The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising at least one henna plant powder and/or at least one indigo-producing plant, at least one fatty substance and at least one clay. It also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres using the anhydrous composition.
In the field of dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, several processes may be used.
A first process for dyeing human keratin fibres implies dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
The shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be modified by combining them with couplers or coloration modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
A second process for dyeing human keratin fibres is known as direct dyeing or semi-permanent dyeing. It comprises the application of direct dyes, which are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for fibres. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend rather to remain on the surface of the fibre and penetrate relatively little into the fibre, when compared with the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors. The main advantages of this type of dyeing are that it does not require any oxidizing agent, which limits the degradation of the fibres, and that it does not use any dyes that have particular reactivity, resulting in limitation of the intolerance risks.
The first hair dyes were semi-permanent. One of the best known natural dyes is that derived from the henna plant. Henna is still used in feminine beauty enhancement for colouring the hair, the nails

exampleor the skin, as well as for dyeing leather, silk and wool. It is also used traditionally for various important events, celebrations and beliefs.
This dye affords an orange-red coloration on grey hair, and a "warm" i.e. coppery to red colour on chestnut-brown hair.
Another well-known natural dye is indigo, (see Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, Hair preparation, point 5.2.3, 2006 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim; 10.1002/14356007.al2 571.pub2). Indigo continues to be used for feminine beauty enhancement by dyeing the hair or the nails, or for dyeing fabrics (jeans), leather, silk, wool, etc. Indigo [482-89-3] is a natural dye, originating in particular from the indigo plant, and having
the empirical formula: C16H10N2O2; and having the structure:
O H

Indigo is derived from indican and may be prepared from various plants known as indigo-producing plants such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffruticosa, Isatis tinctoria, etc. (see Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, updated on 17/04/2009, DOI: 10.1002/0471238961.0425051903150618.a01.pub2). The indigo-producing plants are generally chopped and soaked in hot water, heated, fermented and oxidized in the open air to liberate the purple-blue coloured indigo (see Chem. Rev. 2011, 111, 2537-2561, p. 2537-2561). Indigo is the result of the fermentation, in the presence of P-glucosidases, and then oxidization of indican (glycosyl precursor). The indigo molecule is insoluble in water.
However, the dyeing process using those natural dyes is difficult to perform. A kind of "paste" (often referred to as a "poultice") is first made from ground or powdered henna leaves or indigo-producing plants, which is then diluted at the time of use with warm water, and the said paste is then applied to the keratin fibres.

This process using the said paste has drawbacks. A lumpy mixture is obtained and due to this poor consistency of the composition obtained from the coarsely ground powder, it is not always possible to obtain a satisfactory impregnation during the application of the composition to keratin fibres.
Furthermore, the leave-on time of the said paste is very long. It may vary from several tens of minutes to several hours (overnight) depending on the desired intensity, with no ability to control the result. The result varies as a function of the fibres to be dyed and of the henna or indigo raw material used.
As much as the colour obtained on chestnut-brown hair has a natural look, grey hair is dyed and an unaesthetic and unnatural orange colour with henna or blue colour with indigo is obtained ("Hair preparations", Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.).
In addition, the colorations obtained are not always uniform between the root and the end or from one fibre to another {The Science of Hair Care, C. Bouillon, J. Wilkinson, 2d Ed., CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group; Boca Raton, London, pp. 236-241 (2005)).
There is thus a real need to develop compositions for dyeing keratin fibres which have a good consistency and are stable.
In particular, there is a need to provide a natural dye-based dyeing composition that does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, that is readily miscible (rapid breakdown) in water, and that can especially result in colorations that are fast and homogeneous, while at the same time remaining chromatical, intense and rich.
The Applicant has now discovered that these aims and others could be achieved by means of the combination of at least one henna plant powder and/or at least one indigo-producing plant, at least one fatty substance and at least one clay.
This particular combination allows obtaining stable anhydrous compositions having a nice texture of the paste, namely a texture like a body balm or butter, and when mixed with water, results in a creamy

composition. Moreover, it is possible to incorporate therein amounts of natural dye up to 60 % by weight of the composition.
By "stable composition" is meant a composition which shows the same efficacy as at tO, and no sign of phase separation and discoloration, and which is not malodorous, when stored at a given temperature ranging from 0 to 50 °C, during a period ranging from 1 day to two months.
Therefore, a subject-matter of the present invention is directed to an anhydrous composition for dyeing keratin fibres comprising at least one henna plant powder and/or at least one indigo-producing plant, at least one fatty substance and at least one clay.
The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which consists in mixing a composition according to the invention with water, and applying the mixture obtained to the keratin fibres, and in rinsing.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In the text herein below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
According to the invention, the anhydrous composition for dyeing keratin fibres comprises:
(i) one or more henna plant powder(s) and/or one or more indigo-producing plant(s), (ii) one or more and fatty substance(s), and (iii) one or more clay(s).
By "anhydrous" is meant a composition comprising a water amount of less than 1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.5 % by weight, more preferably less than 0.05 % by weight of the total composition, and better no water.

The first essential component (i) of the anhydrous composition according to the invention is the henna plant powder(s) and/or the indigo-producing plant(s).
Henna plant(s)
According to the invention, the henna plant powder used therein is different from an extract. Specifically, an extract is a product of maceration in solvents, generally organic solvents, whereas the powder according to the invention is a pure natural product originating from henna, reduced by grinding or other mechanical means, into fine particles.
The composition of the invention comprises henna in powder form, preferably as fine particles.
The henna powder may be screened to obtain particles with upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the screen particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US). Value can be determined with classical method or analyzer known by one skilled in the art. Especially the Malven particle size analyzer, D10, D50 and D90 can be used to determine both size and volume distribution.
According to one particular mode of the invention, the size of the henna powder particles is fine i.e. particles sizes of less than or equal to 500 urn is more particularly intended. Preferentially, the powder consists of fine particles with sizes ranging from 10 to 300 |j,m and more particularly from 50 to 200 |j,m.
Value can be determined with classical method or analyzer known by one skilled in the art. Especially the Malven particle size analyzer, D10, D50 and D90 can be used to determine both size and volume distribution.
The said henna particles preferentially have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the powders.
Preferably, the said henna particles are derived from henna leaves.

The henna plant powder used in the present invention is preferably red henna {Lawsonia inermis, alba).
Red henna consists of leaves of shrubs of the genus Lawsonia from the family of Lythraceae, which is based on the principle of dyeing with the active agent lawsone: 2-hydroxy-l,4-naphthoquinone. Lawsone [83-72-7] (CI Natural Orange 6 ; CI 75420), also known as isojuglone, may be found in henna shrubs (Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia inermis) ("Dyes, Natural", Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, "Henna" Encyclopedia Britannica).
According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises decontaminated henna plant powder.
By "decontaminated" is meant that henna has been cleansed to remove contaminants such as micro-organisms.
The number of microorganisms is on average between 105 and 107 microorganisms per gram of powder or of leaves before decontamination.
Any process known to those skilled in the art may be used with the condition that the number of microbes has been reduced, i.e. by a factor of 102 to 106, that is to say preferably between 99.9 and 99.99999%.
The term "micro-organisms" includes in particular fungi, moulds, spores and bacteria.
Examples of decontamination method are hot air drying, microwave, dry heat, steam sterilization, ethanol flotation and irradiation.
Preferably, when the henna plant powder is contained in the composition, in particular in the form of fine particles, its amount is at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
More particularly, the henna plant powder is present in an amount of from 10% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 80%) by weight, or even more preferably from 3 0% to 70% by weight,

and better still from 3 5 % to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition.
Indigo-producing plant(s)
As indigo-producing plants, mention may be made of numerous species derived from the following genera:
- Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffraticosa,
Indigofera articulata, Indigofera arrecta, Indigofera
gerardiana, Indigofera argenta, Indigofera indica, Indigofera
longiracemosa;
- Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria;
- Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium
(Persicaria tinctoria);
- Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria;
- Calanthe such as Calanthe veratrifolia; and
- Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia. Preferably, the indigo-producing plant is of the genus
Indigofera and more particularly is Indigofera tinctoria.
Use may be made of all or part (in particular the leaves especially for Indigofera tinctoria) of the indigo-producing plant.
The indigo-producing plant powder may be screened to obtain particles with upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the screen particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US).
Indigo-producing plants used in the invention are preferably in the form of powder, and better still of particles.
According to a one embodiment of the invention, the size of the indigo-producing plant powder particles is fine. In particular, a particle size of less than or equal to 500 |j,m is intended. Preferentially, the powder consists of fine particles with sizes ranging from 10 to 300 urn and even more preferably from 50 to 200 |j,m.
It is understood that the said indigo-producing plant particles preferentially have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the powders.

Preferably, when the indigo-producing plant is contained in the composition, in particular in the form of powder, more particularly in the form of particles, its amount is at least 10%> by weight. More preferably it ranges from 10%> to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 20%o to 80%> by weight, or more particularly from 30% to 70% by weight, and better from 3 5% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition.
Fatty substance (s):
The second essential component (ii) of the anhydrous composition according to the invention is one or more fatty substances.
The term "fatty substance" is intended to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less than 0.1%). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The fatty substances may be oils, butters or solid fatty substances other than butters.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty substances comprise one or more oils which are non-silicone oils or silicone oils.
The term "oil" is intended to mean a "fatty substance" as defined previously that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg); the viscosity at 25°C is preferably less than 1200 cps and better still less than 500 cps (defined, for example, from the Newtonian plateau determined using an ARG2 rheometer from TA Instruments equipped with a spindle with cone-

plate geometry 60 mm in diameter and with an angle of 2 degrees over a shear stress range of from 0.1 Pa to 100 Pa).
The term "non-silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil not
containing any silicon atoms (Si) and the term "silicone oil" is
5 intended to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom.
Preferably, the oils are not oxyalkylenated or glycerolated ethers.
Preferably, the oils do not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylene
units or any glycerolated units.
10 More particularly, the non-silicone oils are chosen from C6-C16
alkanes; linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16
carbon atoms; oils of animal origin; oils of plant origin; liquid fatty
alcohols; liquid fatty esters; essential oils; fluoro oils; fatty acid
amides; and mixture thereof.
15 As regards the C6-C16 alkanes, they are linear or branched, and
possibly cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
The linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16
carbon atoms may be chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly,
20 liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene
such as Parleam®.
Among the animal oils, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
As examples of oils of plant origin, mention may be made of
25 jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut
oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed
oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil,
arara oil, coriander oil, almond oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea butter
oil and also rapeseed oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil,
30 pomegranate oil, mango oil, palm oil, cottonseed oil and copra oil.
For the purposes of the invention, fatty alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids have more particularly at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or
10

more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise
5 from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched.
They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic
10 or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
Octyldodecanol is most particularly preferred.
15 The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure
at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.
These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
20 They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one
aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols of the
invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl
alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
25 Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
The term “liquid fatty ester” means an ester derived from a
fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol that is liquid at standard
temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e.
1.013 × 105 Pa).
30 The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or
unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
11

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols,
5 mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl
myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl
stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl
neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1-
10 C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or
tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy
or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
Mention may be made especially of diethyl sebacate,
diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate,
15 di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate,
diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate,
triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl
trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol
diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
20 The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar
esters and diesters of C 6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is
recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-
based compounds which contain a plurality of alcohol functions, with
or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4
25 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides
or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include
sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose,
mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof,
30 especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance
methylglucose.
The sugar and fatty acid esters may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or
12

unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from
5 mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates,
myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates,
caprates or arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, especially,
oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.
10 More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and
especially of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates,
stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or
oleostearates.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under
15 the name Glucate® DO by the company AMERCHOL, which is a
methylglucose dioleate.
Finally, use may also be made of natural or synthetic glycerol esters of mono-, di- or triacids.
Among these, mention may be made of plant oils.
20 As oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be
used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include:
- triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid
fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for
25 instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for
example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed
oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil,
castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm
oil, sweet almond oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, camelina oil,
30 tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid
triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company STÉARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
13

Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and caprylic/capric acid triglycerides are particularly preferred as liquid fatty esters.
Among the essential oils contained in the composition of the
invention, mention may be made of those mentioned in Ullmann's
5 Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Flavors and Fragrances", Karl-
Georg Fahlbusch et al., Published Online: 15 JAN 2003, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a11_141).
Among the fluoro oils, mention may be made of
perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane,
10 sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company
BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane;
perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and
tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060®
by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name
15 Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and
nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-(trifluoromethyl)perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
As fatty acid amides mention may be made of amides of a C6-
20 C30 fatty acid and of a primary or secondary, preferably primary, C 1-
C10 amine, which have the formula R’’-C(O)-N(Ra)-R’’’ with R’’
representing a linear or branched C 6-C30 alkyl or a linear or branched
C6-C30 alkenyl group, comprising one or two unsaturations, which may
be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, or (di)(C 1-
25 C6)(alkyl)amino, and R’’’ representing a linear or branched C 1-C10
alkyl group, Ra representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group as
defined for R’’’. Preferably, R’’ represents a C 14-C20 alkenyl group, Ra
represents a hydrogen atom and R’’’ represents a C 1-C6 alkyl group
optionally substituted with (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino such as
30 oleylamidopropyldimethylamine.
Other examples of oils may be hazelnut oil, mango oil, coffee bean wax, karite butter, soya oil, palm oil or maize germ oil; mineral oils such as paraffin oil, vaseline oil and mineral oils having a boiling point between 300° and 400° C; oils of animal origin such as
14

perhydrosqualene; oils of vegetable origin consisting of less than 40 %
by weight of linoleic acid triglycerides such as sweet almond oil,
avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, groundnut oil, rapeseed
oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, karite butter, palm oil , apricot seed oil
5 and calophyllum oil; synthetic oils such as purcellin oil, butyl
myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate and esters derived from lanolic acid such as isopropyl
10 lanolate, isocetyl lanolate and isoparaffins; acetyl glycerides, the
octanoates and decanoates of alcohols and of polyalcohols such as
those of glycol and of glycerol, the ricinoleates of alcohols and of
polyalcohols such as those of cetyl, fatty acid triglycerides such as
caprylic/capric triglycerides, C10-C18 saturated fatty acid
15 triglycerides, volatile or non-volatile silicone oils and fluorinated and
perfluorinated oils; vegetable oils having more than 40% by weight of linoleic acid triglycerides such as corn germ oil, wheat germ oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, grapeseed oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil fatty acid, passion-flower oil and rye grain oil.
20 The silicone oils may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear
or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity from 5×10-6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C, and preferably 1×10-5 to 1 m2/s.
Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in
25 particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified
polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic
30 Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
15

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name
Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by
5 Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile
Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone®
10 FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, having formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes
with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of
15 octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaer ythritol
(50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1’-
bis(hexa-2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-trimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms
and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-6 m2/s at 25°C.
20 An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the
name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to
this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics
and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - Todd & Byers "Volatile
Silicone fluids for cosmetics".
25 Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes,
polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
30 polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity
16

of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to Standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a
nonlimiting manner, of the following commercial products:
5 - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil®
oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning,
such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s;
10 - the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of
the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having
dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as
the oils in the 48 series from Rhodia.
15 According to a preferred variant of the invention, the oil(s) are
chosen from C6-C16 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of a fatty acid
and/or of a fatty alcohol such as monoester of C1-C26 monoacids and
of C1-C26 monoalcohols , the total number of carbon atoms in the esters
being greater than or equal to 10, and triglycerides of oil of plant
20 origin; liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Better still, the oils are chosen from isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate, caprylic/capric triglycerides and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment, the anhydrous
composition according to the invention comprises one or more oils in
25 an amount ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, more particularly from
20% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight and more preferentially from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
The fatty substance may be one or more butters, which may be
30 identical or different.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “butter" (also known as a "pasty fatty substance”) is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of
17

state, comprising at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty
compound can be less than 25°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty
5 compound measured at 25°C can represent 9% to 97% by weight of the
compound. This liquid fraction at 25°C preferably represents between
15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
Preferably, the butter(s) have an end melting point of less than 60°C.
10 Preferably, the butter(s) have a hardness of less than or equal
to 6 MPa.
Preferably, the butters or pasty fatty substances have, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystal organization, which is visible by X-ray observation.
15 Within the context of the invention, the melting point
corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357 -3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty substance or of a wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example
20 the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA
Instruments.
As regards the measurement of the melting point and the determination of the end melting point, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
25 A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance, preheated to 80°C
and withdrawn with magnetic stirring using a spatula that is also heated, is placed in a hermetic aluminium capsule, or a crucible. Two tests are performed to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
The measurements are performed on the abovementioned
30 calorimeter. The oven is flushed with nitrogen. Cooling is performed
by an RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol: it is first placed at a temperature of 20°C, and then subjected to a first temperature rise passing from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, then is cooled from 80°C to -80°C at a
18

cooling rate of 5°C/minute and finally subjected to a second
temperature rise passing from -80°C to 80°C at a heating rate of
5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation of
the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the
5 crucible containing the sample of butter is measured as a function of
the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
10 The end melting point corresponds to the temperature at which
95% of the sample has melted.
The liquid fraction by weight of the butter at 25°C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 25°C to the heat of fusion of the butter.
15 The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed
by the compound in order to change from the solid state to the liquid state. The butter is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The butter is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
20 The heat of fusion of the butter is equal to the integral of the
entire melting curve obtained using the abovementioned calorimeter, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10°C/minute, according to Standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion of the butter is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to
25 the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
The heat of fusion consumed at 25°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 25°C, composed of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C preferably
30 represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably
from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
19

The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32°C is equal to
the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32°C to the heat of fusion
of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32°C is
calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C.
5 As regards the measurement of the hardness, the sample
preparation and measurement protocols are as follows:
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions as defined previously, or the butter are placed in a mould 75 mm in diameter which is filled to approximately 75% of its height.
10 In order to overcome the thermal history and to control the
crystallization, the mould is placed in a Vötsch VC 0018 programmable oven, where it is first placed at a temperature of 80°C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 5°C/minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 0°C for 60
15 minutes, and then subjected to a temperature rise ranging from 0°C to
20°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute, and then left at the stabilized temperature of 20°C for 180 minutes.
The compression force measurement is taken using a TA/TX2i texturometer from Swantech. The spindle used is chosen according to
20 the texture:
- cylindrical steel spindle 2 mm in diameter for very rigid starting materials;
- cylindrical steel spindle 12 mm in diameter for starting materials which are not very rigid.
25 The measurement comprises three steps:
- a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the
sample, where the spindle moves at a measuring speed of 0.1
mm/second, and penetrates into the composition according to the
invention or the butter to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, and the
30 software notes the maximum force value reached;
- a second step, known as relaxation, where the spindle remains
in this position for one second and the force is noted after 1 second of
relaxation; and finally
20

- a third step, known as withdrawal, where the spindle returns to its original position at a speed of 1 mm/second, and the withdrawal energy of the probe (negative force) is noted.
The hardness value measured during the first step corresponds
5 to the maximum compression force measured in newtons divided by
the area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm2 in contact with
the butter or the composition according to the invention. The hardness
value obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
According to a preferred mode of the invention, the particular
10 butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann's
Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 15/06/2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
15 It may more particularly be mentioned that the ingredient a) is
chosen from shea butter, Karité Nilotica butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipé butter, madhuca butter or Bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter
20 (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara
butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica),
25 apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia
ternifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea
gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond (Prunus
amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter.
30 According to one preferred mode of the invention, the weight
content of C16 fatty acid triglycerides, expressed relative to the total amount of fatty acid triglycerides in the butter(s) according to the invention, is less than 23%.
21

Preferentially, the butter(s) according to the invention are
chosen from murumuru butter, ucuuba butter, shorea butter, illipé
butter, shea butter and cupuacu butter, and even more preferentially
from murumuru butter and ucuuba butter.
5 In one preferred variant of the invention, the weight content of
C16 fatty acid triglycerides, expressed relative to the total amount of fatty acid triglycerides, ranges from 0 to 22%, better still from 0 to 15% and even better still from 2% to 12%.
When one or more butters are present, the anhydrous
10 composition according to the invention comprises one or more but ters
in an amount ranging from 1 % to 90 % by weight, more particularly
from 5% to 70% by weight, and preferentially from 10% to 50% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
According to an embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous
15 composition of the invention comprises one or more oils, as defined
previously, and of one or more butters, as defined previously.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous
composition may comprise one or more oils and one or more butters in
which the amount [oil(s) + butter(s)] ranges particularly from 10% to
20 90% by weight, more particularly from 20% to 80% by weight, and
preferentially from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
Other fatty substances ii) different from the oils and from the
butters as defined previously may be one or more waxes, preferably of
25 plant origin, silicone waxes, silicone resins or silicone gums.
The waxes may be fatty alcohols or fatty esters that are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, non-silicone waxes as defined below.
The solid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the
30 invention are more particularly chosen from linear saturated alcohols
comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30
carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol).
22

As regards the solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty
alcohols, mention may preferably be made of esters of saturated linear
fatty acids and of saturated linear fatty alcohols, such as cetyl
palmitate, stearyl stearate and cetyl stearate.
5 The non-silicone waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba
wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, such as beeswaxes
10 or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); marine waxes, such as that sold
by the company Sophim under the reference M82, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
Examples of silicone waxes, resins or gums are given below.
In the category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made
15 of the waxes sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the
company Goldschmidt, which are polydi(C1-C20)alkylsiloxanes.
The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights
20 of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a
solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
25 Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with
the invention are mixtures such as:
- the mixtures formed from a hydroxy-terminated
polydimethylsiloxane or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic
polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as
30 the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;
- mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone,
such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General
Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone,
having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in
23

the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;
- mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more
particularly of a PDMS gum and of a PDMS oil, such as the product
5 SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a
mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5×10-6 m²/s. This product preferably includes 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance
10 with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the
following units:
R2SiO2/2, R3SiO1/2, RSiO3/2 and SiO4/2,
in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are
15 those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly
methyl.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold
under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names
Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric,
20 which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the resins of the
trimethylsiloxysilicate type, sold in particular as X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by Shin-Etsu.
When the anhydrous compositions comprises fatty substances
25 different from oil(s) and butter(s) as defined previously, their content
ranges from 0.5% to 50% by weight, better still from 1% to 30% by
weight and even better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the
total weight of said composition.
According to a preferred variant of the invention, the fatty
30 substance(s) (ii) are chose from oil(s), and more particularly from C6-
C16 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol; liquid fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
24

Better still, the fatty substance(s) (ii) are chosen from isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate, caprylic/capric triglycerides and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment, the anhydrous
5 composition according to the invention comprises a total amount of
fatty substance(s) (ii) ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, more particularly from 20% to 80% by weight, preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight and more preferentially from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of anhydrous composition.
10
Clay(s)
The third essential ingredient (iii) of the anhydrous
composition according to the present invention is one or more clays.
The term "clay" refers to a naturally occurring material
15 composed primarily of fine grained minerals, which is generally
plastic at appropriate water contents and will harden with dried or fired. Although clay usually contains phyllosilicates, it may contain other materials that impart plasticity and harden when dried or fired. Associated phases in clay may include materials that do not impart
20 plasticity and organic matter. A common definition is that in the
Penguin Dictionary of Science, namely "finely divided rock materials whose component minerals are various silicates, mainly of magnesium or aluminium". Clay comprises kaolinite, illite, vermiculite, smectite, chlorite.
25 Another definition, frequently used by chemists is "a naturally
occurring sediment or sedimentary rock composed of one or more minerals and accessory compounds, the whole usually being rich in hydrated aluminum silicate, iron or magnesium, hydrated alumina, or iron oxide, predominating in particles of colloidal or near -colloidal
30 size, and commonly developing plasticity when sufficiently pulverized
and wetted" (see Kirk-Othmer, Encyclopaedia of Chemical
Technology, Volume 5, page 544, 2nd edition, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., New York, New York 1964). Example of clays are given in the
25

book "Clay mineralogy, S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson.". Clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
Hydrophilic clay includes smectites such as saponites,
hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites, beidellite. Hydrophilic clay
5 includes synthetic hectorites (also called laponites) as the products
sold by the company under the name Laporte Laponite XLG, Laponite RD, Laponite RDS (these products are sodium silicates and magnesium silicates in particular sodium, lithium and magnesium) bentonites as the product sold under the name Bentone® HC Rheox, magnesium
10 silicates and aluminum products such as hydrated sold by Vanderbilt
Company as ultra Veegum® , Veegum® HS, Veegum® DGT, or calcium silicates and particularly the synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro- cel® C.
Fuller's earth consists chiefly of hydrated aluminum silicates
15 that contain metal ions such as magnesium, sodium, and calcium
within their structure. Montmorillonite is the principal clay mine ral in fuller's earth, but other minerals such as kaolinite, attapulgite, and palygorskite among other components.
Lipophilic clay means clay swellable in a lipophilic medium,
20 the clay swells and forms a colloidal dispersion. As lipophilic clays
include modified clays such as the modified magnesium silicate
(Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), hectorites modified with an
ammonium salt fatty acid C10 to C22, as hectorite modified with
ammonium salt distearyldimethylammonium (CTFA name:
25 Disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by
Rheox or Bentone® 38V by ELEMENTIS.
The term salt includes all counterions such as halides, and for example chloride.
The origin of such clay can be natural or synthetic mineral clay
30 such as hectorite, bentonite, and quaternized derivatives thereof, for
example which are obtained by reacting the minerals with a quaternary ammonium compound, such as stearalkonium bentonite, hectorites, quaternized hectorites such as Quaternium-18 hectorite, bentones, and the like.
26

The non-limiting of examples of clay which can be used in the
present invention are Fuller's earth, Pinatubo volcanic ash mud in
Philippines, Aleppo clay from Syria, Pulau tiga volcano mud from
Malasiya, Nha Trang mud from Vietnam, White Kaolinite from Korea,
5 Yellow Loess from Korea, Jeju volcanic clay from Korea, Guanziling
mud form Taiwan, Wudalianchi volcanic mud from China, Black mud of Yuncheng salt lake from China, mineral mud from Tantou village in China, China clay (Kaolin), Maifan stone from China, Beppu onsen Fango from Japan, Kucha from Japan, Tanakura clay from Japan,
10 Cambrian blue clay from Russia, Blue Lagoon mud from Iceland, Saki
lake mud from Ukraine, Karlovy vary moor mud from Czech Republic, Heviz Georgikon moor mud from Hungry, Alpine moor mud from Austria, Bad Wilsnack mud from Germany, Bavarian mineral slat mountain mud from Germany, Freiburg volcanic ash from Germany,
15 Santorini mud from Greece, Mar menor mud from Spian, Ischian
volcanic mud from Italy, Euganean thermal mud from Italy, Yellow clay-lllite from France, French Green Clay - Montmorrillonite, Calistoga mud from USA, Sacred clay and ormalite from USA, Redmond clay from USA, Arctic mineral mud from Canada, Tulum
20 Mayan clay from Mexico, Glacial clay from Canada, Amazonian white
clay from Brazil, El Chillante volcanic thermal mud from Argentina, African healing clay, Australian olive green clay.
Preferably, the clay(s) are selected from hectorites modified with an (C10 to C22 fatty acid)ammonium salt, such as hectorite
25 modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name:
Disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by Rheox or Bentone® 38V by ELEMENTIS.
According to one preferred embodiment, the anhydrous composition according to the invention comprises one or more clays in
30 an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more particularly
from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 2.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
27

Optional components
The anhydrous composition of the invention may further
comprise one or more organic solvents different from the fatty
substances previously described. Among organic solvents, propylene
5 carbonate is preferred.
According to one preferred embodiment, the anhydrous
composition according to the invention comprises propylene
carbonate, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by
weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more
10 preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the anhydrous composition.
Anhydrous compositions of the invention as defined previously
may also contain one or more additional direct dyes other than red
henna or indigo.
15 These direct dyes are chosen, for example, from those
conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which mention may
be made of any commonly used aromatic and/or non-aromatic dye such
as neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acidic
or cationic azo direct dyes, natural direct dyes such as ortho-
20 diphenols, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone and in particular
anthraquinone direct dyes, azine, triarylmethane, indoamine, methine,
styryl, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, phthalocyanine and methine
cyanine direct dyes, and fluorescent dyes.
Preferentially, anhydrous compositions of the invention
25 comprise one or more natural dyes other than red henna and indigo-
producing plant (i) as defined previously. Among the natural direct
dyes, mention may be made of juglone, isatin, curcumin, spinul osin,
apigenidin, orceins, paradiphenols and orthodiphénols or polyphenols,
preferably para- and ortho-diphenols
30 These natural dyes, besides their defined compound form (other
than lawsone), may be added in the form of extracts or of plant parts. The said defined compounds from extracts or from plant parts are preferably in the form of powders, in particular fine powders whose
28

particles have sizes identical to that of the red henna powder as defined previously.
The natural or non-natural direct dye(s), other than the henna
or indigo, when they are present in the anhydrous compositions
5 according to the invention, represent particularly from 0.001% to 10%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
Preferably, the composition of the invention does not contain
10 any synthetic direct dyes, i.e. dyes that do not occur in nature.
Anhydrous compositions as defined previously may also
comprise one or more oxidation bases and/or one or more couplers
conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
15 Mention may be made, among the oxidation bases, of para-
phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.
Mention may in particular be made, among these couplers, of
20 meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols,
naphthalene couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
When they are present, the oxidation base(s) are each generally
contained in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight, of the
total weight of the composition.
25 Preferably, compositions do not contain any oxidation dyes.
Adjuvants:
Compositions of the invention may also contain various
adjuvants conventionally used in hair dye compositions, such as
30 anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or
mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or
zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, mineral or organic
thickeners different from clays, and in particular anionic, cationic,
nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners,
29

antioxidants, penetrants, sequestrants, fragrances, buffers, dispersants,
conditioning agents other than the butters or oils as defined above, for
instance ceramides, film-forming agents, preserving agents, opacifiers
and mineral or organic thickeners.
5 According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the
composition comprises one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants.
Examples of preferred non-ionic surfactants are
polyalkoxylated fatty alcohols, wherein the fatty chain, which is
10 saturated or insaturated, is in the C10-C50 range, preferably in the C12-
C40 range, more preferably in the C16 to C30 range, these compounds having in their structure from 1 to 100, in particular 1 to 50, better from 2 to 30 alkoxy groups. The alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C 2-C6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethylene
15 oxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferred
alkoxides. The alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated. Of these particular non-ionic surfactants, polyethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-10 and oleth-20, are more preferred.
The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for
20 each of them of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, and preferably
between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition of the invention.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to
select this or these optional adjuvant(s) such that the advantageous
25 properties intrinsically associated with the composition that are useful
in the dyeing process in accordance with the invention are not, or are
not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
Preferably, anhydrous compositions according to the invention are in the form of paste. 30
The composition of the invention may be prepared by mixing by hand or with a standard mixer and/or an extruder the components (i) to (iii) as defined previously.
30

Process for dyeing keratin fibers
Another subject-matter of the invention is a process for dyeing
keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, such as hair,
wherein the following steps are successively performed:
5 (a) mixing an anhydrous composition as defined above with
water;
(b) applying the mixture prepared in step (a), which has the
form of a creamy poultice, to the keratin fibres and leaving it on the
said fibres preferably for a minimum time of 30 minutes, preferentially
10 a time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours and better still ranging
from 1 hour to 12 hours;
(c) rinsing the keratin fibres with water until the poultice has
disappeared, preferably without shampooing; and
(d) optionally drying the keratin fibres or letting them to dry
15 naturally, without a hairdryer.
According to an embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition is mixed with water, at a temperature below 40°C, in particular between 10°C and 40°C in step (a).
The mixing weight ratio composition/water ranges preferably
20 from 4 to 0.5, more preferentially from 3 to 1, better still from 2 to
1.5.
In step (b), the application temperature for the composition
ranges from room temperature (15 to 25°C) to 80°C and more
particularly from 15 to 45°C. Thus, after application of the poultice
25 according to the invention, the head of hair may advantageously be
subjected to a heat treatment by heating to a temperature ranging from
30 to 60°C. In practice, this operation may be performed using a
styling hood, a hairdryer, an infrared ray dispenser or other standard
heating appliances.
30 According to a particularly advantageous process, after step
(c), the keratin fibres are:
d’) either mechanically wiped with a towel or absorbent paper,
31

d”) or dried by heat with a heat source (convection, conduction or radiation) by passing over, for example, a stream of a warm gas such as air necessary to evaporate off the solvent(s).
Heat sources that may be mentioned include a hairdryer, hair
5 drying hoods, a hair-straightening iron, an infrared ray dispenser and
other standard heating appliances.
Use may be made, both as means for heating and straightening
the hair, of a heating iron at a temperature ranging from 60°C to
220°C and preferably from 120°C to 200°C.
10 One particular embodiment of the invention is a dyeing process
that is performed at room temperature (25°C).
Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of the
composition according to the invention, for dyeing keratin fibres, in
15 particular human keratin fibres, for example hair.
The compositions and processes for dyeing keratin fibers
according to the invention have the advantage of dyeing keratin fibres,
especially human keratin fibres, with intense, chromatic colorations
that are resistant to washing, perspiration, sebum and light, and that
20 are moreover long-lasting, without impairing the said fibres.
Furthermore, the colorations obtained using the composition or the poultice give homogenous colors from the root to the end of a fibre which corresponds to a little coloration selectivity.
The treated keratin fibres have a very pleasant cosmetic aspect,
25 and their integrity is respected.
Also, the dyeing processes according to the invention make it possible to obtain aesthetic colorations rapidly.
The evaluation of the coloration can be done visually or read
on a spectrocolorimeter (such as Minolta CM2600d, illuminant D65,
30 angle 10°, SCI values) for the L*, a*, b* colorimetric measurements.
In this L*, a*, b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green/red color axis and b* indicates the blue/yellow color axis. The lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the color. The higher the value of a*, the redder the shade; the higher the
32

value of b*, the yellower the shade. The variation in coloring between
the colored locks of natural white hair (NW) which is untreated
(control) and after treatment or coloration are defined by AE*,
corresponding to the colour uptake on keratin fibers, according to the
5 following equation:
V(L -Lo*)2+(a*-ao*)2+(b*-bo*)2
ΔE* =
In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured
after dyeing the natural hair comprising 90% of white hairs and L0*,
a0* and b0* represent the values measured for the untreated natural
10 hair comprising 90% of white hairs.
The greater the value of AE*, the greater the difference in color between the control locks and the dyed locks and the greater colour uptake is.
On the other hand for evaluating the selectivity of the color
15 between the root and tip of the keratin fiber, measurement can be done
on permed or sensibilised white hair (PW) and natural white hair,
wherein the variation in coloring between the colored locks PW and
the colored natural white hair are defined by AE**, corresponding to
the selectivity of the colour, is calculated according to the following
20 equation:

V(L** - Lo**)2 + (a** - ao**)2 + (b** - bo**)
ΔE** = V(L**-L
In this equation, L**, a** and b** represent the values measured after dyeing the natural hair comprising 90% of white hairs and L0**, a0** and b0** represent the values measured after dyeing the
25 permed or sensibilised hair. The lowest AE**, the best homogeneity of
the hair color.
If the light fastness is investigated, AE** is also calculated for the L0**, a0**, b0** and L**, a**, b** measured of the locks before and after exposure to the light, respectively.
30 Chromaticity in the CIE L**, a**, b** colorimetric system is
calculated according to the following equation:
33

The greater the value of C**, the greater the chromaticity is. The example that follows serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Example
The following anhydrous composition can be prepared with the following ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts indicated in the table are expressed in grams of product.

Caprylic/capric triglyceride (PALMESTER 3585) 16,575
Isohexadecane 16,575
Isopropyl myristate 2,2113
Disteardimonium hectorite (BENTONE 38 VCG) 2,73
Propylene carbonate 0,9087
Decontaminated lawsonia inermis leaf powder (treated with gamma radiation 12 kgy by the society microtrol) 58
Oleth-10 1,5
Oleth-20 1,5
Caprylic/capric triglyceride, isohexadecane and hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium are mixed and stirred under an overhead stirrer at 250 rpm. Propylene carbonate is then added drop by drop as the mixture thickens. This slurry is then kept for 15 minutes in a high pressure homogeniser at 4500 rpm in order to reduce the particle size and to obtain homogeneity. This gives stability to the formulation and increases its capacity to load more powder.
The henna powder can then be added to this pre-slurry under stirring. The obtained mixture can then be homogenised in a high pressure homogeniser at 4500 rpm for 15 minutes.
It is expected to obtain a paste in the form of a suspension, which has a texture like that of body butter or body balm with suspended henna particles.

The paste is expected to be stable at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C during 2 months, with no sign of phase separation and discoloration.
The paste can then be mixed with warm water (40-50°C) in weight ratio paste/water of 1:1.5 (qs 100 g.), by means of a brush, till a nice homogenous paste is obtained.
The mixture can then be applied on the hair by coloring sections of hair and forming a bun of the same.
When evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter, it is expected that locks dyed with composition according the invention allowed to obtain a good uptake of the colour which did not change even after one day.

We Claim :
1. Anhydrous composition for dyeing keratin fibres,
comprising:
(i) one or more henna plant powder(s) and/or one or more
indigo-producing plant(s), (ii) one or more and fatty substance(s), and (iii) one or more clay(s).
2. Anhydrous composition according to claim 1, wherein the henna plant powder (i) is chosen from red henna powder of Lawsonia, preferably, the henna is derived from henna leaves.
3. Anhydrous composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the henna plant powder (i) is in the form of fine particles, preferably having sizes of less than or equal to 500 |j,m, more preferentially ranging from 10 to 300 urn and even more particularly from 50 to 200 urn.
4. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the henna plant powder (i) is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight, preferably as fine particles, relative to the total weight of the said composition, more preferably ranging from 10% to 90%) by weight, and even more particularly from 20% to 80%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition.
5. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the indigo-producing plant(s) is(are) derived from the following genera:
- Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffraticosa,
Indigofera articulata, Indigofera arrecta, Indigofera gerardiana,
Indigofera argenta, Indigofera indica, Indigofera longiracemosa;
- Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria;
- Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium (Persicaria tinctoria);
- Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria;
- Calanthe such as Calanthe veratrifolia; and
- Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia;

preferably, the indigo-producing plant(s) is(are) of the genus Indigofera and more particularly is Indigofera tinctoria.
6. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the indigo-producing plant(s) is(are) in the form of fine particles, and preferably present in an amount of at least 10%) by weight, more preferably in an amount ranging from 10%> to 90%) by weight, and even more preferably from 20% to 80%> by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty substance(s) (ii) is(are) selected from oils and more particularly from C6-Ci6 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol; liquid fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
8. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty substance(s) (ii) is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 10%> to 90% by weight, and even more particularly from 20% to 80%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the clay(s) is(are) selected from hectorites modified with an (C10 to C22 fatty acid)ammonium salt.
10. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the clay(s) (iii) is(are) present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and even more particularly from 1%> to 15%o by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising propylene carbonate, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-ionic surfactants.
13. Anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is in the form of a paste.
14. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein the following steps are successively performed:

(a) mixing the anhydrous composition according to any one of the preceding claims, with water, preferably in a ratio composition/water ranging from 4 to 0.5,
(b) applying the mixture prepared in step (a) to the keratin fibres and leaving it on the said fibres preferably for a minimum time of 30 minutes, preferentially a time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours and better still ranging from 1 hour to 12 hours;
(c) rinsing the keratin fibres with water, preferably without shampooing; and
(d) optionally drying the keratin fibres or leaving them to dry naturally, without a hairdryer.