Composition for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, comprising particular
fatty alcohols, a liquid fatty substance and a cationic polymer
The present invention relates to a composition for dyeing keratin fibres.
Many people have for a long time sought to modify the colour of their hair,
and in particular to dye it, for example in order to mask their grey hair.
For the long-lasting colouring of human keratin fibres, "permanent" dyeing
10 methods, also known as oxidation dyeing, have been developed, which use dye
compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, which are generally known as
oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly colourcd
compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to
coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
15 It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be
varied by combining them with couplers or colouration modifiers. The varicty of the
molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colours to be
obtained.
One of the difficulties encountered during the use of the dyeing processes of
20 the prior art arises from the fact that they are performed under alkaline conditions,
and in the presence of oxidizing agents.
In order to improve the performance qualities of processes for dyeing
human keratin fibres, and to limit the drawbacks associated with the usc of alkaline
agents and oxidizing agents, it has been proposed to use in dye compositions a
25 substantial amount of one or more fatty substances.
However, the compositions of the prior art are not entirely satisfactory, and
their performance qualities remain to be improved, in particular firstly as regards thc
working qualities after mixing with an oxidizing composition, especially in terms of
texture, ease of application and ease of spreading onto the ends, and secondly as
3 0 regards the dyeing qualities obtained using these mixtures, especially in terms of the
strength and homogeneity of the coloration obtained.
The Applicant has now discovered that the use of certain particular fatty
alcohols, in the presence of liquid fatty substances and of cationic polymers, makes it
possible to obtain compositions that have improved properties.
A subject of the present invention is thus a composition for dyeing keratin
5 fibres, comprising:
- one or more oxidation dyes,
- one or more basifylng agents,
- one or more non-oxyalkylenated fatty substances that are liquid at room
temperature, chosen from Ca-Cl6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 1 6
10 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic
triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids andlor of fatty alcohols other
than triglycerides, and silicones, and mixtures thereof, in a content of less than or equal to
20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- one or more oxidizing agents,
- one or more oxyethylenated fatty alcohols with a number of oxyethylene
units of greater than or equal to 10,
- one or more oxyethylenated fatty alcohols with a number of oxyethylenc
units of less than 10,
- one or more non-oxyethylenated fatty alcohols that are solid at room
20 temperature, and
- one or more cationic polymers.
The composition according to the present invention has very good working
qualities. It has a particularly pleasant texture, and good viscosity. It is easy to apply
and to spread onto locks of hair, and in particular onto the roots. It does not run and
25 remains localized at the points of application. It spreads easily from the roots to the
ends, this spreading occasionally being made useful to prevent overloading with dye.
However, even without this spreading, the homogeneity of the colorations obtained is
very satisfactory.
Beyond the homogeneity aspect, the composition of the invention also leads
30 to very good dyeing properties. It is particularly effective as regards the strength and
also as regards the chromaticity of the colour on the fibres.
Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge morc
clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range
of values are included in that range.
The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
The human keratin fibres treated via the process according to the invention
5 are preferably the hair.
According to the present invention, the composition comprises one or more
basifying agents.
The basifying agent may in particular be a mineral or organic base.
Preferably, the basifying agent is chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkaline
10 carbonates, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, organic amines, for instance
akanolamines and derivatives thereof, and the compounds of formula (I) below:
15 in which W is a C1-C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a
hydroxyl group or a Cl-Cs akyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may bc identical
or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a Cl-Cs alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, or CICs
aminoalkyl radical.
Examples of such compounds of formula (I) that may be mentioned include
20 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
The basifying agents that are preferred are aqueous ammonia and
alkano lamines, and in particular monoethano lamine, diethanolamine and
triethanolamine.
In a particularly preferred variant of the invention, the basifying agent is
25 chosen from aqueous ammonia and monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the
composition does not contain any aqueous ammonia.
According to an also preferred embodiment of the present invention, when
the composition contains aqueous ammonia or a salt thereof, it also contains one or
3 0 more alkanolamines. In this case, the weight amount of alkanolamine(s) in the
composition is preferably greater than the weight amount of aqueous ammonia in this
same composition.
Generally, the composition has a content of basifying agent(s) ranging from
0.1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the
weight of this composition.
Preferably, the composition has a pH greater than or equal to 6, more
5 preferentially a pH ranging from 7 to 12, better still from 8 to 11.5 and even better
still from 8 to 11.
This pH may also be adjusted to the desired value by using, in addition to
the basifying agent(s), one or more acidifying agents.
Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned includc
10 mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid,
sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or
lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more
oxidation dyes.
15 The oxidation dyes that may be used in the present invention are generally
chosen from oxidation bases, optionally combined with one or more couplers.
The oxidation bases may be chosen especially from paraphenylenediamines,
bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, orthoaminopheno
1s and heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts.
20 Among the para-phenylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned
include para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine,
2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine,
2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-paraphenylenediamine,
N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-
25 phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-
methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethy1)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(Phydroxyethy1)
amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethy1)amino-2-
chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-paraphenylenediamine,
2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-hydroxypropy1)-para-
3 0 phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-
methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(P-hydroxyethy1)-paraphenylenediamine,
N-(P,y-dihydroxypropy1)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-
aminopheny1)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2.4-
hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-paraphenylenediamine,
N-(p-methoxyethy1)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-
aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethylamino-
5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts
thereof with an acid.
5 Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine,
para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-Phydroxyethyl-
para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine,
2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-
dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethy1)-para-phenylenediamine,
10 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-paraphenylenediamine,
and the addition salts thereof with an acid, are particularly
preferred.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned
include N,N'-bis(~-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol,
15 N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-
aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethy1)-N,N'-bis(4-
aminopheny 1)tetramethy lenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-
methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethy1)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-
methylpheny1)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane,
20 and the addition salts thereof.
Among the para-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include
para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-arnino-3-
chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-
2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylpheno 1, 4-amino-2-
25 aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(P-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)pheno1 and 4-amino-
2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an acid.
Among the ortho-aminophenols, examples that may be mentioned include
2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-
aminophenol and the addition salts thereof.
30 Among the heterocyclic bases, examples that may be mentioned include
pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds
described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5-
diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxypheny1)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-
diaminopyridine, and the addition salts thereof.
Other pyridine oxidation bases that are usehl in the present invention are
the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-alppidine oxidation bases or the addition salts thereof
5 described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be
mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-alpyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-
alpyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-
aminopyrazolo[l,5-alppidine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-alpyrid-3-
ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[ l ,5-alpyrid-7-y1)methano I, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-
10 alpyrid-5-y1)ethano I, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-alpyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-
aminopyrazolo[ l,5-alpyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[ 1,5-alppidine, 3,4-
diaminopyrazolo[l,5-alppidine, pyrazolo[l,5-alpyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-
4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-alpyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-alpyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-
morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylane, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-alpyrid-5-
15 y1)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-
hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-alppidin-5-01, 3-
aminopyrazolo[l,5-alppidin-4-01, 3-aminopyrazolo[ l ,5-alppidin-6-01 and 3-
aminopyrazolo[l,5-alppidin-7-01, and their addition salts.
Mention may be made, among pyrimidine derivatives, of the compounds
20 described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, J P 88-169571,J P 05-63124a nd EP 0
770 375 or patent application WO 96115765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine,
4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-
dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the addition salts
thereof and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
25 Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds
described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO
94108969, WO 94108970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-
1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole,
4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-
3 0 diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-I-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-
amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyralzeo,
4,5-diamino-3-tert-butylI- - methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-
methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(P-hydroxyethy1)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-
ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-
diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-
methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole4,,5 -diamino-3-
methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-I,3-dimethylpyrazole,
3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1 -methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino- 1 -methyl-4-
5 methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-(P-hydroxyethy1)amino- 1 -methylpyrazole,
and the addition salts thereof. Use may also be made of 4,5-diamino-1-(j3-
methoxyethy1)pyrazole.
Use will preferably be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more
preferentially of 4,5-diamino-1-(P-hydroxyethy1)pyrazole andor a salt thereof.
10 Mention may also be made, as pyrazole derivatives, of diamino-N,Ndihydropyrazolopyrazolones
and in particular those described in application FR-A-
2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-
diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-
6,7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[ 1 ,2-alpyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-
15 dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l2-alpyrazol1-- one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin- I -yl)-6,7-
dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-alpyrazol-1-o ne, 4,5-diamino- l,2-dimethyl-1,2-
dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-l,2-diethyl-l,2-dihydropyra~ol-3-one4,, 5:
diamino-l,2-di(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-
hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-
20 dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyra~o1l-o- ne, 2,3-diamino-
5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyra~ol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-
(pyrrolidin- I- y1)- l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethy laminopyrrolidin-
1 -yl)-1 ,2-diethyl- 1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one or 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-
1H,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-alpyrazol--1o ne.
25 Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5Hpyrazolo[
l,2-alpyrazol-1-one andor a salt thereof.
As heterocyclic bases, use will preferably be made of 4,5-diamino-I-@-
hydroxyethy1)pyrazole andor 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazoLo[1,2-
alpyrazo 1- 1 -one andor a salt thereof.
30 The couplers that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from
those conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres.
Mention may in particular be made, among these couplers, of metaphenylenediamines,
meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based
couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also their addition salts.
Examples that may be mentioned include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-
dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(Phydroxyethyloxy)
benzene, 2-amino-4-(P-hydroxyethy1amino)-1 -methoxybenzene,
1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-
5 ureido- 1 -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-P-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-
methylenedioxybenzene, a-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-
hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-
hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,s-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, I -N-(Phydroxyethy1)
amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(P-
10 hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine,1 -
H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-
dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]- 1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethy1[3,2-c]- 1,2,4-triazole and 6-
methylpyrazolo[1,5-albenzimidazole, the addition salts thereof with an acid, and
mixtures thereof.
15 In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be
used within the context of the invention are especially chosen from the addition salts
with an acid such as the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates,
tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
The oxidation base@) may advantageously represent from 0.0001% to 10%
20 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from
0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of this composition.
The coupler(s), if they are present, may advantageously represent from
0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of this
25 composition.
The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more
non-oxyalkylenated fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature.
In the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic
compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at
30 atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. which has a solubility in water of less than
5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferentially less
than 0.1% by weight. The fatty substances contain in their structure at least one
sequence of at least two siloxane groups or a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at
least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic
solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance
chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jclly or
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The term "liquid fatty substance" means a fatty substance that is liquid at
5 ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 rnrnHg; i.e. 1.013~10~
Pa).
The liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from c 6 - C ~ hydrocarbons,
hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal
origin, plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty
10 alcohols, esters of fatty acids andlor of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and
silicones, and mixtures thereof.
More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from:
- linear or branched, optionally cyclic, c 6 - C ~ lower hydrocarbons,
preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane,
15 dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and
isodecane,
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin,
containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum
jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parlearn@, and
20 squalane.
In one preferred variant, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid
paraffin and liquid petroleum jelly.
Preferably, the silicones are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes,
especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes
25 comprising at least one aryl group.
These silicones may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones
that may be used in accordance with the invention are liquid silicones as defined
previously, comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups
attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
3 0 Organopolysiloxanes are defined in grcdter detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry
and Technology of Silicones (1968), Acddemic Press. They c.dn be vokdtile or nonvolatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from
those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly still
from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4
5 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octarnethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in
particular under the name Volatile Silicone@ 7207 by Union Carbide or SilbioneK,
70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile
Silicone@ 7158 by Union Carbide or SilbioneB 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and
dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsofi 1217 by Momentive
10 Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile@ FZ 3109.
sold by Union Carbide, of formula:
D" - D'-- D " D ' -
CH3
with D- S i - 0 -
I
with p: S i - 0
I
CH3 C8H17
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with
organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of
octarnethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetra(trirnethylsi1yl)pentaerythritol (50150) and the
20 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,l'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-
hexatrimethylsily1oxy)neopentane;
(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes having from 2 to 9 silicon
atoms and exhibiting a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x10~m 2/s at 25°C. An
example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by
25 Toray Silicone. Silicones coming within this category are also described in the paper
published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers.
Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at
25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used.
These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting
5 manner, of the following commercial products:
- the silbionem oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MirasilG oils sold by
Rhodia, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasila series sold by Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a
10 viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s;
- the ~iscasil@oi ls from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series
(SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having dimethylsilanol
end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48
15 series from the company Rhodia.
Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in
particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be
mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- the silbionem oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsilm 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF
1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
2 5 The liquid fatty esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched C1-CZ6 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or
polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or
equal to 10.
30 Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or of
the acid from which the esters of the invention result is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be
made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl
myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl
isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of CI-C22 alcohols
and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar
5 C4-CZ6 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be
used.
Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate;
bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate;
bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate;
10 triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl
trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and
diesters of C6-C3~ and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term
15 " sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several
alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise
at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or
polysaccharides.
Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of sucrose (or
20 saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose,
arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such
as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the
group consisting of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of
25 saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C6-C30 and preferably CI2-C22 fatty
acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three
conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this alternative form can also be chosen from mono-,
di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.
30 These esters can, for example, be oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates,
behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates. artchidonates or their
mixtures, such as, in particular, oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitatelstearate
mixed esters.
More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in particular
mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate, -holeate, -1inolenate or -
oleatelstearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the
5 name GlucateB DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Finally, natural or synthetic esters of monoacids, diacids or triacids with
glycerol may also be used.
Among these, mention may be made of plant oils.
As oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used in the
10 composition of the invention as liquid fatty substances, examples that may be
mentioned include:
- triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid
triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or
octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil,
15 soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,
macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, olive oil,
caprylicJcapric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stkarineries
Dubois or those sold under the names MiglyolB 8 10, 812 and 818 by the company
Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
20 Liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols or triglycerides of plant
origin will preferably be used as esters according to the invention.
The liquid non-oxyethylenated fatty alcohols that may be used as fatty
substances according to the invention advantageously comprise from 8 to 30 carbon
atoms.
25 They may be chosen in particular from unsaturated fatty alcohols and
branched saturated fatty alcohols.
These unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols exhibit, in their structures, at least
one double or triple bond. Preferably, the fatty alcohols of the invention bear in thcir
structure one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there
30 are preferaably 2 or 3 of them and they may or may not be conjugated.
These fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or
non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are
selected from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or
linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
The liquid fatty alcohols may also be branched saturated fatty alcohols.
More particularly, the liquid branched saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are
chosen from isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol.
Preferably, the fatty substance(s) according to the invention are nonsilicone.
10 They are preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances that are not
oxyalkylenated or glycerolated.
According to one preferred embodiment, the liquid fatty substance(s) are
chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, such as
liquid paraffin; liquid petroleum jelly; esters of C I - Ca~lip~h atic mono acids and of
1.5 C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols, these esters having a total number of carbon atoms of
greater than or equal to 10, in particular isopropyl myristate and isononyl
isononanoate; fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; plant oils, in particular avocado
oil, camellia oil and olive oil; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the content of fatty substances that are liquid at room
20 temperature ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 1% to 10% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the present invention, the composition comprises one or more
oxidizing agents.
This oxidizing agent may be chosen from the oxidizing agents
2.5 conventionally used for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibres, and among which
mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal brornates or
ferricyanides, and peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates, perborates and
percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as sodium, potassium or
magnesium. One or more redox enzymes such as laccases, peroxidases and 2-
30 electron oxidoreductases (such as uricase), optionally in the presence of the
respective donor or cofactor thereof, may also be used as oxidizing agent.
The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred. It may be
advantageously used as an aqueous solution (aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution)
whose concentration may vary more particularly from 0.1% to 50% by weight, even
more preferentially from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1% to 15% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more
oxyethylenated fatty alcohols with a number of oxyethylene units of greater than or
5 equal to 10.
Preferably, such a fatty alcohol comprises from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more
preferably 14 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
The number of oxyethylene units is preferably greater than or equal to 15.
Particularly preferred compounds are oxyethylenated cetyl and stearyl
10 alcohols, comprising at least 10, preferably at least 15 and better still at least 20
oxyethylene units.
Preferably, the maximum number of oxyethylene units is 200 and better still
100.
Compounds corresponding to this definition are especially known under the
15 following INCI names: Steareth-20 (stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units)
and Ceteareth-25 (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols containing 25 oxyethylene
units).
Preferably, the content of oxyethylenated fatty substances with a number of
oxyethylene units of greater than or equal to 10 ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight
20 and better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
Similarly, the composition of the invention comprises one or more
oxyethylenated fatty alcohols with a number of oxyethylene units of less than 10.
Preferably, such a fatty alcohol comprises from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more
25 preferably 14 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
The number of oxyethylene units is preferably less than or equal to 5.
The number of ethylene oxide units is greater than or equal to I and
preferably greater than or equal to 2.
Particularly preferred compounds are oxyethylenated cetyl and stearyl
3 0 alcohols, comprising less than 5 oxyethylene units.
A particularly preferred compound corresponds to the INCI name Steareth-2
(stearyl alcohol containing 2 oxyethylene units).
The content of oxyethylenated Fatty alcohols with a number of oxyethylene
units of less than 10 is advant.ageously at least 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the
content of oxyethylenated fatty alcohols with a number of oxyethylene units of less
than 10 ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight
and even better still from 0.4% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
5 Similarly, the composition of the invention comprises one or more nonoxyethylenated
fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol that is
solid at room temperature" means a fatty alcohol which is in solid hrm at ordinary
temperature (25OC) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.0131~0 ' Pa).
10 According to the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol" denotes a
compound of formula R-OH in which R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group (i.e. a group consisting of carbon and
hydrogen atoms) comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.
Preferably, such a fatty alcohol comprises from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and
15 more preferably kom 16 to 24 carbon atoms.
Fatty alcohols corresponding to this definition are especially cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
The content of non-oxyethylenated fatty alcohols that are solid at room
temperature is advantageously at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of
20 the composition. Preferably, the content of non-oxyethylenated fatty alcohols that are
solid at room temperature ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5%
to 15% by weight and even better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more cationic
25 polymers.
The cationic polymer(s) that may be used in accordance with the present
invention may be selected from all of those already known per se to enhance the
cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, these being, in
particular, the polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in
30 French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 61 1, 2 470 596,
2 519 863 and 2 875 503.
The preferred cationic polymer(s) are chosen from those that contain in their
structure units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary andlor quaternary amine
groups that may for example either form part of the main polymer chain or be borne
by a side substituent directly attached thereto.
Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly are
polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type.
5 Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
(1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from crosslinked or noncrosslinked
acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the
units of formula (I), (11), (111) or (IV) below:
in which:
R, and R2, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom
or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
R3, which may be identical or different at each occurrence, denotes a
hydrogen atom or a CH3 group;
5 A, which may be identical or different, in each case represents a linear or
branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a
hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
Rq, RS and %, which may be identical or different, each represent an alkyl
group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl
10 group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a
methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units derived fiom
comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides,
15 diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen
with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams
such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl-caprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Thus, among these polymers of family (I), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
20 quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold
under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and o f
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylarnmonium chloride which are described, for example,
in patent application EP-A-080 976 and are sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by
25 the company Ciba Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and o f
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name Reten
by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl
30 acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name
Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or
alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers
are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone
terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company
ISP,
- vinylp~lidonelmethacrylamidopropyldimethylaminceo polymers sold
5 in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidoneldimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide
copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company
ISP, and
- the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyl tri(C1-
10 C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by
copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized
with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking
with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly
15 methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked
acrylamidelmethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylonium chloride copolymer (20180 by
weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer
in mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name
Salcarm SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked
20 homo polymer of methacrylo yloxyethyltrimethylammoniurn chloride containing
approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester.
These dispersions are sold under the names SalcareB SC 95 and SalcareB SC 96 by
the company Ciba.
(2) Cationic polysaccharides in particular chosen from:
a) Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups
described in French patent 1 492 597, and in particular the polymers sold under the
names JR (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or LR (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company
Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary
as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an
3 0 epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
b) Cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble
quaternary ammonium monomer, described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such
as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or
hydroxypropy l celluloses grafted especially with a
methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium
or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more
particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by
5 the company National Starch.
It is preferred to use a copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and of
diallyldimethylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-4), sold, for example, under the
name Celquat LOR by the company Akzo Nobel.
c) Guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. Use is made,
10 fbr example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylarnmonium salt
(for example, chloride).
Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar C13 S,
Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C 162 by the company Meyhall.
(3)Polymers fbrmed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or
15 hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally
interrupted with oxygen, sulfin or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic
rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such
polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
(4) Water-soluble cationic polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by
20 polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides
may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a saturated or unsaturated
dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine
or a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the
reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive towards a bis-halohydrin, a
25 bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a
diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; these polyaminoamides may be alkylated,
or quaternized if they contain one or more tertiary amine hnctions. Such polymers
are described, in particular, in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
(5) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of
3 0 polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with
difunctional agents. Mention may be made, fbr example, of adipic
acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldiallcylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl
radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or
propyl. Such polymers are especially described in French patent 1 583 363.
Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the
adipic aciddimethylamino-hydroxypropyVdiethylenetriamine polymers sold under
the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing
5 two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a
dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic
acids having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms. The mole ratio between the polyalkylene
polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide
resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of
10 epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of
between 0.5:l and 1.8:l. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3
227615and2961347.
Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by
the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by
15 the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acidepoxypropyVdiethylenetriamine
copolymer.
(7) Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, such as
the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as the main constituent of the chain,
units conforming to the formula (V) or (VI):
20
in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; RIZ
denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; Rlo and RII, independently of one
another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl
group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower
amidoalkyl group (i.e. the alkyl part of which is CI-C4), or else Rlo and R11 may,
together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic
groups, such as piperidyl or tnorpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride,
acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These
polymers are in particular described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate
5 ofAddition 2 190 406.
Preferably, Rlo and R11 each denote, independently of one another, an alkyl
group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made of
dialkyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers, more particularly
10 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6)
sold, for example, under the name MerquatB 100 by the company Nalco (and
homologues thereof of low weight-average molecular masses) and
dialkyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, more particularly the copolymer of
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name
15 Merquam 550.
(8) The quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units
corresponding to formula (VII):
in which:
R13, RI4, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent
aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or
25 lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups (i.e. the alkyl part of which is CI-C4), or
alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the
nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a
second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16 each
represent a linear or branched CI-Ca~l kyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl
3 0 or amide group or a -CO-0-R17-E or -CO-NH-R17-E group where R17 is an alkylene
group and E is a quaternary ammonium group;
A1 and BI represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon
atoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated and may
contain, joined to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or
one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfidc, amino,
5 alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
A], R13 and Rls may, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form a
piperazine ring; moreover, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, BI may also denote a group:
10 -(CH2),-CO-E'-OC-(CH2),-
in which n denotes an integer from 0 to 7 and E' denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula -0-Z-0-, in which Z denotes a linear or
branched hydrocarbon-based group, or a group corresponding to one of the following
formulae:
-(CH2-CH2-O),-CH2-CH2-
-[CH2-CH(CH3)-01,-CH2-CH(CH3)-
in which x and y each denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined
and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an
average degree of polymerization;
20 b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y
denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or alternatively the divalent
group -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CHy;
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
25 Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents
2 320 330,2 270 846,2 316 271,2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US patents 2 273 780,
2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870,
4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653,
3 0 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.
Use may more particularly be made of the polymers which consist of
repeating units corresponding to formula (VIII):
(VIII)
in which R13, R14, R15 and Rl6, which may be identical or different, each
denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
5 approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 8,
and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Preferably, R13, R14, KIS
and R16 each denote a methyl group. As an example of a polymer that may be used
corresponding to formula (VIII), mention may be made of hexadimethrine chloride,
sold under the name Mexomer PO by the company Chimex.
10 (9) Polyquatemary ammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (IX):
(IX)
in which:
p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6 approximately;
D may be nothing or may represent a group
--(CH2),-CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and
X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
Cationic polymers comprising units of formula (IX) are in particular
described in patent application EP-A-122 324 and may be prepared according to the
20 processes described in US patents 4 157 388,4 390 689,4 702 906 and 4 719 282.
Among these polymers, the ones that are preferred are those with a
molecular mass, measured by carbon-13 NMR, of less than 100 000, and in the
formula of which:
p is equal to 3, and
a) D represents a group -(CH2)4-CO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the
molecular mass measured by carbon-13 NMR (I3c NMR) being about 5600; a
polymer of this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name Mirapol-AD 1,
b) D represents a group ---(CHz)rCO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the
molecular mass measured by carbon-13 NMR (13c NMR) being about 8100; a
polymer of this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name Mirapol-AZI,
c) D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular
5 weight measured by carbon-13 NMR (I3c NMR) being around 25 500; a polymer of
this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name Mirapol-A15,
d) a "block copolymer" formed from units corresponding to the polymers
described in paragraphs a) and c), sold by the company Miranol under the names
Mirapol-9 (13c NMR molecular mass of about 7800), Mirapol-175 ("c NMR
10 molecular mass of about 8000) and Mirapol-95 (13c NMR molecular mass of about
12 500).
Even more particularly, the polymer containing units of formula (IX) in
which p is equal to 3, D denotes the value zero and X denotes a chlorine atom, the
molecular mass measured by carbon-13 NMR (13c NMR) being about 25 500, is
15 preferred according to the invention.
(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for
instance the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by
the company BASF.
(11) Ethoxylated cationic tallow polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by
20 Henkel, referred to under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in
the CTFA dictionary.
(12) Vinylamide homopolymers or copolymers and in particular partially
hydrolysed vinylamide homopolymers such as poly(vinylamine/vinylamides). These
polymers are formed from at least one vinylamide monomer corresponding to thc
25 following formula:
H~C=CR~NRC(O)R~
in which R, R' and R' are each chosen from a hydrogen atom, a C1-C20 alkyl
group, an aryl group and an alkylaryl group, the alkyl part of which comprises from 1
30 to 20 carbon atoms.
In particular, the said monomer may be chosen from N-vinylformamide, Nmethyl-
N-vinylacetamide and N-vinylacetamide. Preferably, use is made of the
poly(vinylamine/N-vinylformamide) as sold under the name Catiofast VMP by the
company BASF or under the name Luparnin 9030 by the company BASF.
These polymers may be formed, for example, by radical polymerization of a
vinylamide monomer followed by partial acidic or basic hydrolysis of the amide
hctions to quaternizable amine functions, as described in patent applications WO
20071005 577, US 5 374 334, US 6 426 383 and US 6 894 110.
5 (13) Cationic polyurethanes.
Among the cationic polyurethanes, use is preferably made of the
polyurethanes formed by the following monomers:
(al) at least one N-methyldiethanolamine (noted NMDEA),
(a2) at least one ethylenehutylene nonionic copolymer as sold under the
10 name Krasol LBH-P 2000, and
(b) at least one isophorone diisocyanate (noted IPDI).
Preferably, the amines forming the cationic units (al) represent from 0.1%
to SO%, in particular from 1% to 30% and better still from 5% to 20% by wcight
relative to the total weight of the final polyurethane.
15 These polyurethanes and the syntheses thereof are described, for example,
in patent application FR-A-2 898 603.
(14) Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the
invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines,
in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or
20 vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives.
Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the
present invention, use is preferably made of the alkyldiallylamine or
diakyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers of family (7), and more particularly
dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI name: Polyquaternium-61,
25 and also the quaternary diammonium polymers of family (81, and more particularly
those consisting of repeating units corresponding to formula (VIII) above, especially
such as hexadimethrine chloride.
The composition of the invention contains one or more cationic polymers in
a content preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from
30 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
According to the invention, in addition to the oxidation dye(s), the
composition may also comprise one or more direct dyes.
The direct dyes that may be used in the composition are more particularly
chosen from ionic and nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species.
Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo dyes;
methine dyes; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes;
5 tri(heter0)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanin dyes, and natural direct
dyes, alone or as mixtures.
More particularly, the azo dyes comprise an -N=N- function in which the
two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is not
excluded for one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N=N- to be engaged in
10 a ring.
The dyes of the methine family are more particularly compounds
comprising at least one sequence chosen from >C=C< and -N=C< in which the two
atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is pointed out that one
of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequences may be engaged in a ring. More
15 particularly, the dyes of this family are derived from compounds of the type such as
methines, azomethines, monoarylmethanes and diarylmethanes, indoamines (or
diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanins, azacarbocyanins and
isomers thereof, diazacarbocyanins and isomers thereof, tetraazacarbocyanins and
hemicyanins.
20 As regards the dyes of the carbonyl family, examples that may be mentioned
include dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone,
benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone,
flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone,
isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone,
25 quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine,
diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin.
As regards the dyes of the cyclic azine family, mention may be made
especially of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine,
(di)thiazine and pyronin.
30 The nitro(heter0)aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or
nitropyridine direct dyes.
As regards the dyes of porphyrin or phthalocyanin type, it is possible to use
cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or
metal ions, for instance alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, zinc and silicon.
Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include
nitrobenzene dyes; azo direct dyes; azomethine direct dyes; methine direct dyes;
azacarbocyanin direct dyes, for instance tetraazacarbocyanins
(tetraazapentamethines); quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or
5 benzoquinone direct dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane
direct dyes; indoamine direct dyes; indigoid direct dyes; phthalocyanin direct dyes,
porphyrin direct dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
Mention may be made, among the natural direct dyes which can be used
according to the invention, of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid,
10 kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin,
spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Use may also be made of extracts or decoctions
comprising these natural dyes and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts.
When they are present, the direct dye(s) advantageously represent fiom
0.0001% to 10% by weight and preferably fiom 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to
15 the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one
or more surfactants other than the oxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the invention.
In particular, the surfactant(s) are chosen fiom anionic, amphoteric,
zwitterionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants.
20 The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or
ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen
h m the groups -C(O)OH, <(0)0-, -SO,H, -S(0)~0-,- OS(O)zOH, -OS(0)20-, -
P(O)OHz, -P(0)20-, -P(O)Oz-, -P(OH)z, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O-, =P(O)O-, =POH,
=PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an
25 alkaline-earth metal or an ammonium.
As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition
according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethcr
sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride
sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin
30 sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates,
alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamatcs,
alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, polyglycoside
polycarboxylic acid and alkyl monoester salts, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside
uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic
acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified
forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds
comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from
5 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of Ca-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids
can be selected from Ca-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosidetartrates
and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from
10 alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt,
ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth
metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
Examples of aminoalcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include
monoethanolamine, diethano lamine and triethanolamine salts,
15 monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-
2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and
tris(hydroxyrnethy1)aminomethane salts.
Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in
particular of sodium or magnesium salts.
20 Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, use is preferably made of (Cs-
C24)alkyl sulfates, (C6-Ca4)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene
oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and
alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
In particular, use is preferably made of (C12-C20)alkyl sulfates, (Clz-
25 C2o)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in
the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or
a mixture of these compounds. Better still, it is preferable to use sodium lauryl ether
sulfate comprising 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably (a) non-
3 0 silicone surfactant(s), which can be used in the present invention can in particular be
derivatives of secondary or tertiary, optionally quaternized aliphatic amines, in which
derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22
carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives comprising at least one anionic group, such
as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (Ca-
C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-
C8)alkylsulfo betaines.
Among the secondary or tertiary, optionally quaternized aliphatic amine
5 derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the
compounds of respective structures (AI) and (A2):
Ra-C(0)-NH-CH~-CH~-N'(R~)(RC)-CH~C(OM)iO, -X,- (A])
in which formula (Al):
Ra represents a C~O-Ca~lkOyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
10 RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl
group;
Rb represents a P-hydroxyethyl group; and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
M' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-
15 earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic
amine, and
X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that
chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CI-C4)alkyl sulfates, (CIC4)
alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylaryCsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl
20 sulfate; or alternatively MC and X- are absent;
Ray-C(0)-NH-CH2-CH2-N(B)(B') (A21
in which formula (A2):
B represents the group -CH2-CH2-0-X;
B' represents the group -(CH2)zY1w, ith z = 1 or 2;
25 X' represents the group -CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-C(O)OZ', -CH2-CH2-C(O)OH,
or
-CH2-CH2-C(O)OZY, or a hydrogen atom;
Y' represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ', -CH2-CH(0H)-S03H or the
group -CH2-CH(0H)-SO3-Z';
30 Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkalineearth
metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic
amine;
Ra' represents a Clo-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-C(0)OH
preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group,
especially of C Ia~nd its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993,
5 under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroarnphodiacetate,
disodiurn caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium
cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium
caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate,
lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
10 By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold
by the company Rhodia under the trade name ~iranol@C2 M Concentrate.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is
preferably made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-
C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures
15 thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen
h m cocamidopropylbetaine and cocobetaine.
The cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according
to the invention comprise, for example, salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated
primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and their
20 mixtures.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned
include:
- those corresponding to the general formula (A3) below:
25 in which formula (A3):
R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or
branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic
group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R8
to Rll comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon
30 atoms; and
X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that
chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-
C4)alkyl- or (CI-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl
sulfate.
5 The aliphatic groups of R8 to R11 may also comprise heteroatoms
especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulhr and halogens.
The aliphatic groups of R8 to R11 are chosen, for example, from CI-CTO
alkyl, CI-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Cs)alkylene, Cl-C30 alkylamide, (C12-
C22)alkylamido(C2-Cs)alkyl, (C12-C~~)alkylacetatCel,- C30 hydroxyalkyl, X- is an
10 anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CI-C4)alkyl
sulfates, and (CI-C4)alkyl- or (CI-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A3), preference is given
firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylamrnonium or
alkyltrimethylamrnonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately
15 from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrirnethylammonium chloride,
distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylamrnonium chloride,
benzyldimethy lstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly,
distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate,
dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylamrnonium methosulfate or
20 distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly,
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(
myristy1 acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name CeraphylB 70
by the company Van Dyk;
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula
25 (A4) below:
in which formula (A4):
R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon
atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives;
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl
radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R14 represents a CI-C4 alkyl group;
R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a CI-C4 alkyl group;
X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that
chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CI-C4)alkyl sulfates, (CIC4)
alkyl- or (CI-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates.
R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups
comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives,
10 RI4 denotes a methyl group, and RI5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is
sold, for example, under the name RewoquatB W 75 by the company Rewo;
- di- or triquatemary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (A5) below:
in which formula (A5):
R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon
atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen
atoms;
R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from I to 4 carbon
atoms or a group -(CH?)~-N+(R6Ia )(~17a)(~18aX)-,;
20 R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or
different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4
carbon atoms; and
X-, which may be identical or different, represents an organic or inorganic
anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates,
25 (CI-C4)alkyl sulfates, (CI-C4)alkyl- or (CI-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates. in particular
methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, provided by Finetex
(Quaternium 89), or Finquat CT, provided by Finetex (Quaternium 75);
- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester hnctioris, such
3 0 as those of formula (A6) below:
R22 ('46)
in which formula (A6):
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl
groups,
5 RZ3 is selected from:
0
II
- the group R 2 ~ C - ,
- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-CZ2 hydrocarbon-based
groups R27,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is selected from:
0
II
- the group R 2 r C -
- the groups R29, which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated CIC6
hydrocarbon-based radicals;
- a hydrogen atom,
15 RZ4, RZ6 and RZ8, which are identical or different, are selected from linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to
6,
rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, with
20 r2+r 1 =2r and t l +t2=2t,
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to
10,
X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion,
25 with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from I to 15, that when x is 0, then
R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R29
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly
linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl
group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may have
5 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3
carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R2*, which may be identical or different, are
chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated CII - C ~h]y drocarbon-based
10 groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1l-
C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
y is advantageously equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, equal 2 or 3, and
15 even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anionic counterion X- is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide
or iodide; a (CI-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (CI-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylaryl-sulfonate.
However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion
derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is
20 compatible with the ammonium containing an ester fbnction.
The anionic counterion X- is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate
or ethyl sulfate.
Use is made more particularly in the composition according to the invention
of the ammonium salts of formula (A6) in which:
25 - R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
- x and y are equal to 1,
- z is equal to 0 or 1,
- r, s and t are equal to 2,
- R23 is chosen from:
0
I I
the group R,C -
methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,
a hydrogen atom,
- R25 is chosen from:
the group R 2 r C -
a hydrogen atom,
- W4, W6 and W8, which may be identical or different, arc chosen from
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and
5 more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and
alkenyl groups.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
Among the compounds of formula (A6), examples that may be mentioned
include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of
10 diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammoniurn,
monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylarnmonium,
triacyloxyethylmethylammoniurn or
monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl
groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originate more particularly
15 from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound
comprises several acyl groups, the latter can be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of
triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an
alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or
20 with mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of
their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an
alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl
sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl
para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
25 Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquartw by the
company Henkel, StepanquatB by the company Stepan, Noxamium@ by the
company Ceca or RewoquatB WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a
mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of monoesters, diesters and triesters with a
30 weight majority of diester salts.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester
function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride
sold by KAO under the name Quatamin BTC 13 1.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester hnction
contain two ester functions.
5 Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition
according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose
cetyltrirnethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium
salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly
behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylarnmonium chloride, and
10 dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylamrnonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the composition used
according to the invention are described, for example, in the Hundbook of'
Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London),
1991, pp. 116-178. They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated,
15 polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated (CI-Czo)alkylphenols containing at least one
fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of
ethylene oxide andlor propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to
50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene
20 oxide, optionally oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters,
polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl polyglycosides,
alkyl glucoside esters, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and of Nacylmethylglucamine,
aldobionamides and amine oxides.
The additional nonionic surfactants are chosen more particularly from
25 mono- or polyoxyalkylenated or mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The
oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a
combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
Examples of additional oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be
mentioned include:
3 0 - oxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated CR-C?;O
amides;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs-C3a acids and of
polyethylene glycols;
- polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
CS-C~aOci ds and of sorbitol;
- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils,
- condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone
5 or as mixtures;
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones.
The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide
and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and
preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not
10 comprise any oxypropylene units.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters of
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol comprising
from 1 to 100 rnol of ethylene oxide.
15 As examples of mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, preference
is given to using mono- or polyglycerolated CS-C~aOlc ohols.
More particularly, the mono- or polyglycerolated Ca-Cdo alcohols
correspond to formula (A7) below:
R290-[CHz-CH(CH20H)-O]m-H (A71
in which formula (A7):
R29 represents a linear or branched CB-C~aOnd preferably Cs-Clo alkyl or
akenyl radical; and
m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
As examples of compounds of formula (A7) that are suitable within the
25 context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of
glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol comprising 1.5
rnol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name:
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol comprising 2 rnol of glycerol (INCI name:
Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol comprising 2 rnol of glycerol, cetearyl
3 0 alcohol comprising 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol comprising 6 mol of
glycerol, and octadecanol comprising 6 rnol of glycerol.
The mono- or polyglycerolated alcohol of formula (A7) may represent a
mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value,
which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty
alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
Among the mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is preferred more
particularly to use a Cs/Clo alcohol with one mole of glycerol, a C I O / Cal~co~h ol with
5 I mol of glycerol and a C12 alcohol with 1.5 mol of glycerol.
Preferably, the additional surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionic surfactants
and from anionic surfactants. More particularly, the surfactant(s) present in the
composition are chosen from nonionic surfactants.
In the composition of the invention, the amount of additional surfactant(s)
10 other than the oxyethylenated fatty alcohols preferably ranges from 0.1% to 50% by
weight and better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one
or more mineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays and fumed silicas, or
15 mixtures thereof.
The organophilic clay may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite,
hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a
bentonite or a hectorite.
These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from
20 quaternary ammoniums, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps,
fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and mine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made, as organophilic clays, of quaternium-18 bentonites.
such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by
Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone
2 5 XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names
Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and
Claytone APA by Southern Clay; and quaternium- lR/benzalkonium bentonites, such
as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by Southern Clay.
The fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature pyrolysis of a
3 0 volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided
silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas having a
large number of silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are sold, for
example, under the names Aerosil 1308, Aerosil2008, Aerosil2558, Aerosil 3008
and Aerosil 3808 by the company Degussa, and Cab-0-Sil HS-58, Cab-0-Sil EM58,
Cab-0-Sil LM-1308, Cab-0-Sil MS-558 and Cab-0-Sil M-58 by the company
Cabot.
It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica via chemical
reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. It is possible in particular to
5 replace silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then
obtained.
The hydrophobic groups can be:
- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed
silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as
10 "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for
example, under the references Aerosil R8128 by the company Degussa and Cab-OSil
TS-5308 by the company Cabot.
- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in
particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or
15 dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate"
according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the
references Aerosil R9728 and Aerosil R9748 by the company Degussa, and Cab-OSil
TS-6108 and Cab-0-Sil TS-7208 by the company Cabot.
The fumed silica preferably exhibits a particle size which can be nanometric
20 to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.
The preferred mineral thickeners are chosen from hectorites,
organomodified bentonites and optionally modified fumed silicas.
When it is present, the mineral thickener preferably represents from 1% to
30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
25 The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one
or more organic thickeners.
These thickeners may be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconut
monoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid
monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulose-based thickeners
3 0 (hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose or carboxymethyl cellulose), guar
gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin
(xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or of
acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising
hydrophilic regions and hydrophobic regions having a fatty chain (alkyl or alkenyl
chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) that are capable, in an aqueous medium,
of reversibly associating with one another or with other molecules).
According to one particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen
h m cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose or
5 carboxymethyl cellulose), guar gum and derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar),
gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum) and crosslinked
homopolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably
fi-om cellulose-based thickeners in particular with hydroxyethyl cellulose.
The content of organic thickener(s), if they are present, usually ranges from
10 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably fi-om 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the
weight of the composition of the invention.
The composition of the invention generally comprises water andor one or
more organic solvents.
Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or
15 branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and
polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,
propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and
monoethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols, for instance benzyl alcohol or
phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
20 Such organic solvents may be present in proportions preferably of between
1% and 40% by weight and more preferentially between 5% and 30% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises water. More
preferably, the composition comprises at least 5% by weight of water, preferably at
25 least 10% by weight of water and better still at least 20% by weight of water relativc
to its total weight.
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one
or more adjuvants, chosen fi-om those conventionally used in compositions for dyeing
keratin fibres, such as penetrants, sequestrants, fi-agrances, dispersants, film-forming
30 agents, ceramides, preserving agents or opacifiers.
The above adjuvants may generally be present in an amount, for each of
them, of between 0.01% and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the
composition.
The composition of the invention may result from the mixing of several
compositions. More preferentially, it results from the mixing at the time of use (it is
then referred to as a ready-to-use composition) of two or three compositions, even
more preferentially of two compositions (A) and (B), (A) comprising one or more
5 oxidation dyes as defined previously and (B) comprising one or more oxidizing
agents as defined previously. Preferably, (A) comprises one or more basifLing
agents. The liquid fatty substance(s), the solid fatty alcohol(s), the oxyethylenated
fatty alcohol(s) and the cationic polymer(s) of the invent ion are then, independently
of each other, present in at least one of the compositions (A) or (B).
10 Even more preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) are present only in composition
(A).
Advantageously, composition (A) is in the form of an emulsion, a gel or a
cream.
Advantageously, composition (B) is in the form of a solution, an emulsion
15 or a gel.
A subject of the present invention is also a process for the oxidation dyeing
of keratin fibres, comprising the application to the said wet or dry keratin fibres of
the dye composition as described above.
According to the invention, this composition applied to the keratin fibres
20 preferentially results from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B), this mixing being
performed either before application to the keratin fibres (extemporaneous
preparation) or directly on the keratin fibres (successive application to the fibres of
compositions (A) and (B) without intermediate rinsing).
Thus, according to a first variant of the process according to the invention,
25 compositions (A), and then (B), are applied to the wet or dry keratin fibres,
successively and without intermediate rinsing.
According to a second variant of the process according to the invention, a
composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application, of the
compositions (A) and (B) is applied to the wet or dry keratin fibres.
30 Independently of the variant used, the weight ratio of the amount of
composition (A) used to the amount of composition (B) used may range from 0.2 to
3 and preferably from 0.5 to 2.
The pH of the final mixture applied to the hair may advantageously range
from 6 to 1 1.5, better still from 7 to 11 and even better still from 8 to 1 I .
In addition, the composition of the invention, i.e. preferably the mixture
present on the fibres (resulting either from the extemporaneous mixing of
compositions (A) and (B) or from the successive application of these compositions)
is left in place for a time generally from about 1 minute to 1 hour and preferably
5 from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.
The temperature during the process is conventionally between room
temperature (from 15 to 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature
and 60°C.
After the treatment, the keratin fibres are generally rinsed with water,
10 optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, after which they are
dried or left to dry.
Finally, a subject of the invention is also a multi-compartmcnt dyeing
device or "kit", comprising a first compartment containing a composition (A), and a
second compartment containing a composition (B), compositions (A) and (B) being
15 such that their mixing leads to the composition of the invention as described above.
This device may advantageously be equipped with a means for dispensing
the desired mixture on the hair, such as the devices described in patent FR 2 586 9 13.
This device may be accompanied by one or more compositions fbr washing
and/or conditioning keratin fibres, which are intended to be applied before or after
20 the dyeing and/or bleaching treatment according to the invention.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however,
being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLE
25 The oxidation dye compositions (A) below were prepared (in the table below, the
amounts are expressed as grams of active material):
Dye compositions {A):
I Compositions I A1 I A2 / A3 ( A4
I camellia oil
/ Olive oil
1 Fragrance 1 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.5 1 0.5
~kxadimethrincc hloridc (Mexomer PO
from Chimex)
Polyquatemium-6 (Merquat 100 from
Nalco)
/ Water I qs 100 / qs 100 I qs 100 I qs 100
Oxidizing com~osition(B ): (in grams of active material)
0.72
0.3
0.4 0.72
-
2
-
Hydrogen peroxide
Sodium stannate
Tetrasodium pyrophosphate decahydrate
The compositions described above were mixed at the time of use in the
following manner:
5 - the dye composition (Al) was mixed with the oxidizing composition (B),
in a weight ratio (Al):(B) of 1 : 1.5;
- the dye composition (A2) was mixed with the oxidizing composition (B),
in a weight ratio (A2):(B) of 1 : 1.5;
- the dye composition (A3) was mixed with the oxidizing composition (B),
10 in a weight ratio (A3):(B) of 1 : 1.5;
- the dye composition (A4) waq mixed with the oxidizing composition (B),
in a weight ratio (A4):(B) of 1 : 1.
These mixtures led to ready-to-use compositions that are particularly easy to
apply, and that remain localized at the point of application.
15 In each case, the mixture obtained was applied to locks of hair, at a rate of
10 g of mixture per 1 g of locks. After a leave-on time of 30 minutes, the locks were
rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried. The application is eay, the
mixtures are easy to spread on the hair and remain localized on the locks.
In the four cases, the colorations obtained are very homogeneous and
20 particularly strong.
6
0.04
0.02
Pentasodium pentetate
Glycerol
Cetylstearyl alcohol
Cetylstearyl alcohol containing 25 OE
Trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA
Water
0.06
0.5
2.28
0.57
0.85
as 100
1. Composition for dyeing keratin fibres, comprising:
- one or more oxidation dyes,
- one or more basifying agents,
5 - one or more non-oxyalkylenated fatty substances that are liquid at room
temperature, chosen from C6-CI6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than
16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type,
synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids andlor of fatty
alcohols other than triglycerides, and silicones, and mixtures thereof, in a content of
10 less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- one or more oxidizing agents,
- one or more oxyethylenated fatty alcohols with a number of oxyethylene
units of greater than or equal to 10,
- one or more oxyethylenated fatty alcohols with a number of oxyethylene
15 units of less than 10,
- one or more non-oxyethylenated fatty alcohols that are solid at room
temperature, and
- one or more cationic polymers.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the basifying
20 agent is chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkaline carbonates, sodium hydroxide,
potassium hydroxide, organic amines, and the compounds of formula (I) below:
in which W is a CI-C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted with a
25 hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical
or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C1-C6 alkyl, CI-C6 hydroxyalkyl, or CICg
arninoalkyl radical;
and is preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, and in particular
rnonoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolarnine.
3. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in
that the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali
metal brornates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for inqtance alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and redox enzymes
5 such as laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases, optionally in the
presence of the respective donor or cofactor thereof; and is preferably hydrogen
peroxide.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the oxidation dyes are chosen from oxidation bases, optionally combined with
10 one or more couplers.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the fatty substance(s) that are liquid at room temperature are chosen from
hydrocarbon-based oils comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin
and liquid petroleum jelly; esters of C,-Cz6 aliphatic monoacids and of Cl-C26
15 aliphatic monoalcohols, these esters having a total number of carbon atoms of greater
than or equal to 10; fatty alcohols; plant oils; and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the content of fatty substance(s) that are liquid at room temperature ranges
fiom 0.5% to 15% by weight and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to
20 the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the oxyethylenated fatty alcohol(s) with a number of oxyethylene units of
greater than or equal to 10 are chosen from those in which the number of
oxyethylene units is greater than or equal to 15, and preferably from oxyethylenatcd
25 cetyl and stearyl alcohols, comprising at least 15 and better still at least 20
oxyethylene units.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the content of oxyethylenated fatty substances with a number of oxyethylene
units of greater than or equal to 10 ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight and better
30 still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the oxyethylenated fatty alcohol(s) with a number of oxyethylene units of lcss
than 10 are chosen from those in which the number of oxyethylene units is less than
or equal to 5, and preferably from oxyethylenated cetyl and stearyl alcohols,
comprising less than 5 oxyethylene units.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the content of oxyethylenated fatty substances with a number of
5 oxyethylene units of less than 10 ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, better still
from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.4% to 2% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the non-oxyethylenated fatty alcohol(s) that are solid at room
10 temperature comprise from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 16 to 24
carbon atoms, and are chosen more preferentially from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol
and behenyl alcohol.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the content of non-oxyethylenated fatty alcohols that are solid at
15 room temperature ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 15%
by weight and even better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from:
20 ( I ) Homopolymers or copolymers derived fiom crosslinked or noncrosslinked
acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the
units of formula (I), (11), (111) or (IV) below:
- C H 2 q - -CH2$ C H J -
in which:
5 R1 and R2, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom
or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;
R3, which may be identical or different at each occurrence, denotes a
hydrogen atom or a CH3 group;
A, which may be identical or different, in each case represents a linear or
10 branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atom, or a
hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
%, R5 and %, which may be identical or different, each represent an alkyl
group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl
group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
15 X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a
methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;
(2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially those chosen from:
- cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups;
- cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-solublc
20 quaternary ammonium monomer;
- guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups;
(3) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent akylene or
hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally
interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic
25 rings, and also the oxidation andlor quaternization products of these polymers;
(4) Water-soluble cationic polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by
polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides
possibly being crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a saturated or
in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to I; Rlz
denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; Rlo and RII, independently of one
another, denote an alkyl group having fiom 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl
25 group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower
amidoalkyl group (i.e. the alkyl part of which is CI-C4), or else Rlo and R I m~a y,
together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic
groups, such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride,
acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate;
unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bisazetidinium,
a bis-haloacyldiamine or a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer
resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive towards a
bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an
5 epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; these polyaminoamides
possibly being alkylated, or quaternized if they contain one or more tertiary amine
functions;
(5) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of
polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with
10 difunctional agents;
(6) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine
containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a
dicarboxylic acid chosen fiom diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic
acids having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms;
15 (7) Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylarnmonium cyclopolymers, such as
homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, units
corresponding to the formula (V) or (VI):
(8) The quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units
corresponding to formula (VII):
in which:
RI3, R14, RI5 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent
aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or
10 lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups (i.e. the alkyl part of which is CI-Cd), or
altcrnativcly RI3, RI4, RI5 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with thc
nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a
second hetcroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, RI5 and R16 each
represent a linear or branched CI-Ca~lk yl group substituted with a nitrilc, cstcr, acyl
15 or amide group or a -CO-0-R17-E or -CO-NH-R17-E group whcrc R17 is an akylcne
group and E is a quaternary ammonium group;
A1 and B1 represent polymethylcne groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon
atoms, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated and may
contain, joined to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or
20 one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfidc, amino,
alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and
X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
Al, R Ia~nd Rl5 may, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they arc attachcd, form a
piperazine ring; moreover, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or
25 unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, BI may also denote a group:
-(CHz),-CO-El-OC-(CHz),-
in which n denotes an integer from 0 to 7 and E' denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula -0-Z-0-, in which Z denotes a linear or
branched hydrocarbon-based group, or a group corresponding to one of the following
3 0 formulae:
-(CHz-CH2-O),-CHz-CHz-[
CH2-CH(CH3)-OIy-CH2-CH(CH3)-
in which x and y each denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined
and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an
average degree of polymerization;
5 b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such a$ a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y
denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or alternatively the divalent
group -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
10 (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (IX):
(IX)
in which:
p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6 approximately;
D may be nothing or may represent a group
--(CH2), 4 0 - in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7; and
X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrmlidone and of vinylimidazole;
(1 1) Ethoxylated cationic tallow polyamines;
20 (12) Vinylamide homopolymers or copolymers and in particular partially
hydrolysed vinylamide homopolymers such as poly(vinylamine/vinylamide)s;
(1 3) Cationic polyurethanes;
(14) Cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines,
in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or
25 vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives;
and preferably the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from alkyldiallylamine or
dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers of family (7), and more particularly
dimethyldiallylammoniurn chloride homopolymer; and quaternary diammonium
polymers of family (8), especially such as hexadimethrine chloride.
30 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the content of cationic polymers ranges from 0.01% to 10% by
weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5% to
3% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in I
that it results from the mixing of several compositions and preferably of two
5 compositions (A) and (B), (A) comprising one or more oxidation dyes and (13)
comprising one or more oxidizing agents.
16. Process for dyeing keratin fibres, comprising the application to the said
wet or dry fibres of the dye composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1
to 15.
10 17. Process for dyeing keratin fibres according to Claim 16, comprising the
application of compositions (A) and then (B) as defined in Claim 15, successively
and without intermediate rinsing, to the said wet or dry fibres.
18. Process for dyeing keratin fibres according to Claim 16, comprising the
application to the said wet or dry fibres of a composition obtained by the
15 extemporaneous mixing of compositions (A) and then (B) as defined in Claim 15.
19. Multi-compartment dyeing device or "kit", comprising a first
compartment containing a composition (A), and a second compartment containing a
composition (B), compositions (A) and (B) being such that their mixing leads to a I
composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 15.