Composition comprising a thickening polymer, a derivative of
menthol and a particular non-ionic surfactant
The present invent io n relates to a co mposit io n co mpris ing in a
hydro-alcoho lic medium a thickening polymer, a derivat ive of ment ho l
and a part icular no n-io nic surfactant.
The present invent ion also relates to a method of cosmetic
treatment wherein such a composit io n is applied on kerat in substrates.
Fina lly the present invent io n relates to the use o f such a
co mposit io n for conferring a feeling o f freshness and cleanliness to
kerat in substrates, and in part icular to human keratin substrates such
as the skin, the scalp and the hair.
The hair and the scalp are generally damaged and embrit t led by
the act io n o f external at mospheric agents such as light and bad
weather, external aggression such as pollutio n, and also by mechanical
or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching,
permanent-waving and/or relaxing. These damages can induce an
increased sebum secret io n by the scalp.
Furthermore, in certain circumstances such as under sun or
hamam exposures, the keratin substrates, such as the sk in and the
scalp, are likely to sweat, lead ing to sebum secret ion. An excess o f
sebum secret ion o n the scalp renders the hair greasy and decreases it s
cosmet ic and st yling properties, such as its appearance and
manageabilit y.
In addit io n, the presence o f sebum reduces t he freshness
perceived o n the scalp and t he hair and provides a sensation o f o ily
feel.
This greasy aspect of the hair is also a nuisance fro m an
aest het ic point of view for the consumers. In part icular, the hair looks
lank and heavy.
Therefore, there is a real need to develop composit ions that are
able to reduce the quant it y o f sebum present on the skin, the ha ir or
the scalp.
These co mposit ions shall remedy the drawbacks ment io ne d
above, and shall co nfer good st yling properties, such as a good
manageabilit y, to the hair, and provide a fresh and co mfortable feel to
the scalp or the skin.
The Applicant has now discovered that a co mposit io n,
co mprising in a hydro-alcoho lic medium a thickening polymer, a
derivat ive o f ment ho l and a part icular non-io nic surfactant, makes it
possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.
In part icular, it has been found that such a co mbinat io n is able
to significantly reduce the quantit y o f sebum on the scalp, for example
post hamam exposure, decreasing t hus the o ily feel on scalp and hair
and leading to a better manageabilit y and a better styling of the hair.
Thus, the subject o f the invent io n is especially a co mposit io n
co mprising
- one or more thickening polymer(s),
- one or more compound(s) of formula (I)
O
R1
(I)
wherein, R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated
or unsaturated, C1 -C1 2 alkyl radical, optionally subst ituted by o ne or
more hydroxyl groups, and/or one or more NRR’ groups wit h R and R’,
ident ical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1 -C4 alkyl radical,
- one or more non-io nic surfactant(s) chosen fro m oxyalkylenated C8 -
C3 0 fatty alco ho ls,
- one or more water-soluble organic so lvent(s) chosen fro m alco ho ls
co mprising a C1 -C8 alkyl chain, and
- water.
The co mposit io n o f the present invent ion is able to reduce t he
quant it y o f sebum on t he skin and the scalp. In other words, the
co mposit io n adsorbs the sebum and decreases the greasy feel perceived
on the sca lp. It leads to a fresh and clean sensat io n and a sustained
cooling and soothing on the skin and the scalp.
The co mposit io n according to the present invent io n preferably
aims at a leave-on applicat ion on the hair and on t he scalp, which
result s in better manageabilit y, and a cleaner feel when in contact wit h
kerat inous substrate along w it h substantial cooling o f t he dermal la yer
supporting the kerat inous substrate and sebum absorptio n.
Preferably, the co mposit io n according to the present invent io n
is a cleansing agent that can be used as a leave-on product, having
good sebum absorption property together wit h a substantial cooling
effect, which then conducts to an important feeling o f cleanliness and
freshness on the scalp and the hair, after applicatio n.
In particular, the co mposit io n according to the present
invent io n decreases the warm feeling on the scalp and on the hair. The
feeling of freshness is significant, and is of the order of 7°C directly
after application.
In addit io n, ha ir treated with the co mposit ion o f the present
invent io n is lighter, more manageable and easier to style. Its
appearance is improved; the hair looks less greasy and shinier.
The co mposit io n also helps to protect the hair against external
aggressio n such as pollutio n.
The present invent ion also relates to a method of cosmetic
treatment of kerat in substrates, in part icular hu man keratin substrates
such as the sk in, t he scalp and the hair, wherein the cosmet ic
co mposit io n o f the invent io n is applied on said kerat in substrates.
Another object of the present invent io n concerns the use o f t he
co mposit io n o f the present invent io n for conferring a feeling o f
freshness and cleanliness to keratin substrates, and in part icular to
human kerat in substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the hair.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages o f the
invent io n will emerge even more clearly on reading the descript io n
and the example that follo ws.
In that which fo llo ws and unless otherwise indicated, the limit s
of a range of values are included wit hin this range, in particular in the
expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present
descript io n is equivalent valent to the expression "one or more".
Thickening polymers
The co mposit io n according to the present invent io n co mprises
one or more thickening polymer(s).
The term "t hickening polymer" is understood to mean, wit hin
the meaning o f the present invent io n, a polymer capable, by it s
presence, o f increasing the viscosit y o f the medium by at least 50
cent ipo ises at 25ºC and at a shear rate of 1 s-1 . Preferably, the solut io n
obtained by dissolving t he t hickening polymer at 1 % by weight in
water or in a 50/50 by weight water/alcohol mixture exhibit s a
viscosit y at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1 which is greater than 100
cent ipo ises. These viscosit ies can be measured using in part icu lar
visco meters or rheometers having cone-plate geometry.
Preferably, the thickening polymer(s) are chosen fro m the
thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or met hacrylic unit s.
The term "polymer co mpris ing acrylic and/or met hacrylic
unit s" is understood to mean, wit hin the meaning o f the present
invent io n, a polymer result ing fro m t he polymerizatio n o f o ne or more
mo no mers including one or more monomers of structure (II):
H2C
R1
COR2
C
(II)
- R1 denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 -C4 alk yl
radical,
- R2 denoting a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy radical, a linear o r
branched C1 -C4 alk yl radical, an NR3 R4 radical or a linear or branched
C1 -C3 0 alko xy radical, optionally subst ituted by o ne or more hydro xyl
radicals or by a quaternary ammonium radical,
- R3 and R4 denoting a hydrogen atom or an optionally
oxyalkylenated C1 -C3 0 alkyl radical, it being possible for the alkyl
radical to comprise a sulfonic group.
Preferably, R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.
The thickening polymer(s) is (are) preferably chosen fro m
thickening polymers co mprising acrylic and/or methacrylic unit s, and
more preferably fro m:
(a) acrylic associat ive thickeners,
(b) crosslinked acrylic acid ho mopolymers and copolymers,
(c) crosslinked copolymers o f (met h)acrylic acid and o f (C1 -C6 )alkyl
acrylate,
(d) non-io nic ho mopolymers and copolymers co mpris ing ethylenically
unsaturated mono mers o f ester and/or amide type,
(e) ammonium acrylate ho mopolymers or copolymers o f ammo niu m
acrylate and of acrylamide,
(f) (meth)acrylamido(C1 -C4 )alkylsulfonic acid ho mopolymers and
copolymers,
(g) crosslinked met hacrylo ylo xy(C1 -C4 )alkyltri(C1 -C4 )alkylammonium
ho mopolymers and copolymers, and
(h) mixtures thereof.
(a) The t hickening polymers can preferably be chosen fro m
acrylic associat ive thickeners.
The term "associat ive thickener" is understood to mean,
according to the invent io n, an amphiphilic t hickener co mprising bot h
hydrophilic units and hydropho bic unit s, in part icular co mprising at
least one C8 -C3 0 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
Ment io n may be made, as acrylic associative thickeners which
can be used in the co mposit io n according to the invent io n, o f acrylic
associat ive po lymers chosen from:
(i) no n-io nic amphiphilic polymers co mprising at least one fatty cha in
and at least one hydrophilic unit ;
(ii) anio n ic amphiphilic polymers co mprising at least one hydrophilic
unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;
(iii) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic
unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;
(iv) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers co mprising at least one
hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;
the fatty chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
(i) The acrylic associat ive polymers may preferably be chosen
fro m no n-io nic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatt y
chain and at least one hydrophilic unit ; the fatty chains having fro m 8
to 30 carbon atoms.
These non-io nic amphiphilic polymers can preferably be chosen
fro m:
- copolymers o f C1 -C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and o f
amphiphilic mo no mers co mprising at least one fatt y chain (fo r
example oxyethylenated (C8 -C2 2 )alkyl acrylates), such as, for example,
the oxyet hylenated methyl methacrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer
so ld by Go ldschmidt under the name Antil 208; and
- copolymers o f hydrophilic met hacrylates or acrylates and o f
hydrophobic mo no mers co mpris ing at least one fatty chain (for
example (C8 -C2 2 )alkyl (met h)acrylates), such as, for examp le,
polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
(ii) The acrylic associat ive polymers may preferably be chosen
fro m anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic
unit and at least one unit having a fatt y chain; t he fatty chains having
fro m 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
These anio n ic amphiphilic polymers can be chosen fro m those
co mprising at least one hydrophilic unit o f unsaturated olefinic
carboxylic acid t ype and at least one hydrophobic unit o f unsaturated
carboxylic acid (C1 0 -C3 0 )alkyl ester type. The y are preferably chosen
fro m those for which the hydrophilic unit o f unsaturated olefinic
carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of following formula
(III):
H2C
R3 O
C C OH
(III)
in which, R3 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 , that is to say acrylic acid,
met hacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid unit s, and for which the
hydrophobic unit o f unsaturated carbo xylic acid (C1 0 -C3 0 )alkyl ester
type corresponds to the mo no mer of following formula (IV):
H2C OR5
R4 O
C C
(IV)
in which, R4 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (that is to say acrylate,
met hacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate unit s) or
CH3 (methacrylate units), R5 denoting a C1 0 -C3 0 and preferably C1 2 -C2 2
alkyl radical.
(C1 0 -C3 0 )alkyl esters o f unsaturated carboxylic acids in
accordance wit h the invent io n co mprise, for example, lauryl acrylate,
stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate,
and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl met hacrylate, stear yl
met hacrylate, decyl met hacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl
met hacrylate.
Anio nic amphiphilic polymers o f this t ype are, for example,
described and prepared according to Patents US-3 915 921 and US-4
509 949.
The anionic amphiphilic polymers which can be used in the
context of the present invent ion can more particularly denote polymer s
formed from a mixture of mo no mers compris ing:
- acrylic acid and one or more esters of following formula (V):
H2C
R6
OR7
O
C C
(V)
in which, R6 denotes H or CH3 , R7 denoting an alkyl radical having
fro m 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent, such as, fo r
example, those const ituted of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic
acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C1 0 -C3 0 alkyl acrylate
(hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking
polymerizable mo no mer, or 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid
(hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C1 0 -C3 0 alkyl acrylat e
(hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight o f crosslinking
polymerizable mo no mer, and
- essent ially acrylic acid and lauryl met hacrylate, such as the product
formed fro m 66% by weight o f acrylic acid and 34% by weight o f
lauryl met hacrylate.
The said crosslinking agent is a mono mer co mprising a
CH2 C
group with at least one other polymerizable group, the
unsaturated bonds o f which are no n-conjugated with respect to one
another. Ment ion ma y in particular be made o f po lya llyl et hers, suc h
as, in particular, polyallyl sucrose and polyallyl pentaeryt hrit o l.
Amo ng the said polymers above, preference is very part icularly
given, according to the present invent ion, to the products so ld by
Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2 and
Carbopol 1382, and more preferably st ill Pemulen TR1, and to the
product sold by S.E.P.C. under the name Coatex SX.
Ment io n ma y also be made, as anio n ic amphiphilic polymers
having fatt y chains, o f the copolymer of met hacrylic acid, methyl
acrylate and dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate o f
ethoxylated alco ho l so ld under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by
Amercho l.
Ment io n may be made, as other anionic amphiphilic polymer s
having fatty chains, o f those co mpris ing at least one acrylic mo no mer
having sulfonic group(s), in free or partially or completely neutralized
form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.
The hydrophobic portio n present in the polymers of t he
invent io n preferably co mprises fro m 8 to 22 carbo n atoms, more
preferably st ill fro m 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more part icularly fro m
12 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the sulfo nic polymers in accordance wit h the
invent io n are part ially or co mpletely neutralized by an inorganic base
(sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) onia) or an
organic base, such as mo no-, di- or triet hano lamine, an
amino methylpropanedio l, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such
as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
The sulfo nic amphiphilic polymers in accordance wit h the
present invent io n generally have a number-average mo lecular weight
rang ing fro m 1000 to 20 000 000 g/mo l, preferably ranging fro m 20
000 to 5 000 000 g/mo l and more preferably still ranging from 100 000
to 1 500 000 g/mo l.
The sulfo nic amphiphilic polymers according to the invent io n
ma y or ma y not be crosslinked. Crosslinked amphiphilic po lymers are
preferably chosen.
When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be
chosen fro m polyo lefinically unsaturated co mpounds co mmo nly used
for the crosslinking o f po lymers o btained by radical polymerizatio n.
Ment io n may be made, for examp le, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether,
dipropylene glyco l diallyl ether, polyglycol dia llyl et hers, triethylene
glyco l divinyl ether, hydroquino ne diallyl et her, ethylene glyco l
di(met h)acrylate or tetraethylene glyco l di(meth)acrylate,
trimet hylo lpropane triacrylate, met hylenebisacrylamide,
met hylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl
maleate, tetraallylet hylenediamine, tetraallyloxyet hane,
trimet hylo lpropane diallyl et her, allyl (met h)acrylate, allyl ethers o f
alcoho ls o f the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl et hers o f
polyfunct ional alco ho ls, and also allyl esters o f phosphoric and/or
vinylpho sphonic acid derivatives, or mixt ures of these compounds.
Methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or
trimet hylo lpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) will more part icularly be
used. The degree o f crosslinking will generally vary fro m 0.01 mo l%
to 10 mo l% and more particularly fro m 0.2 mo l% to 2 mo l%, wit h
respect to the polymer.
The acrylic mo no mers having sulfo nic group(s) are chosen in
particular fro m (meth)acrylamido(C1 -C2 2 )alkylsulfonic acids and N-
(C1 -C2 2 )alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C1 -C2 2 )alkylsulfonic acids, such as
undecylacrylamidomet hanesulfo nic acid, and also their part ially or
co mpletely neutralized forms.
More preferably, use will be made o f (meth)acrylamido(C1 -
C2 2 )alkylsulfonic acids, such as, for examp le,
acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid,
acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-
met hylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic
acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfo nic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-
trimet hylpentanesulfo nic acid, 2-met hacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid
or 2-acryla mido-2,6-dimet hyl-3-heptanesulfo nic acid, and also their
partially or completely neutralized forms.
More particu larly, use can be made of 2-acrylamido-2-
met hylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS® ), and also it s part ially or
co mpletely neutralized forms.
The amphiphilic polymers in accordance wit h the invent io n can
in particular be chosen fro m random amphiphilic AMPS® polymer s
modified by react ion wit h an n-mo no(C6 -C2 2 )alkylamine or a di[n-(C6 -
C2 2 )alkyl]amine, such as those described in Patent Applicat ion WO
00/31154; the polymers described in this patent applicat io n form part
of the co ntent of the present descript ion. These polymers can also
co mprise other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic mo no mer s
chosen, for examp le, fro m (meth)acrylic acids, their β-subst ituted
alkyl derivat ives or their esters obtained wit h mo noalcohols or monoor
polya lkylene glyco ls, (met h)acrylamides, vinylp yrrolido ne, male ic
anhydride, it aconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures o f t hese
co mpounds.
The polymers o f the invent io n can be chosen fro m amphiphilic
copolymers o f AMPS® and o f at least one ethylenically unsaturated
hydrophobic mo no mer co mpris ing at least one hydrophobic portion
having fro m 8 to 50 carbon atoms, mo re preferably fro m 8 to 22
carbon atoms, more preferably st ill from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and
more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
These same copolymers can addit io nally co mprise one or more
ethylenically unsaturated mono mers not compris ing a fatty chain, such
as (meth)acrylic acids, their β-subst ituted alkyl derivatives or their
esters obtained wit h mo noalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glyco ls,
(meth)acrylamides, vinylp yrro lidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid
or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
These copolymers are described in particular in Patent
Applicat io n EP-A-750 899, in Patent US 5 089 578 and in the
fo llo wing Yotaro Morishima publications:
- "Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their
nanostructures", Chinese Journal o f Polymer Science, Vo l. 18, No. 40,
(2000), 323-336;
- "Micelle format ion o f random copolymers o f sodium 2-
(acrylamido)-2-met hylpropanesulfonate and a non-io nic surfactant
macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light
scattering", Macromo lecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, 3694-3704;
- "So lut ion properties o f micelle networks formed by non-io nic
mo iet ies covalent ly bound to a polyelectrolyt e: salt effects on
rheo logical behavior", Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332;
- "St imuli responsive a mphiphilic copolymers o f sodium 2-
(acrylamido)-2-met hylpropanesulfonate and associat ive
macromonomers", Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 1999, 40(2),
220-221.
The ethylenically unsaturated hydropho bic mo no mers o f these
spec ific copolymers are preferably chosen fro m the acrylates or
acrylamides o f fo llowing formula (VI):
CH2
R8
Y CH2 CH O R9
O
C
C
(R10)
x (VI)
in which, R8 and R1 0 , which are identical or different, denote a
hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 -C6 alkyl radical (preferably
met hyl); Y denotes O or NH; R9 denotes a hydropho bic hydrocarbo n
radical comprising at least fro m 8 to 50 carbo n atoms, more preferably
fro m 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably st ill fro m 6 to 18 carbo n
atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and x denotes
a number of mo les of alkylene oxide and varies from 0 to 100.
The R9 radical is preferably chosen from linear C6 -C1 8 (fo r
example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl or n-dodecyl) alkyl
radicals or branched or cyclic (for example c yclododecane (C1 2 ) or
adamantane (C1 0 )) alk yl radicals; C6 -C1 8 perfluoroalkyl radicals (fo r
example the group of formula –(CH2 )2 -(CF2 )9 -CF3 ); the cho lesteryl
(C2 7 ) radical or a cho lestero l ester residue, such as the cho lester yl
oxyhexanoate group; or polyc yclic aromat ic groups, such as
naphthalene or pyrene. Preference is mo re part icular ly given, among
these radicals, to linear alkyl radicals and more particularly to the ndodecyl
radical.
According to a particularly preferred form o f t he invent io n, the
mo no mer of formula (VI) co mprises at least one alkylene oxide unit
(x ≥ 1) and preferably a polyo x yalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene
chain preferably consists o f et hylene oxide unit s and/or of propylene
oxide unit s and more particularly still consists of ethylene oxide units.
The number o f o xyalkylene unit s generally varies fro m 3 to 100, more
preferably from 3 to 50 and more preferably still from 7 to 25.
Ment io n may be made, amo ng these polymers, of:
- copo lymers which are or are not crosslinked and which are or are not
neutralized, co mpris ing fro m 15% to 60% by weight o f AMPS® units
and fro m 40% to 85% by weight o f (C8 -C1 6 )alkyl(meth)acrylamide
unit s or o f C8 -C1 6 )alkyl (met h)acrylate units, wit h respect to the
polymer, such as those described in Application EP-A-750 899; and
- terpolymers co mprising fro m 10 mo l% to 90 mo l% o f acrylamide
unit s, fro m 0.1 mo l% to 10 mo l% of AMPS® unit s and from 5 mo l% to
80 mo l% o f n-(C6 -C1 8 )alkylacrylamide unit s, such as those described
in Patent US-5 089 578.
Ment io n may also be made o f copolymers o f co mpletely
neutralized AMPS® and o f dodecyl methacrylate, and a lso noncrosslinked
and crosslinked copolymers o f AMPS® and o f ndodecylmet
hacrylamide, such as those described in the
abovement io ned papers by Morishima.
Ment io n will more part icular ly be made of the copolymer s
const ituted of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS® )
unit s of fo llowing formula (VII):
O NH
CH3
CH3
C CH2SO3 - X+
(VII)
in which, X+ is a proton, an alkali metal catio n, an alkaline earth metal
cat ion or the ammo n ium io n,
and of unit s of fo llowing formula (VIII):
CH2
R11
O CH2 CH2
O
O R12
C
C
x (VIII)
in which, x denotes an integer varying from 3 to 100, preferably fro m
5 to 80 and more preferably fro m 7 to 25, R1 1 has the same meaning as
that ind icated above for R8 in t he formula (VI) and R1 2 denotes a
linear or branched C6 -C2 2 and more preferably C1 0 -C2 2 alkyl.
The polymers which are part icularly preferred are those fo r
which x = 25, R1 1 denotes methyl and R1 2 represents n-dodecyl; t he y
are described in the abovement io ned papers by Morishima.
The polymers for which X+ denotes sodium or ammonium ar e
more particularly preferred.
(iii) The acrylic associat ive thickeners may preferably be
chosen fro m cationic amphiphilic polymers co mpris ing at least one
hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain; t he fatt y
chains having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
The cat io nic amphiphilic polymers which can be used in t he
co mposit io n according to the present invent ion are preferably chosen
fro m polyacrylates having aminated side groups.
The polyacrylates having quaternized or non-quaternized
aminated side groups possess, for examp le, hydrophobic groups o f the
steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcoho l) or (C1 0 -C3 0 )alkyl
PEG-20 itaconate type.
Ment io n may be made, as examples o f po lyacrylates having
aminated side chains, o f the polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 or
Structure Plus fro m Nat ional Starch.
(iv) The acrylic associat ive polymers may preferably be chosen
fro m amphoteric amphiphilic polymers co mprising at least one
hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain; t he fatt y
chains having from 10 to 30 carbon ato ms.
Amo ng these amphoteric amphiphilic polymers, ment io n ma y
be made o f methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic
acid/C1 0 -C3 0 alk yl methacrylate copolymers, the alk yl radical
preferably being a stearyl radical.
(b) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen fro m
crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
Amo ng these crosslinked acrylic acid homopo lymers, ment io n
ma y be made o f those crosslinked by an allyl ether of an alcohol of the
sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the name s
Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 and
Carbopol Ultrez 10 Po lymer by Lubrizo l or the products sold under the
names Synt halen M and Synt halen K by 3 VSA, Cosmedia SP® or
crosslinked sodium polyacrylate co mprising 90% o f dry matter and
10% of water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium po lyacrylate as inverse
emulsion co mpris ing approximately 60% of dry act ive matter, an oil
(hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both
so ld by Cognis, or part ially neutralized crosslinked sodium
polyacrylates occurring in the form o f a n inverse emulsio n co mprising
at least one polar o il, for example that sold under the name Luvigel®
EM by BASF.
(c) The t hickening polymers can preferably be chosen fro m
crosslinked copolymers o f (meth)acrylic acid and o f (C1 -C6 )alkyl
acrylate.
Amo ng these crosslinked copolymers o f (met h)acrylic acid and
of (C1 -C6 )alkyl acrylate, ment io n ma y be made o f the product so ld
under the name Viscoatex 538C by Coatex, which is a crosslinked
copolymer o f met hacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous
dispersio n co mprising 38% of act ive material, or the product sold
under the name Aculyn 33 by Rohm & Haas, which is a crosslinked
copolymer o f acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous
dispersion co mpris ing 28% o f act ive material. Ment io n ma y mor e
particularly be made of t he crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylat e
copolymer in the form of an aqueous 30% dispersion manufactured and
so ld under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by Noveon.
(d) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen fro m
non-io nic ho mopolymers and copolymers co mpris ing ethylenically
unsaturated monomers onomers of ester and/or amide type.
Amo ng these non-io nic ho mopolymers or copolymer s
co mprising et hylenically unsaturated mono mers o f ester and/or amide
type, ment ion may be made o f the products so ld under the names of:
Cyanamer P250 by Cyt ec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by US
Cosmet ics (met hyl met hacrylate/ethylene glyco l dimethacrylat e
copolymer); Acrylo id B66 by Rohm & Haas (but yl
met hacrylate/met hyl met hacrylate copolymer); or BPA 500 by Ko bo
(polymet hyl methacrylate).
(e) The t hickening polymers can preferably be chosen fro m
ammo nium acrylate ho mopolymers or copo lymers of ammo nium
acrylate and of acrylamide.
Amo ng ammo n ium acrylate ho mopolymers, ment ion ma y be
made o f the product so ld under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by
Hoechst.
Amo ng copolymers o f ammo nium acrylate and o f acrylamide,
ment io n may be made of the product sold under the na me Bozepol C
Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 so ld by Hoechst (they are described
and prepared in the documents FR-2 416 723, US-2 798 053 and US-2
923 692).
(f) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen fro m
(meth)acrylamido(C1 -C4 )alkylsulfonic acid ho mopolymers and
copolymers.
Amo ng these (meth)acrylamido(C1 -C4 )alkylsulfonic acid
ho mopolymers and copolymers, preference is preferably given to the
use o f crosslinked polymers.
More particularly st ill, the y are partially or co mpletely
neutralized.
These are water-so luble or water-swellable polymers.
Ment io n may in part icular be made, among these polymers, of:
- polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid,
- polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid,
- polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid,
- poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid),
- poly(2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic onic acid),
- poly(2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfo nic acid).
Polymers o f this t ype and in particular crosslinked and
partially or completely neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2-
met hylpropanesulfonic acids) are known, described and prepared in
Patent Applicat ion DE-196 25 810.
They are generally characterized in that they co mprise,
rando mly distributed:
- fro m 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of follo wing formula (IX):
O NH
CH3
CH3
CH2SOC 3 - X+
(IX)
in which, X+ denotes a cat ion or a mixt ure of cat ions, including H+ ,
and
- fro m 0.01% to 10% by weight of at least one crosslinking unit
having at least two olefinic double bonds;
the proportions by weight being defined wit h respect to the total
weight of the polymer.
X+ represents a cation or a mixture of cat io ns chosen in
particular fro m a proton, an alkali metal cat ion, a cat ion equivalent to
that of an alkaline earth metal, or the ammonium io n.
Preferably, the crosslinked and neutralized poly(2-acrylamido -
2-met hylpropanesulfonic acid) co mprises fro m 98% to 99.5% by
weight of unit s o f formula (IX) and from 0.5% to 2% by weight o f
crosslinking unit s.
The crosslinking unit s having at least two olefinic double
bonds are chosen, for example, fro m dipropylene glyco l diallyl ether,
polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glyco l divinyl ether,
hydroquino ne diallyl ether, tetraallyloxyethane or other polyfunctional
alcoho l allyl or vinyl ethers, tetraethylene glyco l diacrylate,
triallylamine, trimet hylo lpropane diallyl et her,
met hylenebisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.
The crosslinking unit s having at least two olefinic double
bonds are more part icularly st ill chosen fro m those corresponding to
the fo llo wing general formula (X):
H C 2
O
CH2
O
R13
CH2 CHC 3
3 (X)
in which, R1 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1 -C4 alkyl and more
particularly met hyl (trimet hylo lpropane triacrylate).
The acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS® )
polymers according to the present invent ion generally have a number20
average mo lecular weight ranging fro m ranging fro m 50 000 to
10 000 000 g/mo l, and preferably ranging fro m 80 000 to 8 000 000
g/mo l.
Amo ng these AMPS® polymers, ment io n may preferably be
made of:
- crosslinked sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfo nate
polymers, such as for examp le the product sold under the name
Simulgel 800 (CTFA name : Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate),
crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-met hyl propane sulfonate
polymers, such as for example the polymers described in the patent EP
0 815 928 B1, or the product sold under the trade name Hostacer in
AMPS by C lariant (INCI name : Ammonium Polydimét hylt auramide);
- AMPS/acrylamide copolymers, in part icular crosslinked acrylamide/
sodium acrylamido-2-met hyl propane sulfonate copo lymers such as for
example the product sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (INCI name :
Polyacrylamide/C1 3 -C1 4 Isoparaffin/ Laureth-7) or the product so ld
under the name Simulgel 600 by Seppic (INCI name :
Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/ Isohexadecane/
Polysorbate-80);
- AMPS /vinylp yrro lidone copolymers or AMPS /vinylformamide
copolymers, such as for example the copolymer used in the product
so ld under the name Aristoflex AVC by Clariant (CTFA name :
Ammo nium Acryloyldiméthylt aurate/ VP Copolymer) neutralized by
sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate;
- AMPS /sodium acrylate copolymers, such as for example the
AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer used in the product sold under the
name Simulgel EG by Seppic or under the name Sepino v EM
(CTFA name: Hydroxyet hyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate
copolymer);
- AMPS /hydroxyet hyl acrylate copolymers, such as for example the
AMPS /hydroxyét hyl acrylate copolymère used in the product so ld
under the name Simulgel NS by Seppic (CTFA name: Hydro xyeth yl
Acrylate/Sodium Acrylo yldimet hyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane
(And) Polysorbate 60) or the sodium acrylamido-2-met hyl propane
sulfo nate /Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer so ld under the name
Sepino v EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium
Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).
(g) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen fro m
crosslinked met hacrylo ylo xy(C1 -C4 )alkyltri(C1 -C4 )alkylammo niu m
ho mopolymers and copolymers.
Amo ng these crosslinked methacryloyloxy(C1 -C4 )alkyltri(C1 -
C4 )alkylammonium ho mopolymers and copolymers, ment io n may be
made o f crosslinked polymers o f met hacrylo ylo xy(C1 -C4 )alkyltri(C1 -
C4 )alkylammonium salt s, such as the po lymers obtained by
ho mopolymerizatio n of dimethylaminoethyl met hacrylate quaternized
by methyl chloride or by copolymerization o f acrylamide wit h
dimet hylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by met hyl chloride, the
ho mo- or copolymerizat io n being fo llo wed by crosslinking by an
olefinically unsaturated compound, in part icular
met hylenebisacrylamide.
Use ma y more part icularly be made of a crosslinked
acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80
by weight) copolymer in the form o f a dispersio n co mprising 50% by
weight of the said copolymer in mineral o il. This dispersio n is so ld
under the name of Salcare® SC 92 by Ciba. Use ma y also be made of a
crosslinked ho mopolymer o f met hacryloylo x yethyltrimethylammonium
chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer
in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are so ld under the
names of Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by Ciba.
Preferably, the t hickening polymer(s) is (are) chosen fro m
crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers.
The total amount of thickening polymer(s), which is (are)
present in t he co mposit io n according to the present invent io n,
preferably ranges fro m 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably fro m
0.02 to 1% by weight, and better still from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight,
relat ive to the total weight of the composition.
Compounds of formula (I)
The co mposit io n according to the present invent ion also
co mprises one or more compound(s) of fo r mula (I)
O
R1
(I)
wherein, R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated
or unsaturated, C1 -C1 2 alkyl radical, optionally subst ituted by o ne or
more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more NRR’ groups wit h R and R’,
ident ical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1 -C4 alkyl radical.
Preferably, R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated, C1 -C6 alkyl radical, subst ituted by one or
more hydroxyl groups. More preferably, R1 denotes a linear and
saturated C1 -C6 alkyl radical, subst ituted by one or more hydroxyl
groups, and better still by one or two hydroxyl groups.
Advantageously, the compound(s) o f formula (I) is (are) chosen
fro m mentho l, ment hoxy propanedio l, and mixture thereof.
The total amo u nt o f co mpound(s) of formula (I), which is (are)
present in t he co mposit io n according to the present invent io n,
preferably ranges fro m 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably
fro m 0.1 to 1% by weight, relat ive to the total weight o f t he
co mposit io n.
Non-ionic surfactants
The co mposit io n according to the present invent io n co mprises
one or more non-io nic surfactant(s) chosen fro m oxyalk ylenated C8 -
C3 0 fatty alco ho ls. These non-io nic surfactants are preferent ially
chosen from oxyet hylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alco ho ls.
The term “fatty alco ho l”, according to the present invent ion,
means an alcoho l co mpris ing linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated alkyl chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.
According to the present invent io n, an oxyalkylenated fatt y
alcoho l means a fatty alcoho l co mpris ing at least one oxyalkylenated
(alkylene oxide) unit, and an oxyet hylenated fatty alco ho l means a
fatty a lcoho l co mprising at least one oxyethylenated (ethylene oxide)
unit.
According to the present invent io n, such a fatty alco ho l
co mprises fro m 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably fro m 10 to 24
carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the fatty alco ho ls according to the present
invent io n co mprise a linear and saturated alkyl chain.
The oxyalkylene unit s are more part icularly oxyethylene or
oxypropylene unit s, or a co mbinat io n thereof, preferably oxyethylene
unit s.
The number o f oxyalkylene unit s, and particularly oxyethylene
unit s, advantageously ranges fro m 1 to 50, preferably fro m 2 to 30,
more preferably from 5 to 20, and better still from 10 to 15.
The oxya lkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alco ho l(s) used in t he present
invent io n is (are) preferably chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols
co mprising a C1 0 -C1 8 a lkyl chain and from 5 to 20 of o xyethylene
unit s, and more preferably fro m oxyet hylenated fatt y alco ho ls
co mprising a C1 0 -C1 8 alkyl chain and from 10 to 15 of oxyet hylene
unit s.
More preferably, t he oxyalkylenated fatty alco ho l is the
oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol containing 12 unit s of ethylene oxide.
The total amount of no n-io nic surfactant(s) chosen fro m
oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alco ho ls, which is (are) present in the
co mposit io n according to the present invent io n, preferably ranges fro m
0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably fro m 0.5 to 5% by weight,
relat ive to the total weight of the composition.
The co mposit io n according to the present invention may further
co mprise one or more addit ional non-io nic surfactant(s) different fro m
the above-described oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alco ho ls.
The non-io nic surfactant(s) that may be used in t he
co mposit io ns are described, for example, in the Handbook of
Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and
Londo n), 1991, pp. 116-178.
Examples o f addit io nal no n-io nic surfactants that ma y be
ment io ned include the following non-io nic surfactants:
- oxyalk ylenated (C8 -C2 4 )alkylphenols;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, glycerolated C8 -
C3 0 alcoho ls, co mprising one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated
C8 -C3 0 fatty acid amides;
- esters o f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 -C3 0
acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- esters o f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 -C3 0
acids and of sorbit o l, preferably oxyethylenated;
- fatty acid esters of sucrose;
- (C8 -C3 0 )alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C8 -C3 0 )alkenyl(poly)
glucosides, which are optio nally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene
unit s) and co mpris ing fro m 1 to 15 glucose unit s, (C8 -C3 0 )alkyl
(poly)glucoside esters;
- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;
- condensates o f ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide,
inter alia, alone or as mixtures;
- N-(C8 -C3 0 )alkylglucamine and N-(C8 -C3 0 )
acylmet hylglucamine derivat ives;
- aldobionamides;
- amine oxides;
- and mixtures thereof.
The oxyalkylene unit s are more part icularly oxyethylene or
oxypropylene unit s, or a co mbinat io n thereof, preferably oxyethylene
unit s.
The number o f mo les of et hylene oxide and/or propylene oxide
preferably ranges fro m 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and
better still fro m 2 to 50; the number of mo les o f glycero l ranges
especially from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.
Advantageously, the addit ional non-io nic surfactants according
to the invent ion do not comprise any oxypropylene unit s.
As examples o f glycero lated no nio nic surfactants, use is
preferably made o f mo noglycerolated or polyg lycerolated C8 -C4 0
alcoho ls, comprising fro m 1 to 50 mo l o f g lycero l and preferably fro m
1 to 10 mo l of glycerol.
Examples of saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils
that may be ment io ned inc lude derivat ives o f po lyo xyet hyleneglyco l
hydrogenated vegetable/plant o il. Preferably, the number o f
polyoxyethyleneglycol groups ranges from 1 to 250, more preferably
fro m 2-100, better still fro m 1 to 60, and even more preferably fro m
50 to 60.
The hydrogenated plant o il co mpo nent may or may not contain
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8 -C1 8 carbon chains
subst ituted by one or more ethyleneglyco l groups.
The addit ional non-io nic surfactant(s), different fro m the nonio
nic surfactant(s) chosen fro m oxyalk ylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alco ho ls,
is (are) advantageously chosen from:
- esters o f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 -C3 0 acids
and of sorbit o l, preferably oxyethylenated,
- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, and
- mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the addit ional non-io nic
surfactant(s), different fro m t he no n-io nic surfactant(s) chosen fro m
oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alco ho ls, is (are) preferably chosen fro m
saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, more preferably
fro m hydrogenated 50-60 oxyethylenated (i.e. 50-60 OE units) p lant
oils, better still fro m hydrogenated 50-60 oxyethylenated castor oils,
and even more preferably said addit ional no n-io nic surfactant is
PEG60 castor oil.
According to another preferred embodiment, in addit io n to the
above ment io ned saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant o ils,
the composit io n o f the present invention further co mprises o ne or more
esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 -C3 0 acids and
of sorbitol, preferably oxyet hylenated with 1 to 18 OE; more
preferably chosen fro m saturated or unsaturated, linear C8 -C3 0 acid s
and o f sorbit o l, oxyet hylenated preferably wit h 2 to 10 OE; and better
st ill fro m saturated or unsaturated, linear C1 0 -C2 4 acids and of sorbit o l,
oxyethylenated wit h 2 to 10 OE. An example that may be ment io ned is
sorbitan mo no laurate wit h 4 OE units.
In other words, according to this second preferred embodiment,
the addit io na l non-io n ic surfactants, different fro m the non-io nic
surfactant(s) chosen fro m oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alcohols, are a
mixture of saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils and o f
more esters o f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 -C3 0
acids and o f sorbit o l, preferably oxyethylenated wit h 1 to 18 OE.
Preferably, the addit ional non-io nic surfactants, different fro m the
non-io nic surfactant(s) chosen fro m oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatt y
alcohols, are a mixture o f PEG60 castor o il and o f sorbita n
mo no laurate wit h 4 OE unit s.
The amo u nt of the addit ional no n-io nic surfactant(s), different
fro m the non-io nic surfactant(s) chosen fro m oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0
fatty alco ho ls, and chosen fro m saturated or unsaturated,
oxyethylenated plant o ils, preferably ranges fro m 0.05 to 1% by
weight, more preferably of fro m 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and better still
fro m 0.15 to 0.35% by weight, relat ive to the total weight of the
co mposit io n.
The total a mount of addit ional no n-io nic surfactant(s) different
fro m the above-described oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alcoho ls, when
they are present in the co mposit io n o f t he invent io n, preferably ranges
fro m 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably fro m 0.1 to 1% by
weight, relat ive to the total weight of the composit io n.
Preferably, when said addit io nal non-ionic surfactants are
present in the composit ion of the inventio n, their total amount is lower
than the total amount of non-io nic surfactants chosen fro m
oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alco ho ls.
In other words, the weight ratio between the total amount o f
said addit ional no n-io nic surfactant(s) and the total amount of non25
io nic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatt y alcohols is
lower than 1.
Water-soluble organic solvents
The co mposit io n according to the present invent ion also
co mprises o ne or more water-so luble organic so lvent(s) chosen fro m
alcoho ls co mpris ing a C1 -C8 alkyl chain.
According to the present invent io n, a water-so luble so lvent ha s
a so lubilit y o f greater than or equal to 5% by weight in water at 25°C
and at atmospheric pressure.
Water-so luble organic so lvents are preferably chosen fro m
linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalco ho ls or diols
co mprising fro m 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alco ho l, isopropyl
alcoho l, hexylene glycol (2-met hyl-2,4-pentanedio l), neopent yl glyco l,
3-met hyl-1,5-pentanedio l, but ylene glycol, dipropylene glyco l or
propylene glyco l; aromatic alcoho ls, such as phenylet hyl a lcoho l;
polyo ls co mpris ing more t han two hydroxyl funct ional groups, such as
glycerol; polyo l ethers, such as, for example, et hylene glyco l
mo no methyl, mo noethyl and mo nobut yl ethers, propylene glyco l or it s
ethers, such as, for example, propylene glyco l mo no methyl ether; and
also diet hylene glyco l alk yl ethers, in particular C1 -C4 alkyl et hers,
such as, for example, diethylene glyco l mo noethyl ether or mo nobut yl
ether, alo ne or as a mixt ure.
Preferably, said water-so luble organic so lvent(s) is (are)
chosen fro m mo noalco ho ls co mpris ing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, diols
co mprising fro m 2 to 8 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and more
preferably fro m mo noalcoho ls co mpris ing fro m 2 to 8 carbon atoms,
such as ethanol.
The total amount of water-so luble organic so lvent(s) chosen
fro m alco ho ls co mpris ing a C1 -C8 a lkyl chain, which is (are) present in
the co mposit io n according to the invent ion, preferably ranges fro m 10
to 50% by weight, and more preferably fro m 15 to 40% by weight,
relat ive to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the weight rat io between the total a mount o f
co mpound(s) o f formula (I) and t he total amount of said water-so luble
organic so lvent(s) ranges fro m 0.01 to 1, more preferably fro m 0.01 5
to 0.8, and better still fro m 0.02 to 0.7.
Preferably, the weight rat io between the total a mount o f
thickening polymer(s) and t he total amount o f said water-so luble
organic so lvent(s) ranges fro m 0.001 to 0.01, and more preferably
fro m 0.002 to 0.008.
Water
The co mposit io n according to the present invent ion also
co mprises water, which preferably represents fro m 40 to 99% by
weight, more preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, better still fro m 55
to 80% by weight, and even more preferably fro m 65 to 80% by
weight, relat ive to the total weight of the composit io n.
Additives
The cosmet ic co mposit io n according to the present invent io n
ma y further co mprise one or more addit ive(s) other than t he
co mpounds o f the invent io n.
As add it ives that may be used in accordance wit h the invention,
ment io n may be made o f fatty substances; cat io nic, anio n ic or
amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof; ant idandruff agents; ant iseborrhoea
agents; agents for preventing hair loss and/or for
promoting hair regrowth; vitamins and provitamins including
pantheno l; sunscreens; mineral or organic pigments; sequestrants;
plast icizers; so lubilizers; acidifying agents; opacifiers or nacreous
agents; ant ioxidants; hydroxy acids; fragrances and preserving agents.
Needless to say, a perso n skilled in the art will take care to
select this or these optional addit ional compound(s) such that the
advantageous properties intrinsically associated wit h the co mposit io n
according to the invent io n are not, or are not substant ially, adversely
affected by the envisaged addit io n(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amo u nt, for
each o f them, of between 0.001 and 20% by weight, relat ive to the
total weight of the composit io n.
Preferably, the co mposit io n according to the invent io n is
provided in t he form o f a t hickened hydroalco ho lic lot ion or
co mposit io n, and more preferably in the form o f a hydroalcoholic
gelified lo t ion or composit io n.
Another objet of the present invent io n relates to a met hod o f
cosmet ic treatment o f kerat in substrates, in part icular human kerat in
substrates such as the skin, the sca lp and the hair, wherein a
co mposit io n, as described above, is applied on said kerat in substrates.
The co mposit io n may be applied to wet or dry kerat in
substrates, espec ially human kerat in substrates such as the skin, the
scalp and the hair. The present invent ion also relates to the use o f a
co mposit io n as described above for conferring a feeling o f freshness
and cleanliness to keratin substrates, and in part icular to huma n
kerat in substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the hair.
The fo llo wing example serves to illustrate the invent io n
wit hout, out, however, being limit ing in nature.
EXAMPLE
In the examp les that fo llo w and unless otherwise indicated, the
amounts are given as mass percentages of act ive material relative to
the total weight of the composit io n (% AM = % active matter).
1. Co mposit io ns
The fo llowing co mposit io ns A (invent ion) and B (comparative)
were prepared fro m the ingredients indic ated, in percentage by mass,
in the table belo w.
Co mposit io n A
(invent ion)
% AM
Co mposit io n B
(comparat ive)
% AM
Crosslinked carbo xyvinylic
ho mopolymer ( 1 ) 0.125 0.125
L-mentho l 0.5 0.5
Oxyethylenated hydrogenated
castor oil (60 OE)
0.25 0.25
Oxyethylenated lauryl alco ho l
(12 OE)
1 -
Oxyethylenated hydrogenated
castor oil (40 OE)
- 1
Polyo xyethylenated (4) sorbitan
mo no laurate (polysorbate-21)
0.5 0.5
Ethano l 25 25
Fragrances, colours Qs Qs
Water Qs 100 Qs 100
( 1 ) Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer from Lubrizol
2. Method
5 squares (sites) of 2cm*2cm have been drawn on each upper
part and lower part of forearm o f both hands o f two vo lunteers. I n
other words, 20 squares have been drawn per vo lunteer (giving 40
squares in total).
0.0025g of refined coconut oil were then poured on each of the
40 squares to simu late sebum secret ion.
The amo u nt of oil o f 10 out of 20 squares on each vo lunteer
were measured and corresponded to the baselines (giving 20 baselines
in total).
The measurement o f the amount of oil was based on grease spot
photometry. The mat tape o f the Sebumet er® was brought into contact
wit h the skin or the scalp. It became transparent in relation to the
sebum on the surface of the measurement area. The tape was the n
inserted into the aperture of the device and the transparency was
measured by a photocell. The light transmission represents the sebu m
content.
Then, 0.1g of co mposit io ns (A) or (B) were randomly poured
on the 10 le ft squares of each vo lunteer (giving 5 sites for composit io n
A and 5 sites for co mposit ion B, per vo lunteer). After a leave-on time
of 10 minutes, each square was dabbed 12 times wit h a cotton pad (2*2
cm, 0.5 mm thick) during 30 seconds in total before measuring the
amount of oil.
3. Results
The sebumeter readings measured before and aft er app licat io n
of co mposit ions (A) or (B), as well as the ir difference, ar e
respect ively ment io ned in tables 1 and 2 below.
Table 1: result s obtained for the composit io n A (invent io n)
Oil co ncentrat ion
before
co mposit io n
Oil co ncentrat ion
after composit io n
applicat io n
Difference
between before
and after
applicat io n
(μg/cm²)
(μg/cm²) co mposit io n
applicat io n (%)
213 133 37.6
209 155 25.8
225 138 38.7
211 150 28.9
208 162 22.1
230 180 21.7
227 206 9.3
202 171 15.3
253 157 37.9
204 183 10.3
Average 218.2 163.5 24.8
Table 2: result s obtained for the composit io n B (comparat ive)
Oil co ncentrat ion
before
co mposit io n
applicat io n
(μg/cm²)
Oil co ncentrat ion
after composit io n
applicat io n
(μg/cm²)
Difference
between before
and after
co mposit io n
applicat io n (%)
225 176 21.8
218 169 22.5
218 197 9.6
225 194 13.8
211 164 22.3
220 183 16.8
220 192 12.7
220 195 11.4
234 202 13.7
216 195 9.7
Average 220.7 186.7 15.4
The result s show that the claimed co mposit io n (A), co mprising
a non-io nic surfactant chosen fro m oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatt y
alcohols, has a better ant i-sebum efficiency t han the co mparat ive
co mposit io n (B), lacking such a non-io nic surfactant.
Indeed, after application o f co mposit io n (A) almost 25% o f o il
are remo ved fro m t he skin, while co mposit ion (B) can only remove
15% of oil.
The co mposit io n o f the present invent io n is therefore a better
cleansing agent, or sebum remover, in comparison to the co mparat ive
co mposit io n.
CLAIMS
1. Co mposit io n co mprising :
- one or more thickening polymer(s),
- one or more compound(s) of formula (I)
O
R1
(I)
wherein, R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated
or unsaturated, C1 -C1 2 alkyl radical, optionally subst ituted by o ne or
more hydroxyl groups, and/or one or more NRR’ groups wit h R and R’,
ident ical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1 -C4 alkyl radical,
- one or more non-io nic surfactant(s) chosen fro m oxyalkylenated C8 -
C3 0 fatty alco ho ls,
- one or more water-soluble organic so lvent(s) chosen fro m alco ho ls
co mprising a C1 -C8 alkyl chain, and
- water.
2. Co mposit io n according to Claim 1, wherein the thickening
polymer(s) is (are) chosen fro m thickening po lymers co mpris ing
acrylic and/or methacrylic unit s, and preferably fro m:
(a) acrylic associat ive thickeners,
(b) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers,
(c) crosslinked copolymers o f (met h)acrylic acid and o f (C1 -C6 )alkyl
acrylate,
(d) non-ionic ho mopolymers and copolymers co mpris ing ethylenically
unsaturated mono mers o f ester and/or amide type,
(e) ammonium acrylate ho mopolymers or copolymers o f ammo niu m
acrylate and of acrylamide,
(f) (meth)acrylamido(C1 -C4 )alkylsulfonic acid ho mopolymers and
copolymers,
(g) crosslinked met hacrylo ylo xy(C1 -C4 )alkyltri(C1 -C4 )alkylammonium
ho mopolymers and copolymers, and
(h) mixtures thereof.
3. Co mposit io n according to any one of the preceding c laims,
wherein the thickening polymer(s) is (are) chosen fro m crosslinked
acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers.
4. Co mposit io n according to any one of the preceding c laims,
wherein the total amount of thickening polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to
5% by weight, preferably fro m 0.02 to 1% by weight, and more
preferably fro m 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight o f
the composit io n.
5. Co mposit io n according to any one of the preceding c laims,
wherein R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated
or unsaturated, C1 -C6 alkyl radical, subst ituted by o ne or more
hydro xyl groups.
6. Co mposit io n according to any one of the preceding c laims,
wherein the co mpound(s) o f formula (I) is (are) chosen fro m mentho l,
ment hoxy propanedio l, and mixture thereof.
7. Co mposit io n according to any one of the preceding c laims,
wherein the total amount o f co mpound(s) of formula (I) ranges fro m
0.05 to 5% by weight, and preferably fro m 0.1 to 1% by weight,
relat ive to the total weight of the composition.
8. Co mposit io n according to any one of the preceding c laims,
wherein t he oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatty alcoho l(s) is (are) chosen
fro m oxyet hylenated fatt y alcoho ls co mpris ing a C1 0 -C1 8 alkyl chain
and fro m 5 to 20 of oxyet hylene unit s, and preferably fro m
oxyethylenated fatt y alco ho ls co mpris ing a C1 0 -C1 8 alk yl chain and
fro m 10 to 15 of oxyethylene unit s.
9. Co mposit io n according to the preceding claims, wherein the
total amount o f no n-io nic surfactant(s), chosen fro m oxyalkylenated
C8 -C3 0 fatty alco ho ls, ranges fro m 0.1 to 10% by weight, and
preferably fro m 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
co mposit io n.
10. Co mposit io n according to any one of t he preceding claims,
wherein the composit io n further comprises one or more addit ional nonio
nic surfactant(s), different fro m oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatt y
alcoho ls, preferably chosen from:
- esters o f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 -C3 0 acids
and of sorbit o l, preferably oxyethylenated,
- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, and
- mixtures thereof.
11. Co mposit io n according to claim 10, wherein the addit ional
non-io nic surfactant(s), different fro m oxyalkylenated C8 -C3 0 fatt y
alcoho ls, is (are) chosen fro m saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated
plant oils, preferably fro m hydrogenated 50-60 oxyethylenated plant
oils, more preferably fro m hydrogenated 50-60 oxyet hylenated castor
oils, and better still said addit ional non-io nic surfactant is PEG60
castor oil; in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably
fro m 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably fro m 0.15 to 0.35%
by weight, relat ive to the total weight of the composit io n.
12. Co mposit io n according to any one of t he preceding claims,
wherein t he total amo u nt of water-so luble organic so lvent(s) chosen
fro m a lcoho ls co mpris ing a C1 -C8 alkyl chain ranges fro m 10 to 50%
by weight, and preferably fro m 15 to 40% by weight, relat ive to the
total weight of the composit io n.
13. Co mposit io n according to any one of t he preceding claims,
wherein the weight ratio between the total a mount of co mpound(s) o f
formula (I) and the total amount of said water-so luble organic
so lvent(s) ranges fro m 0.01 to 1, preferably fro m 0.015 to 0.8, and
more preferably from 0.02 to 0.7.
14. Co mposit io n according to any one of t he preceding claims,
wherein the weight rat io between the total amount o f thickening
polymer(s) and the total amo unt of said water-so luble organic
so lvent(s) ranges fro m 0.001 to 0.01, and preferably fro m 0.002 to
0.008.
15. Method of cosmetic treatment of keratin substrates, in
particular human kerat in substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the
hair, wherein a co mposit io n according to any o ne o f the preceding
claims is applied on said keratin substrates.
16. Use o f a composit io n according to any one of claims 1 to 14
for conferring a feeling o f freshness and cleanliness to keratin
substrates, and in part icular to human keratin substrates, such as the
skin, the scalp and the hair.