FIELD OF INVENTION:
The present invention relates, in general, to natural skin care formulations. More specifically the present invention relates to natural skin care formulation for skin whitening purposes, reducing pimples and inhibiting melanin production and a process for the preparation thereof
BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART:
Mulberry leaves are thin, glossy and light green in color. The shape of the mulberry leaf can be quite variable even on the same tree. Some leaves have 5 lobes while others have one lobe, two lobes, three lobes or no lobes at all. The mulberry plant has been highly regarded in traditional Chinese and Japanese medicine. It may possess blood sugar lowering effects in animal studies. Preliminary human studies have confirmed its benefits in both preventing and treating type 2 diabetes. Mulberry leaf has a substance called moranoline (1-deoxynojirimycin) that inhibits an enzyme in the intestinal tract (alpha-glucosidase) involved in the digestion of carbohydrates. Moranoline holds back complex carbohydrates, starches, maltose and sucrose from breaking down into glucose. Anthocyanins contribute to the red or dark purple color of mulberry fruits. Anthocyanins provide antioxidant activity, cardiovascular protection and antiviral activity as health benefits. Mulberries are also a source of resveratrol which functions as an antioxidant.
Mulberry silkworm i.e. Bombyx mori nourishes its nutrition from its sole food plant i.e. Moms alba. Various biochemical techniques have facilitated sericulture in identifying the most nutritive mulberry variety for obtaining eminent silk. A deficiency of certain nutrients or an imbalance of nutrients in leaves causes some changes in the composition or metabolic activity of larval body (Ito, 1972). Leaves at different mulberry varieties namely S-1, S-13, S-1635, S-146,TR-10,K-2 and Mysore local grown under the agro-climate condition of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh were analyzed for two nutritive contents i.e. total carbohydrates, crude protein. Protein contents in K-2 (0.284mg/gm)and least value of protein content inTR-10(0.109mg/gm) and in bottom leaves high value of protein content inS-146(0.208mg/gm) and least value of protein content in TR-10(0.128mg/gm) and more carbohydrate content were showed in TR-10 apical leaf (0.476mg/gm) and
least value of carbohydrate content in S-l(0.292mg/gm) in apical leaf while in middle leaves more carbohydrate content inTR-10(0.547mg/gm)and least value inS-1635(0.257mg/gm) and in bottom leaves carbohydrate content in S-1635(0.546mg/gm) and least value in S-146(0.246mg/gm) (Ref. Anshul Srivastava and Vadamalai Elangovan Department of Applied Animal Sciences, Babasaheb Bhimrao Ambedkar University (A Central University,2011).
Now a day, research is more focused on preparing the skin care compositions of herbal extract which are safe on the skin and can be easily applied. Mulberry either alone or in combination with other herbs is also being used for preparation of various skin care compositions and other products. Reference may be made to the following-Publication no. JP2009280541 (A) relates to the skin lightening cosmetic containing a sugar chain nutrient, which comprises allophane and a sugar chain-constituting monosaccharide as principal ingredients.
Publication no. CN101209284 (A) relates to the method of taking mulberry leaves as the raw materials to continuously extract the active ingredients of alkaloids, flavonoids and polysaccharides.
US Publication no. 20110130352 (A) relates to the use of the effective fraction of alkaloids from mulberry twig for preparation of hypoglycemic agents.
Publication no. CN1 742803 (A) relates to Chinese medicine extract with action of reducing blood sugar. It is composed of polysaccharides, flavones and alkaloids obtained by separating and extracting mulberry leaf, mulberry twig and mulberry root bark.
Publication no. CN101450052 (A) relates to the application for extracting natural compound from black mulberry. The compound has strong inhibition effect for tyrosinase and is applied for preventing skin mottle, freckle, senile plaque or the like skin chromatosis and whitening, and the compound is a food additive.
Polysaccharides play important roles in physiological and pathological effects. Experiments were conducted to compare various methods of polysaccharides extracted from a mulberry leaf using the orthotropic test and then to determine the optimum extraction conditions. The antioxidant activity and antibacterial ability of mulberry polysaccharides were also evaluated.
In this study, the optimum extraction conditions of mulberry polysaccharides were determined to be a ratio of mulberry leaf to water solution of 1:40 (w/v) for 1 h at 80C. Under these optimum conditions, a polysaccharide yield (11.3%) was obtained. Furthermore, the most effective enzymatic removal of proteins from mulberry polysaccharides was achieved using 2.5% protease for a 2.5-h reaction at 40C, with 73.2% of the protein removal proportion and 86.4% of the polysaccharide proportion, while application of active carbon was the best treatment to remove pigments present in mulberry polysaccharides, with 81.4% of the pigment removal proportion and 71.7% of the polysaccharide proportion. In addition, the antioxidant activity and bactericidal ability of mulberry polysaccharides were evaluated. This study indicated that mulberry polysaccharides exhibited an obvious antioxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner and distinct antibacterial ability (Fang Wang, College of Food Science and Biotechnology Engineering Zhejiang Gongshang University Hangzhou, The People's Republic of China, January 17,2008).
However, available cosmetics using mulberry extracts are limited to sunscreen products and nourishing day and night creams with small quantities of Mulberry extract. The present invention is focused on preparing a skin care composition from mulberry and apamarga extract which is safe on skin and can be easily applied. It formulated in the form of whitening cream or in the form of powder which can be applied as face pack on the face for removing dark pigments and pimples without showing any side effects.
OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION:
The principal object of the present invention is to provide a skin care formulation prepared from the bioactive extract of mulberry leaves and apamarga.
Another object of the invention is to provide a herbal skin care formulations that do not contain any components harmful to the skin.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a skin care formulation prepared from the extract of mulberry leaves and apamarga which is effective for pimples and skin whitening.
Still another object of the present invention is to provide a more effective skin care formulation that is suitable for external application.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a skin care formulation prepared from the extract of mulberry leaves and apamarga to prevent or inhibit the formation of melanin in the skin and thus whitening the skin.
Still another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic skin care formulation that is ecofriendly and is economically viable.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION:
Accordingly, the present invention relates to the skin care formulation for topical use that has a skin whitening purpose, reduces pimples and softens the skin.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a novel herbal skin care formulation comprising the bioactive extract of Mulberry (Bombyx mori) leaf and Apamarga {Achyranthes aspera) for inhibiting the melanin formation and pimples and thus increases the skin-whitening is provided.
In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, a method is provided to extract the active ingredient from Mulberry (Bombyx mori) leaves comprising the steps of- (a) collecting, crushing and grounding the fresh mulberry leaves, (b) extracting with 80% alcohol, at 35°C with rotation, thrice, each of 3 hours, (c) filtering the filtrate, mixing all the fractions and distilling-out the alcohol at 40°C, under vacuum, (d) extracting the aqueous phase with 100ml chloroform, (e) separating and concentrating the aqueous phase at 50°C to dryness, in rota vaporator, using vacuum (f) drying the dried mass further at 50°C, under vacuum oven for 12 hours to obtain yellow brown free flowing powder, highly hygroscopic in nature which is immediately packed in nitrogen atmosphere for further use in formulation.
In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, a method is provided to extract the active ingredient from apamarga comprising the steps of: (a) extracting mulberry leaf with 80%(v/v) of alcohol and apamarga with water at 35°C with rotation using Rami Stirrers for 3 hours, (b) filtering of the extract
through filter cloths and concentrating the filtrate to dryness in rotary evaporator using vacuum and finally (c) grounding and sieving the dried mass through 60 mesh, obtaining a black brown free flowing powder which is stored at nitrogen atmosphere immediately for further use in formulation.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the bioactive extract of mulberry comprises carbohydrate and glycosides which are effective against pimples and reduce the melanin formation.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the bioactive extract of apamarga comprises monosaccharides and carbohydrates which are effective against acne.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the skin care cream formulation in the form of cream is prepared by using bioactive extract from mulberry leaf, apamarga, Aloe vera and mixed with steric acid, lenolic acid, ascorbic acid and lutein esters (from marigold flowers). Mathyl patiaben and propyl paraben are used as preservative. The cream is effective for facial toning, decreasing dark pigments, and curing pimples as well as spots due to pimples within 15 days, if used twice a day, after cleaning the face.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the bioactive extract prepared can be formulated in the form of powder for facial pack, cream or emulsion.
In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the skin care formulation in the form of powder packed in a nitrogen atmosphere can be used for making facial pack for skin whitening and pimple reduction by mixing both the powders with 5 ml water (highly soluble) and can be applied on face for 15-20 minutes. The face when rinsed with sufficient quantity of water shows better results with more glows on the face and reduced pimples. It can also be utilized as facial pack with milk and honey.
In an embodiment of the present invention, the prepared skin care formulation according to the present invention is not a mere aggregate of the properties of the
individual ingredients but is a synergistic composition showing surprising and unexpected properties in skin care and improving skin whitening effect.
In still another embodiment of the present invention, wherein the skincare formulation is stable for minimum 2 years and maximum 3 years.
In yet another embodiment of the invention, the skin care formulation is useful for skin whitening effect and helps in reducing pimples and acne problems and also tones the face skin.
In still another embodiment of the present invention the skin care composition of the formulation is new, very safe, eco-friendly and does not produce any harmful effects.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS:
It is to be noted, however, that the appended drawings illustrate only typical embodiments of this invention and are therefore not to be considered for limiting of its scope, for the invention may admit to other equally effective embodiments. Figure 1 illustrates the TLC of Mulberry leaf at 254 nm. Figure 2 illustrates the TLC of Mulberry leaf extract at 365nm
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION:
In the present invention, the herbal skin care formulation comprising the leaf extract of mulberry and apamarga is effectively used to reduce the pimples and acne problems. It can be easily applied on the face for skin whitening effect and helps in reducing the dark pigmentation and melanin production. The skin care formulation can be formulated in the form of herbal face pack of in the form of cream. The stability of the product is at least 2 years.
Morus is a genus of flowering plants in the family Moraceae. The 10-16 species of deciduous trees it contains are commonly known as Mulberries.The closely related genus Broussonetia is also commonly known as mulberry, notably the Paper Mulberry, Broussonetia papyrifera. Mulberries are swift-growing when young, but soon become slow-growing and rarely exceed 10-15 m (33—49 ft) tall.
The leaves are alternately arranged, simple, often lobed, more often lobed on juvenile shoots than on mature trees and serrated on the margin.
The fruit is a multiple fruit, 2-3 cm (0.79-1.2 in) long. The fruits when immature are white or green to pale yellow with pink edges. In most species, the fruits art; red when they are ripening, turning dark purple to black and have a sweet flavor. The fruits of the white-fruited cultivar of the white mulberry are green when young and white when ripe; the fruit in this cultivar is also sweet but has a very mild flavor compared with the darker variety.
Mulberry is a common ingredient in many skin care creams due to its antioxidant powers. Claims are that it provides rejuvenation and a youthful glow. Instead of rubbing costly creams filled with chemicals onto your skin, you can get the same health benefits and more by purchasing a basket of mulberries at your local supermarket at a fraction of the cost.
Mulberries are rich in vitamin A, potassium, phosphorus and calcium. In addition, mulberries contain the highest levels of antioxidants of any berries. Antioxidants protect the body from harmful oxidation of free radicals.
Topical Uses
Mulberry-infused oils in olive oil or coconut oil for several days can be used in lotions or salves for dry, irritated skin. Mulberries can also be used in baths in the form of bath salts or soaps. Traditional Chinese medicine includes mulberry leaves in a hot bath or sauna. The leaves help open skin pores and detoxify the body while the steam enhances sweating and regulates metabolism.
Apamarga (Achyranthes aspera) has been described as a divine medicine in the Vedas. Acharya Charaka was so much convinced of its efficacy that in his famous work Charak Samhita, he specially gave the name of one of its chapters after the great herb. Apamarga grows in plenty in wasteland and by the roadsides throughout the Indian subcontinent. It is more commonly known as puthkanda. Achyrantes aspera Linn - Chirchira is an erect herb, 0.3-1 meter high with stiff branches terete or absolutely quadrangular, striate, pubescent, leaves few, usually
thick, elliptic-obovate, petiolate, acute and entire. Flowers are greenish white, numerous in small dense auxiliary heads or spikes, bracts and bracteoles persisting ending in a spine. Main root is long cylindrical thick; secondary and tertiary roots present slightly ribbed, yellowish brown in color; odor is slight, taste is slightly sweet and mucilaginous; stem is yellow brownish, erect branched, cylindrical hairy about 60 cm high. Seeds are sub cylindrical, truncats at apex, rounded at base, black and shining. The plant is distributed through out India up to an altitude of 3000ft. Herbs are vital source of drugs from the ancient time holding the scenario of the Indian system of medicine. Achyrantes aspera Linn., known as Chirchira in Hindi, is an indigenous herb found in India. Chirchira is the basic composition of many traditional remedies. The present paper enumerates the ethnopharmacognostic, ethnopharmacologic, traditional value and folk remedies of this herb, which may help the researchers to set their minds for approaching the utility, efficacy and potency of herb. According to Ayurveda, it is bitter, pungent, heating, laxative, stomachic, carminative and useful for the treatment of vomiting, bronchitis, heart disease, piles, itching abdominal pains, ascites, dyspepsia, dysentery, blood diseases etc. (Bhandari, 1990; Dwivedi et. al., 2007)
The invention is described in detail with reference to the example given below. The example is provided just to illustrate the invention and therefore, should not be construed to limit the scope of the invention.
Example 1
Preparation of bioactive extract of Mulberry leaves
Example 1A
200 gm Mulberry (Bombyx mori) leaves , freshly collected from Noida, Gotam Budda District, UP, India, were crushed and ground, and extracted with 80% alcohol,600ml, at 35°C with rotation, thrice , each of 3 hours. Filtering the filterate and mix all the fractions and distill-out the alcohol at 40°C, under vacuum. The aqueous phase was extracted with 100ml chloroform, which was separated and concentrated at 50 °C to dryness, in rota vaporator, using vacuum. The dried mass was dried further at 50 °C, under vacuum oven for 12 hours. 3.5 gm yellow brown free flowing powder, highly hygroscopic in nature was obtained. This was immediately packed in nitrogen atmosphere.
Example 1B
500 gm Mulberry (Bombyx mori) leaves , freshly collected from Noida, Gotam Budda District, UP, India, were crushed and ground, and extracted with 80% alcohol,1.5L, at 35°C with rotation, thrice , each of 3 hours. Filtering the filterate and mixed all the fractions and distill-out the alcohol at 40°C, under vacuum. The aqueous phase was extracted with 200ml chloroform, separated and concentrated at 50 °C to dryness, in rota vaporator, using vacuum. The dried mass was further dried at 50 °C, under vacuum oven for 12 hours. 8.92 gm yellow brown free flowing powder, highly hygroscopic in nature was obtained. This was immediately packed in a nitrogen atmosphere.
Example 1C
500 gm Mulberry {Bombyx mori) leaves, freshly collected from Noida, Gotam Budda District, UP, India, were crushed and ground and extracted with 80% alcohol, 1.5L, at 35°C with rotation, thrice, each of 3 hours. Filtering out the filterate and mixed all the fractions and distill-out the alcohol at 40°C, under vacuum. The aqueous phase was extracted with 200ml chloroform, separated and concentrated at 50 °C to dryness, in rota vaporator, using vacuum. The dried mass was dried further at 50 °C, under vacuum oven for 12 hours.9.03 gm yellow brown free flowing powder, highly hygroscopic in nature was obtained. This was immediately packed in nitrogen atmosphere.
TLC Analysis:
TLC profile (Fig 1), using mobile phase, chloroform: methanol; water::65: 35: 0.5, spots were developed with 10% H2SO4, after heating at 110°C, strongly supports the presence of glycosides. The carbohydrates were detected by addition of anthrone reagent in the aqueous solution of the extract, resulting in green color, having λmax at 625 nm, and content was calculated against standard sugar solution (Dextrose L).
Example 2
Preparation of bioactive extract of Apamarga extract
Example 2A
2.0kg aerial parts of plant material of Apamarga (Achyranthes aspera Linn) were
fieshly collected in and around Amity University Campus, Sector-125 Noida, UP,
India, These were washed with distilled water. Achyranthes aspera aerial parts (Panchang) was ground and extracted with distilled water, at rotation, using Rami Stirrers for 3 hours, each thrice, at room temperature. The extract was filtered through the filter cloth. The filtrate was concentrated to dryness in rotary evap)orator, using vacuum and finally in vacuum oven, at 70°C, ground, sieved through 60 meshes. 48 gm of free flowing black brown powder was obtained and was packed in nitrogen atmosphere.
Example 2B
1.0kg aerial parts of plant material of Apamarga {Achyranthes aspera Linn) were freshly collected in and around Amity University Campus, Sector-125 Noida, UP, India. These were washed with distilled water. Achyranthes aspera aerial parts (Panchang) was ground and extracted with distilled water, at rotation, using Rami Stirrers for 3 hours, each thrice, at room temperature. The extract was filtered through a filter cloth.The filtrate was concentrated to dryness in rotary evaporator, using vacuum and finally in vacuum oven, at 70°C, ground, sieved through 60 mesh, 24.9gm gm free flowing black brown powder was obtained and packed in nitrogen atmosphere.
Example 2C
2.50 kg aerial parts of plant material of Apamarga {Achyranthes aspera Linn) were freshly collected in and around Amity University Campus, Sector-125 Noida, UP, India. These Were washed with distilled water. Achyranthes aspera aerial parts (Panchang) was ground and extracted with distilled water, at rotation, using Rami Stirrers for 3 hours, each, thrice, at room temperature. The extract was filtered through the filter cloth and the filtrate was concentrated to dryness in rotary evaporator, using vacuum and finally in vacuum oven, at 70°C, ground and sieved through 60 mesh. 72.8 gm of free flowing black brown powder was obtained which was packed in nitrogen atmosphere.
Analysis
1.0gm extract boiled in 30 ml distilled water, filtered,
(i). 1 ml of filtrate + 1 ml of Molisch's reagent + 1 ml conc. H2SO4. A reddish
ring indicates the presence of carbohydrate.

(ii). 1 ml filtrate + 2 ml of Fehling's solution + boiled for 5 min. A brick red precipitate indicates the presence of reducing sugars.
(iii). 1 ml filtrate + 1 ml Barfoed's reagent + heat. A red precipitate indicates the presence of monosaccharide.
Example 3
Preparation of cream formulation using mulberry leaf and apamarga extract The aforesaid bioactive extract of mulberry and apamarga was used with 5% concentration on a cream using cream base steric acid and lenolic acid, having 2% (wt/ v) Aloe vera, 02% L- ascorbic acid and 2% lutein esters. 0.051 to 0.1% ( wt /wt) of Methyl paraben and propyl paraben respectively were used as preservative. The cream was effective for facial toning, decreasing dark pigments, and curing pimples as well as spots due to pimples with 15 days, using twice a day, after cleaning the face.
ADVANTAGES OF THE PRESENT INVENTION
1. The product composition is safe for use topically and the components used in the formulation are of natural origin and does not produce any adverse effect on the skin.
2. The product is ecofriendly and economically viable.
3. No harmful components are used which ultimately spoil the skin
Numerous modifications and adaptations of the system of the present invention will be apparent to those skilled in the art, and thus it is intended by the appended claims to cover all snch modifications and adaptations which fall within the true spirit and scope of this invention.

WE CLAIM:
1. An herbal skin care formulation for therapeutic and cosmetic applications comprising the following ingredients: (a) bioactive extract of Mulberry (Bombyx mori) leaf and Apamarga (Achyranthes asperd) (b) a base containing an aqueous cream containing steric acid and lenolic acid, having Aloe vera, ascorbic acid and lutein esters (c) Methyl paraben and propyl paraben as preservative; and (d) the balance being water.
2. The herbal skin care formulation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the formulation comprises bioactive extract of mulberry and apamarga with 5% concentration on a cream using cream base steric acid and lenolic acid, having 2% (wt/ v) Aloe vera, 0.2% L- ascorbic acid and 2% lutein esters.
3. The herbal skin care formulation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the preservative methyl paraben and propyl paraben ranges between 0.051 to 0.1% ( wt /w1), respectively.
4. The herbal skin care formulation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the formulation is selected from the group consisting of powder, cream, lotion, gel and emulsion.
5. The herbal skin care formulation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the active ingredient from Mulberry (Bombyx mori) leaves comprising the steps of- (a) collecting, crushing and grounding the fresh mulberry leaves, (b) extracting with 80% alcohol, at 35°C with rotation, thrice, each of 3 hours, (c) filtering the filtrate, mixing all the fractions and distilling-out the alcohol at 40°C, under vacuum, (d) extracting the aqueous phase with chloroform, (e) separating and concentrating the aqueous phase at 50°C to dryness, in rota vaporator, using vacuum (f) drying the dried mass further at 50°C, under vacuum oven for 12 hours to obtain yellow brown free flowing powder, highly hygroscopic in nature which is immediately packed in nitrogen atmosphere for further use in formulation.
6. The herbal skin care formulation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the active ingredient from apamarga comprising the steps of: (a) extracting mulberry leaf with 80%(v/v) of alcohol and apamarga with water at 35°C with rotation using Rami Stirrers for 3 hours, (b) filtering of the extract through filter cloths and concentrating the filtrate to dryness in rotary evaporator using vacuum and finally (c) grounding and sieving the dried mass through 60 mesh, obtaining a black brown free flowing powder which is stored at nitrogen atmosphere immediately for further use in formulation.
7. The herbal skin care formulation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the bioactive extract of mulberry comprises carbohydrate, glycosides and apamarga comprises monosaccharides and carbohydrates.
8. The herbal skin care formulation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the formulation is effective for acne/ pimples, black spots due to acne/ pimples and pigmentation.
9. The herbal skin care formulation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the
formulation is stable for minimum 2 years and maximum 3.5 years.
10. A herbal skin care formulation and method of preparation thereof substantially as herein described with reference to examples and figures.