DESC:FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
The Patents Rules, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See section 10 and rule 13)

1. TITLE OF THE INVENTION: “A METHOD OF PREPARING ULTRA-SOFT FABRIC BY LOW TWIST”
2. APPLICANTS:
(a) Name : WELSPUN LIVING LIMITED
(b) Nationality : INDIAN
(c) Address : WELSPUN HOUSE, 7th FLOOR, KAMALA CITY, LOWER PAREL, SENAPATI BAPAT MARG, MUMBAI, MAHARASHTRA,
INDIA - 400 013

PROVISIONAL
The following specification describes the invention. ? COMPLETE
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed.

FIELD OF INVENTION
The present invention relates to a method of preparing ultra-soft fabric by low twist and altered spinning triangle. More particularly the present invention relates to manufacturing fabric having high air region through sustainable process.

BACKGROUND OF INVENTION
Based on data from the International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS), there was a notable 27% increase in the shipment of new short staple spindles in 2022 compared to the previous year. Ring spinning machines accounted for approximately 73% of the production of short staple fiber yarn, while rotor yarn and air jet yarn production constituted only 25% and 2%, respectively. These statistics underscore the widespread significance and dominant market presence of ring spinning machines in the production of short staple yarn. The superior yarn quality and operational versatility of ring spinning machines position them as the foremost spinning method compared to alternative systems like rotor spinning and air jet spinning.
In the industrial production of yarn, there's a delicate balance between integrating new technology into the manufacturing process and ensuring that the resulting price increase doesn't discourage consumers from purchasing the technologically advanced yarn products. Yarn prices are determined by vigorous competition, and unless the total production cost remains below the market price for a given quality of yarn, the manufacturing operation is unlikely to thrive, regardless of the technology employed.
The total cost can be influenced by various factors, including the introduction of new materials, energy consumption, logistics such as shipping and storage, the implementation of new technology, and labor expenses, among others. A manufacturer capable of integrating new technology into their processes with only a modest increase in cost can effectively produce high-quality, technologically advanced yarn on an industrial scale. However, it's important to note that not all new technologies developed for yarn production are suitable for large-scale industrial implementation. Some innovations may significantly inflate the total cost, surpassing the market price and rendering them impractical for widespread adoption.
Twisting plays a crucial role in the yarn spinning process. Initially, the fibers are drafted to align them, following which they undergo twisting one or more times to impart key characteristics such as strength, wear resistance, and smoothness to the yarn. False twist texturing is a specific method of twisting. It occurs when a running yarn is twisted, causing the false twist to become trapped between a roller system and a false twisting device.
The feed yarn typically possesses minimal or no twist, while the yarn situated between the roller system and the false twisting device acquires false twist. Subsequently, the yarn exiting the false twisting device mirrors the twist of the input yarn. Nevertheless, when the twisting process is altered or lacks control, residual torque can be inadvertently retained in the yarn. This residual torque has the potential to impact the rate of yarn breakage in the ring spinning machine, consequently influencing both the yarn quality and downstream processes. Therefore, effective control of the twisting process is paramount.
In the textile industry, "yarn twist" denotes the direction and extent of twist in yarns utilized for weaving or knitting fabrics. It pertains to the spiral arrangement of individual fibers within the yarn and the level of tightness with which they are twisted together. The yarn twist plays a pivotal role in determining the visual appeal, drape, and functional attributes of the resulting fabric.
Twist must run back as close as possible to the nip of the rollers, but never penetrates completely because after leaving the rollers, the yarns (in the case of two or more yarns) have to be diverted inwards and wrapped around each other. There is always a triangular bundle of fibers without twist at the exit of the rollers. This is called the “spinning triangle”. Most of the end breaks of the yarn originate at this point.
The prior art shows efforts trying to minimize the yarn breakage rate by lowering the speed of the yarn or increasing the twist on the yarn. However, this type of arrangement may lead to non-symmetry pattern and spiral twin knitted fabric. Additional treatments are required to overcome defects, leading to higher production costs.
During the spinning process, fibers are twisted together to form a continuous yarn. This twist can either be in the S-direction or the Z-direction, determined by the direction in which fibers are twisted during spinning. In S-twist, fibers twist clockwise, while Z-twist involves twisting fibers counterclockwise.
Yarn twist significantly impacts fabric structure and behavior, influencing stability, elasticity, resilience, and crease resistance. Fabrics with higher twist are more resilient and possess better wrinkle recovery, while lower twist fabrics may offer increased drape and softness. The choice of yarn twist depends on desired fabric characteristics and intended end-use.
In woven and knitted garment production, yarn twist is crucial as it imparts distinctive properties to fabrics. For example, high twist fabrics are ideal for shirting and suiting materials, providing excellent crease resistance and a crisp appearance. Conversely, lower twist fabrics, like those used in jersey knits, offer greater drape and stretch, suitable for comfortable, relaxed clothing.
Textile mills specializing in the production of premium yarns contribute significantly to manufacturing fabrics with precise yarn twists. They allocate resources towards employing advanced spinning techniques and maintaining strict oversight over twist levels throughout the production process to guarantee uniformity and accuracy. These mills are instrumental in meeting the requirements of luxury fashion labels and other manufacturers committed to crafting exquisite textiles. Their dedication to excellence ensures that fabrics with specific yarn twists meet the exacting standards of discerning clientele.
In summary, yarn twist stands as a pivotal element in textile production, exerting a profound influence on the aesthetics, functionality, and attributes of fabrics. The selection of twist direction and degree holds considerable sway over the fabric's drape, durability, and resistance to creasing. Fashion brands, textile mills, and manufacturers committed to delivering superior-quality textiles collaborate closely to attain the desired yarn twist, thereby ensuring that their fabrics meet the discerning standards and expectations of consumers.
Currently, the conventional ring spinning technique serves as the primary method for producing spun yarn. A critical aspect of traditional ring spinning is the formation of a spinning triangle region at the nip point of a front roller. Alterations in the shape of this triangle directly impact both the structure of the yarn and its forming performance. In recent years, numerous innovative spinning methods have emerged, each aiming to enhance yarn performance by modifying the internal structure of the yarn through adjustments to the triangle region. These advancements represent efforts to elevate yarn quality and performance standards in the textile industry.
With the scientific and technical advancements in textile materials and the escalating demands for fabrics with diverse styles and designs in garments, the need for advanced spinning technology continues to rise. This demand encompasses innovations like super high count yarns and multi-component composite yarns. Consequently, there has been a surge in research efforts directed towards spinning technology, leading to the development of various spinning methods. These include sirofil spinning, siro spinning, compact spinning, and cable spinning, among others. These spinning techniques represent the industry's response to evolving market needs, offering enhanced capabilities and versatility in yarn production to meet the demands of modern textile applications.
Ring-spinning technology stands as the predominant method for manufacturing both long and short staple spun yarn, offering versatility across a wide array of natural and synthetic fiber types, including cotton, polyester, and more, across a broad count range. Nonetheless, the conventional ring spinning system grapples with certain drawbacks, one of the primary being the inadequate integration of numerous fibers protruding from the yarn surface, resulting in yarn hairiness.
Hairiness is a crucial indicator used to assess yarn quality, as it can impact both the efficiency of subsequent yarn production processes and the overall quality and appearance of the final product. The significance of reducing hairiness becomes particularly pronounced with the widespread adoption of shuttle-free machines in modern textile manufacturing.
Typically, hairiness emerges during the yarn production process, where it tends to increase during spinning and decrease during sizing. In the case of ring spinning machines, fibers undergo twisting within a designated twisting triangle area, allowing them to be effectively incorporated into the yarn during spinning. However, this twisting action, particularly in the front roller within the twisting triangle area, subjects the yarn to torque, leading to the generation of yarn hairiness.
The textile industry holds significant importance in India's economic landscape, providing employment opportunities for both skilled and unskilled workers while contributing to the nation's overall growth. However, the industry also generates substantial quantities of textile waste, posing environmental challenges. Consequently, researchers and industries are directing efforts towards reducing textile wastewater and adopting eco-friendly techniques.
While the textile sector plays a pivotal role in India's industrial framework, it is accompanied by drawbacks. The utilization of chemicals and dyes in textile manufacturing results in the generation of large volumes of waste in the form of sludge, fibers, and chemically contaminated water.
The discharge of chemically polluted wastewater from textiles into the environment adversely affects the quality of soil and water, impacting natural habitats and ecosystems. The substantial amounts of solid and liquid waste produced by textile industries pose significant challenges in environmental pollution management.
It is observed that the utilization of sustainable and eco-friendly fabrics offers a key advantage in mitigating the environmental impact of the textile industry. Renowned as one of the most polluting sectors globally, much of the industry's pollution stems from the production of synthetic fabrics derived from petroleum-based materials.
In contrast, sustainable and eco-friendly fabrics are crafted from natural materials that are either biodegradable or recyclable. This characteristic aids in diminishing the volume of pollution generated by the textile industry. By opting for fabrics derived from natural sources, the industry can take significant strides towards fostering environmental sustainability and reducing its overall ecological footprint.
Indeed, there is need to provide method that manufactures sustainable fabric with minimum impact on environment and also compete the economic stand point in the competitive textile world.
OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
The main object of the present invention relates to provide the method of manufacturing high bulk and ultra-soft fabric having high airspace region and parallel fiber structure yarn through low twist.
Another object of the present invention is to provide method of manufacturing fabric with more air spaces along with sustainable channel source.
Yet another object of the present invention is to propose textile products made by the present industrially produced yarn, such textile products exhibiting at low twist multiplier without requiring the use of harsh chemical treatment.
The another object of the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing fuller fabric that has air accommodating packages for cushioning the temperature differentiation to user.
A further object of the invention is to provide softer and fuller fabric by using engineered optimization of manufacturing parameters, including but not limited to, spinning triangle geometry, sizing, combing, weaving to achieve the ultimate object of the invention.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a machine and method for industrially producing a yarn having low twist multiplier (T.M.).
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide textile products made by the present industrially produced yarn, such textile products exhibiting at low twist multiplier without requiring the use of chemical treatments.
The another object of the present invention is to provide more air spaces and bulky fabric by using optimized material particulars, including but not limited to, length of fiber, fiber count, Denier per Filaments, fiber fineness and reflectance.
A further object of the invention is to provide compactor in to the assembly that with special arrangement to make small spinning triangle which make the yarn at low twist multiplier i.e. 1.2 to 3.5.
Another object of the present invention provides more air spaces fabric without core sheath arrangement where water soluble PVA fibers were used to dissolve the core. The PVA fiber is considered to be a non-disposable material and ultimately harmful to the environment.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide fabric with inherent structure having moisture management system and breathable feature.
Further object of the present invention is to provide fabric having high bulk and ultra-soft terry feature that is compatible with terry as well as flat cloth with this process.
The another object of the present invention is to provide of terry cloth made up of fabric prepared as per the preferred embodiment of the present invention that has super absorbent, high bulk and soft.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide sheeting cloth made up of fabric prepared as per the preferred embodiment of the present invention that has property of extremely soft, inherent moisture management and thermal insulation.
This summary is provided to introduce a selection of concepts in a simplified form that are further described below in the Detailed Description. This summary is not intended to identify key features or essential features of the claimed subject matter.
SUMMARY OF INVENTION
The present invention provides the method of manufacturing high bulk and ultra-soft fabric having high airspace region and parallel fiber structure yarn through low twist. The crux of invention is to provide the fabric which is manufactured from -the un-conventional Twist multiplier range (1.8-3.5) still provides relative strength and withstands all parameters of conventional fabrics. Further present invention also provides more air spaces and bulky fabric by using optimized material particulars, including but not limited to, length of fiber, fiber count, Denier per Filaments, fiber fineness and reflectance. Further it also provides softer and fuller fabric by using engineered optimization of essential manufacturing parameters, including but not limited to, spinning triangle geometry, sizing, combing, weaving to achieve the ultimate object of the invention. The present invention also provides method for manufacturing fabric having inherent moisture management and super absorption property with sustainable approach to environment by not utilizing PVA/any soluble fiber.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF INVENTION
Fig. 1 is perspective side view of the winding assembly;
Fig. 2 depicts graphical representation for winding operation where hairiness and spinning triangle shown for the purpose of understanding;
Fig. 3 depicts the drafting system in the ring frame; and
Fig. 4 illustrates the compacting system, which is integrated within the drafting system of the ring frame.
DETAIL DESCRIPTION OF INVENTION
Before explaining the present invention in detail, it is to be understood that the invention is not limited in its application to the details of the arrangement of parts illustrated in the accompanied drawings. The invention is capable of other embodiments, as depicted in different figures as described above and of being practiced or carried out in a variety of ways. It is to be understood that the phraseology and terminology employed herein is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.
Furthermore, any reference in the specification to “an embodiment” “one embodiment,” “various embodiments, or any variant thereof means that a particular feature or aspect of the invention described in conjunction with the particular embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the present invention. Thus, the appearance of the phrases “in one embodiment,” “in another embodiment,” or variations thereof in various places throughout the specification are not necessarily all referring to its respective embodiment.
In an aspect, the presently claimed invention is a method of preparing an ultra-soft fabric using low-twist yarn comprising steps of:
(a) selecting a fiber material,
(b) spinning the fiber material into a low-twist yarn,
(c) weaving the low-twist yarn into a fabric structure,
(d) wet processing of the fabric structure; and,
(e) drying and finishing the fabric,
wherein the Twist Multiplier (TM) of the low-twist yarn is in the range of 1.8 to 3.5 for single yarn.
In an embodiment, the method further comprising applying a sizing agent to the low-twist yarn.
In an embodiment, the method of preparing an ultra-soft fabric using low-twist yarn comprising steps of:
(a) selecting a fiber material from natural, synthetic, or blended fibers, wherein fiber parameters such as effective fiber length, fiber fineness, and reflectance value are optimized for softness and bulkiness;
(b) spinning the fiber material into yarn with a Twist Multiplier (TM) in a controlled low range for single yarn and a proportionate reduction in twist for double yarn, wherein the spinning process includes following steps:
(i) opening and blending the fibers in a blow room with optimized beating conditions;
(ii) carding the fibers to remove neps and improve fiber parallelization;
(iii) drawing the sliver using a draw frame to improve fiber alignment, uniformity, and reduce hooks;
(iv) combing the fibers to remove short fibers, enhancing yarn smoothness and strength; and
(v) speed-framing to produce roving with an optimized TM and controlled half-lea strength;
(vi) performing ring spinning with a controlled drafting system, by adjusting following particulars:
(i) an optimized spinning triangle is maintained to minimize hairiness by using a compacting system within the drafting system; and,
(ii) compacting system optimizes fiber arrangement to achieve a balance between reduced hairiness, enhanced parallelization, and controlled low twist,
(c) optionally applying a sizing agent to the low-twist yarn to improve weaveability, wherein:
(i) applying of predetermined size pickup percentage based on fabric type;
(ii) removing applied size through a mild treatment without requiring harsh enzymatic or chemical treatments, ensuring environmental sustainability,
(d) weaving the low-twist yarn into a fabric structure with a predetermined density and pattern to enhance bulkiness and more air spaces, using a weaving process adapted for both flat cloth and terry cloth applications;
(e) wet processing the woven fabric through a controlled relaxation and softening treatment, includes following steps:
(i) applying steam treatment under controlled temperature conditions to enhance softness and reduce snarling;
(ii) subjecting the fabric to an enzymatic or chemical treatment to improve surface smoothness;
(iii) inducing mechanical agitation or air washing to enhance fiber openness, bulkiness, and flexibility,
(f) drying and finishing the fabric under optimized conditions, includes following steps:
(i) conducting hot air drying at a controlled temperature to prevent over-shrinkage; and
(ii) performing calendering or compacting to adjust thickness and surface smoothness.
The fiber material comprises cotton with an effective fiber length of at least 28 mm, a fiber fineness between 3.8 to 4.1 Micronaire, and a reflectance (Rd) value of at least 70, ensuring enhanced softness and bulkiness.
The fiber material comprises synthetic fibers such as rayon or polyester, with a fiber length of at least 32 mm and a denier per filament (DPF) ranging from 0.8 to 2.0 D, optimizing fiber alignment for enhanced softness.
In an embodiment, 66% of the single yarn twist is used in double yarn, thereby achieving lower twist while maintaining strength.
The spinning triangle is adjusted such that the width (WS) and length (L) are maintained in an optimized ratio, reducing hairiness and improving yarn uniformity.
The compacting system in the ring frame drafting system enhances fiber parallelization, reducing entanglement and improving yarn smoothness.
The sizing agent is applied with a pickup percentage of 7% to 10% for ground warp and 3% to 5% for pile warp in terry cloth, ensuring controlled tensile properties without excessive stiffness.
The weaving process is conducted on an air-jet loom for increased efficiency, ensuring uniform fabric structure and minimizing mechanical stress on the yarn.
The fabric undergoes steam treatment at the winding stage to stabilize the yarn and reduce snarling, improving yarn handling in subsequent processes.
The wet processing is optimized by eliminating harsh treatment in desizing and instead using a mild treatment, reducing environmental impact and maintaining fabric integrity.
The fabric structure allows moisture vapor transmission of at least 3000 g/m²/day as per ASTM E-96-05, ensuring enhanced breathability and comfort.
The final terry fabric exhibits an absorbency of at least 80% for terry cloth with a GSM of 500 or higher, and an absorption time of less than 1 second for flat cloth, making it suitable for high-performance applications.
The fabric retains its softness and bulkiness even after the application of additional functional finishes such as antimicrobial treatment, water repellence, or stain resistance.
In an embodiment, the finished fabric is used for the production of luxury bedding, bath textiles, terry towel, baby garments, high-performance active wear, bathrobes, and apparels, owing to its superior softness, breathability, and durability.
It is observed that textile fabrics are typically crafted from yarn or filaments, with cotton fabrics, derived from staple fibers, being commonly made from cotton staple fiber that is converted into yarn through the application of twist. This twisting process imparts strength and provides a permanent structure to the yarn. However, as the twist increases, there is a point of optimal twist beyond which further increases do not enhance strength but instead lead to the yarn becoming more snarled. This snarling effect can be somewhat controlled by steaming, but the same is limited to certain extend. Moreover, increasing the Twist Multiplier (TM) results in a corresponding increase in yarn twist but a reduction in the airspace within the yarn, leading to a more compact texture and a stiffer, harsher feel, along with a denser appearance.
It is observed that conventionally in cotton yarn the twist multiplier is in the range of 3.6 to 4.8. The present invention provides fabric with unconventional Twist Multiplier (TM) which is in the range of 1.8 to 3.5 through modifying the process in spinning.
For the purpose clarity and definition following terms has been defined below:
• TM = TPIv Ne
TM= Twist Multiplier, TPI: twists per inch or turns per inch, Ne= English Cotton Count
English Cotton Count = the number of hank of 840 yard lengths per pound.
• Effective length can refer to the length of the main bulk of longer fibres. It can also refer to the upper quartile length of a distribution, excluding fibres below half the upper quartile.
• Fibre fineness can be defined in micronaire (µg/inch) which measures units of mass (micrograms or µg) per unit of length (inches) to assess linear density.
• The reflectance (Rd) value: Fiber reflectance is the amount of light reflected compared to the light being transmitted through the fiber
• Spinning Triangle: The spinning triangle is a triangular bundle of fibres without twist that occurs at the exit of the front rollers in a ring spinning system. It is a critical area in the spinning process of staple yarn. The spinning triangle's geometry affects the distribution of fiber tension and the mechanical properties of the fiber. This, in turn, determines the quality of the spun yarn.
In weaving, sizing is the process of applying a sizing agent to the yarn to make it stronger and more resistant to mechanical stress during weaving. Sizing agents, including not limited to, include starch, polyvinyl alcohol, and acrylic-based sizing agents. Sizing protects the yarn by improving its wear resistance and reducing fiber abrasion. It also helps the yarn withstand weaving tensions by covering protruding fibers and preventing breakage.
The present invention relied on following steps to prepare the ultra-soft and high bulk fabric with following essential process steps:
Spinning >Weaving >Wet processing > Made-up
The essential steps of Process Flow Chart will be dealt in detail as follow:
i. Spinning:
It is submitted that spinning is the process of winding together drawn-out strands of fibres to form a yarn. It is a major part of the textile industry. Spinning is used in manufacturing various textile fibres. The different types of spinners used in the textile industry are Ring, Rotor and Air-jet spinners.
Spinning is the crucial and significant stage of processing textile products. In the method of spinning the extracted fibres are made into yarn and are used in the production of textiles.
As discussed in abovementioned objective the present invention also is to provide more air spaces and bulky fabric by using optimized material particulars i.e. length of fiber, fiber count, Denier per Filaments, fiber fineness and reflectance.
Following are the specification for cotton fiber:
• Effective fiber length =28 mm
• Fiber fineness: 3.8 to 4.1 Micronaire
• Reflectance (Rd) value: =70
Following are the specification for other fiber like Rayon, Polyester or other synthetic fiber:
• Fiber length = 32 mm
• Denier per Filaments (DPF): 0.8 to 2.0 D
In the preferred embodiment the yarn made by following invention is made from 9s Ne to 120s Ne with 100% cotton or blended with rayon and/or synthetic fiber, with below parameter.
Twist Multiplier: 1.8 to 3.5 in single yarn
66% of single yarns twist in double yarn.
The following two types of yarns can be made up by following the present invention:
• Single yarn
BLOW ROOM >CARDING>DRAW FRAME >COMBING >SPEED FRAME >RING FRAME >WINDING >STEAMING
• Double yarn
BLOW ROOM >CARD >DRAW FRAME >Combing >SPEED FRAME >RING FRAME >WINDING >STEAMING >PARALLEL WINDING >TWISTING.
As discussed in above mentioned objective of the present invention also is to provide more air spaces and bulky fabric by using optimized process parameters spinning triangle geometry, sizing, combing and weaving.
Each essential process steps are described below to provide ultimate object of the present invention:
• Blow Room:
The section where the supplied compressed cotton bale turns into a uniform lap of particular length by opening, cleaning, blending or, mixing in the blow room section. It is the precursor step for spinning. The section consist a number of different machines used in succession to open and clean the fibres.
Basically for opening and blending of the different fibres in specific proportion send to next m/c by chute feed system. In the preferred embodiment the beating Point is set at 3 or less.
• Carding:
The carding is the second process of spinning which converts fed material (lap) into the uniform strand of fibres called sliver. The good quality carding of cotton is very important because the yarn quality very much depends upon it. The neps percentage in the yarn varies according to the quality of carding process. In the carding process, the material gets passed through a carding machine. The fibres are made parallel to each other. The fibers tangle in this operation, thus it makes it possible to remove all types of impurities present in the cotton.
In preferred embodiment the machine run at 35 to 45 kg/hr.
The fibre mat to be fed in the carding requires a high degree of evenness. This evenness of the fibre mat ensures consistent opening and carding. This evenness is obtained through using the chute feed system. The main objective of the chute feed system is to maintain continuous and consistent feeding of fibre sheets of a uniform packing density and uniform linear density (weight per unit length) to the carding machine
• Draw frame:
The weight per unit length of the input sliver is reduced in the process of drafting. The hooked and curled fibres are straightened and fibre arrangement in the sliver is improved by making fibres parallel along the sliver length. The fibres are blended together in the drafting process. The drafting also helps to eliminate dust from the sliver.
The drafting action is performed with the help of pairs of drafting rollers.
Here we do drafting and making fiber more parallel and remove hooks we put six sliver and put draft to make one.
? To improve the uniformity (linear density) of sliver up to optimum level.
? To improve the fibre arrangement in the sliver and to make the fibres parallel to the sliver length.
? To straighten the hooked, curled and crimped fibres present in the sliver.
? To draft the material and to reduce the weight per unit length of sliver.
? To mix or blend the components of sliver to each other and to find homogeneous material output.
• Combing:
In combing, it prepares carded fibers for spinning by aligning fibers in parallel. The fibers are passed through a series of straight, metal teeth, which removes short fibers and leaves a sliver of long fibers that are laid parallel. This process produces a smoother, stronger, and more lustrous yarn.
Cotton fibers have a distribution of fiber lengths ranging from the longest fiber group to the shortest fiber group. Generally, the short fibers of length less than 12.5 mm do not contribute to the mechanical properties of the yarn but increase yarn hairiness, which adversely affects the yarn and fabric appearance. For these reason combing operation done for fine and strong yarn. Combed sliver has a better luster compared with carded sliver because of the improved fiber alignment.
The short fibers known as comber noils are very clean and they are graded as first-grade waste and may also be used for spinning very course yarns like 6’s and 10’s. The slivers known as combed slivers are fed to a Drawing machine since the combing gets fibers crisscrossed at many places and needs to be made parallel before they are taken to Fly Frames for conversion to go to spinning, a pre-spinning operation. During the application of comber, in preferred embodiment up to 20% of noils was removed in the process.
• Speed frame:
The roving frame/speed frame or simplex is a machine that comes between the comber and ring frame machine. The drawn sliver is used as a feeding material in a simplex machine. After completion of this process, the resulting material is called roving. We can say that "a simplex is a machine which converts the drawn sliver into a thin strand of fibres having some amount of twist". The sliver is drafted many times from its original length during the roving frame process and a little amount of twist is inserted into it to improve the strength of roving. This roving is wound onto the large conical packages. These packages are used as input material during the ring frame process. The weight per metre of sliver is reduced up to great extent and it is made suitable for ring frame.
In the process of roving twist setting is important parameter as roving will be the input material of ring frame. In order to achieve the final object of low twist here low TM is attenuated in the range of i.e. 0.84 to 0.86, which is deviating from the normal range TM which is in the range of 1.2 to 1.4 TM.
Further the half lea strength is set 40 to 50 Lbs, which is conventionally in the range of 60 to 80 lbs.
• Ring frame:
In textile, a ring frame is one of the crucial step or machine that converts roving into yarn. The machine has several spindles, each of which is a production center. The main components of a ring frame machine are: Creel, Drafting zone, Spindle, Ring, and Traveler.
The ring frame has the following elements: Drafting arrangement, Thread guide, Balloon control ring, and Traveller.
These elements are arranged at various angles and distances relative to each other. The ring frame drafts rovings, twists the yarn, and winds it on the bobbin continuously and simultaneously in one operation. The ring frame also inserts enough twist to the yarn to impart strength.
In the preferred embodiments to make single yarn the arrangement of altering the spinning triangle is one of the most crucial aspect in the present invention. Further in order to provide ultra-soft fabric and high air region the low TM (i.e. 1.2 to 3.5) and compacting system is provided which is depicted in the Fig. 1. Here the special arrangement to make optimized spinning triangle (width “WS” as well as length “L”) by compacting system is provided to reduce hairiness and low twist simultaneously.
In graphical representation Fig. 1 is showing how spinning triangle is from Nip of roller to point at which twist applied. A is optimized spinning triangle, B is larger spinning triangle and both are front view, C is side view.
Fig. 2 provided with explanatory depiction for the ring frame operation wherein, WS is the width of spinning triangle, L is the length of spinning triangle. In the present invention alteration is made to render W and WS equal so as to reduce the hairiness. More the difference between WS and W there will be more hairiness. The present provides use of compacting system to alter the spinning triangle into the system.
• Winding:
Winding is the process of transferring yarn from one package to another, such as from bobbins, rings, and hanks to cones, pirns, or cops. It is an important operation in the textile sector that occurs in both spinning and weaving. The objectives of winding are:
i. improve the quality of yarn
ii. reduce end breakage
iii. remove faults like hairiness, neps, slubs, and foreign matters
iv. store the yarn in a suitable package
v. get the required package of yarn
• Steaming:
The steaming is provided to remove stress in the yarn. The term of yarn liveliness, also referred to as twist liveliness or yarn snarling can be explained by the deterioration of the internal balance of the yarn as a result of the torsional force.
• Parallel winding
Parallel winding is a type of winding package where yarn is wound parallel to each other on a package with flanges on both sides. It is the most efficient winding method and is suitable for yarn packages with flanges that can hold the yarn in place. Parallel winding ensures the highest yarn density on the package.
ii. Weaving:
The weaving includes following steps:
Warping >sizing >weaving
• Warping:
Warping is the process of arranging parallel threads, called warp, lengthwise on a loom to prepare them for weaving. The threads are wound onto a beam, sized, and then threaded onto the loom. The quality of the warp threads is important because it determines the straightness and tension of the threads in the final fabric.
The warping process includes: winding the yarn onto the beam, sizing the yarn, preparing the beam for use on the loom, and threading the loom.
• Sizing:
Sizing is a process of applying a sizing agent to the warp yarn so as to improve the strength of the warp yarn in order to resist the mechanical stress applied to the yarn during weaving. There are different kinds of sizing agents such as polyvinyl alcohol, starch and acrylic-based sizing agents.
In the preferred embodiment water soluble size is applied to enhance the weaveability properties, especially strength, lubrication and binding properties. In flat cloth warp sheet and terry cloth ground the pick up 7% to 10% and for Pile sheet 3 to 5%. It is observed that the present invention does not utilizes harsh chemical treatment for de-sizing.
iii. Weaving:
Fabric is made in air jet loom and for terry cloth we used two beam warp sheet such as ground and Pile. And for Flat cloth we used one beam warp sheet. For terry cloth different gsm for 300 to 900 in 3,4, 6 pick terry and their derivatives in dobby / jacquard design and for flat fabric from 80 to 250 gsm fabric made with pain, twill, satin and there derivative in dobby design.
(iii) Wet Processing:
Wet processing is a series of chemical and mechanical treatments that use water or other liquids to alter the appearance, performance, and durability of textile materials. This process includes scouring, bleaching, coloration, and finishing, and is performed after weaving or knitting, but before the materials are made into finished products. Wet processing is important for improving the performance and serviceability of textile materials.
In preferred embodiment the process of wet processing wherein only wash needed to remove the size as water soluble size is utilized and other treatment like scouring, bleaching, dyeing, printing, finishing are same as normal wet processing.
After wet processing the Dyeing and printing was done as per design and dye used as per substrate.
iv. Made-up:
After fabric ready for made up, it is now ready for made up for making Towel, Bathrobe, fitted sheet, quilt or any other form of bed sheet, towel, bathrobe or quilt as per the end requirement of customer.
Fig. 3 depicts the drafting system in the ring frame, which plays a crucial role in fiber alignment and controlling the fiber flow before it enters the spinning triangle.
The drafting system consists of multiple roller pairs, typically including a back roller, middle roller, and front roller, each contributing to fiber drafting at varying speeds to ensure controlled elongation.
Key features of the drafting system include:
• Controlled fiber extension: The system ensures that fibers are drafted with precise elongation, reducing uneven stress and fiber breakage.
• Minimization of floating fibers: Proper tension distribution reduces uncontrolled movement, preventing irregularities in yarn formation.
• Reduction in drafting waves and neps: Smooth and controlled drafting leads to a more uniform sliver, reducing imperfections in the final yarn.
• Optimized drafting ratio: The drafting ratio is fine-tuned to accommodate different fiber types, ensuring the desired yarn characteristics.
The interaction of the drafting rollers determines the evenness and quality of the yarn, directly affecting its softness, bulk, and structural integrity.
Fig. 4 illustrates the compacting system, which is integrated within the drafting system of the ring frame to improve fiber arrangement and reduce yarn hairiness.
? Primary functions of the compacting system:
• Reduction of spinning triangle width (WS) and length (L): The compacting mechanism ensures that fibers are more closely packed, reducing the gap where fibers remain untwisted before the final yarn formation.
• Enhanced fiber bundling: By applying a controlled suction force or mechanical compression, the fibers are held together more effectively, leading to a well-aligned and structured yarn.
? Testing parameter (Absorbency Test):
? Test was followed according to the AATCC 140-2010 Method.
? At first the sample is taken & that is clumped in the stand in such way that only the pile containing portion of a towel can absorb water.
? A basin is placed beneath the stand for collecting residual water after absorption.
? Then 50 ml water is taken in a measuring cylinder. So the 1st Reading is always 50ml.
? Then the water is given in to the test kit & the stand is kept for absorption for 33 seconds.
? After 33 seconds the towel is taken away with the clump.
? Then the residual water, that has not been absorbed by the towel & has collected in the basin, is taken in to a measuring cylinder & the reading is taken. This is the 2nd Reading.
Absorbency % is calculated by the following formula:
Absorbency% = {(1st Reading × 2) – (2nd Reading × 2)} × 2
The present invention provides follow advantages:
i. Supper absorbent, absorbency more than 80% in 500 gsm or more in terry cloth and less than 1 Sec in Flat cloth.
ii. Ultra Soft Fabric
iii. High bulk fabric, 50% more bulky than same construction with normal yarn
iv. Breathable (air permeable, moisture vapour permeable) which help reduce perspiration in-turn provides greater comfort to the user for longer period. The MVTR (Moisture Vapour Transmission Rate) as per ASTM E-96-05 is more than 3000 gm/M2/Day.
v. Inherently the structure having moisture management system.
vi. Easily applied other functional durable finish like Anti-microbial, water and Oil Repellence, stain release etc. without effecting softness or bulky properties.
While various embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail, it is apparent that modification and adaptation of those embodiments will occur to those skilled in the art. It is expressly understood, however, that such modifications and adaptations are within the spirit and scope of the present invention as set forth in the following claims.
,CLAIMS:We Claims:
1. A method of preparing an ultra-soft fabric using low-twist yarn comprising steps of:
(a) selecting a fiber material,
(b) spinning the fiber material into a low-twist yarn,
(c) weaving the low-twist yarn into a fabric structure,
(d) wet processing of the fabric structure; and,
(e) drying and finishing the fabric,
wherein the Twist Multiplier (TM) of the low-twist yarn is in the range of 1.8 to 3.5 for single yarn.
2. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the method further comprising applying a sizing agent to the low-twist yarn.
3. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the method of preparing an ultra-soft fabric using low-twist yarn comprising steps of:
(a) selecting a fiber material from natural, synthetic, or blended fibers, wherein fiber parameters such as effective fiber length, fiber fineness, and reflectance value are optimized for softness and bulkiness;
(b) spinning the fiber material into yarn with a Twist Multiplier (TM) in a controlled low range for single yarn and a proportionate reduction in twist for double yarn, wherein the spinning process includes following steps:
(i) opening and blending the fibers in a blow room with optimized beating conditions;
(ii) carding the fibers to remove neps and improve fiber parallelization;
(iii) drawing the sliver using a draw frame to improve fiber alignment, uniformity, and reduce hooks;
(iv) combing the fibers to remove short fibers, enhancing yarn smoothness and strength; and
(v) speed-framing to produce roving with an optimized TM and controlled half-lea strength;
(vi) performing ring spinning with a controlled drafting system, by adjusting following particulars:
(i) an optimized spinning triangle is maintained to minimize hairiness by using a compacting system within the drafting system; and,
(ii) compacting system optimizes fiber arrangement to achieve a balance between reduced hairiness, enhanced parallelization, and controlled low twist,
(c) optionally applying a sizing agent to the low-twist yarn to improve weaveability, wherein:
(i) applying of predetermined size pickup percentage based on fabric type;
(ii) removing applied size through a mild treatment without requiring harsh chemical treatments, ensuring environmental sustainability,
(d) weaving the low-twist yarn into a fabric structure with a predetermined density and pattern to enhance bulkiness and more air spaces, using a weaving process adapted for both flat cloth and terry cloth applications;
(e) wet processing the woven fabric through a controlled relaxation and softening treatment, includes following steps:
(i) applying steam treatment under controlled temperature conditions to enhance softness and reduce snarling;
(ii) subjecting the fabric to an enzymatic or chemical treatment to improve surface smoothness;
(iii) inducing mechanical agitation or air washing to enhance fiber openness, bulkiness, and flexibility,
(f) drying and finishing the fabric under optimized conditions, includes following steps:
(i) conducting hot air drying at a controlled temperature to prevent over-shrinkage; and
(ii) performing calendering or compacting to adjust thickness and surface smoothness.
4. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fiber material comprises cotton with an effective fiber length of at least 28 mm, a fiber fineness between 3.8 to 4.1 Micronaire, and a reflectance (Rd) value of at least 70, ensuring enhanced softness and bulkiness.
5. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fiber material comprises synthetic fibers such as rayon or polyester, with a fiber length of at least 32 mm and a denier per filament (DPF) ranging from 0.8 to 2.0 D, optimizing fiber alignment for enhanced softness.
6. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein 66% of the single yarn twist is used in double yarn, thereby achieving lower twist while maintaining strength.
7. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the spinning triangle is adjusted such that the width (WS) and length (L) are maintained in an optimized ratio, reducing hairiness and improving yarn uniformity.
8. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the compacting system in the ring frame drafting system enhances fiber parallelization, reducing entanglement and improving yarn smoothness.
9. The method as claimed in any of the claims 2 or 3, wherein the sizing agent is applied with a pickup percentage of 7% to 10% for ground warp and 3% to 5% for pile warp in terry cloth, ensuring controlled tensile properties without excessive stiffness.
10. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the weaving process is conducted on an air-jet loom for increased efficiency, ensuring uniform fabric structure and minimizing mechanical stress on the yarn.
11. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fabric undergoes steam treatment at the winding stage to stabilize the yarn and reduce snarling, improving yarn handling in subsequent processes.
12. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the wet processing is optimized by eliminating harsh treatment in desizing and instead using a mild treatment, reducing environmental impact and maintaining fabric integrity.
13. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fabric structure allows moisture vapor transmission of at least 3000 g/m²/day as per ASTM E-96-05, ensuring enhanced breathability and comfort.
14. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the final terry fabric exhibits an absorbency of at least 80% for terry cloth with a GSM of 500 or higher, and an absorption time of less than 1 second for flat cloth, making it suitable for high-performance applications.
15. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fabric retains its softness and bulkiness even after the application of additional functional finishes such as antimicrobial treatment, water repellence, or stain resistance.
16. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the finished fabric is used for the production of luxury bedding, bath textiles, terry towel, baby garments, high-performance active wear, bathrobes, and apparels, owing to its superior softness, breathability, and durability.
Dated this 05 April, 2024