The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions that are useful for personal
skin care, especially for anti-acne skin care.
5
Skin disorders, such as acne, can be irritating to the skin and embarrassing to the
person suffering from the disorder. This is the most common reason for a visit to a
dermatologist. There are many treatments, but no cure for acne. These include antibiotics
(which inhibit the growth of Propionibacterium acnes bacteria which play a role in acne),
10 retinoids such as Roaccutane® or Differin® (which reduce sebaceous gland output of
sebum), and antimicrobials such as benzoyl peroxide, α-hydroxy acids or β-hydroxy acids.
Acne lesions result from the rupture of a sebaceous follicle, followed by inflammation and
pus (a “whitehead”), or by accumulation of plugged material in the sebaceous follicle (a
“blackhead”). It is thus important to keep the skin clean, and provide the lesions with
15 active agents. Unfortunately, cleansing is not always sufficient. Furthermore, the active
agents used for the treatment of acne tend to be harsh and irritating. Furthermore, the
more powerful actives may need to be applied by a dermatologist.
Among the different compositions available for treating acne, one can quote anti20 acne leave-on daily facial care gels, which usually present a low pH, i.e. of around 3.5 to
4.5. Indeed, the maintenance of such a low pH is important for this kind of product, so that
it is effective against acne.
However, formulating a cosmetic product at this pH range is difficult, notably
because the choice of polymers is highly limited, as most of the polymers gain viscosity
25 and display suitable rheological properties at a pH of at least 5.5.
There is thus a need to formulate a composition for caring for the skin, which has an
anti-acne effect, which has a low pH, which is stable, non-sticky, non-noodling; and which
provides additional benefits such as excellent application and spreading, and contributes
30 to the overall acceptable sensorial properties of the final product at a low pH.
The Applicant has now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions
having the desired properties as described above.
Specifically, the Applicant has discovered that it is possible to formulate
35 compositions for caring for and/or making up of keratin materials, which are stable, nonsticky, and which show good consistency and spreading. Said compositions comprise a
2
unique combination of at least two specific polymers, which enable physical viscoelastic
properties in acceptable ranges for good consistency and spreading.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic
5 composition, comprising, in an aqueous phase:
- at least one anti-acne active agent; and
- hydroxyethylcellulose and at least poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic
acid).
10 The composition of the invention is an aqueous gel. It is stable, non-sticky and nonnoodling. Besides, it is quickly absorbed when applied onto skin, and shows a fluidic gel
texture.
By “stable”, it is meant that the composition of the invention does not show any
15 sedimentation (i.e. collection of the fatty globules at the bottom of the container) or
dephasing (i.e. separation of the aqueous and fatty phases) over time, especially during
one month, preferably during two months, under different temperatures (4°C, 37°C and
45°C).
20 By “noodling effect”, it is meant that the formulation or the polymer
(hydroxyethylcellulose and/or 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid polymer)
comes off with normal rubbing. This results in non-acceptance by the consumers.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will
25 emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follows.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of
values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and
"ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is
30 equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as
encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified
ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment
wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e.
35 “consisting of”).
3
Viscosity of the composition of the invention
The composition of the invention shows a viscosity of from 1500 mPa.s to 2300
mPa.s, preferably from 1600 mPa.s to 2200 mPa.s, preferably from 1700 mPa.s to 2100
mPa.s.
5
Viscosity is measured according to the following protocol:
Viscosity is measured at room temperature, with the mobile M3 of Rheometer Lamy
Rheology RM 200, at least 24h after preparation of the composition.
10 Anti-acne agent
The composition comprises at least one anti-acne agent.
The term “anti-acne agent” especially means any active agent that has effects on the
specific flora of greasy skin, for instance Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes).
15
These effects may be bactericidal.
The anti-acne agent may be chosen from :
salicylic acid and its derivatives, such as salts and esters;
20 niacinamide, niacin, and nicotinic acid esters ;
peroxides, including benzoyl peroxide, stabilized hydrogen peroxide and peroxides of
organic acids, such as a lauroyl peroxide;
metal gluconate, such as zinc gluconate, copper gluconate or their mixtures;
asiatic acid,
25 the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl 6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (INCI
name: piroctone olamine), marketed especially under the trademark Octopirox® by
Clariant,
citronellic acid, perillic acid (or 4-isopropenylcyclohex-1-enecarboxylic acid),
glyceryl 2-ethylhexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerine), for example marketed under
30 the trademark Sensiva SC 50® by Schulke & Mayr,
glyceryl caprylate/caprate, for example marketed under the trademark Capmul MCM® by
Abitec;
sodium calcium phosphosilicate, especially marketed under the trademarks Bioactive
Glasspowder® and Actysse Premier BG® by Schott Glass;
35 silver-based particles, for example those marketed under the trademark Metashine ME
2025 PS® by Nippon Sheet Glass;
4
hop cone extract (Humulus lupulus) obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as the
product marketed under the trademark HOP CO2-TO Extract® by Flavex Naturextrakte,
St. John's Wort extract obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as the product
marketed under the trademark St. John's Wort CO2-TO Extract® by Flavex Naturextrakte,
5 the mixture of extracts of roots of Scutellaria baicalensis, of Paeonia
suffruticosa and Glycyrrhiza glabra, such as the product marketed under the trademark
BMB-CF® by Naturogin,
argan tree extract, for instance Argapure LS9710® from Cognis;
bearberry leaf extracts, for instance the product marketed under the trademark Melfade-J
10 by Pentapharm;
10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid such as Acnacidol P® from Vincience, sodium ursolate,
azelaic acid, diiodomethyl p-tolyl sulfone such as Amical Flowable® from Angus,
malachite powder, zinc oxide such as Zincare® from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic
acid such as Arlatone dioic DCA® from Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-
15 hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1-(3′,4′-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4′-chlorophenyl)urea (or
triclocarban), 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide, 3′,4′,5′-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol,
phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and salts
thereof, miconazole and salts thereof, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole,
saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole,
20 sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and salts thereof,
3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic
acid, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerine or
octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Lipacid C8G® from SEPPIC, caprylyl glycol, 10-
hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenylimidazoldioxolane and derivatives thereof
25 described in WO 93/18743, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-
trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts, for instance
cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts, and
mixtures thereof.
30 Preferably, the anti-acne agent is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivatives,
such as salts and esters; niacinamide, niacin, and nicotinic acid esters; metal gluconate,
such as zinc gluconate, copper gluconate; and their mixtures. More preferably, the antiacne agent is chosen from salicylic acid, niacinamide, zinc gluconate and their mixtures.
35 Preferably, the anti-acne agent(s) is present in the composition of the present
invention in an amount ranging from 0,01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0,1% to
5
15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2% to
6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
5 The composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which comprises
hydroxyethylcellulose and at least poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid).
Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% to 99%
by weight, more preferably from 20% to 97% by weight of the total weight of the
composition.
10
The composition of the invention preferably comprises water. Water is preferably
present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 90%
by weight, preferably from 5% to 87% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 85% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15
The aqueous phase may further comprise at least one polyol. The polyols may be
chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon
atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene
glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol
20 and diethylene glycol.
The aqueous phase may further comprise at least one organic solvent miscible with
water different from polyols. Said organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature
25°C) may be chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as
25 ethanol, isopropanol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as
mono-, di- or tri- propylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (C1-
C4) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.
The polyols and/or organic solvents miscible with water may be present in the
30 composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight,
preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase may also comprise sodium hyaluronate. Said ingredient may be
35 beneficial for skin hydration. Preferably, sodium hyaluronate is present in the composition
of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0,01% to 10% by weight, preferably
6
from 0,015% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0,1% to 1% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
5 The composition of the invention comprises at least hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC).
HEC is a cellulose-derived polymer, and is a hydrophilic thickening agent.
HEC according to the invention is generally present in amounts of active material
10 ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even
more preferably from 0.15 to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.2 to 3% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
AMPS® homopolymer (poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid))
15 The composition of the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or noncrosslinked homopolymer comprising 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid units
(AMPS®).
The 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid homopolymer may be crosslinked
20 or non-crosslinked.
They are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable copolymers.
Preferably, the AMPS® homopolymers used in accordance with the invention may
be partially or completely neutralized with an inorganic base (such as sodium hydroxide,
25 potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or
triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids
such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally
neutralized. In the present invention, the term “neutralized” is intended to mean polymers
that have been completely or almost completely neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
30
The AMPS® homopolymers used in the composition of the invention generally have
a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g/mol, preferably
ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000, and even more preferably from 100 000 to 1 500 000
g/mol.
35
7
When the homopolymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen
from compounds with an olefinic polyunsaturation commonly used for crosslinking
polymers obtained by radical polymerization. As crosslinking agents, mention may, for
example, be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether,
5 polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether,
ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane
triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl
cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane,
trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar
10 series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of
phosphoric acid derivatives and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these
compounds.
The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol %, and more
particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol %, relative to the polymer.
15
A preferred polymer of the present invention is poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane
sulfonic acid), which is partially neutralized with ammonia and highly cross-linked, such as
ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, also known under the tradename Hostacerin
AMPS®, and commercially available from the supplier Clariant.
20
Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl
propane sulfonic acid).
The AMPS® homopolymer according to the invention is generally present in
25 amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1
to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and more particularly
from 0.8 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the AMPS® homopolymer according to the invention is present in a
30 weight ratio of active material of (AMPS® homopolymer) : (hydroxyethylcellulose) ranging
from 3 : 1 to 30 : 1, preferably from 4 : 1 to 25 : 1, preferably from 4 : 1 to 7 : 1.
Surfactant
The composition of the invention may comprise at least one surfactant. This
35 surfactant can be anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or cationic. It is generally
introduced in the aqueous phase.
8
It can have at 25°C a HLB balance (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) in terms of
GRIFFIN, preferably greater than or equal to 8. The HLB value as per GRIFFIN is defined
in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference may be made to the
5 document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", volume 22, p. 333-
432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying
functions of surfactant agents, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference.
Preferably, the surfactant according to the invention is chosen from:
10 a) anionic surfactants such as:
polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts and particularly those derived from alkaline salts,
and mixtures thereof;
phosphoric esters and their salts such as “DEA oleth-10 phosphate” (Crodafos N
10N from CRODA) or monopotassium monocetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);
15 sulfosuccinates such as “Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate” and
“Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”;
alkylethersulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
isethionates;
acylglutamates such as “Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate” (AMISOFT HS-21
20 R® marketed by AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF®
marketed by AJINOMOTO) and mixtures thereof;
derivatives of soybeans such as potassium soyate;
citrates, such as Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa);
derivatives of proline, such as Sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic),
25 or the Mixture of Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, Magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic
acid and Palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from Seppic);
lactylates, such as Sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB);
sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the
mixture of Stearoyl sarcosine and Myristoyl sarcosine 75/25 (Crodasin SM from Croda);
30 sulfonates, such as Sodium C14-17 alkyl sec sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from
Clariant);
glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto).
C16-C30 fatty acid salts in particular those derived from amines, such as
triethanolamine stearate and/or amino-2-methyl-2-propane di-ol-1,3 stearate ;
35 b) amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, such as N-acyl-aminoacids such as N-alkylaminoacetates (such as trimethylglycine), disodium cocoamphodiacetate, amine oxides
9
such as stearamine oxide or even silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyol
phosphates such as the one sold under the trade name PECOSIL PS 100® by PHOENIX
CHEMICAL;
c) non-ionic surfactants with a HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, such as:
5 esters and ethers of oses such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and
stearyl alcohols such as Montanov 68 from Seppic;
oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ethers (that may comprise from 1 to 150
oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol;
oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ethers (that may comprise from 1 to 150
10 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (particularly C8-C24 and
preferably C12-C18 alcohols) such as oxyethylene ether of cetearylic alcohol with 30
oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”), oxyethylene ether of stearylic alcohol
with 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Steareth-20”), and oxyethylene ether of the mix
of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth15 7”) marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS,
fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and
polyethylene glycol (able to comprise from 1 to 150 ethyleneglycol patterns) such as PEG50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the trade name MYRJ 52P® by ICI
UNIQUEMA,
20 fatty acid esters (particularly C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylated glycerol ethers (that may include 1 to 150
oxyethylanated and/or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate
sold particularly under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl
stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT S® product sold by
25 GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups like the
TAGAT O® product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30
ethylene oxide groups like the VARIONIC LI 13® product sold by SHEREX,
polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT L®
product sold by GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 groups of
30 ethylene oxide like the TAGAT I® product from GOLDSCHMIDT,
fatty acid esters (particularly C8-C24 acid and preferably C16-C22 acid) and
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (possibly containing 1 to 150
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20 sold under the
name Tween 20® by CRODA, polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60® by
35 CRODA,
10
oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters, for
instance the mixture PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate sold, for example, by the
company Croda under the name Arlacel 165;
polydimethylsiloxanes comprise both oxyethylenated groups and oxypropylene
5 groups, such as dimethicone copolyol with INCI name PEG/PPG-17/18 DIMETHICONE,
such as that sold under the trade name Q2-5220 Resin Modifier® by DOW CORNING,
dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® from FINTEX),
copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide (also called EO/PO
polycondensates), and more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol /
10 polypropylene glycol blocks, such as for example polyethylene glycol / polypropylene
glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates, for example those having the
following chemical structure:
H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH,
in which formula a ranges from 2 to 120, and b ranges from 1 to 100.
15 As a EO/PO polycondensate that can be used, mention can be made of polyethylene
glycol / polypropylene glycol / polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the
trade names SYNPERONIC® such as SYNPERONIC PE/ L44® and SYNPERONIC
PE/F127® by ICI;
d) cationic surfactants such as primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts,
20 optionally polyoxyalkylene, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. As
quaternary ammonium salts, mention can in particular be made of those satisfying the
following general formula:
wherein:
25 - R8 to R11, identical or different, each represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched,
comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, with
the understanding that at least one of the R8 to R11 groups comprise from 8 to 30 carbon
atoms, and preferably from12 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the R8 to R11 aliphatic
groups are chosen from C1-C30 alkyl groups, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6),
30 C1-C30 alkylamide, alkyl(C12-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(C12- C22)acetate, and C1-
C30 hydroxyalkyl; and
11
- X- is an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as the one chosen from halides,
acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C1-C4)sulfates, alkyl(C1-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)arylsulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts, preference is given to
5 tetradecyltrimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium,
dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and more particularly
tetradecyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride,
cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate;
and
10 e) mixtures thereof.
The surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 0,1% to 10% by weight,
preferably from 0,5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0,7% to 5% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
15
Fatty phase
The composition of the invention may comprise a dispersed fatty phase.
The fatty phase may be present in an amount ranging from 0,1% to 10% by weight,
preferably from 0,5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative
20 to the total weight of the composition.
Said fatty phase preferably comprises at least one oil. The oil can be volatile or nonvolatile.
The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at
room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
25 The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on keratin materials at room
temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a
vapour pressure of less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil may also be defined
as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the
amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm2
.
30 These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
Preferably, said oil is chosen from hydrocarbonated, silicone or fluorinated oils.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbonated oil” means an oil formed
essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally O
and N atomes, and free of Si and F heteroatoms. Such oil can contain alcohol, ester,
35 ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
The term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, especially
12
containing Si-O groups.
The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom,
Preferably, the oil is selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based volatile oils and
their mixtures.
5 The oil can be, for example, present in an amount ranging from 0,1% to 10% by
weight, preferably from 0,5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
Mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon-based volatile oils having from
10 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes such
as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane,
isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl,
C8-C16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.
Isododecane or isohexadecane are preferred.
15
As non-volatile oils, mention may be made of:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as linear or branched
hydrocarbons, for instance liquid paraffin or its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly,
polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam sold by the company Nippon
20 Oil Fats, squalane of synthetic or plant origin;
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin based on triglycerides made up of esters of
fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths, it being
possible for the latter to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, in particular
the triglycerides of a fatty acid containing in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for
25 instance heptanoic acid triglycerides, octanoic acid triglycerides and capric/caprylic acid
triglycerides, or else hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil,
palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil,
apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, muscat rose
oil, hazelnut oil, coriander oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, cereal (maize, wheat,
30 barley, rye) germ oil, shea butter oil; esters of fatty acids, in particular having from 4 to 22
carbon atoms, and in particular of octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanolic acid, of oleic
acid, of lauric acid or of stearic acid, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene
glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
- synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a
35 linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2
represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms,
13
for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15
alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate,
isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of
alcohols or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl
5 laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl
palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, isodecyl
neopentanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate,
octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryl
triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic
10 acids and of alcohols containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl
trimellitate;
- C8-C26 higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic
acid or isostearic acid;
- C8-C26 higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl
15 alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;
- synthetic ethers containing at least 7 carbon atoms;
- silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at
ambient temperature, and that are optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicones,
phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl20 diphenyltrisiloxanes, liquid 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, optionally substituted
with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, for instance alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which
are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24
carbon atoms, and optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol
and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids or fatty alcohols or
25 polyoxyalkylenes, such as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl methicone copolyols; liquid
fluorosilicones;
- and mixtures thereof.
Crosslinked starch
30 The composition of the invention may comprise at least one crosslinked starch. Said
crosslinked starch is also called modified starch. Crosslinked starch may be useful for
improving the sensorial and oil-absorbing properties of the composition.
Starch(es) that can be used in this invention are particularly macromolecules in the
35 form of polymers composed of elementary patterns that are anhydroglucose units. The
number of these patterns and their assembly provide a means of distinguishing amylose
14
(linear polymer) and amylopectin (ramified polymer). The relative proportions of amylose
and of amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the plant
origin of the starches.
The starch molecules used in this invention may originate from a plant source such
5 as cereals, tubercles, roots, vegetables and fruits. Thus, the starch(es) may originate from
a plant source chosen from among maize, peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, banana,
barley, wheat, rice, oat, sago, tapioca and sorghum. The starch is preferably derived from
potatoes.
Hydrolysates from starches mentioned above may also be used.
10 Starches are usually in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, with an
elementary particle size varying from 3 to 100 microns.
The starches used in the composition according to the invention are chemically
modified by crosslinking. In particular, these reactions may be performed by cross-linking
15 by functional agents capable of reacting with hydroxyl groups of starch molecules that will
thus be bonded to each other (for example with glyceryl and/or phosphate groups).
In particular, monostarch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)2 type), distarch
phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am type) or even tristarch phosphates (of the Am20 O-PO-(O-Am)2 type) or mixes of them may be obtained by cross linking with
phosphorated compounds.
In particular, X denotes alkaline metals (for example sodium or potassium),
alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonia salts, amine salts like
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, amino-3 propanediol-1,2 salts,
25 ammonium salts derived from basic aminoacids like as lysine, arginine, sarcosine,
ornithine, citrulline.
The phosphorated compounds may for example be sodium tripolyphosphate,
sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxichloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
Distarch phosphates will be in particular used, or compounds rich in distarch
30 phosphate such as the product marketed under references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL
(gelatinized hydroxypropylated manioc distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized
manioc distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated manioc distarch
phosphate) by the AVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA or STRUCTURE XL by the
Akzo Nobel (gelatinized hydroxypropylated maize distarch phosphate).
35 Preferably, the crosslinked starch is a gelatinized hydroxypropylated maize
distarch phosphate.
15
Amphoteric starches can also be used in the invention; these amphoteric starches
contain one or several anionic groups and one or several cationic groups. The anionic and
cationic groups may be related to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to
5 different reactive sites, but they are preferably related to the same reactive site. The
anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, and preferably
carboxylic. Cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary of quaternary amine
type.
10 As amphoteric starches, in particular, potato starches modified by 2-chloroethyl
aminodipropionic acid. Mention can be made in particular of potato starch modified by 2-
chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with soda, marketed under the reference
STRUCTURE SOLANACE by NATIONAL STARCH.
O-carboxymethylated starch designates a starch that has been modified by substitution, in
15 the free hydroxyl groups, of a hydrogen with a carboxymethylated group –CH2COOH. It
can be as such, or in the form of salt, for example an alkali metal salt.
O-carboxymethylated starches can be prepared, for example, by reacting a starch with
monochloroacetic acid, or a monochloroacetic acid alkali salt (for example sodium salt).
Preferably, and O-carboxymethylated starch is used that has the form of an alkali metal
20 salt, and more preferably, in the form of a sodium salt.
Preferably, the O-carboxymethylated starch is prepared using potato starch.
The O-carboxymethylated starch can also be partially or entirely crosslinked. Preferably, it
is partially crosslinked. The crosslinking of the starch can be carried out for example by
heating the starch, or by having it react with crosslinking agents such as phosphates,
25 glycerol. Even more preferably, the O-carboxymethylated starch is a sodium salt of starch,
in particular of potato, O-carboxymethylated and partially crosslinked. Such a product is
for example marketed under the name PRIMOJEL by AVEBE.
The crosslinked starch may be present in the composition in a content ranging
30 from 0,1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0,5% to 5% by weight and preferably from
0,7% to 3% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
Additional ingredients
The composition of the invention may comprise at least one additive, such as UV
35 filters, fragrances, preservatives, vitamins, chelatants, pH regulators and/or fillers.
16
A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additives present in the
compositions according to the invention by means of routine operations, so that the
desired cosmetic properties and stability properties for these compositions are not
affected by the additives.
5 UV filters may be mineral, such as titanium dioxide, or organic.
The chelatant may be tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (sold under the name
Dissolvine GL-47-S by AkzoNobel).
The filler may be organic or mineral. Among the mineral fillers that can be used in
the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica,
10 kaolin or bentone. Among the organic fillers, mention may be made of polyamide powders
(Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyalanine and polyethylene powders,
polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyllysine, tetrafluoroethylene polymer
powders, hollow polymer microspheres, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps
derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably
15 from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium
stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
pH of the composition of the invention
The composition of the invention presents a low pH, i.e. of less than 4.5. Preferably,
20 the pH is between 3 and 4.5, preferably between 3.5 to 4.5.
Methods and use
According to an embodiment, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic
method for treating a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the composition of
25 the present invention to the keratin material.
Preferably the present invention relates to a method for caring for the skin,
comprising the step of applying the composition of the present invention to the skin.
The present invention also relates to the use of the composition of the present
30 invention for treating acne.
The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being
limiting in nature.
35
EXAMPLES
17
Example 1: Preparation of a composition according to the present invention and
comparative compositions
5 Formula A according to the invention, and comparative compositions B to H
(indicated by a star in the following tables) were prepared according to the amounts given
in the table below. The amounts are given in % by weight of the total composition.
The protocol is as follows:
10
1/ Heat about 88% of the WATER, the TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE and
the SALICYLIC ACID until about 70oC under stirring at about 200 RPM.
2/ When the temperature reaches about 70oC, add the SODIUM HYDROXIDE and wait
until total disappearing of the SALICYLIC ACID powder. Maintain that temperature.
15 3/ Add the SODIUM HYALURONATE very slowly and give it 15 minutes to swell.
4/ Add the AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE slowly and give it 20
minutes to swell until the formulation becomes a totally clear gel. Adjust the speed to
about 600 RPM during this step.
5/ Maintain the speed at about 600 RPM, add the HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE and
20 give it 15 minutes to swell.
6/ Add the melted GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE, and give it 10
minutes to disperse while maintaining the temperature.
7/ Start reducing the temperature and when it reaches 60oC, slowly add the
HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE and give it 20 minutes to disperse.
25 8/ In a separate beaker, use a particle disperser to disperse the TITANIUM DIOXIDE into
the DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL. At around 55oC, add the TITANIUM DIOXIDE mixture into
the main vessel.
9/ At around 35oC, add the DIMETHICONE, and reduce the speed of the stirrer to about
400 RPM.
30 10/ In a separate beaker, dissolve the ZINC GLUCONATE in about 6% of the WATER. At
around 35oC, add the mixture to the main vessel.
11/ In a separate beaker, dissolve the NIACINAMIDE in the about 6% of the WATER. In
order to facilitate the dissolution, heating to about 30oC can help. At around 35oC, add the
mixture to the main vessel.
12/ When the temperature reaches 30 35 oC, add the ISODODECANE.
13/ If needed adjust the pH to 4.2 ± 0.3.
18
14/ In a separate beaker dissolve the MENTHOL into the PERFUME. When the
preparation reaches room temperature, add the mixture to the main vessel.
15/ If needed, adjust the water quantity in the main vessel.
FOMULATION
A
(invention) B* C* D* E* F* G* H*
Tetrasodium glutamate
diacetate (Dissolvine
GL-47-S from
AkzoNobel) 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1
Dipropylene Glycol 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
Isododecane 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Dimethicone (5cst) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Sodium hyaluronate 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03
Glyceryl stearate (and)
PEG-100 Stearate
(Arlacel 165 from
Croda) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0,3 - - 0,3 - - 0,3 -
AMMONIUM
POLYACRYLOYLDIMETH
YL TAURATE
(Hostacerin® from
Clariant) 1,5 - 1,5 - 1,5 - - -
Hydroxypropyl methyl
cellulose - - - - 0,3 1,8 - -
Carbomer (Carbopol
Ultrez 30 from Lubrizol) - - - - - - 1,5 1,8
Talc 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
TiO2 (water soluble) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Hydroxypropyl starch
phosphate (Structure
XL) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Salicylic acid 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2
Sodium hydroxide 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2
Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
Zinc gluconate 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5
Menthol classic 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03
Perfume 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1
TOTAL WATER qsp 100 qsp 100
qsp
100 qsp 100
qsp
100
qsp
100
qsp
100 qsp 100
5
For each composition, viscosity, classical stability, stress stability (stress cycle),
sensory tests by a panel and sensory tests by the formulator, were measured according to
the following respective protocols:
19
Protocol of measurement of the viscosity:
Material
Rheometer Lamy Rheology RM 200
5 Mobile M3
Procedure
Viscosity is measured at 3 time points, t=0s, t=30s and t=10 minutes, with the mobile M3.
For freshly formulated products, the viscosity is measured 24h after the formulation of the
product (first experiment).
10 For stability samples, the viscosity is measured after the sample has reached the room
temperature.
Viscosity is indicated in UD in the table below. For information, 40 UD corresponds to
1700 mPa.s; 50 UD corresponds to 2100 mPa.s; and 60 UD corresponds to 2500 mPa.s.
15 Protocol of stability, “Classical stability”:
Material
Four chambers at controlled temperature of 4oC, 25oC, 37oC and 45oC.
Stability glass jars of 50g.
Principle
20 The objective of this test is to simulate the process of ageing of the formula, to see if the
formula is stable over the product shelf-life. The product is kept at four different
temperatures (4oC, 25oC, 37oC and 45oC) and the stability observations are made at two
different time points (1 month and 2 months). Indeed, 2 months at 45oC is equivalent to 3
years on the shelf under real-time conditions.
25 Procedure
About 50g of the test samples in glass jars are kept in duplicates at the respective
temperatures 4oC, 25oC, 37oC and 45oC. At the time points of 1 month and 2 months
respectively, one jar is being analyzed at each temperature and different parameters are
assessed such as appearance, color, perfume, odor, pH and viscosity. If the product is
30 compliant with the target values, the product is considered as stable at the time point. The
observations have to be noted down and if any deviation is not acceptable, the product is
considered as not stable over time.
Protocol of stability, “Stress cycle”:
35 Material
Three chambers at controlled temperature of 4oC, 25oC and 50oC.
20
Stability glass jars of 50g.
Principle
The objective of this test is to subject the test sample to extreme (forced) temperature
conditions and temperature shocks in order to assess possible stability issues these
5 temperature conditions may lead to in the test sample. Following this nine-day protocol
(comprising three cycles of three days each; each cycle consists in subjecting the test
sample(s) for 24 hours each at 50oC, 25oC & 4oC), any sign of instability suggests
probability of potential stability issues. While if the sample is found to be stable without
any noticeable issues, in most likely cases the sample is going to be stable under
10 conventional stability protocol. This protocol makes it possible to get a good idea about
the stability after only 9 days of time.
Procedure
About 50g of the test samples in glass jars are put in triplicate on 50oC stability chamber
for 24 hours. The samples are then transferred to 25
oC chamber for next 24 hrs. Followed
by this they are shifted to 4 15 oC chamber for another 24 hrs. This completes the first cycle,
for a total of three cycles. One jar out of three is then analyzed. Different parameters are
assessed such as appearance, color, perfume, odor, pH and viscosity. If the product is
compliant with the target values, the product is considered as stable after one cycle. The
two remaining samples go through a second cycle (24 hours each at 50oC, 25oC & 4oC)
20 and then one glass jar is removed and the analysis is repeated. If the product is compliant
with the target values, the product is considered as stable after two cycles. Finally, the last
glass jar goes through a third cycle. After analysis, if the product is compliant after 3
cycles, it is considered as stable under stressed conditions and the product is also likely to
be stable under conventional stability protocol.
25 All the observations have to be noted down and if any deviation is not acceptable then the
product is considered as not stable under stressed conditions and will most probably not
be stable under conventional stability protocol as well.
Protocol of measurement of the sensorial effect by a sensory panel with universal profile :
30 Location of the test: INDIA
Objectives: To evaluate and compare the sensory properties of two formulas
Experimental procedure: Sequential monadic evaluation in blind randomized
presentation
Panel: 17 trained women, 18-35 year old
35 Evaluation Zone & Time: Product appearance - during application, immediately post
application and after 2 minutes of application.
21
Protocol of measurement of the sensorial effect by the formulator in the lab :
Location of the test: INDIA
Objectives: To evaluate and compare the sensory properties of two formulas
5 Experimental procedure: Application of 2 known products, one on each front side of the
arm
Evaluator: Experienced formulator
Evaluation Zone & Time: Product appearance - during application, immediately post
application and after 2 minutes of application.
10
FORMULATION
A
(invention) B* C* D* E* F* G* H*

pH 4,03 - 4,35 4,48 4,36 4,17 4,17 4,01
Viscosity (UD) T0 50,5 - 26,6 3 43,7 66,5 46,3 34,6
Viscosity (UD) T30s 50,1 - 26 2,8 42,7 60 42,4 33,8
Viscosity (UD) T10
min 48,73 - 25,21 2,5 42,36 51,36 37,34 33,05
Stability comments
at first sight ok
2
phases
totally
unstabl
e and
liquid
ok
2
phases
totally
unstabl
e and
liquid
ok
Prese
nce of
few
white
particl
es on
surfac
e
White
aggregates of
polymer
crashing out
Dispersion TiO2 ok NO ok NO ok ok ok
Noodling NO - NO - ok Yes Yes, a lot
Texture ok -
Light
and
easy
to
sprea
d light
squea
ky
feel
-
Sticky
and
drying
senso
ry
Very
Sticky
unacc
eptab
le
senso
ry for
a
leave
on
Sticky
like a
face
wash
Sticky
Stress cycle Stable NA Stable NA Stable Unsta
ble NA NA
Classical stability 2mth Stable NA
Some
crysta
ls
obser
ved at
NA NA NA NA NA
22
1mth
at 2-
8°C
As is shown above, a number of cellulose-based polymers were tested. However,
hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose-based formulations (E and F) resulted in highly sticky
formulations and took significantly a longer time to absorb on the skin, which is not
5 appreciated.
HEC-based formulations D and G helped building the viscosity and resulted in nonsticky formulas. However, such HEC formulas mostly resulted in a noodling effect, i.e. the
formulation or the polymer comes off with normal rubbing, thus resulting in non10 acceptance by the consumers. Moreover, HEC alone does not provide the needed gel
strength to hold the titanium dioxide particles suspended in the formulation, as shown by
formula D.
As a conclusion, it appears that only formula A according to the invention is stable,
15 shows a dispersion of TiO2, no noodling, and presents the required texture.
Example 2: Preparation of compositions according to the present invention
Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention were prepared according to the
20 amounts given in the table below, according to the same protocol as the one of example
1. The amounts are given in % by weight of the total composition.
Viscosity was measured according to the same protocol as the one of example 1.
F1 F2 F3 F4
Tetrasodium glutamate
diacetate (Dissolvine GL47-S from AkzoNobel)
0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1
Dipropylene Glycol 4 4 5 5
Isododecane - - 1 1
Dimethicone (5cst) 1 1 1 1
Sodium Hyaluronate 0,03 0,03 0,03 0,03
Glyceryl stearate (and)
PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel
165 from Croda)
1 1 1 1
23
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3
AMMONIUM
POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL
TAURATE
(Hostacerin® from
Clariant)
1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5
Talc - - 1 1
TiO2 (water soluble) 1,5 1 1 1
Hydroxypropyl starch
phosphate (Structure XL) - - 1 1
Salicylic Acid 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2
Niacinamide 2 2 2 2
Zinc gluconate - 0,5 0,5 0,5
Octadecenedioic acid - - 0,5 0,5
Piroctone Olamine - - - 0,5
Menthol Natural - 0,02 - -
Menthol classic - 0,03 0,03
Perfume 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1
Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
VISCOSITY T30s (UD) 38,9 35 62 60
OBSERVATION IN LAB
(upon preparation)
Very little
noodling
No noodling
approved by
sensorial
experts
Other comments Acceptable
consistency
Base for oil
control
ingredients
Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention are stable, show no noodling, and
present the required texture.
5 Example 3: Preparation of comparative compositions
Comparative formulas C1 to C3 were prepared according to the amounts given in
the table below, according to the same protocol as the one of example 1. The amounts
are given in % by weight of the total composition.
10
Viscosity was measured according to the same protocol as the one of example 1.
C1 C2 C3
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate - 0,1 0,1
24
(Dissolvine GL-47-S from
AkzoNobel)
Dipropylene Glycol 3 4 4
Propylene Glycol 3 - -
Coco Betaine 0,75 - -
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0,75 - -
Ethanol 3 - -
UV FILTERS YES NO NO
Dimethicone (5cst) - 1 1
Dimethicone (50cst) 0,5 - -
Sodium Hyaluronate 0,05 0,03 0,03
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100
Stearate (Arlacel 165 from Croda) - 1 1
Hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) 1,5 - -
Xanthan gum - 0,25 -
Sepigel 305 (Seppic)
(POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14
ISOPARAFFIN (and) LAURETH-7 in an
inverse emulsion at 40% in
isoparaffin/water)
1 -
Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose - - 1
Cetearyl Alcohol - 1 -
Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) - 1 -
TiO2 (oil soluble) 0,5 - -
TiO2 (water soluble) 0,5 1 1
Salicylic Acid 1,2 2 1,2
Niacinamide 2 2 2
Zinc gluconate - 0,5 -
Menthol natural - 0,02 -
Perfume 0,1 0,1 0,1
VISCOSITY t30s (UD) 74 3 4.3
OBSERVATION IN LAB
(upon preparation)
Observation of
noodling effect due
to high HEC
concentration
No thickening
No thickening,
long
absorption and
unstable
Xanthan gum could not build the required viscosity as shown for formulation C2, and
also resulted in a sticky feeling on skin.
Similarly, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose-based formulations similarly took a longer time
5 to absorb, did not thicken and do not lead to stable formulations (C3).
As a conclusion, it appears that comparative compositions C1 to C3 show noodling,
or do not show the required texture, because of no thickening of the composition.

CLAIMS

1. Composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in an aqueous phase:
- at least one anti-acne active agent; and
5 - hydroxyethylcellulose and at least poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic
acid).
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the anti-acne agent is chosen from :
salicylic acid and its derivatives, such as salts and esters;
10 niacinamide, niacin, and nicotinic acid esters ;
peroxides, including benzoyl peroxide, stabilized hydrogen peroxide and peroxides of
organic acids, such as a lauroyl peroxide;
metal gluconate, such as zinc gluconate, copper gluconate or their mixtures;
asiatic acid,
15 the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl 6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone ;
citronellic acid, perillic acid,
glyceryl 2-ethylhexyl ether,
glyceryl caprylate/caprate;
sodium calcium phosphosilicate;
20 silver-based particles;
hop cone extract (Humulus lupulus) obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction,
St. John's Wort extract obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction,
the mixture of extracts of roots of Scutellaria baicalensis, of Paeonia
suffruticosa and Glycyrrhiza glabra,
25 argan tree extract;
bearberry leaf extracts;
10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, diiodomethyl p-tolyl sulfone,
malachite powder, zinc oxide, octadecenedioic acid; ellagic acid; 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-
hydroxydiphenyl ether, 1-(3′,4′-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4′-chlorophenyl)urea, 3,4,4′-
30 trichlorocarbanilide, 3′,4′,5′-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol,
phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and salts thereof, miconazole
and salts thereof, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole,
fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole,
terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and salts thereof, 3-
35 hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid,
arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine,
26
octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid,
dichlorophenylimidazoldioxolane, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts, for instance
cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts, and
5 mixtures thereof,
preferably the anti-acne agent is chosen from salicylic acid, niacinamide, zinc gluconate
and their mixtures.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the anti-acne agent is present in the
10 composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0,01% to 20% by weight,
preferably from 0,1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, more
preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the aqueous phase is
15 present in an amount ranging from 10% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 20% to
97% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the aqueous phase
comprises water, and optionally at least one polyol and/or at least one organic solvent
20 miscible with water.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the aqueous phase further
comprises sodium hyaluronate, preferably in an amount ranging from 0,01% to 10% by
weight, preferably from 0,015% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0,1% to 1% by
25 weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein hydroxyethylcellulose is
present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably
from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15 to 5% by weight and more
30 particularly from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the poly(2-acrylamido 2-
methyl propane sulfonic acid) is crosslinked or non-crosslinked; and/or is partially or
completely neutralized with an inorganic base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium
35 hydroxide or aqueous ammonia, or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine,
27
an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine
and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the poly(2-acrylamido 2-
5 methyl propane sulfonic acid) is partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked, such as ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the poly(2-acrylamido 2-
methyl propane sulfonic acid) is present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to
10 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5
to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.8 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the weight ratio of active
15 material of poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid) : (hydroxyethylcellulose)
ranges from 3 : 1 to 30 : 1, preferably from 4 : 1 to 25 : 1, preferably from 4 : 1 to 7 : 1.
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein it further comprises at
least one surfactant and/or a fatty phase and/or at least one crosslinked starch.
20
13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein it has a pH of less than
4.5, preferably, the pH is between 3 and 4.5, preferably between 3.5 to 4.5
14. Non-therapeutic method for treating a keratin material, preferably the skin, comprising
25 the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the keratin
material, preferably the skin.
15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, for use for treating acne.