FORM 2
THE PATENT ACT 1970 (39 of 1970)
&
The Patents Rules, 2003 COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See Section 10, and rule 13)
1. TITLE OF INVENTION
AN IMPROVED METHOD OF MANUFACTURING A GARMENT
2. APPLICANT(S)
a) Name : KEWAL KIRAN CLOTHING LTD.
b) Nationality : INDIAN Company
c) Address : KEWAL KIRAN ESTATE,
460/7, I. B. PATEL ROAD,
NEAR TIRUPATI UDYOG,
GOREGAON (EAST), MUMBAI - 400 063
MAHARASHTRA, INDIA
3. PREAMBLE TO THE DESCRIPTION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed : -

FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention in general relates to an improved method of manufacturing a garment and in particular to a method of manufacturing an improved garment with better aesthetic looks, fashion, appeal and longevity involving a novel stitching.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Traditionally the appearance of garments depends on the type of fabric and stitching techniques. It has been a pursuit since long to apply new designs and stitching styles to variety of fabrics so as to raise its aesthetic value, looks and appeal. Further various stitching and cutting styles were formulated which made the garments more fashionable and fitting. But every kind of cloth or fabric requires different stitching techniques, as what is suited for one quality might not look attractive in other qualities and varieties of cloth.
An example be sought in denim garments. Denim garments have become extremely popular due to its durability and longevity. But denim garments cannot be manufactured and stitched like normal garments. Designs and stitching techniques used in normal garments do not suit mostly for denim garments. Thus there has been long felt need in the art to develop newer stitching and garment manufacturing techniques, which possess greater aesthetic looks, fashion, appeal and longevity. Further there has been always a prevalent need in the art to develop newer ways for developing garments which rendered new looks and aesthetic beauty thus greater market value.
However, it has been observed over the years that stitching operations need to be performed in varying combinations of rotational directions to obtain aesthetic patterns of varieties with precision and strength. For example, during sewing operation, various combinations of say vertical and/or horizontal steps of stitching are required to be implemented to obtain varieties of stitching patterns with

precision and strength, on the item to be stitched, so that the final product is appealing and has broad market value as well as longevity. Furthermore, high production efficiency and succinct operation are coveted to ensure such varieties and broad market value as well as longevity. Unfortunately, sewing machine assemblies known in the art are far from being satisfactory, so far as their adaptability to performance of sewing operation in various combinations of rotational directions during sewing is concerned.
Research is on for a considerable period of time to design a methodology which are adaptable to performance of sewing operation in various combinations of rotational directions during sewing. Significant achievement in that view of the matter is yet to be achieved.
Accordingly, there is a long felt need to design a method of manufacturing a garment, which involves a new stitching style and renders an improved garment having higher longevity apart from having an aesthetic, appealing and fashionable look.
The present invention meets the aforesaid long felt needs.
All through out the specification including the claims, the words "sewing", "sewing machine", "sewed/stitched", "fabric", "machine ", "surge", "needle ", "nylon", "cloth", "fabric", "jeans/apparel" are to be interpreted in the broadest sense of the respective terms and includes all similar items in the field known by other terms, as may be clear to persons skilled in the art. Restriction/limitation, if any, referred to in the specification, is solely by way of example and understanding the present invention.
OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION
It is the principal object of the present invention to provide a method of manufacturing an improved garment with better aesthetic looks, fashion, appeal and longevity.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a a method of manufacturing an improved garment whereby novel sewing pattern and high production efficiency are ensured and also broad market value as well as longevity and public acceptance of aesthetic patterns on stitched products are ensured.
It is yet another object of the present invention to meet the demands of the market regarding look, tonal variation, feel and fashion of the final product.
It is another object of the present invention to start a new fashion trend in the market to give a distinct look.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method of manufacturing an improved garment such as a jeans by applying a specially designed sewing machine whereby desired aesthetic patterns are obtained on final stitched products with greater degree of precision, strength and variety.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method of stitching an item such as a jeans/apparel whereby fashionable look with extra strength and macho look is obtained on the final product.
How the foregoing objects are achieved and the other aspects of the present invention will be clear from the following description which is purely by way of understanding and not by way of any sort of limitation.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Accordingly, the present invention provides a method for manufacturing a garment comprising of, cutting, stitching, washing, canonization and finishing of the garment, said procedure of cutting and stitching comprising steps of: - surging and stitching the front and back panels of the garment along in seams separately,

- stitching the side seams with a nylon tape of predetermined width by a 60 wrap * 60 weft stitch exactly along the centre,
- stitching the front and coin pocket in a similar fashion by said tape in a similar manner,
- stitching the back pocket by placing said tape in between inner extra margin region of said back pocket,
- turning raw garment prepared inside out,
followed by washing, cationization and finally finishing of said garment.
Preferably, the method of stitching comprises:
- pre-shrinking 2.5 inches width nylon tape on which the desert stitches at intervals are made vertically and horizontally in succession,
- said nylon tape being stitched at one edge of the seam of the fabric and the other seams are overlapped on it so as to obtain deep the furrows and rejest in the stitch fabric,
- repeating above step in the longitudinal direction of the trousers, pockets, as well as the back pockets and even the vest part, to have similar effect.
More preferably, the stitching subsequent to surging of said front and back panel comprises of a five-thread lock stitch and the step of finishing includes desizing, scovering, bleaching and dyeing along with rinsing and stone washing.
The present invention also provides a garment obtained by the method as described above whereby the side seams of said garment strongly resembles a perfect emboss look
The present invention also provides a sewing machine such as herein described applied for carrying out the method as described hereinabove.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING DRAWINGS :
The nature and scope of the present invention, will be better understood from the accompanying drawings, which are by way of illustration of some preferred embodiments and not by way of any sort of limitation. In the accompanying drawings,
Figure 1 illustrates a side view of a preferred embodiment of finished garment prepared by the method of stitching as in the present invention.
Figure 2a and 2b illustrates a preferred embodiment of the nylon tape used in method of making garment as in the present invention.
Figures 3, 4 and 5 illustrate some preferred steps of method of stitching in accordance with the present invention.
Figure 6 illustrates a method of finishing garment according to a preferred aspect of the present invention
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The following describes some preferred embodiments of the present invention, which are purely for the sake of understanding the performance of the invention, and not by way of any sort of limitation.
As stated herein before the present invention discloses a method of manufacturing an improved garment with better aesthetic looks, fashion, appeal and longevity involving a novel stitching pattern. The entire process of manufacture possess cumulative process steps involving a novel stitching process, followed by a washing, cationizing and a finishing stage.

Figure 1 illustrates a side view of preferred embodiment of finished garment prepared by the method of stitching as in the present invention. The novel method of stitching (1) is identified in the form of an enlarged view beside the said figure.
The process steps are explained in details in a serial manner in the below mentioned paragraphs:
As mentioned the product/garment manufacture undergoes through various stages as follows:
1. The front and back panels are separately surged (in short "cutting process of fabric) keeping in mind to keep additional margin of fabric to achieve the desired look.
2. The surged back and Front panels are then finished together at the edges in the "in seams" by incorporating a special "five" thread over lock stitch.
3. This process helps to prevent it from fraying.
4. The process of the "FIVE THREAD" is not done on "side seams".
5. The DESIGN process is done by incorporating the "Y-FI" stitch.
6. This " Y-FI stitch" is already patented product.
7. This Y-FI stitch which is 60wrap * 60weft. which gives the desired height for the " DESIGN" look.
8. This process is incorporated by the help of pre-shrunk 1" width nylon tape.
9. On the said tape the desired "Y-FI STITCH" is incorporated.
10. Special care is taken that the stitch is done exactly at the centre, else the entire look /alignment is disturbed.
11. Once the stitching is completed the entire tape is thoroughly scrutinized to ensure that the stitching is done at equal distance in order to derive a desired effect.
12. Once ready a special care is taken to ensure that the tape is perfectly placed as the same is not visible but can only be felt during the stitching process.

13. Once the inspection is done the said tape is placed in between the two stitches of the front facing of the pockets.
14. Whilst doing this the tape is notched at the curves so as it enables the tape to take the curve shape as per the front facing pocket.
15. This is stitched by a "FRONT POCKET" swing folder machine.
16. The next stage is the coin pocket.
17. The design look is now done on a vertical line as per the design required.
18. Once the above two stages are done , the side seams are then stitched together.
19. Whilst doing the above , one needs to take a special care to ensure that the tape is perfectly placed as the same is not visible but can only be felt.
20. Above process (stitching of the side seams) is done in a folder.
21. Once again a special care is taken to ensure that the stitches are not loose on the reverse side as they may tend to open up.
22. In-case if there is any loose stitching/ there are chances that we may not get the desired effect
23. If the above is not up to the mark, the whole process needs to be opened up and redone
24. One needs to ensure that the shade of the thread will synergies with desired look to give the right cosmetic.
25. Also one needs to ensure that the shade of the tread has to be in synergie with the original color of the denim.
26. This will ensure that the the design look is enhanced.
27. After the above process is over the same is done on the Back pockets seams.
28. This is carried out while attaching the back pocket to the back by placing the said tape in between the inner extra margin region of the back pocket.
29. The same process is carried out for the back York in which the nylon tape is placed & stitched exactly at the sides of the y-fi stitch which is placed in between the inner extra margin region of the york .
30. After the above process the garment is assembled together in the assembly unit.

31. Thus the raw garment is ready for the next stage.
32. The raw garment is then turned" inside out".
33. Once done, the raw denim garment is ready for wash process.
It should be understood by persons skilled in the art, that the garment has been referred to as denim, only for the sake of understanding the present invention, and not by any sort of limitation, as the present invention and method can be equally applied to a variety of garments as would be understood by persons skilled in art.
Figures 2a and 2b illustrate the nylon tape (2, 2') used in method of making garment in accordance with the present invention. According to the present invention the nylon tape (2) is pre-shrunk twill tape on which the y-fi stitch is done (2') as shown in figure 2b.
Figures 3, 4 and 5 illustrate the steps of method of stitching as elaborated in the above mentioned paragraphs of cutting, stitching and joining the garment to the possess the new look.
Figure 3 illustrates a side view of the surged front (3) and back panels (3') of the denim, which are to be stitched together by following the method as, disclosed as in the present invention.
Figure 4 illustrates the position of stitching the nylon tape (2,2') on the reverse side of the denim to result in the desired look in the front side.
Figure 5 illustrates different areas of stitching of the denim by the method as in the present invention.
The washing stage follows the process steps of stitching which is explained in details in the below mentioned lines:

WASHING STAGE:
34. In the washing stage, there are two different process whereby one gets two
different looks in The design' look.
NATURAL LOOK. & OVER DYED LOOK:
35. To achieve a natural "The design" look, the garment undergoes "laser" technique to generate whiskers, which enhances the look.
36. In continuation of the above process the garment then undergoes "abrasion" process by (fine quality of sand) sand blasting.
37. After the above process, the garment is manually hand scraped by the help of a polish paper on the side seams ,back pockets, lower belt area, front facing pockets, back York and the coin pocket(all areas where the said tape is used in between seams)
38. Special care needs to be taken to insure that no stitches side of the the designed areas is cut during the process .
39. This can be avoided by placing the finger on the stitch while scraping the the design areas.
40. After the above is completed then the raw garment is taken for the wet process.
41. In the wet process the raw garment is put in the washing machine for desize process in which desizeing agent is used to get rid of all free starch.
42. On completion of desizeing, the garment is then washed with pumice stones in the machine, rotated clock and anti-clock wise for around 40-50 minutes along with " Denimax pb" enzyme to achieve the desired look.
43. Along with the same, temperature also has to be kept between "50 to 55" degrees.
44. After the above, the garment is now "turned inside-out" and immediately treated with cold water which helps in "surface cleaning" .
45. This also ensures that there is no deposits of "pumice stone" left behind.

46. Again the garment is turned the other way around( real side).
47. Then the garment is "Tumble Dry" and ready for next stage.
48. Then "PP" (potassium permanganate) is sprayed on desired areas so as to enhance the "The design" look.
49. The garment than undergoes "neutralizing" process to further achieve the desired look.
50. The garment is further washed with "softening agent" for a smoother hand feel.
51. It is then again "TUMBLE DRIED" and readied for finishing process.
OVERDYED PROCESS:
52. The over dyed process starts with "desizing".
53. This is done at 90-100 degree temp, maintaning the water ph value between 9 to 10
54. A special precaution has to be taken that the water is "soft" or a suitable sequesting agent needs to be added.
55. The function of "sequesting" agent is to maintain the water (at 50ppm) hardness.
56. The entire process is runned for 20-25 mins.
57. After which the temp is gradually raised to 70 degrees @2 degrees /minute.
58. The bath is then given a cold water wash and drained.
Subsequent to the washing stage the garment undergoes the cationization process as mentioned below:
CATIONIZATION PROCESS:
59. The garment is further taken for CATIONIZATION which is done prior to the actual dyeing process.
60. The garment is taken out of the vessel and shifted to another vessel,

61. The dyeing is done with the help of special "qutron" dyes .
62. The vessel is maintained at room temp in which the ph is controlled at 8-10 .
63. Glauber salt is added to the tune of approx. 20-30% weight of fabric.
64. The process is rurvned for 10 minutes till the temp reaches 90 degrees, gradually reached @ 2 degree/min.
65. The function of "glauber salt" ensures for betterment of color depthness.
66. Drain the bath and rinse it thoroughly with cold water.
67. The garment now goes through "fixation process" this is done for better color fastening.
68. Once the above is over we need to repeat the process as per the natural look.
FINISHING STAGE, which comprises the final stage of manufacturing the garment:
Riveting, buttoning and Labeling is being incorporated as per specification , which is
further treated with "STEAMBLAST" with the help of the Hopper.
The entire above stages once done , the "side seams" of the garment strongly
resembles a perfect "The design look ".
Figure 6 illustrates a finishing stage of the garment as manufactured according to the
method as in the present invention. In said figure an enlarged view of how the
finished stitched nylon tape (2') undergoes a dry process with sand paper is
illustrated.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a method of stitching applying and sewing machine assembly whereby desert aesthetics patterns are obtained with greater degree of precision, strength and variety, hitherto not achievable before.
The process comprises a pre-shrunk at least 2.5 inches width nylon tape on which the desert stitches at intervals are made vertically and horizontally in succession as per said method to be given to the stitch fabric. The nylon tape is stitched at one

edge of the seem of the fabric and the other seems is overlap on it. So as to obtain deep the furrows in the stitch fabric.
This process is carried out during the making of the garment such as this effect may have in the longitudinally direction of the trousers, its pocket as well as the back pocket and even the vest part. This the garment that produce has to undergo several processes such as the resizing, scovering, bleaching and even dyeing along with rinsing and stone washing as the case may be the special care should be taken for the patent as desired. The temperature of the liquor does not go beyond 55°C. The entire process is carried out in the ambient temperature without any heating process.
The present invention also discloses a sewing machine assembly for stitching of jeans and other apparels, basically including a sewing machine operatively connected to a specially designed tool, such as a folder means, whereby the jeans/ apparel are stitched in various combinations of rotational directions, such as but not limited to vertical and/or horizontal steps of stitching. By applying such assembly a method of stitching of jeans and other apparels are implemented according to the present invention, whereby stitching of the jeans/apparel in various combination of rotational motions such as but not limited to vertical and/or horizontal steps are done. These coherently facilitate achieving the objects of the present invention as stated hereinbefore.
The present invention has been described with reference to some drawings and preferred embodiments, purely for the sake of understanding and not by way of any limitation and the present invention includes all legitimate developments within the scope of what has been described hereinbefore and claimed in the appended claims

WE CLAIM:
1. A method for manufacturing a garment comprising of, cutting, stitching,
washing, canonization and finishing of the garment, said procedure of cutting
and stitching comprising steps of:
a. surging and stitching the front and back panels of the garment along in
seams separately
b. stitching the side seams with a nylon tape of predetermined width by a
60 wrap * 60 weft stitch exactly along the centre
c. stitching the front and coin pocket in a similar fashion by said tape in a
similar manner
d. stitching the back pocket by placing said tape in between inner extra
margin region of said back pocket
e. turning raw garment prepared inside out,
followed by washing, cationization and finally finishing of said garment.
2. The method as claimed in claim 1 wherein said procedure of washing
comprises of:
desizing said raw garment at 90 - 100 c C water maintaining said water
ph at 9 to 10,
raising said temperature gradually to 70 degrees at 2 degrees/min for
20-25 min,
giving a cold water wash and draining subsequently, said procedure of cationization comprising steps of:
dyeing with the help of special qutron dyes,
adding glauber salt by weight of 20-30% by weight of the fabric,
raising temperature upto 90 degrees over 10 min at 2 degrees per
minute,
draining with cold water, and said process of finishing comprises steps of, riveting, buttoning, labeling and treating with steam blast.

3. The method as claimed in any one of claims 1 or 2 wherein said method of
stitching comprises:
pre-shrinking 2.5 inches width nylon tape on which the desert stitches
at intervals are made vertically and horizontally in succession,
said nylon tape being stitched at one edge of the seam of the fabric and
the other seams are overlapped on it so as to obtain deep the furrows
and rejest in the stitch fabric,
repeating above step in the longitudinal direction of the trousers,
pockets, as well as the back pockets and even the vest part, to have
similar effect.
4. The method as claimed in claims 1 to 3, wherein the stitching subsequent to surging of said front and back panel comprises of a five-thread lock stitch and the step of finishing includes desizing, scovering, bleaching and dyeing along with rinsing and stone washing.
5. The method as claimed in claims 1 to 4, wherein the said nylon tape is of 1 to 2.5 inch width and the pockets of said garment are stitched by a swing folder machine.
6. The method as claimed in claims 1 to 5, wherein at said washing stage the garment undergoes laser technique to generate whiskers for enhancement of natural look, followed by abrasion process by means of sand blasting for enhancement of natural look and the said stage of cationization is repeated to get the desired natural look.
7. The method as claimed in claims 1 to 6, wherein at said washing stage the garment undergoes spraying of potassium permanganate for enhancement of look.

8. The method as claimed in claims 1 to 7, wherein the garment after manufacture goes through fixation process for better colour fastening.
9. The method as claimed in claims 1 to 8 wherein the method is carried out in the ambient temperature without any heating process.
10. A garment obtained by the method as claimed in any preceding claim
whereby the side seams of said garment strongly resembles a perfect emboss
look.
11. A sewing machine such as herein described applied for carrying out the
method as claimed in claims 1 to 9.