Abstract:
A stable, low pH cosmetic skin care composition comprising cationic salt of amido amine, high molecular weight fatty acid and optionally involving non-ionic emulsifiers with improved sensory properties such as the sensory properties of vanishing creams and the like wherein the said higher molecular weight fatty acids and cationic salts of amido amine favours in attaining the desired sensory profile of the said skin care composition and also beneficially aid in incorporating higher levels of skin benefiting actives including acidic skin care actives in association with cosmetically acceptable vehicle in such skin care formulations and yet be stable.
Get Free WhatsApp Updates!
Notices, Deadlines & Correspondence
M/S. CAVINKARE RESEARCH CENTER,
12, POONAMALLE ROAD, EKKATTUTHANGAL,
CHENNAI-600 032.
2. PASUPATHI MURUGESAN
M/S. CAVINKARE RESEARCH CENTER,
12, POONAMALLE ROAD, EKKATTUTHANGAL,
CHENNAI-600 032.
3. GOMATHI RAJAGOPAL
M/S. CAVINKARE RESEARCH CENTER,
12, POONAMALLE ROAD, EKKATTUTHANGAL,
CHENNAI-600 032.
Specification
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a skin care composition, and more specifically, relates to a stable low pH cosmetic skin care composition comprising of cationic salt of amido amine, high molecular weight fatty acid and optionally involving non-ionic emulsifiers with improved sensory properties such as the sensory properties of vanishing creams and the like. most advantageously, the Incorporation of the higher molecular weight fatty acids and cationic salts of amido amine favours in attaining the desired sensory profile of the said skin care composition of the present invention and beneficially aid In incorporating higher levels of skin benefiting actives including acidic skin care actives in association with cosmetically acceptable vehicle in skin care formulations and yet be stable.
BACKGROUND ART
There is an increasing demand nowadays for skin compatible cosmetic preparations with lower irritancy and sensorial properties equivalent to vanishing cream. The traditionally used vanishing cream is dominated with high levels of fatty acid and alkali metal soap as an emulsifier which is important for physical stability of the product. However the presence of soap Increases the pH value of the product and the cosmetic composition becomes alkaline. Such a product is stable only under alkaline condition.
The surfaces of human skin are normally having pH of 4.0- 6.0, Upon contact with an alkaline substance, the skin secretes acidic substances to restore the normal pH lvalue. This process results in disturbance to the skin physiology and causes secretions such as sebum, sweat etc. resulting in skin irritation. Accordingly, it is desired that cosmetics such as creams, lotions etc. when applied to the skin are conditioned to be weakly acidic or to be of neutral pH while maintaining the characteristics of the traditional vanishing cream. On incorporation of acidic skin benefiting agent such as the alpha and beta hydroxy acids, the said anionic fatty soap emulsifier gets dissociated to its corresponding fatty acid and alkali metal salt of acidic skin benefiting agents. This in turn results in drop in pH and thereby causes physical instability. The lack of physical stability of the fatty acid soap emulsified vanishing creams at low pH is a disadvantage that restricts the use of valuable acidic beneficial actives, such as alpha-beta hydroxy carboxylic acids, because the said beneficial acidic actives dissociate tlie fatty acid soap emulsifier and adds to the Instability of the composition.
A wide variety of acidic skin benefiting compounds such as hydroxy acids are used In i the formulations of vanishing cream, stabilized with anionic and non Ionic emulsifier.
US Patent 6979452 B2 (Yan Zhou, et al) discloses low pH, high skin friction cosmetic cream containing solid asymmetric particles, an anionic emulsifier and a cosmetically
I acceptable vehicle. It describes the extensive use of ethoxyiated non-ionic surfactants such as ethoxyiated aikyi ether, ethoxyiated sorbitan esters, ethoxyiated
; fatty alcohols and ethoxyiated fatty acid esters. The anionic emuisifiers are selected from sulphates, sulphonates, succinates, isothionates, sarcosinates and taurates.
I Sodium cetostearyl sulphate has been used as an exemplary anionic emulsifier in the said prior art and the acidic skin benefit agents encompasses alpha & beta hydroxy acids namely glycollc, lactic and salicylic acid. Although these compositions are described to be stable at low pH giving desired sensory properties, the irritancy level of emuisifiers have not been realized.
It is known that sulphates and sulphonates based anionic emuisifiers exhibit a high irritancy potential as also mentioned in US patent 4,536,519 by Suzuki et al., wherein an emulsified system prepared with a higher levels of alcohol sulphate has a drawback of imparting excessively high Irritations to the skin along with the instability that is imparted to such systems due to gradual hydrolysis of the said alcohol sulphate with time. Uses of Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) derived nonionic emuisifiers also increase the risk of skin irritation. The cumulative irritancy of the
I said emuisifiers present along with other skin benefiting agents are thus often
discouraged from usage in such skin care compositions and particularly discouraged for those having sensitive skin. Therefore it is a long felt need to provide for a composition pertaining to skin care that is not only stable at low pH but has desired sensory characteristics along with a reduced risk of skin Irritations due to the presence of the emuisifiers in such skin care compositions.
US patent 6,153,177 (Bartolone et al.) discloses vanishing creams which are
formulated to Include alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of alpha-hydroxy carboxylic
acids In order to achieve skin lightening properties having pH of above 5. The salts of
alpha- hydroxy carboxylic acids and not the direct acids were incorporated In the said
I prior art to avoid instability in emulsions. The said salt of the acidic skin benefiting agents thus reduces the efficacy of the acidic sl(in benefiting agents.
U.S Patent 4, 536,519 (Suzuki et al.) uses a neutralized phosphoric ester as an emulsifler, a nonionic surfactant with HLB less than six and fatty components at neutral or weakly acidic pH. These compositions lack the sensory characteristics that are due to the lack of proper emulsifler systems.
WO 01/70188 (Dwiwahyu et al.) disclose a low pH (1-6.5) non-acid soap vanishing ' cream with enhanced stability and skin benefit properties. A C8-C22 fatty acid substituted saccharide is used to stabilize the low pH stearic acid based vanishing cream. These compositions again lack the sensory characteristics due to the lack of proper emulsifler systems.
As apparent, the above discussed prior art describes the extensive use of anionic and non-ionic emulsifler to maintain the stability of the skin care compositions containing high molecular weight fatty acid to give vanishing cream like feel . Anionic emulsifler carries a negative charge; tend to raise the skin pH above its normal value 4.0 to 6.0. Anionic emulsiflers have been demonstrated to cause damage to the stratum corneum barrier wherein SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate) in being an anionic surfactant is used as positive control In skin irritancy tests.
Skin care compositions containing cationic emulsiflers are well known due to the unique sensory profile that these emulsiflers provide at lower pH. They carry positive charge and are thus advantageous in light of the negatively charged characteristic of the skin. Cationic emulsiflers provide a smooth powdery feel and allow incorporating high level of active ingredients in the composition and increased active ingredient delivery to the skin because of its cationic nature (Klus Jenny & Anna Howe, Soaps Perfumery 8i Cosmetics April 2008).
Chang et al. in US patent application 2008/0020005A1 discloses a composition containing a nonionic, cationic emulsifler combination and polar emollient system to reduce the irritancy of Alpha Hydroxy acid ( AHA) and also to enable the sustained release of AHA. The disadvantage of the composition rests with the polar emollient system selected for this composition that does not impart vanishing cream iii