Abstract: The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymer, at least one amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymer and a specific oil-in-water-type silicone emulsion. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising the application onto the keratin fibres of the composition according to the invention.
FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR SILICONE
EMULSION, AN AMPHOTERIC OR CATIONIC VINYLIC POLYMER, SURFACTANTS AND AN ACRYLIC COPOLYMER
2. Applicant(s)
NAME NATIONALITY ADDRESS
L'OREAL French 14, rue Royale 75008 PARIS, FRANCE
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it
is to be performed.
The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymer, at least one amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymer and a specific oil-in-water-type silicone emulsion.
The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising the application onto the keratin fibres of the composition according to the invention.
It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin materials especially such as the hair and the skin. These compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a toiletry flannel makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin.
These compositions contain substantial contents of "detergent" surfactants, which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic compositions with good washing power, must especially give them good foaming power.
The surfactants that are useful for this purpose are generally of anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type, and particularly of anionic type.
In parallel, in order to obtain a composition with a cream texture, which is sought after by consumers, fatty substances such as fatty acids and fatty alcohols are commonly used in detergent compositions.
However, these fatty substances have a negative impact on foam. The presence of fatty substances in the detergent composition significantly reduces the quantity and quality of the foam generated.
Moreover, oil-based compositions have a tendency to leave a surface feel perceived to be greasy, charged and insufficiently clean by users. They are generally not satisfactory for hair cleansing.
Thus, there is a real need to provide compositions, such as cosmetic compositions for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, that make it possible to overcome the drawbacks described above, i.e. which effectively remove dirt and excess sebum and enhance cosmetic properties of said fibres, such as softness, smoothness, manageability and disentangling. These cosmetic properties may also be long-lasting.
It is of interest to provide compositions with a pleasant cream texture and capable of generating a good quantity of foam, while having a low amount of non-silicone fatty substances, preferably low amounts of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols (or even not at all).
These objectives are achieved with the present invention, a subject-matter of which is a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising:
a) at least one anionic surfactant;
b) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant;
c) at least one anionic associative polymer containing one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units;
d) at least one amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymer; and
e) an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
• a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40 000 to less than 100 000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1 000 to 15 000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
• a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
• water.
It has been noted that the composition according to the invention, when applied onto keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, leads to an improvement of the condition and quality of hair, in terms of hair feel (e.g. smooth feel, soft feel, conditioned feel, not greasy, not charged) and hair manageability (e.g., combing, disentangling, desirable volume, suppleness, less frizz).
Particularly, it has been observed that the keratin fibres, in particular the hair, treated with the composition according to the invention are easier to disentangle and more manageable.
In addition, the composition according to the invention has a good detergent power and the keratin fibres, in particular the hair, treated with the composition according to the invention are particularly clean and light.
The observed properties of the composition according to the invention are particularly long-lasting.
Furthermore, it has also been observed that the composition according to the invention presents a pleasant cream texture and generates a large quantity of foam.
The present invention also relates to a process for treating, in particular for washing and/or conditioning, keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application onto keratin fibres of the composition according to the invention.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows. In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:
- the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be replaced therewith;
- the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;
- for the purposes of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and respectively the expression “less than” are intended to mean an open range which is strictly greater, respectively strictly less, and therefore that the limits are not included;
- according to the present application, the term “keratin fibres” preferably denotes human keratin fibres, and more preferentially the hair;
- for the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty substance” is intended to mean a non-oxyalkylenated organic compound, that is insoluble in water at 30°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013×105 Pa), that is to say it has a solubility of less than or equal to 5% (g of compound per mL of water) and preferably less than or equal to 1%, even more preferentially less than equal to 0.1%. For example, fatty acids and fatty alcohols are, for the purposes of the present invention, fatty substances;
- the term “fatty acid” is intended to mean a non-oxyalkylenated organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
- the term “fatty alcohol” is intended to mean a non-oxyalkylenated alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
- the term "associative polymer" refers to polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules. Associative polymers more particularly comprise at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. Thus, in particular, associative polymers comprise at least one hydrophobic group. The term "hydrophobic group" preferably means a saturated
or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
The anionic surfactants
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
The anionic surfactants that may be used in the invention are different from the polymers c) as described hereafter.
It is understood in the present description that:
- carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or
carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or
more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds.
The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 8 to 28, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially
polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts,
monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-
methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and
tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
More preferentially, the anionic surfactants are selected from the anionic surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, and better still from C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts, and in particular lauryl ether sulfate salts.
The anionic surfactants suitable in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 30%, more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, even better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from those of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, the one or more surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, even better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts, the one or more C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts are present
in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, even better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from lauryl ether sulfate salts, the one or more lauryl ether sulfate salts are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferentially is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, even better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total amount of anionic surfactant(s), in particular of surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, particularly of C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts and even more particularly of lauryl ether sulfate salts, is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, better greater than or equal to 7% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and even better from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are different from the polymers c) and d) as described hereafter.
More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is(are) chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamido-propylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20%, even more preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better from 1% to 10% by weight, and even better from 1.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:
- one or more anionic surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular C12-
C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts such as lauryl ether sulfate salts, and
- one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants chosen from (C8-C20
alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such
as cocoylamido-propylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the total amount of anionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (cumulative) may range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, better from 5% to 22% by weight, and even better from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic associative polymer containing one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units.
Preferably, said anionic associative polymers containing one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units are thickening polymers.
These (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers according to the invention are non-silicone (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers. In other word, the (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers according to the invention do not contain any silicon (Si) atom.
The (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C10-C30)alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.
More particularly, these (meth)acrylic associative are preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (VIII) below:
in which formula R1 denotes H or CH3, i.e. acrylic acid or methacrylic acid units, and in which the hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (IX) below:
in which formula R1 denotes H or CH3 (i.e. acrylate or methacrylate units), R2 denoting a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
As (C10-C30)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to formula (IX), mention may be made more particularly of lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
(Meth)acrylic associative polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to patents US 3 915 921 and US 4 509 949.
The (meth)acrylic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention may more particularly denote polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
(i) acrylic acid and one or more esters of formula (X) below:
in which R3 denotes H or CH3, R4 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally a crosslinking agent, for instance those consisting of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer; or
(ii) essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the product formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “crosslinking agent" means a monomer containing a group:
and at least one other polymerizable group, the unsaturated bonds of the monomer being unconjugated relative to each other.
As crosslinking agent that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of polyallyl ethers especially such as polyallyl sucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol.
Among the said (meth)acrylic associative polymers above, the ones most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, and more preferably still Pemulen TR1, and the product sold by the company S.E.P.C. under the name Coatex SX.
As (meth)acrylic associative polymers, mention may also be made of the copolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohol sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.
Other (meth)acrylic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention may also be sulfonic polymers comprising at least one (meth)acrylic monomer bearing sulfonic group(s), in free form or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.
The said hydrophobic portion present in the said sulfonic polymers that may be used according to the invention preferably comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferentially, these sulfonic polymers that may be used according to the invention are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
These said sulfonic polymers generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 and even more preferably from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g/mol.
The sulfonic polymers that may be used according to the invention may or may not be crosslinked. Crosslinked polymers are preferably chosen.
When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be selected from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of
polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization. Mention may be made, for example,
of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl
ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol
diacrylatedi(meth)acrylate or tetraethylene glycol diacrylatedi(meth)acrylate,
trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide,
methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
Methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) will be used more particularly.
The degree of crosslinking will generally range from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
The (meth)acrylic monomers bearing sulfonic group(s) of the sulfonic
polymers that may be used according to the invention are chosen especially from
(meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids and N-(C1-
C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance
undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.
(Meth)acrylamido(C1-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance
acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid,
acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, will more preferentially be used.
2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, will even more particularly be used.
The (meth)acrylic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention may be chosen especially from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00/31154 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, β-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides,
vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
The (meth)acrylic associative polymers bearing sulfonic group(s) that may particularly preferably be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion containing from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, β-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
These copolymers are described especially in patent application EP-A-750 899, patent US 5 089 578 and in the following Yotaro Morishima publications:
- Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;
- Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704;
- Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332;
- Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40(2), 220-221.
The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these particular copolymers are preferably selected from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (XI) below:
in which R5 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y denotes O or NH; R6 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon-based radical containing at least 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferentially from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and ranges from 0 to 100.
The radical R6 is preferably chosen from linear C6-C18 alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl), or branched or cyclic C6-C18 alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane (C12) or adamantane (C10)); C6-C18 perfluoroalkyl radicals (for example the group of formula –(CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl radical (C27) or a cholesterol ester residue, for instance the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; aromatic polycyclic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, the ones that are more particularly preferred are linear alkyl radicals and more particularly the n-dodecyl radical.
According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the monomer of formula (XI) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x ≥ 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain preferentially consists of ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consists of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylene units generally ranges from 3 to 100, more preferably from 3 to 50 and more preferably still from 7 to 25.
Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
- copolymers, which may or may not be crosslinked and which may or may not be neutralized, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or of (C8-C16)alkyl (meth)acrylate units, relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899;
- terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C18)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US-5 089 578.
Mention may also be made of copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.
Mention will be made more particularly of the copolymers constituted of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (XII) below:
in which X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or an ammonium ion;
and units of formula (XIII) below:
in which x denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and more preferentially from 7 to 25; R5 has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (XI) and R8 denotes a linear or branched C6-C22 and more preferentially C10-C22 alkyl.
The polymers that are particularly preferred are those for which x = 25, R5 denotes methyl and R8 represents n-dodecyl; they are described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.
The polymers for which X+ denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.
Preferably, the (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers are crosslinked.
Preferably, the (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers are chosen from acrylates/C10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers.
More preferentially, the (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers are crosslinked and are chosen from acrylates/C10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers such as acrylates/C10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate crosspolymers.
Preferably, the total amount of (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 2% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) b) to the total amount of (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymer(s) c) ranges from 0.1 to 100; more preferentially from 0.5 to 40; even more preferentially from 1 to 30; better from 1.1 to 25; even better from 2 to 20; and better still from 5 to 15.
Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines and (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines to the total amount of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers ranges from 0.1 to 100; more preferentially from 0.5 to 40; even more preferentially from 1 to 30; better from 1.1 to 25; even better from 2 to 20; and better still from 5 to 15.
The amphoteric and cationic vinylic polymers
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymer.
These amphoteric and cationic vinylic polymers preferably comprise one or more cationic or quaternized acrylamide and/or methacrylamide unit(s).
These amphoteric and cationic vinylic polymers according to the invention are non-silicone amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymers. In other word, the amphoteric and cationic vinylic polymers according to the invention do not contain any silicon (Si) atom.
According to the present invention, by “cationic or amphoteric polymer(s)”, it is understood one or more cationic polymers, one or more amphoteric polymers or the mixture of one or more cationic polymers and of one or more amphoteric polymers.
According to the present invention, by “vinylic”, it is understood that the polymer derives from monomers comprising at least one vinylic monomer, preferably at least one (meth)acrylic monomer (i.e. monomer derived from acrylic or methacrylic acid, and its derivatives).
According to the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
According to the present invention, the term "amphoteric polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.
Among the cationic or amphoteric polymers that can be used, mention may be made of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units having the following formula:
wherein:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3
radical;
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched
divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a
hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a
methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C=) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold
under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company
Ciba Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold
under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate
or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the
company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products
known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone
terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company
ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as
the copolymers sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide
copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company
ISP,
- preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-
C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by
copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized
with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by
crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular
methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked
acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by
weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in
mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company
Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company BASF;
(2) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, and
preferably of acrylamide, such as the copolymers comprising units corresponding to
formula (II) or (III):
wherein:
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
- Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide (INCI : Polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR;
(3) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
In other words, these polymers may be in particular chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular weight of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Preferably, the amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymers are chosen from polymer(s) comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide units, and could be cationic or amphoteric.
The cationic charge density of the polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide units may preferably be lower than or equal to 6 meq/g, more preferentially lower than or equal to 5 meq/g, and better still lower than or equal to 4 meq/g. This cationic charge density advantageously ranges from 0.5 to 6 meq/g, better still from 1 to 5 meq/g, and even more preferably from 1.5 to 4 meq/g.
The polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide units that can be used in the present invention are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
in which:
- R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- R, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical, preferably a linear C1-C6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals;
- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical;
- R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
More particularly the polymers comprising cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide units are chosen from copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (IV) as defined previously, and more preferably comprising at least one unit of formula (IV) in which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear alkyl group having 3 carbon atoms and R5, R6 and R7 represent a methyl.
The polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide unit(s) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be selected from the families of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters, preferably selected from the families of acrylamide and methacrylamides, and more preferentially acrylamide or methacrylamide.
Among these homo- or co-polymers, mention may be made of:
- homopolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimonium halides, preferable Chloride, such as the product N-DURHANCE A-1000 from ASHLAND,
- copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimonium halides, preferably chloride, and
acrylamide, such as the product sold under the name Salcare® SC 60 by the company
BASF or sold under the name N-Hance SP 100 or N-Durhance AA2000 by the
company Ashland, or the product sold under the name of N-Hance 4572 (e.g. Aqualon
aqua 4572 conditioning polymer) by the company Ashland, that is a mixture of guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and of acrylamidepropyl-trimonium
chloride/acrylamide copolymer,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP.
The polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide units that can be used in the present invention can also be chosen from amphoteric polymers.
Amphoteric polymers can be chosen more particularly from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and (iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (VI) below:
in which:
- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or CH3 radical; and
- R2 denotes a NR3R4 radical, wherein R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, preferably R2 denotes an amino, a dimethylamino, a tert-butylamino, a dodecylamino or a -NH-CH2OH radical.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (VI).
The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (VI) in which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (VII) below:
in which:
- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or CH3 radical;
- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (VII).
Among these units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of formula (VII), the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R1 denotes a methyl radical, n is equal to 3, R5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y- denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (VIII):
in which:
- R1 denotes hydrogen atom or CH3 radical; and
- R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a NR3R4 radical, wherein R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical optionally substituted by a sulfonic group (-SO3H), preferably R2 denotes a
–NH-C(CH3)2-CH2-SO3H radical.
The preferred units of formula (VIII) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (VIII) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom and R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (VIII).
Preferably, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
The content of units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and
- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
As examples of amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/ methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) under the name Polyquaternium 53.
Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.
Another preferred type of amphoteric polymers is the polymer comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more non ionic units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylate type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and (iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.
The monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and the acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (monomers (ii) and (iii) respectively) are as described above.
The non ionic monomers (i) of (meth)acrylate type are preferably chosen from C1-C4 alky acrylates and methacrylates. A preferred monomer is methyl acrylate.
As particularly preferred examples of such amphoteric polymers, mention may be made of acrylic acid/ methylacrylamidopropyltriméthylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the name polyquaternium 47. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2001N by the company Nalco.
The cationic or amphoteric vinylic polymers d) according to the invention are preferably chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/
(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium
chloride/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, and more preferably
acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide
/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic
acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide/
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/ (C1-C6 alkyl)
(meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (C1-C6 alkyl) (meth)acrylate /
(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; more preferably acrylic acid/
methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers,
- copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide,
- and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the cationic or amphoteric vinylic polymers d) according to the invention are chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/
(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ (meth)acrylamide
copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers,
- copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide,
- and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of:
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/
(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ (meth)acrylamide
copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers, and of
- copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and
of acrylamide.
Preferably, the total amount of cationic or amphoteric vinylic polymer(s) d) present in the composition according to the invention advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.02 to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of cationic or amphoteric vinylic polymer(s) d),
chosen from (i) (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/
(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium
chloride/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, and more preferably
acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers, (ii) copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, and (iii) and mixtures thereof, advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.02 to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.05 to 3% by
weight, better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The specific oil-in-water emulsion
The composition according to the present invention comprises an oil-in-water (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and containing:
- a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
- a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
- water.
In the oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the silicone mixture, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.
- (i) trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes The silicone mixture comprises a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane that is preferably of formula (A): R’3SiO(R’2SiO)pSiR’3 wherein:
- R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl, and
- p is an integer of from 500 to 2,000, preferably of from 1,000 to 2,000.;
The trialkylsilyl terminated (or end-blocked or α,ω -position) dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention have a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded) at 25°C, preferably a viscosity of from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, more preferably a viscosity of from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.
The trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention are preferably linear but may contain additionally to the R’2SiO2/2 units (D-units) in formula (A), RSiO3/2 units (T-units) and/or SiO4/2 units (Q-units), wherein R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R’, same or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C1-C18 alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and ally radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and the b-phenylethyl radical. Most preferred is the methyl radical.
Preferably, the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes are trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones).
(ii) amino silicones The silicone mixture comprises an amino silicone that are preferably of formula (B):
XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X wherein:
- R, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and even better methyl;
- X, same or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C1-C6-alkoxy group; preferably X is R, i.e. a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and even better methyl;
- A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2, same or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4-alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, R3 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2-, and x is 0 or 1;
and
- m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600.
Preferably, A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2-, and x is 1.
Preferably, R, same or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C1-C28 alkyl radicals, more preferentially C1-C18 alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and ally radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and the b-phenylethyl radical. Most preferred is the methyl radical.
The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C, preferably of from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.
The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably of from 3.5 to 8 mg.
The mole percent of amine functionality is preferably in the range of from about 0.3 to about 8%.
Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone mixture according to the invention include trialkylsilyl terminated amino silicone.
Most preferably, amino silicones are trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane, most preferably trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane copolymers. The amino radical A can be protonated partially or fully by adding acids to the amino silicone, wherein the salt forms of the amino radical are obtained. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of from 0.1 to 2.0 mol per 1 mol of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (B).
The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in a quantity of from 70 to 90% by weight, preferably from 75 to 85%
by weight and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a quantity of from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.
- mixture of emulsifiers
The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises a mixture of emulsifiers that comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers. It could optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
The mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value from 10 to 16.
The nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen among the nonionic surfactants as described hereunder.
Mention may be made of alcohols, α-diols and (C1-20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula:
R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v
in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4. Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula
described above in which:
- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical
comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.
The nonionic emulsifiers could preferably be chosen among ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylene surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, sorbitol ester and their ethoxylated derivatives, glycol esters of fatty acids, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, polyoxyethylene fatty acid amides.
Preferably, nonionic emulsifiers are selected from:
(i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, especially (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:
R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH
with:
- R3 representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group,
preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more
hydroxyl groups, and
- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferentially between 2 and
150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE);
(ii) polyoxyalkylene (C8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers,
(iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan (C8-C32) fatty acid esters, especially polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan (C10-C24) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and
(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C8-C32) fatty acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C10-C24) fatty acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.
Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers could be selected from alkyl ether of polyalkyleneglycol and alkyl esters of polyalkyleneglycol; preferably of polyethyleneglycol (PEG).
Some useful emulsifiers are:
- polyethyleneglycol octyl ether; polyethyleneglycol lauryl ether;
polyethyleneglycol tridecyl ether; polyethyleneglycol cetyl ether; polyethyleneglycol
stearyl ether; among these, mention may be made more particularly of trideceth-3,
trideceth-10 and steareth-6.
- polyethyleneglycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol dodecylphenyl
ether; polyethyleneglycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol stearylphenyl ether;
- polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethyleneglycol sorbitan
monooleate.
- polyethyleneglycol stearate, and especially PEG-100 stearate.
Most preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are chosen among steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and their mixture; preferably, all these emulsifiers are present in the mixture of emulsifiers.
The mixture of emulsifiers could comprise one or more cationic emulsifiers that could be selected among tetraalkylammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylarylammonium halides, and their salts; quaternary ammonium compounds including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be chosen among cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as chloride.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably of from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably of from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, when present, in a total amount of from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total amount of from 40 to 60% by weight, more preferably of from 45 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of from 35 to 45% by weight, more preferably of from 38-42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably of from 8-12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion comprises water preferably in an amount of from 25 to 50% by weight, more preferably of from 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably of from 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion could additionally comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, that could be present in the emulsion in a quantity of from 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
A method of preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises:
- a step of mixing one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes of viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and one or more amino silicones of viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of from 15°C to 40°C, preferably at 25°C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid, then
- a step of adding a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value from 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a silicone-emulsifier-mixture, then
- a step of homogenizing the silicone-emulsifier-mixture followed by
- a step of adding, preferably step-wise, water, preferably demineralized
water, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm.
The method of preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion could further comprise an additional step of adding a biocide. Biocide could be added for preserving the emulsion against microbial contamination. The biocide could be added at the level of for preserving emulsion against microbial contamination and obtaining the said
emulsion. The quantity of the biocide depends on the type of biocide and as recommended by the manufacturer.
The preparation of the mixture of emulsifiers could be made by mixing one or more nonionic emulsifiers.
The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e. after addition of the biocide) is preferably of from 4 to 6.
The oil-in-water emulsion has D50 particle size of less than 350 nm, preferably from 100 to 300 nm, more preferably from 150 to 250 nm, even more preferentially from 150 to 225 nm, and most preferably from 160 to 200 nm. It corresponds to the average hydrodynamic particle diameter. The D50 particle size is expressed in volume. The D50 particle size could be measured by using a device ZetaSizer from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method.
- Particle size measurement
Emulsion particle size could be measured by using a device ZetaSizer from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method. The D50 value of particle size (average hydrodynamic particle diameter) is measured, wherein the evaluating algorithm is “cumulants analysis”.
For example, take 0.5 g of the emulsion sample in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of demineralized water is poured into it and then mixed properly to get the sample test solution. The sample test solution is poured in the cuvette cell and is put into the slot of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the value of the particle diameter at 50% in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50=170 nm, then 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170 nm, and 50% smaller than 170 nm or about 50% by volume of all droplets in said emulsion is 170 nm.
- Viscosity measurement
The viscosity, especially of the silicones or of the emulsion, is measured at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
For viscosities between 1000 to 40,000 mPa.s at 25ºC: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar Rheometer; model MCR101, geometry single gap cylinder: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
For viscosities between 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s at 25ºC: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar Rheometer; model MCR101, 25-6 cone (Cone-plate geometry: 25 mm dia. / 6° cone); the “Zero gap” setting being made and with a shear rate of 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
Three measurements are made for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. MCR Rheometer Series products work as per USP (US Pharmacopeia Convention) 912 – Rotational Rheometer methods.
- Amine value measurement
The amine value is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Make: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. 0.6 g of sample is taken in a 500 ml beaker and a toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture is added and stirred to mix the sample thoroughly; then the sample solution is titrated with a 0.1(N) HCl solution. A determination of the blank value with the toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture is also done. The calculation of the amine value is done by the above-mentioned potentiometer.
The amine value is calculated according to the formula:
56.11 × (V - VBlank) × N / W mg KOH/ g of sample,
Wherein
V= Volume of HCl required in ml, VBlank= Volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with the toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture in ml; N= Normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1 N, W= weight of the sample taken in gram.
- HLB Value
The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, HLB values refer to the values at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
The HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.
Calculation of HLB value of nonionic surfactant is calculated according to the equation: HLB = (E + P)/5, with E being the weight percentage of oxyethylene content and P being the weight percentage of polyhydric alcohol content, described in to the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, n°4), pp.249-256.
It can also experimentally be determined according to the book of F. Puisieux and M. Seiller, entitled "Galenica 5: Les systèmes disperses - Tome I - Agents de surface et émulsions - Chapitre IV - Notions de HLB et de HLB critique, pp.153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Determination de HLB par voie experimentale [Experimental determination of HLB], pp.164-180".
The calculated HLB is the preferred HLB values that should be taken into account.
Said calculated HLB could be defined as being the following:
“calculated HLB = 20 × molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass.”
For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units condensed onto the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “Griffin HLB” as defined hereabove.
For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s).
For ionic surfactants/emulsifiers, the HLB value of individual surfactant/emulsifier can be calculated applying the Davies formula as described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent", Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress of Surface Activity): 426-438.
According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution afforded by the structural components of the emulsifier:
HLB = (hydrophilic groups numbers) – n(group number per CH2 group) +7.
Approximate HLB values for some cationic emulsifiers are given in Table IV, in “Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics”, GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pp17-27.
When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are blended for use, the HLBMix is said to be the required HLB for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation (WAHLBA + WBHLBB)/ (WA + WB) = HLBMix, where WA = the amount (weight) of the first emulsifier (A) used, and WB = the amount (weight) of the second emulsifier (B); HLBA, HLBB = the assigned HLB values for emulsifiers A and B; HLBMix = the HLB of the mixture.
Said oil-in-water emulsion is for example described in WO 2017/108824.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the oil-in-water emulsion e) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 % to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better from 1 to 10%, even better from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 % to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine
value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 % to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight, better from 0.4 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cationic polysaccharides
Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.
According to the invention, the cationic polysaccharide(s) that may be used in the composition is(are) different from the cationic or amphoteric vinylic polymers d).
According to the present invention, the term "cationic polysaccharide" means any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups.
These cationic polysaccharides according to the invention are non-silicone cationic polysaccharides. In other word, the cationic polysaccharides according to the invention do not contain any silicon (Si) atom.
Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Dow chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. The polyquaternium-10 is, for example, one of these polymers.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described especially in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium
or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US
patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising
cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably C1-C6 trialkylammonium groups. Use is
made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-
epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride). Such products are especially sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is(are) chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt, in particular hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
Preferably, the total amount of cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.02 to 3% by weight, better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of guar gum(s) comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.02 to 3% by weight, better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the total amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.02 to 3% by weight, better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than or equal to 3% by weight of non-silicone fatty substance(s), more preferentially less than or equal to 2% by weight, better less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still less
than or equal to 0.5% by weight, and even better less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferentially, the composition according to the invention is free of non-silicone fatty substance (i.e. 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition). In particular, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) that may be present is not added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponds to the possible residual fatty substance(s) provided by the mixed ingredients.
According to the present invention, the term “non-silicone fatty substance” is
intended to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ambient
temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×105 Pa), i.e. which has a
solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight; and of which
the structure does not comprise any silicon atoms, and which therefore especially does
not comprise any siloxane groups. They generally bear in their structure a
hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. They are generally
soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in organic solvents such
as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Advantageously, they are not oxyalkylenated.
Among the non-silicone fatty substances, it may be mentioned for example hydrocarbons including mineral, animal or synthetic origin oils, fatty alcohols, fatty esters including plant oils, fatty acids, waxes, butters, ceramides and mixtures of these compounds.
According to the present invention, the term “fatty acid” means a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids are generally neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
According to the present invention, the term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. The fatty alcohols are generally neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than or equal to 3% by weight of fatty acid(s), more preferentially less than or equal to 2% by weight, better less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, and even better less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferentially, the composition according to the invention is free of fatty acid (i.e. 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition). In particular, the fatty acid(s) that may be present is not added during the preparation of the
composition, but corresponds to the possible residual fatty acid(s) provided by the mixed ingredients.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than or equal to 3% by weight of fatty alcohol(s), more preferentially less than or equal to 2% by weight, better less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, and even better less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferentially, the composition according to the invention is free of fatty alcohol (i.e. 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition). In particular, the fatty alcohol(s) that may be present is not added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponds to the possible residual fatty alcohol(s) provided by the mixed ingredients.
Even more preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises less than or equal to 3% by weight of fatty acid(s) and of fatty alcohol(s) (cumulative), more preferentially less than or equal to 2% by weight, better less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, and even better less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferentially, the composition according to the invention is free of fatty acid and of fatty alcohol (i.e. 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition).
The fatty substances including fatty acids and fatty alcohols are different from the surfactants as described previously.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more polyols.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” is intended to mean an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
More particularly, the polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferentially from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and even more preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
The polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention generally comprise at least three carbon atoms. More preferentially, the polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention comprise no more than 8 carbon atoms.
Preferably, said polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol, and are preferably chosen from 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol and sorbitol, and a mixture of these compounds.
Most particularly preferably, the polyol(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from glycerol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or a mixture of these compounds, and preferably the polyol hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or a mixture of these compounds.
Preferably, the polyol(s) represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water.
Water advantageously represents from 30% to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% to 92% by weight, more preferentially from 50% to 90% by weight and better from 60% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents other than polyols.
Preferably, the organic solvent(s) other than polyols are chosen from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, or aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol.
Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents other than polyols, the organic solvent preferably being ethanol.
When they are present in the composition according to the invention, the organic solvent(s) other than polyols generally represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 3 and 9, preferably between 4 and 6.5, better still between 4.5 and 6.
The pH of the composition according to the invention may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetic compositions, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.
Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid, or organic acids, for instance compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.
Preferably, acetic acid is used as acidifying agent.
The basifying agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid.
The mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreen agents, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives and pigments.
Those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the composition according to the invention.
These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition; more preferably a hair composition such as a hair composition for cleansing and/or conditioning hair.
More preferentially, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo, a conditioner or a hair mask.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a cream-like texture.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises:
- at least one anionic surfactant of alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular C12-
C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salt such as lauryl ether sulfate salt;
- at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamido-propylbetaine, and mixtures thereof;
- at least one (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymer, preferably chosen from acrylates/C10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers such as acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers;
- at least one amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymer chosen from
(meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/ (meth)acrylamide
copolymer, better (meth)acrylamidepropyltrimonium chloride/ (meth)acrylamide
copolymer, and most preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide
copolymer,
- an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and
comprising:
• a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
• a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
• water; and
- optionnaly at least one copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt (for
example chloride) and of acrylamide (in particular, Polyquaternium-7).
The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of application onto the keratin fibres of a composition as described above.
Preferably, the keratin fibres are rinsed after the application onto the keratin fibres of the composition according to the invention.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, after the step of application, the composition according to the invention is removed after an optional leave-on time. The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres; preferably on wet keratin fibres.
Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably the hair.
In the above description, all the preferred embodiments with regard to the components may be used individually or in combination.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention.
Examples:
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are given as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
Example 1: Preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion
450 g of amino silicone fluid (trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane copolymer with amine value of 7.2 mg of KOH/g sample, and a viscosity of 5,600 mPa.s at 25°C) were introduced in an emulsion tank. Stirring was started and 1,800 g of trimethylsilyl terminated dimethylsiloxane polymer fluid of viscosity 61,500 mPa.s at 25°C were introduced under stirring in the same tank. Both fluids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.
In a separate tank, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG-100 stearate were introduced and heated to 60°C. The temperature was maintained till both emulsifiers became liquid. Then 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active material) were added. These nonionic emulsifiers mixture had an HLB value = 11.25.
Then 80 g water and 6.2 g glacial acetic acid were added to the tank and the mixing started. The mixing was continued till whole mass became a creamy paste. The whole paste was introduced in the emulsion tank. Homogenization was carried out for 30 minutes at room temperature. 79.6 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 60 minutes. 72.7 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 50 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 294.3 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenize for 3 minutes. 228.5 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes. Lastly 40.5 g 2-phenoxyethanol were added as a biocide and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes. A stable oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of 170 nm was obtained.
Example 2:
The following composition A according to the invention and the comparative composition B were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (wt. % of active material).
Table 1:
Ingredients A B
(Invention) (Comparative)
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9
Coco-betaine 0.3 0.3
Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.7 2.7
Acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate 0.3 -
crosspolymer
Carbomer - 0.3
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium 0.1 0.1
chloride/acrylamide copolymer
Polyquaternium-7 0.5 0.5
Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone 4 % of 4 % of
(and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 emulsion, emulsion,
stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and)
Trideceth-3 i.e. 0.5% AM i.e. 0.5% AM
(of exemple 1) SiA + 2% AM SiA + 2% AM
of Si of Si
Hydroxypropyl guar 0.5 0.5
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride
Glycol distearate 1.6 1.6
Preservatives Qs Qs
Water Qs 100 Qs 100
Protocol:
The hair locks were shampooed, rinsed with water and placed on a hot plate (30°C). Then 1.2g of the composition to be tested was applied onto 3 independent hair locks (3g, 20 cm, medium bleached hair).
Then, the fingers were run through the hair lock five times for five seconds. Each lock was passed between two fingers to remove excess water (1 passage). Each lock was then rolled around the fingers, or each lock was placed in a watch glass.
Compositions A and B were respectively applied to each lock of hair (evenly from the roots to the ends). The locks were gently massaged by passing each lock about six times between two fingers for fifteen seconds, from the roots to the ends (without creating knots) so as to lather the compositions.
The locks were then rinsed under tap water, and the fingers were run through the hair fifteen times for ten seconds.
Each lock was then finally passed between two fingers to remove excess water (2 passages).
Each wet hair lock was placed on a combing machine (Diastron MTT 175 by Dia-Stron Limited UK) and a comb with a sensor was put into the hair fibers.
Combing was performed by scanning the hair lock from root to tip, and measured friction force.
The measurements were performed 5 times per hair lock. In total, the measurements were performed 15 times per composition to be tested.
The maximum force was selected from the measured data of each hair lock. The average value of the 5 maximum forces was calculated in gram-force (gf): 1 gf corresponds to about 0.0098 Newton.
The lower the force, the easier the keratin fibers are to comb / disentangle.
The same protocol was repeated with the same locks, once completely dry.
Conditions of the test: 23°C, 54% humidity Combing speed = 1 500 mm/minute
The results are shown in the tables 2 (dry combing) and 3 (wet combing) below.
Table 2: Dry combing
Compositions Average value of the 5 maximum forces (in gf)
A
(Invention) 38.79
B
(Comparative) 46.07
Table 3: Wet combing
Compositions Average value of the 5 maximum forces (in gf)
A
(Invention) 90.33
B
(Comparative) 114.75
It is observed that the composition A according to the invention provides a smoother feel, a better combing and a better disentangling of the hair than the comparative composition B. The results are significative because of the T-test (p-value < 0,05).
Furthermore, the composition A according to the invention presents a pleasant cream-like texture, whereas the comparative composition B has an excessively liquid texture.
The viscosities of both inventive and comparative compositions are measured at 25°C using Lamy rheology make viscometer. The samples are placed in the viscosity cup and appropriate spindles are used. Spindles are chosen in the increasing order of viscosity. For eg: spindle M1 & M2 is used for Liquid to semi liquid formulas while M3 & M4 are used for semi thick to thicker formulas. The viscosity is measured at 30 sec.
The details of the viscosity results are as follows:
Table 4: Viscosity results:
Compositions Spindle No Time (sec) Speed (rpm) Viscosity mPa.s)
A
(Invention) M4 30 200 6 430 mPa.s
B
(Comparative) M3 30 200 3 600 mPa.s
The composition A according to the invention shows a higher viscosity than the comparative composition B.
I/We Claim:
1. Composition comprising:
a) at least one anionic surfactant;
b) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant;
c) at least one anionic associative polymer containing one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units;
d) at least one amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymer; and
e) an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
• a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
• a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
• water.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactants are chosen from anionic surfactants of alkyl(ether) sulfate type; preferably from C12-C14 alkyl(ether) sulfate salts; even better from lauryl ether sulfate salts.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) b) ranges from 0.01 % to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better from 1% to 10% by weight, and even better from 1.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers comprise:
(a) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (VIII) below:
in which formula R1 denotes H or CH3, and
(b) at least one hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (IX) below:
in which formula R1 denotes H or CH3, R2 denoting a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymers are crosslinked, and preferably chosen from acrylates/C10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate crosspolymers.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of the (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymer(s) c) ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.05 to 2% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 to 1% by weight, and better from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) b) to the total amount of (meth)acrylic anionic associative polymer(s) c) ranges from 0.1 to 100; preferably from 0.5 to 40; more preferentially from 1 to 30; better from 1.1 to 25; even better from 2 to 20; and better still from 5 to 15.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymers are chosen from the polymers comprising one
or more cationic or quaternized acrylamide and/or methacrylamide unit(s),
preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
in which:
- R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- R, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical, preferably a linear C1-C6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals;
- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical;
- R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amphoteric or cationic vinylic polymers are chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/
(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium
chloride/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, and more preferably
acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide
/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic
acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide/
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/ (C1-C6 alkyl)
(meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (C1-C6 alkyl) (meth)acrylate /
(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; more preferably acrylic acid/
methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers,
- copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and of acrylamide,
- and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane (i) is of formula (A):
R’3SiO(R’2SiO)pSiR’3 (A)
wherein:
- R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and
- p is an integer of from 500 to 2 000, preferably of from 1 000 to 2 000; and preferably is trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
amino silicone (ii) is of formula (B):
XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (B)
wherein:
- R, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- X, same or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C1-C6-alkoxy group; preferably X is R,
- A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated
amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical,
preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; R2, same
or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4-alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen
atom; R3 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2-
, and x is 0 or 1;
and
- m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600;
preferably A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2-, and x is 1.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the
mixture of emulsifiers comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers chosen from:
(i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, especially (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:
R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH with:
- R3 representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and
- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferentially between 2 and 150;
and more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE);
(ii) polyoxyalkylene (C8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers;
(iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan (C8-C32) fatty acid esters, especially polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan (C10-C24) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and;
(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C8-C32) fatty acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C10-C24) fatty acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion e) has D50 particle size from 100 to 300 nm, preferably from 150 to 250 nm, more preferably from 150 to 225 nm, and even more preferentially from 160 to 200 nm, expressed in volume.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one cationic polysaccharide, and preferably chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; preferentially from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof.
16. Process for treating keratin fibres, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, comprising the application onto the keratin fibres of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.
| # | Name | Date |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 202221069459-STATEMENT OF UNDERTAKING (FORM 3) [01-12-2022(online)].pdf | 2022-12-01 |
| 2 | 202221069459-REQUEST FOR EXAMINATION (FORM-18) [01-12-2022(online)].pdf | 2022-12-01 |
| 3 | 202221069459-POWER OF AUTHORITY [01-12-2022(online)].pdf | 2022-12-01 |
| 4 | 202221069459-FORM 18 [01-12-2022(online)].pdf | 2022-12-01 |
| 5 | 202221069459-FORM 1 [01-12-2022(online)].pdf | 2022-12-01 |
| 6 | 202221069459-DECLARATION OF INVENTORSHIP (FORM 5) [01-12-2022(online)].pdf | 2022-12-01 |
| 7 | 202221069459-COMPLETE SPECIFICATION [01-12-2022(online)].pdf | 2022-12-01 |
| 8 | 202221069459-Proof of Right [18-01-2023(online)].pdf | 2023-01-18 |