FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to skincare agents and cosmetic skin lightening compositions, and, in particular, selective aromatic compounds as skin care/ lightening agents and cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing the same. The invention is further directed to cosmetic compositions comprising the said aromatic compounds in effective amounts in the said composition along with cosmetically and / or dermopharmaceutically accepted vehicles with or without other skin benefit agents. More particularly, the invention is further directed in providing dendrite elongation inhibitory compositions involving the said compounds. Importantly, the invention further relates to a simple and cost effective cosmetic/ dermopharmaceutical compositions for external applications to facilitate lightening of skin colour comprising said skin care agents sourced from either synthetic or renewable plant sources such as Abies webbiana Lindl as extracts or concentrates used singly or in combination along with cosmetically/ dermopharmaceutically acceptable vehicle.

BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART
An increase in skin pigmentation over the basal constitutive level is referred to as facultative pigmentation. A major stimulus of facultative pigmentation in humans is UVR. UVR induced skin pigmentation or tanning as it is commonly known, involves several process like increased proliferation, enhanced tyrosinase expression, increased dendricity and increased transfer of melanin to ease the transfer the melanin keratinocytes.

Skin lightening is an important contributor to skin care attribute of cosmetic preparation/compositions, especially among darker skinned people including Asian population. Such a need includes a lightening of basal skin tone. Also it is desired by persons having spots, freckles or lesions which are hyperpigmented and thus need to be diminished. In other situations subjects may desire to reduce their natural skin colour or the skin darkening caused by exposure to intense sun rays. The degree of pigmentation of the skin is thus a principal cause of concern for many people.

The complexion of the skin is determined by the pigment melanin. Ielanocytes are the pigment producing cells that provide photo protection to the skin by synthesizing and distributing the pigment melanin to keratinocytes. These melanocytes are located in the basal layer of keratinocytes. Ielanocytes and keratinocytes are resident population of epidermis and the color of skin is only because of the melanin in keratinocytes which is transferred from melanocytes. Melanocytes are derived from neural crest cells, comprise of 1-2% of epidermal cell population and are solely responsible for the production and transfer of melanin to keratinocytes and pilosebaceous follicle. Melanin is synthesized and packed in cytoplasmic organelles of melanocytes, called melanosomes and are later transferred to keratinocytes through specialized structures in the melanocytes called dendrites. Since melanocytes are the minor population in the epidermis, the presence of the multiple dendrites facilitates transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes that surround melanocytes. Movement of the melanosomes along melanocyte dendrites is also necessary for the transfer of melanin pigment from melanolcytes to basal and suprabasal keratinocytes to maintain the normal skin color. Melanocyte dendrite formation is regulated by multiple signaling pathways stimulated by paracrine factors released by keratinocytes (Kara et. al., J. Invest. Dermatol., 2000, 114, 438-443).

The dendricity of melanocytes is regulated by various intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Addition of agents that increase the intracellular levels of cyclic adenosine monophosphate, dibutyryl cyclinc adenosine monophosphate or isobutylmethyl xanthine (IBMX), has strong effects on dendrite formation (Glynis et. al., J. Invest. Dermatol., 2007, 127, 668-675). Each melanocyte makes contact with around 30-40 keratinocytes and this constitutes the epidermal melanin unit. Mammalian melanocytes in the epidermal unit extend their dendrites towards keratinocytes in response to UV rays in addition to proliferation and melanin synthesis leading to tanned skin (Suzuki et al.. In Vitro Cell Dev. Biol. Anim., 1993, 29, 419-426). Increased number of dendrites and increase in the length of the dendrites, higher levels of transfer of melanin to keratinocytes have been established. Thus skin colour can be determined/regulated by modulating the elongation of dendrites or dendrite numbers (Akihiro, Fragr J, 2005, 33, 30 and Tada et. al., Bio.

Ind., 2005, 22, 12-17). Under normal conditions it is not the number of melanocytes in the skin that determines the degree of pigmentation but their levels of activity and the transfer of melanin in to the neighboring keratinocytes.

Phospholipase A2 secreted by kertinocytes is also known to mediate melanocyte dendricity. The effective transfer of tiie synthesized melanin by the melanocytes to the keratinocytes plays a very critical role in the skin colour than the extent of synthesis of melanin by the melanocytes. The most effective mode of transfer of the melanin to the keratinocytes is governed by the dendritic phenomena of the melanocytes. Abrogating the dendriticity of melanocytes is of great importance for controlling skin colour (Yuko et. al., Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, 2006, 1769, 487).
There are several dendrite inhibitors already reported in the literature. Benzoquinone group of chemicals that includes methyl ophlopogonanone B and centaureidin, benzopyranone, xanthanone derivatives were reported to inhibit dendrite formation in melanocytes and effectively affect the skin colour (Yuko et. al., Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, 2006, 1769, 487). Inhibiting the dendrite formation in melanocytes assures to be more effective than tyrosinase inhibition for the purpose of skin lightening/whitening cosmetics (Tada et. al., USP: 7, 141, 610, 2006).
US patent 7,141,601 and Korean patent 20050084088 A by Tada et al. are directed to a method of inhibiting the elongation of melanocytic dendrites through a skin preparation comprising of methylophiopogonanone B (2, 3-dihydro-3[(4-methoxyphenyl) methyl]-5, 7-dihydroxy-6, 8-dimethyl-4H-l-benzopyran-4-one) extracted from the tubers of Ophiopogon japon/cus ker-Gawler.
JP 2004143073 A further illustrates a 1, 3-dioxolane derivative of methyl¬ophiopogonanone B to possess the same property of inhibiting the elongation of melanocytic dendrites.
]P 2001335420 A is related to a skin lotion comprising the essence of rhizomes of Acorus calamus; JP 2001335421 A is directed to the essence of Sophora subprostata; JP 2003081748 A teaches a fruit essence of Forsythia suspensa Thunb. Vahl of Oleaceae; JP 2003081747 A illustrates a skin care preparation comprising the essence of Lonicera japonica Thunb preferably the essence of bulbs, leaves and stems; JP 2002053421 A is directed to a cosmetic skin care preparation comprising Maackiain derived form the rhizomes of Sophora subprostrata; JP 2002154919 A
comprises of a skin care preparation comprising the essence of the fruit of Phaseolus radiatus L; JP 2003081807 A is related to a bleaching cosmetic comprising an essence of Calendula officinalis L. and preferably an essence of a flower bud, a leaf and a stem; JP 2003113027 (A) is directed to a bleaching cosmetics by incorporating the essence of preferably enlarged root of plant of genus Ophlopogon such as Ophiopogon Japonlcus ker-Gawler etc.; JP 2003252742 A discloses a skin preparation having high bleaching effect comprising yeast extract as the active ingredient; JP 2001335502 A is related to a skin care preparation comprising the essence of rhizomes of Nardostachys jatamansi) JP 2002020303 A illustrates a cosmetic skin care preparation comprising the essence of rhizome of Thalictrum minus var. hypoleucum; JP 2004250354 A is related to a cosmetic preparation comprising extract of a plant belonging to Achillea family; JP 2003081746 A is directed to a bleaching cosmetics comprising an essence of Uncaria gambhir ROXBURGH, preferably the essence of leaves and sprigs; JP 2002154920 A is directed to a cosmetic skin care preparation including the essence of a ripe dried seed, preferably a fruit of Prunus armeniaca L. var. ansu axim. of the family Rosaceae; JP 2001335485 A directed to a skin care preparation comprising of a berberine derivative; all of which have the dendrite inhibition property. However, some of these products are associated with simultaneous disadvantages associated with each of them. For example, Acorus calamus is considered to be cytotoxic as reported by Padmaja et al. in Fitoterapia. 2002, 73, 508-510.
EP 1570838 Al Is mainly directed to dendrite elongation inhibitor for melanocytes comprising of centaureidin that was used directly or in the form of a physiologically acceptable salt in cosmetic skin preparations intended for alleviating dyschromatosis to which the amount of melanin produced contributes less resulting from the accelerated migration of melanin granules from melanocytic dendrites.
While inhibiting the elongation of dendrites that occurs when melanocytes allow melanin granules to migrate is a well known skin lightening mechanism not so many lightening agents utilizing such a mechanism are known in the art and it can thus be said that there is a strong need in the art for the development of new skin lightening agents utilizing such a mechanism.

Therefore, the existing state of the art clearly reveals the need for newer, effective and safe dendrite elongation inhibitors and more importantly the need for possible isolation of the said dendrite elongation inhibitors from renewable resource materials such as plants apart from the synthetics.

OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION
It is thus the basic objective of the present invention to provide new skin care agent for an effective protection against pigmentation of the skin involving inhibiting the elongation of dendrites as Its mechanism of action that would be effective, safe and compatible to the skin.
Another object of the present invention is directed to skin care formulation including a dermopharmaceutical and/ or a cosmetic composition involving the said skin care agent in effective amount whose functional benefit includes the dendrite elongation inhibitory property that would cater to variety of skin conditions in association with an acceptable vehicle with or without other skin care benefiting agents.

Yet another objective of the present invention is to provide for a skin care agent for variety of skin care formulations and the like with anti-tanning property involving dendrite Inhibitory mechanism that can be sourced either synthetically or simply and cost effectively from natural renewable resources such as plants.

A further object of the present invention is to provide for a process of formulation of the selective extract and/ or active ingredient having dendrite elongation inhibitory property from the plant sources wherein such selective actives act as a skin benefiting agent/ active that would especially favour the lightening of the skin colour.
A still further object of the present invention is directed to the preparation/ formulation of the skin care composition comprising effective amounts of either said synthetically active compounds or the extracts and /or active part of plant concentrates isolated from the plant sources such that the product obtained by incorporating said active ingredients/ extracts have good skin compatibility.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Thus according to the basic aspect of the present invention there is provided a skin iightening agent comprising an effective dendrite elongation Inhibiting active selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1

In accordance with a preferred aspect of the invention there Is provided a skin lightening agent wherein the said aromatic compound preferably comprises an effective amount of the active betulegenol of Formula 2,

In accordance with another preferred aspect of the invention there is provided a skin lightening agent wherein the said aromatic compound of Formula 1 comprises an
effective amount of the actives such as 4-(p-Hydroxyphenyl)- 2- butanone, 2-

Phenylethanol, 2-(p-Hydroxyphenyl)-ethanol, 2-(o-Hydroxyphenyl)-ethanol, 3-Phenyl-1-propanol, 3-(p-Hydroxyphenyl)- propanol, 4-Hydroxybenzylalcohoi, 3,4-

Dihydroxybenzylalcohol, 3,5- Dihydroxybenzylalcohol, Betulegeno! acetate etc.
Importantly, in keeping with the requirement for a skin care agent involving mechanism for inhibiting the elongation of dendrites it has surprisingly been found that the above said compound meet the much desired criteria of a superior skin lightening agent by way of said inhibition of elongation of dendrites which is found to be simple in effecting the lightening of the skin under low effective concentrations, economical and safe in having less or no side effects in association to the skin and which is lightening effect.
Also, efforts were further directed to provide said selective compounds for Formula 1 and specifically Formula 2 revealing the characteristic property of inhibiting the elongation of dendrites thereby resulting in skin lightening sourced from plant species and according to yet another aspect of the invention there is provided a skin lightening agent wherein the said agent comprises said aromatic compounds of Formula 1 or preferably betulegenol of Formula 2 as extracts/ concentrates from appropriate plant sources such as Abies webbiana Lindl, or as extracts/ concentrate from any other plant containing betulegenol of Formula 2 as atleast one ingredient as the dendrite elongation inhibiting active.
Advantageously, the above extract /concentrate of the selective compound of Formula 1 and 2 sourced from A. webbiana surprisingly in substantial deviation from its known characteristics/ biological properties revealed the characteristics of inhibiting the elongation of dendrites in accordance with the present invention.
Importantly, this was in substantial deviation from the well known several biological properties of the extracts from leaves of the plant as on record such as; the dried leaves are astringent, stomachic, carmnative, expectorant and aphrodisiac. The powdered leaves are used along with juice of Adhatoda vasica and honey are used for diseases such as asthma, bronchitis, haemoprysls and in catarrh of bladder (The wealth of India, raw materials, CSIR, 1985, Vol.1). The methanolic extract of the leaves of A. webbiana had shown broad spectrum of antibacterial activity (Satya

Prakash et al., Fitoterapia, 2007, 78, 153-155) and good anti-inflammatory activity in rats (Siva Sankar et al., J. Etiinopliarmacol., 2004, 98, 397-402).
In the backdrop of the abovesaid, it is indeed apparent that the actives of Formula 1 and 2 sourced from the A. webbiana were thus surprisingly and selectively efficacious in terms of the desired mechanism for inhibiting the elongation of dendrites.
In yet another aspect of the invention there is thus provided a skin lightening agent wherein the said actives of Formula 1 and preferably betulegenol of Formula 2 in pure form are either obtained synthetically or from plant extracts.
According to yet further preferred aspect of the invention there is provided a skin lightening agent wherein the said agent is selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1 or preparably betulegenol of Formula 2 as extracts/concentrates from appropriate plant such as Abies webbiana or as extracts / concentrate from the said plant containing betulegenol of Formula 2 as atleast one ingredient as the dendrite elongation inhibiting active in methanol or more preferably in ethyl acetate..
According to yet another preferred aspect of the invention there is provided a dendrite elongation inhibiting active comprises extracts from an appropriate plant part selected from leaves of plants of A. webbiana Lindl, including its variants and containing betulegenol of Formula 2 as at least one of its secondary metabolites.
In accordance with a preferred aspect of the invention there is provided a cosmetic and /or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use comprising an effective amount of skin lightening agent comprising the dendrite elongation inhibiting active as at least one ingredient
and
a cosmetically/ dermopharmaceutically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin care benefiting agents

In accordance with yet another aspect of the invention a dernnopharmaceutical/ cosmetic composition for topical use is provided comprising an effective amount of dendrite eiongation inhibiting active from extracts / concentrates from the said appropriate piant and preferably from the said appropriate plant part such as leaves and preferably as a methanol extract/ concentrate.
and
a cosmetically/ dermopharmaceutically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin care benefiting agents
In a yet further aspect of the present invention there is provided a cosmetic / dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use comprising:
a. 0.0001 wt% to 20 wt. % of said dendrite inhibitory agent/ active, preferably
0.001 wt% to 10 wt% of said dendrite inhibitory agent and more preferably and 0.01
wt% to 5 wt% of said dendrite inhibitory agent as at least one ingredient.
and
b. a dermopharmaceutically/ cosmetically acceptable vehicle with or without other
skin benefiting agents.
According to yet further aspect of the invention, the said cosmetic/ dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use comprises a leave-on or a wash-off product adapted for topical delivery in the form of creams, ointments, emulsions, gels, lotions, oils, sticks, sprays, soaps, packs, wraps, woven or nonwoven wipes, films or patches as a vehicle for topical application of the said dendrite elongation inhibiting composition.
Iost advantageously, a cosmetic/ dermopharmaceutical composition is provided wherein the said skin lightening agent comprising of the said dendrite elongation inhibiting active comprises selectively any one or more of (a) pure compounds selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1 preferably selected from betulegenol of Formula 2; (b) an extract/ concentrate of an appropriate natural

source material comprising compounds selected from one or more compounds of Formula 1 and preferably betulegenol of Formula 2; and (c) any natural source material comprising anyone or more of tlie said active aromatic compounds of Formula 1 or preferably betulegenol of Formula 2.
DETIALED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTON
As discussed herein before, the present invention provides a selective pure compound or mixture of compounds as extracts of renewable natural source material or pure compounds obtained via synthesis acting as skin lightening agent and in particular favours in providing effective protection against darkening/ tanning of the skin in a cosmetic/ dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use. The invention is further related to a process for producing the said selective combination of skin lightening promoting actives or pure compounds/ agents with or without other carriers/ skin benefiting additives involving its selective isolation from plants {Abies webbiana Lindl.) and also to processes for producing the said compositions and achieving skin lightening effect.
According to one aspect of the invention there is provided a cosmetic and/ or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use comprising of the skin lightening agent wherein the said dendrite elongation inhibiting active comprises selectively of pure compound selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1 or preferably of Formula 2 as represented hereunder; as an extract/ concentrate of an appropriate natural isolate comprising preferably selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1 / or Formula 2; or even a natural source material itself comprising the said active compound betulegenol of Formula 1/ or Formula 2.


In accordance with an exemplary and non-limiting embodiment, the said active compounds selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1 of the present invention is selected from Betulegenol of Formula 2 as given below.

According to a further aspect of the invention, the said cosmetic and /or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use includes dendrite elongation inhibitory agent comprising extracts/ concentrate from leaves of Abies webbiana, preferably methanol concentrate comprising betulegenol of Formula 1 or preferably Formula 2 or at least one compound of Formula 1.
In accordance with yet another aspect of the invention there is provided a process for the extraction and isolation of dendrite elongation inhibitory agent from a source o Abies webbiana Lindl. comprising:

a) subjecting the air-dried leaves of Abies webbiana Lindl., in powder form, to extraction witli an organic soivent sucfi as metlianol to provide for an extract;
b) removing the solvent from the extract under vacuum to provide a concentrate;
c) subjecting the concentrate to solvent partition, evaluation of all fractions to identify the active concentrate;
d) subjecting the concentrate to vacuum liquid chromatography;
e) evaluating the fractions for dendrite elongation inhibition property to identify the active fraction;
f) subjecting the active fraction to further chromatography using eluent such as chloroform: ethyl acetate (8:2, 7:3), pooling the fractions and concentrating the resulting solution to dryness in vacuo to provide more enriched concentrate;
g) subjecting the enriched concentrate to a process of crystallization/ re-cyrstallisation and fractional crystallization if necessary, to provide for said compounds of the invention.
Specific examples of the aromatic compounds of Formula 1 for inclusion in the compositions of the invention are either isolated from the plant, Abies webbiana or manufactured synthetically.
The ingredients essentially employed in such a composition are surfactants, emulsifiers emollients, silicones, thickeners, antioxidants, sunscreen agents, chelating agents, perfumes, opacifiers, colors, antimicrobial agents, herbal extracts /compounds, pH adjusting agents and water to qs.
The composition may contain usually employed vehicle such as may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion. Preferably, the compositions are aqueous or an emulsion, especially water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, preferentially oil in water emulsion. Water when present will be in amounts which may range from 5 to 99%, preferably from 20 to 85%, optimally between 40 and 80% by weight.

According to a still further aspect of the invention the cosmetic/ dermopharmaceutical connposition may contain various other skin benefit agents such as plasticizers, elastomers, calamine, pigments, antioxidants, chelating agents, and perfumes, as well as organic/ inorganic sunscreens and including such sunscreens as UV diffusing/ protection agents, typical of which is finely divided Titanium oxide and Zinc oxide.
A still further aspect of the invention the cosmetic composition of the present invention may optionally contain other adjunct minor components /ingredients such as including coloring agents, opacifiers, antimicrobial agents, pH adjusting agents and perfumes. Amounts of these other adjunct minor components may range anywhere from 0.0001 % up to 20 % by weight of the composition.
The composition may further include suitable skin benefit agents comprising anti-aging, wrinkle-reducing, skin whitening, anti-acne, and sebum controlling/ reducing agents. Examples of these include alpha-hydroxy acids and esters, beta-hydroxy acids and esters, polyhydroxy acids and esters, kojic acid and esters, ferulic acid and ferulate derivatives, vanillic acid and esters, dioic acids (such as sebacic and azeleic acids) and esters, retinol, retinal, retinyl esters, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, mulberry extract, licorice extract, and glycosides of benzyl protocatechuate derivatives other than the derivatives discussed herein above.
Suitable cosmetic carriers are well known to one skilled in the art. The cosmetic bases may be any bases which are ordinarily used for skin benefit agents and are not thus critical. Specific preparations of the cosmetics to which the skin benefit agents of the invention is applicable include creams, ointments, emulsions, lotions, washes, masks, packs, oils, sprays / aerosols and wipes. Cream bases are, for example, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, glycerine, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether and the like. Lotion bases include, for example, oleyl alcohol, ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerine, lauryl ether, sorbitan monolaurate and the like.
The cosmetically acceptable vehicle may act as a diluant, dispersant or carrier for the skin beneficial ingredient of the composition of the invention, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.

Besides water, relatively volatile solvents may also serve as carriers within compositions of the present invention. Most preferred are monohydric C1-C3 alkanols. These include ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. The amount of monohydric alkanol may ranges from 1 to 70 %, preferably from 10 to 50 %, and optimally between 15 to 40 % by weight.
Emollient material also serves as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of silicone oils and synthetic esters. The amount of the emollient material ranges anywhere from 0.1 to 50 %, preferably between 0.5 and 30 % by weight.
Surfactants are also included In the cosmetic compositions of the present invention. For leave-on products, total concentration of the surfactant range from 0.1 to 40 %, preferably from 1 to 20 %, optimally from 1 to 15 % by weight of the composition. For wash-off products, such as cleansers and soap, total concentration of surfactant will range at about 1 to about 90 %. The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives. The inventive cosmetic composition of the invention optionally contains a lathering surfactant. By a "lathering surfactant" it is meant a surfactant which, when combined with water and mechanically agitated, generates a foam or lather. Preferably, the lathering surfactant should be mild, meaning that it must provide sufficient cleansing or detergent benefits but not overly dry the skin, and yet meet the lathering criteria described above. The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain a lathering surfactant in a concentration of about 0.01 % to about 50 %.
Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material include polyalkyi siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyi siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 1 to about 25 million centistokes at 25°C. Among the preferred non-volatile emollients useful in the

present compositions are tine polydimetiiyl siioxanes having viscosities from about 10 to about 2,00,000 centistokes at ISC.
Among tlie ester emollients are: (1) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms (2) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols (3) Polyhydric alcohol esters (4) Wax esters (5) Sterol esters (6) Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be included as cosmetically acceptable carriers for compositions of this invention.
Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type may also be employed as cosmetically acceptable carriers in the compositions of the present invention. The amount of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 30%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition.
Thickeners/ rheology modifiers may also be utilized as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention. Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 10 %, usually from 0.001 to 5 %, by weight.
Collectively the water, solvents, silicones, esters, fatty acids, humectants and/ or thickeners constitute the cosmetically acceptable carrier in amounts from 1 to 99.9 %, preferably from 80 to 99 % by weight.
An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier employed.
In the cosmetic compositions of the invention, there may be added various other plasticizers, elastomers, calamine, pigments, antioxidants, chelating agents, and perfumes, as well as organic sunscreens and sunscreens such UV diffusing agents, typical of which is finely divided titanium oxide and zinc oxide.
The details of the invention, its objects and advantages are explained hereunder in greater detail in relation to non-limiting exemplary illustrations as per the following examples:

General Extraction Procedure:
The extraction procedure of the invention involves extracting the active from the selective natural renewable source such as plants, preferably Abies webbiana Lindl belonging to the Abietaceae family.
The extracts to be used according to the invention are obtained from the leaf of the plant belonging to the above said family, specifically from Abies webbiana Lindl.
Extract/concentrates
The leaf extract/ concentrates of the leaves of the plant Abies webbiana Lindl., according to the present invention generally comprise, as active ingredient, classes of chemicals like biflavonoids and other aromatic compounds. The final product involves a composition that varies depending on the staring material and on the selective method of extraction.
The Solvent Extraction process:
The extract/ concentrates used according to the present invention as described above for the purpose of producing desired multifunctional skin care formulation are prepared by conventional methods of extraction of the leaf of the plant. Such suitable conventional extraction methods, may include maceration, remaceration, agitation maceration, digestion, fluidized-bed extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, cryogenic extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation, diacolation and solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux which is carried out in a Soxhiet extractor, each of which is known to the person skilled in the art and any of which can be used in principle, reference may be made by way of example to Hagers Handbuch der Pharmazeutischen Praxis (5".Sup. edition. Vol. 2, pp, 1026 1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin-Heidelberg-New York 1991).
Solvents:
Solvents used for carrying out the extractions are preferably organic solvents, water or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low molecular weight

alcohols, esters, ethers, ketones or halogen-containing hydrocarbons with greater or lesser water contents (distilled or un-distilled), preferably aqueous, alcoholic solutions with greater or lesser water contents. However, preference is particularly given to extraction with water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol and isomers thereof, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate, chloroform, dichloromethane, trichloromethane, and mixtures thereof.
The extraction usually takes place at 20°C to 140''C, preferably at SCC to IZCC, in particular at the boiling temperature of the solvents or solvent mixtures. In one embodiment, the extraction is carried out under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the ingredients of the extract. The extraction times are adjusted by any person skilled in the art depending on the variable parameters for the extraction process such as starting material, the extraction method, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc. After the extraction, the resulting crude extracts can optionally be subjected to further customary steps, such as, for example, concentration, fractionation by partitioning between solvents, purification, including different types of chromatography, concentration and/ or decoloration. If desired, the extracts prepared in this way can, for example, be subjected to selective removal of individual undesired ingredients. The extraction can be carried out to any desired degree of extraction, but is usually carried out exhaustively.
Air-dried leaves of Abies webblana Lindl., were grounded preferably, grounded coarsely and are subjected to extraction with one or more organic solvents like lower alcohols, preferably methanol, or esters, preferably, ethyl acetate or halogenated hydrocarbons, preferably chloroform, to provide an extract.
The present invention encompasses the finding that the extraction conditions and also the yields of the end extracts can be chosen depending on the desired field of use, through deployment of appropriate precise screening techniques, Including dendrite elongation inhibitory activity and other related screens.
The invention, its objects and advantages are explained hereunder in greater detail in relation to non-limiting exemplary illustrations as per the following examples:

Example 1 - Extraction of the active from the leaves of Abies webbiana Mnttl.
The air-dried leaves of Abies webbiana Lindl., (220g) were powdered, extracted witli methanol through soxhiet apparatus for 8 hrs. The dilute extract was concentrated under reduced pressure to get 57.83g of crude methanol concentrate. The crude methanol concentrate showed dendrite inhibition property. The crude methanol concentrate (57g) was suspended in methanol: water (8:2), fractionated with hexane, chloroform, ethyl acetate and methanol to get corresponding fractions 7.0g, 13.Og, 19.Og and 15.Og respectively. All four fractions were submitted for biological property elucidation and it was found that all fractions showed dendrite inhibition property.
Example 2 - Isolation of active compound from the active fraction of Abies webbiana Lindl.
The chloroform fraction of A. webbiana Lindl., (13 g) was dissolved in chloroform and adsorbed on silica gel (100-200 mesh, 20 g). 400 g of silica gel (100-200 mesh) was packed in sintered glass funnel by using chloroform as solvent, followed by loading the adsorbed silica gel. The funnel was eluted with chloroform (350ml XIO), ethyl acetate (350ml X 10) and methanol (500ml). The fractions were analyzed by thin layer chromatography and fractions showing similar TLC behaviour were combined to obtain three major fractions. Fraction 1 from chloroform was concentrated to yield another residue (7.32 g) which was further purified through another small column of silica gel with chloroform as an eluent followed by re-crystallization with chloroform to result in a colorless solid which is the preferred compound betulegenol of Formula 2 of the invention. The compound of said Formula 2 displays the following characteristics:
On thin layer chromatography using a pre-coated silica gel plate, the isolated compound of Formula 2 provides a spot with an Rf value of 0.42 in EtOAc: CHCI3 3:7;

The UV (MeOH) spectrum shows a Xax absorbance value at 270 nm;
The IR spectrum values are at 3450 (br), 1630 cm" and other characteristic signals; Proton (H) NMR values in CDCig are at: 5 1.16 (3H, d, J=6.2Hz), 1.66 (2H, m), 2.59 (2H, m) 3.69 (IH, sextet), 6.67 (IH, d, J=8.4 Hz), 6.99 (IH, d, J=8.4 Hz); Carbon (C) NMR values in CDCI3 are at: 6 22.1, 30.8, 41.0. 66.5, 114.7, 114.7, 128.9, 128.9, 133.0, 154.9; M+=166.
Example 3 - Biological Evaluation
This example demonstrates the method of determining the dendrite elongation inhibition activity of the specially preferred extract/ compound/ formulations of the Invention through cell culture method by estimating the length of dendrites.
The melanocyte cells, B16F10 were used for the present study. The cells were cultured in DIEM in the presence of 5% carbon dioxide, 10% serum, Pencillin (lOOng/ml), streptomycin (SOg/ml), Amphotericin B. (2.5ig/ml). 1 X 10 cells were seeded in 60 mm cell culture dish and were incubated with and without the test material for 24 hrs. After 24 hr incubation, the cells were examined under an inverted microscope and the dendrite length was measured (USP 7141601B, 2006)
Table 1


It is thus concluded from the results under Table 1 that the crude methanollc extract inhibits the elongation of the length of the dendrites by 33%. It is also noteworthy that the specific aromatic compound betulegenol of Formula 2 inhibits the elongation of dendrites by 54% and most significantly the skincare cream formulated by the alcoholic crude concentrate inhibits the elongation of the dendrites by 21%.
The active Betulegenol and its derivative alongwith compounds of Formula 1 were further tested to Identify the respective dendrite elongation activities and the results noted are provided hereunder in Table lA:

The illustrations set forth under the above table clearly justifies the active compounds covered by the definition of Formula 1 of principal claim 1 being active towards inhibiting dendrite elongation. Interestingly, a comparative trial conducted with aromatic compound 3, 4, 5-Trihydoxybenzylalchol the results of which Is also provided in Table lA above revealed the inactivity of the aromatic compound 3, 4, 5-Trihydoxybenzylalchol with three hydroxyl group substituted in the benzene ring towards inhibiting the elongation of dendrites. It can be thus concluded from the above that while the respective positions of the hydroxy groups in the aromatic ring is immaterial but the number of substituted hydroxy groups in the aromatic ring matter the most towards determining the activity of inhibiting the length of the dendrites. This clearly confirms the superior dendrite inhibition activity found and revealed by the compounds of Formula 1 according to the present invention.

Example 4; Formulation of skin cream

1. Phase A ingredients were lieated to 70-75OC on water bath wherein the mixture
was melted.
2. Phase B ingredients were also heated to 75-80OC in a separate container.
3. Phase A was mixed with Phase B at high speed and the mixture was emulsified for 5 minutes.
4. The extract/ crude concentrate were dissolved or suspended in water and alcohol mixture.
5. Phase C was added to Phase AB at 45°C and thoroughly mixed to yield the
skincare cream.
Process for manufacturing the above said formulation in tlie form of lotion:
1. Deminerallzed/ DM water from Pliase A was taken and the carbomer was
dispersed carefully without forming lumps and stirred for 30 minutes, finally
the pH was adjusted to 4.5 by using TEA.
2. After mixing Phase A ingredients, Phase B was added to phase A and stirred
well for five minutes.

3. Phase C ingredients were heated at 70-75C and added to Phase AB and stirred well for 5 minutes.
4. Phase ABC was cooled to SCC and this mixture was neutralized by using Phase D and the pH adjusted between 6.5-7.00 and stirred well.
5. Phase ABCD was cooled to 45°C, colors and perfume were added and stirred well for another 5 minutes to yield the lotion.
Thus the present invention provides for a desired skin care agent and cosmetic skin lightening compositions and, in particular, selective aromatic compounds as skin care/ lightening agents and cosmetic and/ or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing the same. Importantly, the present invention thus favours in obtaining a skin care agent where the actives of the above said Formula 1 and betulegenol of Formula 2 are either preferably obtained from safe and renewable sources, such as Abies webbiana Lindl., or obtained as pure compound (via., Synthesis or isolation from appropriate extract) that can be used either singly or in combination with a cosmetically/ dermopharmaceutically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin care benefiting agents.

WE CLAIM:

1. A skin lightening agent comprising an effective dendrite elongation inhibiting
active selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1
wherein
n = 0-2
R1 = H, OH
R2 = H,OH
R3 = OH, carbonyl or O Ac
R4 = H or alkyl or substituted phenyl

2. A skin lightening agent as claimed in Claim 1 wherein the said aromatic compound
comprises an effective amount of the active betulegenol of Formula 2

3. A skin lightening agent as claimed in Claim 1 wherein the said aromatic compound
of Formula 1 comprises an effective amount of the actives such as 4-(p-Hydroxyphenyl)- 2- butanone, 2-Phenylethanol, 2-(p-Hydroxyphenyl)-ethanol, 2-(o-Hydroxyphenyl)-ethanol, 3-Phenyl-l-propanol, 3-(p-Hydroxyphenyl)-propanol, 4-Hydroxybenzylalcohol, 3,4-Dihydroxybenzylalcohol, 3,5- Dihydroxybenzylalcohol,
Betulegenol acetate etc.

4. A skin lightening agent as claimed in Claims 1, 2 and 3, wherein the said actives selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1 and preferably betulegenol of Formula 2 in pure form are either obtained synthetically or from plant extracts.

5. A skin lightening agent as claimed in any one of the preceding claims wherein the said agent is selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1 or preferably betulegenol of Formula 2 as extracts/ concentrates from appropriate plant A. webbiana Lindl, or as extracts/ concentrate from the said plant containing betulegenol of Formula 2 as atleast one ingredient as the dendrite elongation inhibiting active in methanol or more preferably in ethyl acetate.

6. A skin lightening agent as claimed in anyone of Claims 1 to 5 wherein the said dendrite elongation inhibiting active comprises extracts from an appropriate plant part selected from leaves of plants of A. webbiana Lindl, including its variants and containing betulegenol of Formula 2 as at least one of its secondary metabolites.

7. A cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use comprising an effective amount of skin lightening agent comprising the dendrite elongation inhibiting active as claimed in Claims 1 to 6 as atleast one ingredient
and

a cosmetically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin benefiting agents.

8. A cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use as claimed in
claim 7 comprising an effective amount of dendrite elongation inhibiting active from
extracts/ concentrates from the said appropriate plant and preferably from the said
appropriate plant part such as leaves and preferably as a methanol extract /
concentrate

and

a cosmetically/ dermopharmaceutically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin care benefiting agents.

9. A cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use as claimed in
Claim 7 and 8 comprising

a) 0.0001 wt % to 20 wt. % of said dendrite elongation inhibiting active, preferably
0.001 wt % to 10 wt % of the said dendrite elongation inhibiting active and more
preferably 0.01 wt % to 5 wt % of said dendrite elongation inhibiting active

and

b) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin benefiting agents,

10. A cosmetic and/or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use as claimed
in anyone of claims 7 to 9 comprising a leave-on or a wash-off product adapted for
topical delivery in the form of creams, ointments, emulsions, gels, lotions, oils,
sticks, sprays, soaps, packs, wraps, woven or nonwoven wipes, films or patches as a
vehicle for topical application of the said dendrite elongation inhibiting composition.

11. A cosmetic and/ or dermopharmaceutical composition for topical use as claimed
in anyone of Claims 7 to 10 wherein the said skin lightening agent comprising of the
said dendrite elongation inhibiting active comprises selectively any one or more of
(a) pure aromatic compounds selected from one or more of aromatic compounds of
Formula 1 preferably selected from betulegenol of Formula 2; (b) an extract/
concentrate of an appropriate natural source material comprising the said selected
one or more of aromatic compounds of Formula 1 preferably betulegenol of Formula
2; and (c) any natural source material comprising anyone or more of the said active
aromatic compounds of Formula 1 or preferably betulegenol of Formula 2.

12. A skin lightening agent comprising one or more of aromatic compounds of
Formula 1 as dendrite elongation inhibiting active in effective amounts and a
cosmetic and/ or dermopharmaceutical composition obtained thereof substantially as
herein described and illustrated with reference to the accompanying examples.