COMPOSITION COMPRISING PERLITE AND A POLYMER BEARING A
CARBOSILOXANE DENDRIMER-BASED UNIT
The present invention relates to compositions for caring for and/or making up
the skin. More particularly, the present invention relates to compositions for giving
the skin a matt effect and which have improved remanence of this matt effect over
time.
Cosmetic compositions, for instance foundations, are commonly used to give
the skin, especially the face, a colour and an aesthetic effect. These makeup
products generally contain oils, pigments, fillers and optionally additives such as
cosmetic or dermatological active agents.
It is known to those skilled in the art to use fillers in order to obtain a matt
effect. These fillers are usually chosen as a function of their sebum-absorbing
properties and/or their light-scattering capacities. However, their adhesion to the
skin is generally poor, especially in the presence of sebum.
Film-forming polymers may then be used to improve the adhesion of these
fillers, and to increase the remanence of the matt effect throughout the day.
These polymers are of very different chemical nature and may be conveyed
in the fatty phase or in the aqueous phase. Examples of these polymers that may be
mentioned include silicone resins, polyacrylates and latices.
Thus, US 6 887 859 describes skincare and skin makeup compositions
containing a combination of film-forming polymers and fillers.
Although these formulations do indeed make it possible to give cosmetic
compositions certain matting-remanence properties, they may, however, be
accompanied by unpleasant sensations and discomfort either during the application
of the product (difficulty in spreading, tacky effect, greasy feel, etc.) or in the course
of the day (tautness, mask effect, etc.).
FR 2 878 738 and EP 1 862 162 also describe cosmetic compositions
comprising a vinyl polymer comprising carbosiloxane dendrimer-based units and
fillers.
There is thus still a need for cosmetic compositions that have a matt effect
and improved remanence of the matt effect, which are pleasant and easy to apply,
while at the same time maintaining satisfactory comfort on application i.e. not
causing any sensation of tautness or mask effect throughout the day and/or not
inducing any greasy or tacky sensation during their application.
The object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs.
The aim of the present invention is thus to provide a cosmetic composition
with a good compromise between the matt effect and the remanence over time of
this matt effect, while at the same time maintaining satisfactory comfort on
application.
The present invention concerns a composition comprising a physiologically
acceptable medium containing perlite and at least one vinyl polymer bearing at least
one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit.
The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions for
caring for and/or making up the skin.
The inventors have observed, unexpectedly, that the introduction into a
skincare and/or skin makeup composition of a vinyl polymer bearing at least one
carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit in combination with perlite gives these
compositions very good remanence of the matt effect, while at the same time
maintaining satisfactory comfort on application. What is more, these compositions
remain pleasant to wear throughout the day.
Hitherto, it had never been demonstrated that a combination of a polymer
and perlite in accordance with the invention makes it possible to give cosmetic
compositions a matt effect and improved remanence of the matt effect while at the
same time giving very satisfactory sensations of comfort on application of the
composition and during its use throughout the day.
Vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer
A vinyl polymer that is suitable for preparing a composition according to the
invention comprises at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit.
The vinyl polymer has a backbone and at least one side chain, which
comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer
structure.
The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present
invention represents a structure with branched groups of high molecular masses,
the said structure having high regularity in the radial direction starting from the bond
to the backbone. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form
of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in the laid-open Japanese
patent application Kokai 9-171 154.
A vinyl polymer according to the invention may contain carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based units that may be represented by the general formula (I) below:
in which:
- R represents an aryl group of 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group of 1
to 10 carbon atoms;
- X' represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by formula
(II):
in which:
. R is as defined above in formula (I),
. R2 represents an alkylene radical of 2 to 10 carbon atoms,
. R3 represents an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms,
. Xl+ is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon
atoms, an aryl group of 5 to 10 carbon atoms and a silylalkyl group defined
above of formula (II) with i = i+1 .
. i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of the said
silylalkyl group, and
. a' is an integer from 0 to 3;
- Y represents a radical-polymerizable organic group chosen from:
. organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group, the said
organic groups being represented by the formulae:
in which:
* R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms;
and
* R5 represents an alkylene group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a
methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group or a butylene group,
methylene and propylene groups being preferred; and
. organic groups containing a styryl group of formula:
in which:
* R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms,
such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group or a butyl group, the
methyl group being preferred;
* R7 represents an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms;
* R8 represents an alkylene group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as a
methylene group, an ethylene group, a propylene group or a butylene group,
the ethylene group being preferred;
* b is an integer from 0 to 4; and
* c is 0 or 1, such that if c is 0, -(R )c- represents a bond.
According to one embodiment, R may represent an aryl group containing from
5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. The
alkyl group may preferably be represented by a methyl group, an ethyl group, a
propyl group, a butyl group, a pentyl group, an isopropyl group, an isobutyl group, a
cyclopentyl group or a cyclohexyl group. The aryl group may preferably be
represented by a phenyl group and a naphthyl group. The methyl and phenyl groups
are more particularly preferred, and the methyl group is preferred among all.
According to one embodiment, R2 represents an alkylene group containing from
2 to 10 carbon atoms, especially a linear alkylene group, such as an ethylene,
propylene, butylene or hexylene group; or a branched alkylene group, such as a
methylmethylene, methylethylene, 1-methylpentylene or 1,4-dimethylbutylene group.
The ethylene, methylethylene, hexylene, 1-methylpentylene and 1,4-
dimethylbutylene groups are preferred among all.
According to one embodiment, R3 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl
and isopropyl groups.
In formula (II), i indicates the generation number and thus corresponds to the
number of repetitions of the silylalkyl group.
For example, when the generation number is equal to 1, the carbosiloxane
dendrimer may be represented by the general formula shown below, in which Y, R ,
R2 and R3 are the same as defined above, R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or is
identical to R ; a1 is identical to a'. Preferably, the total mean number of groups OR3
in a molecule is within the range from 0 to 7.
When the generation number is equal to 2, the carbosiloxane dendrimer may be
represented by the general formula below, in which Y, R , R2, R3 and R 2 are the
same as defined above; a1 and a2 represent the a' of the indicated generation.
Preferably, the total mean number of groups OR3 in a molecule is within the range
from 0 to 25.
When the generation number is equal to 3, the carbosiloxane dendrimer is
represented by the general formula below, in which Y, R , R2, R3 and R 2 are the
same as defined above; a1, a2 and a3 represent the a' of the indicated generation.
Preferably, the total mean number of groups OR3 in a molecule is within the range
from 0 to 79.
A vinyl polymer containing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit has
a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and may be
the product of polymerization of:
(A) from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and
(B) from 100 to 0.1 part by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a
radical-polymerizable organic group, represented by the general formula (I) as
defined above.
The monomer of vinyl type that is the component (A) in the vinyl polymer
bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit is a monomer of vinyl type
that contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.
There is no particular limitation as regards such a monomer.
The following are examples of this monomer of vinyl type: methyl methacrylate,
ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate or a methacrylate
of a lower alkyl analogue; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate,
n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl
methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate,
2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate,
stearyl methacrylate or a higher-analogue methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl
propionate or a vinyl ester of a lower fatty acid analogue; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-
ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate or an ester of a higher fatty acid analogue;
styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate,
vinylpyrrolidone or similar vinylaromatic monomers; methacrylamide, Nmethylolmethacrylamide,
N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide,
isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide or similar
monomers of vinyl type containing amide groups; hydroxyethyl methacrylate,
hydroxypropyl methacrylate or similar monomers of vinyl type containing hydroxyl
groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid,
maleic acid or similar monomers of vinyl type containing a carboxylic acid group;
tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol
methacrylate, polyethylene glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol
monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl
ether or a similar monomer of vinyl type with ether bonds;
methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane containing a methacrylic
group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group
on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated
groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl
fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether;
an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of
methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of maleic acid or of fumaric acid; a
radical-polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such
as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from
methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium
chloride; and a methacrylic acid ester of an alcohol containing a tertiary amine
group, such as a methacrylic acid ester of diethylamine.
Multifunctional monomers of vinyl type may also be used.
The following are examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane
trimethacrylate, pentaerythrityl trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate,
tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-
butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol
dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropanetrioxyethyl methacrylate, tris(2-
hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate
trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups containing
divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or similar silicone compounds containing
unsaturated groups.
A carbosiloxane dendrimer, which is the component (B), may be represented
by formula (I) as defined above.
The following are the preferred examples of group Y of formula (I): an
acryloxymethyl group, a 3-acryloxypropyl group, a methacryloxymethyl group, a 3-
methacryloxypropyl group, a 4-vinylphenyl group, a 3-vinylphenyl group, a 4-(2-
propenyl)phenyl group, a 3-(2-propenyl)phenyl group, a 2-(4-vinylphenyl)ethyl
group, a 2-(3-vinylphenyl)ethyl group, a vinyl group, an allyl group, a methallyl group
and a 5-hexenyl group.
A carbosiloxane dendrimer according to the present invention may be
represented by the following average structural formulae:
Thus, according to one embodiment, the carbosiloxane dendrimer of the
composition according to the present invention is represented by the following
formula:
in which:
. Y, R , R2 and R3 are as defined above in formulae (I) and (II);
. a1, a2 and a3 correspond to the definition of a' according to formula (II); and
. R 2 is H, an aryl group of 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group of 1 to 10
carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment, the carbosiloxane dendrimer of the composition
according to the present invention is represented by one of the following formulae:
The vinyl polymer comprising the carbosiloxane dendrimer according to the
invention may be manufactured according to the process for manufacturing a
branched silalkylene siloxane described in Japanese patent application Hei 9-1 7 1
154.
For example, it may be produced by subjecting to a hydrosilylation reaction an
organosilicon compound containing a hydrogen atom linked to a silicon atom,
represented by the general formula (IV) below:
R being as defined above in formula (I),
and an organosilicon compound containing an alkenyl group, to a hydrosilylation
reaction.
In the above formula, the organosilicon compound may be represented by 3-
methacryloxypropyltris(dimethylsiloxy)silane, 3-
acryloxypropyltris(dimethylsiloxy)silane and 4-vinylphenyltris(dimethylsiloxy)silane.
The organosilicon compound that contains an alkenyl group may be represented by
vinyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane, vinyltris(dimethylphenylsiloxy)silane, and 5-
hexenyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane.
The hydrosilylation reaction is performed in the presence of a chloroplatinic acid,
a complex of vinylsiloxane and of platinum, or a similar transition metal catalyst.
A vinyl polymer containing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit may
be chosen from polymers such that the carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit is a
carbosiloxane dendritic structure represented by formula (III):
in which Z is a divalent organic group, p is 0 or 1, R is as defined above in
formula (IV) and X' is a silylalkyl group represented by formula (II) as defined above.
In a vinyl polymer containing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit,
the polymerization ratio between the components (A) and (B), in terms of the weight
ratio between (A) and (B), is within a range from 0/100 to 99.9/0.1 , or even from
0.1/99.9 to 99.9/0.1 and preferably within a range from 1/99 to 99/1 . A ratio between
the components (A) and (B) of 0/1 00 means that the compound becomes a
homopolymer of component (B).
A vinyl polymer containing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit may
be obtained by copolymerization of the components (A) and (B), or by
polymerization of the component (B) alone.
The polymerization may be a free-radical polymerization or an ionic
polymerization, but free-radical polymerization is preferred.
The polymerization may be performed by bringing about a reaction between the
components (A) and (B) in a solution for a period of from 3 to 20 hours in the
presence of a radical initiator at a temperature of from 50°C to 150 °C.
A suitable solvent for this purpose is hexane, octane, decane, cyclohexane or a
similar aliphatic hydrocarbon; benzene, toluene, xylene or a similar aromatic
hydrocarbon; diethyl ether, dibutyl ether, tetrahydrofuran, dioxane or ethers;
acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone or similar
ketones; methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, isobutyl acetate or similar
esters; methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol or similar alcohols;
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,
octamethyltrisiloxane or a similar organosiloxane oligomer.
A radical initiator may be any compound known in the art for standard free-radical
polymerization reactions. The specific examples of such radical initiators are 2,2'-
azobis(isobutyronitrile), 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile), 2,2'-azobis(2,4-
dimethylvaleronitrile) or similar compounds of azobis type; benzoyl peroxide, lauroyl
peroxide, tert-butyl peroxybenzoate, tert-butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate or a similar
organic peroxide. These radical initiators may be used alone or in a combination of
two or more. The radical initiators may be used in an amount of from 0.1 to 5 parts
by weight per 100 parts by weight of the components (A) and (B). A chain-transfer
agent may be added. The chain-transfer agent may be 2-mercaptoethanol, butyl
mercaptan, n-dodecyl mercaptan, 3-mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane, a
polydimethylsiloxane containing a mercaptopropyl group or a similar compound of
mercapto type; methylene chloride, chloroform, carbon tetrachloride, butyl bromide,
3-chloropropyltrimethoxysilane or a similar halogenated compound.
In the manufacture of the polymer of vinyl type, after the polymerization, the
residual unreacted vinyl monomer may be removed under conditions of heating
under vacuum.
To facilitate the preparation of the starting material for the cosmetic products, the
number-average molecular mass of the vinyl polymer that contains a carbosiloxane
dendrimer may be chosen in the range between 3000 and 2 000 000 and preferably
between 5000 and 800 000. It may be a liquid, a gum, a paste, a solid, a powder or
any other form. The preferred forms are solutions consisting of the dilution of a
dispersion or of a powder in solvents.
The vinyl polymer may be a dispersion of a polymer of vinyl type having a
carbosiloxane dendrimer structure in its side molecular chain, in a liquid such as a
silicone oil, an organic oil, an alcohol or water.
The silicone oil may be a dimethylpolysiloxane with the two molecular ends
capped with trimethylsiloxy groups, a copolymer of methylphenylsiloxane and of
dimethylsiloxane having the two molecular ends capped with trimethylsiloxy groups,
a copolymer of methyl-3,3,3-trifluoropropylsiloxane and of dimethylsiloxane having
the two molecular ends capped with trimethylsiloxy groups, or similar unreactive
linear silicone oils, and also hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane or a similar cyclic compound. In addition to the
unreactive silicone oils, modified polysiloxanes containing functional groups such as
silanol groups, amino groups and polyether groups on the ends or within the side
molecular chains may be used.
The organic oils may be isododecane, liquid paraffin, isoparaffin, hexyl laurate,
isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate;
isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, 2-
octyldodecyl oleate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, lanolin acetate, stearyl alcohol,
cetostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, cocoa oil, jojoba
oil, gum oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, camellia oil, squalane, castor oil, cottonseed
oil, coconut oil, egg yolk oil, polypropylene glycol monooleate, neopentyl glycol 2-
ethylhexanoate or a similar glycol ester oil; triglyceryl isostearate, the triglyceride of
a fatty acid of coconut oil, or a similar oil of a polyhydric alcohol ester;
polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, polyoxypropylene cetyl ether or a similar
polyoxyalkylene ether.
The alcohol may be any type that is suitable for use in combination with a
cosmetic product starting material. For example, it may be methanol, ethanol,
butanol, isopropanol or similar lower alcohols.
A solution or a dispersion of the alcohol should have a viscosity within the range
from 10 to 109 mPa at 25°C. To improve the sensory use properties in a cosmetic
product, the viscosity should be within the range from 100 to 5 c 108 mPa.s.
The solutions and dispersions may be readily prepared by mixing the vinyl
polymer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure with a silicone oil, an organic
oil, an alcohol or water. The liquids may be present in the polymerization step. In
this case, the unreacted residual vinyl monomer should be completely removed by
heat treatment of the solution or dispersion under atmospheric pressure or reduced
pressure.
In the case of a dispersion, the dispersity of the polymer of vinyl type may be
improved by adding a surfactant.
Such an agent may be hexylbenzenesulfonic acid, octylbenzenesulfonic acid,
decylbenzenesulfonic acid, dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid, cetylbenzenesulfonic acid,
myristylbenzenesulfonic acid or anionic surfactants of the sodium salts of these
acids; octyltrimethylammonium hydroxide, dodecyltrimethylammonium hydroxide,
hexadecyltrimethylammonium hydroxide, octyldimethylbenzylammonium hydroxide,
decyldimethylbenzylammonium hydroxide, dioctadecyldimethylammonium
hydroxide, beef tallow-trimethylammonium hydroxide, coconut oiltrimethylammonium
hydroxide, or a similar cationic surfactant; a polyoxyalkylene
alkyl ether, a polyoxyalkylenealkylphenol, a polyoxyalkylene alkyl ester, the sorbitol
ester of polyoxyalkylene, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, an ethylene
oxide additive of diethylene glycol trimethylnonanol, and nonionic surfactants of
polyester type, and also mixtures.
. In the dispersion, a mean particle diameter of the polymer of vinyl type may be
within a range of between 0.001 and 100 microns and preferably between 0.01 and
50 microns. The reason for this is that, outside the recommended range, a cosmetic
product mixed with the emulsion will not have a nice enough feel on the skin or to
the touch, or sufficient spreading properties or a pleasant feel.
A vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or the solution may have a
concentration in the range between 0.1% and 95% by weight and preferably
between 5% and 85% by weight. However, to facilitate the handling and the
preparation of the mixture, the range should preferably be between 10% and 75%
by weight.
A vinyl polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may also be one of the
polymers described in the examples of patent application EP 0 963 751 .
According to one preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a
carbosiloxane dendrimer may be the product of polymerization of:
(A1 ) from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of one or more acrylate or methacrylate
monomers; and
(B1) from 100 to 0.1 part by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a
tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer.
The monomers (A1) and (B1 ) correspond, respectively, to the particular
monomers (A) and (B).
According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer containing at least one
carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit may comprise a
tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimerbased
unit corresponding to one of the formulae:
or
According to one preferred mode, a vinyl polymer containing at least one
carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit used in the invention comprises at least one
butyl acrylate monomer.
According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer may also comprise at least one fluoro
organic group.
Structures in which the polymerized vinyl units constitute the backbone and
carbosiloxane dendritic structures and also organofluorine groups are attached to
side chains are particularly preferred.
The organofluorine groups may be obtained by replacing with fluorine atoms all
or some of the hydrogen atoms of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl,
tert-butyl, pentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, cyclohexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl,
dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl and octadecyl groups and other alkyl groups
of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and also alkyloxyalkylene groups of 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
The groups represented by the formula -(CH2) x-(CF2) -R 3 are suggested as
examples of fluoroalkyl groups obtained by substituting fluorine atoms for hydrogen
atoms of alkyl groups. In the formula, the index "x" is 0, 1, 2 or 3 and "y" is an
integer from 1 to 20. R 3 is an atom or a group chosen from a hydrogen atom, a
fluorine atom, -CH(CF3)2- or CF(CF3)2. Such alkyl groups substituted with fluorine
are illustrated by the linear or branched polyfluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl groups
represented by the formulae presented below: -CF3, -C2F5, -nC3F7, -CF(CF3)2,
-nC4F9, CF2CF(CF3)2, -nC5 F , -nC6F 3 , -nC8F 7 , -CH2CF3, -CH(CF3)2,
CH CH(CF3) -CH (CF ) F, -CH (CF )3F, -CH (CF )4F, -CH (CF )6F, -CH (CF )8F,
-CH2CH2CF3, -CH2CH2(CF2)2F, -CH2CH2(CF2)3F, -CH2CH2(CF2)4F, -CH2CH2(CF2)6F,
-CH2CH2(CF2 )8F, -CH2CH2(CF2 )ioF, -CH2CH2(CF2 ) 2F, -CH2CH2(CF2 )i4F,
-CH2CH2(CF2 ) F , -CH2CH2CH2CF3, -CH2CH2CH2(CF2)2F, -CH2CH2CH2(CF2)2H,
-CH2(CF2)4H, and -CH2CH2(CF2)3H.
The groups represented by -CH2CH2-(CF2) -CFR 4-[OCF2CF(CF3)]n-OC3F7 are
suggested as fluoroalkyloxyfluoroalkylene groups obtained by substituting fluorine
atoms for hydrogen atoms of alkyloxyalkylene groups. In the formula, the index "m"
is 0 or 1, "n" is 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, and R 4 is a fluorine atom CF3. Such
fluoroalkyloxyfluoroalkylene groups are exemplified by the
perfluoroalkyloxyfluoroalkylene groups represented by the formulae presented
below: -CH2CH2CF(CF3)-[OCF2CF(CF3)]n-OC3F7, -CH2CH2CF2CF2-[OCF2CF(CF3)]n-
OC3F .
The number-average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer used in the present
invention may be between 3000 and 2 000 000 and more preferably between 5000
and 800 000.
This type of fluorinated vinyl polymer may be obtained by addition:
- of a vinyl monomer (M2) without an organofluorine group,
- onto a vinyl monomer (M1) containing organofluorine groups, and
- a carbosiloxane dendrimer (B) as defined above of general formula (I) as
defined above,
by subjecting them to a copolymerization.
Thus, according to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may
comprise a vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit
derived from the copolymerization of a vinyl monomer (M1 ) as defined above,
optionally a vinyl monomer (M2) as defined above, and a carbosiloxane dendrimer
(B) as defined above,
the said vinyl polymer having a copolymerization ratio between the monomer
(M1 ) and the monomer (M2) of from 0.1 to 100:99.9 to 0% by weight, and a
copolymerization ratio between the sum of the monomers (M1) and (M2) and the
monomer (B) of from 0.1 to 99.9:99.9 to 0.1% by weight.
The vinyl monomers (M1 ) containing organofluorine groups in the molecule are
preferably monomers represented by the general formula:
-(CH2)=CR COORf.
In this formula, R 5 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and Rf is an
organofluorine group exemplified by the fluoroalkyl and fluoroalkyloxyfluoroalkylene
groups described above. The compounds represented by the formulae presented
below are suggested as specific examples of the component (M1 ) . In the formulae
presented below "z" is an integer from 1 to 4.
CH2=CCH3COO-CF3, CH2=CCH3COO-C2F5, CH2=CCH3COO-nC3F7,
CH2=CCH3COO-CF(CF3)2, CH2=CCH3COO-nC4F9,
CH2=CCH3COO-CF(CF3)2, ,
CH2=CCH3COO-nC6F 3 , CH2=CCH3COO-nC8F 7 , CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CF3,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH(CF3)2, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH(CF3)2,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2 (CF2)2F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2(CF2)2F,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2(CF2)4F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2(CF2)6F,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2(CF2)8F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2CF3,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2)2F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2)3F,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2)4F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2)6F,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2)8F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2) 0F,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2) 2F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2) 4F,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2-CH2-(CF2) 6F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2CH2CF3,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2CH2(CF2)2F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2CH2(CF2)2H,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2 (CF2)4H, CH2=CCH3COO-(CF2)3H,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2CF(CF3)-[OCF2-CF(CF3)]z-OC3F7,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2CF2CF2-[OCF2-CF(CF3)]z-OC3F7,
CH2=CHCOO-CF3, CH2=CHCOO-C2F5, CH2=CHCOO-nC3F7,
CH2=CHCOO-CF(CF 3)2, CH2=CHCOO-nC4F9, CH2=CHCOO-CF2CF(CF3)2,
CH2=CHCOO-nC5F1 1 , CH2=CHCOO-nC6F 3 , CH2=CHCOO-nC8F 7 ,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CF3, CH2=CHCOO-CH(CF 3)2, CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH(CF3)2,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2(CF2)2F, CH2=CHCOO-CH2(CF2)3F,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2(CF2)4F, CH2=CHCOO-CH2(CF2)6F,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2(CF2)8F, CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2CF3,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2 (CF2)2F, CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2(CF2)3F,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2(CF2)4F, CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2(CF2)6F,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2(CF2)8F, CH2=HCOO-CH2CH2(CF2) 0F,
CH2-CHCOO-CH2CH2-(CF2) 2F, CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2(CF2) 4F,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2(CF2) 6F, CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2CH2CF3,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2CH2(CF2)2F, CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2CH2(CF)2H,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2(CF2)4H, CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2(CF2)3H,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2CF(CF3)-, [OCF2-CF(CF3)]z-OC3F7,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2CF2CF2(CF3)-[OCF2-CF(CF3)]2-OC3F7.
Among these, the vinyl polymers represented by the formulae presented below
are preferable:
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2(CF2)6F, CH2=CHCOO-CH2CH2(CF2)8F,
CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2)6F, CH2=CCH3COO-CH2CH2(CF2)8F,
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CF3, CH2= CCH3COO-CH2CF3.
The vinyl polymers represented by the formulae presented below are
particularly preferable:
CH2=CHCOO-CH2CF3, CH2=CCHCOO-CH2CF3.
The vinyl monomers (M2) not containing any organofluorine groups in the
molecule may be any monomer containing radical-polymerizable vinyl groups
illustrated, for example, by methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl
methacrylate, n-propyl acrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl acrylate, isopropyl
methacrylate, and other lower alkyl acrylates or methacrylates; glycidyl acrylate,
glycidyl methacrylate; n-butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl acrylate,
isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl acrylate, nhexyl
methacrylate, n-hexyl acrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate,
cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl
acrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate,
stearyl methacrylate, and other higher acrylates and methacrylates; vinyl acetate,
vinyl propionate and other lower fatty acid vinyl esters; vinyl butyrate, vinyl caproate,
vinyl 2-ethylhexanoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, and other higher fatty acid
esters; styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl acrylate, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl
acrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, and other vinylaromatic
monomers; dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate,
diethylaminoethyl acrylate, diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, and other aminovinyl
monomers, acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methylolacrylamide, Nmethylolmethacrylamide,
N-methoxymethylacrylamide, Nmethoxymethylmethacrylamide,
isobutoxymethoxyacrylamide,
isobutoxymethoxymethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, N,Ndimethylmethacrylamide,
and other vinylamide monomers; hydroxyethyl acrylate,
hydroxyethyl methacrylate, acrylic acid hydroxypropyl alcohol, methacrylic acid
hydroxypropyl alcohol, and other hydroxyvinyl monomers; acrylic acid, methacrylic
acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, and other vinylcarboxylic
acid monomers; tetrahydrofurfuryl acrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate,
butoxyethyl acrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, ethoxydiethylene glycol acrylate,
ethoxydiethylene glycol methacrylate, polyethylene glycol acrylate, polyethylene
glycol methacrylate, polypropylene glycol monoacrylate, polypropylene glycol
monomethacrylate, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl
ether, and other vinyl monomers containing an ether bond;
acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane,
polydimethylsiloxanes containing acryl or methacryl groups at one of the ends,
polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkenylaryl groups at one of the ends and other
silicone compounds containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride;
vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; maleic
anhydride; dodecylsuccinic anhydride; acryl glycidyl ether, methacryl glycidyl ether,
3,4-epoxycyclohexylmethyl acrylate, 3,4-epoxycyclohexylmethyl methacrylate, alkali
metal salts, ammonium salts and organic amine salts of acrylic acid, of methacrylic
acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of fumaric acid, of maleic acid and of other
radical-polymerizable unsaturated carboxylic acids, radical-polymerizable
unsaturated monomers containing sulfonic acid groups, such as styrene sulfonic
acid and also the alkali metal salts thereof, the ammonium salts thereof and the
organic amine salts thereof; the quaternary ammonium salts derived from acrylic
acid or methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy-3-
methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, methacrylic acid esters of a tertiary
amine alcohol, such as the diethylamine ester of methacrylic acid and quaternary
ammonium salts thereof.
In addition, it is also possible to use as vinyl monomers (M2) the polyfunctional
vinyl monomers illustrated, for example, by trimethylolpropane triacrylate,
trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythrityl triacrylate, pentaerythrityl
trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate,
tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene
glycol diacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,4-butanediol diacrylate, 1,4-
butanediol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate,
neopentyl glycol diacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate,
trimethylolpropanetrioxyethyl acrylate, trimethylolpropanetrioxyethyl methacrylate,
tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate diacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate
dimethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate triacrylate, tris(2-
hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane in which the two
ends of the molecular chain are blocked with alkenylaryl groups, and other silicone
compounds containing unsaturated groups.
As regards the ratio mentioned above in which (M1 ) and (M2) are
copolymerized, the weight ratio between (M1) and (M2) is preferably in the range
1:99 to 100:0.
Y may be chosen, for example, from organic groups bearing acrylic or
methacrylic groups, organic groups bearing alkenylaryl groups, or alkenyl groups of
2 to 10 carbon atoms.
The organic groups bearing acrylic or methacrylic groups and the alkenylaryl
groups are as defined above.
Among the compounds (B), mention may be made, for example, of the following
compounds:
The carbosiloxane dendrimers (B) may be prepared using the process for
preparing siloxane/silylalkylene branched copolymers described in document EP 1
055 674.
For example, they may be prepared by subjecting organic alkenyl silicones and
silicone compounds comprising hydrogen atoms linked to silicon, represented by
formula (IV) as defined above,
to a hydrosilylation reaction.
The copolymerization ratio (by weight) between the monomer (B) and the
monomers (M1) and (M2) is preferably in the range from 1:99 to 99:1 and even
more preferably in the range from 5:95 to 95:1 .
Amino groups may be introduced into the side chains of the vinyl polymer using,
included in the component (M2), vinyl monomers containing amino groups, such as
dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl
acrylate and diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, followed by performing a modification
with potassium acetate monochloride, ammonium acetate monochloride, the
aminomethylpropanol salt of monochloroacetic acid, the triethanolamine salt of
monobromoacetic acid, sodium monochloropropionate, and other alkali metal salts
of halogenated fatty acids; otherwise, carboxylic acid groups may be introduced into
the side chains of the vinyl polymer using, included in the component (M2), vinyl
monomers containing carboxylic acids, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,
itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid and maleic acid, and the like, followed by
neutralizing the product with triethylamine, diethylamine, triethanolamine and other
amines.
A fluoro vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of
patent application WO 03/045 337.
According to one preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted in the sense of
the present invention may be conveyed in an oil or a mixture of oils, which are
preferably volatile, chosen in particular from silicone oils and hydrocarbon-based
oils, and mixtures thereof.
According to one particular embodiment, a silicone oil that is suitable for use in
the invention may be cyclopentasiloxane.
According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon-based oil that is
suitable for use in the invention may be isododecane.
Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit
that may be particularly suitable for use in the present invention are the polymers
sold under the names TIB 4-100, TIB 4-1 0 1, TIB 4-1 20, TIB 4-130, TIB 4-200, FA
4002 ID (TIB 4-202), TIB 4-220 and FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow
Corning.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention
comprises the vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based
unit in an active material content of from 0.5% to 20%, in particular from 1% to 15%,
more particularly from 2% to 10% and preferably from 3% to 5% by weight relative
to the total weight of the said composition.
Perlite
The compositions of the invention comprise at least perlite.
Perlite is a natural glass (sodium potassium aluminium silicate) of volcanic
origin, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava, and is in the form of small particles
resembling pearls. When it is heated beyond 800 °C, it has the particularity of losing
the water it contains and of taking a porous expanded form (representing from four
to twenty times its initial volume), enabling it to absorb large amounts of oil.
The perlite particles used according to the invention have a small particle size.
In the context of the present invention, the term "particle size" denotes the
mean diameter of the said particles.
Thus, the perlite particles may preferably have a particle size distribution such
that at least 50% of the particles are smaller than 25 mhi in size.
Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size
distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are smaller than 20 mhi in size.
In addition, they preferentially have a particle size distribution such that 90% by
weight are less than 55 mhi and preferably less than 40 mhi in size. It is moreover
preferable for 90% by weight of the particles to be larger than 5 mhi in size.
The amount of perlites particles used according to the invention may
advantageously represent from 0.001% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferentially
from 0.1% to 5% and more preferentially from 0.15% to 3% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
The perlite particles that may be used according to the invention are especially
commercially available from the company World Minerals under the trade names
Optimat 2550 OR and Optimat 1430 OR.
Physiologically acceptable medium
Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition according to the
invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium
that is particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the invention to
the skin.
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the
support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which
the composition is to be packaged.
A composition of the invention may be a dispersion or an emulsion.
A dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase.
An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase. Such an emulsion
may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or
alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or 0/W/O).
In the case of emulsions, inverse (W/O) emulsions are preferred.
Aqueous phase
The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase comprises water. A water that is suitable for use in the
invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water
such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at
room temperature: 25 C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon
atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20
carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially
containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene
glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol;
glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, dior
tripropylene glycol ( -C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Ci-C4)alkyl
ethers, and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium
chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible
compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, filmforming
polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in
a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, especially from 5% to 50% and more
particularly from 10% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be
anhydrous.
An anhydrous composition may comprise less than 5% by weight of water
relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 3%, especially
less than 2% and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water relative to the
total weight of the composition.
More particularly, an anhydrous composition may be free of water.
Fattyphase
A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise
at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase.
According to one embodiment of the present invention, the perlite and the vinyl
polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit are present in the
fatty phase.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present
invention is in the form of an emulsion.
The perlite and the vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimerbased
unit are generally present in the fatty phase of the said emulsion.
In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid
fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below.
The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room
temperature (20-25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure.
A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content
ranging from 1% to 90%, in particular from 5% to 80%, in particular from 10% to
70% and more particularly from 20% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
The oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions
according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro
oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin
fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non
volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are
placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a
large chamber of about 0.3 m3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of
25 °C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed
to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan
(Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position
above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being
directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the
crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at
regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per
unit of area (cm2) and per unit of time (minutes).
The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of
evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room
temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil,
which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an
evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2/min, limits included.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means
an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and
carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus
atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
Volatile oils
The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8
to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-Ci 6 branched alkanes (also known as
isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-
pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold
under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.
Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile
linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to
8 centistokes (cSt) (8 c 10 6 m2/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon
atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally
comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile
silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of
dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane,
octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane,
and mixtures thereof.
Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane,
and mixtures thereof, may also be used.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise
from 1% to 80% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to
60% by weight and especially from 15% to 50% by weight of volatile oil relative to
the total weight of the composition.
Non-volatile oils
The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbonbased,
fluoro and/or silicone oils.
Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,
hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as
phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl
glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of
glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from
C4 to C36 and especially from Ci 8 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched,
and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic
triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil,
quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet
almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage
oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil,
rapeseed oil, cotton oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily
oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut
oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant
pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil,
musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed
oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as
those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names
Miglyol 8 10®, 8 12® and 8 18® by the company Dynamit Nobel,
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as
liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes,
hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R COOR 2, in which
represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon
atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched,
containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that the sum of the number of
carbon atoms in the chains and R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may
be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl
octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,
ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate,
isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl
lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially
isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates,
for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-
ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene
glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C 2-
C 5 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl
neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl
neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate,
isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance
isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate,
polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl
tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and
Lusplan DD-DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in
patent application US 2004-1 75 338,
copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, such
as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers and esters thereof, for instance
Plandool-G,
copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as
Hailuscent ISDA or the dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer,
fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or
unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for
instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-
butyloctanol and 2-undecyl-pentadecanol;
C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid,
and mixtures thereof,
dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different,
such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,
oils of high molar mass, in particular having a molar mass ranging from
about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol,
in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from
about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol. As oils of high molar mass that may be used in the
present invention, mention may especially be made of oils chosen from:
• lipophilic polymers,
• linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to
70,
• hydroxylated esters,
• aromatic esters,
• C24-C28 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters,
• silicone oils,
• oils of plant origin,
• and mixtures thereof;
optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone fluoro oils, for
instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in
document EP-A-847 752;
- silicone oils, for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
(PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are
pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24
carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl
dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and
mixtures thereof.
According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition
according to the invention can contain only volatile compounds.
Lipophilic structuring agent
A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one structuring
agent for the liquid fatty phase, chosen from a wax and a pasty compound, and
mixtures thereof.
In particular, a wax that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen
especially from waxes of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures
thereof.
As examples of waxes that may be used according to the invention, mention
may be made of:
- waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin
derivatives, plant waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax,
Japan wax, cocoa butter, cork fibre wax or sugarcane wax,
- mineral waxes, for example paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or
microcrystalline waxes, or ozokerites,
- synthetic waxes, including polyethylene wax and the waxes obtained by
Fisher-Tropsch synthesis,
- silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; examples that
may be mentioned include polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones
containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and alkyl methicones, for instance the C30-
C45 alkyl methicone sold under the trade name AMS C 30 by Dow Corning,
- hydrogenated oils that are concrete at 25°C, such as hydrogenated castor oil,
hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated
coconut oil and fatty esters that are solid at 25 °C, for instance the C2o-C4o alkyl
stearate sold under the trade name Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster
Keunen,
- and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, use will be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes,
carnauba waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, candelilla waxes and beeswaxes, and/or
mixtures thereof.
A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pasty
compound.
The presence of a pasty compound may make it possible advantageously to
impart improved comfort during the application of a composition of the invention to
keratin fibres.
Such a compound may be chosen advantageously from lanolin and derivatives
thereof; polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds; polymeric or non-polymeric
fluoro compounds; vinyl polymers, especially olefin homopolymers; olefin
copolymers; hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers; linear or branched
oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably
containing a C8-C30 alkyl group; oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl
esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups; oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of
vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the
polyetherification between one or more C2-C 0o and in particular C2-C50 diols; esters
of a fatty acid or a fatty alcohol; and mixtures thereof.
Among the esters, mention may be made especially of:
esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, for instance
poly(2-glyceryl triisostearate), condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which
some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty
acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-
hydroxystearic acid, especially such as those sold under the brand name Softisan
649 by the company Sasol or such as poly[bis(diglyceryl 2-acyladipate)]; arachidyl
propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters;
fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof, such as hydrogenated cocoyl
glycerides; non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a
linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or
polyol; aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic
hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid; polyesters resulting
from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic
acid, the said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as the products
Risocast DA-H® and Risocast DA-L®; and mixtures thereof.
The structuring agent(s) may be present in a composition of the invention in a
content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thickeners
Depending on the fluidity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, it is
possible to incorporate one or more thickeners or gelling agents into a composition
of the invention.
A thickener or gelling agent that is suitable for use in the invention may be
hydrophilic, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.
Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned in particular include watersoluble
or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These polymers may be chosen
especially from: modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products
sold under the name Carbopol (CTFA name: Carbomer) by the company Goodrich;
polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names
Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the
company Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides; optionally crosslinked and/or
neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers,
for instance the poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the
company Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium
polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of
AMPS, which are in the form of a W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name
Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under
the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate
copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;
polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum,
acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans,
alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose,
hydroxymethyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl cellulose; and mixtures thereof.
A thickener or gelling agent that is suitable for use in the invention may be
lipophilic. It may be mineral or organic.
Examples of lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include modified clays
such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), modified
hectorites such as hectorite modified with a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride,
for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for
instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis
or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox, or the
product sold under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company Elementis.
The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or
completely crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional
structure, for instance those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18®
by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by Dow Corning, Gransil SRCYC
®, SR DMF1 0®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC
556 gel® by Grant Industries and SF 1204® and JK 113® by General Electric; ethyl
cellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical;
polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a
dicarboxylic acid containing at least 32 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid dimers, and
an alkylenediamine and in particular ethylenediamine, in which the polymer
comprises at least one carboxylic acid end group esterified or amidated with at least
one saturated and linear monoalcohol or monoamine containing from 12 to 30
carbon atoms, and in particular ethylenediamine/stearyl dilinoleate copolymers such
as the product sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by Arizona Chemical;
galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular from two to four
hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl
chain, for instance guar gum alkylated with to C6, and in particular to C3, alkyl
chains, and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial"
type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as the
products sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the
polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as the products sold under the
name Kraton® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or of the
polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, and mixtures of triblock and radial (star)
copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the
name Versagel®, for instance the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock
copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane
(Versagel M 5960).
Among the lipophilic gelling agents that may be used in a cosmetic
composition of the invention, mention may also be made of fatty acid esters of
dextrin, such as dextrin palmitates, especially such as those sold under the names
Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour, hydrogenated plant
oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, in particular of C8 to C26 and
more particularly C 2 to C22, for instance myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl
alcohol or behenyl alcohol.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise
thickeners in an active material content of from 0.01% to 40% by weight, especially
from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.3% to 15% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
Dyestuffs
A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one
dyestuff.
A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously
incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or mineral dyes, especially
such as the pigments or nacres conventionally used in cosmetic compositions,
liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with a specific optical effect, and
mixtures thereof.
The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or coloured,
inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are
intended for colouring and/or opacifying the resulting film.
The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 40% by weight,
especially from 1% to 30% by weight and in particular from 5% to 15% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be
made of titanium oxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides,
iron oxides or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and
chromium hydrate. According to one particular mode of the invention, the mineral
pigments will be chosen from iron oxides and titanium oxides, and mixtures thereof.
It may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of
sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for
example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and
Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
The colorant may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be,
for example, of the type such as silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An
example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company
Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of
silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
Among the organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may
be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine
or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the
diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP 0 542 669, EP 0 787 730,
EP 0 787 731 and WO 96/08537.
The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning iridescent or noniridescent
coloured particles of any form, especially produced by certain molluscs in
their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a colour effect via optical
interference.
The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica
coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium
mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and
also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica
particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of
metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated
with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres
Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard,
the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres,
sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by
the company Sun Chemical.
The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange,
brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context of the present
invention, mention may be made of gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the
company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 2 12G (Timica), Gold 222C
(Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X
(Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the
names Bronze fine ( 17384) (Colorona) and Bronze ( 17353) (Colorona) and by the
company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres
sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C
(Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the
names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange ( 17449) (Microna); the browntinted
nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the names Nuantique
copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a
copper tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A
(Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the
name Sienna fine ( 17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially
by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the redtinted
nacres with a golden tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the
name Sunstone G01 2 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company
Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a
golden tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique
bronze 240 AB (Timica); the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck
under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); the white nacres with a silvery tint
sold especially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and the
golden-green pinkish-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under
the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise
water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red,
DC Red 17, DC Green 6, b-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC
Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for
example, beetroot juice and caramel.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least
one material with a specific optical effect.
This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and
stabilized effect as produced by standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic
pigments. For the purposes of the invention, the term "stabilized" means lacking an
effect of variability of the colour as a function of the angle of observation or
alternatively in response to a temperature change.
For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint,
goniochromatic colouring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents,
optical brighteners, and also fibres, especially interference fibres. Needless to say,
these various materials may be combined so as to afford the simultaneous
manifestation of two effects, or even of a novel effect in accordance with the
invention.
The particles with a metallic tint that may be used in the invention are chosen
in particular from:
- particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative,
- particles comprising a single-material or multi-material organic or inorganic
substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic glint
comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and
- mixtures of said particles.
Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be
made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn,
Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr
and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred
metals.
The term "metal derivatives" is intended to denote compounds derived from
metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
Illustrations of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminium
particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company
Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart.
Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or of alloy mixtures
such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic
pigments, for instance aluminium or bronze, such as those sold under the names
Rotosafe 700 from the company Eckart, silica-coated aluminium particles sold under
the name Visionaire Bright Silver from the company Eckart, and metal alloy
particles, for instance the silica-coated bronze (alloy of copper and zinc) powders
sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from the company Eckart.
They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, for instance those
sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine.
The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for example, from
multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.
Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used
in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the
following structures: Al/Si0 2/Al/Si0 2/Al, pigments having this structure being sold by
the company DuPont de Nemours; Cr/MgF2/AI/MgF2/Cr, pigments having this
structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex;
MoS2/Si0 2/AI/Si0 2/MoS2; Fe20 3/Si0 2/Al/Si0 2/Fe20 3, and
Fe20 3/Si0 2/Fe20 3/Si0 2/Fe20 3, pigments having these structures being sold under
the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS2/Si0 2/mica-oxide/Si0 2/MoS2;
Fe20 3/Si0 2/mica-oxide/Si0 2/Fe20 3; Ti0 2/Si0 2/Ti0 2 and Ti0 2/Al20 3/Ti0 2;
SnO/Ti0 2/Si0 2/Ti0 2/SnO; Fe20 3/Si0 2/Fe20 3; SnO/mica/Ti0 2/Si0 2/Ti0 2/mica/SnO,
pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the company
Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of
silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the
company Merck, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the
name Xirona Indian Summer by the company Merck and the pigments of
silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean
Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors
pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of
the various coats, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the
Fe20 3/Si0 2/Al/Si0 2/Fe20 3 structure, the colour changes from greenish gold to
reddish grey for Si0 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for Si0 2 layers of 380
to 400 nm; from violet to green for Si0 2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red
for Si0 2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.
Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure that may be
mentioned include those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter.
Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include
those sold by the company Chenix and also the product sold under the name
Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.
Fillers
A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least
one filler other than perlite, of organic or mineral nature, making it possible
especially to give it additional matt-effect or covering properties, and/or improved
stability with regard to exudation and migration-resistance properties after
application.
The term "filler" should be understood to mean colourless or white solid
particles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the
medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, can give
body or rigidity to the composition and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup.
The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be
in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other
intermediate form between these defined forms.
The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in
particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives
or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in
the composition.
Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica,
hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate,
hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and composites of
silica and of titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.
Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned include polyamide powders
(Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene powder or polymethyl methacrylate
powder, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, powders of acrylic acid
copolymers (Polytrap from the company Dow Corning), lauroyllysine, hollow polymer
microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance
Expancel (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone
copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (for
example Tospearl from Toshiba), natural or synthetic micronized waxes, metal
soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms
and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium
stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200
(Chemdal Corporation), and polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked
polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, the said copolymer comprising
trimethylol hexyl lactone. It may in particular be a hexamethylene
diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer. Such particles are especially
commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or
Plastic Powder D-800® from the company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention
may comprise, as filler other than perlite, silica, preferably in the form of
microspheres. As commercial references of silicas that may be used in the context
of the present invention, an example that may be mentioned is the reference Silica
Beads SB 700 from Miyoshi, with a mean size of 5 microns.
According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention
may comprise, as filler other than perlite, polyamide powder, and especially Nylon
powder and more particularly Nylon-12 powder. As commercial references of Nylon
powders that may be used in the context of the present invention, an example that
may be mentioned is Nylon® Orgasol from Arkema, and more particularly Orgasol®
2002 EXD NAT COS (mean particle size of about 10 mhi ) .
According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention
may comprise, as filler other than perlite, silica, preferably in the form of
microspheres, and Nylon powder as defined above.
Additives
A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any
additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from
gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants,
resins, dispersants, semi-crystalline polymers, antioxidants, essential oils,
preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents,
cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagenprotecting
agents, and mixtures thereof.
It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the
nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with
the invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties
thereof are not thereby affected.
A cosmetic composition of the invention may be in the form of a skin makeup
product, in particular a foundation, a hot-cast foundation product, a body makeup
product, a concealer, an eyeshadow or a lipstick. It may be in the form of an
anhydrous gel, in the form of a stick or wand, or in the form of a soft paste.
A care composition according to the invention may in particular be an antisun
composition or a deodorant.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a fluid
foundation.
The present invention also relates to the use, in a cosmetic composition for
making up and/or caring for the skin, of perlite and of at least one vinyl polymer
bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit, for increasing the
remanence of the matt effect imparted by the said composition.
Matt effect and remanence of the matt effect
The matt effect and the remanence of the matt effect may be measured by
means of the protocol described below.
The matt effect on a region of skin is measured using a polarimetric camera,
which is a black and white polarimetric imaging system, with which images are
acquired in parallel (P) and crossed (C) polarized light.
By analysing the image resulting from subtraction of the two images (P-C), the
gloss is quantified, by measuring the average greyscale of the brightest 5% of pixels
corresponding to the gloss areas.
More specifically, the measurements are performed on a panel of individuals,
for example a sample of 16 women who wait in an air-conditioned room (22 C±2°C)
15 minutes before the start of the test. They remove their makeup and an image of
one of their cheeks is acquired with the polarimetric camera. This image allows
measurement of the gloss at TO before applying makeup. Next, about 100 mg of
cosmetic composition are weighed out on a watch glass and are applied by naked
finger to the half-face on which the measurement at TOwas taken.
After a drying time of 15 minutes, an image of the made-up cheek is acquired
with the polarimetric camera. This image allows measurement of the gloss just after
applying makeup (Timm). The models then return to the air-conditioned room for 3
hours.
Finally, an image of the made-up cheek after a waiting time of 3 hours is
acquired with the polarimetric camera. This image allows measurement of the gloss
after 3 hours of makeup (T3h).
The results are expressed by calculating the difference (Timm - TO), which
measures the effect of the makeup. A negative value means that the makeup
reduces the gloss of the skin and that it thus has a matt effect.
The difference (T3h - Timm) measuring the remanence of this effect is then
calculated. The value obtained should be as low as possible, which means that the
matt effect of the makeup does not change over time.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process comprising
the application to the skin of a composition as defined above.
The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for making up
and/or caring for the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one coat
of a composition as defined above.
The present invention also relates to a skin makeup process in which a
composition as defined above is applied.
EXAMPLES
Influence of the nature of the polymer on the remanence of the matt
effect
The fluid foundation Examples 1 and 2 make it possible to show that the
dendrimer acrylate silicone of the invention affords better remanence of the matt
effect than a silicone resin.
Example 1 Example 2
(Invention) (comparative)
% mass % mass
Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF
2.00 2.00
6017 by the company Shin-Etsu
Cetyl PEG/PPG-1 0/1 dimethicone sold under the
1.00 1.00
reference Abil EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt
A 1
Cyclohexasiloxane 8.20 8.20
Isododecane 1.00 -
Isohexadecane 1.60 1.60
Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 3.00
Butyl acrylate copolymer containing dendritic silicone
side chains:
Tris((trimethylsiloxy)siloxyethyldimethylsiloxy)silylpropyl 10.00 -
methacrylate in isododecane (40/60) sold under the
A2 reference Dow Corning FA 4002 ID by Dow Corning.
Trimethyl siloxysilicate resin sold under the reference
SR 1000 by the company Momentive Performance - 4.00
Materials
Isododecane - 7.00
A3 Cyclohexasiloxane 7.50 7.50
Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl
2.15 2.15
glutamate
Red iron xid t with aluminium steamy! n 4 n 4
glutamate
Black iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl
0.23 0.23
glutamate
Titanium dioxide coated with aluminium stearoyl
8.98 8.98
glutamate
Nylon 12 powder sold under the reference Orgasol
3.00 3.00
2002 EXD NAT COS by the company Arkema
Silica microspheres sold under the reference SB 700
A4 1.00 1.00
by the company Miyoshi Kasei
Perlite sold under the reference Optimat 2550 OR by
0.20 0.20
the company World Minerals
A5 Fragrance 0.30 0.30
Demineralized water 34.50 34.50
B Butylene glycol 6.00 6.00
Magnesium sulfate 0.70 0.70
C Ethanol 8.00 8.00
TOTAL 100% 100%
Procedure Example 1
The constituents of phase A 1 are weighed out in the main beaker and are
stirred with a Moritz blender ( 1000 rpm) while maintaining at room temperature.
Next, phase A2 is added at room temperature, by stirring using a Moritz
blender (1000 rpm) until homogenized.
Phase A3 is prepared separately by milling three times in a three-roll mill the
mixture of pigments and of cyclohexasiloxane.
This phase A3 is then added, with continued stirring, along with phases A4
and A5.
The aqueous phase B is also prepared separately, by weighing out in a
beaker the butylene glycol and the magnesium sulfate, and by adding water
preheated to 95 °C.
The aqueous phase is stirred using a magnetic bar until homogenized.
The emulsion is prepared at room temperature: the aqueous phase B is
poured into the fatty phase while gradually increasing the stirring speed (Moritz
blender) up to 4000 rpm. Stirring is continued for 10 minutes.
Phase C (ethanol) is finally added.
The product obtained is stirred using a Rayneri blender (paddles) for 10
minutes between 50 and 60 rpm.
Procedure Example 2
The constituents of phase A 1 are weighed out in the main beaker and are
stirred with a Moritz blender ( 1000 rpm) while maintaining at room temperature.
Phase A2 is prepared beforehand by dispersing the silicone resin in the
isododecane with stirring using a Rayneri blender equipped with a deflocculator
paddle (about 100 rpm).
Next, phase A2 is added at room temperature, by stirring using a Moritz
blender (1000 rpm) until homogenized.
Phase A3 is prepared separately by milling three times in a three-roll mill the
mixture of pigments and of cyclohexasiloxane.
This phase A3 is then added, with continued stirring, along with phases A4
and A5.
The aqueous phase B is also prepared separately, by weighing out in a
beaker the butylene glycol and the magnesium sulfate, and by adding water
preheated to 95 °C.
The aqueous phase is stirred using a magnetic bar until homogenized.
The emulsion is prepared at room temperature: the aqueous phase B is
poured into the fatty phase while gradually increasing the stirring speed (Moritz
blender) up to 4000 rpm. Stirring is continued for 10 minutes.
Phase C (ethanol) is finally added.
The product obtained is stirred using a Rayneri blender (paddles) for 10
minutes between 50 and 60 rpm.
Example 1 Example 2
(invention) (comparative)
Butyl acrylate copolymer containing
dendritic silicone side chains:
Tris((trimethylsiloxy)siloxyethyldi- Trimethyl siloxysilicate
Nature of the polymer methylsiloxy)silylpropyl methacrylate resin sold under the
in isododecane (40/60) sold under reference SR 000 by the
the reference Dow Corning FA 4002 company Momentive
ID by Dow Corning . Performance Materials
Matt effect (Timm-TO) -3.61 -4.56
Remanence of the matt 1.26 2.78
effect (T3h - Timm)
These results show that the dendrimer acrylate silicone of the invention
affords better remanence of the matt effect.
Influence of the nature of the filler on the remanence of the matt effect
The fluid foundation Examples 1 and 3 make it possible to show that perlite
affords better remanence of the matt effect than Nylon powder.
The fluid foundation Examples 1 and 4 make it possible to show that perlite
affords better remanence of the matt effect than silica.
The matt effect and the remanence of the matt effect are measured according
to the protocol indicated above.
Example 1 Example 3 Example 4
(Invention) (comparative) (comparative)
% mass % mass % mass
Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF
2.00 2.00 2.00
601 7 by the company Shin-Etsu
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the
1.00 1.00 1.00
reference Abil EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt
A 1
Cyclohexasiloxane 8.20 8.20 8.20
Isododecane 1.00 1.00 1.00
Isohexadecane 1.60 1.60 1.60
Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 3.00 3.00
Butyl acrylate copolymer containing dendritic silicone
side chains:
A2 Tris((trimethylsiloxy)siloxyethyldimethylsiloxy)silylpropyl 10.00 10.00 10.00
methacrylate in isododecane (40/60) sold under the
reference Dow Corning FA 4002 ID by Dow Corning.
A3 Cyclohexasiloxane 7.50 7.50 7.50
Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyi
2.15 2.15 2.1 5
glutamate
Red iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyi
0.64 0.64 0.64
glutamate
Black iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyi
0.23 0.23 0.23
glutamate
Titanium dioxide coated with aluminium stearoyi
8.98 8.98 8.98
glutamate
Nylon 12 powder sold under the reference Orgasol
3.00 3.20 3.00
2002 EXD NAT COS by the company Arkema
Silica microspheres sold under the reference SB 700
A4 1.00 1.00 1.20
by the company Miyoshi Kasei
Perlite sold under the reference Optimat 2550 OR by
0.20 - -
the company World Minerals
A5 Fragrance 0.30 0.30 0.30
Demineralized water 34.50 34.50 34.50
B Butylene glycol 6.00 6.00 6.00
Magnesium sulfate 0.70 0.70 0.70
C Ethanol 8.00 8.00 8.00
TOTAL 100% 100% 100%
Procedure:
The procedure is identical to that of Example 1.
Example 1 Example 3 Example 4
(invention) (comparative) (comparative)
Nylon 2 powder sold Silica microspheres
under the reference sold under the
Nature of the filler Perlite sold under the Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT reference SB 700 by
reference Optimat 2550 COS by the company the company Miyoshi
OR by the company Arkema
Kasei
World Minerals
Matt effect (Timm- -3.61 -3.37 -5,05
TO)
Remanence of the 1.26 4.41 4,02
matt effect (T3h -
Timm)
These results show that perlite affords the best remanence of the matt effect,
on one hand in comparison to nylon powder and on the other hand in comparison to
silica.

CLAIMS
1. Composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing
perlite and at least one vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimerbased
unit.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the vinyl polymer containing at
least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit has a molecular side chain containing
a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and is the product of polymerization of:
(A) from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and
(B) from 100 to 0.1 part by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer of formula (I)
below:
in which:
- R represents an aryl group of 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group of 1 to
10 carbon atoms;
- X' represents a silylalkyl group which, when i = 1, is represented by formula
(II):
in which:
. R is as defined above in formula (I),
. R2 represents an alkylene radical of 2 to 10 carbon atoms,
. R3 represents an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms,
. Xl+ is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms,
an aryl group of 5 to 10 carbon atoms and a silylalkyl group defined above of
formula (II) with i = i+1 .
. i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of the said
silylalkyl group, and
. a1is an integer from 0 to 3;
- Y represents a radical-polymerizable organic group chosen from:
. organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group, the said
organic groups being represented by the formula
in which:
* R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and
* R5 represents an alkylene group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and
. organic groups containing a styryl group of formula:
in which:
* R6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms;
* R7 represents an alkyl group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms;
* R8 represents an alkylene group of 1 to 10 carbon atoms;
* b is an integer from 0 to 4; and
* c is 0 or 1, such that if c is 0, -(R )c- represents a bond.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the carbosiloxane dendrimer
is represented by the following formula:
in which:
. Y, R , R2 and R3 are as defined in Claim 2;
. a1, a2 and a3 correspond to the definition of a' according to Claim 2; and
. R 2 is H, an aryl group of 5 to 10 carbon atoms or an alkyl group of 1 to 10
carbon atoms.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which
carbosiloxane dendrimer is represented by one of the following formulae
5. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the vinyl
polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit is present in an
active material content of from 0.5% to 20%, in particular from 1% to 15%, more
particularly from 2% to 10% and preferably from 3% to 5% by weight relative to the
total weight of the said composition.
6. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the perlite is in
the form of particles, at least 50% of the particles of which are smaller than 25 mhi
and in particular smaller than 20 mhi in size, and more particularly at least 90% of
the particles of which are smaller than 55 mhi in size, and preferably at least 90% of
the particles of which are larger than 5 mhi in size.
7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the perlite
represents from 0.001% to 15%, in particular from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from
0.05% to 10%, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% and even more preferentially
from 0.1 5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
8. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, comprising a fatty
phase.
9. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in the form of an
emulsion.
10. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, comprising a lipophilic
structuring agent.
11. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, comprising a dyestuff.
12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, comprising a thickener
or gelling agent.
13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, in the form of fluid
foundation.
14. Use, in a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin, of
perlite and of at least one vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane
dendrimer-based unit, for increasing the remanence of the matt effect imparted by
the said composition.
15. Cosmetic treatment process comprising the application to the skin of a
composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13.