Description: FORM2
THE PATENTS ACT 1970 (39 of 1970)
&

THE PATENT RULES, 2003 COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See Section 10 and Rule 13)

1. TITLE OF THE INVENTION

“MILANZO” A HIGHLY ABSORBENT COTTON COMPOSITE WITH MULTI-FUNCTIONAL CERTIFIED RECYCLED POLYESTER BLENDED YARN DE- TWISTED WITH WATER SOLUBLE YARN TO MAKE IT TWIST LESS AND ITS METHODS OF PRODUCTION.”

2. APPLICANT (S)

(a) NAME: GOLDEN TERRY TOWEL PRIVATE LIMITED
(b) NATIONALITY: INDIAN
(c) ADDRESS: 671 KATRA NEEL CHANDNI CHOWK, NEW DELHI, DELHI, INDIA, 110006

3. . PREAMBLE TO THE DESCRIPTION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed.

“MILANZO” A HIGHLY ABSORBENT COTTON COMPOSITE WITH MULTI-FUNCTIONAL CERTIFIED RECYCLED POLYESTER BLENDED YARN DE- TWISTED WITH WATER SOLUBLE YARN TO MAKE IT TWIST LESS AND ITS METHODS OF PRODUCTION.”

FIELD OF INVENTION:
The present invention discloses to process for making composite yarn suitable for making mélange effect. Especially, the invention is directed at producing super absorbent “MILANZO “hydrophilic, super soft terry towel. The present invention also describes the process of salt free dyeing of towel fabric in single bath. In particular, the invention is directed at producing Mélange yarn which have high wettability, easy dry ability, quick absorbency and increased thickness.

BACK GROUND OF INVENTION:

The word “Milanzo” refers to the super absorbent mélange effect terry towel generally made form cotton polyester composite yarn made by combining cotton and recycled PET polyester with modified cross section. Cotton is most widely used natural cellulosic polymer and polyester is synthetic polymer. The use of polyester is increasing gradually day by day due to its strength, longevity and color fastness, while the cotton fiber. As natural resources decrease, synthetic yarn become more popular owing to increase in global demand of textile products. Polyester is one of the most widely consumed of all fibers. Polyester fibers have many positive properties like moisture management, light weight, high strength, durability, dimensional stability, abrasion resistance, color fastness and quick drying. A cotton polyester composite terry towel made by combining cotton and recycled PET polyester with modified cross section. Cotton and polyester are two popular fibers in the textile industry and are known for their seaming opposite qualities. One is natural and other is synthetic. in an attempt to create a material that combine all the benefits of each material and balance their unfavorable characteristic. The mix of cotton and polyester brings out the best characteristics of each fiber. cotton polyester composite twist less yarns are soft, breathable, moisture absorbent like cotton, and at the same time, inherit the durability from polyester. The 80: 20 cottons: polyester blend is ideal. It combines the breathable softness of cotton with the durability and fade resistance of polyester. The high 80 % proportion of cotton lends breathability, softness and airflow when woven into towel. This makes towel and toweling cloth comfortable against the skin. Cotton also absorbs big amount of moisture, keeping light perspiration away from body. the 20% polyester which is multi-functional adds wrinkle resistance, shape retention, stretch and quickness to dry. The polyester also strengthens the material so seams and towel and toweling fabric last longer compared to 100 % cotton towels, the composite towels stand up better to frequent wearing and cleaning. The cross- sectional shape of polyester fibers has an essential effect on the bending rigidity, abrasion resistance, handle, dyeing, friction, thermal comfort, strength and surface properties of yarns. The fiber’s cross-sectional shape and its related results also affects the properties of yarn and towel made from it. Specially engineered to impart unique fiber profile, it is like plus sign. Milanzo yarn made from cotton polyester works in three steps,
1. transport moisture to fabric outer surface
2. spreads moisture over larger area
3. moisture evaporates swiftly keeping the towel dry
the main objective of the invention is to increase the moisture wicking, absorbent properties with resources. moisture wicking is depended on the type of fibre and their cross-section, nature of yarn used and its construction etc. due to composite of two opposite quality fiber it is possible to increase the wicking properties of yarn. Cotton composite fabrics are normally dyed by two bath or one bath two step dyeing. Milanzo towel is dispersed dyed, in preferred choice cotton is remain scoured to reduce water foot print. The term “Disperse dye “have been applied to the organic coloring substances which are free from ionizing group, are low water solubility and are suitable for dyeing hydrophobic fibers. The dyeing of hydrophobic fibers like polyester fibers with disperse dyes may be considered as a process of dye transfer from liquid like cotton to a solid organic solvent like polyester fibers.

OBJECTIVE OF THE INVENTION

Therefore, the objective of the invention is to provide a method of making a yarn that can used to make super absorbent, quick dry mélange twist less terry towel with improved material efficiencies, absorbency, softness and uniformity of mélange effect. Main objective of the invention is to differently approach to water management to reduce water foot print. As compare to 100 % cotton dyeing Milanzo consumed one third water in its manufacturing process. The blending of different fibers can create variations in texture within the yarn, resulting in a fabric with a distinctive look and feel. Depending on the fibers used in the blend, Melange yarn can offer a soft and comfortable texture. The colour variations in Melange yarn add depth and interest to terry woven fabrics, making them visually appealing and unique.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present innovation relates to composite pile yarn made from cotton and recycled polyester to make unique melange effect. Pile yarn contains recycled PET polyester with modified cross section. By using process of doubling in two for one machine in spinning cotton composite yarn and PVA with twist in reverse direction of cotton yarn leaving to residual only few twists. Pile yarn de- twisted with PVA is weaving friendly. Water soluble fibers Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA fibers) is a water-soluble synthetic polymer. It has the idealized formula [CH2CH(OH)] n when added to hot water, PVA, dissolves, forming a homogeneous aqueous solution rather than undergoing a chemical reaction out during dyeing. A process describes wherein blended pile yarn is woven with cotton or cotton blended with polyester warp and weft to produce towel. After weaving when PVA dissolve a porous, high air space produced through the pile yarn corresponding to an increase of surface area which increase the bulkiness, softness of towel. Polyester in the pile yarn helps to transport moisture to outer surface of terry fabric so the moisture spreads over larger area and thus moisture evaporates quickly. This fabric then processed in disperse dye keeping cotton remain undyed, scoured. The main purpose of scouring is to eliminate natural and artificial impurities form the fabric, making it cleaner and more absorbent.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DIAGRAM

Fig.1: Fig. 1 shows Yarn Process Flow.
Fig.2: Fig. 2 shows Unique Fibre Profile.
Fig.3: Fig. 3 shows Regular Fibre Cross Section.
Fig.4: Fig. 4 shows Cross Section of Terry Weave.
Fig.5: Fig. 5 shows Basic Three Pick Terry Weave.
Fig.6: Fig. 6 shows Three-Dimensional View of Terry Towel.

DETAIL DESCRIPTION OF INVENTION:

The present invention relates to pile yarn in terry woven fabric; this pile yarn contains defined percentage of recycled polyester. The fibers cross section is as shown in fig (2). A process is described wherein cotton composite pile yarn doubled and de twisted with PVA in reverse direction is woven with cotton or cotton composite with polyester warp and weft to produce terry towel. This fabric is then processed for its scouring and PVA removal in one bath. Impurities involve in cotton ranges from 4-6 %. In the process of scouring involves caustic soda (NaOH) which neutralise acidic materials, saponify glycerides (waxes and natural oils) and solubilize silicates. A typical dyeing process of reactive dye is pre-treatment, scouring and bleaching. dyeing bath, add dye, salt (to exhaust dye), and alkali (like soda ash) at temperature 60° C, fixation, minimum 30-60 minutes finally soaping and washing, to remove unfixed dyes. whereas suggested process of dyeing is with high temperature dyeing (130° c), to add disperse dyes dispersing agent for 30-60 minutes and reduction clearing to clean fabric using hydrosulphite and caustic to remove surface dye. Towel made from present innovation can absorb more than 80% of water contacting that yarn. By blending various percentage of polyester ranging from 20 % to 2 % we can achieve colour variation in melange yarn which add depth and interest to woven terry towel.

• Method of making the pile yarn:

The amount of twist in the yarn affects the properties of the towel products. The pile yarn is generally a low twist yarn. Pile loops provide maximum surface area for the absorption of water, and the low twist aids in the absorption by imparting wicking properties to the yarn. The cotton used for preferred embodiment of 13’s is S-6 having following parameters

A Grade with contamination control.
staple length 29-29.5 mm.
Micronaire ranges 3.8 to 4.5
mic NCL.
RD -77+
colours grade 21.-1 to 31.-1,
strength 30+ GPT.
short fiber index ranging less than 8%
moisture content 8.5 to9%.
The cotton that forms outer surface of the pile yarn or warp and weft yarn of terry fabric can be of any origin like s-6, mcu5, mech1, dch-32, j-34 Indian version of cotton or Egyptian, Australian cotton etc.
Polyester fiber properties used
Fineness (dtex) 1.33
Length in mm – 32
Tenacity – 63.6
Elongation % 16
Dry heat shrinkage % (196°c, 30 min) -6
Crims/ cm 4.3
Lustre – semi dull
Draw sliver and roving properties (as shown in Table 1)
Table 1
Drawn sliver Roving
raw materials % Um?? % CVm? % CVm1? % CVm3 % Um?? % CVm? % CVm1? % CVm3
80 % cotton 20 % poly 2.09 2.64 0.56 0.43 3.59 4.53 1.48 1.14

*% U = mean linear irregularity; % CVm = coefficient of variation of mass; % CVm (L) = coefficient of variation of mass at the cut length of L.

Fibers are first processed through a blow room in cotton spinning system. (As shown in fig 1) It is here that the fibers are made into slivers through the process of carding and use of draw frame. Sliver and roving specifications are provided in table 1. Cotton composite sliver is prepared by processing through the blow room, carding, after carding, the cotton sliver is subjected to combing to remove short fibers. The amount of noil, or fibers that are less than 13 mm, removed from range 8% to 24 % of the weight of the feed material. The yarn is spun in ring frames using the normal setting, all the setting parameters on ring frames are determined on type of cotton and polyester and percentage of their blending.

• Method of making towels

A terry fabric having a set of longitudinally oriented ground warp yarn pairs with normal warp tension, a set of longitudinally oriented pile warp yarns with loose warp tension, and a set of weft yarns oriented substantially perpendicular to the ground warp yarn pairs. As shown in fig (5) Terry towel is formed from three type of warp sheets. The first type of yarn is the ground warp. The ground warp is the longitudinal set of yarn forming the base fabric, the second type of yarn is the pile warp. The pile warp is placed in the longitudinal direction and produce the loops on the face, back or both directions. In normal embodiment the basic terry weave is 3 pick terry as shown in fig 4. Terry formation on terry loom can be 3,4,5, and 6 pick. Terry loop height can range from 4mm to 7 mm. loops per square inch is another essential aspect of terry to measure its quality more loops provide more surface area. Terry fabric can be made on any reed 48,52,56,58, or 60 depending on the construction and GSM of towel.

Pile loop provides a large surface area for maximizing the absorption of water. The third type of yarn is the weft yarn. The weft yarn is laid perpendicular to the pile yarn, and interlace with pile, ground to form the fabric or terry towel, as shown in fig (4) Cotton composite pile yarn having twist multiplier of 3.8 to 4.1 doubled with water soluble PVA in reverse direction to make base yarn twist up to 3 twist per inch. For example, 13’s cotton is having 14.4 twist in ‘z’ direction, after doubling with PVA yarn it is de twisted in “S “direction for 10.9 twist remaining base yarn is having only 3.5 twist per inch. woven Milanzo towel are generally thick, thicker the towel, the greater the surface area, and thus grater amount of water can be absorbed. When towel comes in contact with water because composite blend of unique polyester fiber profile water transport to outer surface of terry, it spreads over a larger area and evaporate fast to keep fabric remain dry. Thicker yarn or grater surface area is critical parameter of yarn that affect it properties like absorbency. Normally yarn used as pile yarn are medium coarser and ranges from Ne 6’s to 40 ’s in single as well as double ply. Water soluble fibers Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA fibers) is a water-soluble synthetic polymer. It has the idealized formula [CH2CH(OH)] n when added to hot water, PVA, dissolves, forming a homogeneous aqueous solution rather than undergoing a chemical reaction out during dyeing. On loom specifications (as shown in below in Table 2).
The properties of the fabric when it is removed from the loom grey towel Listed below as per Table 3.
Table 2
ON LOOM SPECIFICATION
RPM 450
FINISHED ENDS / INCH 25.4

PILE COUNT 2/19.34 C:P 80:20
GROUND COUNT 2/20 CARDED ( 8.5 TPI)
WEFT COUNT 14 'S OE ( 19.0 TPI)
FINISHED PICKS 41.65
FINISHED GSM 550

Table 3
GREIGE TOWEL SPECIFICATION
GREIGE WIDTH 88.83 CM
GREIGE LENGTH 137.75 CM
WEIGHT OF TOWEL 666 GMS
PILE RATIO ON LOOM 01:05.8
PILE HEIGHT 5.31 MM

After completion of weaving process per greige on loom specification as shown in table 2 and 3, the fabric roll is taken for scouring, pva removal and polyester dyeing in high temperature high pressure fabric dyeing. While this single bath operating temperature ranges from 80 °C to 130 °C. the liquor ratio of the material (weight) to water (volume) the liquor ratio is 1:6 for first bath then every bath is 1: 4 preferred.
Material is typically wound into the shape of rope prior to entering the HTHP fabric dyeing machine. After dyeing and washing, the liquor is drained and fresh water is injected for rinsing to eliminate all the colour residual, fabric is treated mild hypochlorite to clear the polyester residual colour from the fabric.

• Drying and straightening the fabric

After unloading the material from the washing and rinsing vessel, the material is hydro extracted in hydro-extractor in the standard manner to reduce the moisture from 200 % to 50-55%. A rope is passed through rope opener which is equipped with drumbeater both at feed and delivery ends, to straighten the twist in the rope. Then the material is passed through hot air tumbler, this is to ensure proper lifting of pile. the first drying is carried out at about 110 °C, second drying occurs at a higher temperature, such as 150 °C for about four min to 5 min. the full width fabric is then passed through hot air stenter and a weft straightener to straighten the fabric and return it to its proper dimensions.

• Conditioning

To ensures reduced linting during washing of towel subsequently, fabric is passed through shearing machine to clean only protruding fibers from the fabric. This process Is optional depending on the protruding fiber on the surface of towel. The fabric then carried through length cutting, length hemming, cross cutting, cross hemming, chocking folding and packing according to the standard practice

The “Milanzo “yarn in the loop pile warp and weft, has a large amount of air spaces within the yarn structure, which permits easy air circulation. The air space provides room to absorb and vaporize water. Thus, the fabric is highly absorbent and quick drying, having a decreased likelihood of mildew formation. Typically, the fabric is 30 % more absorbent and quick drying compared to normal towelling fabric. When tested sinking methods, the towelling fabric takes less than 4 second to absorb the water, in compared to other same weight towel made from 100 % cotton takes 8-10 seconds. Testing methods AATCC-79-2000 (American association of textile chemist and colonists). The AATCC-79-2000 is a test to measure the absorbency of bleached textiles is a standard test method, which can be applied to determine the suitability of a fabric / towelling cloth. Test involve to check sinking time required for a droplet of water. The results of the test are usually measured in the number of seconds that it takes for a drop of water to sink. The diminishing of droplet, until it vanishes entirely leaving a wet spot, is analysed for measuring the absorbency.

In the surface wetting methods, the towelling fabric absorbs 70 -80 % water compared to normal towelling fabric (using ASTM -D-4772). The ASTM D -4772 method measures the surface water absorption of terry fabric for bath towels, bath sheets, hand towels, kitchen towels, dish cloths wash cloths, beach wear, bathrobe and the like.to measure the amount of water completely absorbed by the specimen placed in an embroidery hoop at 60° angle. the amount is calculated in millilitres, by pouring 50 ml of distilled / demonized water and measuring the collected unabsorbed water in a beaker placed at bottom of the inclined frame. in the socking method, where the sample is totally immersed in water, taken out to drip and then weighed, the sample weighs 4 times its original weight; in other words, 400 % absorption.

• Pile yarn manufacturing parameters

The polyester used in this example is 1.2 den 34 mm Relan ™ kooltex, it is specially engineered unique fiber profile and S-6 of Indian origin with staple length of 29 to 29.5 mm, Micronaire of 3.8 to 4.5, fiber strength of 30 Gtex (gram per tax) uniformity ratio 45-47 % and short fiber index 4 to 6. The cotton and polyester fibers were blended to produce a pile yarn containing 80 % S-6 combed (18 % noil) and 20 % Kooltex polyester.
The spinning process parameters and yarn properties for cotton; wool pile yarn is described below
Cotton sliver preparation combed, cotton used for the preferred embodiment of 13’s is S-6, 29 TO 29.5 MM Micronaire: 3.8 TO 4.5 fibers strength.28-30 gtex Uniformity ration 45 to 47%, short fibers index 4 to 6 %.

The cotton is processed from mixing and blow room through to carding where the fibers are individualized. The cotton sliver from carding is then processed through a breaker drawing. Since combing is necessary to remove short fibers, the draw frame slivers are processed through unilap machine with 24 doubling and formed into a lap of 75 gms/ mtr. The lap is processed on the combing machine. The extracted noil is 18%. The combed polyester -cotton sliver is than passed through a finisher draw frame. Twisting and winding on the bobbin on speed frame is normal as with any other cotton system.

• Ring spinning:

Blended roving produce on the speed frame is then spun into yarn on the cotton ring spinning frame. In the preferred embodiment Ne 11’S and spun into yarn with 13.2 TPI with ‘z’ twist.
The yarn from ring frame bobbin is wound into large packages on the winding machine to make cone ready for warping in weaving preparatory.
Doubling with PVA: further cotton composite 11’s is double with water soluble pva (80 Ne) and de twisted it with 9.7 “s” twist.

Yarn parameters:

Average count: 11.00 Average lea strength: 208 lbs.
CSP (count strength product) 2700 Count CV % 1.32
Strength CV % 5.03 Average TPI: 13.50 AVERAGE U % 8.46
THIN PLACES/KM (-50%): 0.1
THICK PLACES/KM (+50%) 8.9
NEPS /KM (+200)-9.0
TOTAL IMPERFACTION /KM 17.9 HAIRINESS INDEX 9.3
AVERAGE BREAK FORCE (GMS):634 AVERAGE RKM (nm/kgt)-15.77
RKM CV: 9.60
Elongation at break -5.81 Elongation CV % -9.3

ADVANTAGE OF INNOVATION

Air space created cotton polyester composite yarn is used during manufacturing. In comparison with normal ring spun yarn 8-20 % more air pockets created by de-twisting with water soluble yarn. Milanzo towel manufacturing is very energy efficient if we compare it dyeing process with cotton dyeing it takes one third water and time cycle to complete it, without any salt used in process. The textile dyeing involves colorant which are used to add colour to textile goods. Cotton dyeing with reactive dyes is susceptible to sun damage and colours are quick to fade. Disperse dyes are resistance to both fading and shrinking the greater the amount of free air space available within the yarn, the quicker and more complete the absorption of the water. The Milanzo yarn in the loop pile warp and weft, has a large amount of air spaces within the yarn structure, which permits easy air circulation. Air permeability as per ISO 9237, air permeability of towel made with 100 % cotton same weight and GSM towel is average 132 to 144 mm/ second which is increased to 184 to194 mm/ second. Profile polyester helps to manage moisture. The air space provides room to absorb and vaporize water. Thus, the fabric is highly absorbent and quick drying. In the surface wetting methods, the towelling fabric absorbs 75 -83 % water compared to normal towelling fabric (using ASTM -D-4772). when tested sinking methods, the towelling fabric takes less then 4 seconds to absorb the water, whereas similar construction towel made from normal ring spun towel takes 8 to seconds.

When tested sinking methods, the towelling fabric takes less than 4 seconds to absorb the water, whereas other towel takes 10 seconds or more. It takes less drying time in comparison with same weight towel made from normal ring spun yarn. Using AATCC198 Horizontal wicking methods, Average wicking rate is improved from .95 to 1.02 mm² / second.

WE CLAIM

1. A terry fabric made with a set of longitudinally oriented ground warp yarn pairs under normal tension, a set of longitudinally oriented pile warp yarns under loose tension and a set of weft yarns oriented substantially perpendicular to the ground warp yarn pairs.
2. Terry fabric claim, wherein the Milanzo pile which is cotton composite polyester yarn de twisted with water soluble yarn used. Milanzo yarn has weight per unit length between 10- 20 % less than a towel made from similar diameter and twist and twist per inch but not as per Milanzo specification.
3. The terry fabric claim that towel is made from cotton polyester composite pile yarn.
4. Terry fabric claim that weft and ground consist of cotton fibres.
5. Terry fabric claims that pile yarn has English number (Ne) from 6 to 40 in single ply as well as double ply.
6. Terry fabric claims wherein pile height of terry more than 4 mm.
7. Terry fabric claims wherein pile height of terry less than 7 mm.
8. Terry fabric claim wherein terry fabric has a water droplet sinking measured according to ATCC -79 of less than 3 sec.
9. Terry fabric claim, where in the terry fabric has a surface water absorption measured according to ASTM D-4772 of 75 to 83%.
10. Terry fabric claim, wherein terry fabric having greater than 40 picks per inch.
, Claims:1. A terry fabric made with a set of longitudinally oriented ground warp yarn pairs under normal tension, a set of longitudinally oriented pile warp yarns under loose tension and a set of weft yarns oriented substantially perpendicular to the ground warp yarn pairs.
2. Terry fabric claim, wherein the Milanzo pile which is cotton composite polyester yarn de twisted with water soluble yarn used. Milanzo yarn has weight per unit length between 10- 20 % less than a towel made from similar diameter and twist and twist per inch but not as per Milanzo specification.
3. The terry fabric claim that towel is made from cotton polyester composite pile yarn.
4. Terry fabric claim that weft and ground consist of cotton fibres.
5. Terry fabric claims that pile yarn has English number (Ne) from 6 to 40 in single ply as well as double ply.
6. Terry fabric claims wherein pile height of terry more than 4 mm.
7. Terry fabric claims wherein pile height of terry less than 7 mm.
8. Terry fabric claim wherein terry fabric has a water droplet sinking measured according to ATCC -79 of less than 3 sec.
9. Terry fabric claim, where in the terry fabric has a surface water absorption measured according to ASTM D-4772 of 75 to 83%.
10. Terry fabric claim, wherein terry fabric having greater than 40 picks per inch.