TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention describes Air Rich Green fabric and Air Rich Green yarns
comprising air voids and the method of manufacturing such fabric and yarns. In
particular, the invention is directed to a method of producing fabrics and yarns with
structure having air voids as hollow yarn , or pores randomly distributed in the yarn, or
pores homogeneously distributed throughout the cross-section of the yarn and which
have high wettablity, easy dryablity, quick absorbency, high softness, and increased
thickness or bulk advantages and is manufactured without using water soluble
synthetic fibers like PVA.
BACKGROUND
Fabric is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or manmade fibers often
referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibers such as wool,
linen, cotton, or other natural or manmade material on a spinning wheel to produce long
strands. Fabrics are formed by weaving, knitting, or non-woven technique.
The fabrics woven and terry woven are made from, for example, 100% cotton fiber
yarns, fiber blends in yarns like: cotton and viscose; blends of cotton and modal ,
blends of silk and modal; bamboo fiber yarns; and blends of cotton and bamboo yarns.
Flat fabrics, such as sheeting or apparel, may be made from 10O0/o cotton; blends of
polyester and cotton; blends of polyester and viscose; blends of cotton and modal;
blends of cotton, silk and modal; and any combinations thereof.
Further, most fibers have absorbent properties but the extent of absorption depends on
the type of fiber, nature of yarn used for making the fabric, the design of the fabric etc.
However, by suitable modifications in the yarn structure, it is possible to increase the
wicking property of the yarn, in effect increasing the hydrophilic nature, thereby making
the yarns quick absorbing and bulky.
Terry Towels are generally thick materials. The thicker the towel, the greater the surface
area, and thus a greater amount of water can be absorbed. When a towel fabric
encounters a water droplet, the pile loops first remove the droplet by sucking the
vdroplet
between the space available among the pile loops and then absorbing the water
inside the yarn in the space between the fibers in the yarn. The latter part applies to flat
fabrics as well. The absorbed water then enters the secondary wall and in lumen of the
cotton fiber.
The amount of twist in the yarn affects the properties of the towel products. The pile
yarn is generally a low-twist yarn. Pile loops provide maximum surface area for the
absorption of water, and the low twist aids in the absorption by imparting wicking
properties to the yarn. Ground warp and weft are generally hard-twisted compared to
the pile yarn. The ground and weft yarn twist factors generally range from about 3.8 to
about 4.2, depending upon the towel construction. In contrast, the twist factor in the
pile yarn generally ranges from about 3.2 to about 3.9. Similarly in the case of flat
fabrics the twist factor for warp and weft range from about 3.8 to about 4.5.
The yarns normally used in terry fabrics are coarse and range from Ne (Number English)
8s to 30s in single as well as doubled configuration for pile, weft and ground yarns.
Similarly the warp and weft yarn count, in the case of flat fabrics range from Ne. 12s to
Ne. 100s in single as well as doubled configuration depending on the construction of
fiber, their blends and the structure of the yarn made thereof.
Decorative designs and embellishments are formed using polyester filament, polyester
spun yarn, viscose filament yarn, viscose spun yarn, mercerized cotton yarn, cotton
linen fiber blended yarns, Ramie cotton fiber blended yarn, modal fiber yarns, chenille
yarn, modified viscose fiber yarn, and combinations thereof. Other flat fabrics such as
sheeting or apparel are made from 100°/o cotton fiber yarn; fiber blends of polyester and
cotton; blends of polyester and viscose; blends of cotton and modal, blends of cotton
and silk and modal; blends of cotton and bamboo; blends of cotton and sea weed fibers;
blends of cotton and sliver fibers; blends of cotton and charcoal fibers; and any
combinations thereof.
The greater the amount of free air space available within the yarn, the quicker and
higher is the absorption of the water and softness and bulkiness is superior. Hence, to
increase the amount of free spaces (as the air space increases, the drying of the towel
after absorption also increases) structural changes in the yarn have to be made.
Wool is a natural animal fiber; it dissolves completely in specific concentrations of
caustic soda which is already used in basic pretreatment chemicals of some of the
natural fiber or any separate process also involving caustic. Wool fibre is usually spun to
make warmihigh end fabrics/ garments.
Till now such properties are achieved by making yarn by blending PVA fiber with other
textile fibers and PVA . Dissolving property of PVA/any other synthetic water soluble
fiber made from other resin or chemicals to create air spaces or voids in the yarn
structure. The processing of PVA and other such synthetic fibers leads to very high
pollution load which is a big challenge for textile industry. Increased use of PVA fiber
reduces the capability of ITP (effluent treatment plants). It therefore becomes very
challenging to maintain the quality of water after treatment.
The present invention tries to overcome the disadvantages associated with the use of
synthetic fibers like PVA in forming porous /hollow structures in yarns and fabrics by
eliminating the use of PVA to save both environment and cost associated with making
porous or hollow yarn. The present invention overcomes the drawback of using PVA and
provides a process for which uses wool fibers to create air voids in the fabriclyarn.
Therefore it called Air Rich Green as it is environment friendly.
SUMMARY
An object of the present subject matter is to provide a new method for manufacturing
fabrics and yarns with air space or voids which are highly wettable, soft , easily dryable,
quick absorbing, thicker (voluminous) without harming the environment.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing yarn
and fabric comprising air spaces or voids without using synthetic fibers like PVA which
cause harm to the environment.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing
yarn or fabric which is an economical yet eco-friendly method.
Another object of the present subject matter is to provide a method for manufacturing
terry fabrics that can absorb about 75% to 100% of the water contacting them and dry
with a drying rate 10 to 30 O/O faster than normal fabric.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing
yarnlfabric which eliminates the use of PVA in manufacturing yarn and fabrics to save
environment and reduces cost of making porous yarn or hollow through various other
alternates. .
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide fabrics and yarns which are
highly wettable, soft , easily dryable, quick absorbing, thicker (voluminous) without
harming environment.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide yarn and fabric comprising air
spaces or voids.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide yarns or fabrics comprising air
spaces or voids in the form of pores homogeneously or randomly distributed throughout
the cross-section of the yarn or in the form of a hollow space in the core of the yarn.
To achieve the said objectives, the present invention provides a process for making a
fabric comprising; blending or mixing wool with one or more other textile fibers to form
yarn; weaving or knitting using the yarn obtained in step a) as at least one of the
components; and removing wool to form air voids.
The present invention also provides a process for making a yarn comprising: blending or
mixing wool with one or more other textile fibers; spinning or doubling; and removing
wool by dissolving to form air voids.
The present invention also provides a yarn comprising air voids produced by blending or
mixing wool with one or more other fibers; spinning or doubling and removing wool by
dissolving to form air spaces.
The present invention also provides a fabric comprising yarns with air voids produced by
blending or mixing wool with one or more other fibers to form yarn; weaving or knitting
using the yarn as at least one of the components; and removing wool to form air
spaces.
Brief description of drawings
Fig 1: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the sliver of other material (e.g. cotton) fibers
in a draw frame with sliver of wool fibers.
Fig 2: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the other material (e.g.cotton) fibers sliver in
a draw frame with sliver of wool fibers carded and blended with cotton.
Fig 3: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the other material (e.g.cotton) fibers sliver in
a draw frame with sliver of wool fibers carded, combed and blended with cotton.
Fig 4: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the other material (e.g.cotton) fibers sliver in
a speed frame with wool fibers sliver.
Fig 5: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the sliver of other material (e.g.cotton) fibers
in a speed frame with sliver of wool fibers carded and blended with cotton.
Fig 6: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the sliver of other material (e.g.cotton) fibers
in a speed frame with sliver of wool fibers carded, combed and blended with cotton.
Fig 7: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the other material (e.gcotton) fibers roving in
a ring frame with wool fibers roving.
Fig 8: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the other material (e.g.cotton) fibers roving in
a ring frame with roving of wool fibers carded and blended with cotton.
Fig 9: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the other material (e.g. cotton) fibers roving in
a ring frame with roving of wool fibers carded, combed and blended with cotton.
Fig 10: illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the fabric of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the other material (e.g.cotton) fibers sliver in
a draw frame with sliver of wool fibers carded and blended with cotton. The yarn
obtained is weaved, pretreated with caustic to dissolve wool, and further processed
before finally packaging the final fabric.
DEFINITIONS:
English count (Ne) - Number of hanks of 840 yards per pound.
Absorbency - The propensity of a material to take in and retain liquid, usually water.
Blend - A textile containing two or more different fibers, variants of the same fiber or
different colors and grades of the same fiber.
*
Blending - The mixing of quantities of the same fiber taken from many lots or of
different types of fiber to produce a uniform result.
Carding - A process in manufacturing spun yarn in which the fibers are separated,
distributed, equalized and formed into a web. The web can be very thin or thick. The
process of carding removes some impurities, and a certain amount of short or broken
fibers.
Core Spinning - A yarn spinning process by which a filament (usually elastic under
tension) is covered with a sheath of staple fiber. The resultant yarn and fabric have the
characteristics of the sheath fiber along with the advantage of stretch and recovery.
Denier: Refers to the thickness of a fiber. It is the measurement of the diameter of the
fiber and refers to weight in grams for 9000 meters.
Hank: A definite length of textile material that varies according to the material. A hank
of wool is 560 yards, cotton and silk is 840 yards, and linen is 300 yards.
Spinning: The final step in the production of yarn. The twisting of fibers in the form of
the sliver or roving.
Yarn: A continuous strand of textile fibers created when a cluster of individual fibers are
twisted around one another.
Core Yarn: A yarn made by winding one yarnlfiber around another to give the
appearance of a yarn made solely of the outer yarn.
Pile: A surface effect on a fabric formed by tufts or loops of yarn that stand up from the
body of the fabric such as terry towel fabric
Warp: In woven fabric, the yarns that run lengthwise and are interwoven with the fill
(weft) yarns.
Weft: In woven fabric, the filling yarns that runs perpendicular to the warp yarns.
Yarn processing: After treating yarn to dissolve wool by usage of caustic, this yarn may
or may not be further dyed, bleached as per requirement.
Textile fiber used in the invention: - it can be any natural, man-made,, synthetic,
recycles or regenerated fiber or their blends like cotton, cotton blends, silk, modal fibers,
acrylic, blends of cotton and bamboo, blends of cotton and sea weeds, blends of cotton
and silver, blends of cotton and charcoal, blends of polyester and cotton, blends of
polyester and viscose, blends of cotton and modal and combinations thereof.
PVA - A synthetic polymer available in the form of filaments and cut fibers. PVA fibers
are easily dissolved in warm or hot water at about 40 degree Celsius to 110 degree
Celsius without the aid of any chemical agents.
Wool fibre - A naturally occurring animal fibre, with major classification done on fibre
diameter & length (range from el5 microns to 60 microns in diameter & length varies
from 18 mm to 200 mm).it includes wool Noil.
Wool Noil - Properties all similar to wool, but basic difference is it's a name given to
fibres recovered from Combing procedure as short fibre separated (in relation to
minimum fibre length required for combed yarn manufacturing)
Caustic Soda - It's a chemical (alkali) used in scouring of cellulosic fibers or a chemical
alternately used to dissolve wool.
Sliver - A strand, or slender roll, of cotton or other fibre in a loose, untwisted state,
produced by a carding machine, or drawframe machine and is ready for further
processes of parallelization or roving formation which precedes spinning process.
.
Porosity: Porosity is the ratio of the volume of openings (voids) to the total volume of
material. Porous surface of the yarn having more big size air gaps in the yarn structure
for quick absorbing and early shedding of water that is being absorbed.
Through Pores: Open to outside and permit fluid flows
Thermal Insulation: It is a measure of amount of heat a fabric can resist from its surface
to dissipate in to the atmosphere
Wettability: Wettability or wetting is the actual process when a liquid spreads on a solid
substrate or material. It can be estimated by determining the contact angle or
calculating area of spreading or time taken to spread.
Fabric processing: After treating fabric to dissolve wool by usage of caustic, this fabric
may or may not be further dyed, bleached as per requirement.
Air space or air voids: In context to the present invention it refers to free air spaces that
would be formed after wool is dissolved .from the yarnlfabric by treatment with caustic
soda. The wool fibers if present in the core of the yarn, dissolution of the wool would
lead to formation f hollow yarn. I f wool fibers are randomly or homogenously blended
with one or more other textile fibers then the voids/ air spaces are formed as pores
randomly or homogeneously distributed respectively.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
In one aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a process for
making a fabric comprising;
a) blending or mixing wool with one or more other textile fibers
to form yarn;
b) weaving or knitting using the yarn obtained in step a) as at
least one of the components; and
c) removing wool by dissolving to form air voids.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a process for making a yarn
comprising: blending or mixing wool with one or more other textile fibers; spinning or
doubling; and removing wool by dissolving to form air voids.
The air voids are formed by dissolving wool by treating with caustic soda.
In specific embodiments of the invention the wool could be removed before weaving or
knitting of the yarn to form fabric.
In yet another specific embodiment step a) further comprises the step of spinning or
doubling blended fibers. The spinning can be by any of the spinning techniques like ring
spinning, Open-End Spinning, friction spinning to form yarn. The direction of spinning
can be S twist or Z Twist direction.
In specific embodiment of the invention one or more other textile fibers are selected
from the group consisting of natural, regenerated, recycled or synthetic textile fibers or
blends thereof.
In specific embodiment of the present invention the wool fibers are mixed or blended to
be incorporated in the core of the yarn, or to be randomly distributed in the yarn, or to
be homogeneously distributed throughout the cross-section of the yarn.
In specific embodiments the blending of the wool fibers with one or more other textile
fibers is by any blending process selected from the group consisting of; blending wool
fibers with one or more other fibers in blow room ; making sliver of wool and one or
more other textile fibers separately and blending in Draw Frame; making Sliver of wool
and one or more other textile fibers separately and blending it in speed Frame; or
making Sliver of wool and roving of one or more other textile fiber separately and
blending it in ring-frame as core spun to form fiber blends.
In specific embodiments the yarn is formed by
blending of the wool fibers with one or more other textile fibers by any blending
process selected from the group consisting of; wool fibers with one or more
other fibers in blow room ; making sliver of wool and one or more other textile
fibers separately and blending in Draw Frame; making Sliver of wool and one or
more other textile fibers separately and blending it in speed Frame; or making
Sliver of wool and roving of one or more other textile fiber separately and
blending it in ring-frame as core spun to form fiber blends;
spinning the blended fibers by any of the spinning techniques like ring spinning,
Open-End Spinning, friction spinning to form yarn.
The different embodiments of the invention by which the wool fibers can be blended
with one or more other fibers have been depicted in figure 1 to 9. Figure 1 illustrates
an embodiment of the process of making the yarn of the present invention comprising
the step of blending the sliver of cotton fibers in a draw frame with sliver of wool fibers.
Another embodiment of the present invention is depicted in Figure 2 comprising the
step of blending the cotton fibers sliver in a draw frame with sliver of wool fibers carded
and blended with cotton. Yet another embodiment of the present invention is illustrated
in Figure 3 which provides a process of making the yarn of the present invention
comprising the step of blending cotton fibers sliver in a draw frame with sliver of wool
fibers carded, combed and blended with cotton.
Figure 4, 5 and 6 illustrate an aspect.of the invention in which the step of blending the
other material (cotton) fibers sliver is in a speed frame with wool fibers sliver. Figure 5
illustrates a particular embodiment of the present aspect which provides a process of
making the yarn of the present invention comprising the step of blending the sliver of
cotton fibers in a speed frame with sliver of wool fibers carded and blended with cotton.
Figure 6 illustrates a further embodiment comprising the step of blending the sliver
cotton fibers in a speed frame with sliver of wool fibers carded, combed and blended
with cotton.
Figure 7, 8 and 9 illustrates an aspect of the present invention process of making the
yarn of the present invention comprising the step of blending the other material (cotton)
fibers roving in a ring frame with wool fibers roving. Figure 8 illustrates an embodiment
of the present aspect which describes a process of making the yarn of the present
invention comprising the step of blending cotton fibers roving in a ring frame with roving
of wool fibers carded and blended with cotton. Figure 9 depicts an embodiment of the
process of making the yarn of the present invention comprising the step of blending the
cotton fibers roving in a ring frame with roving of wool fibers carded, combed and
blended with cotton.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a process for making a yarn
comprising': blending or mixing wool with one or more other textile fibers; spinning or
doubling; and removing wool by dissolving to form air voids.
In specific embodiment the yarn can be woven or knitted to form a fabric. In preferred
embodiments of the present invention the yarn used in the fabric is a single or multipleply
yarn (made by doubling). In specific embodiments of the present invention the yarns
are warp yarns, weft yarns, course yarn, wales yarn, or pile yarn or a combination
thereof.
In yet another preferred embodiment the yarn can be processed before weaving or
knitting to make fabric. The yarn could be dyed, bleached etc.
In specific embodiments the fabric formed can further be processed after treatment with
caustic to dissolve wool and form voids. The fabric could be dyed, bleached et.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a yarn comprising air voids produced by
blending or mixing wool with one or more other fibers; spinning or doubling and
removing wool by dissolving to form air spaces.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a fabric comprising yarns with air voids
produced by blending or mixing wool with one or more other fibers to form yarn;
weaving or knitting using the yarn as at least one of the components; and removing wool
by dissolving to form air spaces/voids.
The wool is removed by dissolving to form air voids by treating with caustic.
In specific embodiments of the invention the fabric is a flat fabric or terry fabric or
toweling fabric.
In specific embodiments of the invention the one or more other textile fibers are selected
from the group consisting of natural, regenerated, recycled or synthetic textile fibers or
blends thereof.
In specific embodiments of the invention the fabric can have 1 or more ply yarn.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a process comprising the steps:
a) Blending wool with the one or more other fiber at blowroom;
b) Pre-Spinning the blended material obtained in step (a) to obtain
randomly or homogeneously blended slivers or rovings;
c) Spinning the well blended rovings obtained in step (b) to obtain yarns;
d) Weaving or knitting using yarns obtained in step (c) as at least one of the
component to obtain fabric;
e) Treating the fabric obtained in step (d) with caustic to dissolve wool
component to obtain fabric with air voids; and
f) Optionally post treating the fabric obtained in step (e)
In the present aspect the wool used for blending can also be separately blended, carded
& blended, or combed & blended with other fibers before blending it with other fibers
in a blowroom.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a process comprising the steps:
a) Blending wool with the one or more other fiber slivers in a drawframe;
b) Pre-Spinning the blended slivers obtained in step (a) to obtain randomly
or homogeneously blended rovings;
c) Spinning the well blended roving obtained in step (b) to obtain yarns;
d) Weaving or knitting using yarns obtained in step (c) as at least one of the
component to obtain fabric;
e) Treating the fabric obtained in step (d) with caustic to dissolve out wool
component to obtain fabric with air voids; and
f) Optionally Post treating fabric obtained in step (e).
In the present aspect the wool used for blending can also be separately blended, carded
& blended, or combed & blended with other fibers before blending it with other fibers
at drawframe.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a process comprising the steps:
a) Blending wool with the one or more other fiber slivers in a speedframe;
b) Pre-Spinning the blended slivers obtained in step (a) to obtain randomly
or homogeneously blended rovings;
c) Spinning the well blended roving obtained in step (b) to obtain yarns;
d) Weaving or knitting using yarns obtained in step (c) as at least one of the
component to obtain fabric;
e) Treating the fabric obtained in step (d) with caustic to dissolve out wool
component to obtain fabric with air voids;
f) Optionally Post treating fabric obtained in step (e).
In the present aspect the wool used for blending can also be separately blended, carded
& blended, or combed & blended with other fibers before blending it with other fibers
sliver at speedframe.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a process comprising the steps:
a) Blending wool with the one or more other fiber roving in a ring frame;
b) Spinning the blended roving obtained in step (a) to obtain core spun
yarns ;
c) Weaving or knitting using yarns obtained in step (b) as at least one of the
component to obtain fabric;
d) Treating the fabric obtained in step (d) with caustic to dissolve out wool
component to obtain hollow fabric with air voids; and
e) Optionally Post treating fabric obtained in step (e).
In the present aspect the wool used for blending can also be separately blended, carded
& blended, or combed & blended with other fibers before blending it with other fibers
roving at ringframe.
In preferred embodiments of the present aspect the yarns obtained are knitted or
weaved in multiply ply (made by doubling) to obtain fabric.
The fabriclyarn is washed in caustic solution to dissolve the wool fibers. In specific
embodiments of the invention the amount of wool fibers dissolved depends upon the
percentage usage in count of the yarn or yarns used. The amount of wool fibers present
can vary from about 5% to about 30% of the weight of the yarn. For example, wool
fiber may be present as 5%, 6%, 7% 8%, 10%, 12%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 18O/0, 20°/0,
22%, 24% or 25 % or 30% of the weight of the yarn. By dissolving the wool, additional
air spaces/ voids are produced in the yarn, leading to an increase in the airspace in the
yarn. By increasing air space in the yarn, the resulting fabric (e.g. towel) is softer and
bulkier than standard cotton fabric (e.g. cotton towel) and in addition having good water
permeability and drying properties.
In specific embodiments of the present invention the terry fabrics and yarns of the
present invention can absorb, for example, between about 75% and 10O0/0 of the water
contacting the yarn or fabric.
In a preferred embodiment, the yarns and towel fabrics of the present invention can
absorb between about 75% and 100% of the water contacting the yarn or towel fabric.
In another embodiment the fabrics can absorb more than 75% of the water contacting.
In another embodiment the yarn or fabric can be dried at a rate 10% to 30 O/O faster
than the normal yarn or fabric.
In yet another embodiment the yarns and fabrics of the invention are 30 to 40 O/O more
voluminous than the normal and have 20 to 30 O/O higher thermal insulation properties.
Figure 10 illustrates an embodiment of the process of making the fabric of the present
invention comprising the step of blending the cotton fibers sliver in a draw frame with
sliver of wool fibers carded and blended with cotton. The yarn obtained is weaved,
pretreated with caustic to dissolve wool, and further processed before finally packaging
the final fabric.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a process of making a terry fabric
comprising the steps:
a) Blending wool with one or more other fiber at blow room, or blending
slivers of wool and slivers of one or more other fibers at draw frame or
speedframe, or blending rovings of wool and rovings of one or more
other fibers at ring frame;
b) Drawing the blended slivers obtained in step (a) to obtain
homogeneously blended or randomly blended slivers ;
c) Pre spinning the homogeneously blended or randomly blended slivers
obtained in step (b) to obtain well blended roving;,
d) Spinning the well blended roving obtained in step (a) or (c) to obtain
yarns;
e) Weaving or knitting using yarns obtained in step (d) as pile of the fabric;
f) Treating the fabric obtained in step (e) with caustic to dissolve out wool
component to obtain fabric with air voids;
g) Optionally Dyeing the fabric obtained in step (f) to obtain dyed fabric;
and
h) Optionally Post treating dyed fabric obtained in step (g).
In preferred embodiment of the present aspect yarn obtained in step (d) pile yarn is
woven with weft and warp yarns of one or more other fibers to produce terry fabrics,
such as towels. The fabric is then washed in caustic to dissolve wool fiber.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a process of making flat fabric
comprising the steps:
a) Blending wool with the one or more other fiber at blowroom, or blending
slivers of wool and slivers of one or more other fibers at draw frame or
speedframe, or blending rovings of wool and rovings of one or more
other fibers at ring frame;
b) Drawing the blended slivers obtained in step (a) to obtain
homogeneously blended or randomly blended slivers;
c) Pre spinning the homogeneously blended or randomly blended slivers
obtained in step (b) to obtain well blended roving;,
d) Spinning the well blended roving obtained in step (a) or (c) to obtain
yarns;
e) Weaving or knitting using yarns obtained in step (d) as warp & weft of
the fabric;
f) Treating the fabric obtained in step (e) with caustic to dissolve out wool
component to obtain fabric with air voids;
g) Optionally Dyeing the fabric obtained in step (f) to obtain dyed fabric;
and
h) Optionally Post treating dyed fabric obtained in step (g).
In preferred embodiments of the present invention the other fiber is cotton. Cotton can
be of any origin; for example, Indian, Egyptian, Australian, United States of America
(USA), Syria, or Russia etc.
The wool fiber used can be wool/wool noil or any category of wool.
In specific embodiments:
The process of manufacturing fabric/yarn of the present invention comprises the following
steps:
Blendins wool with one or more other fibers in the varn: -
Processing wool fibers and producing slivers of wool
Wool fibers can be mixed processed with or without blending with one or more other
fiber in blow room stage. Blend of wool with other fiber or only wool fiber are passed to
next process in line i.e. carding and then to drawframe (one or two passages as
required in order to ensure uniformity of fibers in the stream) to form a uniform blended
Wool and other fiber, or only wool fiber sliver from Drawframe as output. Further
Combing operation may be done optionally as per quality requirement of the end
product.
This blended output can further be blended with one or more other fiber or processed
as it at following stages :
A) Drawframe finisher
B) Speedframe
C) Ring frame
Else, Already blended material will be processed from drawframe to speedframe with
out further blending.
The range of wool material sliver hank is from 0.05 to 0.40s Ne. Wool sliver is made on
the draw frame with a finer hank greater than or equal to 0.05 hank. The diameter of
wool material fibers is from 15 -50 microns & length of fiber may vary from 30 mm to
100 mm.
Processing other material fibers and producing slivers from other material
fibers
The other material sliver may be made from, for example, different cotton blends, silk
fibers, modal fibers, acrylic fibers; blends of cotton and bamboo; blends of cotton and
sea weed fibers; blends of cotton and sliver fibers; and blends of cotton & charcoal
fibers or multiple blends thereof.
In case of blended sliver of one or more other fibers each component is separately
processed through cardinglcombing and the individual slivers are subsequently blended
together on draw frames.
The most preferred other material to be used with wool is cotton. The cotton sliver is
prepared by processing through the blowroom, carding, drawing on drawframe,
combers, and final drawframes, and producing a 0.05 hank sliver and above.
After carding, the cotton sliver may be subjected to combing to remove short fibers. The
amount of noil, or fibers that are less than 12 mm are usually removed. The amount of
fibers removed ranges from 7% to 24 O/O of the weight of the feed material. For
example, the weight removed can be 8%, lo%, 12%, 15%, 16%, 18%, 20°/0, 22%, and
24% of the weight of the feed material.
Blending wool fiber slivers with slivers of one or more other material
The wool fiber's sliver(s) and slivers of other textile fibers have to be blended. They can
be blended by any method, like by Blending wool with the one or more other fiber
slivers in the draw frame or speedframe or ring frame to obtain blended slivers or
roving. More particularly any of the following methods can be used;
a. blending wool slivers with one or more other material slivers in the draw
frame
b. passage of already blended Wool & one or more other material fibre slivers
through drawframe or
c. blending of Wool sliver & other material sliver in speedframe or
d. blending of Wool roving as core spun with one or more other material fiber
roving in ring frame
The wool used for blending can also be separately blended, combed or blended,
combed, carded with other fibers before blending it with other fibers in the draw frame
or speedframe or ring frame.
Further, giving one or more draw frame passages for achieving the blending
homogeneity in radial direction is the ideal method of achieving through pores ( wool
would be homogenously distributed and dissolution would lead to homogenous pore
distribution) or hollow in the core ( wool is core spun and dissolution would lead to
hollow yarn) of the final yarn.
Pre s~inninqth e homo~eneouslvb lended strand
It involves drawing the homogeneously blended strand to roving and making a twisted
roving on speed frame. In conventional terminology this process step is termed as pre
spinning which prepares the material for the final yarn spinning.
The twisting of the roving with the wool fibers in the structure is done in the normal
fashion, i.e. with clockwise rotation of the flyer to give 'Z' twist. Alternatively, the roving
can have 'S' twist, by reversing the direction of the rotation of the flyer to a counterclockwise
direction.
The roving produced by these methods has a twist multiplier to optimize the working
conditions. The roving hank ranges usually from about 0.5 to about 3.0 hanks.
S~inninath e well blended rovinq
The yarn is then spun on the ringframes using the preferred blend settings, for example,
all of the setting parameters on ringframe are determined based on the type of wool
fibre and other materials used to make the yarn.
The yarn spun on the Ring Spinning has a count ranging from about Ne 6 s to about 40
s for terry fabrics and about Ne.lOs to about 100s for flat fabrics. Where doubled yarn is
to be made, two single yarns are doubled on two-for-one twisters with a TPI(twists per
inch) from about 5.5 to about 16.5 TPI in 'St direction or 'Z' direction. The twist direction
can be S over Z, S over Sf Z over S or Z over Z whichever is suitable or required. The
resultant counts would be about 21 6s to about 2/40s, for terry fabrics. Similarly the
doubled yarns for flat fabrics may be from about 1012s to about 10012s with about 35%
to about 85% of single yarn TPI as doubled yarn TPI in either Z over S or Z over Z or S
over S or S over Z configuration.
The fibre length of the wool fibers is about 20 mm to 40 mm (while it can vary up to
180 mm) (with longer middle cradle in the drafting zone) which can be used for
spinning in the cotton system. The machinery settings depend on the fiber length and
the settings will be as per the recommendation of the machine manufacturer for these
lengths. For the coarser count the same wool fibre blended sliver can be used on Open
End (OE ) spinning system to make the porous yarn for towel, rugs and carpet fabric.
OE stands for Open End (OE) spinning for example rotor spinning , a different spirining
technique of making yarn other than the ring spun yarn, where in the yarn is made
directly from sliver.
The processing parameters depend on the wool fiber and other material used in the
blend. The ring spun yarn is wound into large packages on the Autoconer using suitable
settings and process parameters.
Weavina or knittina the yarns to obtain fabric
A) TERRY FABRIC
Woven Terry fabrics (e.g. terry towels) are formed from three types of yarns: 1) Ground
Warp 2) Weft 3) Pile Warp. The first type of yarn is the ground warp. The ground warp
is the longitudinal set of yarn forming the base for fabric. The second type of yarn is
weft yarn. Weft yarn is perpendicular to ground yarn and interlace with ground yarn to
make a base fabric. Ground and Weft yarn form a base fabric in which third type of yarn
pile is hold in the form of loops. These loops are protruding outward and contributing to
thickness and bulk of fabric. These yarn are meant for absorbing water from surface e.g.
when used during bath.
The Ground yarn has a single or double count. Double count range from about Ne 2110s
to about Ne 2/40 s and single count from about Ne8s to about Ne 20s combed or
carded. Yarn can be made using any spinning technique e.g ring spinning, open end
spinning etc. In the preferred embodiment, the ground yarn is about 2120s carded ring
spun.
The weft yarn, has a count ranging from about Ne 7s to about Ne 30s generally both
cardedlcombed made with any spinning technique e.g Ring Spinning, Open End
Spinning etc. In the prescribed embodiment the weft is about Nel6s carded ring spun
yarn or 14s Open end spun yarn.
The Pile yarn has a single or double count. Double count range from about Ne 216s to
about Ne 2130s and single count from about Ne 6s to about Ne 32s combed or carded.
Yarn can be made using any spinning technique e.g ring spinning, open end spinning
etc. In the preferred embodiment, the pile yarn is about 12s Combed ring spun made
with the blended wool fibres.
The Twist Multiplier for weft yarn and ground yarn is from about 3.4 to about 5.4 Z twist
generally depending upon fiber and spinning technique.
The ground, weft, and pile yarns are woven together. The terry fabric is generally made
on 56s, 60s, 64s, 70s reeds; however, reed is not a limiting factor. The terry weave can
be 3 pick terry ,4 pick terry ,5 pick terry , 6 pick terry. The pile height can range from
about 2.5 mm to 10 mm. Most common is 4mm to 10 mm.
B) FLAT FABRIC
Flat fabrics are woven with warp and/or weft blended wool yarn. The fabric construction
depends on the end use and type of fabric to be made.
Pretreatment:
Wool fibres are dissolved out by caustic treatment. The concentration of caustic can
range from 3% to 20% of Caustic soda. . The liquor ratio is a ratio of the material
weight (Fabric) to water (Volume).The liquor ratio should be sufficient to facilitate
prompt dissolution of the wool/wool noil while allowing free movement of the fabric. The
liquor ratio ranges from about 1:2.5 to about 1:30. For example, the liquor ratio may be
1:2.5, 1:7, 1:12, 1:15, 1:20, 1:25, 1:22, or 1:28. This depends on dyeing machines
technology / setup available. Higher is the amount of water, easier is the removal of
wool . In the preferred embodiment the liquor ratio is 1:4.5 which is considered as
lowest in exhaust batch dyeing process in soft flow machines. In general liquor ratio
used is 1:7 in soft flow exhaust batch dyeing machines. In case dyeing is carried out in
winch or Jigger machines material to liquor ratio is as high as 1:20. It is however to be
noted that the product Quality is independent of liquor ratio.
In another embodiment, after washing, the liquor is drained and fresh water is injected
for rinsing and for eliminating all the wool. The water is at a temperature ranging from
about 30 degree Celsius to about 110 degree Celsius. Preferably, the water is at a
higher temperature, such as 100 degree Celsius. Therefore, the fabric is rinsed in hot
water after draining to wash away any wool fibre residue. This rinsing step also ensures
that any loose fibers drain out along with the drain water.
Dveina & Post treatment
After dissolving the wool fibre the fabric can be dyed or processed with normal dyeing
process recommended for the fiber used as base fiber(s). The fabric can be scoured,
bleached and dyed in the normal fashion in a fabric dyeing machine as per end use of
the product. While scouring, bleaching and dyeing, the operating temperature ranges
from about 50 degree Celsius to about 110 degree Celsius. However, temperature for
dissolving wool ranges from 30 Deg C to 110 Deg C depending on concentration of
caustic & percentage of wool.
The product quality is not dependent on dyeing process. I f Wool/Wool noil or other
caustic soluble fiber is removed properly during or before dyeing the yarn/fabric, thus
the product has improved properties.
After dyeing or washing fabric has to be dried. There are several ways for drying the
fabric. In present embodiment, drying is done through hydro extractor, rope opener,
loop dryer /tumble dryer and stenter.
The method of processing can also be continuous bleaching and/or continuous dyeing
range followed by hot air drying and stentering. Care is to be exercised to ensure that
the wool/wool noil dissolves completely, during the process.
EXAMPLES
The following example illustrates typical pile yarn manufacturing parameters, towel
manufacturing parameters, and processing details.
The Wool/ wool noil fiber used in this example is 32-40 micron diameter, 35-44 mm
length and blended with J34/S6 cotton of Indian origin with 2.5% span length of 27 to
32mm, micronaire of 3.8 to 5.0 fibre strength of 28 Gtex to 33 Gtex, and short fibre
index 3.0 to 8.5 %. The cotton and wool/wool noil fibers were blended to produce a pile
yarn containing 85% J 34/56 cotton Combed Sliver and 15% Wool/Wool noil.
The spinning process parameters and yarn properties for Wool/Wool noil Cotton Pile
Yarn are described below.
Cotton Sliver Preparation
The cotton used for the preferred embodiment of Ne 12s is 334 / S6 or MCU5 having the
following parameters:
Table 1:- Parameters of cotton used
2.5 % span length
Micronaire (pglinch)
27 to 32mm
3.8 to 5.0
The cotton is processed through blowroom having bale plucker, vario clean, unimix, and
ERM beater.
Fibre Strength (gm/tex)
Short fibre index
The cotton is processed from blowroom through to carding where the fibers are
individualized. The hank of the card sliver is maintained at 0.1 delivered from machine
at speed of 145 meterlminute.
27 to 33 gm/tex
3.0 to 8.5
The cotton sliver from carding is then processed through a breaker drawing where at
the feed end the number of doublings are 6 and a hank delivered kept at 0.12. The
delivery speed is 450 meters per minute. Since combing is necessary to remove short
fibers, the drawframe slivers are processed through unilap machine with 24 doublings
and formed into a lap of 75 gms / meter at a delivery speed of 120 meters/min.
The lap is processed on combing machine with 8 heads and one delivery resulting in a
hank of 0.10 .The combers worked at 350 nips / min with a backward feed of 5.2 mm
per nip.
Wool sliver preparation
The Wool/ wool noil fiber used is 35- 42 mm length & 25 - 40 micron diameter. Wool is
blended with combed /carded cotton (prepared by comber / carding machine) in
blowroom. Wool fibre from blowroom is transported through air channels to next stage
of carding machine. The card sliver (wool +cotton) is then processed through leveling
drawframe (with 1 or 2 passages as per requirement of homogeneity), with 6 to 8 ends
up keeping hank as required. The machine runs at 350 meter / minute.
Blendincl on Draw Frame :
A blending passage drawing with 5 ends up of combed cotton sliver and 1 leveled sliver
based on blend O/O required doubled at 200-450 meterslmin speed is given for mixing
and making the fibers more parallel with one another.
During the feeding of slivers in blending draw frame Cotton: Wool fibre blended sliver
remains in the centre of the cotton slivers. 6 to 8 blended sliver is again doubled and
drafted on the finisher draw frame for making the resultant sliver which is having
uniform transverse and longitudinal blend of cotton and wool fibre.
The hank of delivered sliver was 0.11s Ne and delivered through autolevelled (for
ensuring the mixing of two components in the final sliver) draw frame at a speed of 450
metre/min). The fibres in the delivered sliver are parallel, straightened and well mixed
across the radial and longitudinal direction. In the finisher drawframe wool and cotton
blended sliver cans are kept at the feed end of the speed frame and a roving of 0.55
hank is delivered after drafting and twisting of feed sliver. The hank of roving delivered
was 0.55 Ne.
The following table enumerates the properties of the preferred embodiment Ne 12s yarn
with wool/ cotton in the structure.
Table 2 and 3:- Properties of yarn
Lot Summary
Particular
Nominal Count
Mxg-
Act Count
COUNT CVO/o
U O/o
Thin (-50%)
Thick (+SO%)
Actual Results
12 CW
Cotton/ Wool=85/ 15
12.02
1.35
8.46
0
9
Table 3:-
Neps (+200°/0)
TOTAL
Hairiness
RKM
RKM CVO/o
ELONGATION
ELONGATION CVO/o
T. M
15
24
8.56
15.98
7.25
4.98
7.2
3.7
Lot Summary
Particular
Nominal Count
Mxg-
Act Count
COUNT CVO/o
U O/o
Thin (-50%)
Thick (+5O0/0)
Neps (+200°/0)
TOTAL
Hairiness
RKM
RKM CVO/o
EL0 NGATIO N
ELONGATION CVO/o
T. M
Actual Results
11 CW
Cotton/Wool=85/15
11.08
1.42
8.56
0
12
20
32
8.9
15.62
7.45
4.96
7.36
3.7
S~inninq
The well blended roving so produced on the speed frame is then spun into yarn on the
cotton ring spinning frame. In the preferred embodiment Ne 12s the roving of 0.55
hank is drafted about 26 times on the drafting system of ring frame and spun into yarn
with 12.8 TPI .The machine is generally run at 7000 to 18000 rpm. In the preferred
embodiment the speed is 11600 rpm. The yarn from ring frame bobbins is "cleared" and
wound into large packages at autoconer.
Example of the Process Darameters used in manufacturins yarn
Below is the list of process used and provided in Tables 5 to Table 10 describing process
parameters used in manufacture of yam comprising wool and one or more other fiber.
Table 4 - list of process used and provided in Tables 5 to Table 10 describing
process parameters used in manufacture of yam comprising wool and one or
more other fiber:
Name of Process
Blow Room
Carding
Levelling/Breaker
Unilap
Description of Process
Set of M/c with cylinders
with spikes/wire points in
gradual decrement in size
and increment in Nos
M/c with very fine wire
points on cylinders
M/c have Three Pair of Rolls
to Draw Sliver
Slivers from Breaker laid
beside one another and
wound in form of
Objective of Process
Opening of fiber into small
tufts and simultaneous
cleaning
Individualization of fibers,
Fine Cleaning and
Removal of fiber
entanglements (Neps).
Making Sliver of Uniform
thickness and Parallelizing
fibers
To make suitable package
form(Lap) for Combing
I I comb to comb cotton I and Neps from Cotton and 1
Comber
I I Fleece I converting Lap into Sliver 1
Simplex
Sheet(Lap)
Stationary and Revolving
1 M/c have Three Pair of Rolls
to Draw Sliver and
Autolevelling of Delivered
Sliver
Set of Rolls for drawing
sliver to form Roving and
Winding on Bobbins
Removal of Short fibers
Uniform sliver Wt/Unit
length with increased
Parallelization
To form suitable package
size to feed material in
Ring Frame
Winding
Set of Rolls to Draw Roving
and Twisting mechanism to
give strength.
Final Yarn Conversion
Electronic Clearer to
remove faults and Splicer to
join Yarn ends
I Yarn is wound on cones as 1 package wt required by
customer and ensured all
objectionable faults are
I Removed
Table 5:- Yarn made usina wool and 334 cotton
Process parameters for manufacturing yarn using wool fibre and J 34 cotton as base
material are provided. Parameters include all machine settings, Speed & Waste level of
Blowroom, Carding, Draw Frame, Unilap, Comber, Simplex, Ring frame, Winding for
spinning of Wool and 134 Cotton fiber
Sr No. Count
Fibre Parameters
Fibre dia (microns)
Fibre Length (mm)
12 Cw Air rich ( WOOL / J 34Cotton)
Wool
25 - 40
35 -42
Cotton
Fibre Upper half mean
length
I I Micronaire 1 I 4.59 I
Fibre strength
I I I
WOOL + Cotton
1
(gm/tex)
Blowroom
Mixing
MBO Beater 1 Speed
I I I
WOOL
(50%+50°/~)
450 rpm
1 MBO Beater 2 Speed 1 I I I
31.23
Cotton
100 O/O 1-34
450 rpm
650 rpm
1 Vario Clean
I I I
I I I
2 / Carding
650 rpm
Unimix
I I I
500 rpm
ERM 550 rpm
Speed
Cylinder Speed
I I
7.5 inch / min
I I I
100 m/min
450
Licker In Speed
1 3 I Levelling I Breaker / RSB ( levelling). I D0/6 - 1
150 m/min
500
Flat Speed
Flat Gauge
Output Hank
I I Break Draft I 1.16 I 1.7 I
650 950
(0.003175 m/s)
12,12,16,16,16
0.1
12,12,10,10,10
0.12
I I I I Roll Gauge
I I I 1 Speed
I I I
I I I
Unilap ( only for
42/46
Doubling
Input Hank
Output Hank
4 Cotton) 1 1 Not Appa:le For
Speed
40144
300 350
6
0.1
0.103
8
0.12
0.12
Break Draft
Lap Hank
Comber ( only for
76 gm/mtr
5
6
Cotton)
Nips / Min
Feed / Nip
Noil
Output Hank
I I
Finisher / Blender
Break Draft
Speed
Doubling
Output Hank
Not Applicable For
WOOL
I
RSB (Blending)
1.16
450 m/min
6 cotton / 1 WOOL ( WOOL in Center )
0.11
7
8
350
4.7 mm
l6.5O0/o
0.11
1
Spacer
Break Draft
Yarn Count (English
Simplex
Rov Hank
Speed
Spacer
TM
Ringframe
Speed
TM
4.5
1.2
9
0.55
850
9 mm
1.25
11600
3.9
System)
Winding
Winding Speed
Cone Weight
12s Ne
1300 m/min
2.52 kg
Table 6:- Example of Yarn made using wool and PIMA cotton
Process parameters for manufacturing yarn using wool fibre and PIMA cotton as base
material. Parameters include all machine settings, Speed & Waste level of Blowroom,
Carding, Draw Frame, Unilap, Comber, Simplex, Ring frame, Winding for spinning of
Wool and PIMA Cotton fiber
~r NO. I count 12 Cw Air rich ( WOOL / PIMA Cotton)
I I
Fibre Parameters 1 Wool I cotton
I I I 1 Fibre dia (microns) 25 - 40
I I I Fibre Length (mm) 35 - 42 / PIMA
Fibre Upper half mean I 1 length
I I i I
Fibre strength
I I I
I I I 1 I Blowroom
I
WOOL
Micronaire
I I WOOL + cotton I 1
4.22
/ I Mixing
I I 1 MBO Beater 1 Speed I 1
450 rpm
I I I
MBO Beater 2 Speed 1 650 rpm
I
2 ( Carding
I I
Vario Clean
Unimix
ERM
650 rpm
500 rpm
550 rpm
I I 1 Speed
I
100 m/min
1 I 1 Cylinder Speed
I
150 m/min
450
I I 1 Licker In Speed
1
I t I Flat Gauge
I I / 12,12,16,16,16 1 12,12,10,10,10
500
650
Flat Speed
950
7.5 inch / min
(0.003175 m/s)
3
4
Output Hank
Levelling / Breaker
Break Draft
Roll Gauge '
Speed
Doubling
5
6
Input Hank
Output Hank
Unilap ( only for
Cotton)
Speed
Break Draft
Doubling
Lap Hank
I I
0.1
RSB (
levelling).
1.16
46/50
400
6
I P- 1 Comber ( only for
Cotton)
Nips / Min
Feed / Nip
Noil
Output Hank
Finisher / Blender
Break Draft
Speed
Doubling
Output Hank
0.12
DO16
1.7
42/46
350
8
Not Applicable
0.1
0.103
Not Applicable
For WOOL
450 rn/rnin
6 cotton / 1 WOOL ( WOOL in Center )
0.12
7
0.12
0.12
E30
120
1.02
20
74 grn/rntr
For WOOL
350
5.2 rnrn
15.5O0/0
0.12
Simplex
Rov Hank
Speed
Spacer
TM
RSB (Blending)
1.16
0.55
850 rn/rnin
9 rnrn
1.25
Table 7:- Example of the air Rich Yarn made using S6 cotton
Process parameters for manufacturing yarn using S6 Cotton as the base material.
Parameters include all machine settings, Speed & Waste level of Blowroom, Carding,
Draw Frame, Unilap, Comber, Simplex, Ring frame, Winding for spinning of Wool and S6
Cotton fiber
11600 rpm
3.6
4.5mm
1.2
13s Ne
1300 m/min
2.52 kg
8
9
-
Ringframe
Speed
TM
Spacer
Break Draft
Yarn Count (English
System)
Winding
Winding Speed
Cone Weight
Sr No.
1
2
Count
Blowroom
Mixing
MBO Beater 1
Speed
MBO Beater 2
Speed
Carding
Speed
Cylinder Speed
Licker In Speed
Flat Speed
12 Cw Air rich ( WOOL / S 6)
WOOL
WOOL + Cotton
(50%+50°/~)
450 rpm
650 rpm
120 m/min
450
650
7.5 inch / min
Cotton
100 O/O S 6
150 m/min
500
950
I I / Flat Gauge
I
I
3 / Levelling / Breaker I RSB ( levelling). 1 I
DO16
12,12,16,16,16
I I I
12,12,10,10,10
Output Hank
I I
( Break Draft
I
0.1
1.16
Roll Gauge
0.12
1.7
I I I
42/46
Speed
I 1 Doubling
I
40144
6
I I 1 Input Hank
I
I I
Unilap ( only for
400
8
0.1
I I I
1 4 / cotton) I 1 E30 1
350
0.12
Output Hank
I Break Draft
0.103
I I Speed
I I Doubling
0.12
120
I I Lap Hank
I 1 Com ber ( only for I I
I Feed / Nip
I
Not Applicable For 20
WOOL 74 gm/mtr
I I Noil
I I
6 I Finisher / Blender 1 I
RSB (Blending)
I I Output Hank
I / Speed 450 m/min 1
Not Applicable For
I I / Doubling 6 cotton / 1 WOOL ( WOOL in Center )
15.50%
WOOL
I I I Output Hank 0.12
0.12
I I
7 I Simplex
I I 1 ROV Hank
I I
0.55
1 Speed
I t I
850 m/min.
Spacer 9 mm
Table 8:- Example of the air Rich Yarn made using MCU5 cotton
Process parameters for manufacturing yarn using MCU 5 cotton as base material.
Parameters include all machine settings, Speed & Waste level of Blowroom, Carding,
Draw Frame, Unilap, Comber, Simplex, Ring frame, Winding for spinning of wool fibre
and MCU5 Cotton fiber
8
9
I I
Fibre Parameters I Wool I cotton
TM
Ringframe
Speed
TM
Spacer
Break Draft
Winding
Winding Speed
Cone Weight
~r NO. / count
I I I
Fibre diameter
1.25
11600 rpm
3.5
4.5 mm
1.2
1300 m/min
2.52 kg
12 Cw Air rich ( WOOL / MCU 5 Cotton)
I / (microns) 1 25 - 40 1 I
Fibre Upper half mean
I 1 1 Fibre Length (mm)
I I
35 -42 MCU 5
length
Micronaire
Fibre strength
I I _1
WOOL + Cotton 1
32.2 mm
4.03
1
(gm/tex)
Blowroom
Mixing
MI30 Beater 1 Speed
WOOL
(5O0/0+ 50%)
450 rpm
33.51
100 '10 MCU 5
I I MBO Beater 2 Speed 1 650 rprn I I I I
I I I
2 / Carding
I Vario Clean
Unimix
ERM
650 rpm
500 rpm
550 rpm
I I I 1 Speed
I I I
I I
7.5 inch / min
Cylinder Speed
I I I
100 m/min
Licker In Speed
I I I
RSB (
150 m/min
450
Flat Speed
Flat Gauge
Output Hank
500 rpm
650 950 rpm
(0.003175 m/s)
12,12,16,16,16
0.1
3
12,12,10,10,10
0.12
I I I
Levelling / Breaker
Break Draft
( Roll Gauge
I I 1 Speed
I
400
I I 1 Doubling
I
leveling).
1.16
42/46
350
6
I I I
DO16
1.7
40144
8
I Input Hank
I I 1 Output Hank
1
0.103
4
0.1
0.12
Speed
Break Draft
I I I Lap Hank
I
74 gm/mtr
0.12
Unilap ( only for
Cotton)
120
1.02
I I I I Doubling
I 5 1 cotton) I For WOOL I I
Not Applicable
For WOOL
20
Comber ( only for
E30
Not Applicable
I I 1 / Feed / Nip
I
5.2 mm
I I I
I I I / Noil 15.5O0/0
/ Nips / Min 350
Output Hank 0.12
6 Finisher / Blender RSB (Blending)
Break Draft 1.16
Speed 450 m/min
Doubling 6 cotton / 1 WOOL ( WOOL in Center )
Output Hank 0.12
7 Simplex
Rov Hank 0.55
Speed 850 m/min
Spacer 9 mm
TM 1.25
8 Ringframe
Speed 11600
TM 3.4
Spacer 4.5
Break Draft 1.2
Yarn Count (English
System) 12s Ne
9 Winding
Winding Speed 1300 m/min
--
Cone Weight 2.52 kg
Fabric Manufacturinq
The specifications kept for manufacturing the fabric is given in the table below:
Table 9: Towel manufacturing specification
INQ SIZE WXL 76.2 137.16 LOOM Toyota
C.M
LOOM SIZE 340
FINISH PDD PICED PROCESSED 30.0 54.0 TYPE TOWEL
DYED

Treatment of fabric/ yarn to remove wool:
Fabric / yarn processing comprise following stages:
WEIGHT
GMS
85.26
14.04
99.30
a. Treating of fabric/ yarn in a dyeing machine with Caustic at 6% by weight of
fabric & with M : L Ratio (material to liquor) - 1: 4.5 for a duration of 30 min at a
temperature of around 100 degree Celsius.
b. Caustic will dissolve Wool fibre present in the fabric/ yarn to produce air space or
voids in the form of porous or hollow structure
The towels with wool or wool/cotton blend yarn in the pile and cotton yarn in weft and
ground is processed in the dyeing house in the rope form. The dyeing process comprises
of dissolving Wool during pretreatment followed by normal cotton dyeing process. Wool
dissolving is done in normal pretreatment with increased caustic content in soft flow
machines. Pretreatment is done in one step using caustic soda and hydrogen peroxide.
Dyeing is as the standard cotton dyeing process for reactive dyeing. After dyeing,
softeners are added in acidic medium in order to regain softness of the cotton fiber.
Softeners used in terry toweling are silicon basedlnon-ionic, hydrophilic so that
absorbency due to softener does not reduce.
159
NAME
4. WEFT SPECIFICATIONS
WEFT
1
2
TOTAL
PICKS
2194
258
2452
COUNT
14
10
SHADE NO.
11140~
2/20
COMBED
PRESHRUNK
1 Example of different Terry Towel Products made
Below table comprises of various examples of fabrics made using yarn of wool and one
or more other fibers. In this table column 5 has the description of the yarn used in pile
I of terry fabric.
I
I Table 10: - various examples of fabrics made using yam of wool and one or
more other fibers
I Although the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments, this
description is not meant to be construed in a limiting sense. Various modifications of the
disclosed embodiments, as well as alternate embodiments of the invention, will become
I apparent to persons skilled in the art upon reference to the description of the invention.
I It is therefore contemplated that such modifications can be made without departing
from the spirit or scope of the present invention as defined. It is also to be understood
that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments
only, and is not intended to limit the scope of present invention.
SORTNO
SDP205248
SDP205312
SDP205313
SDP205517
SIZE IN CM
GSM
593
506
506
600
LENGTH
142.24
137.16
137.16
142.24
WIDTH
76.2
76.2
76.2
76.2
Pile COUNT
1/11 3-34 Cotton
Wool 85+15
1/12 3-34 Cotton
Wool 85+15
1/12 3-34 Cotton
Wool 85+15
1/12 MCU-5 Cotton
Wool 85+15
Ground
COUNT
2/24kw
2/20 KW
2/20 KW
2/2OKW
Pile
.Heigh
t
6.6
6.2
6.2
6.8
WER
COUNT
1/120W
1/14 OW
1/14 OW
1/16KW
0/0Wool
15%
1S0/o
1 5'10
15 O/o
PICKS/
CM
17
15.5
15.5
18

We Claim:
1. A process for making a fabric comprising;
a. blending or mixing wool with one or more other textile fibers to form
yarn;
b. weaving or knitting using the yarn obtained in step a) as at least one of
the components; and
c. removing wool by dissolving to form air voids.
2. A process for making a yarn comprising: blending or mixing wool with one or more other
textile fibers; spinning or doubling; and removing wool by dissolving to form air voids.
3. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein step (c) is performed before (b).
4. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein step a) further comprises the step of
spinning or doubling the blended fibers.
5. The process as claimed in claim any of the claims 1 or 3, wherein the yarn used in the
fabric is a single or multiple-ply yarn.
6. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fabrics are woven fabrics or Knitted
fabrics.
7. The process as claimed in claim 1,2 or 3, wherein the yarns are warp yarns, weft yarns,
course yarn, wales yarn, or pile yarn or a combination thereof.
8. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fabric is a flat fabric or terry fabric or
toweling fabric.
44
9. Th.e process as claimed in any of the claims 1, 2 or 3, wherein the one or more other
textile fibers are selected from the group consisting of natural, regenerated, recycled or
synthetic textile fibers or blends thereof.
10. The process as claimed in any of the claims 1, 2, or 3, wherein the air voids are formed
by dissolving wool by treating with caustic.
11. The process as claimed in any of the claims 1, 2 or 3 wherein the wool fibers are mixed
or blended to be incorporated in the core of the yarn creating hollow structure, or to be
randomly distributed in the yarn, or to be homogeneously distributed throughout the
cross-section of the yarn.
12. The process as claimed in any of the claims 1, 2, 3 or 11 wherein yarn is formed by;
a) blending the wool fibers with one or more other textile fibers by any blending
process selected from the group consisting of; (i) wool fibers blending with one
or more other fibers in blow room ; (ii) making sliver of wool and one or more
other textile fibers separately and blending in Draw Frame; (iii) making Sliver of
wool and one or more other textile fibers separately and blending it in speed
Frame; (iv) or making roving of wool and roving of one or more other textile
fiber separately and blending it in ring-frame as core spun to form fiber blends;
and
b) spinning or doubling the blends of step (a) by any of the spinning techniques
selected from the group consisting of ring spinning, Open-End Spinning, friction
spinning to form yarn.
13. The process of manufacturing as claimed in claim 12, wherein the wool fibers can be
blended, carded and optionally combed with one or more other fibers before step a).
14. The process of manufacturing as claimed in claim 1 or 3, wherein the fabric formed can
be further processed.
45
a
15. The process of manufacturing as claimed in claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the yarn formed
can be processed before weaving or knitting to make fabric.
16. The process of manufacturing fabric as claimed in claim 12, wherein the direction of
spinning or doubling is S twist or Z Twist direction or vice versa.
17. A fabric manufactured by the process as claimed in claim 1 or 3.
18. A yarn manufactured by the process as claimed in claim 2.
19. A yarn comprising air voids produced by blending or mixing wool with one or more other
fibers; spinning or doubling and removing wool by dissolving to form air spaces.
20. The yarn as claimed in claim 19, wherein the one or more other textile fibers are
selected from the group consisting of natural, regenerated, recycled or synthetic textile
fibers or blends thereof.
21. The yarn as claimed in claim 19, wherein wool is removed by dissolving to form air voids
by treating with caustic.
22. A fabric comprising the yarn as claimed in claim 19.
23. A fabric comprising yarns with air voids produced by blending or mixing wool with one
or more other fibers to form yarn; weaving or knitting using the yarn as at least one of
the components; and removing wool by dissolving to form air spaces.
24. The fabric as claimed in claim 22 or 23, wherein the fabric is a flat fabric or terry fabric
or toweling fabric.
46
25. The fabric as claimed in claim 22 or 23, wherein the one or more other textile fibers are
selected from the group consisting of natural, regenerated, recycled or synthetic textile
fibers or blends thereof.
26. The fabric as claimed in claim 22 or 23, wherein wool is removed by dissolving to form
air voids by treating with caustic.
27. The fabric as claimed in claim 22 or 23, wherein the fabric can have 1 or more ply.
28. The fabric as claimed in claim 22 or 23 can have S twist or Z Twist direction in spinning
or Doubling.