The present application relates to a composition and a process involving applying the composition in the form of an emulsion onto hair for shaping or altering the shape of the hair, for example, by straightening the hair, wherein the composition contains a reducing agent, a neutralizing agent, at least two fatty substances, an alkoylated fatty alcohol, optionally a quaternary ammonium compound, and water.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic and personal care products for use on keratinous substrates such as hair are available commercially in various forms, for example, as creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of the form, these products have to achieve and provide certain benefits and attributes such as efficaciousness, cosmeticity, desirable texture, stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application. Thus, in order to meet changing consumer needs and preferences, manufacturers of such products continuously seek to re-formulate and create new products with enhanced efficacy, while still remaining stable and safe to use. In addition, manufacturers continue to test the use of new raw materials and ingredients or new product forms that would help deliver the desired attributes and properties with respect to viscosity, texture, stability and efficacy.

One area where manufacturers are always seeking to improve in is in the area of hair cosmetic products such as those products designed to change the appearance, shape or configuration of hair. Examples of such hair cosmetic products are hair relaxers or hair straighteners which can relax or straighten curly or kinky hair, including wavy hair. Hair relaxers may either be applied in a hair salon by a professional or in the home by the individual consumer. Straightening or relaxing the curls of very curly hair may increase the manageability and ease of styling of such hair.

One type of composition that can be applied onto hair in order to change its shape and make it more manageable is an alkaline composition. Alkaline hair relaxing/straightening involves hydrolyzing the keratin of the hair with various alkaline agents, such as inorganic hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, or organic hydroxides, such as guanidine hydroxide, or organic amines. Hair

relaxing/straightening products that employ sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide are also called lye-based products and products that use other alkaline agents such as lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, organic hydroxides and other non-hydroxide compounds, for example, organic amines, generally fall under the category of no-lye products.

Still, it is desirable to find alternatives to the alkaline lye- and no-lye-based products and process described above which can damage the hair by weakening and/or causing dryness of the hair fibers. However, the discovery of new compositions and processes for changing the shape of hair that impart less or minimal damage to hair, may pose challenges to manufacturers and formulators because the incorporation of new ingredients into the compositions may negatively impacting their performance, cosmetic attributes, and formulation stability. In addition, the alkalinity and/or pH is an important consideration for these products. New processes of treating and changing the shape of hair may also impact the performance of the compositions, processing times and quality of use.

The present invention provides a composition in the form of an emulsion for shaping or altering the shape of hair, such as by straightening the hair, containing a combination of a reducing agent, a neutralizing agent, at least two fatty substances, an alkoylated fatty alcohol, optionally a quaternary ammonium compound, and water wherein the composition is non-alkaline such that its pH ranges from about 2 to less than about 7. The present invention also provides a process for shaping or altering the shape of hair, such as by straightening the hair, in an easy and efficacious manner, the process comprising applying onto the hair, said composition, brushing the hair, heating the hair while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair, and rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an intermediate agent having a neutral pH and selected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water. The hair can be contacted with a shampoo having a neutral pH, then rinsed with water before the composition is applied onto the hair.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the composition of the present invention is stable and has a viscosity that corresponds to a non-drip, spreadable and homogeneous consistency that facilitates the ease of application of the composition onto hair fibers, thereby resulting in an effective process of shaping or altering the shape of hair. In addition, the process of the invention allows good straightening/relaxing of hair while at the same time limiting the degradation of hair and maintaining an appreciated working quality, especially without excessive vaporization of the composition at the time of straightening. The hair treatment process according to the invention also makes it possible to minimize the problems of breaking of the hair fibers. The composition and the process of the invention were also found to improve the physical properties of the hair, by durably reducing the volume of the hair and the frizziness effect.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an emulsion for straightening hair comprising:

(a) at least one reducing agent selected from thiol reducing agents, non-thiol reducing agents, and mixtures thereof;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising

i. a first fatty substance selected from alkanes, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-silicone waxes, mineral oils, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof; and

ii. a second fatty substance selected from fatty alcohols;

(d) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols and alkyl(ether)phosphates selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof;

(e) optionally, at least one quaternary ammonium compound; and

(f) water;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7

The present invention also relates to process for shaping hair or altering the shape of hair, the process comprising the steps of:

(a) applying onto the hair, the above-described composition;

(b) brushing the hair;

(c) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40 °C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(d) rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an

intermediate agent having a neutral pH and selected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water.

The hair can be contacted with a shampoo having a neutral pH, then rinsed with water before the composition in (1 ) is applied onto the hair

Methods of making the compositions of the present invention are also disclosed in this disclosure.

According to the present invention, the composition of the invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, for example, oil-in-water emulsion and water-in-oil emulsion.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not restrictive of the invention.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

Fig. 1 represents photographic images of hair samples, showing the straightening/shaping effects on hair imparted by the composition of the invention according to a rinsing protocol and a non-rinsing protocol.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," meaning within +/-10% of the indicated number.

"Keratinous substrates" as used herein, include, but are not limited to skin, lips, and keratin or keratinous fibers such as hair and eyelashes.

"Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about

100QC.

"Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100QC.

"Reducing agent" as used herein, means an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of the hair.

"Active material" as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.

All numbers expressing pH values are to be understood as being

modified in all instances by the term "about" which encompasses up to +/- 3%.

The compositions and processes of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an emulsion for straightening hair comprising:

(a) from about 1 % to about 15% by weight of least one reducing agent selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and mixtures thereof;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent selected from aminomethyl propanol, monoethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising

i. from about 1 % to about 60% by weight of a first fatty substance selected from hydrocarbons, mineral oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof;

ii. from about 2% to about 20% by weight of a second fatty substance selected from fatty alcohols

(d) from about 2.5% to about 6% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols and alkyl(ether)phosphates selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof;

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol, the aminomethyl propanol is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 6.3% by weight;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, the sodium hydroxide is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 4.1 % by weight;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from monoethanolamine, the monoethanolamine is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 4.1 % by weight;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7; and wherein the composition is an emulsion.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to an emulsion composition for straightening hair comprising:

(a) from about 4% to about 8% by weight of at least one reducing agent selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising

i. from about 30% to about 50% by weight of mineral oil; ii. from about 5% to about 10% by weight of cetearyl alcohol; (d) from about 2.5% to about 6% by weight of a mixture of PPG-5- Ceteth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate.

(e) from about 1 % to about 3% by weight of a mixture of polyuaterium-6and polyquaternium-67; and

(f) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to an emulsion composition for straightening hair comprising:

(a) from about 4% to about 8% by weight of at least one reducing agent selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising

i. from about 1 % to about 5% by weight of mineral oil;

ii. from about 5% to about 10% by weight of cetearyl alcohol; (d) from about 2.5% to about 5% by weight of a mixture of PPG-5- Ceteth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate;

(e) from about 1 % to about 3% by weight of polyquaterium-6; and

(f) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to an emulsion composition for straightening hair comprising:

(a) from about 4% to about 8% by weight of at least one reducing agent selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising

i. from about 30% to about 50% by weight of mineral oil; ii. from about 5% to about 10% by weight of cetearyl alcohol;

(d) from about 2% to about 10% by weight of at least two alkyl(ether)phosphates selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to an emulsion composition for straightening hair comprising:

(a) from about 4% to about 8% by weight of at least one reducing agent selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising

i. from about 1 % to about 5% by weight of mineral oil;

ii. from about 5% to about 10% by weight of cetearyl alcohol;

(d) from about 1 % to about 15% by weight of at least two alkyl(ether)phosphates selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to an emulsion composition for straightening hair comprising:

(a) from about 4% to about 8% by weight of at least one reducing agent selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent selected from aminomethyl propanol, monoethanolamine and sodium hydroxide;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising

i. from about 1 % to about 5% by weight of a first fatty substance selected from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, mineral oil, hexane, dodecane, isohexadecane, isodecane, sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof;

ii. from about 5% to about 10% by weight of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(d) from about 2.5% to about 5% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols and alkyl(ether)phosphates selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7.

In an embodiment, the present invention relates to a process for straightening hair, the process comprising the steps of:

(1 ) contacting hair with a shampoo having a neutral pH; (2) rinsing the hair with water;

(3) applying onto the hair, a composition containing:

(a) from about 1 % to about 15% by weight of least one reducing agent selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and mixtures thereof;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent selected from aminomethyl propanol, monoethanolamine and sodium hydroxide;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising

i. from about 1 % to about 60% by weight of a first fatty substance selected from hydrocarbons, mineral oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof;

ii. from about 2% to about 20% by weight of a second fatty substance selected from fatty alcohols

(d) from about 2.5% to about 5% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols and alkyl(ether)phosphates selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof;

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol, the aminomethyl propanol is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 6.3% by weight;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, the sodium hydroxide is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 4.1 % by weight;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from monoethanolamine, the monoethanolamine is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 4.1 % by weight;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7; and wherein the composition is an emulsion.

(4) brushing the hair;

(5) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40 °C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(6) rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an intermediate agent having a neutral pH and selected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water.

Preferably, the above-described process comprises the steps of:

(1 ) First, contacting hair with a shampoo having a neutral pH;

(2) Second, rinsing the hair with water;

(3) Third, applying onto the hair, any one of the above-described compositions of the invention;

(4) Fourth, brushing the hair;

(5) Fifth, heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40 °C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(6) Sixth, heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40 °C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair.

In certain embodiments, the heating step in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is preferably accomplished by use of device such as a heating flat iron device, a blow dryer, or a hair dryer. When a hair dryer or blow dryer is used, a brush or comb may be passed one or more times over or through the hair.

The heating step in any one of the above-described processes of the invention may also be accompanied by a smoothing action on the hair, preferably performed with a mechanical or physical device, for example, the plates of a flat iron or a hair brush.

In certain embodiments, the heating step in any one of the above-described processes is accomplished at a temperature higher than 100 °C.

In certain embodiments, the composition in in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient to shape or alter the shape of the composition.

In preferred embodiments, the composition in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is a hair straightening composition. In yet other preferred embodiments, said hair straightening composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient as to achieve a desired degree of hair straightening.

The compositions in the above-described process are stable over time, that is, they do not exhibit phase separation and they can be stored for several months without modification and with very little change or fluctuation in the viscosity and/or rheology and pH of the composition.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the application of the compositions of the present invention, resulted in effectively shaped or straightened hair.

It was also surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the composition of the invention was stable over time and had a smooth, non-drip, and homogenous texture/consistency and effectively shaped or straightened hair.

The non-drip consistency of the compositions of the present invention is desirable because it helps the compositions to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time as to achieve the desired shape of the hair or desired degree of straightening of the hair.

REDUCING AGENT

The present invention employs at least one reducing agent selected from thiol or non-thiol reducing agents.

Thiol reducing agents which can be used in the composition of the invention include thiol reducing agents selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 -mercaptopropionic acid, thio diglyco I, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, their salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Non-thiol reducing agents which can be used in the composition of the invention include in particular alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, hydrides or phosphines, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the reducing agent or agents used in the composition of the invention are thiol reducing agents, more particularly thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid or their salts thereof, especially alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium salts, cysteine, and mixtures thereof.

In yet other embodiments, the reducing agent used in the composition of the invention is chosen from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and mixtures thereof

In certain embodiments, the reducing agent used in the composition of the invention is thiolactic acid.

In other embodiments, the reducing agent used in the composition of the invention is thioglycolic acid.

In yet other embodiments, the reducing agent used in the composition of the invention comprises thiolactic acid and thiolgycolic acid.

The at least one reducing agent can be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 1 % to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 4% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the at least one reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid and is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 1 %, or about 2%, of about 3%, or about 4%, or about 5%, of about

5.5%, or about 6%, or about 6.5%, or about 7%, or about 7.5%, or about 8%, or about 9%, or about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

FATTY SUBSTANCES

The present invention employs at least two fatty substances. The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25 degrees centigrade) and at atmospheric pressure (760 immHg) (solubility of less than 5 percent, preferably 1 percent and even more preferentially 0.1 percent). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

FIRST FATTY SUBSTANCE

The present invention employs a first fatty substance selected from alkanes, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-silicone waxes, mineral oils, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty substances are especially chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of plant origin, glycerides or fluoro oils of synthetic origin, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and silicones.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the C6-Ci6 alkanes, they are linear, branched or possibly cyclic. Mention may be made, by way of example, of hexane, dodecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam(R).

Among the animal oils, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

Among the triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, mention may be made of liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol(R) 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.

Among the fluoro oils, mention may be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec(R) PC1 and Flutec(R) PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 , 2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050(R) and PF 5060(R) by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl(R) by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-(trifluoromethyl)perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052(R) by the company 3M.

The wax(es) that may be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (I) are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for instance olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

As regards the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched d-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl

lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate; 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate; butyl stearate; isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate; hexyl laurate or 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of this alternative form, use may also be made of esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy C2-C26 alcohols.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, use is preferably made of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C3o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose,

arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group consisting of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C6-C3o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise from one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this alternative form can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters can, for example, be oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or their mixtures, such as, in particular, oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate/stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate(R) DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Mention may also be made, by way of examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid, of:

the products sold under the names F160, F140, F1 10, F90, F70 and SL40 by Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitate/stearates formed of 73 percent monoester and 27 percent di- and triester, of 61 percent monoester and 39 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, of 52 percent monoester and 48 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, of 45 percent monoester and 55 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, and of 39 percent monoester and 61 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed of 20 percent monoester and 80 percent diester, triester and polyester;

the sucrose monopalmitate/stearate-dipalmitate/stearate sold by

Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft(R) PSE.

The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, having a viscosity from 5x10"6

to 2.5 m2/s at 25 degrees centigrade, and preferably 1 x10"5 to 1 m2/s.

The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention can be provided in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

CLAIMS

A composition in the form of an emulsion for straightening hair comprising:

(a) at least one reducing agent selected from thiol reducing agents, non-thiol reducing agents, and mixtures thereof;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising

i. a first fatty substance selected from alkanes, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-silicone waxes, mineral oils, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof; and

ii. a second fatty substance selected from fatty alcohols;

(d) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols and alkyl(ether)phosphates selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof;

(e) optionally, at least one quaternary ammonium compound; and

(f) water;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one reducing agent is present in an amount of from 1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition, according to claim 1 and claim 2, wherein the at least one reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 - mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine and salts thereof, alkali metal sulfites, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, and their salts thereof, preferably from thiolactic acid and thioglycolic acid.

5. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least neutralizing agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol and is present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 6.3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 4.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the at least neutralizing agent is selected from sodium hydroxide and is present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 4.1 % by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 3.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the at least neutralizing agent is selected from monoethanolamine and is present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 4.1 % by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 3.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first fatty substance is selected from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, mineral oil, hexane, dodecane, isohexadecane, isodecane, sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof.

1 1 . The composition according to claim 10, wherein the first fatty substance is present in an amount of from 1 % to 60% by weight, preferably from

1 .5% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 45% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second fatty substance is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the second fatty substance is present in an amount of from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the optionally at least one quaternary ammonium compound is selected from polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising: (i) at least one organic solvent selected from C2-C8 alcohols, glycols, polyols, polyol ethers, glycol ethers, glycerin, hydrocarbons, oils, and mixtures thereof and/or (ii)at least one auxiliary ingredient selected from conditioning agents, natural and synthetic oils, humectants, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.

16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is in the form of an emulsion and wherein the composition is used for straightening hair.

17. A process for shaping hair or altering the shape of hair, the process comprising the steps of:

(a) applying onto hair, a composition in the form of an emulsion containing:

i. at least one reducing agent selected from thiol reducing agents, non-thiol reducing agents and mixtures thereof;

ii. at least one neutralizing agent;

iii. at least two fatty substances comprising

(1 ) a first fatty substance selected from alkanes, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-silicone waxes, mineral oils, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof; and

(2) a second fatty substance selected from fatty alcohols;

IV. at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl(ether)phosphates selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof;

v. optionally, at least one quaternary ammonium compound; and

we. water;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7;

(b) brushing the hair;

(c) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40 °C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(d) rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an intermediate agent having a neutral pH and selected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water.

18. The process according to claim 17, wherein the at least one reducing agent is present in an amount of from 1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

19. The process according to claims 17 to 18, wherein the at least one reducing agent is selected from thiolactic acid, thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 - mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine and their salts thereof, alkali metal sulfites, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, and mixtures thereof.

20. The process according to claims 17 to 19, wherein the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof.

21 . The process according to any one of claims 17 to 20, wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from monoethanolamine, it is present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 6.3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5.5%

by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 4.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

22. The process according to any one of claims 17 to 21 , wherein the first fatty substance is selected from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, mineral oil, hexane, dodecane, isohexadecane, isodecane, sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof.

23. The process according to any one of claims 17 to 22, wherein the second fatty substance is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

24. The process according to any one of claims 17 to 23, further comprising: (i) at least one organic solvent selected from C2 to C4 alcohols, glycols, glycol ethers, glycerin, hydrocarbons, mineral oil, polybutenes, and mixtures thereof; and/or (ii) at least one auxiliary ingredient selected from conditioning agents, natural and synthetic oils, humectants, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.

25. The process, according to any one of claims 17 to 24, wherein step (a) is preceded by (i) optionally, rinsing the hair with water while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; (ii) contacting the hair with a shampoo having a neutral pH; and (iii) rinsing the hair with water.

26. The process according to any one of claims 17 to 25, wherein step (d) is carried out a temperature of at least 100 °C such as from 150 °C to 250 °C, preferably with a flat iron device.

27. The process according to any one of claims 17 to 26, further comprising a step of rinsing the hair with water after step (a).

28. The process according to any one of claims 17 to 27, wherein after applying the composition on the hair according to step (a), the process further comprises a step of leaving the composition in step (a) on the hair for a period of time of 5 to 30 minutes before brushing the hair according to step (b) or before rinsing the hair with water according to claim 27.

29. A method of making a composition in the form of an emulsion for shaping or altering the shape of hair, the method comprising:

(1 ) combining:

(a) least one reducing agent selected from thiol reducing agents, non-thiol reducing agents and mixtures thereof present in an amount of from 1 % to

15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising:

i. a first fatty substance selected from alkanes, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-silicone waxes, mineral oils, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof; and

ii. a second fatty substance selected from fatty alcohols;

(d) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl(ether)phosphates selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof;

(e) optionally 0.5% to 5% by weight of at least one quaternary ammonium compound selected from polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10, polyquaterium-67, and mixtures thereof; and

(f) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition; and

(2) mixing (a) to (f) in order to form a composition having a pH ranging from 2 to less than 7.

30. A composition for straightening hair comprising:

(a) from 3% to 10% by weight of least one reducing agent selected from thioglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid, and mixtures thereof;

(b) from 0.2% to 5% by weight of at least one neutralizing agent selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof;

(c) at least two fatty substances comprising:

i. from 2% to 45% by weight of mineral oil;

ii. from 3% to 10% by weight of cetearyl alcohol;

(d) from 2% to 10% by weight of at least one alkyl(ether)phosphate from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof;

(e) from 0.5% to 3% by weight of at least one quaternary ammonium compound selected from polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-10, polyquaterium-67, and mixtures thereof; and

(f) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7; and wherein the composition is an emulsion.