TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a composition which is preferable for keratin substance,
10 preferably keratin fibers, and more preferably eyelashes, such as a mascara, as well as a
process which relates to the composition.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
15 Mascaras are commonly prepared as two types of formulations:
20
25
30
aqueous mascaras, known as, for example, cream mascaras, in the form of an emulsion
including water; and
anhydrous mascaras, known as, for example, waterproof mascaras, in the form of a dispersion
of waxes, etc. in volatile organic solvents.
An aqueous mascara in the form of an emulsion such as an 0/W emulsion can be removed
easily with water. However, it may be difficult for the aqueous mascara in the form of an
emulsion to provide long-lasting cosmetic effects against sweat etc. due to the presence of
water therein.
An anhydrous mascara can provide long-lasting cosmetic effects against sweat, etc. than the
aqueous mascara. However, it may not be easy for the anhydrous mascara to be easily
removed from eyelashes. Also, it may cause smudging around eyes due to sebum on the
skin around the eyes such as eyelids.
Thus, there is a need for a composition for keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, which can
provide long-lasting cosmetic effects, without smudging, while it can be easily removed from
eyelashes.
35 DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition for keratin fibers such as
eyelashes, in particular a mascara, which can provide long-lasting cosmetic effects such as
long-lasting volume-increasing effects, without smudging, while it can be easily removed
40 from eyelashes.
The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, comprising:
(a) at least one first liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from vinylester
(co )polymers;
45 (b) at least one second liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from polyester of
polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid;
(c) at least one oil; and
(d) at least one wax
wherein
50 the amount of the (a) first film-forming polymer is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably
1
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from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition, and
the amount of the (b) second film-forming polymer is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight,
preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight,
5 relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymer may be selected from copolymers of:
(i) at least one vinylester monomer wherein a vinyl group is directly linked to the
oxygen atom of an ester group, and the ester group comprises a radical chosen from
10 saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals of 1 to 19 carbon atoms,
preferably from 8 to 19 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 19 carbon
atoms, linked to the carbon atom of the carbonyl moiety of the ester group, and
15
(ii) at least one other monomer selected from a vinylester different from the (i) vinylester
monomer, an a-olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether, and an allylic or methallylic ester.
The (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymer may be vinyl acetate/allyl stearate.
The (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to
the present invention in an amount of from 1.0% to 2.2% by weight, preferably 1.2% to 2.0%
20 by weight, and more preferably 1.4% to 1.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The fatty acid ofthe polyester of polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid ofthe (b) second liposoluble
film-forming polymer may be selected from linear and saturated C6 to C3o, preferably Cs to
25 C24, and more preferably C10 to C1s fatty acids.
The (b) second liposoluble film-forming polymer may be polyvinyllaurate.
The (b) second liposoluble film-forming polymer may be present in the composition
30 according to the present invention in an amount of from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, preferably
0.7% to 1.4% by weight, and more preferably 0.9% to 1.3% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
35
The (c) oil may be selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.
The (c) oil may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount
of from 20%.to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably
40% to 60% by weight; relative to the total weight of the composition.
40 The (d) wax may be selected from non-polar waxes, preferably non-polar hydrocarbon waxes,
and more preferably non-polar natural hydrocarbon waxes such as bees wax, carnauba wax,
rice bran wax and mixtures thereof.
The (d) wax may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an
45 amount of from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more
preferably 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight ofthe composition.
50
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one third
liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.
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The composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous.
The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition,
preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, and more preferably a cosmetic
5 composition for eyelashes, in particular a mascara.
10
The present invention may also relates to a cosmetic process for making-up keratin substance,
preferably keratin fibers, and more preferably eyelashes, comprising the steps of:
applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin substance.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a
composition for keratin fibers such as eyelashes, in particular a mascara, which can provide
15 long-lasting cosmetic effects such as long-lasting volume-increasing effects, without
smudging, while it can be easily removed from eyelashes.
Thus, the composition according to the present invention is a composition, comprising:
(a) at least one first liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from vinylester
20 (co)polymers;
(b) at least one second liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from polyester of
polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid;
(c) at least one oil; and
(d) at least one wax
25 wherein
the amount of the (a) first film-forming polymer is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably
from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition, and
the amount of the (b) second film-forming polymer is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight,
30 preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention can provide keratin substance, preferably
keratin fibers, and more preferably eyelashes, with cosmetic effects such as
35 volume-increasing effects. Namely, the composition according to the present invention can
can increase the thickness of the keratin substance.
The cosmetic effects provided by the composition according to the present invention can be
long-lasting or can be maintained for a long period of time. The long-lastingness may be
40 represented by the maintenance of the uniformity over time of a film formed by the
composition according to the present invention.
45
50
The composition according to the present invention can reduce or does not cause smudging
which may be caused around the eyes, such as eyelids.
The composition according to the present invention can form a cosmetic film on keratin
substance, preferably keratin fibers, and more preferably eyelashes, which can be easily
removed from the keratin substance. Therefore, the composition according to the present
invention has excellent removability.
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Thus, according to the present invention, it is possible to provide keratin fibers such as
eyelashes with cosmetic effects, such as volume-increasing effects, which can last for a long
time of period, without smudging, while the composition according to the present invention
can be easily removed from the keratin fibers. Therefore, the composition according to the
5 present invention is preferable for eyelashes. In particular, the composition according to the
present invention is useful as a mascara.
Since the composition according to the present invention comprises the first and second
film-forming polymers, it can also provide keratin substance, preferably keratin fibers, and
10 more preferably eyelashes, with curl-maintaining effects.
The present invention may be characterized by the use of
(a) at least one first liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from vinylester
(co)polymers, and
15 (b) at least one second liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from polyester of
polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid
in a composition for keratin substance, preferably keratin fibers, and more preferably
eyelashes, comprising
(c) at least one oil, and
20 (d) at least one wax
wherein
the amount of the (a) first film-forming polymer is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably
from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition, and
25 the amount of the (b) second film-forming polymer is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight,
preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition
in order to provide long-lasting cosmetic effects such as long-lasting volume-increasing
effects, without smudging, and to improve or enhance removability of the composition from
30 the keratin substance.
Hereinafter, the composition, process and use according to the present invention will be
explained in a more detailed manner.
35 [Composition]
(First Liposoluble Film-Forming Polymer)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one first liposoluble
40 film-forming polymer. If two or more (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymers are used,
they may be the same or different.
The term "film-forming polymer" here means a polymer capable of, by itself or in the
presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, forming a continuous film that adheres to a
45 support or substrate and especially to keratin substance, for instance eyelashes. The
film-forming polymer contributes to curl keeping property.
50
The (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymer is selected from vinylester (co)polymers, i.e.,
homopolymers or copolymers of vinyl ester.
4
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The (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymer may be selected from copolymers of:
(i) at least one vinylester monomer wherein a vinyl group is directly linked to the
oxygen atom of an ester group, and the ester group comprises a radical chosen from
saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals of 1 to 19 carbon atoms,
5 preferably from 8 to 19 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 19 carbon
atoms, linked to the carbon atom of the carbonyl moiety of the ester group, and
(ii) at least one other monomer selected from a vinylester different from the (i) vinylester
monomer, an a-olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether, and an allylic or methallylic ester.
10 It may be preferable that the a-olefin have from 8 to 28 carbon atoms. It may also be
preferable that the alkyl vinyl ether have an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 18 carbon
atoms. It may also be preferable that the allylic or methallylic ester comprises a saturated,
linear or branched, hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to
the carbon of the carbonyl moiety of the ester group.
15
The above copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents that may be either of the
vinylic type or of the allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene,
divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate.
20 Examples of these copolymers which may be mentioned include the following copolymers:
vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyllaurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl
acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyllaurate, vinyl
propionate/vinyllaurate, vinyl stearate/1-octadecene, vinyl acetate/1-dodecene, vinyl
stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl
25 2,2-dimethyloctanoate/vinyllaurate, allyl 2,2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyllaurate, vinyl
dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, vinyl
propionate/vinyl stearate, crosslinked with divinylbenzene, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl
laurate, crosslinked with divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with
tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with divinylbenzene, vinyl
30 acetate/1-octadecene, crosslinked with divinylbenzene, and allyl propionate/allyl stearate,
crosslinked with divinylbenzene.
35
40
It is preferable that the (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymer be vinyl acetate/allyl
stearate such as those sold under the name Mexomere PQ by Chimex.
The amount of the (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to
the present invention is 0.4% by weight or more, and may be preferably 0.6% by weight or
more, and more preferably 0.8% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The amount of the (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to
the present invention is 3.0% by weight or less, and may be preferably 2.8% by weight or less,
and more preferably 2.6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
45 Thus, the amount of the (a) first liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition
according to the present invention is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.6% to
2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
50 In a preferable embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the (a) first liposoluble
5
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film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1.0% by
weight or more, preferably 1.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.4% by weight or
more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5 In a preferable embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the (a) first liposoluble
film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 2.2% by
weight or less, preferably 2.0% by weight or less, and more preferably 1.8% by weight or less,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
10 Thus, in a preferable embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the (a) first
liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may
be from 1.0% to 2.2% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 2.0% by weight, and more
preferably from 1.4% to 1.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15 (Second Liposoluble Film-Forming Polymer)
20
25
The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one second
liposoluble film-forming polymer. If two or more (b) second liposoluble film-forming
polymers are used, they may be the same or different.
Again, the term "film-forming polymer" here means a polymer capable of, by itself or in the
presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, forming a continuous film that adheres to a
support or substrate and especially to keratin substance, for instance eyelashes. The
film-forming polymer contributes to curl keeping property.
The (b) second liposoluble film-forming polymer is selected from polyester of polyvinyl
alcohol and fatty acid.
The polyvinyl alcohol used in the polyester of polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid ofthe (b)
30 second liposoluble film-forming polymer is not particularly limited, and conventional
polyvinyl alcohol can be used. The polyvinyl alcohol has a certain degree of polymerization.
For example, polyvinyl alcohol having a degree of polymerization from 500 to 2000 can be
used.
35 The fatty acid used in the polyester of polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid ofthe (b) second
liposoluble film-forming polymer is not particularly limited, and may include linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C3o fatty acids, which are optionally substituted with
one or more hydroxyl groups. Preferentially, linear and saturated C6 to C3o, preferably Cs to
C24, and more preferably C10 to C1s fatty acids may be used.
40
45
In the polyester of polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid ofthe (b) second liposoluble film-forming
polymer, hydroxyl groups of polyvinyl alcohol are esterified with the fatty acids. The
hydroxyl groups of the polyvinyl alcohol may be fully esterified with the fatty acids, or the
hydroxyl groups of the polyvinyl alcohol may be partially esterified with the fatty acids.
It is preferable that the (b) second liposoluble film-forming polymer be polyvinyllaurate such
as those sold under the name Mexomere PP by Chimex.
The amount of the (b) second liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition according
50 to the present invention is 0.2% by weight or more, and may be preferably 0.3% by weight or
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more, and more preferably 0.4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The amount of the (b) second liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition according
5 to the present invention is 2.0% by weight or less, and may be preferably 1.8% by weight or
less, and more preferably 1.6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
Thus, the amount of the (b) second liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition
10 according to the present invention is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to
1.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
In a preferable embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the (b) second liposoluble
15 film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by
weight or more, preferably 0.7% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.9% by weight or
more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a preferable embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the (b) second liposoluble
20 film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1.5% by
weight or less, preferably 1.4% by weight or less, and more preferably 1.3% by weight or less,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thus, in a preferable embodiment of the present invention, the amount of the (b) second
25 liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to the present invention may
be from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 1.4% by weight, and more
preferably from 0.9% to 1.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
30
(Oil)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one oil. If two or
more (c) oils are used, they may be the same or different.
Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste
35 (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the
oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These
oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The (c) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar
40 oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
The (c) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin,
synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
45 As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil,
macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower
oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and
mixtures thereof.
50 As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
7
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As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and
isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
5 The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
C 1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters
being greater than or equal to 10.
10 Preferably, for the esters ofmonoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid
from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl
palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates
15 such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate,.
isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of
monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy,
20 trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyllauroyl sarcosinate;
diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate;
dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate;
25 triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl
trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene
glycol diisononanoate.
As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C3o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
30 It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds
containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which
comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides,
or polysaccharides.
35 Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose,
galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and
derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance
methylglucose.
40 The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters
or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C6-C3o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these
compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
45 The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters,
tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates,
cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof
8
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such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as
pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
More particularly, use is made ofmonoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or
5 methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates,
linolenates, and oleostearates~
10
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the
company Arnerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl
adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyllaurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl
octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate,
2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate,
15 isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyllauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl
isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyllaurate, hexyllaurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl
isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate),
pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and
mixtures thereof.
20
25
As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl
glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl
trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri( caprate/caprylate), and
glyceryl tri( caprate/ caprylate/linolenate ).
As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear
organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane,
methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
30 dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc.; and mixtures thereof.
35
40
Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl
group.
These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be
used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise
in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based
group.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology
of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
If they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling
45 point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon
atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular
under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2
by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone®
50 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and
9
5
10
15
20
(ii)
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dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive
Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of
cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as
Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, ofthe formula:
with D":
CH [D"-D'--0"-D'J
I 3
'---Si-0-
1
and with • D' :
CH3
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with
organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
oxy-1, 1 '-bis(2,2,2' ,2' ,3,3 '-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a
viscosity ofless than or equal to 5x1o-6 m2/s at 25°C. An example is
decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company
Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article
published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers,
Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at
25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more
particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
25 Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the
following commercial products:
the Silbione® oils of the 4 7 and 70 04 7 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for
instance th~ oil 70 047 V 500 000;
the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
30 the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a
viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s; and
the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF
18) from General Electric.
35 Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups
known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils ofthe 48 series from the
company Rhodia.
Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes,
40 especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:
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Rg-t:-01t: -O-+--+--r-0-+---+--Si-0--+---+--r -0---+-r-R.
R2 ~ R8 0 R7
p q I
Si-(RJ0)3
m
n
in which
R1 to RIO, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched
C1-C3o hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more
5 preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl
radicals, and
10
m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to
500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive,
with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming;
15 the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF
1250, and SF 1265.
As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R1 to RIO are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in
20 the above formula) is preferable.
25
The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or
polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by
Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16lower alkanes. Examples that may be
mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for
instanceisohexadecane,isododecane,andisodecane;and
30 linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as
liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated
polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or
35 branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid
paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene,
isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof .
. The term "fatty" in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of
40 carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols, which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more
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preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or
branched.
5 The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and
unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably
from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one
embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C2o alkyl and C12-C2o alkenyl groups. R may or
may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
10
15
As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made oflauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol,
octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol,
arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C6-C3o alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C3o alcohols, and more
20 preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C2o alcohols.
The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated
carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or
branched, saturated C6-C3o fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C3o
25 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C2o fatty alcohols may preferably be used.
Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C2o fatty alcohols may be more preferably used.
Branched C16-C2o fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
30 stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol,
octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as
well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
35 According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to
the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol,
and mixtures thereof.
It is also preferable that the (c) oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600
40 g/mol.
Preferably, the (c) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g/mol, chosen among
ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyllauroyl
sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl
45 palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane ), hydrocarbon oils
(e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane ), branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol
(C12-C3o) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as
dicaprylylether.
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It is preferable that the (c) oil be chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures
thereof.
It is preferable that the (c) oil be chosen from hydrocarbon oils.
It is even more preferable that the (c) oil be chosen from volatile and non-volatile
hydrocarbon oils, e.g., isododecane, paraffin, and hydrogenated polyisobutene.
The amount of the (c) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be
10 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by
weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (c) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be
80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight
15 or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
20
25
The amount of the (c) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be
from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably
from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Wax)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one wax. If two or
more (d) waxes are used, they may be the same or different.
The wax used herein is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature
(25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or
equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C.
30 By bringing the wax into a liquid state (melting), it is possible to make it miscible with oils
and to form a microscopically uniform mixture, but on cooling the mixture to room
temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained. For example,
the waxes that may be used herein may have a melting point of greater than 45°C, such as
greater than or equal to 50°C and further such as greater than or equal to 55°C. The melting
35 point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for
example, the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler. The
measuring protocol is as follows.
A sample of 15 mg of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise
40 ranging from 0°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 1 0°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to
ooc at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase
ranging from 0°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature
increase, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the
crucible containing the sample of product is measured as a function of the temperature. The
45 melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak
of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the
temperature.
The waxes that may be used in the compositions disclosed herein are chosen from waxes that
50 are solid and rigid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and
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mixtures thereof.
The wax may also have a hardness ranging, for example, from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa such as
from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive strength,
5 measured at 20°C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo,
equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter travelling at a measuring speed of
0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measuring
protocol is as follows.
10 The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20°C. The molten
wax is cast in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at
room temperature (25°C) over 24 hours and is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C before
performing the hardness measurement. The value of the hardness is the maximum
compressive strength measured divided by the area of the texturometer cylinder in contact
15 with the wax.
Hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax,
camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane
wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and
20 ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy
copolymers, and also esters thereof, may, for example, be used.
25
The waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils comprising linear or
branched Cs-C32 fatty chains, may, for example, also be used.
Among these oils, mention may be made, for example, ofhydrogenatedjojoba oil, isomerized
jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenatedjojoba oil manufactured or sold
by the company Desert Whale under the trade name "Iso-Jojoba-50®", hydrogenated
sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil,
30 bis(l, 1, 1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name "Hest 2T-4S" by the company
Heterene, and bis(l, 1, 1-trimethylolpropa- ne) tetrabehenate sold under the name "Rest
2T-4B" by the company Heterene.
35
Silicone waxes and fluoro waxes may, for example, also be used.
Further, for example, the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl
alcohol, sold under the name "Phytowax Olive 18 L 57", or the waxes obtained by
hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the name "Phytowax
Ricin 16L64 and 22L 73" by the company Sop him, may also be used. Such waxes are
40 described in French patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
In one embodiment, the composition as disclosed herein may comprise at least one "tacky"
wax, i.e., a wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness ofless than or
equal to 3.5 MPa. Using a tacky wax may, for example, make it possible to obtain a
45 cosmetic composition that applies easily to keratin fibers, attaches well to the keratin fibers
and leads to the formation of a smooth, uniform and thickening makeup result. The tacky
wax used may, for example, have a tack ranging from 0.7 N.s to 30 N.s, such as greater than
or equal to 1 N.s, for example, from 1 N.s to 20 N.s, further such as greater than or equal to 2
N.s, for example, from 2 N.s to 10 N.s and further, for example, from 2 N.s to 5 N.s. The
50 tack of the wax is determined by measuring the change in force (compression force or
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stretching force) as a function of time, at 20°C, using the texturometer sold under the name
"TA-TX2i®" by the company Rheo, equipped with a conical acrylic polymer spindle forming
an angle of 45°. The measuring protocol is as follows.
5 The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 1 0° C. The
molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is
recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat
and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C before measuring the tack.
10 The texturometer spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.5 mm/s then penetrates the wax to a
penetration depth of 2 mm. When the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 2 mm,
the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then
withdrawn at a speed of0.5 mm/s.
15 During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases greatly until it becomes
zero, and then, during the withdrawal ofthe spindle, the force (stretching force) becomes
negative and then rises again to the value 0. The tack corresponds to the integral of the
curve of the force as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to negative
values of the force (stretching force). The tack value is expressed in N.s.
20
25
30
35
The tacky wax that may be used generally has, for example, a hardness of less than or equal to
3.5 MPa, such as from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, further such as from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, and
even further such as from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.
The hardness is measured according to the protocol described above.
Tacky waxes that may be used include a Czo-C4o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (wherein
the alkyl group comprises from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, such as a
Czo-C4o alkyl 12-(12'-hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, of formula shown below:
0
H3c--f-cH+cH+cH~C-0-1-cHri-mcH2cH3 5 I lo
0
I
0~c+cHH--cH+cH+cH3 10 I 5 OH
wherein m is an integer ranging from 18 to 3 8, or a mixture of compounds thereof.
Such a wax is, for example, sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K
80 P®" by the company Koster Keenan.
The waxes mentioned above generally have, for example, a starting melting point of less than
45°C.
As disclosed herein, it is also possible to use waxes supplied in the form of small particles
40 having a size, expressed as the mean "effective" volume diameter D[4,3], ranging, for
example, from 0.5 to 30 micrometers, such as from 1 to 20 micrometers, further such as from
5 to 10 micrometers in size, which are used herein as "microwaxes".
The particle sizes may be measured by various techniques; mention may be made, for
15
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example, of light-scattering techniques (dynamic or static), Coulter counter methods,
sedimentation rate measurements (related to the size via Stoke's lax) and microscopy. These
techniques make it possible to measure a particle diameter and, for some of them, a particle
size distribution.
The sizes and size distributions of the particles in the compositions as disclosed herein are, for
example, measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the
MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering
theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine an
10 "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described,
for example, in the publication by Van de Hulst, H. C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles",
Chapters 9 and 1 0, Wiley, New York, 19 57.
The microwax used herein is characterized by its mean "effective" diameter by volume D[4,3],
15 defined in the following manner:
LV:·d;
D(4,3]= ; L v;
i
wherein Vi is the volume of the particles with an effective diameter di. This parameter
D[4,3] is described, for exaniple, in the technical documentation ofthe granulometer.
20 The measurements are performed at 25°C on a dilute particle dispersion, obtained from the
microwax iu the following manner: 1) dilution by a factor of 100 with water, 2)
homogenization ofthe solution, 3) standing ofthe solution for 18 hours, 4) recovery ofthe
whitish uniform supernatant.
25 The "effective" diameter is obtained by taking a refractive index of 1.33 for water and a mean
refractive index of 1.42 for the particles.
Among the microwaxes that may be used in the compositions as disclosed herein, mention
may be made, for example, of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name
30 "MicroCare 350®" by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as the
product sold under the name "MicroEase 114S®" by the company Micro Powders,
micro waxes comprising a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the
products sold under the name "Micro Care 300®" and "Micro Care 31 0®" by the company
Micro Powders, microwaxes comprising a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such
35 as the product sold under the name "Micro Powders 325®" by the company Micro Powders,
polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names "Micropoly 200®",
"Micropoly 220®", "Micropoly 220L®", and "Micropoly 250S®" by the company Micro
Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene micropowders, such as the products sold under the
names "Microslip 519®" and "Microslip 519L®" bythe company Micro Powders.
40
The waxes (including the tacky wax) may be present in the form of an aqueous
microdispersion of wax. The term "aqueous microdispersion of wax" means an aqueous
dispersion of wax particles in which the size of the wax particles is less than or equal to 1 J.lm.
45 Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are described, for
example, in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977)
pages 21-32.
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For example, these wax microdispersions may be obtained by melting the wax in the presence
of a surfactant, and optionally in the presence of a portion of water, followed by gradual
addition of hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of an emulsion of the
water-in-oil type is observed, followed by a phase inversion, with final production of a
5 microemulsion of the oil-in-water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid wax
colloidal particles is obtained.
10
The wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and
water using stirring tools such as ultrasound, high-pressure homogenizers or turbomixers.
The particles of the wax microdispersion have, for example, mean sizes of less than 1 !liD
(such as ranging from 0.02 !liD to 0.99 !liD) and, for example, less than or equal to 0.5 !liD
(such as ranging from 0.06 !liD to 0.5 !liD).
15 These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes. However, they may
comprise a small proportion of oily and/or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and/or a common
liposoluble additive/active agent.
If the wax or the mixture of waxes is present in the compositions as disclosed herein in the
20 form of an aqueous dispersion of particles, the size of the particles, i.e., the mean "effective"
volume diameter D[4,3] as defined above, may be, for example, less than or equal to 1 !liD
such as less than or equal to 0.75 1-Lill.
25
The wax particles may have varied shapes. For example, they may be spherical.
It is preferable that the (d) wax be selected from non-polar waxes, more preferably non-polar
hydrocarbon waxes, and even more preferably non-polar natural hydrocarbon waxes such as
bees wax, camauba wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof.
30 The amount of the (d) wax( es) in the composition according to the present invention may be
1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight
or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (d) wax(es) in the composition according to the present invention may be
35 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight
or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (d) wax( es) in the composition according to the present invention may be
from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from
40 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(Third Liposoluble Film-Forming Polymer)
The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one third
45 liposoluble film-forming polymer. If two or more (e) third liposoluble film-forming
polymers are used, they may be the same or different.
Again, the term "film-forming polymer" here means a polymer capable of, by itself or in the
presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, forming a continuous film that adheres to a
50 support or substrate and especially to keratin substance, for instance eyelashes. The
17
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film-forming polymer contributes to curl keeping property.
The (e) third liposoluble film-forming polymer is selected from vinylpyrrolidone (VP)
copolymers.
It may be preferable that the vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers may be copolymers of
vinylpyrrolidone and of C2-C4o alkene such as C3-C2o alkene.
Among the VP copolymers which may be used herein, mention may be made, for example, of
10 the copolymers ofVP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone
(PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/ methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene,
VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.
The amount of the (e) third liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to
15 the present invention is 0.5% by weight or more, and may be preferably 1.0% by weight or
more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The amount of the (e) third liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition according to
20 the present invention is 5.0% by weight or less, and may be preferably 4.0% by weight or less,
and more preferably 3.0% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thus, the amount of the (e) third liposoluble film-forming polymer in the composition
according to the present invention is from 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to
25 4.0% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
(Fiber)
30 In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention may further
comprise at least one fiber to allow an improvement in the lengthening effect The fibers
useful in the present invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers and may be of
natural or synthetic fibers. Natural fibers include, but are not limited to, cotton, silk, wool,
and other keratin fibers. Synthetic fibers include, but are not limited to, polyester, rayon,
35 nylon, and other polyamide fibers. In some embodiments, fibers may be made of non-rigid
fibers such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibers, or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers, for
instance, those sold under the trade name "Kennel" and "Kennel Tech" by Rhodia, or
poly(p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) fibers sold especially under the name Kevlar®
by DuPont de Nemours.
40
The fibers may be present in the composition in an amount generally ranging from 0.01% to
1 0% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges
there between.
45 (Filler)
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise a filler selected from
those that are well known to a person skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic
compositions. The fillers should be understood to mean lamellar or non-lamellar, inorganic
50 or organic particles. Representative examples of these ingredients include mica, silica,
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kaolin, iron oxides, titanium dioxide, polyamide powders, polyamide powders, for instance
Nylon® (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-alanine powders, polyethylene powders,
tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, for instance Teflon®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron
nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene ~hloride/acrylonitrile,
5 for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic powders such as Polytrap® (Dow Corning),
polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example, Tospearls®
from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium
hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos ),
glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing
10 from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc stearate,
magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, or magnesium myristate.
The fillers, if present, are in amounts generally ranging from 0.1% to 25%, and preferably
from 1% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and
15 subranges therebetween.
(Dyestuff)
The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one
20 dyestuff. Suitable dyestuffs include but are not limited to pulverulent dyestuff, liposoluble
dyes, and water-soluble dyes. This dyestuff may be in the cosmetic composition in a
concentration ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition,
including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
25 The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres.
The pigments, which may be used according to the present invention, may be chosen from
white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, nonpolymeric, coated and uncoated pigments.
Representative examples of inorganic pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally
30 surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide,
manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Representative
examples of organic pigments include carbon black, pigments of D&C type, and lakes based
on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.
35 The nacres which may be used according to the present invention may be chosen from white
nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored
nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with iron oxides,
titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment
chosen from those mentioned above, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
40
Representative liposoluble dyes which may be used according to the present invention include
Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ~-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11,
DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto, and quinoline yellow.
45 The water-soluble dyes which may be used according to the present invention include
beetroot juice, methylene blue, the disodium salt of ponceau, the disodium salt of alizarin
green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the
monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, and xanthophyll.
50 (Other Optional Additives)
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The composition according to the present invention may also comprise any other additive(s)
usually used in the field of cosmetics, chosen from, for example, solvents, gums, resins,
hydrophilic thickening agents such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydrophobic thickening agents,
5 dispersants, antioxidants, preserving agents such as phenoxyethanol, fragrances,
UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or
collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
As the hydrophobic thickening agent, mention may be made, for example, of organomodified
10 clays, which are clays treated with compounds chosen in particular from quaternary amines
and tertiary amines. Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified
bentonites such as those which are commercially available under the name Bentone from the
· company Rheox, for instance those modified with distearyldimethylammonium halide, such
as chloride (Bentone 38 and Bentone 34), or the product modified with
15 stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride (Bentone 27).
The hydrophobic thickening agent may be chosen from C8-C30 fatty acid esters of glycerol,
and in particular C8-C30 fatty acid triesters of glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate
(tristearine ), such as the mixture of acetylated glycol stearate and of glyceryl tristearate, sold
20 under the name Unitwix by the company United Guardian.
25
30
The hydrophobic thickening agent may also be chosen from C8-C30 fatty acid esters of
dextrin, such as, especially, dextrin palmitate, especially those sold under the name Rheopearl
by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise water in an
amount of 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1%
by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, and most preferably no
water.
In other words, in one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is
anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present
invention comprises no water, or comprises water in an amount of 1 0% by weight or less,
preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the
35 total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise at least one
surfactant in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more
preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, and most
40 preferably no surfactant.
In other words, in one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is
substantially free from surfactant. The term "substantially free from surfactant" means that
the composition according to the present invention comprises no surfactant, or comprises at
45 least one surfactant in an amount of 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less,
and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric
surfactants, cationic surfactants, and nonionic surfactants. Two or more surfactants may be
50 used in combination. Thus, a single type of surfactant or a combination of different types of
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surfactants may be used. Preferably, according to the present invention, the "surfactant" is
capable of forming foam with water without additives.
(Cosmetic Product)
The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition,
preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin substance, more preferably a cosmetic
composition for keratin fibers, and even more preferably a cosmetic composition for
eyelashes.
The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition,
preferably a makeup cosmetic composition (in particular, an eye-makeup cosmetic
composition), and more preferably a mascara.
15 The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic
treatments, preferably makeup, of keratin fibers such as hair, eyebrows, and eyelashes.
It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a mascara, and more
preferably a water-proof mascara. The mascara according to the present invention can be
20 removable with a conventional cleansing products such as a cleansing oil.
25
It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention can be removed with
water, preferably warm water such as water with a temperature of from 30 to 45°C, preferably
from 35 to 37°C, with or without soap.
The composition according to the invention may be packed in a cosmetic product comprising
a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises the composition, the
container being closed by a closing member.
30 The container is preferably combined with an applicator, especially in the form of a brush
comprising an arrangement of bristles maintained by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is
described especially in patent US 4 887 622. It may also be in the form of a comb
comprising a plurality of application members, obtained especially by moulding. Such
combs are described for example in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be integrally
35 attached to the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959. Advantageously,
the applicator is integrally attached to a rod which is itself integrally attached to the closing
member.
The closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the
40 coupling between the closing member and the container is achieved by a method other than
by screwing, especially via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by tightening. The
term "click-fastening" in particular means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord
of material by elastic deformation of a portion, especially a closing member, followed by
return to the elastically unconstrained position of the said portion after crossing of the bead or
45 cord.
The container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material. Examples of
thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene or polyethylene.
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Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, especially glass or metal
(or alloy).
The container is preferably equipped with a drainer arranged in the region ofthe aperture of
5 the container. Such a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to
which it may be integrally attached. Such a drainer is described for example in patent FR 2
792 618.
10
[Preparation]
The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the
above-described essential and optional ingredients.
For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a process
15 comprising the step of
mixing the ingredients (a) to (d), as well as optional other ingredients of the composition,
preferably at a temperature of 90°C or more. It is preferable to further mix with any of the
above-described optional ingredients.
20 [Process and Use]
The composition according to the present invention can be used for coating keratin substance,
preferably keratin fibers, and more preferably eyelashes.
25 For example, the composition according to the present invention can be used by a process for
coating keratin fibers, comprising the step of:
applying onto the keratin fibers the composition according to the present invention to form at
least one coating on the keratin fibers,
wherein
30 the coating is removable from the keratin fibers using water and/or soap.
35
Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making-up keratin substance,
preferably keratin fibers, and more preferably eyelashes, comprising the steps of:
applying the composition according to the present invention onto the keratin substance.
The above cosmetic process may be intended for providing the keratin substance with curls,
as well as for maintaining the curl of keratin substance (i.e., for keeping curls) and/or for
increasing the thickness of the keratin fibers (i.e., for increasing volume).
40 The present invention may also relate to a use of
(a) at least one first liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from vinylester
(co )polymers, and
(b) at least one second liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from polyester of
polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid
45 in a composition for keratin substance, preferably keratin fibers, and more preferably
eyelashes, comprising
(c) at least one oil, and
(d) at least one wax
wherein
50 the amount of the (a) first film-forming polymer is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight, preferably
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from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition, and
the amount of the (b) second film-forming polymer is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight,
preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by weight,
5 relative to the total weight of the composition
in order to provide long-lasting cosmetic effects such as long-lasting volume-increasing
effects, without smudging, and to improve or enhance removability of the composition from
the keratin substance.
10 EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples.
However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present
invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the
15 present invention.
Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4
The cosmetic compositions (mascaras) for eyelashes according to Examples 1-3 and
20 Comparative Examples 1-4 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown
in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all
based on "% by weight" of raw materials.
23
tv
,j:::..
Ingredients
Isododecane
Beeswax
Copem icia Cerifera (Camauba) Wax Aqueous
Dispersion (27% by \Veight)
Disteardimonium Hectorite
CopemiciaCerifera (Camauba) Wax
Allyl StearateNinvl Acetate Copolymer
Paraffin
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax
Po1vvinyl Laurate
Vinv Jpyrrolidone!Eicos ene Copo Ivmer
Propylene Carbonate
Ethy lcnediamine./Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Copolymer
Talc
Jron Ox.ides
Preservatives
Evaluations
Volume
No Smudge
Uniformity ofFilm
Removability
Table 1
Ex; l
qsplOO
8
7
5
5
1.6
2
2
1.1
2
1.6
1
1
5
2
Very
Good
Very
Good
Very
Good
Very
Good
Ex.2 Ex.3
qsplOO qsplOO
8 8
7 7
5 5
5 5
1 2.2
2 2
2 2
0.5 1.5
2 2
1.6 L6
1 l
l 1
5 5
2 2
Good
Very
Good
Very
Good Good
Very Very
Good Good
Very Very
Good Good
Comp. Comp ..
Ex .. 1 Ex.2
qsplOO qsplOO
8 8
7 7
5 5
5 5
3.3 ~
2 2
2 2
2.2 -
2 2
L6 1.6
1 1
I 1
5 5
2 2
Very
Good Fair
Fair
Very
Good
Very
Good Fair
Good Very
Good
Comp.
Ex.3
qsplOO
8
7
5
5
-
2
2
2.2
2
1.6
I
I
5
2
Good
Good
Fair
Very
Good
I
Comp. '
Ex.4
qsplOO
8
7
5
5
3.3
2
2
-
2
1.6
1
I
5
2
Good
Good
Fair
Very
Good
:.;;
0
N
0
N ...... -......
-l
-l
~
N
a'"d
("")
~ N
0
N ......
0
0
QCI
0
~
0
wo 2021/177326 PCT/JP2021/008030
[Evaluations]
The cosmetic composition of each of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were
subjected to sensory evaluation tests with regard to volume, no smudge, uniformity of film
5 and removability by 7 testers under the following criteria shown in Table 2. Each property
was evaluated in stages to a score of 5, i.e., with a score of 1 to 5.
10
Table 2
Score Criteria
5 Very good
4 Good
3 Fair
2 Poor
1 Very poor
The average of the scores for each sample was sorted in accordance with the following
standard. The results are shown in Table 1.
Very Good: more than 4.5
15 Good: more than 3.0 and 4.5 or less
Fair: and 3.0 or less
(Volume)
20 Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was
applied by hand with a mascara brush onto eyelashes of the 7 testers (30 strokes each). After
6 hours, the volume (thickness of eyelash fibers) of the eyelashes provided by each
composition was evaluated as above. The results are shown in Table 1.
25 (No Smudge)
30
Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was
applied by hand with a mascara brush onto eyelashes of the 7 testers (30 strokes each). After
6 hours, the smudge under eyelid was evaluated as above. The results are shown in Table 1.
(Uniformity ofFilm)
Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was
applied onto a glass plate with an applicator to form a film with a thickness of 150 flm.
35 After 24 hours, the uniformity of the film was evaluated as above. The results are shown in
Table 1.
(Removability)
40 Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was
applied by hand with a mascara brush onto eyelashes of the 7 testers (30 strokes each). After
6 hours, the eyelashes were washed with a cleansing oil and rinsed off with warm water.
The removability of each composition was evaluated as above. The results are shown in
Table 1.
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As shown in Table 1, the cosmetic composition according to Examples 1-3 exhibited not only
advantageous cosmetic effects represented by superior volume-increasing and superior
film-uniformity, without smudging, but also advantageous removability with water.
On the other hand, the cosmetic composition according to Comparative Example 1 which
includes too much amount of the first and second liposoluble film-forming polymers caused
smudging.
10 The cosmetic composition according to Comparative Example 2 which includes no first and
second liposoluble film-forming polymers exhibited inferior volume-increasing and
uniformity of film.
The cosmetic composition according to Comparative Example 3 which includes no first
15 liposoluble film-forming polymer exhibited inferior uniformity of film.
The cosmetic composition according to Comparative Example 4 which includes no second
liposoluble film-forming polymer also exhibited inferior uniformity of film.

WE CLAIM.
1.
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2.
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CLAIMS
A composition, comprising:
(a) at least one first liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from vinylester
(co )polymers;
(b) at least one second liposoluble film-forming polymer selected from
polyester of polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid;
(c) at least one oil; and
(d) at least one wax
wherein
the amount of the (a) first film-forming polymer is from 0.4% to 3.0% by weight,
preferably from 0.6% to 2.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 2.6% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
the amount of the (b) second film-forming polymer is from 0.2% to 2.0% by weight,
preferably from 0.3% to 1.8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4% to 1.6% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) first liposoluble film-forming
polymer is selected from copolymers of:
(i) at least one vinylester monomer wherein a vinyl group is directly linked to
the oxygen atom of an ester group, and the ester group comprises a radical
chosen from saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals of 1
to 19 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 19 carbon atoms, and more
preferably from 16 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbon atom of the
carbonyl moiety of the ester group, and
(ii) at least one other monomer selected from a vinyl ester different from the (i)
vinylester monomer, an a-olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether, and an allylic or
methallylic ester.
30 3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) first liposoluble
film-forming polymer is vinyl acetate/allyl stearate.
35
40
45
50
4.
5.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a) first
liposoluble film-forming polymer is present in an amount of from 1.0% to 2.2% by
weight, preferably 1.2% to 2.0% by weight, and more preferably 1.4% to 1.8% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the fatty acid ofthe
polyester of polyvinyl alcohol and fatty acid ofthe (b) second liposoluble
film-forming polymer is selected from linear and saturated C6 to C3o, preferably Cs to
C24, and more preferably C10 to C1s fatty acids.
6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) second
liposoluble film-forming polymer is polyvinyllaurate.
7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (b) se.cond
liposoluble film-forming polymer is present in an amount of from 0.5% to 1.5% by
weight, preferably 0.7% to 1.4% by weight, and more preferably 0.9% to 1.3% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
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8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) oil is
selected from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.
9.
10.
11.
12.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) oil is present
in an amount of from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight,
and more preferably 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (d) wax is
selected from non-polar waxes, preferably non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, and more
preferably non-polar natural hydrocarbon waxes such as bees wax, carnauba wax,
rice bran wax and mixtures thereof
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 1 0, wherein the (d) wax is
present in an amount of from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by
weight, and more preferably 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition
further comprises (e) at least one third liposoluble film-forming polymer selected
from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.
13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition is
anhydrous.
14. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, which is a cosmetic
composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, and more
preferably a cosmetic composition for eyelashes, in particular a mascara.
15. A cosmetic process for making-up keratin substance, preferably keratin fibers, and
more preferably eyelashes, comprising the steps of:
applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 onto the keratin
substance.