The present invention relates to a color-changing composition in the form of an aqueous gel in particular useful for care, hygiene and/or makeup of keratin materials.
In particular, a color-changing composition according to the invention may be any type of cosmetic composition such as a foundation, a lip balm, a lip gloss, an eyeliner, a mascara, an eye cream, an undereye care cream, an eye make-up product, a body makeup product, a skin colouring product, a care product such as a care cream, a 'BB' product (Blemish Balm product able to cover imperfections), a tinted and/or an anti-sun product. The color-changing composition according to the invention may be liquid, semi-solid or solid.
A composition of the invention is especially a composition intended to be applied to a keratin material, in particular the skin and more particularly facial skin.
Cosmetic compositions, especially foundations, are commonly used to give the skin an aesthetic colour, but also to hide skin imperfections such as redness and/or marks. In this regard, many formulations have been developed to date.
In this respect, there is a growing interest in cosmetic products that provide a change in color in response to external incentives such for example shear force.
Generally, this purpose is achieved by including in cosmetic composition microencapsulated colorants wherein, upon application on the skin, the composition provides the expected changing color. More particularly, the change of color is provided by the colorant-containing microcapsules, which upon rupture by application of a mechanical force, release the entrapped colorant into the composition, thereby changing its color. A mechanical action such as rubbing spread the topical composition and facilitates its penetration into the skin. The immediate change of color of the composition provides a visual esthetical effect. As those microcapsules have the ability of swelling or softening in contact of an aqueous phase, they are generally advantageously deformable when applied on a keratin material and consequently provide a soft feeling to the user. They are also generally soft enough to rupture upon very slight rubbing or pressing on the skin in order to release their content but, nevertheless, are durable enough to avoid destruction of the coating during manufacture, even during an industrial process, and storage of corresponding change-color composition.
Different types of entrapped colorants and more particularly pigments-containing microcapsules are already available. They mainly differ through the type of entrapping material(s) and/or the type of encapsulation. The instant invention is more particularly concerned with microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s), said microcapsules comprising:
- a core comprising one organic material,
- at least one layered coating surrounding said core, and comprising at least one polymer, at least one colorant, and advantageously at least one lipid-based material.
Such microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s) are particularly interesting since they mask the original color of the encapsulated colorants, increase the stability of

these colorants against degradation, and prevent undesirable release of the encapsulated colorants into the composition during the manufacturing process and prolonged storage.
Compositions comprising microencapsulated colorants similar to those used in the present invention are known in the art under the form of emulsions, in particular from documents WO2014136060 and WO2014136061. Nevertheless, when formulated in aqueous gels compositions, the said microencapsulated colorants fail to provide a soft feeling to the user, and are thus not satisfying the consumer expectation in terms of cosmetic products. Indeed, when formulated into aqueous gel compositions, the microcapsules are providing an uncomfortable sensoriality upon application, providing the user with a "scrubby" feeling, mainly resulting from the fact that the external layer of the microcapsules is not softened enough. This also results in an absence/defect of color release, e.g. a failure of pigments release and spreading from the microcapsules onto the skin, resulting from the failure of microcapsule to break/rupture upon application.
As far as aqueous gels are concerned, it thus remains a need to provide compositions allowing a good color spreadability upon application, while preserving microcapsules stability and a good sensoriality on the skin.
Then it remains a need to have aqueous gels which allow a good color release upon application.
Particularly it remains a need to dispose of aqueous gels wherein the force able to achieve the microcapsule rupture is the minimal conventional force necessary for applying or spreading a cosmetic composition on the skin.
It also remains a need to propose a composition with caring appearance which provides good makeup effects, particularly a good covering effect.
At the same time, there is a need of colorant-containing microcapsules, which capsules retain good shatter resistance and exhibit improved bleed resistance. There is also a need to provide a cosmetic composition wherein the microcapsules are or are not visible inside the bulk of the composition depending on the desired appearance. There is also a need to provide a cosmetic composition which allows the preferred colouration or gradation pattern to be adjusted by varying the method or intensity of application onto the skin or the use of microcapsules containing different colorants.
There is also a need to provide a cosmetic composition stable with a large panel of solvent/ingredient associated.
There is also a need for a cosmetic composition containing pigment-encapsulated microcapsules which do not provoke to the user a discomfort feeling when applied.
There is also a need to provide a cosmetic composition containing pigment-encapsulated microcapsules which disintegrate rapidly indeed immediately when applied, with a liquid feeling on the skin and leading to coloured compositions devoid of any granular aspect. Particularly, the composition may present different shades or color gradations depending on the rubbing strength.

There is also a need to provide pigment-encapsulated microcapsules with a hardness sufficient to be compounded in an industrial process without alteration. Advantageously the hardness of the microcapsules does not significantly decrease during the preparation process.
In particular, the technical problem underlying the present invention that is obtaining aqueous gels comprising microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s), has been solved by using the specific combination of microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s) with salicylic acid or derivatives thereof.
It is known practice to use salicylic acid and derivatives thereof in topical compositions, which are in particular cosmetic or dermatological, for example as a keratolytic agent for treating acne or as an anti-ageing agent. Documents FR-A-2 581 542 and EP-A-378 936 describe such derivatives. Nevertheless, salicylic acid or derivatives thereof have never been reported in combination with microencapsulated colorants such as disclosed above, in aqueous gel compositions.
Surprisingly and advantageously, the compositions according to the invention meet the needs of the prior art. Thus, according to one of its aspects, a subject of the invention is a changing colour
composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials on the form of an aqueous
gel comprising, at least:
a) an aqueous phase;
b) microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s), said microcapsules comprising:

- a core comprising one organic material,
- at least one layered coating surrounding said core, the layered coating comprising at least one polymer, at least one colorant, and advantageously at least one lipid-based material;

c) a salicylic acid compound and/or a derivative thereof;
d) a hydrophilic gelling agent; and
e) an alcohol chosen from a monoalcohol and a polyol.
Preferably, the viscosity of the gel according to the invention is superior or equal to 20UD (Mobile 3) by Rheomat at 25°C. The viscosity is generally measured at 25° with a viscosimeter RHEOMAT RM 180 with Mobile 3 adapted to the viscosity of the product to be tested (mobile is chosen for having a measure between 10 and 150 for UD Unit Deviation), the measure being made after lOmn rotating the mobile inside the composition, with a cisaillement from 200s-l . The UD values may then be converted in Poises (1 Poise= 0.1 Pa.s) with a correspondence table.
More preferably, the composition contains a gelified aqueous phase.

The microcapsules used according to the present invention are breakable upon spreading of the aqueous gel composition over the skin. The rubbing or pressing of the aqueous gel on the skin allows the release of the microcapsule content.
The aqueous gels according to the present invention are notably stable, particularly during 2 months at room temperature and even at 37°C or 45°C and they present optimal cosmetic properties. Indeed, the aqueous gels according to the present invention present an appropriate fluidity: they are easy to handle and further easy to apply and to spread on the skin. Furthermore, the inventors noticed that the aqueous gels according to the invention stay without any color release.
These aqueous gels also present a required texture for a cosmetic use: they are not sticky and soft to the touch.
Generally, the microcapsules used according to the invention have average particle sizes of up to about 800 um in diameter. Preferably the average particle size is less than about 400 urn in diameter of the colorant microcapsules for skin care applications. Preferably, the average particle size will be from 10 urn to 800um, advantageously from 40um to 800um, in particular from 50 urn to 600 um, in particular from 50 urn to 400um in diameter.
According to a preferred embodiment, the average particle size is in the range of about 40 urn to 400 um in diameter, preferably of about 50 urn to 300 um in diameter, in particular from 60um to 250um in diameter and more preferably of about 80 urn to 200 um in diameter.
Preferably the microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s) are multi-layered microcapsules
Preferably the microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s) are multi-layered microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s), said microcapsules comprising:
- an uncoloured core consisting in one organic material, and
- a multi-layered coating surrounding said core and comprising at least one organic inner layer and one organic outer layer of different colour and entrapping respectively at least one colorant.
Preferably, the microcapsules comprise at least two layers preferably at least one organic colored inner layer and one organic outer layer of different colour.
Preferably, the core comprises at least one monosaccharide or its derivatives as said organic material, in particular a monosaccharide-polyol advantageously selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, preferably mannitol.
Advantageously, the layered coating surrounding said core comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer(s) selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and

derivatives, preferably the ones including one type of ose or several type of ose(s), preferably several type of ose(s) including at least D-glucose units, in particular starch and derivatives, cellulose or derivatives, and more preferably starch and derivatives.
Preferably, the microcapsules include at least one lipid based material, preferably with amphiphilic properties such as lecithins and in particular hydrogenated lecithin.
Advantageously the core represents from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 30%o by weight, and in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the microcapsule.
Advantageously, the colorant(s) represent from 20% to 90%, preferably from 30%) to 80%; in particular from 50% to 75% by weight relative to the microcapsule.
Particularly the microcapsules comprises at least:
a inner core made of monosaccharide-polyol, preferably mannitol, at least two layers of different colour,
at least one hydrophilic polymer preferably selected from polysaccharide or derivatives, and more preferably from starch or derivatives,
and advantageously at least one lipid based material, preferably an amphiphilic compound, more preferably a phospholipid, even more preferably phosphoacylglycerol such as hydrogenated lecithin.
Preferably the microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s) are multi-layered microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s), said microcapsules comprising:
- an uncoloured core consisting in one organic material, and
- a multi-layered coating surrounding said core and comprising at least one organic inner layer and one organic outer layer of different colour and entrapping respectively at least one colorant.
According to an embodiment, each layer from the microcapsule contains at least one specific colorant or a specific blend of colorant(s).
According to another embodiment, the outer layer from the microcapsule contains at least one specific colorant or a specific blend of colorant(s).
Particularly the colorants are pigments, preferably selected from the group consisting of metallic oxides.
According to an embodiment, one layer from the microcapsule contains iron oxides and titanium dioxide (TiCh) as colorants.
According to an embodiment, one layer from the microcapsule only contains titanium dioxide (TiCh) as colorant.
The composition may comprise at least from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5%) and 15% by weight and in particular between 1 and 10 % by weight of microcapsules based on weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may further comprises from 0.1 to 70%) by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of additional cosmetic

ingredient(s) selected from volatile and non-volatile silicon or hydrocarbon oils, surfactants, fillers, additional gelifying agents, thickening agents, film forming agents, polymers, preservatives, silicone elastomer, self-tanning agents, additional non-entrapped colorants, cosmetic actives, pH regulators, perfumes, UV filters and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously the microcapsules inside the composition are breakable under pressure at the application on the keratinic materials.
The present invention is also directed to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratinic materials, comprising application on said keratinic materials in particular on the skin of a composition according to the invention.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a product of the invention to keratin materials, especially the skin and more particularly facial skin.
The word "capsule" is also used to mention "microcapsule".
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, the nails and the eyelashes. The skin and the lips, in particular facial skin, are most particularly considered according to the invention.
As emerges from the examples that follow, compositions in accordance with the invention prove to be advantageous in several aspects.
Encapsulation of the colorants prevents undesirable re-agglomeration of pigments during manufacture and prolonged storage of the cosmetic compositions.
As the microcapsules in the compositions of the invention have the ability of swelling or softening in contact of an aqueous phase as defined hereunder, they are advantageously deformable when applied on a keratin material and consequently provide a soft feeling to the user. Furthermore, their low size contributes to not create any discomfort or unfavourable, grainy, feeling when applied.
However, the microcapsules in the compositions of the invention are soft enough to rupture upon very slight rubbing or pressing on the skin in order to release their content but, nevertheless, are durable enough to avoid destruction of the coating during manufacture, even during an industrial process, and storage of corresponding change-color composition.
In addition, the microcapsule of the invention allows the use of regular equipment for the preparation of the compositions of the invention because no coloring of the apparatus occurs during the manufacturing process.
Accordingly, the microcapsules of the present invention are particularly interesting since they mask the original color of the encapsulated colorants, increase the stability of these colorants against degradation, and prevent undesirable release of the encapsulated colorants into the composition of the invention during the manufacturing process and prolonged storage.
At last, compositions of the invention also have the advantage of satisfying a consumer expectation in terms of cosmetic products.

According to another of its aspects, a subject of the present invention is also directed to a cosmetic process comprising at least the steps consisting in applying at least part of a composition according to the invention on the surface of a keratin material, in particular the skin.
According to the invention, the "color changing composition" means a composition wherein the color before application is different from the color after application, this difference being visible to the naked eyes.
In particular, this color changing composition may be linked to a color-difference AE in CIE Lab system 1976 (AE before/after application) value.
The AE is defined by the equation:
AE" = y/^Li - L2y + (a, - a2f- + (h - b2f .
wherein Li,ai,bi are the parameters in the colorimetric space of the 1st color (composition before application) and L2.a2.b2 the ones for the 2nd color (composition after the application and homogenization on the keratinic material).
These values may be measured by spectrophotometer or with a Chrosmasphere (for composition applied on skin).
The color changing composition according to the invention may be characterized as having a AE before/after application superior to 1, in particular superior or equal to 2, preferably superior or equal to 3.
MICROCAPSULES CONTAINING RELEASABLE COLORANT(S)
The term "microcapsule", as used herein, refers to a spherical microcapsule containing at least one layered coating entrapping at least one colorant and surrounding a core chemically different from the coating. Microcapsules are distinct from microspheres, which consist of spherical homogeneous matrix.
According to an embodiment, the "at least one layered coating" is a multi-layered coating preferably an organic multi-layered coating.
The term "multi-layer microcapsule" refers to a microcapsule consisting of a core surrounded by a coating based on one or more inner layer(s) and one outer layer. The one or more inner layer(s) forming the multi-layer coating of the multi-layer microcapsule and the single outer layer of the microcapsule may be formed of the same or different wall-forming organic compound(s).
The microcapsule according to the invention comprises a core also called "inner core" surrounded by a coating based on one or more layer(s). In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsule is a 'multi-layers' microcapsule, comprising at least one inner layer and one outer layer. The one or more inner layer(s) forming the multi-layer coating of the multi¬layer microcapsule and the single outer layer of the microcapsule may be formed of the same or different wall-forming organic compound(s).
In a particular embodiment the inner layer and the outer layer are formed of the same wall forming organic compounds, the core is then surrounded by a one layer coating.

In one embodiment, the outer layer does not comprise any colorant. In another embodiment, the outer layer comprises at least one colorant.
The term "wall-forming organic compound" refers to an organic compound or a combination of two or more different organic compounds as defined herein, which form a component of the layer(s) of the microcapsules. In a preferred embodiment, the 'wall-forming organic compound' comprises at least one polymer.
The term "colorant" refers to organic pigments such as synthetic or natural dyes selected from any of the well known FD&C or D&C dyes, inorganic pigments such as metal oxides, or lakes and any combination (blend) thereof. Accordingly, the colorant useful according to the present invention may be oil-soluble or oil-dispersible or with limited solubility in water.
In preferred embodiments, the colorant is an inorganic pigment, more preferably a metal oxide.
In particular, the average particle size may be from 50 to 1000 Mesh (around 400um to lOum), in particular from 60 to 200 Mesh (around 250um to 75um) as measured by the sieving test method or observed by microscope.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1%> to 25%o by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and in particular between 1 and 10 % by weight of microcapsules relative to the total weight of the said composition.
In particular for a skin care composition according to the invention, the amount of microcapsules will range from 0.1 % to 10%, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
In particular for a make-up composition according to the invention, the amount of microcapsules will range from 0.5% to 25%, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
The microcapsules will be integrated in the cosmetic formula generally at the latest stages of the formulation and after filtering stages if any, to avoid the microcapsules being broken. Preferably, the microcapsules according to the inventions are added and mixed uniformly at temperatures under 50°C. They are mixed gently with a paddle rather than a homogenizer.
The microcapsules may be produced by several methods known to the man skilled in the art within the coating or encapsulation domain, including pelletization, granulation, coating, etc. For example, the microcapsules may be obtained by a method comprising mixture of the compounds (actives, pigments, polymers, solvents) and drying to form capsules as disclosed in WO01/35933 and WO2011/027960, or a method comprising granulation and coating by spray drying as disclosed in FR2841155, or by fluidized bed technology, which has been used in the food and pharmaceutical industry for a long time for coating and encapsulating ingredients. As an example may be cited WO2008/139053, which concerns the preparation of spheroid multilayer capsules comprising a core of sugar and concentric layers of pharmaceutical actives. Fixation of pharmaceutical actives on the core is achieved by impregnation, pulverization or projection, and then the 1st layer is dried before application of a second one.

Fluid bed process is disclosed for example in Teunou etal. (Fluid-Bed Coating, Poncelet, 2005, D. Food Science and Technology (Boca Raton, FL, United States), Volume 146 Issue Encapsulated and Powdered Foods, Pages 197-212). A specific feature of the fluid bed process is that it leads to coated particles wherein the core is well encapsulated, compared to spray drying, which leads to a matrix with the core material randomly dispersed in a polymer.
In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules are obtained by fluid bed process.
According to this embodiment, preferably at least one layer of the microcapsules is obtained by fluid bed process.
In a particular embodiment, the outer layer is obtained by fluid bed process.
In another particular embodiment at least one inner layer is obtained by fluid process.
Most preferably, all layers are obtained by fluid bed process.
A man skilled in the art knows how to adjust air quantity, liquid quantity and temperature allowing to reproduce a capsule according to the invention.
Preferably a fluid bed process implemented according to the invention includes Wiirster process and/or tangential spray process. Such a process allows, contrary to a pelletization process, to prepare spherical capsules with a core surrounded by one or more circumferential layers.
When the whole process for preparing the layers surrounding the core of the microcapsules according to the invention is carried out by fluid bed process, the microcapsule layers are advantageously regular, concentric and present a homogenous thickness.
Different examples of preparation of capsules according to the invention will be given later in this description.
I a) Core
The core is made of at least an organic material. The size of said core preferably ranges from 500 nm to 150um in diameter.
Preferably the core is in a solid and/or crystal form at room temperature.
In a particular embodiment, the organic material is selected from organic materials having high water dissolvability. Preferably, the core is water-soluble or water-dispersible.
In a particular embodiment, the core is uncoloured, i.e. it does not contain colorant material.
In a particular embodiment, the core is based on only one compound. This compound is organic and more preferably is a natural compound.
According to a preferred embodiment, the core is sugar-alcohol, preferably a monosaccharide-polyol advantageously selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol.
In a particular embodiment, the core is made of mannitol and more preferably exclusively made of mannitol.

According to an alternative embodiment, the core contains at least mannitol and at least one additional ingredient being preferably a polymer selected from hydrophilic polymers. In particular, such a core may comprise mannitol and hydrophilic polymers chosen among cellulose polymers, starch polymers and their mixture, preferably their mixture.
In a preferred embodiment, the cellulose polymer is a carboxymethylcellulose and the starch polymer is a non-modified natural starch, for example corn starch.
The core may be constituted by a seed (or crystal) of one of the previous materials.
The core is preferably contained in an amount of from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably 4 to 40% by weight, in particular 5 to 30% by weight, and in particular from 10 to 20%) by weight with respect to the total weight of the micro capsule.
The mannitol is preferably contained in an amount of from 2% to 100% by weight, preferably 5 to 100%> by weight, and in particular 100%) by weight with respect to the total weight of the core.
The mannitol is preferably contained in an amount of from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably 4% to 40% by weight, in particular 5% to 30% by weight, and in particular from 10% to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the microcapsule.
I b) External Laver(s) or coating
As disclosed previously, the core is advantageously surrounded with a coating, or external layer(s) preferably comprising at least one inner layer and one outer layer. In this latter case, these layers preferably extend concentrically in respect with the core.
The layer(s) is/are preferably organic, i.e. contain(s) at least one organic compound as wall-forming material. Preferably, the inner and/or outer layer(s) include(s) at least one polymer, and in particular a hydrophilic polymer.
Polymer(s)
Preferably, the microcapsule according to the invention, and in particular the external layer(s) comprise(s) hydrophilic polymers selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and derivatives, acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts and esters thereof, and their mixture.
In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsule according to the invention, and in particular the external layer(s) comprise(s) hydrophilic polymers selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and derivatives, and in particular starch polymers.
The said polymer(s) is (are) advantageously selected from (poly)(alkyl)(meth)acrylic acid and derivatives, notably (poly)(alkyl)(meth)acrylate and derivatives, preferably from alkylacrylic /alkylmethacrylic acid copolymers and their derivatives, and most preferably is a copolymer of ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and low content of methacrylic acid ester with quaternary ammonium groups provided under the tradename of EUDRAGIT RSPO from Evonik Degussa.

Said polysaccharides and derivatives are preferably selected from chitosan polymers, chitin polymers, cellulose polymers, starch polymers, galactomannans, alginates, carrageenans, mucopolysaccharides, and their derivatives, and the mixture thereof.
In a preferred embodiment, the external layer(s) is/are devoid of microcrystalline cellulose.
According to one particularly preferred embodiment, said polysaccharides and their derivatives are preferably selected from the ones including one type of ose or several type of ose(s), preferably several types of oses, in particular at least D-Glucose unit(s) as ose(s), preferably starch polymers, cellulose polymers, and derivatives, and the mixture thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the microcapsule contains at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of starch and its derivatives, in particular corn starch, cellulose and its derivatives, homo- and/or co-polymer of methacrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid ester or co-polymer of (alkyl)acrylic acid and/or (alkyl)methacrylic acid and their derivatives, preferably their salts and their ester, and in particular the capsule contains polymethyl methacrylate.
According to a preferred embodiment, the microcapsule contains at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of starch and its derivatives, in particular corn starch.
Starch usable according to the present invention is usually issued from vegetable raw materials, such as rice, soybeans, potatoes, or corn. Starch can be unmodified or (by analogy with cellulose) modified starch. In a preferred embodiment, the starch is unmodified.
Preferred homo- and /or co-polymer of methacrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid ester are those wherein the copolymer of methyl methacrylate and ethyl acrylate has a molecular weight from 750 to 850 kDa.
Cellulose derivatives include, for example, alkali celluloses carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC), cellulose esters and ethers, and aminocelluloses. In a particular embodiment, the cellulose is a carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC).
According to a preferred embodiment, the capsule contains at least starch derivative, in particular corn starch, polymethyl methacrylate, co-polymer of (alkyl)acrylic acid and/or (alkyl)methacrylic acid and their derivatives preferably their salts and their ester, and/or cellulose derivative.
Preferably, the microcapsule contains polymer(s) which are not cross-linked.

The polymer(s) may be in one or several layer(s).
In another embodiment, the polymer(s) may be in the core.
The microcapsule may contain polymer(s) in the core and/or in the layer(s).
In a particular embodiment, the polymer(s) is (are) in the core and in the layer(s).
In an embodiment, the core contains at least starch and/or cellulose derivative as polymer(s). When the starch is contained within the core, it represents the main ingredient of such a core, i.e. the weight amount of starch is greater than the respective amount of other compounds of the core.
The polymer may represent from 0.5 to 20% by weight of the microcapsule, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight of the microcapsule.
The different layers forming the coating may be based on identical or different polymers. Advantageously, they will be formed from the same polymer.
In contrast, the layers will be advantageously differently coloured.
This different colour may be obtained through the use of different colorants but also the use of different concentrations in at least one colorant when the colorant will be the same for two layers.
In a particular embodiment, the outer layer contains at least one colorant.
In another embodiment, the outer layer does not contain any colorant.
Colorant(s)
As previously stated, "colorant" includes any organic or inorganic pigment or colorant approved for use in cosmetics by CTFA and the FDA used in cosmetic formulations.
Thus the term "colorant" refers to organic pigments such as synthetic or natural dyes selected from any of the well known FD&C or D&C dyes, to inorganic pigments such as metal oxides, or lakes such as the ones based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum and any combination (blend) thereof. Such colorants are detailed here-after.
In a particular embodiment, the colorant may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
In another embodiment, the colorant useful according to the present invention may be oil-soluble or oil-dispersible or with limited solubility in water.
In preferred embodiments, the colorant is an inorganic pigment, more preferably a metal oxide.

Advantageously, the colorants of the multi-layer microcapsules are primary metal oxides selected from iron oxides, titanium dioxide, aluminum oxide, zirconium oxides, cobalt oxides, cerium oxides, nickel oxides, tin oxide or zinc oxide, or composite oxides, more preferably an iron oxide selected from red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide or black iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.
The layer(s) may also contain lakes corresponding to an organic colorant secured to a substrate. Such (a) lake(s) is (are) advantageously chosen among the here-below material, and their mixture(s) :
carmin of cochineal ;
organic pigments of azoic, anthraquinonic, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluoran colorants; Among the organic pigments may be cited those known under the following trademark references : D&C Blue n° 4, D&C Brown n° 1, D&C Green n° 5, D&C Green n° 6, D&C Orange n° 4, D&C Orange n° 5, D&C Orange n°10, D&C Orange n° 11, D&C Red n° 6, D&C Red n° 7, D&C Red n° 17, D&C Red n°21, D&C Red n° 22, D&C Red n° 27, D&C Red n° 28, D&C Red n° 30, D&C Red n°31, D&C Red n° 33, D&C Red n° 34, D&C Red n° 36, D&C Violet n° 2, D&C Yellow n° 7, D&C Yellow n° 8, D&C Yellow n° 10, D&C Yellow n° 11, FD&C Blue n° 1, FD&C Green n° 3, FD&C Red n° 40, FD&C Yellow n° 5, FD&C Yellow n° 6 ;
the water-insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, baryum, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, of acid colorants such as azoic, anthraquinonic, indigoids, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluoran colorants, these colorants may include at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.
The organic lakes may also be protected by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate.
Among the organic lakes, we may in particular cite those known under the following names : D&C Red n° 2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 6 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red n° 6 Sodium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 7 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 9 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red n° 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red n° 19 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 19 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 21 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 22 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 27 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 27 Aluminum/Titanium/Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 27 Barium lake, D&C Red n° 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n° 28 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 28 Sodium lake D&C Red n° 30 lake, D&C Red n° 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n° 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red n° 36 lake, D&C Red n° 40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue n° 1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green n° 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n° 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n° 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n° 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange n° 10 Aluminum lake,

D&C Orange n° 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow n° 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow n° 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n° 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow n° 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n° 10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue n° 1 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n° 4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n° 40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n° 5 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n° 6 Aluminum lake.
The chemistry material corresponding to each of these organic colorants previously cited are mentioned in the book called « International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionnary and Handbook », Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by « The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association », of which the content is hereby incorporated by reference in the present specification.
According to a preferred embodiment, the lake(s) is/are selected from carmin of cochineal and the water-insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, of acid colorants such as azoic, anthraquinonic, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluoran colorants, being given that these colorants may include at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group, and their mixture.
According to a preferred embodiment, the lake(s) is/are selected from carmin of cochineal and the water-insoluble salts of sodium, calcium, aluminum, and their mixture.
As lake incorporating carmine we may cite the commercial references : CARMIN COVALAC W 3508, CLOISONNE RED 424C et CHROMA-LITE MAGENTA CL4505.
The water-insoluble aluminum salts are preferably selected from FDC Yellow N°5 aluminum lake, le FDC Blue N°l aluminum lake, le FDC Red N°40 aluminum lake, le FDC Red N°30 aluminum lake, le FDC Green N°5 aluminum lake, and their mixtures. As compound incorporating such inorganic lake may notably be cited the commercial references : INTENZA FIREFLY C91-1211, INTENZA AZURE ALLURE C91-1251, INTENZA THINK PINK C91-1236
The water-insoluble calcium salts are preferably selected from Red N°7 calcium lake. As compound incorporating such inorganic lake may notably be cited the commercial references: INTENZA MAGENTITUDE C91-1234, INTENZA HAUTE PINK C91-1232, INTENZA RAZZLED ROSE C91-1231, INTENZA AMETHYST FORCE C91-7231, INTENZA PLUSH PLUM C91-7441, INTENZA ELECTRIC CORAL C91-1233, FLORASOMES-JOJOBA-SMS-10% CELLINI RED-NATURAL and their mixture.
The water-insoluble sodium salts are preferably selected from Red N°6 sodium lake and Red N°28 sodium lake, and their mixture. E As compound incorporating such inorganic lake may notably be cited the commercial references: INTENZA MANGO TANGO C91-1221 and INTENZA NITRO PINK C91-123 5.
In preferred embodiments, the colorant is an inorganic colorant. In a preferred embodiment, the colorant is a metallic oxide. Such metallic oxide is preferably selected from iron oxides, titanium oxides, and mixtures thereof.

The color-changing compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of two or more colorants, either encapsulated individually in microcapsules and/or one or more blends of colorants encapsulated within the multi-layer microcapsules.
In accordance with this specific embodiment, each layer of the microcapsule may contain at least one specific colorant or a specific blend of colorant(s).
In accordance with this specific embodiment, the color-changing composition of the invention comprises two or more microcapsules of the invention having different colors.
A person skilled in the art knows how to choose colorants and combinations of colorants to produce a desired color effect or color change.
As stated previously, the microcapsules of the invention contain preferably at least titanium dioxide and/or iron oxides in their coating, preferably at least titanium dioxide.
In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules of the invention contain preferably at least titanium dioxide and iron oxides in their coating.
According to a specific embodiment, the outer layer of said microcapsules contains titanium dioxide and more preferably as only colorant.
According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention is non-colored, "non-colored" or "uncolored" composition meaning a transparent or white composition.
According to a preferred embodiment the composition according to the present invention, comprises uncoloured microcapsules, that is the outer layer being white or transparent, and when the outer layer is transparent, the visible inner layer is white. For the purposes of the invention, the term "transparent composition" means a composition which transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm without scattering it, i.e. a composition in which the scattering angle of the light is less than 5° and is better still about 0°.
The transparent composition may transmit at least 50%, especially at least 60% and especially at least 70% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm.
The transmission measurement is made with a Cary 300 Scan UV-visible spectrophotometer from the company Varian, according to the following protocol:
- the composition is poured into a square-sided spectrophotometer cuvette with a side length of 10 mm;
- the sample of the composition is then maintained in a thermostatically-regulated chamber at 20°C for 24 hours;
- the light transmitted through the sample of the composition is then measured on the spectrophotometer by scanning wavelengths ranging from 700 nm to 800 nm, the measurement being made in transmission mode;
- the percentage of light transmitted through the sample of the composition at a wavelength of 750 nm is then determined.
The transparent compositions, when they are placed 0.01 m in front of a black line 2 mm thick in diameter drawn on a sheet of white paper, allow this line to be seen; in

contrast, an opaque composition, i.e. a non-transparent composition, does not allow the line to be seen.
According to a specific embodiment, the outer layer of said microcapsules contains organic pigments or iron oxides.
The colorants are present in amounts ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80%> by weight, more preferably from 50% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the microcapsule.
In a particular embodiment, the microcapsules contain metallic oxides selected from iron oxides, titanium oxides, and mixtures thereof, present in an amount ranging from 20%) to 90%) by weight, preferably from 30% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 85%) by weight relative to the total weight of the microcapsule.
In particular the titanium oxide may be present from 28% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the microcapsule.
In a particular embodiment, the microcapsule according to the invention comprises titanium dioxide in an amount from 50% to 80%, in particular from 55% to 70%, and in particular from 55% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the microcapsule.
In particular the iron oxides may be present from 5% to 75% by weight, preferably 8% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the microcapsule. In a particular embodiment, the iron oxides are present in an amount higher than 15% by weight, preferably higher than 30% by weight, and in particular from 40% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the microcapsule.
In a preferred embodiment, in at least one layer, and preferably in every layer, the colorants are the main ingredients, i.e. represent at least 40% by weight of the layer(s), preferably at least 75% by weight of the layer(s), more preferably at least 95% by weight of the layer(s).
In a preferred embodiment the mean thickness of the titanium dioxide layer ranges from 5um to 150um.
Lipid-based material
The inner and/or outer layer(s) may also include advantageously at least one lipid-based material.
According to a particular embodiment of this invention, such a lipid-based material may have amphiphilic properties, that is to say having an apolar part and a polar part.
Such lipid-based material can include at least one or several C12-C22 fatty acid chain(s) such as those selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, etc., and mixtures thereof. Preferably these fatty acids chains are hydrogenated. Eventually, these fatty acid chains may be the apolar part of a lipid-based material.

Such lipid-based material is preferably selected from phospholipids. These phospholipids are preferably selected from phosphoacylglycerol, more preferably selected from lecithins, and are in particular hydrogenated lecithin.
The lipid based material may represent from 0.05 to 5% by weight of the microcapsule, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight of microcapsule.
By combining three or more compounds (ex: sugar alcohols, polymers, lipid-based material) in the microcapsule of different hardness and/or water solubility, it is possible to adjust the time required for colorant-encapsulated microcapsules to break down on the skin so that, by varying the method or intensity of application onto the skin, it is possible to adjust the preferred colouration or gradation pattern.
Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the multi-layer coating contains at least starch as polymer and at least one lipid-based material, which is preferably lecithin.
According to an advantageous embodiment the microcapsules according to the invention include at least one monosaccharide or its derivative and at least one polysaccharide or its derivatives.
According to a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules include a core comprising a monosaccharide derivative and a coating comprising a polysaccharide (or its derivative) including one type of ose or several type of ose(s), preferably several types of oses.
According to a more preferably embodiment, the microcapsules include a core comprising a monosaccharide polyol, preferably selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, and a coating comprising a polysaccharide (or its derivative) including as ose(s) at least one or more D-Glucose unit(s).
According to a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules include three or more colorants in different layers.
According to a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules additionally include a lipid-based material chosen from phospholipids, advantageously selected from phosphoacylglycerol and in particular from lecithins.
In a particular embodiment, the microcapsule contains mannitol, starch polymer and a lipid-based material.
Referring to figure 1, according to a preferred embodiment, the present invention advantageously provides a color-changing microcapsule having a size ranging from 10 um to 800 um, preferably from 50 um to 600um and more preferably from 60um to 250um in diameter of the microcapsule, comprising :
i) a core (A), preferably having a size ranging from 500 nm to 150 um in diameter, which preferably does not contain any colorant, and comprising at least one organic core preferably selected from at least one sugar alcohol preferably a

monosaccharide-polyol advantageously selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, and mixture thereof;
ii) one first layer (B) surrounding said core comprising:
- at least one colorant, preferably iron oxide(s), and
- a binder selected from at least one polymer, at least one lipid-based material,
and their mixture, preferably their mixture ;
iii) one second layer (C) surrounding said first layer (B), preferably having a thickness of 5 to500um, comprising:
- titanium dioxide particles, and
- a binder selected from at least one polymer, at least one lipid-based material,
and their mixture, preferably their mixture ;
iv) optionally one third layer (D) surrounding said second layer (C) comprising:
- at least one colorant, and
- a binder selected from at least one polymer, at least one lipid-based material, and their mixture, preferably their mixture ;
v) optionally one fourth layer (E) surrounding said third layer (D), if any, or surrounding said second layer (C) comprising
- at least one wall-forming polymer preferably selected from polysaccharides
such as cellulose derivatives, in particular cellulose ether and cellulose ester, from
(poly)(alkyl)(meth)acrylic acid and derivatives, notably (poly)(alkyl)(meth)acrylate and
derivatives, and preferably from alkylacrylic /alkylmethacrylic acid copolymers and their
derivatives.
In a preferred embodiment, the polymer is a hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of starch and its derivatives, in particular corn starch.
As examples of commercially available microcapsules to be used in the composition of the invention, we may refer to the following microcapsules produced by Korea Particle Technology KPT under the commercial names :
- Magic50-BW0105, Magic50-BW0105-00, Magic50-BW0105-01, Magic50-
BW0105- 03, Magic50-BP905, Magic30-BW0105 from KPT: ash gray
spherical microcapsule containing mannitol, iron oxide red, iron oxide yellow,
iron oxide black, hydrogenated lecithin, titanium dioxide, zea mays (corn)
starch, having 60-200 Mesh particle size.
The microcapsules suitable for the present invention are stable into the compositions according to the present invention, preferably at high temperatures, for instance greater than or equal to 40°C, for example for one month, better two months and still better three months in an oven at 45°C or for 15 days in an oven at 60°C.
In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules according to the present invention present an appropriate softening kinetics, allowing to provide not only aesthetic microcapsules but also overall aesthetic compositions.

Particularly, the composition may lead to different shades or color gradations depending on the intensity of the rubbing. The compositions may advantageously present a high chromaticity C* as measured in the in CIE Lab system 1976.
SALICYLIC ACID COMPOUND AND DERIVATIVES
The composition of the invention comprises a salicylic acid compound, advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of formula (I) below:

in which:
- the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R' is a hydroxyl group;
- and also salts thereof derived from an inorganic or organic base.
Preferentially, the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- and also salts thereof obtained by salification with an inorganic or organic base.
The compounds that are more particularly preferred are those in which the radical R is a C3-Cn alkyl group.

Among the compounds of formula (I) that are particularly preferred, mention may be made
of:
5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-
dodecanoyl-salicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof.
The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
The salts of the compounds of formula (I) may be obtained by salification with an inorganic or organic base. By way of example of an inorganic base, mention may be made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or aqueous ammonia.
Among the organic bases, mention may be made of amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for instance those described in patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous.
The compounds of formula (I) that may be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6 159 479 and US 5 558 871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4 767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267 407, US 5 667 789, US 5 580 549 and EP-A-570 230.
The salicylic acid compound as previously described may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.15% to 5% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.20% to 3% by weight, and most preferentially ranging from 0.25% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
HYDROPHILIC GELLING AGENT
For obtaining the composition according to the invention on the form of an aqueous gel, use is made of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in an aqueous liquid carrier. The said hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount sufficient to provide the composition the desired viscosity, which is obviously a function of the envisaged use.
Preferably, the viscosity of the gel according to the invention is superior or equal to 20UD (Mobile 3) by Rheomat at 25°C. The viscosity is generally measured at 25° with a viscosimeter RHEOMAT RM 180 with Mobile 3 adapted to the viscosity of the product to be tested (mobile is chosen for having a measure between 10 and 150 for UD Unit Deviation), the measure being made after lOmn rotating the mobile inside the composition, with a cisaillement from 200s-l . The UD values may then be converted in Poises (1 Poise= 0.1 Pa.s) with a correspondence table.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is thus, in this respect, present in the aqueous phase of the composition. The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.001% to 20%, from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, and better still from 1% to 2% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin and synthetic polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
I. Polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin
The polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention may be natural or of natural origin. For the purposes of the invention, the term "of natural origin" is intended to denote polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.
These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.
More specifically, these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.
In general, polysaccharides may be divided into several categories.
Thus, the polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose. Similarly, they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch. More particularly, the polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether or not they are starchy.
LA. Starchy polysaccharides
As representatives of this category, mention may be made most particularly of native starches, modified starches and particulate starches.
Native starches
The starches that may be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary moieties which are anhydroglucose units (dextrose), linked via a(l,4) bonds of chemical formula (CeHioOsV The number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose,

a molecule formed from about 600 to 1,000 linearly linked glucose molecules, and amylopectin, a polymer branched approximately every 25 glucose residues (a(l,6) bond). The total chain may include between 10 000 and 100 000 glucose residues. Starch is described in particular in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd edition, volume 21, pages 492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983.
The relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and their degree of polymerization, vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches. The botanical origin of the starch molecules used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
The native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C*Amilogel™, Cargill Gel™, C* Gel™, Cargill Gum™, DryGel™ and C*Pharm Gel™ by the company Cargill, under the name Corn Starch by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.
Modified starches
The modified starches used in the composition of the invention may be modified via one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, degradation (acid hydrolysis, oxidation, dextrinization), substitution (esterification, etherification), crosslinking (esterification), bleaching.
According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches containing one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type. The amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from the compounds described in patents US 5 455 340 and US 4 017 460.
The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, especially such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydroly sates of the starches mentioned above.
The modified starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C*Tex-Instant (pregelatinized adipate), C*StabiTex-Instant (pregelatinized phosphate), C*PolarTex-Instant (pregelatinized hydroxypropyl), C*Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C*size (oxidation), C*BatterCrisp (oxidation), C*DrySet (dextrinization), C*TexTM (acetyl distarch adipate), C*PolarTexTM (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), C* StabiTexTM (distarch phosphate, acetyl distarch phosphate) by the company Cargill, by distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

Particulate starches
Particulate starches that may be mentioned in particular include:
- starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and especially with sodium polyacrylate, for instance those sold under the names Sanfresh ST100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch),
- hydrolyzed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and especially acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, for instance those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200 and D-223 by the company Grain Processing (INCI name: Starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer);
- polymers based on starch, gum and cellulose derivative, such as the product containing starch and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac.
Mention may be made also of C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starches, also referred to hereinbelow as carboxyalkyl starch, obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of starch, especially by reaction of starch and of sodium monochloroacetate in alkaline medium. The carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used in the form of salts and especially of salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as Na, K, Li, NH4, or salts of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine. The carboxyalkyl starches for use in the invention may be selected from potato carboxyalkyl starches, such as sodium salts of carboxyalkyl starch, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl starch, sold especially under the name Primojel® by the company DMV International or Glycolys® and Glycolys® LV by the company Roquette.
LB. Non-starchy polysaccharides
According to one embodiment variant, the hydrophilic gelling agent is non-starchy.
In general, the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins,

arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.
These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications. The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
In general, the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention are chosen from those described especially in Kirk-Othmer' s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E.A. MacGregor and C.T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, in the book by Robert L. Davidson entitled Handbook of Water-Soluble Gums and Resins published by McGraw Hill Book Company (1980) and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc.
More precisely, these polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, from algae or from higher plants.
Polysaccharides produced by microorganisms Xanthan
Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced at the industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.
Pullulan
Pullulan is a polysaccharide consisting of maltotriose units, known under the name a(l,4)-a(l,6)-glucan. Pullulan is produced, for example, under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the group Hayashibara in Japan.

I/We Claim:
1. Changing colour composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials on the form of an aqueous gel comprising, at least:
a) an aqueous phase;
b) microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s), said microcapsules comprising:

- a core comprising one organic material,
- at least one layered coating surrounding said core, the layered coating comprising at least one polymer, at least one colorant, and advantageously at least one lipid-based material;

c) a salicylic acid compound and/or a derivative thereof;
d) a hydrophilic gelling agent; and
e) an alcohol chosen from a monoalcohol and a polyol.
2. Changing colour cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim,
wherein said aqueous phase is present in an amount of at least 75% by weight, preferably at
least 80%o by weight, more preferably at least 85% by weight, more preferably at least 90%
by weight, more preferably at least 95% by weight, more preferably at least 98% by weight,
and more preferably at least 99% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
3. Changing colour composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein:
- the core of microcapsules containing releasable colorant(s), comprises at least one monosaccharide or its derivatives as said organic material, in particular a monosaccharide-polyol advantageously selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, preferably mannitol; and
- the layered coating surrounding said core comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer(s) selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and derivatives, preferably the ones including one type of ose or several type of ose(s), preferably several type of ose(s) including at least D-glucose units, in particular starch and derivatives, cellulose or derivatives, and more preferably starch and derivatives.
4. Changing colour composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein said microcapsules comprises at least:
a inner core made of monosaccharide-polyol, preferably mannitol,

at least two layers of different colour,
at least one hydrophilic polymer preferably selected from polysaccharide or
derivatives, and more preferably from starch or derivatives,
and advantageously at least one lipid based material, preferably an amphiphilic
compound, more preferably a phospholipid, even more preferably phosphoacylglycerol
such as hydrogenated lecithin.
5. Changing colour composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the microcapsules have a size ranging from 10 um to 800 um, preferably from
50 um to 600um in diameter of the microcapsule and comprise:
a. a core (A), preferably having a size ranging from 500 nm to 150 um in
diameter, which preferably does not contain any colorant, and comprising
at least one organic core preferably selected from at least one sugar
alcohol preferably a monosaccharide-polyol advantageously selected
from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, and mixture thereof;
b. one first layer (B) surrounding said core comprising:
i. at least one colorant, preferably iron oxide(s), and ii. a binder selected from at least one polymer, at least one
lipid-based material, and their mixture, preferably their
mixture ;
c. one second layer (C) surrounding said first layer (B), preferably having a
thickness of 5um to 500um, comprising:
i. titanium dioxide particles, and
ii. a binder selected from at least one polymer, at least one lipid-based material, and their mixture, preferably their mixture ;
d. optionally one third layer (D) surrounding said second layer (C)
comprising:
i. at least one colorant, and ii. a binder selected from at least one polymer, at least one
lipid-based material, and their mixture, preferably their
mixture ;
e. optionally one fourth layer (E) surrounding said third layer (D), if any, or

surrounding said second layer (C) comprising
- at least one wall-forming polymer preferably selected from polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, in particular cellulose ether and cellulose ester, from (poly)(alkyl)(meth)acrylic acid and derivatives, notably (poly)(alkyl)(meth)acrylate and derivatives, and preferably from alkylacrylic /alkylmethacrylic acid copolymers and their derivatives.
6. Changing colour composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the average particle size of the microcapsules is in the range of about 40 um to 400 um in diameter, preferably of about 50 um to 300 urn in diameter, in particular from 60um to 250um in diameter and more preferably of about 80 urn to 200 um in diameter.
7. Changing colour composition according to anyone of the preceding claims comprising from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% and 15% by weight and in particular between 1 and 10 % by weight of microcapsules relative to the total weight of the said composition.
8. Changing colour composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein said salicylic acid compound, advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and the compounds of formula (I) below:
in which:
- the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6

carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R' is a hydroxyl group;
- and also salts thereof derived from an inorganic or organic base.
9. Changing colour composition according to claim 8 wherein the radical R
denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon
atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or
more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon-based chains possibly
being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen
from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or
esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in
free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- and also salts thereof obtained by salification with an inorganic or organic base.
10. Changing colour composition according to anyone of claims 8 or 9
wherein the compound of formula (I) is select in the list consisting of 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoyl-salicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof, and is preferably 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
11. Changing colour cosmetic composition according to claims 8 to 10 wherein the amount of said salicylic acid compound is ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.15% to 5% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.20% to 3%> by weight, and most preferentially ranging from 0.25% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Changing colour cosmetic composition according to anyone of the preceding claims wherein said hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.
13. Changing colour cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim wherein said hydrophilic gelling agent is a natural or natural origin gelling agent, selected from starchy polysaccharides and non-starchy polysaccharides, or a synthetic polymeric gelling agent, selected from particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents, non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents comprising associative polymers,

polyacrylamides and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.
14. Changing colour cosmetic composition according to anyone of the preceding claims wherein said hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount of from 0.001% to 20%, from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, and better still from 1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Changing colour cosmetic composition according to anyone of the preceding claims wherein said monoalcohol and/or lower alcohol is present in an amount of at least 0.5% by weight, preferably at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 2 % by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 8% by weight, preferably from 4 to 8% by weight of mono-alcohol and/or lower alcohol relative to the total weight of said composition.
16. Changing colour cosmetic composition according to claim 15, wherein said composition comprises a mono-alcohol selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol.

17. Changing colour cosmetic composition according to claim 16 further comprising at least one polyol selected from the group consisting in glycerol and glycols, preferably propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerine, caprylyl glycol, glycol ethers, preferably mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol of alkyl(Cl-C4)ether or mono-, di- or triethylene glycol of alkyl(Cl-C4)ether, and mixtures thereof, more preferably the polyol is glycerol, wherein said at least one polyol is present in an amount of at least 0.5%, preferably from 0.5%) to 40% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, preferably from 4 to 8% by weight of polyol(s) and/or glycols based on the total weight of the composition.
18. Changing colour cosmetic composition according to anyone of the preceding claims further comprising at least one cosmetic and/or dermatological active.
19. Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratinic materials, comprising application on said keratinic materials in particular on the skin of a composition as defined according to anyone of the preceding claims.