FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ANIONIC AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANTS, AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION, NON-IONIC POLYSACCHARIDE(S) AND FATTY SUBSTANCE(S)
2. Applicant(s)
NAME
NATIONALITY
ADDRESS
L'OREAL
French
14 Rue Royale 75008 Paris, France
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed.
1
DESCRIPTION
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which comprises at least one anionic surfactant (a), at least one amphoteric surfactant (b), a 5 particular oil-in-water emulsion (c), at least one non-ionic polysaccharide (d), and at least one fatty substance (e).
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers using this composition.
Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for cleansing 10 and conditioning keratin fibers.
In the field of hair washing and haircare, rinse-out products and leave-in products are used. These products aim to provide good cleansing performances as well as various cosmetic properties, such as smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties. 15
Nevertheless, these products lead to compositions with insufficient foam qualities, notably in terms of creaminess and smoothness of the foam. Indeed, the foams are generally less creamy and less dense.
Furthermore, these products do not impart a high cosmeticity to hair, in terms of, for example, smoothness, sheen, softness, and disentangling properties. 20
There is thus a need to develop cosmetic compositions which effectively removes dirt, sweat, sebum and other inorganic particles from keratin fibers such as hair, and which overcome the above-mentioned drawbacks while improving the cosmetic properties.
The Applicant has now discovered that the combination of one or more 25 anionic surfactants, one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, a particular oil-in-water emulsion, one or more nonionic polysaccharides, and one or more fatty substances, makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.
Thus, a subject-matter of the invention is a cosmetic composition for washing and conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, 30 comprising:
(a) one or more anionic surfactants,
(b)
one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
(c)
an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, the size being expressed on a volume basis, and comprising: 35 2
- a silicone mixture comprising:
(i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s and
(ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg 5 of KOH per gram of amino silicone;
- a surfactant mixture comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and
- water;
(d)
one or more nonionic polysaccharides, and 10
(e) one or more fatty substances.
In particular, said composition allows obtaining excellent foam properties in terms of light and fluffy texture, enhanced working qualities (easy application) and improved cosmetic properties such as tactile smoothness and ease of combing on hair swatches. The compositions look like whipped creams. 15
The composition has a viscosity preferably ranging from 350 to 800 centipoise (cps) (350 to 800 mPa.s), more preferably from 400 to 700 cps (400 to 700 mPa.s), better from 500 to 600 cps (500 to 600 mPa.s), as measured by using a rheometer with M4 spindle at a temperature of 25⁰C, during 30 s. and with a speed of 200 rpm.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for cleansing and 20 conditioning keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, such as hair, using this composition.
Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, such as hair. 25
According to the present application, the term “keratin fibers” denotes preferably human keratin fibers, and in particular hair. By “hair” in the present invention is meant the hair fibers of the head.
Other subject-matters, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow. 30
In the text herein below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". 35 3
Anionic surfactant(s) (a)
The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant as first essential component.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or 5 ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge. 10
The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
It is understood in the present description that:
- carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate 15 and/or sulfonate functions;
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not 20 comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).
They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, 25 alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds.
The alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. 30
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use may also be made of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl 35 4
polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts
thereof.
Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most
particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts
5 thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular
ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the
name Akypo,
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used
are preferably chosen from those of formula (I):
10
wherein,
- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C8-
C9)phenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched
15 C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
preferably, R1 is a C8-C20 and preferably C8-C18 alkyl radical, and aryl preferably
denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably
from 2 to 10,
20 - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine
residue.
It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (I), in particular
mixtures of compounds containing different groups R1.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are
25 particularly preferred are those of formula (I) in which:
- R1 denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (I) in which
30 R denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from
2 to 10.
Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a
mixture, from:
- acylglutamates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as
35 stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
R1 (OC2H4)n OCH2COOA ((I1) )
5
- acylsarcosinates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates, especially of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates; 5
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates and especially (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino 10 alcohol salts.
The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-).
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, 15 alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds. The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. 20
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from: 25
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates,
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino 30 alcohol salts.
The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).
6
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds.
The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; 5 the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, 10 from:
- alkyl sulfates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20,
- alkyl ether sulfates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino 15 alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt. 20
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. 25
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising 30 from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates; 35 7
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts 5 thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino 10 alcohol salts.
More preferably, the anionic surfactants are of alkyl sulfate type and are preferably chosen from salts, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium salts, ammoniums salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline earth metals for example magnesium salts, of alkyl sulfates, of alkylamide sulfates, of alkyl ether 15 sulfates, of alkylamido ether sulfates, of alkylaryl ether sulfates, of monoglyceride sulfates and mixtures thereof.
The alkyl radical of all these various compounds preferably contains from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. 20
The anionic surfactants suitable in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Even more preferentially, the anionic surfactants are selected from C12-C14 alkyl ether sulfate salts, such as lauryl ether sulfate salts. 25
The anionic surfactant(s) (a) are preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, especially from 5% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (b) 30
The second essential component of the cosmetic composition of the invention is the at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain 35 8
containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20alkyl)amido(C3-C8alkyl)betaines or (C8-C20alkyl)amido(C6-C8alkyl)sulfobetaines. 5
Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (II) and (III) below:
Ra-C(O)-N(Z)CH2(CH2)mN+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2C(O)O-, M+, X- (II) 10
wherein,
-
Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
-
Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; 15
-
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
-
M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
-
X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from 20 halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;
-
m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
-
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
Or alternatively M+ and X- are absent; 25
Ra’-C(O)-N(Z)-CH2-(CH2)m’-N(B)(B') (III)
wherein
-
B represents the group -CH2-CH2-O-X'; 30
-
B' represents the group -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2;
-
X' represents the group -CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-C(O)OZ’, -CH2-CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-CH2-C(O)OZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
-
Y' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ’, -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z’; 35 9
-
Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
-
Ra’ represents a C6-C30 alkyl or C6-C30 alkenyl group of an acid Ra’-COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C17 alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group; 5
-
m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
-
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
The compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium 10 cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and hydroxyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.
Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the 15 company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (IV): 20
Ra’’-NH-CH(Y’’)-(CH2)n-C(O)NH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (IV)
wherein,
-
Y’’ represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z''; 25
-
Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
-
Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
-
Ra" represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-C(O)OH which is 30 preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; and
-
n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds of formula (IV), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium
10
diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Among the above-mentioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferred to use (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. 5
More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, and even more cocobetaine.
The amphoteric surfactant(s) (b) are present in a total amount ranging preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10%, most preferably from 0.2% to 5%, and better from 0.5% to 3%, relative to the total weight 10 of the composition.
Oil-in-water emulsion (c)
The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises an oil-in-water emulsion (or silicone-in-water emulsion) as third essential component. 15
The oil-in-water emulsion (c) has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, the size being expressed on a volume basis, and comprises:
- a silicone mixture comprising:
(i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s and 20
(ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone;
- a surfactant mixture comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and 25
- water.
In the oil-in-water, or silicone-in-water, emulsion according to the invention, a liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is advantageously dispersed in another liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the mixture of silicones (or silicone mixture), or silicone phase, is dispersed in the aqueous continuous phase. 30
The silicone mixture comprises (i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, preferably of formula (V):
R’3SiO(R’2SiO)pSiR’3 (V),
in which:
11
- R’, which may be identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical, and
- p is an integer ranging from 500 to 2,000, better still from 1,000 to 2,000.
The polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups (i) according to the 5 invention have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 100,000 being excluded, more preferably ranging from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, better still from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.
The polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups according to the invention are preferably linear, but they may comprise, in addition to the R’2SiO2/2 10 units (D-units), additional RSiO3/2 units (T-units) and/or SiO4/2 units (Q-units), in which R’, which may be identical or different, is a C1-C18 monovalent hydrocarbon radical.
Preferably, in formula (V), R’, which may be identical or different, is:
- an alkyl, preferably C1-C28 alkyl, radical, such as the radicals: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 15 isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl and notably n-hexyl, heptyl and notably n-heptyl, octyl and notably n-octyl, isooctyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl; nonyl and notably n-nonyl; decyl and notably n-decyl; dodecyl and notably n-dodecyl; octadecyl and notably n-octadecyl;
- an alkenyl radical such as vinyl and allyl; 20
- a cycloalkyl radical such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl;
- an aryl radical such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl;
- an alkaryl radical such as o-, m- and p-tolyl; xylyl and ethylphenyl radicals;
- an aralkyl radical such as benzyl and phenylethyl. 25
Preferentially, R’ is a methyl radical.
Preferably, the polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups (i) are polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups.
The silicone mixture also comprises (ii) one or more amino silicones, preferably of formula (VI): 30
XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (VI),
in which:
- R, which may be identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical; 35 12
- X, which may be identical or different, represents R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C1-C6 alkoxy group; preferably X is R, i.e. a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical;
- A is an amino radical of formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated form of this 5 amino radical, with
- R1 representing a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2- radical;
- R2, which may be identical or different, being a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom; 10
- R3 being a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a -CH2CH2- radical;
- x is 0 or 1;
- m and n are integers such that m+n ranges from 50 to 1,000, better still from 50 to 600.
Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the 15 protonated form of this amino radical, with R1 being -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 being hydrogen atoms, R3 being -CH2CH2- and x being equal to 1.
Preferably, R, which may be identical or different, is:
- an alkyl, preferably C1-C28 alkyl, radical, such as the radicals: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 20 isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, tert-pentyl, hexyl and notably n-hexyl, heptyl and notably n-heptyl, octyl and notably n-octyl, isooctyl, 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl; nonyl and notably n-nonyl; decyl and notably n-decyl; dodecyl and notably n-dodecyl; octadecyl and notably n-octadecyl;
- an alkenyl radical such as vinyl and allyl; 25
- a cycloalkyl radical such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl;
- an aryl radical such as phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl;
- an alkaryl radical such as the radicals o-, m- and p-tolyl; xylyl, ethylphenyl;
- an aralkyl radical such as benzyl and phenylethyl. 30
Preferentially, R is a methyl radical.
The amino silicones (ii) according to the invention have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.
13
The amino silicones (ii) according to the invention have an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably from 3.5 to 8 mg.
The molar percentage of amine function is preferably between 0.3 mol% and 8 mol%. 5
As examples of amino silicones (ii), mention may be made of amino silicones bearing trialkylsilyl end groups; preferably aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, better still copolymers of aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane bearing trialkylsilyl end groups/dimethylsiloxane. 10
The amino radical A may be partially or totally protonated, for example by addition of acids to the amino silicone, so as to obtain the salified form of said amino radical.
As acids that may be used, mention may be made of linear or branched carboxylic acids containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, such as formic acid, acetic acid, 15 propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid. Preferably, the acids may be used in a proportion of from 0.1 to 2.0 mol per mole of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (VI).
The silicone mixture preferably comprises:
(i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity 20 at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 100,000 mPa.s being excluded, in an amount of from 70% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 75% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, and
(ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of 25 amino silicone, in an amount of from 10% to 30% by weight, notably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.
The oil-in-water emulsion (c) also comprises a surfactant mixture which comprises one or more nonionic surfactants; said surfactant mixture may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants. 30
Said surfactant mixture has an HLB ranging from 10 to 16.
The nonionic surfactants that may be used may be chosen from alcohols, α-diols and (C1-20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol 35 14
groups possibly ranging from 1 to 30; or else these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and notably from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing from 2 5 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides including on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils, 10 N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, notably represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including 6 to 24 carbon 15 atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit including 5 to 6 carbon atoms, 20
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical including from 25 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical including 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and 30 preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl (poly)glucosides of 1-4 type, and 35 15
notably decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under 5 the names Oramix CG 110 and Oramix® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70, or the products sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.
Preferably, use is made of C8/C16 alkyl (poly)glycosides of 1-4 type, notably as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference 10 Plantacare® 818 UP.
The mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants preferably comprise an average number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30, notably from 1 to 10, better still from 1.5 to 5. They preferably correspond to one of the following formulae:
RO[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH, 15
RO[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH or
RO[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH;
in which:
- R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon (notably alkyl or alkenyl) radical including 8 to 40 carbon atoms, notably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, 20 optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as O and N, or an amide group, and optionally substituted for example by hydroxyl groups; and
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 10, better still from 1.5 to 6.
In particular, R bears one or more hydroxyl groups and may comprise and/or 25 ether and/or amide groups. Preferably, R is a mono- or polyhydroxylated C10-C20 alkyl or alkenyl radical.
Mention may be made of polyglycerolated (3.5 mol) hydroxylauryl ether, such as the product Chimexane® NF from Chimex.
Mention may also be made of (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably 30 comprising one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chains comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl (OH) groups, notably 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups.
16
When the chain is unsaturated, it may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols preferably correspond to formula (VII):
R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH,
in which: 5
- R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more, notably 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups; and
- c is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, notably from 2 to 150, or even from 4 to 50 and even better still from 8 to 30. 10
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO); mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol 2 EO; lauryl alcohol 3 EO; decyl alcohol 3 EO; decyl alcohol 5 EO and oleyl alcohol 20 EO.
The nonionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from: 15
(i) (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)ethoxylated, fatty alcohols, and in particular those of formula: R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH in which:
- R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more, notably 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups; and 20
- c is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, notably from 2 to 150, or even from 4 to 50 and even better still from 8 to 20.
(ii) (poly)oxyalkylenated (C8-C32)alkyl phenyl ethers, notably comprising from 1 to 200, better still from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
(iii) polyoxyalkylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids and of sorbitan, notably 25 polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids and of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide (EO) units; in particular polyoxyethylenated esters of C10-C24 fatty acids and of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide (EO) units; and 30
(iv) polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids, preferably containing from 2 to 150 ethylene oxide units; notably polyoxyethylenated esters of C10-C24 fatty acids, notably comprising 2 to 150 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
17
The nonionic surfactants may advantageously be chosen from alkyl ethers and alkyl esters of polyalkylene glycol, notably of polyethylene glycol. Mention may in particular be made of:
- polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene glycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; and 5 most particularly trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6;
- polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether;
- polyethylene glycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate;
- polyethylene glycol stearate, and notably PEG100 stearate. 10
Better still, the nonionic surfactants may be chosen from Steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof; most particularly, a mixture comprising these four nonionic surfactants.
The surfactant mixture may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants, which may be chosen from tetraalkylammonium, tetraarylammonium and 15 tetraalkylarylammonium salts, notably halides, and most particularly from cetrimonium or behentrimonium salts, notably halides, better still chlorides.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the surfactant mixture in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, notably from 8% to 15% by weight, even better still from 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the 20 emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the nonionic surfactant(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, notably from 8% to 15% by weight, even better still from 10% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. 25
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the cationic surfactant(s), when they are present, in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total amount ranging from 40% to 60% by weight, notably from 45% to 55% by weight, 30 relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the polydialkylsiloxane(s) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups in a total amount ranging from 35% to 45% by weight, notably from 38% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
18
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, notably from 8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises water in a total amount ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, notably from 30% to 45% by weight, even better 5 still from 35% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion may also comprise a preserving agent, such as phenoxyethanol, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
A process for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises: 10
- a step of mixing one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 100,000 mPa.s being excluded, and one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone; at a temperature of from 15°C to 40°C, notably at 15 25°C, so as to obtain a fluid silicone mixture; and then
- a step of adding a surfactant mixture comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16, to said fluid silicone mixture, so as to obtain an emulsified silicone mixture; and then
- a step of homogenizing said emulsified silicone mixture, followed by 20
- a step of adding water, notably demineralized water, preferentially in steps, so as to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm.
The preparation process may also comprise an additional step of adding one or more preserving agents.
The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion is generally between 4 and 6. 25
The oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, notably between 100 and 300 nm, better still between 150 and 250 nm, even better still between 160 and 200 nm, the size being expressed on a volume basis.
This size corresponds to the average hydrodynamic particle diameter. The particle size D50 is expressed on a volume basis. It may be measured using a ZetaSizer 30 device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the “Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS)” method.
19
Method for measuring the particle size
The particle size of the emulsion is measured using a ZetaSizer device from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the “Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS)” method.
The particle size D50 is measured when the evaluation algorithm is “cumulant 5 analysis”.
0.5 g of the emulsion is placed in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of demineralized water are added and mixing is performed so as to obtain the solution to be tested. The solution to be tested is placed in the measuring cuvette (or cell) and introduced into the measuring device. 10
The size D50 corresponds to the particle diameter value at 50% in cumulative distribution.
For example, if D50 = 170 nm, this means that 50% of the particles have a size of greater than 170 nm, and that 50% of the particles have a size of less than 170 nm.
It should be recalled that this distribution is on a volume basis. 15
Method for measuring the viscosity
The viscosities, notably of the silicone compounds, are measured at 25°C, 1.013 x 105 Pa (1 atm).
To measure viscosities of between 1,000 and 40,000 mPa.s at 25ºC, use may 20 be made of an Anton Paar rheometer, model MCR101, cylinder geometry, single gap: CC27 spindle, shear rate 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
To measure viscosities of between 40,000 and 100,000 mPa.s at 25ºC, use may be made of an Anton Paar rheometer, model MCR101, 25-6 cone (cone-plate geometry, 25 mm in diameter / 6° cone); Zero gap, shear rate 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25 25°C.
Three measurements are performed for each sample, and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. The MCR Rheometer Series products operate according to the USP convention (US Pharmacopeia Convention, 912 – Rotational Rheometer methods). 30
Method for measuring the amine number
The amine number may be measured by acid-base titration, using a potentiometer [Make: Veego; model VPT-MG].
20
0.6 g of the sample is placed in a 500 ml beaker and a 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is added, and the whole is then mixed.
The solution is titrated with 0.1 N HCl solution. Determination of the zero value (Vblank) is also performed with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture alone.
The amine number is calculated by means of the formula: 5
56.11 × (V - V Blank) × N / W mg KOH/ g of sample
with V = volume of HCl required (in ml), VBlank = volume of HCl required for the zero value (in ml); N = normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1, and W = mass of the sample (in g). 10
HLB values
The term “HLB” relates to the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant. It may be measured experimentally or calculated.
In the present patent application, the HLB values are the values at 25°C.
The HLB values may be calculated by means of the following equation: 15 HLB = (E + P)/5, in which E is the weight percentage of oxyethylene and P is the weight percentage of polyol, as described in the Griffin publication, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5, No. 4), pages 249-256.
The HLB values may also be determined experimentally according to the book by Puisieux and Seiller, entitled “Galenica 5: Les systèmes disperses [Galenics 20 5: Dispersed systems] - Volume I - Agents de surface et émulsions [Surface agents and emulsions] - Chapter IV - Notions de HLB et de HLB critique [Notions of HLB and of critical HLB], pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Détermination de HLB par voie expérimentale [Experimental determination of HLB], pages 164-180”.
Preferably, the HLB values that will be taken into account are those obtained 25 by calculation, notably in the following manner: “calculated HLB” = 20 × (molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass).
Thus, for an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units fused to the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “HLB according to Griffin”. 30
For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is generally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s).
The HLB values of nonionic surfactants may also be calculated by means of the Davies formula, as described in Davies JT (1957), “A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent”, Gas/Liquid and 35 21
Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity): 426-438.
According to this formula, the HLB value is obtained by adding the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution linked to the constituent groups of the surfactant: 5
HLB = (number of hydrophilic groups) – n(number of groups per CH2 group) + 7.
The HLB values of some cationic surfactants are given in Table IV, in “Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics”, Godfrey, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pages 17-27.
When two surfactants A and B, of known HLB values, are mixed, the HLBMix 10 corresponds to the HLB of the mixture and can be expressed by the following equation:
HLBMix = (WAHLBA + WBHLBB)/ (WA + WB),
in which WA is the amount (weight) of the first surfactant A and WB the amount of the second surfactant B, and HLBA and HLBB are the HLB values of the surfactant A and of the surfactant B. 15
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the oil-in-water emulsion c) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the oil-in-20 water emulsion c) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 8% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the emulsion has a solids (or active material) content of between 40% and 60% by weight, notably 45% to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. 25
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the polydialkylsiloxane(s) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, in a total amount ranging from 0.04% to 4% by weight, better still from 0.4% to 3.2% by weight, preferentially from 0.8% to 2.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 30
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the amino silicone(s) having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number of from 2 to 10 mg KOH per gram of amino silicone in a total amount of from 0.01% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04% to 1.6% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 35 22
Non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d)
The fourth essential component of the cosmetic composition of the invention is the at least one non-ionic polysaccharide.
Mention may in particular be made, as polysaccharides according to the 5 invention, of those chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those resulting, for example, from cereals, such as wheat, maize or rice, from legumes, such as yellow pea, or from tubers, such as potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, 10 arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, , arabinogalactans, agars, gums tragacanth, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and non-ionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from starches, guar 15 gums, celluloses and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
As indicated above, the polysaccharide(s) according to the invention may be modified or non-modified.
The unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 20 and Jaguar C by the company Rhodia Chimie.
The modified non-ionic guar gums are in particular modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
Among the C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. 25
These guar gums are well known from the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present 30 on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2.
Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by Rhodia Chimie or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by Aqualon. 35 23
Use is made in particular, among the celluloses, of hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF and Klucel G by Aqualon and Cellosize Polymer PCG-10 by Amerchol.
Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) are chosen from guar gums 5 and/or derivatives thereof which are non-ionic, for example non-ionic guar gums modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, and/or mixtures thereof; more preferentially from non-ionic guar gums modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
Preferably, the content of the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still 10 from 0,1 to 5%, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the content of guar gums and/or derivatives thereof which are non-ionic ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0,1 to 5% better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to 15 the total weight of the composition.
Fatty substance(s) (e)
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances as fifth essential component. 20
The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, 25 the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly.
In other words, the term “fatty substances” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa), in particular 30 with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight.
Preferably, the fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
24
The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
The fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated. 5
The fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. A liquid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa). A solid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point of greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure 10 (1.013×105 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for 15 example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa).
More particularly, the fatty substance(s) according to the invention may be chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol, C6 20 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, nonsilicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, and liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglyceride oils, and mixtures thereof.
It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty esters more 25 particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, comprising from 8 to 40 and better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. 30
The solid fatty alcohols usable in the present invention may be saturated or unsaturated, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. In particular, the solid fatty alcohols have the following formula: R-OH wherein R is a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy 35 25
groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
The solid fatty alcohols usable in the inventive composition are preferably selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monoalcohols, in particular 5 linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30 atoms, even more preferentially from 12 to 24 atoms, more particularly from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. More preferably the solid fatty alcohols are selected from linear and saturated monoalcohols comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. 10
The solid fatty alcohols may be used alone or in combination, and may be selected from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol) ; cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol) ; stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol) ; arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol) ; behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol) ; lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol) ; ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol) ; montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol) ; myricyl alcohol (or 1-15 triacontanol).
Preferentially, the solid fatty alcohol(s) is(are) selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachydyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. More particular, the solid fatty alcohol(s) is is(are) selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures. 20
Solid fatty esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol that may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from esters of C9-C26 fatty carboxylic acid and/or of C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon 25 atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated, and are preferably carboxylic monoacids. 30
Mention may be also made of esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- ou pentahydroxylated alcohols.
Examples of such solid esters are cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl 35 26
stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol are selected from 5 C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, such as myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
As regards the C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, 10 branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid 15 paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
A non-silicone oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from 20 liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the 25 names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; 30 perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; 27
perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and 5 preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. 10
As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglyceride oils mentioned above, mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being 15 greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid is branched.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl 20 lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 25 alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, 30 isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
28
Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol 5 dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof. 10
The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which include at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or 15 polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides as described below.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose. 20
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 and preferably C12 to C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. 25
The liquid fatty esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof notably such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-30 stearate esters
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, -stearates, -behenates, -oleopalmitates, -linoleates, -linolenates and -oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.
29
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Preferably, use will be made of solid fatty substance(s) as fatty substance(s) (e), for example selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly selected from solid fatty alcohols 5 such as those defined above, optionally in combination with one or more liquid fatty substances such as those defined above.
More preferably, at least one solid fatty substance is used with at least one liquid fatty substance as fatty substances (e) in the cosmetic composition of the invention. 10
Even more preferentially, the at least one fatty substance (e) is a combination of solid fatty alcohol(s) such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures, and of liquid fatty substance(s) such as triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, for example soybean oil.
Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) (e) is in the range from 15 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total content of the solid fatty substance(s) (e) is in the range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 20
Preferably, the total content of the liquid substance(s) (e) is in the range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition may further comprise one or more cationic 25 polymers and/or one or more cationic surfactants.
Cationic polymer(s)
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic polymers. 30
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cationic polymer” denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups. 30
The cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-O units).
The cationic polymers may be associative or non-associative.
The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106 approximately and preferably between 5 103 and 3×106 approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:
10
in which formulae:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a 15 hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; 31
- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of the family (1) may also contain one or more units derived 5 from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters. 10
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium 15 chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, 20
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573, 25
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP; 30
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP;
- copolymers of acrylamide and acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, in particular compounds of INCI name acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide 35 32
copolymer such as the product sold under the name Salcare® SC 60 by the company BASF or under the name N-DURHANCE AA 2000 from ASHLAND;
- polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl 5 chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
(2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan 10 gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are 15 notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group, for instance Polyquaternium-20 10.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are notably described in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a 25 methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt, for instance Polyquaternium-4. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, use may also be made of cationic 30 associative celluloses, which may be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon 35 33
atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, 5 preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VIII): 10
in which:
- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+–, Q- in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a 15 halide, for instance a chloride or bromide;
- R’ represents an ammonium group R’aR’bR’cN+–, Q’- in which R’a, R’b and R’c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkyl, preferably an alkyl, and Q’- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; 20
it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b and R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30 alkyl;
- n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer of between 1 and 10 000.
Preferably, in formula (VIII), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b 25 or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C14 alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
Preferably, in formula (VIII), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R’a, R’b or R’c represents a linear or branched C8 to C30, better still C10 to C24 or even C10 to C14 30
(VIII) 34
alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C1 to C4 alkyl, notably methyl.
Better still, R may be a group chosen from –N+(CH3)3, Q’- and
–N+(C12H25)(CH3)2, Q’-, preferably a group –N+(CH3)3, Q’-.
Even better still, R’ may be a group –N+(C12H25)(CH3)2, Q’-. 5
The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:
- Polyquaternium-24, such as the product Quatrisoft LM 200®, sold by the 10 company Amerchol/Dow Chemical;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product Crodacel QM®;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QL®; and 15
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by the company Croda.
Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (VIII) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferentially R represents trimethylammonium 20 chloride (CH3)3N+-, Cl- and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(C12H25)N+-, Cl-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from the company Amerchol/Dow Chemical. 25
More particularly, the polymers of formula (VIII) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between 2,000 and 3,000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2,700 and 2,800 cPs. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2,500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2,700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2,700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2,800 cPs. Use may also be 30 made of Softcat Polymer SX-1300X with a viscosity of between 1,000 and 2,000 cPs.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such 35 35
products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17, Jaguar C162 or Jaguar Excel by the company Rhodia. Such compounds have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
(3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or 5 hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.
(4) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides 10 can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide 15 or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;
(5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of 20 polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic 25 acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 30 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name 35 36
Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units 5 corresponding to formula (IX) or (X):
in which formulae (IX) and (X):
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; 10
- R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1 to C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably 15 denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
- Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer sold, for example, under the name Merquat 100 20 by the company Nalco (and homologues thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, such as polyquaternium-7, notably sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula: 25
(IX)
(X)
(XI) 37
in which formula (XI):
- R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles 5 optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 10 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; 15
it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH2)nCO-D-OC-(CH2)n- in which D denotes: 20
a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of 25 polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; or 30
d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X- is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers consisting of repeating units corresponding to the formula: 35 38
in which formula (XII) R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. 5
A compound of formula (XII) that is particularly preferred is the one for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XIII):
10
in which formula (XIII):
- R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a 15 hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion, such as a halide, and
- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents 20 -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by 25 the company BASF.
(11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(12) polymers including in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below: 30
(XII)
(XIII) 39
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
In other words, these polymers may be notably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one 5 or more units derived from vinylformamide.
(13) and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from those of families (1), (2) and (7) and mixtures thereof. 10
More preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from copolymers of acrylamide and acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of 15 dialkyldiallylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers including, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (IX) or (X), and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers, cationic galactomannan 20 gums, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example a chloride), polyquaternium-7 and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, when the cationic polymer(s) are present, the total content of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially 25 from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic surfactant(s)
The cosmetic composition may further comprise one or more cationic 30 surfactant(s).
40
They are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may notably be mentioned include: 5
- those corresponding to the following general formula (XIV):
(XIV)
in which the groups R1 to R4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R1 to R4 denoting a linear or 10 branched aliphatic group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as especially oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; 15 X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates and (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XIV), the ones that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group 20 comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the 25 stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk. It is in particular preferred to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds;
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of 30 formula (XV) below:
NR2R4R3R1 X+
41
(XV)
in which R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4
alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7
5 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group
and X- is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates,
alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates or alkylarylsulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which
preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon
atoms. Preferably, R5 and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including
10 from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R7 denotes a
methyl group and R8 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example,
under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo;
- quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (XVI):
(XVI)
15 in which R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon
atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more
oxygen atoms, R10 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4
carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(R10a)(R11a)N-(CH2)3,
R9a, R10a, R11a, R11, R12, R13 and R14, which may be identical or different, are
20 chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates,
(C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates and (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in
particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, made available by Finetex
25 (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, made available by Finetex (Quaternium 75);
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as
those of formula (XVII) below:
CH
2
CH
2
N
C
N
R6
CH2CH2
R7
N(R8) CO R5
X
+
R10
N (CH2)3
R11
R9 N
R12
R13
R14
2X
-
++
42
(XVII)
in which:
R15 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or
dihydroxyalkyl groups;
5 R16 is chosen from:
- the group
- the groups R20, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-
C22 hydrocarbon groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
10 R18 is chosen from:
- the group
- the groups R22, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-
C6 hydrocarbon groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
15 R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to
6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
20 x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to
10;
X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then
R16 denotes R20, and that when z is 0 then R18 denotes R22.
25 The alkyl groups R15 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl
group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
R17 C
O
(OCrH2r)y N
+
(CsH2sO)z R18
R15
(CtH2tO)x R16 X
O
R C 19
O
R C 21
43
When R16 is a hydrocarbon group R20, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R18 is a hydrocarbon group R22, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are 5 chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1. 10
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, 15 such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.
The anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
Use may be made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (XVII) in which: 20
R15 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R16 is chosen from: 25
- the group
- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups,
- a hydrogen atom;
R18 is chosen from:
- the group 30
- a hydrogen atom;
O
R C 19
O
R C 21
44
R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
Examples which may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (XVII) 5 such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate 10 in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of 15 triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl 20 or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by CECA or Rewoquat® WE 18 by 25 Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester 30 function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. 35 45
Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl-ammonium salts.
The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof 5 and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain.
Preferably, the fatty amines of use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
By way of fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines.
The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty 10 amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, 15 at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines of use according to the invention are not quaternized.
Preferably, the fatty amidoamines of use according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
Among the fatty amidoamines of use according to the invention, mention may 20 be made of the amidoamines of formula (XVIII) below:
RCONHR''N(R')2 (XVIII)
in which:
- R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, 25 preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 and preferably C7-C23 alkenyl radical;
- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and 30
- R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
46
The fatty amidoamines of formula (XVIII) are chosen, for example, from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine sold by Inolex Chemical Company under the name Lexamine S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, 5 dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, 10 palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof. 15
The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (XIV), those of formula (XVIII), and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from the salts, such as the chlorides, the bromides or the methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, the dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in 20 particular the behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts; stearamidopropyl dimethylamine; brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, 25 brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 10% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.15% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 30
The composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof. 35 47
Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content ranging from 50% to 99%, by weight, more preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, better from 65% to 85% by weight, and better still from 70 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5
Optional adjuvant(s)
The composition according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.
Among the additives that may be used, mention may be made of reducing agents, thickeners, softeners, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, peptizers, 10 solubilizers, fragrances, proteins, vitamins, polymers other than the polymers described previously, preserving agents, oils, waxes and mixtures thereof.
The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention. 15
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional adjuvant(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s). 20
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, especially for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition as described above, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing, for example with water. 25
The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibers may range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibers.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition is not rinsed with water. 30
Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as described above for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers.
In the above description, all the preferred embodiments with regard to the components may be used individually or in combination.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention. 35 48
Examples
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are given as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition. 5
Example 1
The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients in the amounts indicated in table 1 below.
Table 1 10
Composition
1
(wt. %)
2
(wt. %)
Sodium laureth sulfate
13.9
13.9
Cocobetaïne
1.2
1.2
Cetrimonium chloride
-
0.4
Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine
0.4
-
Silicone emulsion* (Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3)
4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone)
4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone)
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer
0.1
0.1
Polyquaternium-7
0.35
0.5
Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
0.5
0.5
Hydroxypropyl guar
0.5
0.5
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
2.5
-
Glycine soja (soybean) oil
-
3.0
Cetearyl alcohol
1.0
1.0
Preservatives
qs
qs
Sodium chloride
3.5
3.5
Water qs
100
100
49
The procedure of preparation of the silicone emulsion* is described in example 1 of WO 2017/108824. It contains dimethicone, amodimethicone, non-ionic surfactants and water.
Example 2 5
The following compositions, composition 3 according to the invention and comparative composition 4, were prepared from the ingredients in the amounts indicated in table 2 below.
Table 2
Composition
3
(inventive)
(wt. %)
4
(comparative)
(wt. %)
Sodium laureth sulfate
13.90
13.90
Cocobetaïne
1.20
1.20
Cetrimonium chloride
0.4
0.4
Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3
4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone)
4% emulsion (0.4% amodimethicone + 1.6% dimethicone)
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer
0.1
0.1
Polyquaternium-7
0.5
0.5
Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
0.5
0.5
Hydroxypropyl guar
0.5
-
Carbomer
-
0.5
Glycine soja (soybean) oil
3.0
3.0
Cetearyl alcohol
1.0
1.0
Preservatives
qs
qs
Sodium chloride
1.2
1.2
Water qs
100
100
Viscosity (cps)
557
355 10 50
Comparative composition 4 has a thin consistency, does not have the whipped cream like texture and looks more liquidly whereas composition 3 according to the invention is stable and looks like whipped cream.
The viscosity of each composition was measured using a rheometer with M4 spindle at a temperature of 25⁰C, during 30 s. and with a speed of 200 rpm. The results 5 are indicated in Table 2 above.
Composition 3 is thicker and more viscous than composition 4.
1.2 g. of composition 3 and 4 were applied respectively on 6 Indian Medium bleach hair swatches of 20 cm and weighing 3 g. The shampoo was gently massaged into the hair passing each swatch, and rinsed with water. Each swatch was passed 10 between two fingers to remove excess water. Measures were performed in wet conditions.
Further, the hair swatches were dried in an oven at 60 °C for 10 minutes for each gram of hair. Measures were performed in dry conditions.
The smoothness was assessed in wet and dry conditions. 15
Smoothness measurement protocol
The principle of the method is to measure the friction force of a hair swatch between two bended bio-skin (simulation of the human perception of the touch between 2 fingers). The swatch is placed between two wipers which give constant 20 pressure. In a vertical downward movement of traction, it measures the friction force over the length of the swatch. The hair swatch is pinched between two half-cylinders with bio-skin on each of the surface, which is more relevant to consumer gestures and perception of smoothness on hair.
In this regard, a Dia Stron MIT 175 device was used. A hair swatch was fixed 25 on the force sensor of the device. The swatch was then placed between two wipers which give constant pressure. In a vertical downward movement of traction, the friction force is measured over the length of the swatch.
Smoothness is measured in terms of Force (N). Greater the force less will be the smoothness. 30
This study is conducted on 3 hair swatches for each composition and 15 data points were evaluated.
The results are indicated in Table 3 below.
51
Table 3
Composition 3
(inventive)
Composition 4
(comparative)
Wet smoothness
Average value
1.20
1.38
Standard deviation
0.13
0.14
Dry smoothness
Average value
0.53
0.65
Standard deviation
0.08
0.05
Significance has been concluded on basis of independent sample T-TEST (significance level of 5%).
Composition 3 according to the invention is significantly better than comparative composition 4 in both wet and dry smoothness.
I/We Claim:

1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) one or more anionic surfactants,
(b) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
(c) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, the size being expressed on a volume basis, and comprising:
- a silicone mixture comprising:
(i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, better still from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone;
- a surfactant mixture comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, said mixture having an HLB ranging from 10 to 16; and
- water;

(d) one or more nonionic polysaccharides, and
(e) one or more fatty substances.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) (a) are chosen from anionic surfactants of alkyl sulfate type, preferably from salts of alkyl sulfates, of alkylamide sulfates, of alkyl ether sulfates, of alkylamido ether sulfates, of alkylaryl ether sulfates, of monoglyceride sulfates and mixtures thereof, with the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms preferably from 12 to 28 carbon atoms; the aryl group denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; and these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, and preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) (a) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight and better still from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (b) are chosen from (C8-C20

alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C3-C8 alkyl)betaines and mixtures thereof, and preferably from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines and mixtures thereof.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric surfactant(s) (b) are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.2% to 5%, and better from 0.5% to 3%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polydialkylsiloxane(s) bearing trialkylsilyl end groups (i) are of formula (V):
R’3SiO(R’2SiO)pSiR’3 (V),
in which:
- R’, which may be identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical
containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still
from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, better still methyl; and
- p is an integer ranging from 500 to 2,000, better still from 1,000 to 2,000.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
wherein the amino silicone(s) (ii) are of formula (VI):
XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (VI), in which:
- R, which may be identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical
containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still
from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, even better still a methyl radical;
- X, which may be identical or different, represents R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C1-C6 alkoxy group; preferably, X is R;
- A is an amino radical of formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the protonated form of this amino radical, with:
R1 representing a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a -CH2CH2CH2-or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2- radical,
R2, which may be identical or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom,
R3 is a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably -CH2CH2-, and x is equal to 0 or 1;

- m and n are integers such that m+n ranges from 50 to 1,000, better still from 50 to
600;
preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the protonated form of this amino radical, with R1 being -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 being hydrogen atoms, R3 being -CH2CH2- and x being equal to 1.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
wherein the silicone mixture comprises:
(i) one or more polydialkylsiloxanes bearing trialkylsilyl end groups, having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, in an amount of from 70% to 90% by weight, preferably from 75% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture, and
(ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and an amine number ranging from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of from 10% to 30% by weight, notably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
wherein the nonionic surfactants are chosen from:
(i) (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)ethoxylated, fatty alcohols, and in particular those of formula: R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH in which:
- R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and notably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more, notably 1 to 4, hydroxyl groups; and
- c is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, notably from 2 to 150, or even from 4 to 50 and even better still from 8 to 20,
(ii) (poly)oxyalkylenated (C8-C32)alkyl phenyl ethers, notably comprising from 1 to 200 and better still from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
(iii) polyoxyalkylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids and of sorbitan, notably polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids and of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular polyoxyethylenated esters of C10-C24 fatty acids and of sorbitan, preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and

(iv) polyoxyethylenated esters of C8-C32 fatty acids, preferably containing from 2 to 150 ethylene oxide units; notably polyoxyethylenated esters of C10-C24 fatty acids, notably comprising 2 to 150 ethylene oxide units.
10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion c) has a particle size D50 of between 100 and 300 nm, better still between 150 and 250 nm, even better still between 160 and 200 nm, the size being expressed on a volume basis.
11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion c) is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) are chosen from guar gums and/or derivatives thereof which are non-ionic, and/or mixtures thereof; more preferentially from non-ionic guar gums modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) (d) is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty substance(s) (e) are solid fatty substance(s), preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol, and mixtures thereof, optionally in combination with one or more liquid fatty substances, and more preferentially a combination of solid fatty alcohol(s) such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and their mixtures, and of liquid fatty substance(s) such as triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, preferably soybean oil.
15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of the fatty substance(s) (e) is in the range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even better still from 1% to 6 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which further comprise one or more cationic polymers and/or one or more cationic surfactants.
17. Cosmetic treatment process, especially for cleansing and conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, consisting in applying to the said keratin fibers a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing, for example with water.