FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present application relates to a composition and a process involving applying the composition onto hair, wherein the composition contains an thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid and its derivatives or its salts, and wherein the composition has a pH of less than 7.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic and personal care products for use on keratinous substrates such as hair are available commercially in various forms, for example, as creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of the form, these products have to achieve and provide certain benefits and attributes such as efficaciousness, cosmeticity, desirable texture, stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application. Thus, in order to meet changing consumer needs and preferences, manufacturers of such products continuously seek to re-formulate and create new products with enhanced efficacy, while still remaining stable and safe to use. In addition, manufacturers continue to test the use of new raw materials and ingredients or new product forms that would help deliver the desired attributes and properties with respect to viscosity, texture, stability and efficacy.

One area where manufacturers are always seeking to improve in is in the area of hair cosmetic products such as those products designed to change the appearance, shape or configuration of hair as well as to provide hair care benefits of manageability, frizz control, volume reduction, and improved quality of the hair fiber. Examples of such hair cosmetic products are hair relaxers or hair straighteners which can relax or straighten curly or kinky hair, including wavy hair. Other hair cosmetic products are perms and waving compositions for providing curl or shape to hair. These products may increase the manageability and ease of styling hair and they may either be applied in a hair salon by a professional or in the home by the individual consumer.

One type of composition that can be applied onto hair in order to change its shape and make it more manageable is an alkaline composition. Alkaline hair relaxing/straightening involves hydrolyzing the keratin of the hair with various alkaline agents, such as inorganic hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, or organic hydroxides, such as guanidine hydroxide, or organic amines. Hair relaxing/straightening products that employ sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide are also called lye-based products and products that use other alkaline agents such as lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, organic hydroxides and other non-hydroxide compounds, for example, organic amines, generally fall under the category of no-lye products.

Still, it is desirable to find alternatives to the alkaline lye- and no-lye-based products and process described above which can damage the hair by weakening and/or causing dryness of the hair fibers. However, the discovery of new compositions and processes for changing the shape of hair that impart less or minimal damage to hair, may pose challenges to manufacturers and formulators because the incorporation of new ingredients into the compositions may negatively impacting their performance, cosmetic attributes, and formulation stability. In addition, the alkalinity and/or pH is an important consideration for these products. New processes of treating and changing the shape of hair may also impact the performance of the compositions, processing times and quality of use.

The present invention provides a hair cosmetic composition for shaping or altering the shape of hair or caring of the hair, the composition containing an thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof, optionally a neutralizing agent, and water, wherein the composition is non-alkaline such that its pH ranges from about 2 to less than about 7. The present invention also provides a process for shaping or altering the shape of hair or caring of the hair, such as by straightening the hair or by providing improved manageability to the hair, in an easy and efficacious manner, the process comprising applying onto the hair, said composition and heating the hair while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair, and optionally, rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an intermediate agent selected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water. The treatment of hair in accordance with the process of the present disclosure can be followed by a step of contacting the hair with a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent. Such neutralizing composition can be a rinse-off or leave-in product. The hair can also be contacted with a pre-treatment composition such as a shampoo, then rinsed with water before the hair cosmetic composition is applied onto the hair or other pre-treatment compositions which may be leave-in or rinse-off compositions.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the composition of the present invention, when applied onto hair fibers, result in an effective process of shaping or altering the shape of hair or providing hair care benefits to hair such as manageability, frizz control and volume reduction. In addition, the process of the invention allows the straightening or texlaxing (results in wavy hair) of hair while at the same time, limiting or avoiding the degradation of hair resulting from alkaline systems and maintaining desirable working conditions, especially since there is no excessive vaporization of the composition at the time of treating the hair in accordance with the hair treatment process according to the invention. The hair treatment process according to the invention also makes it possible to minimize the problems of breakage of the hair fibers. The composition and the process of the invention were also found to improve the physical properties and appearance of hair, by durably reducing or controlling the volume and frizziness of hair.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof;

(b) optionally, at least one neutralizing agent; and

(c) water;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to less than about 7.

The present invention also relates to a process for shaping hair or altering the shape of hair, the process comprising the steps of:

(1 ) applying onto hair, the above-described composition:

(2) optionally, brushing or combing or smoothing the hair;

(3) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40°C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(4) optionally, rinsing the hair with water.

The hair can be contacted after step (3) with an intermediate agent selected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water.

The hair can also be contacted with a shampoo or a conditioner, then rinsed with water before the hair cosmetic composition is applied onto the hair.

The hair can also be contacted with a pre-treatment composition before the hair cosmetic composition is applied onto the hair.

Methods of making the compositions of the present invention are also disclosed in this disclosure.

According to the present invention, the composition of the invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, for example, oil-in-water emulsion and water-in-oil emulsion or in the form of a gel or lotion or aqueous solution.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not restrictive of the invention.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

Fig. 1 represents photographic images of hair samples, showing the straightening/shaping effects on hair after being contacted with the hair cosmetic composition and treated according to the processes of the present disclosure.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," meaning within +/-10% of the indicated number (e.g. "about 10%" means 9% - 1 1 % and "about 2%" means 1 .8% - 2.2%), such as within 9%, 8%, 7%, 6%, 5%, 4%, 3%, 2%, or 1 %, according to various embodiments.

"Keratinous substrates" as used herein, includes, but is not limited to keratin fibers such as hair on the human head and hair comprising eyelashes. "Keratinous substrates" as used herein, may also refer to the skin such as lips, finger nails or toe nails, and the scalp.

As used herein, the terms "applying a composition onto "keratinous substrates" as used herein, includes, and "applying a composition onto "keratinous substrates" or "keratin fibers" such as hair on a human head with at least one of the compositions of the disclosure, in any manner.

The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair. The term 'treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to contacting keratinous substrates such as hair with the compositions of the present disclosure.

The term "rinse-off" is used herein to mean that a keratinous substrate such as hair is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of a composition onto the keratinous substrate, and before drying and/or shaping said keratinous substrate. At least a portion of the composition is removed from the keratinous substrate during the rinsing and/or washing. A "rinse-off" product refers to a composition such as a hair care composition that is rinsed and/or washed with water either after or during the application of the composition onto the keratinous substrate, and before drying and/or styling said keratinous substrate.

A "leave-on" product refers to a cosmetic composition such as a hair cosmetic composition that is applied to a keratinous substrate such as hair and not further subjected to a rinsing and/or washing step before drying and/or shaping the substrate.

The term "stable" as used herein means that the composition does not exhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.

"Volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about

100QC.

"Non-volatile", as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100QC.

"Reducing agent" as used herein, means an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of the hair.

"Active material" as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.

The compositions and processes of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

In one embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts and mixtures thereof, and present in an amount of from about 1 % to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 1 .5% to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 2% to about 10% by weight, even more preferably from about 3% to about 9% by weight;

(b) optionally, at least one neutralizing agent selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide,

aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof; and

(c) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to less than about 7;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol, the aminomethyl propanol is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 6.3% by weight;

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, the sodium hydroxide is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 4.1 % by weight; and

wherein when the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from monoethanolamine, the monoethanolamine is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 4.1 % by weight.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from about 1 .5% to about 12% by weight of at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) optionally, at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least one fatty substance;

(d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about 6.5.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from about 2% to about 10% by weight of at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) at least one fatty substance selected from from alkanes, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-silicone waxes, mineral oil, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, preferably mineral oil, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;

(d) at least one quaternary ammonium compound selected from behentrimoinium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, quaternium-87, quaternium-83, and polyquaternium compounds such as polyquaternium-6, or polyquaternium 10, or polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about 5.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from about 3% to about 9% by weight of at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) from about 1 % to about 80% by weight at least one fatty substance comprising oils and fatty alcohols;

(d) from about 0.1 % to about 20% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkyl(ether)phosphates such as PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, or Stearyl phosphate; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about 5.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from about 3% to about 9% by weight of at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) from about 1 % to about 80% by weight at least one fatty substance comprising oils and fatty alcohols;

(d) from about 0.1 % to about 20% by weight of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether)phosphates,

alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkyl(ether)phosphates such as PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, or Stearyl phosphate;

(e) at least one quaternary ammonium compound selected from behentrimoinium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, quaternium-87, quaternium-83, and polyquaternium compounds such as polyquaternium-6, or polyquaternium 10, or polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof; and

(f) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to about 5.

In certain embodiments, the above-described compositions of the present disclosure comprises at least two fatty substances selected from oils such as mineral oil and fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In other embodiments, the above-described compositions of the present disclosure comprises at least two nonionic surfactants selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) from about 3% to about 9% by weight of at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid;

(b) at least one neutralizing agent;

(c) from about 0.5% to about 8% by weight of at least one silicone compound;

(d) from about 0.3% to about 1 .5% by weight of at least one thickening agent selected from thickening polymers comprising at least one sugar unit, for instance nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with C1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan gum or xanthan gum, gums derived from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth,

carrageenan gum, agar gum and carob gum, pectins, alginates, starches, hydroxy(C1 -C6)alkylcelluloses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses), and carboxy(C1 -C6)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably, hydroxyalkyl celluloses; and

(e) water;

all weights being based on the total weight of the composition;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to less than about 7.

In an embodiment, the present invention relates to a process for straightening hair, the process comprising the steps of:

(1 ) optionally, contacting hair with a shampoo and/or conditioner, followed by rinsing the hair with water;

(2) applying onto the hair, any one of the above-described compositions of the present disclosure,

(3) optionally, brushing or combing or smoothing the hair; (4) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40°C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(5) optionally, rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an intermediate agent selected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water; and

(6) optionally, contacting the hair with a neutralizing composition comprising an oxidizing agent.

Preferably, the above-described process comprises the steps of:

(1 ) first, applying onto the hair, any one of the above-described compositions of the invention;

(2) second, brushing or combing or smoothing the hair;

(3) third, heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40°C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(4) fourth, heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40°C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair.

In certain embodiments, the heating step in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is preferably accomplished by use of device such as a blow dryer, a flat iron, a hair dryer, a heat lamp, a heat wand, a heating hood, a heating cap, a heating rod, heating curlers/rods or steam curlers. When a hair dryer or blow dryer is used, a brush or comb or the fingers may be passed one or more times over or through the hair.

The heating step in any one of the above-described processes of the invention may also be accompanied by a smoothing action on the hair, preferably performed with a mechanical or physical device, for example, the plates of a flat iron or a hair brush.

In certain embodiments, the heating step in any one of the above-described processes is accomplished at a temperature higher than 100°C.

In other embodiments, the heating step in any one of the above-described processes is accomplished at a temperature of up to 100°C.

In yet other embodiments, the heating step in any one of the above-described processes is accomplished at a temperature of higher than 50°C.

In certain embodiments, the above-described compositions employed in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient to shape or alter the shape or provide hair benefits to hair (e.g., manageability, frizz control or volume reduction).

In preferred embodiments, the composition in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is a hair straightening composition. In yet other preferred embodiments, said hair straightening composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient as to achieve a desired degree of hair straightening.

In yet other preferred embodiments, the composition in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is a hair care composition.

In yet other preferred embodiments, the composition in any one of the above-described processes of the invention is a hair styling composition.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the application of the compositions of the present invention when used in combination with the process of the present invention, resulted in effectively shaped or styled or straightened hair.

It was also surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that when the composition of the invention additionally contained one or more of nonionic surfactants, fatty substances, quaternary ammonium compounds, thickening agents, and silicone compounds, the composition had a smooth, non-drip, and homogenous texture/consistency. The non-drip consistency of the compositions of the present invention is desirable because it helps the compositions to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time as to achieve the desired cosmetic effects.

THIOL-BASED COMPOUNDS

The present invention employs at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

The at least one thiol-based compound of the present disclosure can be used in combination with other thiol-based compounds selected from thioglycolic acid, cysteine, cysteamine, homocystine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid, 2-mercaptopropionic acid, 3 -mercaptopropionic acid, thio diglyco I, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithiothreitol, thioxanthine, thiosalicylic acid, thiopropionic acid, lipoic acid, N-acetylcysteine, their salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

The at least one thiol-based compound of the present disclosure can be also be used in combination with non-thiol based compounds such as alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal sulfites, hydrides or phosphines, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the thiol-based compound used in the composition of the invention is thiolactic acid.

The at least one thiol-based compound can be employed in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 1 % to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 1 .5% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 2% to about 8% by weight, more preferably from about 3% to about 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the at least one thiol-based compound is selected from thiolactic acid and is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 1 %, 1 .25%, 1 .5%, 1 .75%, 2%, 2.25%, 2.5%, or about 2.75%, 3%, 3.25%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%, 5%, 5.25%, 5.5%, 5.75%, 6%, 6.25%, 6.5%, 6.75%, 7%, 7.25%, 7.5%, 7.75%, 8%, 8.25%, 8.5%, 8.75%, 9%, 9.5%, 10%, 10.5%, 1 1 %, 1 1 .5%, 12%, 13%, or 14%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

NEUTRALIZING AGENT

Suitable neutralizing agents may be selected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, organic amines, hydroxide base compounds, and mixtures thereof, particularly from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, and mixtures thereof.

Organic amines may be selected from amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (or

aminomethyl propanol), ethylamines, ethyleneamines, alkanolamines, cyclic amines and other cyclic compounds, saturated or unsaturated, having one or more nitrogen atoms within the ring, and mixtures thereof.

The organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.

Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or two primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linear or branched C1 -C8 alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.

Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C1 -C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline, aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine, imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine, piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.

Among the compounds of the alkanolamine type that may be mentioned include but not limited to: monoethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

Other examples include but are not limited to: 1 ,3-diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acids.

As non-limiting examples, the amino acids that may be used may be of natural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen from, for instance, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions. The amino acids may be in their neutral or ionic form.

Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure include but are not limited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.

Further as non-limiting examples, the amino acids may be chosen from basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids may be chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, non-limiting mention may also be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, 1 ,2,4-triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present disclosure include but not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and baleine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this type that may be used in the present disclosure include, besides arginine that has already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.

The alkali metal phosphates and carbonates that may be used are, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, and their derivatives.

The hydroxide base compounds chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides, organic hydroxides, and mixtures thereof. Suitable examples are ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, rubidium hydroxide, caesium hydroxide, francium hydroxide, beryllium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide, cobalt hydroxide, cadmium hydroxide, cerium hydroxide, lanthanum hydroxide, actinium hydroxide, thorium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

The at least one neutralizing agent may be chosen from at least one organic amine such as at least one alkanolamine. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (aminomethyl propanol), ethanolamine (also known as monoethanolamine or MEA), triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof. An even more particularly preferred alkanolamine is ethanolamine.

According to at least one embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

According to another preferred embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol and is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 6.3% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 5.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 5% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.3% to about 4.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges there between.

In certain embodiments, the at least one neutralizing agent selected from aminomethyl propanol is employed in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of about 0.1 %, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1 %, 1 .3%, 1 .4%, 1 .5%, 1 .75%, 2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.75%, or 3%, 3.3%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.3%, 4.5%, 4.6%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from sodium hydroxide and is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 4.1 % by weight, preferably from about 0.15% to about 3.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 3% by weight, even more preferably from about 1 % to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the at least one neutralizing agent selected from sodium hydroxide is employed in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of about 0.1 %, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1 %, 1 .1 %, 1 .2%, 1 .3%, 1 .4%, 1 .5%, 1 .6%, 1 .7%, 1 .8%, 1 .9%, 2%, 2.1 %, 2.2%, about 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.6%, 2.7%, 2.8%, 2.9%, 3%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In yet another preferred embodiment, the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from monoethanolamine and is present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 6.3% by weight, preferably from about 0.2% to about 5.5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 5% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.3% to about 4.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges there between.

In certain embodiments, the at least one neutralizing agent selected from monoethanolamine is employed in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of about 0.1 %, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 0.9%, 1 %, 1 .3%, 1 .4%, 1 .5%, 1 .75%, 2%, 2.3%, 2.4%, 2.5%, 2.75%, or 3%, 3.3%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.3%, 4.5%, 4.6%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

FATTY SUBSTANCES

The present invention employs at least one fatty substance. The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25 degrees centigrade) and at atmospheric pressure (760 immHg) (solubility of less than 5 percent, preferably 1 percent and even more preferentially 0.1 percent). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substance may be selected from alkanes, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, non-silicone waxes, mineral oil, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty substances are especially chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of plant origin, glycerides or fluoro oils of synthetic origin, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, and non-silicone waxes.

It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

As regards the C6-Ci6 alkanes, they are linear, branched or possibly cyclic. Mention may be made, by way of example, of hexane, dodecane or

isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam(R).

Among the animal oils, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

Among the triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, mention may be made of liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol(R) 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.

Among the fluoro oils, mention may be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec(R) PC1 and Flutec(R) PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1 , 2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050(R) and PF 5060(R) by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl(R) by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-(trifluoromethyl)perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052(R) by the company 3M.

The wax(es) that may be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (I) are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for instance olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.

As regards the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 -C26

aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 1 0.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; Ci2-Ci5 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate; 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate; butyl stearate; isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate; hexyl laurate or 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still within the context of this alternative form, use may also be made of esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy C2-C26 alcohols.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, use is preferably made of ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C3o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several

alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group consisting of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C6-C3o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise from one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this alternative form can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.

These esters can, for example, be oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or their mixtures, such as, in particular, oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.

More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate/stearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate(R) DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Mention may also be made, by way of examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid, of:

the products sold under the names F160, F140, F1 10, F90, F70 and SL40 by Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitate/stearates formed of 73 percent monoester and 27 percent di- and triester, of 61 percent monoester and 39 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, of 52 percent monoester and 48 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, of 45 percent monoester and 55 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, and of 39 percent monoester and 61 percent di-, tri- and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed of 20 percent monoester and 80 percent diester, triester and polyester;

the sucrose monopalmitate/stearate-dipalmitate/stearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft(R) PSE.

Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylene units or any glycerol units. Preferably, the first fatty substances are not salified fatty acids or soaps, which are water-soluble compounds.

The fatty substances are advantageously chosen from C6-Ci6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes, oils of plant origin, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, and silicones, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty substance is an oil (a compound that is liquid at a temperature of 25 degrees centigrade and at atmospheric pressure).

Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from mineral oil, C6-Ci6 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters or their mixtures.

Better still, the fatty substance is chosen from mineral oil, C6-C16 alkanes or polydecenes.

Most preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, mineral oil, dodecafluoropentane, hexane, dodecane, isohexadecane, isodecane, sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof.

The fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition may be chosen from alcohols of formula R'OH, in which R' denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol.

In certain embodiments, the at least fatty substance is chosen from mineral oil, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

The at least one fatty substance can be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from 1 % to 80% by weight, preferably from 1 .5% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 55% by weight, based on the

total weight of the composition

The fatty substance chosen from oils such as mineral oil, can be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 1 % to about 70% by weight, preferably from about 1 % to about 65% by weight, more preferably from about 1 % to about 60% by weight, more preferably from about 1 .5% to about 55% by weight, more preferably from about 1 .75% to about 50% by weight, more preferably from about 2% to about 45% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the fatty substance is selected from mineral oil and is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 1 %, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 9%, or 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In other embodiments, the fatty substance is selected from mineral oil and is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 40%, 41 %, 42%, 43%, 43.5%, 44%, 44.5%, 45%, 46%, 47%, 48%, 49%, or 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols can be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 1 % to about 25% by weight, more preferably from about 2% to about 20% by weight, more preferably from about 2.5% to about 15% by weight, more preferably from about 2.75% to about 12% by weight, more preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the fatty substance is selected from cetearyl alcohol and is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 1 %, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8%, 9%, or 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

NONIONIC SURFACTANT

The compositions according to various embodiments of the disclosure also comprise at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkylpolyglucosides, alkyl(ether)phosphates, and mixtures thereof.

"Alkoxylated fatty alcohol" as used herein means a compound having at least one fatty portion (8 carbon atoms or more) and at least one alkoxylated portion (-(CH2)nO-, where n is an integer from 1 to 5, preferably 2 to 3). According to

particularly preferred embodiments, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention can be used as non-ionic surfactants, if desired. In this regard, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention preferably have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value from 1 -20, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, with HLB values ranging from 1 to 5 (particularly 3 to 5) or from 15-20 (particularly 16 to 18) being most preferred.

Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol can be chosen from di-alkyl, tri-alkyl- and combinations of di-alkyl and tri-alkyl substituted ethoxylated polymers. They can also be chosen from mono-alkyl, di-alkyl, tri-alkyl, tetra-alkyl substituted alkyl ethoxylated polymers and all combinations thereof. The alkyl group can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear and contain a number of carbon atoms preferably from about 12 carbon atoms to about 50 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, for example, 20 to 40 carbon atoms, 22 to 24 carbon atoms, 30 to 50 carbon atoms, and 40 to 60 carbon atoms. Most preferably, the fatty portion contains a mixture of compounds of varying carbon atoms such as, for example, C20-C40 compounds, C22-C24 compounds, C30-050 compounds, and C40-C60 compounds.

Preferably, the alkoxylated portion of the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention contain 2 or more alkoxylation units, preferably from 10 to 200 alkoxylation units, preferably from 20 to 150 alkoxylation units, and preferably from 25 to 100 alkoxylation units, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Also preferably, the alkoxylation units contain 2 carbon atoms (ethoxylation units) and/or 3 carbon atoms (propoxylation units).

The amount of alkoxylation can also be determined by the percent by weight of the alkoxylated portion with respect to the total weight of the compound. Suitable weight percentages of the alkoxylated portion with respect to the total weight of the compound include, but are not limited to, 10 percent to 95 percent, preferably 20 percent to 90 percent, including all ranges and subranges therebetween with 75 percent to 90 percent (particularly 80 percent to 90 percent) or 20 percent to 50 percent being preferred.

Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohols of the present invention have a number average molecular weight (Mn) greater than 500, preferably from 500 to 5,000, including all ranges and subranges therebetween such as, for example, Mn of 500 to 1250 or an Mn of 2,000 to 5,000.

The alkyl substitution of the alkoxylated fatty alcohol can include mono-alkyl, di-alkyl, tri-alkyl and tetra-alkyl substitution of the polymer and combinations thereof. Suitable examples of mono alkyl substituted polymers include: Steareth-100 available as Brij 700 from Uniqema Inc., Pareth alcohols available as Performathox 450, 480 and 490 available from New Phase Technologies, Inc. Suitable examples of di-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate available as Glutamate DOE-120 and Glucamate DOE-120 both from Chemron Corporation. Suitable examples of tri-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate available as Glucamate LT from Chemron Corporation. Suitable examples of tetra-alkyl substituted polymers include PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate available as Crothix from Croda Corporation.

Suitiable alkoxylated fatty alcohols for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated C20-C40 fatty alcohols sold under the PERFORMATHOX(R) name by New Phase Technologies such as, for example, PERFORMATHOX(R) 420 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=575; 20 percent by weight ethoxylation), PERFORMATHOX(R) 450 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=920; 50 percent by weight ethoxylation), PERFORMATHOX(R) 480 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=2300; 80 percent by weight ethoxylation), PERFORMATHOX(R) 490 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=4600; 90 percent by weight ethoxylation), PERFORMATHOX(R) 520 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=690; 20 percent by weight ethoxylation), and PERFORMATHOX(R) 550 ETHOXYLATE (Mn=1 100; 50 percent by weight ethoxylation).

Suitable alkyl(ether)phosphates include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters corresponding to a mono-ester of formula (I) and salts thereof:

ROICHzOluKCHzJxCHiR'JiCHzJyiCHzJzOlvICHzCHzOJw-PO-iOHJz Formula (I); a di-ester corresponding to formula (II) and salts thereof:

{RO[CH20]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH20]w}2PO-(OH) Formula (II); a tri-ester corresponding to formula (III):

{RO[CH20]u[(CH2)xCH(R')(CH2)y(CH2)zO]v[CH2CH20]w}3PO Formula (III);

and combinations thereof, wherein:

R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms;

u, v and w, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 60;

x, y and z, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to 13;

FT represents hydrogen, alkyl, the sum of x+y+z being ?0. The numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation. Whereas, on a molecular level, the numbers u, v and w and the total degree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, on a macroscopic level they are mean values in the form of broken numbers.

In formulas (I), (II) and (III), R is linear or branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a linear or branched, acyclic C6-4o alkyl or alkenyl group or a Ci-40 alkyl phenyl group, more particularly a C8-22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a C4-i8 alkyl phenyl group, more preferably a C12-18 alkyl group or alkenyl group or a C6-16 alkyl phenyl group; u, v, w, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 20, more preferably a number from 3 to 17 and most preferably a number from 5 to 15;

x, y, z, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to

13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a number from 0 to 8.

In general, the lower the number of carbon atoms in the R group of the phosphate esters, the more irritating to the skin and the less soluble in water the phosphate ester becomes. In contrast, the higher the number of carbon atoms in the R group, the milder to the skin and the thicker and more waxy the resultant product becomes. Accordingly, for best results, R should have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Examples of alkylpolyglucosides are decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside.

Particularly preferred alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters for use in the present invention are PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS SG(R)), Oleth-3 phosphate (CRODAFOS N3 acid), Oleth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS N10 acid), and a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate (CRODAFOS CES) all sold by Croda. Particularly preferred alkyl phosphate esters are Cetyl phosphate (Hostaphat CC 100), Stearyl phosphate (Hostaphat CS 120) from Clariant.

In the present invention, the at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkoylated fatty alcohols can be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 20% by weight, such as from about 0.5% to about 18% by weight, or such as from about 1 % to about 15% by weight, or such as from about 1 .5% to about 12%, or such as from about 2% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 2.25% to about 8% by weight, preferably from about 2.5% to about 6% by weight, and most preferably from about 2.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition as a whole, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

In certain embodiments, the at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from alkoylated fatty alcohols and alkyl(ether)phosphates is selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, and is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 1 %, 2%, 2.25%, o 2.5%, 2.75%, 3%, 3.25%, 3.5%, 3.75%, 4%, 4.25%, 4.5%, 4.75%, 5%, 5.25%, or 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

QUATERNARY AMMONIUM COMPOUND

The compositions according to the present invention may also comprise at least one quaternary ammonium compound. This compound may be in the form of a cationic polymer or in the form of a quaternary ammonium salt.

The quaternary ammonium compound may be chosen from cationic associative polymers comprising, in their structure, a pendent or terminal hydrophobic chain, for example of alkyl or alkenyl type, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The quaternary ammonium compound of the compositions can also be chosen from, for example:

(1 ) homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, examples of which are:

copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,

the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in EP 80 976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules,

quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or acrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for instance GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755, or

alternatively the products known as COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold, for example, under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,

quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP, and crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C-i-C4)alkyltri(Cr C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl acrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, such as methylenebisacrylamide. In at least one embodiment, a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50 percent by weight of the copolymer in mineral oil can be used. This dispersion is sold under the name SALCARE(R) SC 92 by the company Ciba. In some embodiments, a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50 percent by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can be used. These dispersions are sold under the names SALCARE(R) SC 95 and SALCARE(R) SC 96 by the company Ciba.

Other examples are cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the polymers sold under the names JR (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or LR (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation.

(2) copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxy-propylcelluloses grafted, for instance, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. These are sold under the name CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.

(3) non-cellulose cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Such products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR

SET OF CLAIMS

1 . A hair cosmetic composition comprising:

(a) at least one thiol-based compound selected from thiolactic acid, thiolactic acid derivatives, their salts, and mixtures thereof;

(b) optionally, at least one neutralizing agent; and

(c) water;

wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one thiol-based compound is present in an amount of from 1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 .5% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition, according to claim 1 and claim 2, wherein the at least one active agent is selected from thiolactic acid.

4. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one neutralizing agent wherein the at least one neutralizing agent is selected from organic amines, alkali metal hydroxides, alkali earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal phosphates, and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from aminomethyl propanol, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanediol, triisopropanol amine, dimethylstearylamine, dimethyl/tallowamine, lysine, ornithine, arginine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, calcium hydroxide, calcium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least neutralizing agent is selected from aminomethyl propanol and is present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 6.3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 4.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the at least neutralizing agent is selected from sodium hydroxide and is present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 4.1 % by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 3.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein

the at least neutralizing agent is selected from monoethanolamine and is present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 4.1 % by weight, preferably from 0.15% to 3.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fatty substance selected from alkanes, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, hydrocarbons, silicones, non-silicone waxes, mineral oil, vegetable oils, non-silicone synthetic oils, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, mineral oil, hexane, dodecane, isohexadecane, isodecane, sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition, according to the preceding claim, wherein the at least one fatty substance is selected from mineral oil, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition, according to the any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one fatty substance is present in an amount of from 1 % to 80% by weight, preferably from 1 .5% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 55% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

1 1 . The composition, according to claims 8 to 9, wherein the at least one fatty substance comprises from 2% to 45% by weight of mineral oil and from 2% to 20% by weight of fatty alcohol, all weights based on the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl(ether)phosphates, alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof and present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, such as from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 2.25% to 8% by weight, preferably from 2.5% to about 6% by weight, and most preferably from 2.5% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate, Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, Stearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one quaternary ammonium compound and present in an amount of from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 4% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition

15. The composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the at least one quaternary ammonium compound is selected from behentrimoinium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, quaternium-87, quaternium-83, polyquaternium compounds, and mixtures thereof.

16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one silicone compound and present in an amount of from

0.5% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 4% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the at least one silicone compound includes dimethicone copolyol selected from oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane, oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C8-C22) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane, and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, cetyl PEG/PPG- 10/1 dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

18. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one thickening agent selected from thickening polymers comprising at least one sugar unit, for instance nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with C1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, such as scleroglucan gum or xanthan gum, gums derived from plant exudates, such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar gum and carob gum, pectins, alginates, starches, hydroxy(C1 -C6)alkylcelluloses (hydroxyalkyl celluloses), and carboxy(C1 -C6)alkylcelluloses, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from hydroxyalkyl cellulose, such as hydroxyethylcellulose (also known as HEC), hydroxymethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (also known as HPC), hydroxybutylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose (also known as methyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (also known as HPMC), cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition according to claims 18, wherein the at least one thickening agent is present in an amount of from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15%by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pH ranges from 2.5 to 6.5, preferably from 3 to 6, more preferably from 3 to 5, and even more preferably from 3 to 4.

21 . The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

22. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is in the form of a gel.

23. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is used for shaping hair or altering the shape of hair or caring for the hair such as providing manageability, controlling frizz, and volume reduction.

24. A process for shaping hair or altering the shape of hair or caring for the hair, the process comprising the steps of:

(1 ) applying onto hair, a composition according to any one of the preceding claims;

(2) optionally, brushing or combing or smoothing the hair;

(3) heating the hair at a temperature of at least 40°C; while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; and

(4) optionally, rinsing the hair with water.

25. The process according to claim 24, further comprising the step of contacting the hair with a neutralizing composition containing an oxidizing agent.

26. The process according to claim 25, further comprising a step of rinsing the hair with water after contacting the hair the neutralizing composition.

27. The process according to claims 24 to 26, further comprising the step of contacting the hair after step (3) with an intermediate agent selected from a shampoo and/or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water.

28. The process according to claim 24 to 27, wherein the heating step is conducted at a temperature ranging from 50°C - 250°C or ranging from 60°C -230°C or ranging from 60°C - 210°C or ranging from 70°C - 200°C or ranging from 70°C - 190°C.

29. The process according to claim 24 to 28, wherein the heating step is conducted using any one of the following devices: a blow dryer, a flat iron, a hair dryer, a heat lamp, a heat wand, a heating hood, a heating cap, a heating rod, heating curlers/rods or steam curlers; and preferably, a flat iron, a hair dryer, a heat wand, a heat rod, and heating curlers/rods.

30. The process according to any one of claims 24 to 29, wherein step (3) is carried out a temperature of at least 100°C such as from 150°C to 250°C, preferably with a flat iron device.

31 . The process, according to any one of claims 24 to 30, wherein step (1 ) is preceded by one or more of the following: (i) optionally, rinsing the hair with water while optionally applying a smoothing action on the hair; (ii) contacting the hair with a rinse-off composition selected from a shampoo having a neutral pH and a conditioner having a neutral pH; and rinsing the hair with water; and (iii) contacting the hair with a pre-treatment leave-in composition.

32. The process according to any one of claims 24 to 31 , further comprising a step of rinsing the hair with water after step (1 ).

33. The process according to any one of claims 24 to 32, wherein after applying the composition on the hair according to step (1 ), the process further comprises a step of leaving the composition in step (1 ) on the hair for a period of time such as from 1 to 60 minutes or from 1 to 60 minutes or from 5 to 60 minutes or from 5 to 30 minutes before heating the hair according to step (3).

34. The process according to any one of claims 24 to 33, wherein the process imparts to hair one or more of:

(i) straightening effects;

(i) manageability;

(ϋ) frizz control;

(iii) volume reduction or volume control;

(iv) styling effects;

(v) curling effects;

(vi) texlaxing effects;

(vii) improvement or retention of curl definition;

(ϋ) humidity resistance; or

(vi) improvement of the appearance of hair.