COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATINOUS SUBSTRATES
WITH AT LEAST TWO IMMISCIBLE COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims the benefit of the filing
date of United States Provisional Patent Application
No. 60/720,420 filed September 26, 2005, the disclosure of
which is hereby incorporated herein by reference.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] It is well known in the beauty care field that
cosmetic compositions such as mascaras, lipsticks and
foundations provide aesthetic benefits when applied onto the
appropriate keratinous surface. For example, volumization is
a desirable aesthetic benefit for eyelashes and lips in order
to make them appear fuller, whereas transfer resistance, long
wear and/or comfort are important features for lipsticks and
foundations. Unfortunately, these aesthetic benefits are not
always simultaneously achieved through the use of a single
cosmetic product due to the challenge of formulating a
homogeneous composition which satisfies these types of
multiple consumer needs. For instance, a lipstick product with
transfer resistance properties typically does not have good
shine attributes, and vice-versa.
[0003] Thus, a need still exists for a cosmetic system
capable of simultaneously imparting multiple aesthetic
benefits via a single application step system.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0004] The present invention relates to a process for
treating a keratinous substrate involving the steps of:
[0005] (a) providing at least a first composition having a
continuous phase whose major ingredient has a solubility
parameter corresponding to 5;
2

[0006] (b) providing at least a second composition having
a continuous phase whose major ingredient has a solubility
parameter corresponding to 8' ; and
[0007] (c) combining (a) and (b) prior to, or during,
their application onto the keratinous substrate,
[0008] and wherein the difference between 8 and 8' is
greater than 12, greater than 11, greater than 10, greater
than 9, greater than 8, greater than 7, greater than 6,
greater than 5, greater than 4, greater than 3, greater than
2, greater than 1, greater than 0.5, greater than 0, and
wherein the major ingredient is chosen from a hydrophilic
polar material, an organic non-polar material and an inorganic
non-polar material.
[0009] The present invention is also directed to a
cosmetic system capable of imparting multiple aesthetic
benefits onto a keratinous substrate in a single application
comprising a multi-unit receptacle containing:
[0010] (a) at least a first unit comprising a composition
having a continuous phase whose major ingredient has a
solubility parameter corresponding to 8; and
[0011] (b) at least a second unit comprising a composition
having a continuous phase whose major ingredient has a
solubility parameter corresponding to 8' ,
[0012] and wherein the difference between 8 and 8' is
greater than 12, greater than 11, greater than 10, greater
than 9, greater than 8, greater than 7, greater than 6,
greater than 5, greater than 4, greater than 3, greater than
2, greater than 1, greater than 0.5, greater than 0, and
wherein the major ingredient is chosen from a hydrophilic
polar material, an organic non-polar material and an inorganic
non-polar material.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0013] Other than in the operating examples, or where
otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of
3

ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as
being modified in all instances by the term "about".
[0014] The present invention relates to a cosmetic system
and process suitable for treating a keratinous substrate using
a single application-step product. Surprisingly, the inventors
of the present invention have found that it is possible to
create a cosmetic system capable of imparting multiple
aesthetic benefits in a single application step. The essential
components of the cosmetic system are described below. Also
included is a nonexclusive description of various optional and
preferred components useful in embodiments of the present
invention.
[0015] As used herein, "safe and effective amount" means
an amount of a compound, component, or composition (as
applicable) sufficient to significantly induce a positive
effect (e.g., confer a noticeable cosmetic benefit), but low
enough to avoid serious side effects, (e.g., undue toxicity or
allergic reaction), i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to
risk ratio, within the scope of sound medical judgment.
[0016] As used herein, "cosmetic system" means any color
cosmetic or skin care product. "Cosmetic systems" include, but
are not limited to, products that leave color on the face,
including make-up, liquid foundation, mascara, concealers, eye
liners, brow colors, eye shadows, blushers, lip sticks, lip
balms, face powders, solid emulsion foundations, powder
foundations, and the like. The term "foundation" refers to
liquid, cream, mousse, pancake, compact, concealer or like
product created or reintroduced by cosmetic companies to even
out the overall coloring of the skin. Additionally, "cosmetic
systems" may include moisturizers, sunscreen products, self-
tanning products, antiperspirant compositions, shaving creams,
and skin cleansers.
[0017] The term "continuous phase" can have either its
ordinary meaning in the art, as in the case of a composition
4

which is a dispersion/suspension, or an aqueous emulsion, or a
non-aqueous emulsion, or can refer to the sole phase, as in
the case of a composition having a single phase.
[0018] The term "major ingredient" refers to the
hydrophilic polar liquid, organic oil or inorganic oil present
in the highest concentration.
[00191 Herein, "comprising" means that other steps and
other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be
added. This term encompasses the terms "consisting of" and
"consisting essentially of". The products, compositions, and
methods/processes of the present invention can comprise,
consist of, and consist essentially of the essential elements
and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as
any of the additional or' optional ingredients, components/
steps, or limitations described herein.
[0020] All percentages, parts, and ratios are based upon
the total weight of the compositions of the present invention,-
unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain
to listed ingredients are based on the active level and,
therefore, do not include solvents or by-products that may be
included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise
specified. The term "weight percent" may be denoted as "wt. %"
herein.
[0021] All measurements made are at 25°C, unless otherwise
designated.
[0022] The present invention involves the use of at least
two compositions, each of which having a continuous phase
whose major ingredient is substantially incompatible with its
counterpart such that when the at least two compositions are
combined, their respective continuous phases are substantially
incompatible with one another.
[0023] In order to determine whether the continuous phase
of one composition is substantially incompatible with the
continuous phase of another composition, the solubility
5

parameter of each major ingredient present in its respective
continuous phase must first be determined. Once the
solubility parameter of each major ingx-edient is identified,
the difference between the solubility parameters of the major
ingredients is then calculated in order to determine whether
the continuous phases are substantially incompatible.
[0024] According to the present invention, continuous
phases are deemed to be substantially incompatible if the
difference between the solubility parameters of the major
ingredients present in their respective continuous phases is
greater than 12, preferably greater than 11, more preferably
greater than 10, more preferably greater than 9, more
preferably greater than 8, more preferably greater than 7,
more preferably greater than 6, more preferably greater than
5, more preferably greater than 4, more preferably greater
than 3, more preferably greater than 2, more preferably
greater than 1, more preferably greater than 0.5, and most
preferably greater than 0. Solubility parameters 5 and 8' are
determined according to the Hansen solubility space as defined
in the article "Solubility Parameter Values" by Eric A. Grulke
in the work "Polymer Handbook, " 3rd edition, Chapter VII,
pages 519-559, the entire content of which is hereby
incorporated by reference, by the relationship:
[0025] 5 (or 8') =( dD2 + dp2 + dH2)1/2 , in which:
[0026] - dD characterizes the London dispersion forces
resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during
molecular impacts,
[0027] - dp characterizes the forces of Debye interactions
between permanent dipoles,
[0028] - dH characterizes the forces of specific
interactions (hydrogen bond, acid/base or donor/acceptor type
and the like) . The definition of the solvents in the three-
dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is given in
the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility
6

parameters," J. Paint Technol., 39, 105(1967), the entire
content of which is hereby incorporated by reference,
[0029] 1. Hydrophilic Polar Materials
[0030] Examples of hydrophilic polar materials include,
but are not limited to, water, alcohols, polyols, and the
like.
[0031] More specific examples of hydrophilic polar
materials useful herein include, but are not limited to,
materials such as urea; guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolate
salts (e.g. ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); lactic
acid and lactate salts (e.g. ammonium and quaternary alkyl
ammonium); aloe vera in any of its variety of forms (e.g.,
aloe vera gel); polyhydroxy alcohols such as sorbitol,
glycerol, hexanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene. glycol,
hexylene glycol, and the like; polyethylene glycol; sugars and
starches; sugar and starch derivatives (e.g., alkoxylated
glucose); hyaluronic acid; chitin, starch-grafted sodium
polyacrylates such as SanwetR™ IM-1000, IM-1500, and IM-2500-
(available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials); lactamide
monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine; propoxylated
glycerol (as described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,976,953); and
mixtures thereof.
[0032] 2. Organic Non-Polar Materials:
[0033] Nonlimiting examples of suitable organic non-polar
materials include, but are not limited to:
[0034] (1) Mineral oil, which is also known as petrolatum
liquid, is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons obtained from
petroleum. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Entry 7048, p.
1033 (1983) and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,
Fifth Edition, vol. 1, p. 415-417 (1993).
[0035] (2) Petrolatum, which is also known as petroleum
jelly, is a colloidal system of nonstraight-chain solid
hydrocarbons and high-boiling liquid hydrocarbons, in which
most of the liquid hydrocarbons are held inside the micelles.
7

See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Entry 7047, p. 1033
(1983); Schindler, Drug. Cosmet. Ind., 89, 36-37, 76, 78-80,
82 (1961); and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,
Fifth Edition, vol. 1, p. 537 (1993).
[0036] (3) Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having
from about 7 to about 4 0 carbon atoms. Nonlimiting examples of
these hydrocarbon materials include dodecane, isododecane,
squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene,
polybutene, polydecene, docosane (i.e. a C22 hydrocarbon),
hexadecane, isohexadecane (a commercially available
hydrocarbon sold as PermethylR™ 101A by Presperse) . Also
useful are the C7-C4o isoparaffins, which are C7-C40 branched
hydrocarbons.
[0037] (4) Ci-C30 alcohol esters of Ci-C30 carboxylic acids
and of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, including straight and
branched chain materials as well as aromatic derivatives (as
used herein in reference to the hydrophobic component, mono-.
and poly-carboxylic acids include straight chain, branched
chain and aryl carboxylic acids). Nonlimiting examples include
diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl
myristate, isopropyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, myristyl
propionate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate,
di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl myristate,
stearyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, methyl stearate, cetyl
stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl sebacate,
diisopropyl adipate, cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl dilinoleate.
[0038] (5) mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of Ci-C30
carboxylic acids, e.g., caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-6
caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-8 caprylic/capric
triglyceride.
[0039] (6) alkylene glycol esters of C1-C3 0 carboxylic
acids, e.g., ethylene glycol mono- and di-esters, and
propylene glycol mono- and di-esters of C1-C30 carboxylic
acids e.g., ethylene glycol distearate.
8

[0040] (7) propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives of the
foregoing materials.
[0041] (8) Ci-C30 mono- and poly-esters of sugars and
related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or
polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties.
Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can
be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature.
Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, the
glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated),
the mannose tetraesters of. mixed soybean oil fatty acids, the
galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, the arabinose tetraesters
of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose
pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, the sorbitol hexaesters of
unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate,
sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate,
sucrose heptatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures
thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester1.
in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate'
and arachidate in a 1:2 molar ratio; the octaester of
raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are
linoleate and behenate in a 1:3 molar ratio; the heptaester of.
maltose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are
sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3:4 molar
ratio; the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying
carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2:6
molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the
esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate
and behenate in a 1:3:4 molar ratio. A preferred solid
material is sucrose polyester in which the degree of
esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties
are C18 mono-and/or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar
ratio of unsaturates:behenic of 1:7 to 3:5. A particularly
preferred solid sugar polyester is the octaester of sucrose in
which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about
9

1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. Other materials include
cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose.
The ester materials are further described in U.S. Pat. No.
2,831,854; U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,196; U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,195;
U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,516; U.S. Pat. No. ■ 5,306,515; U.S. Pat.
No. 5,305,514; U.S. Pat. No. 4,797,300; U.S. Pat. No.
3,963,699; U.S. Pat. No. 4,518,772; and U.S. Pat. No.
4,517,360.
[0042] (9) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils.
Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils
include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed
oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil,
soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine
oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated safflower
oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil,
hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden oil/
hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil,
hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil,
hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil,
hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil,
hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] (10) Animal fats and oils (e.g., lanolin and
derivatives thereof, cod liver oil).
[0044] (11) Fluorine-containing hydrocarbon fluids.
Examples include but are not limited to, hydrofluoroethers
from 3M Corporation, and perfluoropolyethers (Fomblin series
manufactured by Montefluos, Demnum series manufactured by
Daikin Industries and Krytox series manufactured by DuPont
Corporation).
[0045] (12) Also useful are C4-C20 alkyl ethers of
polypropylene glycols, Ci-C2o carboxylic acid esters of
polypropylene glycols, and di-C8-C30 alkyl ethers. Nonlimiting
examples of these materials include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15
10

stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and
mixtures thereof.
[0046] 3. Inorganic Non-Polar Materials:
[0047] Nonlimiting examples of suitable inorganic non-
polar materials include, but are not limited to,:
[0048] Organopolysiloxane oils. Nonlimiting examples of
suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,069,897.
Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane oils include
polyalkylsiloxanes, cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, . and
polyalkylarylsiloxanes.
[0049] Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the composition herein
include polyalkylsiloxanes with viscosities of from about 0.5
to about 1,000,000 centistokes at 25°. C. Such
polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical
formula R3SiO [R2SiO] xSiR3 wherein R is an alkyl group having
from about 1 to about 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl,
or ethyl, more preferably methyl; also mixed alkyl groups can
be used in the same molecule) , and x is an integer of from
about 0 to about 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired
molecular weight which can range to over about 10,000,000..
Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include the
polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones,
examples of which include the VicasilR™ series sold by General
Electric Company and the Dow CorningR™ series sold by Dow
Corning Corporation. Specific examples of suitable
polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow CorningR™ 200 fluid having a
viscosity of 0.65 centistokes and a boiling point of 100° C. ,
Dow CorningR™ 225 fluid having a viscosity of 10 centistokes
and a boiling point greater than 200° C. , and Dow Corning11™ 200
fluids having viscosities of 50, 350, and 12,500 centistokes,
respectively, and boiling points greater than 200° C.Suitable
dimethicones include those represented by the chemical formula
(CH3)3SiO[ (CH3)2SiOx[CH3RSiO]ySi(CH3)3 wherein R is straight or
branched chain alkyl having from about 2 to about 3 0 carbon
11

atoms and x and y are each integers of 1 or greater selected
to achieve the desired molecular weight which can range to
over about 10,000,000. Examples of these alkyl-substituted
dimethicones include cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone.
[0050] Cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for use in the
composition include those represented by the chemical formula
[SiR2-Ojn wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl
or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and n is an integer from
about 3 to about 8, more preferably n is an integer from about
3 to about 7, and even more preferably n is an integer from
about 4 to about 6. When R is methyl, these materials are
typically referred to as cyclomethicones. Commercially
available cyclomethicones include Dow CorningR™ 244 fluid
having a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes, and a boiling point of
172° C, which primarily contains the cyclomethicone tetramer
(i.e. n=4) , Dow CorningR™ 344 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5
centistokes and a boiling point of 178° C. , which primarily
contains the cyclomethicone pentamer (i.e. n=5), Dow Corning8™
245 fluid having a viscosity of 4.2 centistokes and a boiling
point of 205° C. , which primarily contains a mixture of the
cyclomethicone tetramer and pentamer (i.e. n=4 and 5), and Dow
CorningR™ 345 fluid having a viscosity of 4.5 centistokes and
a boiling point of 217° C, which primarily contains a mixture
of the cyclomethicone tetramer, pentamer, and hexamer (i.e.
n=4, 5, and 6) .
[0051] Dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the
composition. These compounds can be represented by the
chemical formulas R3SiO [R2SiO]xSiR2OH and HOR2SiO [R2SiO]xSiR2OH
wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably. R is methyl or ethyl,
more preferably methyl) and x is an integer from 0 to about
500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight.
Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as
mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g. Dow
Corning.R™ 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids).
12

[0052] Polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use
in the composition. A particularly preferred polyalkylaryl
siloxane for use in the present invention is a
trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane.
[0053] Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes
selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes,
alkyl substituted dimethicones, cyclomethicones,
trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl
siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein
are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Preferred among
the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones.
[0054] OPTIONAL INGREDIENTS
[0 055] A. Colorants
[0056] The cosmetic system may further comprise a
colorant. Suitable colorants include, but are not limited to,
D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Red No. 36, FD&C Red No. 4, D&C Orange
No. 4, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 34, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C
Red No. 33, FD&C Yellow No. 5, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Red No.
17, FD&C Green No. 3, D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C
Orange No. 5, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 28,
D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Violet No. 2, Ext.
D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Red
No. 30, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Red No. 7, FD&C Blue No. 1, D&C
Yellow No. 7, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Red No.
31, FD&C Red No. 40, D&C Yellow No. 11, Annatto extract,
.beta. carotene, guanine, carmine, aluminum powder,
ultramarines, bismuth oxychloride, chromium oxide green,
chromium hydroxide green, iron oxides, ferric ferrocyanide,
manganese violet, titanium dioxide, titanated mica (i.e., mica
coated with titanium dioxide), iron oxide titanated mica, zinc
oxide, caramel coloring, mica, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide,
dihydroxyacetone, guaiazulene, pyrophyllite, bronze powder,
copper powder, aluminum stearate, calcium stearate,
lactofavin, magnesium stearate, zinc stearate,
13

capsanthin/capsorubin, bentonite, barium sulfate, calcium
carbonate, calcium sulfate, carbon black, magnesium carbonate,
magnesium silicate, colored silica, silica (including
spherical silica, hydrated silica and silica beads), CI 10020,
CI 11680, CI 15630, CI 15865, CI 16185, CI 16255, CI 16255, CI
45430, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 73015, CI 74160, CI 75100, CI
77002, CI 77346, CI 77480, nylon powder, polyethylene powder,
ethylene acrylates copolymer powder, methacrylate powder,
polystyrene powder, silk powder, crystalline cellulose,
starch, bismuth oxychloride, guanine, kaolin, chalk,
diatomaceous earth, microsponges, boron nitride and the like.
Additionally, lakes or composites of these colorants may also
be used. Additional colorants, pigments, and powders useful
herein are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,505,937.
[0057] B. Film Forming Agent
[0058] The cosmetic system may further comprise a film-
forming agent. Preferably, the compositions comprise from
greater than 0% to 20%, more preferably, from 0.05% to 10%,
and even more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, by weight of the
composition, of the film-forming agent.
[0059] Examples of suitable film forming agents useful in
the compositions of the present kit include:
[0060] a) sulfopolyester resins, such as AQ sulfopolyester
resins, such as AQ29D, AQ35S, AQ38D, AQ38S, AQ48S, and AQ55S
(available from Eastman Chemicals);
[0061] b) polyvinylacetate/polyvinyl alcohol polymers,
such as Vinex resins available from Air Products, including
Vinex 2034, Vinex 2144, and Vinex 2019;
[0062] c) acrylic resins, including water dispersible
acrylic resins available from National Starch under the trade
name "Dermacryl", including Dermacryl LT;
[0063] d) polyvinylpyrrolidones (PVP), including Luviskol
K17, K30 and K90 (available from BASF), water soluble
copolymers of PVP, including PVP/VA S-630 and W-735 and
14

PVP/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymers such as
Copolymer 845 and Copolymer 937 available from ISP, as well as
other PVP polymers disclosed by E. S. Barabas in the
Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, 2 Ed., Vol.
17, pp. 198-257;
[0064] e) high molecular weight silicones such as
dimethicone and organic-substituted dimethicones, especially
those with viscosities of greater than about 50,000 mPas;
[0065] f) high molecular weight hydrocarbon polymers with
viscosities of greater than about 50,000 mPas;
[0066] g) silicone-acrylate copolymers, including VS-70
(3M), SA-70 (3M), KP-545 (Shin-Etsu)
[0067] h) organosiloxanes, including organosiloxane
resins, fluid diorganopolysiloxane polymers and silicone ester
waxes;
[0068] i) polyurethanes, including Polyderm series of
polymers from Alzo, Corp.; and
[0069] j) hydrophobic acrylate copolymers, including the
acrylate/alkylmethacrylate copolymer Lipacryl (Rohm & Haas) or
its emulsified, water dispersible version Allianz OPT (ISP).
[007 0] Examples of these polymers and cosmetic
compositions containing them are found in PCT publication Nos.
W096/33689, WO97/17058; and U.S. Pat. No. 5,505,937.
Additional film forming polymers suitable for use herein
include the water-insoluble polymer materials in aqueous
emulsion and water soluble film forming polymers described in
PCT publication No. W098/18431. Examples of high molecular
weight hydrocarbon polymers with viscosities of greater than
about 50,000 mPas include polybutene, polybutene
terephthalate, polydecene, polycyclopentadiene, and similar
linear and branched high molecular weight hydrocarbons.
[0071] Suitable film forming polymers also include
organosiloxane resins comprising combinations of R3Si01/2 "M"
units, R2SiO "D" units, RSi03/2 "T" units, Si02 "Q" units in
15

ratios to each other that satisfy the relationship RnSiO)4-n)/2
where n is a value between 1.0 and 1.50 and R is a methyl
group. Note that a small amount, up to 5%, of silanol or
alkoxy functionality may also be present in the resin
structure as a result of processing. The organosiloxane resins
must be solid at about 25° C. and have a molecular weight range
of from about 1,000 to about 10,000 grams/mole. The resin is
soluble in organic solvents such as toluene, xylene,
isoparaffins, and cyclosiloxanes or the volatile carrier,
indicating that the resin is not sufficiently crosslinked such
that the resin is insoluble in the volatile carrier.
Particularly preferred are resins comprising repeating
monofunctional or R3SiOi/2 "M" units and the quadrafunctional or
Si02 "Q" units, otherwise known as "MQ" resins as disclosed in
U.S. Pat. No. 5,330,747. In the present invention the ratio of
the "M" to "Q" functional units is preferably about 0.7 and
the value of n is 1.2. Organosiloxane resins such as these are
commercially available such as Wacker 803 and 804 available
from Wacker Silicones Corporation, and G.E. 117 0-002 from the
General Electric Company.
[0072] Other suitable silicone film formers may include
polyalkylsilsesquioxanes such as, for example,
polymethylsilsesquioxane (Resin MK from Wacker) and
polypropylsilsesquioxane (DC670 from Dow Corning).
[0073] Other materials for enhancing wear or transfer
resistance include trimethylated silica. Suitable silicas of
this type and cosmetic compositions containing them are
described in U.S,. Pat. No. 5,800,816.
[0074] C. Absorbents
[0075] The compositions of the present invention may
comprise one or more absorbent materials. These absorbents are
useful for achieving the uptake of various fluids that are
commonly present on the skin, e.g., perspiration, oil, and/or
sebum. Suitable absorbents include, but are not limited to,
16

silicas, silicates, polyacrylates, cross-linked silicones,,
cross-linked hydrocarbons, activated carbon, starch-based
materials (for example cornstarch (topical starch), talc, rice
starch, oat starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, legume
starches, soy starch, turnip starch), microcrystalline
cellulose (for example AvicelRTM) , aluminum starch octenyl
succinate (sold by National Starch & Chemical Co. as Dry FloR™
Pure, Dry FloR™ XT, Dry FloR™ PC, and/or Dry FloR™ AF
(aluminum free grade)), kaolin, calcium silicate, amorphous
silicas, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, or zinc
carbonate, and mixtures thereof. Some specific examples of the
silicates and carbonates useful in the present invention are
more fully explained in Van Nostrand Reinhold's Encyclopedia
of Chemistry. 4th Ed. pages 155, 169,556, and 849, (1984).
[0076] D. Anti-Acne Actives
[0077] Examples of useful anti-acne actives of the present
invention include, but are not limited to, the keratolytics
such as' salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of
salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, and
resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its
derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L
amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly
their N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example of which is N-
acetyl-L-cysteine; lipoic acid; antibiotics and antimicrobials
such as benzoyl peroxide, octopirox, tetracycline,- 2,4,4'-
trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide,
azelaic acid and its derivatives, phenoxyethanol,
phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, ethyl acetate,
clindamycin and meclocycline; sebostats such as flavonoids;
and bile salts such as scymnol sulfate and its derivatives,
deoxycholate, and cholate.
[0078] E. Antiperspirant Actives
[0079] Antiperspirant actives may also be included in the
compositions of the present invention. Suitable antiperspirant
17

actives include astringent metallic salts, especially the
inorganic and organic salts of aluminum zirconium and zinc, as
well as mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are the
aluminum containing and/or zirconium-containing materials or
salts, such as aluminum halides, aluminum chlorohydrate,
aluminum hydroxyhalides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl
hydroxyhalides, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] F. Anti-Wrinkle and Anti-Skin Atrophy Actives
[0081] Examples of anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy
actives useful in the present invention include, but are not
limited to, retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and
trans); retinol; • retinyl esters,- niacinamide, and derivatives
thereof; sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their
derivatives and salts, particularly the N-acetyl derivatives,
a preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols
(e.g., ethane thiol); terpene alcohols (e.g., farnesol);
hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic
acid, alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g., lactic acid and glycolic .
acid), beta-hydroxy acids (e.g., salicylic acid), and skin
peel agents (e.g., phenol and the like).
[0082] G. Artificial Tanning Actives and Accelerators
[0083] Examples of artificial tanning actives and
accelerators useful in the compositions of the present
invention include, but are not limited to, dihydroxyacetaone,
tyrosine, tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate, phospho-
DOPA, and mixtures thereof.
[0084] H. Astringents
[0085] The compositions of the present invention may
include astringents. Astringents are useful for shrinking
pores of the skin. Suitable astringents include, but are not
limited to, clove oil, fomes officinalis extract, spiraea
ulmaria extract, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol,
menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate, aluminum salts,
tannins, ethanol, and combinations thereof.
18

[0086] I. Hydrophilic Conditioning Agents
[0087] The present invention can also comprise or more
hydrophilic conditioning agents. Nonlimiting examples of
hydrophilic conditioning agents include those selected from
the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, polypropylene
glycols, polyethylene glycols, ureas, pyrolidone carboxylic
acids, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated C3-C6 diols and triols,
alpha-hydroxy C2-C6 carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and/or
propoxylated sugars, polyacrylic acid copolymers, sugars
having up to about 12 carbons atoms, sugar alcohols having up
to about 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Specific
examples of useful hydrophilic conditioning agent's include
materials such as urea; guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolate
salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); lactic
acid and lactate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkyl
ammonium); sucrose, fructose, glucose, eruthrose, erythritol,
sorbitol, mannitol, glycerol, hexanetriol, propylene glycol,
butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and the like; polyethylene
glycols such as PEG-2, PEG-3, PEG-30, PEG-50, polypropylene
glycols such as PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17, PPG-20, PPG-26,
PPG-30, PPG-34,; alkoxylated glucose; hyaluronic acid; cationic
skin conditioning polymers (e.g., quaternary ammonium polymers
such as Polyquaternium polymers); and mixtures thereof.
Glycerol, in particular, is a preferred hydrophilic
conditioning agent in the present invention. Also useful are
materials such as aloe vera in a variety of forms (e.g., aloe
vera gel), chitosan and chitosan derivatives (e.g., chitosan
lactate, lactamide monoethanolamine); acetamide
monoethanolamine; and mixtures thereof. Also useful are
propoxylated glycerols as described in propoxylated glycerols
described in U.S. Pat. No.4,976, 953.
[0088] J. Hydrophobic Conditioning Agents
[0089] The composition may comprise one or more
hydrophobic. conditioning agents. Preferred hydrophobic
19

conditioning agents are selected from the group consisting of
mineral oil, petrolatum, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin,
lanolin, lanolin derivatives, C7-C40 branched chain
hydrocarbons, Ci-C30 alcohol esters of Ci-C30 carboxylic acids,
Ci-C30 alcohol esters of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids,
monoglycerides of Ci-C30 carboxylic acids, diglycerides of Cx-
C30 carboxylic acids, triglycerides of Ci-C30 carboxylic acids,
ethylene glycol monoesters of Ci-Cso carboxylic acids, ethylene
glycol diesters of C!-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol
monoesters of Ci-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol
diesters of Ci-Cso carboxylic acids, C;i.-C3o carboxylic acid
monoesters and polyesters of sugars, polydialkylsiloxanes,
polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, cyclomethicones
having 3 to 9 silicone atoms, vegetable oils, hydrogenated
vegetable oils, polypropylene glycol C4-C2o alkyl ethers, di C8-
C30 alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.
[0090] K. Light Diffusers
[0091] The compositions may comprise a light diffuser.
Light diffusers are useful for improving skin appearance by
minimizing the appearance of texture such as pores and fine
lines. Suitable light diffusers for inclusion into the
compositions of the present system include, but are not
limited to silica, nylon, polyethylene, polymethyl
methacrylate, polystyrene, methylsiloxane copolymer,
polytetrafluoroethylene copolymer, boron nitride, silicone
resin powders, silicone rubber powders, ethylene acrylate
copolymers, mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zinc oxide,
and combinations thereof.
[0092] L. Oil-soluble Polymeric Gelling Agents
[0093] The compositions of the present invention may
optionally comprise one or more polymeric materials that are
oil-soluble and form a gel with hydrophobic materials (e.g.,
oils) that are contained in the compositions. Such polymers
20

are beneficial for structuring these materials resulting in
flexible gels with improved stability and shear-resistance.
[0094] Particularly suitable are at least partially cross-
linked oil-soluble polymeric materials with a softening point
<160° C. Suitable materials come from the chemical groups of PE
(polyethylenes), PVA (polyvinyl alcohols) and derivatives, PVP
(polyvinylpyrrolidones) and derivatives, PVP/Alkene
Copolymers, PVP/VA copolymers, PVM/MA (methyl vinyl
ether/maleic anhydride) copolymers and their esters and
ethers, particularly poly (alkyl vinyl ether-co-maleic
anhydride) copolymers, ethylene/VA copolymers, acrylates/alkyl
. methacrylate copolymer, styrene/isoprene,
styrene/ethylene/butylene, styrene/ethylene/propylene,
styrene/ethylene/butylene/styrene, styrene/butadiene
copolymers, benotnite clays, hectorite clays, organix waxes
and silicone waxes. Suitable materials are available e.g. from
Dupont (ELVAXR™ types), BASF (LUVISKOLR™ types), Shell
(KRATONR™ polymers), ISP (PVP, GANTREZR™, GANEXR™ and ALLIANZ
OPTRTM types) and Ronm & Haaa (LIPACRYLR™) .
[0095] M. Hydrophilic Gelling Agent
, [0096] The compositions of the invention may optionally
contain a hydrophilic gelling agent. The gelling agent
preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20° C. ,
Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4 000 mPas, more preferably
at least about 10,000 mPas and even more preferably at least
5 0,000 mPas.
[0097] Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally
be described as water-soluble or colloidally water-soluble
polymers, and include cellulose e theirs (e.g. hydroxyethyl
cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose),
bentonite clays, hectorite clays, polyvinylpyrrolidone,
polyvinylalcohol, polyquaternium-10, guar gum, hydroxypropyl
guar gum, and xanthan gum.
21

[0098] Among suitable hydrophilic gelling agents are
acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carboxyvinyl
polymers sold by the B. F. Goodrich Company under the
trademark of Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially
of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether
crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from
about 0.75% to about 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as for
example polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol.
Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950,
Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a
water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about
1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about
5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for
use herein are hydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymers
of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties available under
the Trade Name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1
(CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crosspolymer). A combination of the polyalkenyl polyether
cross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically
modified cross-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable
for use herein. Other suitable gelling agents suitable for use
herein are oleogels such as trihydroxystearin and aluminium
magnesium hydroxy stearate. The gelling agents herein are
particularly valuable for providing excellent stability
characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.
[0099] Neutralizing agents suitable for use in
neutralizing acidic group containing hydrophilic gelling
agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide,
ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and
triethanolamine.
[0100] N. Crosslinked Silicone Polymers
[0101] The composition of the present invention may
optionally include a polymer that is non-linear in nature.
Suitable polymers for inclusion in the claimed compositions
22

include, but are not limited to polysiloxanes that are
crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer gel networks. For
instance, particularly well-suited crosslinked
organopolysiloxane polymer gel networks are formed from
polymerization of an epoxy functional organosiloxane in the
presence of an acid catalyst. The organopolysiloxane polymer
is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer gel network
selected from non-emulsifying polymer gel networks,
emulsifying polymer gel networks, and combinations thereof.
Specific examples of such are described in U.S. Pat. No.
6,531,540 Bl, U.S. • Pat. No. 6,538,061 B2, U.S. Pat. No.
6,444,745 Bl, U.S. Pat. No. 6,346,533 Bl, U.S.' Pat.- No.
5,654,362, U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, U.S. Pat. No. 5,880,210,
U.S. Pat. No. 5,889,108, U.S. Pat. No. 5,929,164, U.S. Pat.
No. 5,948,855, U.S. Pat. No. 5,969,035, U.S. Pat. No.
5,977,280, U*.S. Pat. No. 6,080,394, U.S. Pat. No. 6,168,782,
U.S. Pat. No. 6,177,071, U.S. Pat. No. 6,200,581,■ U.S. Pat.
No. 6,207,717, U.S. Pat. No. 6,221,927, U.S. Pat. No.
6,221,979, U.S. Pat. No. 6/238,657, and U.S. Pat. No.
4,987,169.
[0102] Suitable organopolysiloxane polymer network powders-
include vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane
crosspolymers like Shin-Etsu's KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-
103, KSP-104, KSP-105, hybrid silicone powders that contain a
fluoroalkyl group like Shin-Etsu's KSP-200, and hybrid
silicone powders that contain a phenyl group such as Shin-
Etsu's KSP-3 00; and Dow Coming's DC 9506.
[0103] Preferred organopolysiloxane compositions are
dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers. Such
dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers are supplied by a
variety of suppliers including Dow Corning (DC 904 0 and DC
9041), General Electric (Velvesil 125), General Electric (SFE
839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16, 18 [dimethicone/phenyl vinyl
dimethicone crosspolymer] and KSG-21 [dimethicone copolyol
23

crosspolymer] ), Grant Industries (Gransil.TM. line of
materials), lauryl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers
supplied by Shin Etsu (e.g., KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-
44) , lauryl dimethicone/dimethicone copolyol crosspolymers
also supplied by Shin-Etsu (e.g., KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, and
KSG-34), and Wacker (Belsil RG-100) Additional polymers from
Shin-Etsu which are suitable for use in the present invention
include KSG-210, -310, -320, -330, and -340. Crosslinked
organopolysiloxane polymer gel networks useful in the present
invention and processes for making them are further described
in U.S. Pat. No. 4,970,252; U.S. Pat. No. 5,760,116; U.S. Pat.
No. 5,654,362; and Japanese Patent Application JP 61-18708.
[0104] O. Sunscreen Actives
[0105] The cosmetic compositions of this invention may also
contain sunscreens, which are chemical absorbers that actually
absorb harmful ultraviolet radiation. It is well known that
chemical absorbers are classified, depending on the type of
radiation they protect against, as either UV-A or UV-B
absorbers. UV-A absorbers generally absorb radiation in the
320 to 400 nm region of the ultraviolet spectrum. UV-A
absorbers include anthranilates, benzophenones, and dibenzoyl
methanes. UV-B absorbers generally absorb radiation in the
280 to 320 nm region of the ultraviolet spectrum. UV-B
absorbers include p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, camphor
derivatives, cinnamates, and salicylates.
[0106] Classifying the chemical absorbers generally as UV-A
or UV-B absorbers is accepted within the industry. However, a
more precise classification is one based upon the chemical
properties of the sunscreens. There are eight major
classifications of sunscreen chemical properties, and that are
discussed at length in "Sunscreens - Development, Evaluation
and Regulatory Aspects," by N. Shaath et al. , 2nd. Edition,
pages 269-273, Marcel Dekker, Inc. (1997) .
24-

[0107] The sunscreens useful in the present invention
typically comprise chemical absorbers, but may also comprise
physical blockers. Exemplary sunscreens which may be
formulated into the compositions of the present invention are
chemical absorbers such as p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives,
anthranilates, benzophenones, camphor derivatives, cinnamic
derivatives, dibenzoyl methanes (such as avobenzone also known
as Parsol 1789), diphenylacrylate derivatives, salicylic
derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzimidazole compounds,
bis-benzoazolyl derivatives, methylene bis-
(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, the sunscreen polymers
and silicones, or mixtures thereof. These are variously
described in U.S. Patents 2,463,264, 4,367,390, 5,166,355 and
5,237,071 and in EP 863,145, EP 517,104, EP 570,838, EP
796,851, EP 775,698, EP 878,469, EP 933,376, EP 893,119, EP
669,323, GB 2,303,549, DE 1,972,184 and WO 93/04665, the
entire contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
Also exemplary of the sunscreens which may be formulated into
the compositions of this invention are physical blockers such
as cerium oxides, chromium oxides, cobalt oxides, iron oxides,
red petrolatum, silicone-treated titanium dioxide, titanium
dioxide, zinc oxide, and/or zirconium oxide, or mixtures
thereof.
[0108] A wide variety of sunscreens is described in U.S.
Patents 5,087,445; 5,073,372; and Chapter VIII of Cosmetics
and Science and Technology (1957) by Segarin et al., pages 189
e.t seq, the entire contents of each of which are hereby
incorporated by reference.
[0109] Examples of suitable sunscreens include, but are not
limited to: aminobenzoic acid, amyldimethyl PABA, cinoxate,
diethanolamine p-methoxycinnamate, digalloyl trioleate,
dioxybenzone, 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl 4-
bis(hydroxypropyl)aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-
diphenylacrylate, ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl
25

salicylate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, homomenthyl salicylate,
homosalate, 3-imidazol-4-ylacrylic acid and ethyl ester,
methyl anthranilate, octyldimethyl PABA, 2-
phenylbenziraidazole-5-sulfonic acid and salts, red petrolattam,
sulisobenzone, titanium dioxide, triethanolamine salicylate,
N, N, N-trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene methyl)anillinium
methyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0110] Sunscreens active in the UV-A and/or UV-B range can
also include, but are not limited to:
[0111] p-aminobenzoic acid,
[0112] oxyethylene (25 mol) p-aminobenzoate,
[0113] 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate,
[0114] ethyl N-oxypropylene p-aminobenzoate,
[0115] glycerol p-aminobenzoate,
[0116] 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate,
[0117] 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate,
[0118] methyl diisopropylcinnamate,
[0119] isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate,
[0120] diethanolamine 4-methoxycinnamate,
[0121] 3- (4 • -trimethylammonium) -benzyliden-boman-2-one
methylsulfate,
[0122] 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,
[0123] 2-hydroxy-4 -methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate,
[0124] 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone,
[0125] 2,2",4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone,
[0126] 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'dimethoxybenzophenone,
[0127] 2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone,
[0128] 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methoxybenzophenone,
[0129] -(2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)-tolyl-4-sulfonic acid and
soluble salts thereof,
[0130] 3-(4'-sulfo)benzyliden-bornan-2-one and soluble
salts thereof,
[0131] 3-(4'methylbenzylidene)-d,1-camphor,
[0132] 3-benzylidene-d,1-camphor,
26

[0133] benzene 1,4-di(3-raethylidene-10-camphosulfonic) acid
and salts thereof (the product Mexoryl SX described in U.S.
Patent 4,585,597,
[0134] urocanic acid,
[0135] 2,4,6-tris[p-(21-ethylhexyl-1•-oxycarbonyl)-
anilino]-1,3,5-triazine,
[0136] 2- [{p-(tertiobutylamido)anilino]-4,6-bis-[(p-(2■-
ethylhexyl-1'-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine,
[0137] 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)]-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-
(4 - me thoxy-phenyl)-1,3,5-triazine ("TINOSORB S" marketed by
Ciba),
[0138] the polymer of N-(2 et 4) - [ (2-oxobom-3-
yliden) methyl] benzyl] -acrylamide,
[0139] l,4-bisbenzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-
tetrasulfonic acid and salts thereof,
[0140] the benzalmalonate-substituted polyorganosiloxanes,
[0141] the benzotriazole-substituted polyorganosiloxanes
(Drometrizole Trisiloxane) ,
[0142] dispersed 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-
yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] such as that marketed
under the trademark MIXXIM BB/100 by Fairmount Chemical, or
micronized in dispersed form thereof such as that were
marketed under the trademark TINOSORB M by Ciba Specialty
Chemicals Corp. (Tarrytown, NY) , and
[0143] solubilized 2,2'-methylene-bis-[6-(2H-benzotriazol-
2-yl)-4-(methyl)phenol] such as that marketed under the
trademark MIXXIM BB/200 by Fairmount Chemical.
[0144] Typically combinations of one of more of these
sunscreens are used.
[0145] The dibenzoyl methane derivatives other than
avobenzone are described, for example, in FR 2,326,405, FR
2,440,933 and EP 114,607.
[014 6] Other dibenzoyl methane sunscreens other than
avobenzone include (whether singly or in any combination):■
27

[0147] 2-methyldibenzoylmethane
[014 8] 4-methyldibenzoylmethane
[0149] 4 -i sopropyldibenzoylmethane
[0150] 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane
[0151] 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane
[0152] 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane
[0153] 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane
[0154] 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane
[0155] 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane
[0156] 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane
[0157] 2,4-dimethyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane
[0158] 2,S-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane
[0159] Additional sunscreens that can be used are described
in pages 2954-2955 of the International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002).. Exact amounts of
sunscreens that can be employed will vary depending upon the
sunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
to be achieved. SPF is a commonly used measure of
photoprotection of a sunscreen against erythema.
[0160] P. Additional Optional Ingredients
[0161] The compositions of the present invention may also
include ingredients classified as desquamating agents, skin
lightening agents, skin soothing and skin healing actives,
vitamin compounds and precursors, chelators, enzymes,
flavinoids (broadly disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,686,082 and
5,686,367), and sterol compounds.
. [0162] Q. Emulsifiers and Amphiphilic Molecules
[0163] The cosmetic system of the present invention may
also comprise an emulsifier, an amphiphilic molecule, or
mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the composition
contains from 0.05% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 7.5%,
and even more preferably from 0.5% to 5%, based on the weight
of each individual composition, of an emulsifier or
amphiphilic molecule.
28

[0164] Suitable emulsifiers can include any of a wide
variety of nonionic, cationic, anionic, and zwitterionic
emulsifiers disclosed in the prior patents and other
references. See McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers,
North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing
Corporation; U.S. Pat. No. 5,011,681; U.S. Pat. No. 4,421,769;
and U.S. Pat. No. 3,755,560.
[0165] Suitable emulsifier types include esters of
glycerin, esters of propylene glycol, fatty acid esters of
polyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polypropylene
glycol', esters of sorbitol, esters of sorbitan anhydrides,
carboxylic acid copolymers, esters and ethers of -glucose,
ethoxylated ethers, ethoxylated alcohols, alkyl phosphates,
polyoxyethylene fatty .ether phosphates, fatty acid amides,
acyl lactylates, soaps, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting
examples of suitable non-silicone-containing emulsifiers for
use herein include: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan
monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya
sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether
distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate,
potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate,
Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate,
polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85) ,
sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene-4 lauryl ether sodium
stearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, steareth-
20, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate,
ceteth-10, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate,
PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Suitable emulsifiers may also include silicone
emulsifiers, which are typically organically modified
organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled in the art as
silicone surfactants. Useful silicone emulsifiers include
dimethicone copolyols. These materials are polydimethyl
siloxanes which have been modified to include polyether side
29

chains such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide
chains, mixtures of these chains, and polyether chains
containing moieties derived from both ethylene oxide and
propylene oxide. Other examples include alkyl-modified
dimethicone copolyols, i.e., compounds which contain C2-C30
pendant side chains. Still other useful dimethicone copolyols
include materials having various cationic, anionic,
amphoteric, and zwitterionic pendant moieties.
[0167] The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein
can be described by the following general structure:

wherein R is Ci-C30 straight, branched, or cyclic alkyl and R2
is selected from the group consisting of:
- (CH2)n-0- (CH2CHR30)m-H,
and
- (CH2)n-0- (CH2CHR30)m- (CH2CHR40)o-H,
wherein n is an integer of from about 3 to about 10; R3 and R4
are selected from the group consisting of H and Ci-C6 straight
or branched chain alkyl .such that R3 and R4 are not
simultaneously the same; and m, o, x, and y are selected such
that the molecule has an overall molecular weight from about
200 to about 10,000,000, with m, o, x, and y being
independently selected from integers of zero or greater such
that m and o are not both simultaneously zero, and z being
independently selected from integers of 1 or greater. It is
recognized that positional isomers of these copolyols can be
achieved. The chemical representations depicted above for the
R2 moieties containing the R3 and R4 groups are not meant to be
limiting but are shown as such for convenience.
30

[0168] Also useful hersin, although not strictly classified
as dimethicone copolyols, are silicone surfactants as depicted
in the structures in the previous paragraph wherein R2 is :
-(CH2)n-0-R5,
wherein R5 is a cationic, .anionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic
moiety.
[016 9] Nonlimiting examples of dimethicone copolyols arid
other silicone surfactants useful as emulsifiers herein
include polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant
polyethylene oxide sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether
copolymers with pendant polypropylene oxide sidechains,
polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixed
polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide sidechains,
polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixed
poly(ethylene) (propylene)oxide sidechains,
polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant
organobetaine sidechains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether
copolymers with pendant carboxylate sidechains,
polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant
quaternary ammonium sidechains; and also further modifications
of the preceding copolymers containing pendant C2-C3o straight,
branched, or cyclic alkyl moieties. Examples of commercially
available dimethicone copolyols- useful herein sold by Dow
Corning Corporation are Dow CorningR™ 190, 193, Q2-5220, 2501
Wax, 2-5324 fluid, and 3225C (this later material being sold
as a mixture with eyelomethicone). Cetyl dimethicone copolyol
is commercially available as a mixture with polyglyceryl-4
isostearate (and) hexyl laurate and is sold under the
tradename ABILR™ WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt). Cetyl
dimethicone copolyol is also commercially available as a
mixture with hexyl laurate (and) polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and)
cetyl dimethicone and is sold under the tradename ABILR™ WS-08
(also available from Goldschmidt). Other nonlimiting examples
include the SILWET series and SILSOFT series available from
31

Crompton/OSi. Other nonlimiting examples of dimethicone
copolyols also include lauryl dimethicone copolyol,
dimethicone copolyol acetate, dimethicone copolyol adipate,
dimethicone copolyolamine, dimethicone copolyol behenate,
dimethicone copolyol butyl ether, dimethicone copolyol hydroxy
stearate, dimethicone copolyol isostearate, dimethicone
copolyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol methyl ether,
dimethicone copolyol phosphate, and dimethicone copolyol
stearate. See International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,
Fifth Edition, 1993.
[0170] COSMETIC AND/OR PHARMACEUTICAL USES
[0171] The cosmetic system and process of the present
invention may be employed for a variety of cosmetic and/or
pharmaceutical uses. Examples thereof include, but are, not
limited to, color cosme.tics' such as lipsticks, mascaras,
foundations, and the like, a.s well as anti-aging, UV
protection and the like.
[0172] Without intending to be bound by theory,' it is
believed that because of the substantial immiscibility of the
continuous phases of each individual composition, said
substantial immiscibility being facilitated by the difference
in solubility parameters of the major ingredients present in
each continuous phase, a cosmetic system capable of imparting
multiple aesthetic and feel properties can be employed in a
single-step application.
[0173] EXAMPLES
[0174] The following are non-limiting examples of the
cosmetic system of the present invention. The examples are
given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be
construed as limitations of the present invention, as many
variations thereof are possible without departing from the
spirit and scope of the invention, which would be recognized
by one of ordinary skill in the art. In the examples, all
concentrations are listed as weight percent, unless otherwise
32

specified and may exclude minor materials such as diluents,
filler, and so forth. The listed formulations, therefore,
comprise the listed components and any minor materials
associated with such components. As is apparent to one of
ordinary skill in the art, the selection of these minor
materials will vary depending on- the physical and chemical
characteristics of the particular ingredients selected to make
the present invention as described herein.
[0175] The ratio at which the compositions will be combined
will depend upon the type of keratinous substrate be^ing
treated and/or the reason for treating the keratinous
substrate. Such a determination will be apparent to those of
skill in the art.
[0176] Lip Compositions

LIP COMPOSITION A
SEQ RAW MATERIAL/INCI (Trade Name) % W/W
A Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene & Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride (Koboguard 5400 CCT) 40.15
A TRIMETHYLPENTAPHENYLTRISILOXANE (and) PHENYL METHYL
SILOXANE (DC555) 47.10
B Ozokerite (Ozokerite Wax Pastilles SP 1021 P) 6.80
C Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene & Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride (Koboguard 5400 CCT) 5.00
C Red 7 0.40
D Colorona Sienna 0.40
D Duochrome RG 0.15
100.00

Process
1) Disperse pigment Red 7 into hydrogenated
Polycyclopentadiene/Caprylic/Capric
Triglyceride (Koboguard 5400 CCT)
2) Mix Well Grind it with Triple Roller Mill
(Pass 3 times) Check for the dispersion
3) In a separate beaker, weight out SEQ A
(Koboguard 5400 CCT and DC 555), mix well
till clear under propellor mixing
4) Add Seq B (ozokerite) heat it up to 90 C,
till melt and clear
5) Add Pigment Grind (Seq C) mix under
moderate propellor mixing
6) Add Pearl Seq D
7) Cool to 25 C under moderating mixing
33

LIP COMPOSITION B
SEQ RAW MATERIAL/INCI % W/W
A Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Polysynlane SV) 45.15
A Polybutene (Indopol H100) 47.10
A C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE (Tegosoft TN) 6.80
A Polybutene (Higher MW) (Permethyl 104A) 0.40
A Hydrogenated Polydecene (Puresyn 150) 0.40
A BHT 0.15
100.00
Process
Add all the ingredients, and heat it up to
1) 55 C, mix till clear.
[0177] The two lip compositions A and B were dispensed at
an equal volume and mixed in the palm of the hand just prior
to application to the lips. The resulting composition
exhibited superior shine.
[0178] Foundation Composition
[0179] Silicone in Water Composition

Phase Trade Name INCI Name % w/w
A Water Water 40.90

Glycerin Glycerin 5.00

Kostacerin
AMPS Ammonium
Polyacryloyldimethyl
Taurate 0.30

Sepigel Polyacrylamide (and)
C13-14 Isoparaffin (and)
Laureth-7 1.00 .

KF-6100 Polyglyceryl-3
Disiloxane Dimethicone 2.00
B Phenonip Phenonip 0.80

DC 245 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane 20.00

DC 9041 Dimethicone (and)
Dimethicone Crosspolymer 30.00

TOTAL 100.00
—,-
34

[0180] Water in Silicone Composition

Phase Trade Name INCI Name %w/w

Al DC 245 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane 19.00

DC 2-8179 Nylon-61l/Dimethicone
Copolymer 0.50

Propylparaben Propylparaben 0.20

A2 SR-1000 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 6.00

ISOLAN Gl 34 Polyglyceryl-4
Isostearate 1.50

ABIL EM 90 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1
Dimethicone 1.00

BELSIL DMC
6038 Bis-PEG-15 Methyl Ether
Dimethicone 0.50

KP545 Cyclopentasiloxane and
ACRYLATES/DIMETHICONE
COPOLYMER 4.70

ITT-Treated
pigments Pigments 18.00

A3 SUNSPHERE H 51 Silica 3.00
ORGASOL 2002 Nylon-12 1.00

A4 Bentone 38V Disteardimpnium
Hectorite 1.00

Propylene
Carbonate Propylene Carbonate 0.52

B Water Water 40.28
Sodium
Chloride Sodium Chloride .1.00
HYDROLITE-5 Pentylene Glycol 0.50
Sodium
Dehydroacetate
Monohydrate Sodium Dehydroacetate 0.20
Methylparaben Methylparaben 0.20
BRIJ 30 Laureth-4 0.50
Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.40

TOTAL 100.00
[0181] The silicone-in-water emulsion and the water-in-
silicone emulsion were dispensed at an equal volume and mixed
in the palm of the hand just prior to application to the face.
The resulting . composition exhibited superior hydration and
good wear.
35

We Claim:
1. A process for treating a keratinous substrate
comprising:
(a) providing at least a first composition having a
continuous phase whose major ingredient has a solubility
parameter corresponding to 8;
(b) providing at least a second composition having a
continuous phase whose major ingredient has a solubility-
parameter corresponding to 8' ; and
(c) combining (a) and (b) prior to, or during, their
application onto the keratinous substrate,
and wherein the difference between 5 and 8' is greater
than 12, and wherein the major ingredient is chosen from a
hydrophilic polar material, an organic non-polar material and
an inorganic non-polar material.
2. The process of claim 1 wherein the major ingredient
of the first composition is an inorganic non-polar material.
3. The process of claim 1 wherein the major ingredient
of the first composition is a polyalkylaryl siloxane.
4. The process of claim 1 wherein the major ingredient
of the first composition is a polyalkyl siloxane.
5. The process of claim 1 wherein the major ingredient
of the first composition is a trimethylpentaphenyl
trisiloxane.

6. The process of claim 2 wherein the major ingredient
of the second composition is an organic polar material.
7. The process of claim 2 wherein the major ingredient
of the second composition is a hydrocarbon oil.
8. The process of claim 2 wherein the major ingredient
of the second composition is a hydrophilic polar material.
9. The process of claim 2 wherein the major ingredient
of the second composition is water.
36

10. The process of claim 3, wherein the keratinous
substrate comprises lips and wherein the major ingredient of
the first composition comprises
trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane.
11. The process of claim 3, wherein the keratinous
substrate comprises lips and wherein the first composition
further comprises a film-forming polymer.
12. The system of claim 3, wherein the keratinous
substrate comprises lips and wherein the first composition
further comprises a colorant.
13. The process of claim 3, wherein the keratinous
substrate comprises lips and wherein the major ingredient of
the second composition contains a straight or branched chain
hydrocarbon.
14. The process of claim 13, wherein the hydrocarbon
comprises, polybutene.
15. The process of claim 13, wherein the hydrocarbon
comprises hydrogenated polyisobutene.
16. The process of claim 9, wherein the keratinous
substrate comprises skin and wherein the second composition is
a silicone-in-water emulsion.
17. The process of claim 16, wherein the second
composition further comprises a crosslinked silicone polymer.
18. The process of claim 16, wherein the first
composition is a water-in-silicone emulsion.
19. The process of claim 18, wherein the first
composition further comprises cyclopentasiloxane.
20. The process of claim 18, wherein the first
composition further comprises a dimethicone copolymer.
21. The process of claim 18, wherein the first
composition further comprises a colorant.
37

22. A cosmetic system capable of imparting multiple
aesthetic benefits onto a keratinous substrate in a single
application comprising a multi-unit receptacle containing:
(a) providing at least a first composition having a
continuous phase whose major ingredient has a solubility
parameter corresponding to 8; at least a second unit
comprising a composition having a continuous phase whose major
ingredient has a solubility parameter corresponding to 5',
(b) and wherein the difference between 8 and 8' is '
greater than 12, and wherein the major ingredient is chosen
from a hydrophilic polar material, an organic non-polar
material and an inorganic non-polar material.

23. The system of claim 22 wherein the major ingredient
of the first composition is an inorganic non-polar material.
24. The system of claim 22 wherein the major ingredient
of the first composition is a polyalkylaryl siloxane.
25. The system of claim 22 wherein the major ingredient
of the first composition is a polyalkyl siloxane.
26. The system of claim 22 wherein the major ingredient
of• the first composition is a trimethylpentaphenyl
trisiloxane.
27. The system of claim 23 wherein the major ingredient
of the second composition is an organic polar material.
28. The system of claim 23 wherein the major ingredient
of the second composition is a hydrocarbon oil.
29. The system of claim 23 wherein the major ingredient
of the second composition is a hydrophilic polar material.
30. The system of claim 23 wherein the major ingredient
of the second composition is water.
31. The system of claim 24, wherein the major ingredient
of the first composition comprises
trimethylpentaphenyItrisiloxane.
38

32. The system of claim 24, wherein the first
composition further comprises a film-forming polymer.
33. The system of claim 24, wherein the first
composition further comprises a colorant.
34. The system of claim 24, wherein the major ingredient
of the second composition contains a straight or branched
chain hydrocarbon.
35. The system of claim 34, wherein the hydrocarbon
comprises polybutene.
36. The system of claim 34, wherein the hydrocarbon
comprises hydrogenated polyisobutene.
37. The system of claim 30, wherein the second
composition is a silicone-in-water emulsion.
38. The system of claim 37, wherein the second
composition further comprises a crosslinked silicone polymer.
39. The system of claim 37, wherein the first
composition is a water-in-silicone emulsion.
40. The system of claim 39, wherein the first
composition further comprises cyclopentasiloxane.
41. The system of claim 39, wherein the first
composition further comprises a dimethicone copolymer.
42. The system of claim 39, wherein the first
composition further comprises a colorant.
Dated this the 19th day of March, 2008.

39

A process for treating a keratinous substrate involving: (a) providing at least a first
composition having a continuous phase whose major ingredient has a solubility parameter
corresponding to ; (b) providing at least a second composition having a continuous phase
whose major ingredient has a solubility parameter corresponding to '; and (c) combining
(a) and (b) prior to , or during, their application onto the keratinous substrate, and wherein
the difference between  and ' is greater than 12, and wherein the major ingredient is
chosen from a hydrophilic polar material, an organic non-polar material and an inorganic
non-polar material.