Technical Field
The present invention relates to conditioning compositions for use in fabric care and
in hair care formulations. More particularly, the invention relates to conditioning
compositions that provide hair (or fabric) with an enhanced volume, bounce and
fullness with improved volume manageability.
Background And Prior Art
Surfactants have been long used for cleaning of hair and fabrics. They provide hair
cleaning by removing excess soil and sebum from hair and scalp. However, they
sometimes remove natural oils and positive charges from the hair and leave the hair
and scalp dry. Such condition produces a static charge that sometimes causes
flyaways. Consequently, hair may appear rough, lusterless, frizzy and difficult to
manage.
Conditioners may alleviate the aforementioned problems by their chemical nature and
interaction. Positively charged surfactants in hair conditioners are attracted to the
negative charges in the hair and do not completely rinse out with water. When the
hair dries, it is coated with a thin film that adds weight, makes the hair easier to comb,
and prevents deposition of static electricity and 'frizzing' of the hair. Conditioners
soften the hair, retain its moisture and improve its texture and manageability. US
4,719,104 describes a conditioning preparation where cationic film forming polymers
have been used in combination with distearyldimethylammonium salt.
For many years, it remained necessary to perform the hair cleaning and hair
conditioning in two distinct and separate steps. However, due to advances in
chemistry it is now possible to condition and cleanse hair (and fabric) simultaneously.
Such formulations are frequently called "two-in-one" conditioning shampoos. US
6,489,286 describes a 'two in one' shampoo formulation where conditioners are
added to a shampoo composition to provide the dual cleansing and conditioning
benefits in the same product. .US 5,573,756 teaches a shampoo conditioner
composition that includes a concentrated surfactant, a cationic conditioner, and a
carrier.

A variety of conditioning agents have been used in making conditioners. These
include silicones, quaternary ammonium salts, cationic polymers, cationic monomeric
surfactants and oily materials such as hydrocarbons, higher alcohols, fatty acid esters,
glycerides and fatty acids.
Generally, cationic polymers have been used widely as conditioning agents. Among
them, polyquaterniums (or cationic cellulose derivatives) are found to be very
effective in improving wet and dry combing characteristics, detangling, and imparting
sheen and adding a silky feel to the hair, among other benefits. Conditioning
shampoos also add fullness to hair and give it volume. US 5,759,527 describes a
conditioning preparation where polyquaternium 6 and polyquaternium 7 have been
used for conditioning. Polyquaternium 10, a complex cationic polymeric conditioning
agent derived from wood cellulose, has been widely documented in patented
literature. US 4,610,874 and US 4,725,433 disclose a composition for a hair
'conaitioning comprising polyquaternium 10. US 6,294,159 discloses a volumizing
shampoo composition where polyquaternium 10 (frequently referred to as PQ-10) has
been extensively used.
Cationic polymers however, have a few processing limitations. Repeated use of
conditioning compositions containing cationic polymers, polyquaternium 10 in
particular, tends to cause deposition on the hair that may be difficult to rinse off,
leading to an undesirable slimy or coated feel. A much desired bounce and volume is
lost and hair are effectually turned flat. The basic purpose of conditioning having
been defeated, the use of a Polyquaternium 10 based conditioner, becomes
undesirable.
Monomeric quaternary ammonium salts form another category in hair conditioners
that have been used extensively to alter the texture and appearance of hair.
Illustrative examples of the aforementioned quaternary ammonium compounds
include di-higher alkyl quaternary ammonium salts, mixed higher alkyl trimethyl
ammonium chlorides containing mixtures of predominately C8-C18 alkyl radicals and
derivatives thereof. U.S. 4,160,823, US 4,436,722, US 4,269,824 and US 4,421,740 equate the mono-higher alkyl quaternary ammonium chloride with a di-higher alkyl
quaternary ammonium chloride as an effective conditioning agent in the disclosed
compositions.

US 4,911,919 discloses a hair conditioner-straightener composition comprising a
mixture of a di-higher alkyl quaternary ammonium compound, a C8-C18 amido C2-C3
alkyl di-C1-C2 alkyl amine, a C14-C18 alcohol, mineral oil, cyclomethicone, a hydroxy
alkyl cellulose polymer, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and propylene glycol emulsified in an
aqueous medium.
The basic use of a di(linear long-chain alkyl) quaternary ammonium salt does not, in
itself, appear to provide substantive benefits in softness, fullness, volume and
smoothness. Conditioning effects have been coventionally enhanced by the addition
of other components such as oils and fats, higher alcohol, glyceride or liquid paraffin.
Further, di(linear straight-chain alkyl) quaternary ammonium salts do not demonstrate
a substantive ability to stably emulsify or disperse oils and fats. So, it has been
attempted to incorporate a mono(linear long-chain alkyl) quaternary ammonium salt
or non-ionic surface active agent having high hydrophilicity for obtaining a stable
emulsion or dispersion system from an emulsion system such as cream rinse
composition or the like. However, these compounds, due to a high hydrophilicity,
significantly reduce the performances of hair rinse. Generally, it appears that
compositions available in the prior art have an inherent drawback that the effects of
hair rinse of quaternary ammonium salts, oils and fats, cannot be fully exhibited or
noticed.
Hair cleansing compositions containing long-chain alkyl quaternary ammonium salt
are further accompanied with the drawback of a restriction in formulation and its
efficacy. It is seen that the quality of foams or low-temperature stability is lowered
when a long-chain alkyl quaternary ammonium salt is added in an amount sufficient
to give a satisfactory hair smoothness.
High molecular weight PEG and specific phosphate quaternary ammonium salts of
the R-amidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride phosphate type are known in the art for
their stabilizing effect to cosmetic formulations. Apparently, they form chemical
complexes to provide a stabilizing, aesthetically pleasing effect for the emulsion.
However, the functionality and method of rendering are presently, not well
understood.
US 5, 863,943 teaches a stabilized oil-in-water cationic emulsion comprising at least
one alpha hydroxy acid (referred to hereinafter as AHA) that is stabilized using a high

molecular weight PEG complexed with a cationic surfactant. Specifically, PEG's of
an average molecular weight of approximately 100,000 to 4,000,000 upon
combination with a cationic surfactant of the R-amidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate variety, lends the emulsion a high degree of stability, even under adverse
conditions, and provides a suitable skin conditioning vehicle for the delivery of AHA,
oatmeal, and other active agents.
US 6,037,305 relates to a textile softening and/or personal care compositions that
comprise quaternary ammonium based softening agents which are high in diester and
low in triester content and provide a process for the preparation thereof. Quaternary
ammonium compounds having particularly good performance and stability profiles
are obtained by reaction of C12 -C22 fatty acids or the hydrogenation products thereof,
or a mixture of such acids, with an alkanolamine in the presence of an acid catalyst,
wherein the ratio of fatty acid to alkanolamine is from 1.40-2.0. The resultant
esteramine reaction products are subsequently quaternized to obtain quaternary
ammonium salts of the present invention. Additionally an alkyl amidopropyl amine
quat was added in addition to some triethanol amine (small molecule) quat to enhance
the formulatability and dispersion stability of the product. It is believed that about
formulability and dispersion stability factors impact approximately 8% of the product.
US 5,567,427 teaches emulsified, low pH cosmetic compositions having improved pH
stability and phase stability. The emulsified cosmetic compositions have a pH of
3.7 to 4.5, and contain 10% to 50% by weight of a dispersed
oil phase, 2% to 20% by weight of an acid, such as a hydroxycarboxylic
acid, and 0.5% to 2% of a quaternized phosphate ester, such as
linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate. The use of such phosphate
ester in the emulsified cosmetic compositions makes the composition phase stable
over an extended storage period and maintain an substantially constant pH by
exhibiting a pH drift of 0.15, and usually 0.1 pH units or less.
Amido propyl amine quaternium is well known in the art as a softening agent.
Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, on the other hand, has been
more specifically used as a stabilizer for emulsification of compositions, typically, for
skin formulations as lotions and creams. Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride
is a phospholipid and known to improve hydration level of skin and hair surface.

However there is no teaching as to the use of such phospholipids in formulation of
conditioning compositions for the maintenance of volume after treatment with such
conditioners.
All of the aforementioned categories of conditioning ingredients have been used in
commercial products for delivery of their special and specific benefits. However,
none of them either individually or in combination thereof has been able to provide a
satisfactory conditioning of hair and fabric fibers. Whereas the excessive build up
obtained by repeated use of cationic polymers renders compositions generally
unacceptable, the mild conditioning obtained from quaternary ammonium salts is
insufficient. There is hence a need for a formulation that provides conditioning
benefits, without chemical build-up every time it is applied to hair. Additionally, it is
only desirable that the formulation be stable without affecting volume boost, fullness,
bounce, manageability, smoothness and shine characters achieved by the formulation
on treated hair.
Objects of the Invention
An object of the invention is to provide a conditioning composition that gives
optimum conditioning and provides fullness and volume to fabric and to hair.
Another object is to provide a conditioning composition that does not cause excess
deposition on hair upon repeated use.
A further another object of this invention is to provide a conditioning shampoo
formulation that besides conditioning the hair and giving it an increased volume, also
renders moisturizing properties to the hair.
Summary Of The Invention
Thus there is provided a conditioning composition comprising at least one cationic
polymer, at least one ethoxylated derivative of dihydroxypropyl linoleammonium
chloride and at least one phospholipid.
In one embodiment the invention provides a conditioning composition adapted to
provide improved volume and fullness, comprising:
a) polyquaternium;

b) at least one ethoxylated derivative of dihydroxypropyl linoleaminium
chloride; and
c) linoleamidopropyl PG - dimonium chloride phosphate.
In another embodiment the invention provides a synergistic composition comprising
polyquaternium, dihydroxypropyl linoleammonium chloride and linoleamidopropyl
PG-dimonium chloride phosphate.
In yet another embodiment the invention provides a conditioning composition
comprising polyquaternium, dihydroxypropyl linoleammonium chloride and
linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate and optional ingredients for use
in hair conditioning and fabric conditioning formulations.
In still another embodiment the invention provides a conditioning shampoo
composition comprising a surfactant, polyquaternium, dihydroxypropyl
linoleammonium chloride, linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate and
other optional ingredients.
Brief Description Of The Accompanying Drawings
The foregoing and other advantages and features of the invention will become
apparent upon reading the following detailed description and upon reference to the
drawings in which:
Fig. 1 illustrates the percentage reduction in hair volume (i.e. body) and the
compression energy (i.e. bounce) for untreated tresses and tresses treated with the
formulation of the present invention.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
In the following description, like reference characters designate like or corresponding
parts throughout the several illustrations and embodiments. It is also understood that
the illustrations are for the purpose of describing a particular exemplary embodiment
of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention thereto.
The present invention discloses a conditioning composition that provides superior
conditioning effect to fibers and improves their manageability without causing

excessive deposition even upon repeated use. The conditioning composition
disclosed in the instant invention may be added to other hair care formulations such as
shampoos to generally form 2-in-l shampoo cum conditioning compositions. The
conditioning composition of the present invention may also be added to fabric care
compositions to provide better conditioning benefits to fabric especially, to winter
wear and woolens.
As used herein the term 'conditioning system' refers to individual or a combination of
hair care or fabric care products that help in improving at least one of the sensorials of
touch, feel, softness, volume, manageability and appearance of hair or fibers.
As used herein the term 'hair care' refers to cosmetic formulations, that may be used
for maintaining or managing the hygienic and cosmetic needs of hair. The term
includes formulations used for cleaning, conditioning, treating or protecting hair
against damage or harm.
Within the scope of this invention, the term 'fabric care' refers to formulations for
maintaining or for protecting fabric against any damage or harm.
Shampoos are generally inferred to imply a liquid or cream preparation of soap or
detergent that may be used to wash the hair or scalp or fabric. A 'volumizing
composition' refers to a composition that helps in enhancement in total bulk of hair.
'Volume' in the context of hair, refers to the bulk and body mass of hair.
'Manageability of hair' generally refers to control and management of hair.
As used in the detailed description of this invention, the term 'cationic polymer' refers
to a polymer having a positively charge group of ions. The term includes, but is not
limited to, polymers, one or more of the constituent monomers unit of which, contains
a positive charge, over at least a portion, of the pH range of from 6.0 to 11.0. The term also includes polyquaternium salts that inherently meet this definition
criteria.
As used herein the term 'quaternary ammonium compounds' refers to salts of
quaternary ammonium cations with an anion. The term includes both monomeric and
polymeric quaternary ammonium salts, commonly used as surfactants, disinfectants,
and conditioners.

As used herein the term 'phospholipid' refers to phosphorus-containing lipids.
As used herein the term 'surfactant' refers to agents that lower the surface tension of a
liquid, allowing easier spreading, and lower the interfacial tension between two
liquids. The term includes amphoteric, non-ionic, anionic, cationic surfactants. The
term is synonymous with wetting agents, surface cleansing agent, surface active
agents and the like.
As used herein the term 'ASTM standards' refers to standards stated in ASTM
Procedure E2082-00-Standard Guide for Descriptive Analysis of Shampoo
Performance (§9.3, §9.4 and §9.5). ASTM, originally known as the American Society
for Testing and Materials is an international standards organization that develops and
publishes voluntary technical standards for a wide range of materials, products,
systems and services.
As used herein, the term 'comprising' and its derivative means are intended to be
open ended terms that specify the presence of the stated features, elements,
components, groups, integers, and/or steps, but do not exclude the presence of other,
unstated features, elements, components, groups, integers, and/or steps. This
definition also applies to words of similar meaning, for example, the term "have",
"include", "be provided with" and their derivatives.
All percentages, ratios and proportions herein are by weight of the composition,
unless otherwise specified. All temperature measurements and references thereto are
in the units of °C, unless mentioned otherwise.
In one embodiment the invention discloses a conditioning system comprising three
conditioning agents, namely, cationic polymer such as a hydroxyethyl cellulose
derivative like Polyquaternium 10, a monomeric cationic molecule with ethoxylated
derivative of dihydroxypropyl linoleammonium chloride such as dihydroxypropyl
PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride and phospholipid such as linoleamidopropyl PG -
dimonium chloride phosphate. It has been seen that a synergism exists between the
three conditioning agents, as a result of which, optimum conditioning, volume and
moisturizing properties and benefits are provided to hair. It also helps in reducing the
deposition that developed on repeated use of Polyquaternium 10 alone.

Polyquaternium 10 or PQ-10 is a conditioning polymer based on hydroxethyl
cellulose. It demonstrates a cationic character over the entire useful pH range. More
specifically, it is a water soluble polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxethly
cellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide. It is highly
substantive and is suggested as a sensory modifier for cleansing systems.
PQ-10 provides multifunctional properties to a shampoo composition. As it is
chemically compatible with a wide variety of surfactants and also renders excellent
conditioning benefits, the use of this ingredient is an ideal way of adding conditioning
to a shampoo as well as thickening it.
Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride is a vegetable derived long alkyl
chain cationic monomeric conditioning agent. Being highly substantive it provides
lubricity and detangling to wet hair and effectively builds volume and sheen. It
causes low to negligible deposition on hair on repeated use and gives a soft smooth
after feel and also renders volume to the hair. However, dihydroxypropyl PEG-5
linoleaminium chloride and such other monomeric conditioners are very mild and
thus not substantially efficient conditioners when compared to polymeric conditioners
like PQ-10.
Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate is an organic phospholipid
complex designed to be biomimetic. It is predominantly composed of diester
phosphatides with multiple long chain groups that provide high substantivity and
effective conditioning. Since it is derived from pure natural safflower oil containing a
high level of linoleic acid, it acts as a topical source for a principal essential fatty acid
that is needed to keep the skin healthy. It is generally used in skin and hair care
compositions as to facilitate topical delivery of linoleic acid. It also acts as a non-
greasy emollient. Further, it is a non occlusive moisturizer.
This invention provides a combination of Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride
phosphate with PQ-10 and dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride that
provides substantive manageability, conditioning, moisture retention and
enhancement in hair volume and bounce.
Various optional components may be added to the conditioning system of the present
invention to provide better conditioning benefits in fabric care or hair care
formulations.

The conditioning composition according to the invention may optionally comprise a
surfactant chosen from anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants or
mixtures thereof.
Suitable anionic surfactants of the present invention include, but are not limited to, the
alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl
succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl
ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha-olefin sulphonates, especially
their sodium, magnesium ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The
alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be
unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether
carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per
molecule, and preferably contain 2 to 3 ethylene oxide units per molecule.
Suitable cationic surfactants of the present invention include, but are not limited to,
quaternary ammonium compounds and esterquats, more particularly quaternized fatty
acid trialkanolamine ester salts, aliphatic mono, di and polyamines derived from fatty
and rosin acids, amine oxides, ethoxylated alkyl amines and imidazolines.
Suitable nonionic surfactants of the present invention include, but are not limited to,
condensation products of aliphatic (Cg-Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched
chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally
having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Other suitable nonionics include mono-
or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Example includes coco mono- or di- ethanolamide and
coco mono-isopropanolamide.
The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants suitable for use in compositions of the
invention may include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines,
alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl
amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl
taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19
carbon atoms. Examples include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl
betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium
cocamphopropionate.

Generally, the surfactants are present in shampoo compositions of the invention in an
amount of from 5 to 50%, preferably from 5 to 30%, more preferably from 10% to
25% by weight. Though all these types of surfactants can be used for this invention,
anionic surfactants give the optimum results.
The conditioning composition of the present invention may further comprise one or
more of the conventional optional components known for use in shampoo or
conditioning compositions, provided that the components used are compatible with
the essential component of the shampoo composition both physically and chemically.
These optional components should generally not impair the stability, aesthetics or
performance of the product. Concentrations of such optional components typically
range from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the shampoo compositions.
Optional components may include anti static agents, dyes, organic solvents or
diluents, pearlescent aids, foam boosters, additional surfactants or cosurfactants
(nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic), pediculocides, pH adjusting agents, perfumes,
preservatives, proteins, skin active agents, suspending agents, styling polymers,
sunscreens, thickeners, vitamins, and viscosity adjusting agents. This list of optional
components is not meant to be exclusive, and other optional components can be used.
Water is used as an aqueous carrier in this shampoo composition. The disclosed
invention comprises from 20% to 94%, preferably from 50% to 94%>, more preferably from 60% to 85%, by weight of water.
In one of its embodiments the invention discloses a conditioning shampoo
composition comprising from 5% to 50% of surface cleansing agent,
from 0.01% to 5% by weight of hair conditioning polymer, such as a
hydroxyethyl cellulose derivative like Polyquternium-10, from 0.01% to 5% of
a monomeric cationic molecule with ethoxylated derivative of dihydroxypropyl
linoleammonium chloride, such as dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride,
from 0.01% to 5% by weight of one or more phopholipids such as
linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, water and optionally, one or
more additional material known for use in shampoo or conditioning composition.
Specific and non-limiting examples of the instant invention are disclosed herewith.
Other variations as may be obvious to one skilled in the art may be made in
compounds, compositions, and methods described herein without departing from the

essential features of the invention. These and such others may be considered
illustrative and non restrictive to the scope of the present invention.
Exam pie 1
Exemplary data are presented herewith in Table 1, Table 2 and Table 3. As illustrated
in the Tables, the conditioning system of the present invention was mixed to
surfactants to form the exemplary conditioning shampoo formulations.

In Table 1, Formulation D comprises all three designated components i.e.
Polyquaternium 10, Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride and
linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate. Formulation A contains all
ingredients in formulation D except dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride
and linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate. Formulation B contains all
ingredients in formulation D except linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride
phosphate while Formulation C contains all ingredients in Formulation D except

dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride. Formulation E contains all
ingredients except Polyquaternium 10.
Sensory and in-vitro evaluations were conducted on formulations A, B, C, D and E.
The conditioning efficiency of shampoo formulations with the conditioning system
was also tested. The results obtained are summarized as under.
A. Sensory data
Formulations A, B, C, D and E were tested on hair in order to produce sensory data.
The methodology adopted for sensory evaluation is based on ASTM procedure
E2082-00-Standard Guide for descriptive analysis of shampoo performance (§9.3,
§9.4 and §9.5.). The observations are presented in the following sections of this
detailed description (Table 2)

From the data it is seen that a synergy exists between the three components in terms
of ease of detangling, force to comb, dry feel, volume and manageability of hair.
Whereas hair treated with Polyquaternium 10 or Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5

linoleaminium chloride, present individually, in a formulation are difficult or
moderately difficult to detangle and whereas hair treated with a formulation
containing a combination of Polyquaternium 10 and linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium
chloride phosphate are also moderately difficult to detangle. From the
aforementioned data, it appears that that it is easy to detangle hair treated with a
formulation containing a combination of linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride
phosphate, Polyquaternium 10 and dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride.
Similarly, the force to comb is low in hair treated with Polyquaternium 10 or
Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride, present individually, in a
formulation or a combination of Polyquaternium 10 and linoleamidopropyl PG-
dimonium chloride phosphate present in a formulation. However, no force is required
to comb hair treated with a formulation containing a combination of the three
ingredients in a single formulation.
Whereas no significant increase is seen in the volume of hair repeatedly treated with
Polyquaternium 10 and whereas hair volume is only slightly high in case of hair
treated with Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride, it is seen that in case of
hair treated with a combination of Polyquaternium 10, dihydroxypropyl PEG-5
linoleaminium chloride and linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate a
significant increase in volume is obtained. This is distinctly and favourably
comparable to the combinations of dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride,
Polyquaternium 10 and linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate where at
least one of the three components is not present.
Further, the overall manageability of the volumized hair is drastically improved by the
synergistic combination of the instant invention. Whereas manageability is poor and
moderate respectively in case of hair treated with a formulation containing
Polyquaternium 10 and dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride individually
and whereas it is moderate in case of formulation containing any of the combinations
containing two of the three designated components, it is seen that a formulation
comprising Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 linoleaminium chloride, linoleamidopropyl PG -
dimonium chloride phosphate and Polyquaternium 10 provides high manageability.
Further, the dry feel is improved in case of combinations of the three components
adding to the total conditioning effects achieved by the composition.

From the sensory data given above it is evident that formulation D gives the best
results with respect to detangling, ease of combing, slipperiness, volume and overall
manageability.
B. In-vitro Test Results
Further to the sensory tests, in vitro tests were conducted to evaluate the role of
formulation D in rendering volume and conditioning (over all manageability) to the
hair as these are the key elements of benefit from this invention. Given below are the
observations of the same.
In order to measure the body (volume) and bounce of the hair on use of formula D, in-
vitro evaluations using hair tresses (treated with formula D) and control (untreated)
were conducted. .
Evaluation Procedure
Five 20g bundle tresses were set into conical shape. Before measurements, the hair
tresses were combed gently to remove tangles. Volume measurements were then
taken for the control tresses, with a minimum of three runs for each tress. For the
product application, shampoo was applied in the root to tip direction in the amount of
0.5ml/g of hair. The tresses were washed with shampoo for 1 minute and rinsed for 1
minute with water at 37°C. Tresses were combed and left for conditioning overnight
at 21°C and 65% RH conditions. Volume measurements were again taken for the
treated tresses. Indian hair was used in this work. Body (volume) and bounce was
measured using a ring compression method. For each of the five tresses before
treatment (control), the reduction in volume and the compression energies (from pass
1 to pass 2 through the ring) are calculated using the formula:
% reduction(body or bounce)= [(Pass 1 value - Pass 2 value)/Pass 1 value]* 100
Body data is obtained from volume readings while bounce data is obtained from the
measured compression energies. Percent changes are subsequently averaged over the
five tresses for both the control specimens and subsequently, for tresses treated with
the formulation of this invention .

Fig. 1 illustrates a graph which shows the percentage reduction in volume (i.e. body)
and compression energy (i. e. bounce) for untreated tresses and tresses treated with
the formulation of the present invention (i. e. formulation D).
Treatment showed 24% enhancement in body and a 36% increase in bounce
data (which is measured as a decrease in absolute values for volume and compression
force respectively) of the treated tresses when compared with the control specimen.
In this evaluation methodology, lower absolute numerical values imply a better
volume and bounce imparted to hair.
C. Measurement of Conditioning Efficiency by Shampoos
Cationic deposition on hair fibers may be studied with the help of anionic dye binding
protocols. Cationic polymers, bind to the negatively charged hair fiber. By using
anionic dyes, such as Rubine Dye, the deposition of cationic polymers can be visually
detected and quantified. Traditionally, such anionic dyes are used to demonstrate the
deposition of cationic deposition and to study the deposition effectiveness of different
shampoo formulations. For studying the deposition of cationic dyes delivered through
shampoo formulations, wool swatches are routinely used. Since wool (or yarn) fibres
share several functional similarities with human hair and also since the electrical
charge of wool fibers are similar to that of hair, wool is a preferred substrate for such
evaluation studies.
Samples
The following samples were used in the measurement protocol. A control specimen
comprising untreated wool fiber swatches, cleansing shampoo solution, Formulation
D and anionic dye staining.
Materials
The following materials were used in the measurement protocol. Wool tresses
prepared from white wool (from KDR Woolen Industries, Delhi), 14% SLES solution
for washing, Direct Red80 dye solution and 1% ALS solution.
Sample preparation and Treatment
Twined wool samples were approximately cut to the length of 16cms and their
component fibers were separated. Fibers were used to make swatches that
approximately weighed lg. Fiber samples were labeled for identification purposes.

About 3.5gms of Direct Red80 dye (Fluka) is measured and 8.75gms of glacial
acetic acid is slowly and uniformly mixed with the dye. The volume of this solution
is made up to 350ml by adding distilled water.
Direct Red 80 dye is an anionic dye that readily reacts with cationic polymers. When
light blonde hair or wool is treated with a cationic conditioner and rinsed, the hair (or
wool) turns reddish pink when dipped into a dilute solution of Direct Red80 dye. The
control specimen was not treated with dye.
Before the treatment of wool swatches with different formulations, the swatches are
washed using SLES (14%) once. For each wool tress, 0.5g of SLES is used. After
washing and drying, the swatches were treated with 0.3 g of the aforementioned
formulations. One set of swatches was kept as controls. Three treatments were given
to each sample.
After the above treatment, all the tresses were stained with Direct Red80 dye solution
for 1 minute by immersing them into the dye solution. Swatches were subsequently
rinsed with water to remove excess stain and washed once using a fixed quantity of
1% ALS solution for 1 minute to remove the unbound dye, if any. Subsequently, the
swatches were rinsed with water and dried.
The swatches were then tightly stretched and fixed between two clean glass slides and
the Hunter L, a and b numerical values were taken using an Electrophotometer. For
each swatch the color measurements were taken at least at 10 different locations to
ensure accuracy and calculate statistical confidence. From the recorded L, a and b
values, the AE value (Delta E or total color change) was calculated for all the
swatches with respect to the control using the formula:
AE=V(AL2+Aa2+Ab2)
where L is a measure of lightness, 'a' indicates redness and 'b' indicates blueness.
Calculations
The content of cationic conditioner deposition on hairs were calculated by the
formula:
AE = V(AL2+Aa2+Ab2)
where

AE, the total color change, was calculated for all the swatches with respect to the
control sample.
'L' stands for lightness,
'a' for redness and
'b' for blueness.
Expressing the result to two decimal places, measurements were repeated twice to
obtain a high confidence level in the measured data.

As represented in Table 3, the formulation disclosed in the present invention
(Formulation D) demonstrates a conditioning efficiency that is 4.7 times better than a
cleansing shampoo control without conditioner. Accordingly all the essential
components act synergistically to provide the desired effect of the conditioning
composition "

Example 2
Process of preparation: Polyquaternium 10 is dispersed in a part of formulation water
and stirred for 15 minutes at 60°C. This dispersion is then added to a mix of
surfactants, which has been maintained at the same temperature. This resultant
mixture is then cooled. Thereafter Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleaminium Chloride
and Linoleamidopropyl PG - Dimonium Chloride Phosphate are added sequentially to
the mixture and mixed thoroughly. Other components of the formulation such as
preservatives, colors & fragrances are thereafter added to obtain the final formulation.
Composition: Sodium Laureth -2 EO- Sulphate (28%), 10.00-50.00w/w%;
Cocoamidopropyl Betain (29%) 3.00-10.00w/w%; Laureth-3, 0.50-5.00w/w%;
dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleaminium Chloride, 0.10-5.00w/w%; Polyquat 10,
0.01-5.00w/w%; linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, 0.01—
5.00w/w%; Perfume, 0.01-2.00w/w%; Colour, 0.01-2.00w/w%; D M water, QS to
100.
Example 3
Process of preparation: Polyquaternium 10 is dispersed in a part of formulation water
and stirred for 15 minutes at 60°C. This dispersion is then added to a mix of
surfactants, which has been maintained at the same temperature. This resultant
mixture is then cooled. Thereafter Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleaminium Chloride
and Linoleamidopropyl PG - Dimonium Chloride Phosphate are added sequentially to
the mixture and mixed thoroughly. Other components of the formulation such as
preservatives, colors & fragrances are thereafter added to obtain the final formulation.
Composition: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 14w/w%; Laureth-3, lw/w%;
Cocamidopropylbetaine, 2w/w%; Polyquaternium 10, 0.2w/w%; Linoleamidopropyl
PG - Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, 0.3w/w%; Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5
Linoleaminium Chloride, 1.0w/w%; Preservative, perfume, colour, sodium chloride,
q.s.; Water, q.s. to 100%
The conditioning compositions according to the present invention may be formulated
into hair care formulations, for example, shampoos, rinses, hair-conditioners, two-in-
one shampoo cum conditioner compositions, 3-in-l compositions, anti-dandruff
shampoos and conditioners, hair-tonics, hair-treatment creams and lotions, hair setting

agents, hair styling compositions, hair foams, colour protection shampoos or
conditioners and the like. Each composition of these formulations may, it necessary,
contain appropriate vehicles and various additives. The kind and amount of these
ingredients are not critical and can be selected appropriately and easily by those of
ordinary skill in the art.
The conditioning compositions according to the present invention may be formulated
into fabric care formulations, for example, fabric bleaches, fabric bluing products,
fabric color removers, detergents, detergent boosters, fabric disinfectants, dry-
cleaning fluids, fabric dyes, fabric enzyme presoak products, fabric finishes, fabric
fresheners, fabric softeners, presoak products, pretreatment products, rust removers,
stain removers, starch water softeners, fabric whiteners and the like. Each
composition of these formulations may, it necessary, contain appropriate vehicles and
various additives. The kind and amount of these ingredients are not critical and can be
selected appropriately and easily by those of ordinary skill in the art.
Although the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments,
this description is not meant to be construed in a limiting sense. Various
modifications of the disclosed embodiments, as well as alternate embodiments of the
invention, will become apparent to persons skilled in the art, upon reference to the
description of the invention. It is therefore contemplated that such modifications can
be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the present invention as defined.

We claim:
1. A conditioning composition comprising:
a) polyquaternium;
b) at least one ethoxylated derivative of dihydroxypropyl linoleaminium chloride; and
c) linoleamidopropyl PG - dimonium chloride phosphate.
2. The conditioner composition of claim 1 further comprising a surfactant selected from
anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof and optional
ingredients selected from the group comprising anti static agents, dyes, organic solvents,
diluents, pearlescent aids, foam boosters, additional surfactants or cosurfactants
(nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic), pediculocides, pH adjusting agents, perfumes,
preservatives, proteins, skin active agents, suspending agents, styling polymers,
sunscreens, thickeners, vitamins, and viscosity adjusting agents.
3. The conditioning composition of claim 1 comprising from 0.01% by weight to 5%
by weight of polyquaternium.
4. The conditioning composition of claim 1 comprising from 0.01% by weight to 5% by
weight of Dihydroxypropyl Linoleaminium Chloride.
5. The conditioning composition of claim 1 comprising from 0.01% by weight to 5%
by weight of Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate.
6. The conditioning composition of claim 2 comprising from 5% by weight to 50% by
weight of surfactant.
7. The conditioning composition of claim 2 wherein the optional ingredients are present in
an amount of 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight.

8. The conditioner composition of claim 1 which is a synergistic composition.
9. The conditioning composition of claim 1 which provides at least 24% increase in volume
of treated hair.
10. The conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the composition provides at least 36%
increase in bounce of treated hair and manageability characteristics to hair.
11. The conditioning composition of claim 2 wherein the composition is a hair care
composition.
12. The conditioning composition of claim 11 wherein the composition is a shampoo cum
conditioning composition.
13. The conditioning composition of claim 2 wherein the composition is a fabric care
composition.


Title: CONDITIONING COMPOSITIONS HAVING VOLUMIZING
PROPERTIES
ABSTRACT
A conditioning composition comprising polyquaternium; at least one ethoxylated
derivative of dihydroxypropyl linoleaminium chloride; and linoleamidopropyl PG -
dimonium chloride phosphate.

Applicant: ITC LIMITED
Application No.: 1294/KOL/2006

ONE SHEET
SHEET ONE

% Change in Volume/Bounce

H Control
■ Treated

Volume

Compression Energy

Fig.l

A. K. Chakrabart^
OfS. Majumdar & Co.
Applicant's Agent

agents, hair styling compositions, hair foams, colour protection shampoos or
conditioners and the like. Each composition of these formulations may, it necessary,
contain appropriate vehicles and various additives. The kind and amount of these
ingredients are not critical and can be selected appropriately and easily by those of
ordinary skill in the art.
The conditioning compositions according to the present invention may be formulated
into fabric care formulations, for example, fabric bleaches, fabric bluing products,
fabric color removers, detergents, detergent boosters, fabric disinfectants, dry-
cleaning fluids, fabric dyes, fabric enzyme presoak products, fabric finishes, fabric
fresheners, fabric softeners, presoak products, pretreatment products, rust removers,
stain removers, starch water softeners, fabric whiteners and the like. Each
composition of these formulations may, it necessary, contain appropriate vehicles and
various additives. The kind and amount of these ingredients are not critical and can be
selected appropriately and easily by those of ordinary skill in the art.
Although the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments,
this description is not meant to be construed in a limiting sense. Various
modifications of the disclosed embodiments, as well as alternate embodiments of the
invention, will become apparent to persons skilled in the art, upon reference to the
description of the invention. It is therefore contemplated that such modifications can
be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the present invention as defined.


We claim:
1. A conditioning composition comprising:
a) polyquaternium;
b) at least one ethoxylated derivative of dihydroxypropyl linoleaminium chloride; and
c) linoleamidopropyl PG - dimonium chloride phosphate. .. s ~6y~>^-^^'
2. The conditioner composition of claim 1/further comprising a) surfactant and
optional ingredients selected from the group comprising anti static agents,
dyes, organic solvents, diluents, pearlescent aids, foam boosters, additional
surfactants or cosurfactants (nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic), pediculocides,
pH adjusting agents, perfumes, preservatives, proteins, skin active agents,
suspending agents, styling polymers, sunscreens, thickeners, vitamins, and
viscosity adjusting agents.
3. The conditioning composition of claim 1 comprising from 0.01% by
weight to about,5% by weight of polyquaternium./'
4. The conditioning composition of claim 1 comprising from 0.01% by
weight to 5% by weight of Dihydroxypropyl Linoleaminium Chloride.
5. The conditioning composition of claim 1 comprising from 0.01% by
weight to 5% by weight of Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride
Phosphate.
6. The conditioning composition of claim 2 comprising from 5% by weight
to 50% by weight of surfactant. »

7. The conditioning composition of claim 2 wherein the optional ingredients are .
present in an amount of 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight.
8. The conditioner composition of claim 1 which is a synergistic composition. ^^ *\~ * ""
9. The conditioning composition of claim 1 which provides at least 24% . >t- "A
10. The conditioning composition of claim 1 wherein the composition provides at
least 36% increase in bounce of treated hair and manageability
characteristics to hair.
~~ 22

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