Technical Field:
The present invention relates to an aqueous composition that renders enhanced
conditioning and moisturizing to the hair on repeated use. The moisturizing system
incorporated in the composition hydrates the hair while enhancing the efficacy of the
conditioning system, making the hair look healthy, lively and shiny.
Background of the Invention:
Human hair becomes soiled primarily because of sebum secreted by scalp and secondly
from their continuous contact with surrounding environment. Biologically, sebum is oil
secreted by the hair follicles that is absorbed by the strands of hair. It forms a protective
layer on the protein structure of hair against damage. However, although sebum protects
hair, it tends to collect dirt, styling products and scalp flakes. Shampoos clean the hair by
stripping sebum from the hair shafts and removing the dirt built up on it. Shampooing
cleanses hair of oils, dirt, skin particles, environmental pollution and other particles that
contaminate and gradually build up in hair.
However, shampoos essentially contain surfactants that have a tendency to remove
desirable natural oils that lubricate the hair shaft along with the undesirable dirt and skin
particles. This generally makes the hair dry, frizzy and unmanageable.
The problem has often been addressed by addition of hair conditioning aids in shampoos.
Hair conditioners work by depositing material on the hair shaft, particularly at the cuticle
edges, in order to reduce grooming force and negative charge, to raise fullness, and to
intensify brightness. Conditioners make hair manageable by reducing static electricity
and friction among hair shaft. Reduction of static electricity is reached by hair
conditioners through deposition of positively charged ions on the hair, counterbalancing
negative charges from combing or brushing. Reduction of friction is reached through
increasing cuticle scales' attachment to the shaft by smoothing. Smooth hair cuticles
provide more light reflection, deriving in brighter and more pliable hair.
Another solution available in the art for softening of hair follicles is the addition of
moisturizers to hair treatment products. Moisturizers act on the hair sclap and help retain
moisture so that hairs appear healthy. Reduced amounts of panthenol have been proven to
infiltrate the hair shaft and improve moisture content of the cortex. Amino acids can also
penetrate into the cortex and help decrease protein deterioration after repeated washing.
Various prior art references, some of which are cited below, mention the use of either a
conditioner or a moisturizer in shampoo composition.
U.S. Patent no.6927196 relates to a shampoo composition, which incorporates cationic
polymers, silicone compounds, polyalkylene glycols and their mixtures as conditioning
agents.
U.S. Patent no. 6743760 discloses a conditioning shampoo composition, which includes
Silicone quaternium 8 and Polyquaternium 10 to impart conditioning properties to the
composition.
U.S. Patent no. 6410493 also deals with a conditioning shampoo preparation, which
recommends the use of microemulsions of silicones along with cationic polymer as
conditioning agents.
U.S Patent no. 5456863 deals with a shampoo composition, which incorporates soluble
silicones such as dimethicone copolyol as conditioning agents.
European Patent no. 0529883 discloses a shampoo composition comprising a surfactant,
a deposition polymer and microemulsified particles of a conditioning oil having a particle
size of < 0.15 microns. The invention excludes the use of Merquat 550 (polyquaternium
7) as a deposition polymer stating that poquaternium 7 when used in the disclosed
composition lowers the conditioning property of the composition. Use of microemulsified
particles specifically of a particle size of < 0.15 microns further limits the conditioning
benefits attainable by the composition containing them.
Thus there is a need for a product that conditions hair and preferably also provides them
with optimum moisturization. Prior art also states the use of combinations of
moisturizers and conditioners in shampoo compositions, however it is generally seen that
the compositions so obtained are not totally satisfactory for a variety of reasons. Most
shampoo compositions containing an arbitrary mix of ingredients render improper
conditioning to hair or tend to make them sticky, heavy and greasy. Also, the presence of
multiple ingredients in a composition tends to destabilize it. Use of natural conditioners
or moisturizers in an aqueous base necessitates addition of preservatives or
antimicrobials. This generally adds to the total cost of the final product. Hence there is a
need for a stable composition, which retains hair moisture, conditions and cleans them
without compromising on their manageability and general finesse.
Objects of the invention:
The present invention meets these and such other needs by providing an aqueous
composition that conditions and moisturizes hair.
Another object of the invention is to prepare an aqueous composition that retains the hair
moisture and hydrates the hair.
Still another object of the invention is to prepare an aqueous composition that improves
the manageability and shine of the hair.
Yet another object of the invention is to provide a shampoo composition that cleans,
conditions and moisturizes hair.
Detailed Description
The present invention discloses an aqueous composition comprising at least one
conditioning system and at least one moisturizing system wherein the at least one
conditioning system comprises polyquaternium 7 and microemulsified dimethiconol and
the at least one moisturizing system comprises at least one amino acid and derivative
thereof and at least one vitamin and derivative thereof. The invention also discloses a
shampoo composition comprising at least one surfactant, at least one conditioning system
and at least one moisturizing system wherein the at least one conditioning system
comprises polyquaternium 7 and microemulsified dimethiconol and the at least one
moisturizing system comprises at least one amino acid and derivative thereof and at least
one vitamin and derivative thereof.
As used herein the term 'aqueous composition' relates to a composition based in water or
water-soluble medium. The term includes compositions based in dematerialized water,
mineral water, bottled water, artesian water, drinking water, distilled water, deionized
water, reverse osmosis water, purified water, spring water and sterile water.
As used herein the term 'conditioning system' refers to individual or combination of hair
care products that help in improving at least one of the sensorial of touch, feel, softness,
volume, manageability and appearance of hair or fibers. The term is synonymous with a
hair care product capable of providing a soft feel to the coat and provides hairs that lay
flat and are easily combable.
The term 'moisturizing system' as used herein refers to chemical compositions and
combinations thereof which when applied provide a moisturizing effect to hair follicles.
The term 'moisturizing effect' as used herein refers to effects shown by moisturizers such
as retention/increase in water content, holding and redistribution of water and
maintenance of the integrity and appearance of hair.
Moisturizer' refers to the action of a material which, after one or more applications,
minimizes to a desired extent whatever drying effect a shampoo might have on the hair of
an animal.
As used herein the term 'microemulsified dimethiconol' relates to a "single optically
isotropic and thermodynamically stable liquid solution of dimethiconol in water wherein
the dispersed droplet of dimethiconol is less than 100 nanometers in diameter. The
solution may additionally comprise at least one emulsifier.
As used herein the term 'poyquaternium 7' relates to a cationic polymer comprising a
quaternary ammonium center along with 30 mole % diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride
70 mole % acrylamide and one or more preservatives. The term is inclusive of derivatives
of polyquatenium 7.
The term 'amino acid' as used in the instant invention relates to an organic acid that
possesses at least one amino group and that makes up proteins and some other naturally
occurring compounds. The term includes but is not restricted to alanine, cysteine,
aspartic acid, glutamic acid, phenylalanine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, leucine,
methionine, asparagine, pyrrolysine, proline, glutamine, arginine, serine, threonine,
selenocysteine, valine, tryptophan, tyrosine and derivatives thereof.
As used herewith the term 'vitamin' refers to biomolecules that act both as catalysts and
substrates in biochemical reactions and to those organic compounds, which are required
in tiny amounts for essential metabolic reactions in living organisms to maintain good
health. Generally these compounds cannot be synthesized in sufficient quantities by an
organism, and must be obtained from the diet. For the purposes of the present invention,
the term 'vitamin(s)' includes, without limitation, thiamin, riboflavin, nicotinic acid,
pantothenic acid, pyridoxine, biotin, folic acid, vitamin B12, lipoic acid, ascorbic acid,
vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E and vitamin K. The tern includes both water-soluble
vitamins and fat-soluble vitamins. Also included within the term "vitamin" are the
coenzymes thereof. Coenzymes are specific chemical forms of vitamins. Coenzymes
include thiamine pyrophosphates (TPP), flavin mononucleotide (FMM), flavin adenine
dinucleotide (FAD), Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD), Nicotinamide adenine
dinucleotide phosphate (NADP), Coenzyme A (CoA), pyridoxal phosphate, biocytin,
tetrahydrofolic acid, coenzyme B12, lipoyllysine, 11-cis-retinal, and 1,25-
dihydroxycholecalciferol. The term 'vitamin(s)' also includes choline, carnitine, and
alpha, beta, and gamma carotenes.
The term 'derivatives' used in conjunction with the term amino acid or vitamins refers to
compounds in which at least one atom selected from hydrogen, oxygen or carbon in the
amino acid or vitamins molecule is replaced by an atom or a group of atoms ordinarily
present as a substituent in these kinds of organic compounds. These derivatives in terms
of amino acids include but are not restricted to N-acyl amino acid compounds, peptides,
di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, and hexapeptides, polypeptides, proteins, wheat protein, maize
protein, animal proteins, protein derivatives, etherified amino acid, benzylated, branched
amino acid, acylated amino acid, sulfated amino acid, esterified amino acids, alcohols of
amino acid, halogenated amino acids and salts of amino acid. The term derivatives in
relation to vitamins includes but is not limited to retinals, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl
linoleate, retinyl acetate, retinoids, retinyl propionate, retinoic acid, ascorbyl palmitate,
ascorbic acid 2-phosphate (AA-2P), ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl
glucoside, niacinamide, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate,
pantothenic acid, panthenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, ethyl panthenol, tocopherol acetate,
acylated vitamins, sulfated vitamins, vitamin esters, alcohols of vitamins, halogenated
vitamins, alkylated vitamins, salts of vitamins. These derivatives are known or can be
prepared by a method similar to that for the known derivatives.
The term 'shampoo' means a cleansing product containing surfactants that is massaged
into wet hair, usually thereby creating foam, which is then rinsed from the hair with
water, removing at least some soil and/or oils from the hair.
The term 'surfactant' means an ingredient that is used in a cosmetic formulation and
exhibits the ability to reduce the interfacial tension between two immiscible substances,
wets skin and hair surfaces, emulsifies or solubilizes oils, and/or suspends soil and is
meant to include amphoteric, anionic, cationic, and nonionic surfactants. The term is
synonymous with wetting agents, surface cleansing agents, surface-active agents and the
like.
As used in the detailed description of this invention, the term 'cationic polymer' refers to
a polymer having a positively charge group of ions. The term includes, but is not limited
to, polymers, one or more of the constituent monomers unit of which, contains a positive
charge, over at least a portion, of the pH range of from about 6.0 to about 11.0: The term
also includes polyquaternium salts that inherently meet this definition criterion.
As used herein the term 'ASTM standards' refers to standards stated in ASTM Procedure
E2082-00-Standard Guide for Descriptive Analysis of Shampoo Performance (§9.3, §9.4
and §9.5). ASTM, originally known as the American Society for Testing and Materials is
an international standards organization that develops and publishes voluntary technical
standards for a wide range of materials, products, systems and services.
As used herein, the term 'comprising' and its derivative means are intended to be open
ended terms that specify the presence of the stated features, elements, components,
groups, integers, and/or steps, but do not exclude the presence of other, unstated features,
elements, components, groups, integers, and/or steps. This definition also applies to
words of similar meaning, for example, the term "have", "include", "be provided with"
and their derivatives.
All percentages, ratios and proportions herein are by weight of the composition, unless
otherwise specified.
The instant invention discloses an aqueous composition comprising a combination of at
least one conditioning system and at least one moisturizing system. The conditioning
system further comprises microemulsified dimethiconol and polyquaternium 7.
Suitable dimethiconol microemulsion for use in the invention is commercially available
in a pre-emulsified form. Such pre-formed emulsions can be incorporated into the
aqueous composition by simple mixing, which is particularly advantageous for ease of
processing. Pre-formed emulsions are available from suppliers of silicone oils such as
Dow Corning, General Electric, Union Carbide, Wacker Chemie, Shin Etsu, Toshiba,
Toyo Beauty Co, and Toray Silicone Co.
> ¦*
An aqueous emulsion is the preferred form for such a pre-formed emulsion. In such
emulsions, it is usual that the emulsion additionally includes at least one emulsifier in
order to stabilize the silicone emulsion.
Suitable emulsifiers are well known in the art and include anionic and nonionic
surfactants. Examples of anionic surfactants used as emulsifiers for the silicone particles
are alkylarylsulphonates, e.g., sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, alkyl sulphates e.g.,
sodium lauryl sulphate, alkyl ether sulphates, e.g., sodium lauryl ether sulphate nEO,
where n is from 1 to 20 alkylphenol ether sulphates, e.g., octylphenol ether sulphate nEO
where n is from 1 to 20, and sulphosuccinates, e.g., sodium dioctylsulphosuccinate.
The concentration of the dimethiconol microemulsion for use in the compositions of the
present invention preferably ranges from about 0.001% to about 15 %, more preferably
from about 0.005 % to about 10 %, even more preferably from about 0.01 % to about
5%, by weight of the composition.
The conditioning system of the instant invention further comprises high molecular weight
cationic polymers sold under the trade mark Merquat by Merck & Co. Inc. Preferred
cationic polymers used in the aqueous composition are Merquat 100, a highly charged
cationic dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer, and Merquat 550, a highly
charged cationic copolymer prepared with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and
acrylamide. These materials are designated in the CFTA dictionary as Quaternium-40 and
Polyquaternium-7, respectively.
Cationic surfactants such as mono-, di- and tri-alkyl quaternary ammonium salts may also
be used as the cationic conditioning agent in the aqueous composition of the present
invention. Suitable examples are cetyl trimethylammonium chloride, cetyl
trirnethylammonium bromide and stearyltrimethylammonium chloride.
The concentration of the polyquaternium for use in the compositions of the present
invention preferably ranges from about 0.001% to about 15 %, more preferably from
about 0.005 % to about 10 %, even more preferably from about 0.01 % to about 5%, by
weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment the invention discloses a conditioning system comprising
emulsified dimethiconol and polyquaternium 7.
The moisturizing system disclosed in the instant invention comprises at least one amino
acid, derivative thereof, at least one vitamin and derivative thereof. The at least one
amino acid is selected from the group comprising alanine, cysteine, aspartic acid,
glutamic acid, phenylalanine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, leucine, methionine,
asparagine, pyrrolysine, proline, glutamine, arginine, serine, threonine, selenocysteine,
valine, tryptophan, tyrosine and combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment of the
invention the moisturizing system comprises glycine.
The concentration of the amino acid for use in the compositions of the present invention
preferably ranges from about 0.0001 % to about 10%, more preferably from about
0.0005% to about 5 %, even more preferably from about 0.001% to about 1%, by weight
of the composition.
The at least one amino acid derivative that comprises the moisturizing system of the
instant invention is selected from the group comprising but not restricted to methyl amino
acids, polyaminoacids peptides, polypeptides, phospholipids, proteins di-, tri-, tetra-,
penta-, and hexapeptides, proteins, wheat protein, maize protein, animal proteins
quaternised proteins and combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment the
moisturizing system of the present invention comprises wheat protein.
The concentration of the amino acid derivative for use in the compositions of the present
invention preferably ranges from about 0.0001% to about 15%, more preferably from
about 0.0005% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.001% to about 5%, by
weight of the composition.
The at least one vitamin that comprises the moisturizing system of the instant invention is
selected from the group comprising but not restricted to water soluble and fat soluble
vitamins such as vitamin A, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, pyridoxine, biotin, Vitamin B9,
folic acid, cobalamin, Vitamin B8, panthenol, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin K
provitamins and combinations thereof. Pantothenic Acid also known as Vitamin B5 is
known to impart excellent moisturizing and conditioning properties to hair. In a preferred
embodiment the moisturizing system of the present invention comprises panthenol.
The concentration of the vitamin for use in the compositions of the present invention
preferably ranges from about 0.0001% to about 15%, more preferably from about
0.0005% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.001% to about 5%, by weight
of the composition.
The at least one vitamin derivative that comprises the moisturizing system of the instant
invention is selected from the group comprising but not restricted to retinals, retinol,
retinyl palmitate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl acetate, retinoids, retinyl propionate, retinoic
acid, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid 2-phosphate (AA-2P), ascorbic acid 2-glucoside,
ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, nicotinic acid, nicotinamide, magnesium ascorbyl
phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, panthenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, ethyl
panthenol, tocopherol acetate, acylated vitamins, sulfated vitamins, vitamin esters,
alcohols of vitamins, halogenated vitamins, alkylated vitamins, salts of vitamins, vitamin
extracts and combinations thereof. Specific non-limiting examples of selected
pantothenic acid derivatives for use herein include ethyl panthenol, D - Panthenol and
combinations thereof. Preferred are the d-isomeric forms of such derivative forms, most
preferably panthenyl ethyl ether.
The concentration of the vitamin derivative for use in the compositions of the present
invention preferably ranges from about 0.0001 % to about 10%, more preferably from
about 0.0005% to about 5 %, even more preferably from about 0.001% to about 1%, by
weight of the composition.
This invention provides a combination of a conditioning system with a novel
moisturizing system that provides substantive manageability, conditioning and moisture
retention.
The aqueous composition according to the invention may further comprise a surfactant
chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants or
mixtures thereof.
Suitable anionic surfactants of the present invention include, but are not limited to, the
alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl
succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether
phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha-olefin sulphonates, especially their
sodium, magnesium ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and
acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The
alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain
from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule, and preferably
contain 2 to 3 ethylene oxide units per molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants
of the present invention include, but are not limited to, sodium oleyl succinate,
ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene
sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate,
sodium lauroyl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate. The most preferred anionic
surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, triethanolamine lauryl sulphate, triethanolamine
monolauryl phosphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO, ammonium
lauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO.
Suitable cationic surfactants of the present invention include, but are not limited to,
quaternary ammonium compounds and esterquats, more particularly quaternized fatty
acid trialkanolamine ester salts, aliphatic mono, di and polyamines derived from fatty and
rosin acids, amine oxides, ethoxylated alkyl amines and imidazolines.
The nonionic surfactants of the present invention suitable for use in compositions of the
invention may include condensation products of aliphatic (C8-C18) primary or secondary
linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide
and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Other suitable nonionics
include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Example includes coco mono- or di-
ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide.
The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants suitable for use in compositions of the
invention may include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines,
alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl
amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl
taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon
atoms. Examples include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and
preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate.
Generally, the surfactants are present in shampoo compositions of the invention in an
amount of from 15 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 30%, more preferably from 5% to 25%
by weight.
Organic cationic Polymer
The aqueous composition of the invention may also further comprise a cationic
conditioning agent.
Suitable cationic guar gum derivatives are those given the CTFA designation guar
hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, available commercially for example as JAGUAR
C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and a high viscosity.
The low degree of cationic substitution leads to a cationic charge density of 0.0008. Other
suitable materials include that known as JAGUAR CI5, having a moderate degree of
substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degree of substitution, hence
cationic charge density of 0.0016, high viscosity) and JAGUAR C16 which is a
hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups
as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups. JAGUAR CI6 has a cationic charge
density of 0.0008. Also suitable is JAGUAR 162, which is a high transparency, medium
viscosity guar having a low degree of substitution.
Other cationic conditioning agents useful in the shampoos of the present invention
include cationic polyamide polymers such as the low molecular weight adipic
acid/diethylene-triamine polyamide and the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternised with dimethyl sulphate (Gafquat 755, GAF
Corporation); the graft cationic copolymer containing N-vinylpyrrolidone,
dimethyaminoethyl methacrylate and polyethylene glycol; the mineral acid salts of the
amino alkyl esters of homo- and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from
3 to 5 carbon atoms.
Additional conditioners that may be added to the shampoo composition in the form of
organic cationic conditioning agents for the purpose of providing more hair grooming if
deemed necessary such as cationic conditioning agents that may include homopolymers
of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride; copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyl
ammonium chloride; homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic acid or
methacrylic acid which contain cationic nitrogen functional groups attached to the
polymer by ester or amide linkages and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and acrylic acid
esters with quaternary nitrogen functionality. Specific materials include Polyquaterniums
11 other possible candidates include Polyquaterniums 8 and 23 provided that clarity can
be maintained.
The cationic conditioning agent is preferably present in the shampoo composition of the
invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, most preferably in an amount of
from 0.2 to 3% by weight.
The aqueous composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more of
the conventional optional components known for use in shampoo or conditioning
compositions, provided that the components used are compatible with the essential
component of the aqueous composition both physically and chemically. These optional
components should generally not impair the stability, aesthetics or performance of the
product. Concentrations of such optional components typically range from about 0.001%
to about 10% by weight of the shampoo compositions.
Such conventional optional ingredients are well known to those skilled in the art and may
be selected from the group comprising but not restricted to preservatives such as benzyl
alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea,
methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone; thickeners and viscosity
modifiers such as coconut ethanolamide, sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium
sulfate, carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, polyvinylalcohol, and ethyl alcohol;
perfumes; dyes, sequestering agents such as disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate; pH
adjusting agents such as citric acid, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide,
sodium carbonate, etc. and a foam booster such as lauric diethanolamide.
Water is used as an aqueous carrier in the present invention. It helps in producing
optimum viscosity to the product. The hydrating shampoo compositions of the present
invention are aqueous systems which comprise from about 27% to about 94.5%,
preferably from about 55% to about 85%, more preferably from about 60% to about 75%,
of water by weight of the shampoo composition.
In a preferred embodiment the invention discloses an aqueous shampoo cum conditioning
cum moisturizing composition comprising at least one surfactant, at least one
conditioning system of the instant invention and at least one moisturizing system of the
instant invention with conventional ingredients.
Specific and non-limiting examples of the instant invention are disclosed herewith. Other
variations as may be obvious to one skilled in the art may be made in compounds,
compositions, and methods described herein without departing from the essential features
of the invention. These and such others may be considered illustrative and non restrictive
to the scope of the present invention
Example 1
The composition of the present invention was mixed with surfactants to form the
exemplary conditioning shampoo formulations. The data are presented herewith in Table
1. Diferent formulations A, B and C were formed where formulation A lacked the
moisturizing system, formulation B lacked the conditioning system while formulation C
had all components.
Table 1:

As per Table 1 formulation A comprises a conditioning system comprising
polyquaternium 7 and dimethiconol microemulsion. Formulation B comprises a
moisturizing system comprising glycine, wheat protein, D-panthenol and panthenyl ethyl
ether. Formulation C contains a combination of the moisturizing system and the
conditioning system contained in formulations A and B. Additionally surfactants,
preservatives, perfumes, colourants, pH adjusting agents are added to make up an
aqueous shampoo composition.
A. Sensory Evaluation using ASTM Method
Sensory and in-vitro evaluations were conducted on formulations A, B and C as per
ASTM procedure. The methodology adopted for sensory evaluation is based on ASTM
procedure E2082-00-Standard Guide for descriptive analysis of shampoo performance
(Sections 9.3, 9.4 and 9.5.). The observations are presented as follows in Table 2.

Based on the observations stated in Table 2 it can be inferred that 'Composition C gives
optimum hair conditioning and hydration.
Further tests were conducted to examine the synergism amongst the constituents of the
moisturizing system. Four different compositions each lacking in at least one of the
essential components out of glycine (amino acid), panthenol (vitamin), wheat protein
(amino acid derivative) and ethyl panthenol (vitamin derivative) were prepared. The
moisturizing and conditioning efficacies of each of the four compositions was compared
with that of a composition comprising all four essential components. The methodology
adopted for sensory evaluation is based on ASTM standards. The observations are stated
herewith in Table 3.

Based on the observations stated in Table 3 it can be inferred that an enhanced
moisturizing effect is obtained only when the moisturizing system of the composition is
intact. In other words all the components of the moisturizing system act synergistically
and are essential to bring about the required moisturizing effect.
B. In-vitro Test Results
Further to the sensory tests, in vitro tests were conducted to evaluate and to further
quantify the sensory data for formulation C. Measurements were carried out on hair
tresses. The parameters measured were hair miniaturization, hair manageability (a
measure of conditioning) and hair luster (measure of shine).
Manageability
In this study Formulation C was evaluated for improvement in combing forces as
compared to a control shampoo, five 1.33" Indian hair tresses (8"long) were used for
each product. To damage the tresses slightly, all were subjected to mild bleaching and
mild perming. The tresses were then combed 15 times using Instron™ with a double
comb attachment for control measurements. The tresses were then treated to the shampoo
regimen consisting of 0.5mL shampoo/g hair applied to each tress. The shampoo was
massaged in for 1 min and then rinsed for lmin in warm tap water (~37°C). Each tress
was then blow dried (medium heat, 3min). The tresses were then allowed to condition
overnight at 21°C and 67% RH. Combing of the tresses was then repeated to determine
the change in combing forces as a result product application. Formulation C showed a
reduction in combing force in first and mid sections by 10% and 14% respectively,
demonstrating that this formulation significantly improves combability, thus enhancing
hair manageability significantly.
Moisturization
Mapping the moisture sorption/desorption behavior of a hair sample (weighing about 20-
30 mg) as a result of a formulation allows one to quantitatively measure moisturisation
benefit on hair. Hair samples are mapped as it is exposed to various programmed target
relative humidity. The hysteresis in the sorption/desorption process will be to handle the
moisturizing ability of the formulation. A larger value than the control for the treated
sample is considered as the criterion for good product performance. Formulation C was
subjected to this test.
Product treatment consisted of applying 0.5 g of the product per gram of wet Indian hair,
kneading gently for a minute and rinsing for a minute in running tepid water (~37°C).
This was followed by gentle blow drying (medium heat, 1 min) and further air drying in a
conditioning room.
It was observed that Formulation C enhanced the hair moisturization by 30% particularly
at relatively low (dry) ambient humidities, where the need for hair hydration is even more
critical.
Luster
For this experiment, Formulation C was analyzed for its effect on hair fiber luster.
A two inches wide Indian hair tress was comb damaged using a Hair Mechanical
Comber.
After the combing damage was completed, 35 fibers were removed and rinsed with warm
tap water for the control. The tress was then split in half. One half was treated with
Formulation C and the other half was left untreated. The shampoo protocol was 0.5 ml
shampoo/g hair massaged into the tress for 1 min and then rinse in warm tap water for 1
min. The tresses were then left to air dry and condition overnight at 21 °C and 65% RH.
For luster analysis, 35 fibers were measured from each sample tress using a
goniophotometer.
The result obtained showed a 20% improvement in hair luster as compared to untreated
hair fibres, thus demonstrating the imparting of hair shine.
Example 2
Sodium Laureth -2 EO- Sulphate (28%), 10.00 - 50.00 w/w%; Cocoamidopropyl Betain
(29%), 3.00 - 10.00w/w%; Laureth - 3, 0.50 - 5.00w/w%; PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl
Tetrasterate, 0.01 - 2.00w/w%; PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, 0.05 - 3.00w/w%;
Polyquaternium 7, 0.10 - 5.00w/w%; Dimethiconol microemulsion, 0.01 - 5.00w/w%;
Wheat Protein, 0.01 - 3.00w/w%; Glycine, 0.01 - 5.00w/w%; D panthenol, 0.05 -
2.00w/w%; Ethyl Panthenol, 0.05 - 2.00w/w%; Preservative 1, 0.01 -2.00w/w%;
Preservative 2, 0.01 -2.00w/w%; Sequestering agent, 0.01 - 2.00w/w%; Colourant, 0.00
- 0.50w/w%; Sodium Hydroxide (10% soln.), 0.00 - 2.00w/w%; Sodium Chloride ,0.10
- 5.00w/w%; Citric Acid , 0.00 - 1.00w/w%; D M water, q.s. to 100%.
Example 3
Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 14%w/w; Laureth-3, l%w/w; Cocamidopropylbetaine, 2%w/w;
Polyquaternium 7, 0.40w/w; Dimethiconol microemulsion, 0.50w/w; Wheat-'Protein,
0.20w/w; Glycine, 0.05w/w; D panthenol, O.lOw/w; Ethyl Panthenol, 0.05w/w;
Preservative, perfume, colour, pH adjusting agent, q.s.w/w; Water, q.s. to 100%.
Process for preparation:
A homogenous solution of surfactant is made in water under continuous stirring. When
the solution becomes homogenous Polyquaternium 7, Dimethiconol microemulsion,
Wheat Protein, Glycine, D panthenol, Ethyl Panthenol, CAPB, colourants are added one
at a time under continuous stirring. Thereafter preservative and perfume are added under
continuous stirring at temperatures below 40°C. Viscosity and pH are adjusted using
Sodium Chloride and OPA/Citric acid/ NaoH respectively to obtain the final
composition.
Although the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments, this
description is not meant to be construed in a limiting sense. Various modifications of the
disclosed embodiments, as well as alternate embodiments of the invention, will become
apparent to persons skilled in the art, upon reference to the description of the invention. It
is therefore contemplated that such modifications can be made without departing from the
spirit or scope of the present invention as defined.
We claim:
1. An aqueous composition comprising:
a) at least one moisturizing system comprising at least one amino acid and
derivative thereof, at least one vitamin and derivative thereof; and
b) at least one conditioning system comprising polyquaternium 7 and
microemulsified dimethiconol.
2. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one amino acid is
selected from alanine, cysteine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, phenylalanine,
glycine, histidine, isoleucine, lysine, leucine, methionine, asparagine, pyrrolysine,
proline, glutamine, arginine, serine, threonine, selenocysteine, valine, tryptophan,
tyrosine and combinations thereof.
3. The aqueous composition of claim 1 comprising from about 0.0001 % by weight
to about 10 %, preferably 0.001 % by weight to about 1 % by weight of the at
least one amino acid.
4. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one amino acid is
glycine.
5. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one amino acid
derivative is selected from proteins, quaternised proteins, peptides, polypeptides,
methyl amino acids, polyaminoacids and combinations thereof.
6. The aqueous composition of claim 5 wherein the protein is selected from plant
protein, animal protein and combinations thereof.
7. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one amino acid
derivative is wheat protein.
8. The aqueous composition of claim 1 comprising from about 0.0001% by weight
to about 15%, preferably from about 0.001% by weight to about 5% by weight by
weight of the at least one amino acid derivative.
9. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one vitamin is selected
from vitamin A, vitamin A, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, pyridoxine, biotin.
Vitamin B9, folic acid, cobalamin, Vitamin B8, panthenol, vitamin C, vitamin D,
vitamin E, vitamin K and combinations thereof.
10. The aqueous composition of claim 1 comprising from about 0.0001% by weight
to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.001 % by weight to about 1% by
weight of the at least one vitamin.
11. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one vitamin is panthenol.
12. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one vitamin derivative is
selected from the group comprising panthenyl ethyl ether, panthenyl alcohol,
retinoids, nicotinic acid and nicotinamide, ascorbates, vitamin extracts and
combinations thereof.
13. The aqueous composition of claim 1 comprising from about 0.0001 % by weight
to about 10 % by weight, preferably from about 0.001 % by weight to about 1 %
by weight of the at least one vitamin derivative.
14. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the at least one vitamin derivative is
panthenyl ethyl ether.
15. The aqueous composition of claim 1 comprising from about 0.001 % by weight
to about 15 % by weight, preferably from about 0.01 % by weight to about 5 %
by weight of microemulsified dimethiconol.
16. The aqueous composition of claim 1 comprising of microemulsified dimethiconol.
17. The aqueous composition of claim 1 comprising from about 0.001 % by weight
to about 15 % by weight, preferably from about 0.01 % by weight to about 5 %
by weight of polyquaternium 7.
18. The composition of claim 1 further comprising at least one surfactant and
optionally comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one preservative, at
least one thickener, at least one viscosity modifying agent, at least one perfume, at
least one dye, at least one sequestering agent, at least one pH adjusting agent, at
least one foam booster.
19. The aqueous composition of claim 18 comprising from about 5 % by weight to
about 25 % by weight of surfactants.
20. The aqueous composition of claim 18 comprising from about 0.001 % by weight
to about 10 % by weight of optional ingredients.
21. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the composition is a shampoo
composition.
22. The aqueous composition of claim 1 wherein the composition is a hair care
composition.
23. A process for preparation of the shampoo composition of claim 21 comprising:
a. adding surfactant to water to form a homogenous solution;
b. adding the at least one conditioning system and the at least one
moisturizing system to mixture of step a;
c. adding preservative and perfume; and
d. adjusting viscosity and pH to obtain the shampoo composition.
24. The aqueous composition substantially as herein before described and illustrated
with reference to accompanying examples or tables.

The present invention discloses an aqueous composition comprising at least one
moisturizing system comprising at least one amino acid, derivative thereof, at least one
vitamin, derivative thereof and at least one conditioning system comprising
polyquaternium 7 and microemulsified dimethiconol for use in hair wash or conditioning
composition.