FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to compositions for relaxing and colouring of hairs,
more particularly to relaxer based compositions for relaxing and colouring curly
hairs in a single step and a process of preparing the same.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Hair relaxing or straightening has become increasingly popular in view of the
hairstyles which require relatively or perfectly straight hair. Hair is an exceedingly
strong fiber. This strength is conferred primarily by disulfide bonds within the
cortex of the hair fiber and by a protective cuticle layer that encapsulates the
entire hair fiber. The natural degree of curliness of one's hair is largely determined
by the orientation of these disulfide bonds. In order to change the physical
configuration of hair, these disulfide bonds must be broken. When hair is
exceedingly curly in its natural state, fairly aggressive conditions must normally
be used to substantially lessen or eliminate the amount of curl. Simply put, the
curlier the hair, the more curl that needs to be removed to make the hair straight
and, in turn, the more disulfide bonds need to be broken to make the hair straight.
In order to straighten exceedingly curly hair, the alkaline compositions i.e. relaxer
composition is used. The pH of relaxer compositions is generally within the range
of pH 12 to pH 14. In most circumstances, compositions for the straightening of
exceedingly curly hair are termed “lye” type and “no-lye” type compositions. Lye
relaxers include formulations that contain the alkali earth metal hydroxides such
as sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. These lye
relaxers are usually supplied in cream form and are applied directly to the hair.
Lye relaxers were developed in the early part of the 20th century. Because of the
inherent dangers to hair and skin due to sodium hydroxide and other alkali metal
hydroxides, lye relaxers are usually relegated to the professional sector of the hair
care market.
(399/29)
3
The second type of alkali relaxers are known as “no-lye relaxers” which were
developed in the 1970s and make up the bulk of the non-professional or home use
cream that contains an alkali earth metal hydroxide, such as calcium hydroxide,
which is mixed with a liquid “activator” that contains a strong nitrogenous base,
such as guanidine carbonate. The liquid activator and the precursor cream are
mixed just prior to use. There is a chemical reaction between these components,
such as between the calcium hydroxide in the precursor cream and guanidine
carbonate in the liquid. This reaction produces hair relaxing agent in activated
form, in this case, guanidine hydroxide, which becomes the active alkali in
treating the hair.
Thus, a difference between a “lye relaxer” and a “no-lye relaxer” is that a lye
relaxer does not require a separate activator to produce the active relaxing agent.
Another difference is in the chemical reaction products that result when the lye
relaxer or the no-lye relaxer are subsequently neutralized.
The relaxing process is usually combined with mechanical straightening of the
hair, such as by combing, where straightening occurs through changing of the
relative positions of opposite polypeptide chains.
As would be understood by one of ordinary skill in the art, under strongly alkaline
conditions, such as those conferred by the application of typical relaxer
compositions to hair, the disulfide bonds of cystine in hair are converted to stable,
irreversible cross links of primarily lanthionine with some lysinoalanine.
A sizable proportion of the consumers have curly hairs, managing of which is a
herculean task. Race-related differences in hair structure help to explain why
African Americans, particularly women, generally require higher levels of
attention to their hair. As a result, it has been estimated that approximately 70-80
percent of African American women chemically relax or straighten their hair.
They colour their hair by the way of relaxer treatment followed by colouring
treatment. The entire hair relaxing treatment takes around 30 minutes. Hair
colouring also takes additional 30 minutes to complete the reaction mechanism.
(399/29)
4
This relaxer treatment is mostly in an alkaline medium and causes damage to hair
shaft and scalp, which is sometimes beyond repair. Hair colouring is also a
chemical treatment in which the hairs are treated with oxidative dyes in the
presence of an alkaline medium. This alkaline medium also damages the hair and
scalp too.
In both the relaxing and colouring treatments, the hairs are treated with alkaline
medium which is followed by neutralization to restore hair to their neutral state.
Currently, consumers perform relaxing and colouring in two steps, followed one
after another. In each step, the hairs experience shock twice; firstly, due to
opening of hair cuticles in alkaline medium followed by neutralization, during
relaxing, and secondly, again opening of cuticles in colouring treatment, followed
by neutralization. Neutralizing shampoos that are typically used after the relaxer
and colouring treatment, further strip away the fatty acids and other lipids from
the hair and scalp. These intense chemical treatments for more than an hour cause
serious damage to hairs and scalp, which may lead to baldness.
The use of chemical straightening products puts African American women, in
particular, at high risk of various “traumatic” allopecias, or hair loss, and other
adverse hair and scalp reactions. Hair and scalp damage from relaxers are
aggravated if straightening is performed frequently, or in conjunction with
thermal straightening and/or thermal curling processes. Therefore there is a need
to develop hair treatment compositions that relax and colour hairs in a single step,
thereby avoiding injury to the scalp and hair loss.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is directed to novel compositions for treatment of curly
hair. These compositions are designed to offer relaxing and colouring in a single
step such that the hairs are subjected to harsh alkaline medium only once. The
disclosure further relates to methods for relaxing and colouring human hair with
minimal damage to the hair and improved performance compared to
existing products.
(399/29)
5
According to an embodiment of the invention, there is provided a composition for
relaxing and colouring curly hairs comprising at least one relaxer, at least one
colouring dye, at least one emulsifier, at least one emollient and water.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the relaxer present in the
composition is a lye relaxer or a no lye relaxer.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the lye relaxer is selected
from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides present in an amount in the
range from 1-3%, and the no lye relaxer is selected from the group consisting of
alkaline earth metal hydroxides present in an amount in the range from 1-15%.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the colouring dye present in
the composition is selected from the group consisting of cationic azo dyes, azo
dyes, basic dyes, direct dyes and combinations thereof, and present in an amount
in the range from 0.1-15%, wherein the cationic azo dye is present in a amount in
the range from 0-10%, the azo dye is present in a amount in the range from 0-
10%, basic dye is present in a amount in the range from 0-10%, the direct dye is
present in a amount in the range from 0-15%, the emulsifier is present in a amount
in the range from 3.0-10.0%, the emollient is present in an amount in the range
from 0.1-5.0%, and water is present in an amount in the range from 30-60%.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition for relaxing
and colouring curly hairs, further comprises thickeners, antioxidants, hair
conditioners, colour lock derivative, moisturizer and petrolatum base.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the thickner present in the
composition is selected from the group consisting of Carbopol, Xanthangum,
hydroxyl ethyl cellulose and combinations thereof. and present in an amount in
the range from 0.1 to 2.0%, the antioxidant is present in an amount in the range
from 0.1-2.0%, the hair conditioner is present in an amount in the range from 0.1-
5.0%, the colour lock derivative is present in an amount in the range from 0.1-
(399/29)
6
5.0%, the moisturizer is present in an amount in the range from 2-10%, and the
petrolatum base is present in a concentration of 30%.
According to another embodiment of the invention, an activator composition
comprises at least one neutralizing agent and at least one diluent, the neutralizing
agent is present in an amount in the range from 0.1-30%, and the diluent is water.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
Figure 1A illustrates untreated curly hairs.
Figure 1B illustrates curly hairs treated with a relaxer composition
Figure 1C illustrates curly hair treated with a colouring composition
Figure 1D illustrates curly hairs treated with a composition for relaxing and
colouring curly hair
Figure 1E illustrates the effect of treating normal white hair with a composition
for relaxing and colouring curly hairs
Figure 1F illustrates the effect of treating normal grey hairs with a composition
for relaxing and colouring curly hairs
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Discussed below are some representative embodiments of the present invention.
The invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specific details pertaining
to the embodiments and representative methods. The illustrative examples are
described in this section in connection with the embodiments and methods
provided. The invention according to its various aspects is particularly pointed out
and distinctly claimed in the appended claims read in view of this specification
and appropriate equivalents.
(399/29)
7
It is to be noted that, as used in the specification and the appended claims, the
singular forms "a", "an" and "the" include plural referents unless the context
clearly dictates otherwise. Thus, for example, reference to a composition
containing “a compound” includes a mixture of two or more compounds. It should
also be noted that the term “or” is generally employed in its sense including
“and/or” unless the content clearly dictates otherwise.
The expression of various quantities in terms of “%” or “% w/w” means the
percentage by weight, relative to the weight of the total solution or composition
unless otherwise specified.
All cited references are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.
Citation of any reference is not an admission regarding any determination as to its
availability as prior art to the claimed invention.
Currently, people with curly hair relax and colour their hair in two steps, followed
one after another. Both these steps comprise treating hair with an alkaline
composition. Exposing the hair repeatedly to alkaline compositions may
irreparably damage the hair cuticle leading to baldness. Accordingly, the present
inventors have disclosed a composition for relaxing and colouring curly hair in a
single step, said composition comprising (a) a relaxer; (b) a colouring dye; (c) an
emulsifier; (d) an emollient; and (e) water.
As used herein, the terms “relaxing” and “straightening” covers the straightening
or uncurling, and includes such effects on, curly hair. According to the invention,
the term “to relax” means to straighten or to uncurl.
According to an embodiment of the invention, the relaxer is a lye relaxer or a nolye
relaxer. A “Relaxer” refers to hydroxides of alkali and alkaline earth metals. A
“lye relaxer” refers to alkali metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide, lithium
hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, whereas a “no-lye relaxer” refers to an
alkaline earth metal hydroxide such as calcium hydroxide.
(399/29)
8
Non-limiting examples of the lye relaxers include sodium hydroxide, potassium
hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and so forth, each of which can be used individually
or in combination, in an amount in the range from 1-3%. Calcium hydroxide is
used as a no-lye relaxer in an amount in the range from 1-15%.
The colouring dye is selected from the group consisting of a cationic azo dye, an
azo dye, a basic dye and a direct dye, each of which can be used individually or in
combination, in an amount in the range from 0-15%.
An “azo dye” contains one or more azo groups, together with hydroxyl groups,
amine and substituted amine groups as auxochromes, whereas a cationic azo dye
refers to an azo dye in which the ring nitrogen atom is quaternized or the
quaternary is present on the dye coupler. Azo dyes and pigments are by far the
most important commercial colourants, providing virtually a full range of bright,
intense hues and reasonable to very good technical performance. Non-limiting
examples of the cationic azo dye include Crystal violet, Basic red 2, Basic blue 9,
Basic green 4 and so forth, each of which can be used individually or in
combination, in an amount in the range from 0-10%. Non-limiting examples of
the azo dye that can be used in the present invention include Acid orange 5, Acid
orange 7, Acid red 88, aniline yellow, Cango red, methyl red, methyl orange,
tartarazine, Sudan red, Ponceau 2R, Eriochrome black T, Hydroxy napthol blue
and so forth, each of which can be used individually or in combination, in a
amount in the range from 0-10%.
A “basic dye” is a cationic stain which reacts with material that is negatively
charged. Non-limiting examples of basic dyes that can be used in the present
invention include Basic yellow 57, Basic yellow 87, Basic Red 76, Basic Red 51,
Basic blue 99, Ebony, Basic brown 17, Basic brown 16 and so forth, each of
which can be used individually or in combination, in a amount in the range from
0-10%.
A “Direct dye” is particularly useful for dyeing fibres made from cellulose. They
are synthesized with sulfonic acid groups to give them solubility in water,
(399/29)
9
dissociating to give sodium cations and the anionic dye species. They are also
designed so that they are as linear and planar in structure as possible. This allows
the dye to be attached to the cellulosic chains in the fibre, often via intermolecular
(including hydrogen) bonding. Non-limiting examples of direct dyes used in the
present invention include 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitro phenol, HC blue-15; HC blue
12; HC Blue 2; N,N, Bis (2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 4-nitro-
O-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-nitro phenol, HC Red3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-
3-nitrophenol, 3-nitro-p-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 4-amino-3-nitro phenol,
hydroethyl-2-nitro-p-toluidin, HC yellow 2 and so forth, each of which can be
used either individually or in combination, in an amount in the range from 0-15%.
An inert ingredient commonly found in hair colouring compositions is an
emulsifier. “Emulsifier” is a detergent like substance that makes it possible for the
components of the colouring relaxer composition to mix with water. One class of
emulsifiers are known as "surface active agents", or surfactants. Non-limiting
examples of emulsifiers that can be used in the present invention include Glyceryl
stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, ceto steryl alcohol, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol,
ceterth-20; ceterth-25 and so forth, each of which can be used individually or in
combination, in an amount in the range from 3.0-10.0%.
An “emollient” is a moisturizer which helps keep the skin moist by reducing
water loss from the epidermis - the outer layer of skin. Emollients keep the skin
moist and supple by providing a protective film. Non-limiting examples of the
emollient that can be used in the present invention include mineral oil, PEG-7,
C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, light liquid paraffin, waxes, lanolin, light liquid paraffin,
capric caprilic tri glyceride and so forth, each of which can be used individually or
in combination, in an amount in the range from 0.1-5.0%. The composition for
colouring and relaxing curly hairs contains water in an amount in the range from
30-60%.
(399/29)
10
The composition for colouring and relaxing curly hairs, further comprises a
thickener, an antioxidant, a hair conditioner, a colour lock derivative, a
moisturizer and petrolatum base.
A “thickener” is a substance which can increase the viscosity of a liquid without
substantially changing its other properties. Hence, a thickener is added to adjust
the viscosity of a composition to improve its storage and handling properties.
Non-limiting examples of the thickener that can be used in the present invention
include Carbopol, Xanthangum, hydroxyl ethyl cellulose and so forth, each of
which can be used individually or in combination, in an amount in the range from
0.1 – 2.0%.
An “antioxidant” is a molecule that can easily undergo oxidation by donating an
electron. Antioxidants are used to prevent the oxidation of dyes, thereby
preventing the fading of hair colour with time. Non-limiting examples of
antioxidants that can be used in the present invention include Butyl hydroxyl
toluene, ascorbic acid, sodium sulphite and so forth, each of which can be used
individually or in combination, in an amount in the range from 0.1-2.0%.
A “hair conditioner” coats the hair with a thin film that makes the hair shiny and
slippery. Hence, in order to have shiny and flowing hair, it is recommended to add
a hair conditioner to the composition. Non-limiting examples of the hair
conditioners that can be used in the present invention include cationic polymer,
poly quartenium 7, hydroxy ethyl cellulose, hydroxy methyl cellulose and so
forth, each of which can be used individually or in combination, in an amount in
the range from 0.1-5%.
A “colour lock derivative” is a substance which coats the hair with a thin film and
prevents the dye form dissolving in water, thereby preventing the fading of
coloured hair. Non-limiting examples of the colour lock derivatives that can be
used in the present invention include silicone derivative, guar derivative, cationic
polymer, dimethicone and so forth, each of which can be used either individually
or in combination, in an amount in the range from 0.1-5.0%.
(399/29)
11
A “moisturizer” increases the hydration of the external layer of the
skin (epidermis), by reducing evaporation. Hence, in order to keep the skin
hydrated it is recommended to add a moisturizer to the composition. Non-limiting
examples of the moisturizers that can be used in the present invention include
Glycerin, sorbitol and so forth, each of which can be used individually or in
combination, in an amount in the range from 2-10%.
“Petrolatum” is a mineral oil jelly (i.e. petroleum jelly), which is used as a barrier
to lock moisture in the skin, in a variety of moisturizers and also in hair care
products to make hair shine. The composition for colouring and relaxing curly
hairs, contains the petrolatum base in a concentration of 30%.
An “activator composition”, comprising a neutralizing agent and a diluent, is
required to activate the no-lye relaxer composition. The “neutralizing agent” is a
strong nitrogenous base such as guanidine carbonate. The composition for
colouring and relaxing curly hairs comprising a no-lye relaxer such as calcium
hydroxide is mixed with an activator composition prior to application onto wet
hairs. The reaction between guanidine carbonate, present in the activator
composition, and calcium hydroxide produces guanidine hydroxide, which is the
active alkali causing hair relaxation. The activator composition comprises
guanidine carbonate and a diluent, wherein guanidine carbonate is present in an
amount in the range from 0.1-30%, and wherein the diluent is water. The activator
composition is prepared by dissolving the required quantity of neutralizing agent
in sufficient water.
A method for relaxing and colouring curly hairs, comprises the steps of (a)
wetting of the curly hairs; (b) applying a composition for relaxing and colouring
curly hairs to the wet curly hair; and (c) applying a neutralizing shampoo. As used
herein, the term “neutralizing shampoo” refers to a shampoo that restores the pH
of the hair closer to neutral. The activator composition is mixed with the
composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs, prior to application to wet
(399/29)
12
hairs, wherein the composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs comprises a
no-lye relaxer, such as calcium hydroxide.
The process for preparing a composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs,
comprises the steps of: (a) admixing petrolatum, a thickener, an emulsifier and an
antioxidant in a mixing vessel to form a first mixture and heating the first mixture
up to 70 °C – 80 °C; (b) dissolving a relaxer in water to form a solution and
heating the solution up 70 °C – 80 °C; (c) admixing the first mixture and the
solution to form an emulsion and cooling the emulsion up to 50 °C – 60 °C; (d)
admixing a dye and the emulsion to form a second mixture and cooling the second
mixture up to 25°C - 35 °C; and (e) admixing a perfume, a hair conditioner and
the second mixture at 25°C - 35 °C to form the composition for relaxing and
colouring curly hairs. The relaxer may be a lye or no-lye relaxer.
The present invention is more particularly described in the following non-limiting
examples that are intended as illustrations only, since numerous modifications and
variations within the scope of the present invention will be apparent to a skilled
artisan. Unless otherwise noted, all parts, percentages, and ratios reported in the
following examples are on a weight basis, and all reagents used in the examples
were obtained or made available from the chemical suppliers.
Example 1
Process for preparing a composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs:
A process for preparing a composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs
comprising a no-lye relaxer is described herein below. Table 1 shows the
constituents and their amounts to be used in the said composition. The unit of
each value is percent by weight.
Constituents 1-5 were mixed in a mixing vessel to form an oil phase, which was
heated up to a temperature of 70 °C - 80 °C, preferably 75 °C. Constituents 6-9
were mixed in a mixing vessel to form a water phase, which was heated up to a
(399/29)
13
temperature of 70 °C – 80 °C, preferably 75 °C. Thereafter, the water phase was
added to the oil phase, with vigorous stirring for 30 minutes to form an emulsion,
which was cooled to 50 °C -60 °C, preferably 50 °C. After that, constituents 10-13
were dissolved in water to form a dye solution, which was added to the emulsion
at 50 °C – 60 °C, preferably 50 °C, and the resulting mixture was cooled to 25 °C
– 35 °C, preferably 30 °C. Finally poly quartenium 7, dimethicone and perfume
were added to form a composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs
containing a no-lye relaxer.
Table 1. Constituents of a composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs.
Sr. No Constituents
Amount present in
the composition (%
w/w)
1 Petrolatum 30.00
2 Ceterth 20 3.00
3 Stearic Acid 2.00
4 C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 3.00
5 Butyl hydroxylated toluene 0.50
6
Water for dissolving Calcium
Hydroxide
30.00
7 Carbopol/thickener 2.00
8 Sorbital 5.0
9 Calcium Hydroxide 6.00
10 Madder red (Basic Red 76) 1.00
11 Straw yellow (Basic yellow57) 1.00
(399/29)
14
12 Steel Blue (Basic blue 99) 0.01
13 Mahogny (Basic brown 16) 0.50
14 Water for dissolving dyes 16.00
15 Poly quartenium -7 0.50
16 Dimethicone 2.50
17 Perfume 0.05
Example 2
Process for preparing a composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs:
A process for preparing a composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs
comprising a lye relaxer is described herein below. Table 2 shows the
constituents and their amounts to be used in the said composition. The unit of
each value is percent by weight.
Constituents 1-5 were mixed in a mixing vessel to form an oil phase, which was
heated up to a temperature of 70 °C – 80 °C, preferably 75 °C. Constituents 6-9
were mixed in a mixing vessel to form a water phase, which was heated up to a
temperature of 70 °C – 80 °C, preferably 75 °C. Thereafter, the water phase
solution was added to the oil phase, with vigorous stirring for 30 minutes to form
an emulsion, which was cooled to 50 °C – 60 °C, preferably 50 °C. After that,
constituents 10-13 were dissolved in water to form a dye solution, which was
added to the emulsion at 50 °C – 60 °C, preferably 50 °C, and the resulting
mixture was cooled to 25 °C - 35 °C, preferably 30 °C. Finally poly quartenium 7,
dimethicone and perfume were added to form a composition for relaxing and
colouring curly hairs containing a lye relaxer.
(399/29)
15
Table 2. Constituents of a composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs.
Sr. No Constituents
Amount present in
the composition (%
w/w)
1 Petrolatum 30.00
2 Ceterth 20 3.00
3 Stearic Acid 2.00
4 Butyl hydroxylated toluene 0.50
5 C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 3.00
6
Water for dissolving sodium
hydroxide
30.00
7 Carbopol /thickener 2.00
8 Sorbital 5.00
9 Sodium Hydroxide 2.00
10 Madder red (Basic Red 76) 1.00
11 Straw yellow (Basic yellow57) 1.00
12 Steel Blue (Basic blue 99) 0.01
13 Mahogny (Basic brown 16) 0.50
14 Water for dissolving dyes 20.99
15 Poly quartenium -7 0.50
16 Dimethicone 2.50
(399/29)
16
17 Perfume 0.05
Example 3
Process for preparing an activator composition:
Dissolve Guanidine carbonate (20%) in water (80%) to form an activator
composition.
Example 4-8
Table 3 provides examples of the composition for relaxing and colouring curly
hairs containing a lye relaxer, wherein the amount of each component is in percent
weight of the composition.
Table 3. Constituents of compositions for relaxing and colouring curly hairs
containing a lye relaxer.
Examples Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8
Petrolatum 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00
Thickener
(carbopol)
2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Emulsifier
(Ceterth-20,
ceto steryl
alcohol)
3.00 5.00 3.00 3.00 5.00
Antioxidant
(Butyl hydroxyl
toluene)
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
(399/29)
17
Emollient
(C12-C15 alkyl
benzoate)
3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
Moisturiser
(Sorbital)
5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
Hair
Conditioner
(Poly
quartenium-7)
2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Colour lock
derivative
(Dimethicone)
2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50
Sodium
Hydroxide
2.00 2.00 2.00 1.00 3.00
Madder red
(Basic Red 76)
0.25 1.00 1.50 1.00 1.00
Straw Yellow
(Basic Yellow
57)
0.25 1.00 0.75 1.00 1.00
Steel Blue
(Basic blue 99)
0.25 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
Mahogany
(Basic brown
16)
0.30 1.50 2.00 1.50 1.50
(399/29)
18
Water Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.
Q.S. = Quantity Sufficient
Example 9-14
Table 4 provides examples of the composition for relaxing and colouring curly
hairs containing a no-lye relaxer, wherein the amount of each component is in
percent weight of the composition.
Table 4. Constituents of compositions for relaxing and colouring curly hairs
containing a no-lye relaxer.
Examples
Example
9
Example
10
Example
11
Example
12
Example
13
Example
14
Petrolatum 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00
Thickener
(carbopol) 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Emulsifier
(Ceterth-20,
ceto steryl
alcohol)
10.00 3.00 5.00 10.00 3.00 3.00
Antioxidant
(Butyl hydroxyl
toluene)
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
Emollient
(C12-C15 alkyl
3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
(399/29)
19
benzoate)
Moisturiser
(Sorbital)
5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
Hair
Conditioner
(Poly
quartenium-7)
2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Colour lock
derivative
(Dimethicone)
2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50
Calcium
Hydroxide
3.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
Madder red
(Basic Red 76)
1.00 1.00 1.00 0.50 5.00 1.00
Straw Yellow
(Basic Yellow
57)
1.00 1.00 1.00 0.25 5.00 1.00
Steel Blue
(Basic blue 99)
0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.10 0.01
Mahogany
(Basic brown
16)
0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 2.50 0.50
Water Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.
Q.S.=Quantity Sufficient
(399/29)
20
Example 15-20
Table 5 provides examples of the composition for relaxing and colouring curly
hairs containing a no-lye relaxer, wherein the amount of each component is in
percent weight of the composition.
Table 5. Constituents of compositions for relaxing and colouring curly hairs
containing a no-lye relaxer.
Examples
Example
15
Example
16
Example
17
Example
18
Example
19
Example
20
Petrolatum 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00 30.00
Thickener
(carbopol) 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Emulsifier
(Ceterth-20,
ceto steryl
alcohol)
3.00 5.00 3.00 3.00 10.00 3.00
Antioxidant
(Butyl hydroxyl
toluene)
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
Emollient
(C12-C15 alkyl
benzoate)
3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
(399/29)
21
Moisturiser
(Sorbital)
5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
Hair
Conditioner
(Poly
quartenium-7)
2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
Colour lock
derivative
(Dimethicone)
2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50
Calcium
Hydroxide
12.00 15.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
Cationic azo
dye
(Basic RED 2)
2.0 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.50
Cationic azo
dye
(Crystal violet)
0.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Azo dye
(Acid orange-5)
0.00 3.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.00
Azo dye
(Sudan red)
0.00 0.25 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Direct dye 0.00 0.00 3.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
(399/29)
22
(4-amino-3-
nitro phenol)
Direct dye
(2-amino-6-
chloro-4 nitro
phenol)
0.00 0.00 0.00 2.00 0.00 1.00
Direct dye
(HC Red 3)
0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 4.00 0.20
Water Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.
Q.S.=Quantity Sufficient
Method of using the composition for relaxing and colouring of curly hairs
containing a lye relaxer.
The curly hairs were moistened with water. Thereafter, the composition for
relaxing and colouring curly hairs, containing a lye relaxer, was applied to wet
hair and allowed to stand for 30 minutes. Finally, the hairs were washed with a
neutralizing shampoo to restore the pH of hair.
Method of using the composition for relaxing and colouring of curly hairs
containing a no-lye relaxer.
The curly hairs were moistened with water. Prior to application on wet hair, the
composition for relaxing and colouring of curly hairs was mixed with the activator
composition. Thereafter, the mixture of the activator composition and the
composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs, containing a no lye relaxer,
was applied to wet hair and allowed to stand for 30 minutes. Finally, the hairs
were washed with a neutralizing shampoo to restore the pH of hair.
Evaluation of the composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs
(399/29)
23
Evaluation of the composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs was carried
out on samples of curly hairs. Figure 1A illustrates untreated curly hairs. Figure
1B illustrates curly hairs that have been treated with a relaxer composition
(Example 2, without constituents 10 to 13, wherein the cumulative weight percent
of the remaining constituents of the resulting composition is made 100% by
adding sufficient water) causing their relaxation. Figure 1C depicts curly hairs
that have been treated with a colouring composition (Example 2, without
constituent 9, wherein the cumulative weight percent of the remaining
constituents of the resulting composition is made 100% by adding sufficient
water). Figure 1D shows curly hairs that have been treated with the relaxing and
colouring composition of the present invention (Example 2). Hence, the
composition of the present invention relaxes and colours the curly hairs in a single
step, thereby preventing damage to the hair cuticle and baldness, due to prolonged
exposure of the hairs to alkaline solutions. Figure 1E and Figure 1F illustrate the
ability of the composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs, of the present
invention, (Example 2) to colour normal white hair and normal grey hair
respectively.
Consumer analysis
The consumers rated their experience after using the Relaxer composition
(Example 2)*, the Colouring composition (Example 2)**, relaxing with the
Relaxer composition (Example 2)* followed by colouring with the Colouring
composition (Example 2)** and the composition of the present invention
(Example 2) with respect to (a) various attributes of the hair such as softness,
damage, shine; (b) overall likability of the product; and (c) savings in time of
application. The consumer opinion is presented in Table 6. From the consumer
opinions it is evident that the composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs,
of the present invention, not only saves time but also provides excellent damage
control, softness and shine to curly hair.
(399/29)
24
Table 6: Consumer opinion on various types of hair care products.
Treatments
Consumer Opinion
Time
Saving
Softness Damage Shine
Likability
on a scale
of 1-5
Relaxer alone
(Example 2)*
3 3 3 2 3
Colouring
alone
(Example 2)**
3 3 3 3 3
Relaxing with
(Example 2)*
followed by
colouring with
(Example 2)**
2 4 1 1 3
Composition of
the present
invention
(Example 2)
5 4 4 4 4
5: Very good; 4: Good; 3: Average; 2: Poor; 1: Very poor
(Example 2)* = Example 2, without constituents 10 to 13, wherein the
cumulative weight percent of the remaining constituents of the resulting
composition is made 100% by adding sufficient water
(399/29)
25
(Example 2)** = Example 2, without constituent 9, wherein the cumulative
weight percent of the remaining constituents of the resulting composition is made
100% by adding sufficient water
While particular embodiments of the composition for relaxing and colouring curly
hairs have been illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in
the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without
departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereof intended to cover
in the appended claims such changes and modifications that are within the scope
of the invention.

We Claim:
1. A composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs, comprising; (a) a
relaxer; (b) a colouring dye; (c) an emulsifier; (d) an emollient; and (e) water.
2. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 1,
wherein the relaxer is lye relaxer or no-lye relaxer.
3. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 2,
wherein the lye relaxer is selected from the group consisting of an alkali metal
hydroxide, and the no-lye relaxer is selected from the group consisting of an
alkaline earth metal hydroxide.
4. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 3,
wherein the lye relaxer is present in an amount in the range from 1-3%.
5. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 3,
wherein the no-lye relaxer is present in an amount in the range from 1-15%.
6. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claims 1
to 5, wherein the alkali metal hydroxide is selected from the group consisting
of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide and
combinations thereof, and the no-lye relaxer is calcium hydroxide.
7. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 1,
wherein the colouring dye is selected from the group consisting of a cationic
azo dye, an azo dye, a basic dye, a direct dye and combinations thereof, and
present in an amount in the range from 0-15%.
8. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 7,
wherein the cationic azo dye is selected from the group consisting of Crystal
violet, Basic red 2, Basic blue 9, Basic green 4 and combinations thereof and
present in an amount in the range from 0-10%.
9. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 7,
wherein the azo dye is selected from the group consisting of Acid orange 5,
(399/29)
27
Acid orange 7, Acid red 88, aniline yellow, Cango red, methyl red, methyl
orange, tartarazine, Sudan red, Ponceau 2R, Eriochrome black T, Hydroxy
napthol blue and combinations thereof and present in an amount in the range
from 0-10%.
10. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 7,
wherein the basic dye is selected from the group consisting of Basic yellow
57, Basic yellow 87, Basic Red 76, Basic Red 51, Basic blue 99, Ebony, Basic
brown 17, Basic brown 16 and combinations thereof and present in an amount
in the range from 0-10%.
11. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 7,
wherein the direct dye is selected from the group consisting of 2-amino-6-
chloro-4-nitro phenol, HC blue-15; HC blue 12; HC Blue 2; N,N, Bis (2-
hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine, 4-nitro-O-phenylenediamine, 4-
amino-3-nitro phenol, HC Red3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, 3-
nitro-p-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 4-amino-3-nitro phenol, hydroethyl-2-
nitro-p-toluidin, HC yellow 2 and combinations thereof and present in an
amount in the range from 0-15%.
12. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 1,
wherein the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of Glyceryl
stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, ceto steryl alcohol, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol,
ceterth-20; ceterth-25 and combinations thereof and present in an amount in
the range from 3.0 – 10.0%.
13. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 1,
wherein the emollient is selected from the group consisting of mineral oil,
PEG-7, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, light liquid paraffin, waxes, lanolin, light
liquid paraffin, capric caprilic tri glyceride and combinations thereof and
present in an amount in the range from 0.1-5.0%.
(399/29)
28
14. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 1,
wherein water is present in an amount in the range from 30-60%.
15. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claims 1
to 15, the composition further comprising thickener, antioxidants, hair
conditioner, colour lock derivative, moisturizer and petrolatum base.
16. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 15,
wherein the thickener is selected from the group consisting of Carbopol,
Xanthangum, hydroxyl ethyl cellulose and combinations thereof and present
in an amount in the range from 0.1 -2.0 %.
17. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 15,
wherein the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of Butyl
hydroxyl toluene, ascorbic acid, sodium sulphite and combinations thereof,
and present in an amount in the range from 0.1-2.0%.
18. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 15,
wherein the hair conditioner is selected from the group consisting of cationic
polymer, poly quartenium 7, hydroxyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxy methyl
cellulose and combinations thereof, and present in an amount in the range
from 0.1-5%.
19. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 15,
wherein the colour lock derivative is selected from the group consisting of
silicone derivative, guar derivative, cationic polymer, dimethicone and
combinations thereof, and present in an amount in the range from 0.1-5.0%.
20. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 15,
wherein the moisturizer is selected from the group consisting of Glycerin,
sorbital and combinations thereof and present in an amount in the range from
2-10%.
(399/29)
29
21. The composition for relaxing and colouring curly hairs as claimed in claim 15,
wherein the petrolatum base is present in a concentration of 30%.
22. An activator composition comprising a neutralizing agent and a diluent.
23. The activator composition as claimed in claim 22, wherein the neutralizing
agent is Guanidine carbonate, and present in an amount in the range from 0.1-
30%.
24. The activator composition as claimed in claims 22 and 23, wherein the diluent
is water.
25. A process for preparing a composition, as claimed in claims 1 to 21 for
relaxing and colouring curly hairs, comprising the steps of: (a) admixing
petrolatum, an emollient, an emulsifier and an antioxidant in a mixing vessel
to form a first mixture and heating the first mixture up to 70 °C – 80 °C; (b)
dissolving a relaxer, moisturizer and thickener in water to form a solution and
heating the solution up to 70 °C - 80 °C; (c) admixing the first mixture and the
solution to form an emulsion and cooling the emulsion up to 50 °C - 60 °C;
(d) admixing a colouring dye and the emulsion to form a second mixture and
cooling the second mixture up to 25 °C - 35 °C; and (e) admixing a perfume, a
hair conditioner, a colour lock derivative and the second mixture at 25 °C - 35