts; and
the oxidation coupler being preferably selected from a group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenol, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers, and their addition salts,
the amount of each of which is in a weight range of 0.0001% to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
20. A kit comprising:
(a) the composition (A) as claimed in any one of the preceding claims; and
(b) a composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent,
a mixture of composition (A) and composition (B) resulting in a ready to use composition.
21. The kit as claimed in claim 20, wherein the oxidizing agent(s) is(are) in a total
amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to
20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
22. A method for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably hair,
comprising:
mixing the composition (A) as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 19 and the composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent to obtain a mixture; and applying the mixture on said fibres.

23. Use of the composition as claimed in claims 1 to 19 or the kit as claimed in claims 20 to 21, for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, such as hair.