The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular
a cleansing composition preferably for the face .
BACKGROUND ART
Cleansing the skin is very important for caring for the face. It must
be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as excess
sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily, and make-up
products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin
folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance
of spots.
Several types of skin cleansing products, for example, rinsable
cleansing anhydrous oils and gels, and foaming creams, lotions and
gels, are known.
Rinsable anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing action by virtue
of oils present in these formulations. These oils make it possible
to dissolve fatty residues and to disperse make-up pigments. These
products are effective and well tolerated. However, they exhibit the
disadvantage of being heavy, of not foaming and of not conferring
a feeling of freshness on application, which is disadvantageous from
a cosmetic viewpoint .
On the other hand, foaming creams, lotions and gels have a cleansing
action by virtue of the surfactants, which suspend the fatty residues
and the pigments of, for example, the make-up products. They are
effective and pleasant to use because they foam and because they are
easy to remove.
Recently, cleansing products, in particular facial cleansing
compositions, are expected to have not only cleansing effects and
foaming ability but also leaving good feeling on the skin after use,
such as refreshing, smoothing and moisturizing sensation and natural
feeling.
Therefore, in order to obtain good feeling on the skin after use,
the following technologies are in use:
- Use of a combination of an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric
surfactant, as disclosed in JP-A-2004-35524 ; and
- Use of an additional ingredient, e.g. , an oil or a cationic polymer,
such as cationized cellulose and diallyl quaternary ammonium salt
polymer or diallyl quaternary ammonium salt/acrylamide copolymer,
as disclosed in JP-A-2001-64 678 .
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
However, the cleansing products using the above technologies have
been unsatisfactory obtaining good foamability and good feeling of
the skin after use. They still have certain disadvantages of skin
feeling during and after use, as well as slow lather speed, a poor
volume of foam, a stretched feeling, a squeaky feeling, an unnatural
feeling (filmy feeling, feeling something remaining on the skin or
the like) .
Thus, cleansing products which have both good foamability and good
feeling of the skin after use are desired.
An objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic
composition, in particular a cleansing composition, which have good
foamability and good feeling of the skin after use.
The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a
cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) lauric acid;
(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid;
(c) at least one anionic surfactant;
(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and
(e) at least one cationic polymer,
wherein
the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ((a) lauric acid+(b) at least
one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is 0.15 or less, preferably
0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.10 or less.
It is preferable that the amount of (a) lauric acid be 0.1 to 5% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is preferable that (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric
acid be selected from C13-18 fatty acids, preferably C13-18 saturated
fatty acids.
It is preferable that the amount of (b) at least one fatty acid other
than lauric acid be 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
It is preferable that (c) at least one anionic surfactant is selected
from the group consisting of anionic derivatives of proteins of
vegetable origin or of silk proteins, carboxylates, amino acid
derivatives, alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, sulfonates,
isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulf oacetates,
phosphates, alkylphosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of
alkylpolyglucosides, and mixtures thereof. The amino acid
derivatives may be acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives.
It is preferable that the amount of (c) at least one anionic surfactant
be 0 .1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
It is preferable that (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant be
selected from the group consisting of betaines,
amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, amine oxides, and mixtures
thereof. -
It is preferable that (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant be
selected from amine oxides.
It is preferable that the amount of (d) at least one amphoteric
surfactant be 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
It is preferable that (e) at least one cationic polymer is a
polyquaternium polymer.
It is preferable that the amount of (e) at least one cationic polymer
be 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the
present invention further comprise (f) at least one
alkylpolyglycerylether .
In the above preferable embodiment, the amount of (f) at least one
alkylpolyglycerylether may be 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the
present invention be a cleansing composition, in particular a
cleansing composition for the face.
The present invention also relates to a process for cleaning the skin,
scalp and/or hair, in particular the face, wherein the cosmetic
composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin,
to the scalp and/or to the hair, in particular to the face.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The inventors performed diligent research, and found that a
combination of specific substances can provide a cosmetic composition,
in particular, a cleansing composition, with good foamability and
good feeling of the skin after use.
Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention
is characterized by comprising:
(a) lauric acid;
(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid;
(c) at least one anionic surfactant;
(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and
(e) at least one cationic polymer,
wherein
the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ((a) lauric acid+(b) at least
one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is 0.15 or less, preferably
0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.10 or less.
Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition according to the present
invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
(a) Lauric Acid
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises
lauric acid. The lauric acid may be in the form of a free acid or
in the form of a salt thereof. As a salt of lauric acid, mention may
be made of an inorganic salt such as an alkali metal salt (a sodium
salt, a potassium salt, or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt
(a magnesium salt, a calcium salt, or the like) ; and an organic salt
such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like)
and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt, or
the like) . It is preferable that at least a part (preferably at least
80%, and more preferably 90%) , in particular all, of the lauric acid
be in the form of a free acid.
Lauric acid can provide the cosmetic composition according to the
present invention with a property which can rapidly foam.
The amount of lauric acid in the cosmetic composition according to
the present invention is not limited, but the amount of lauric acid
may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 1 to 4%, and more preferably 2 to 4%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(b) Fatty Acid Other Than Lauric Acid
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises
at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid. Two or more fatty
acids may be used. Thus, a single type of fatty acid or a combination
of different type of fatty acids may be used.
A fatty acid here means an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, preferably
an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid having a long carbon chain. It is
preferable that the fatty acid have at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably
7 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 carbon atoms. The fatty acid
may preferably comprise up to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably
up to 20 carbon atoms. The fatty acid is not limited as long as it
is not lauric acid.
The fatty acid may b e selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear
or branched fatty acids . A s the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty
acids, mono-unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids or
polyunsaturated, linear -or branched fatty acids may b e used. A s the
unsaturated moiety of the unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids ,
a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond may b e
mentioned.
A s the fatty acid other than lauric acid, for example, a C -n, 13-28
saturated, linear or branched fatty acid may be used. A s the Cs-n, 13-28
saturated, linear or branched fatty acids other than lauric acid,
mention may b e made of caprylic acid (C ), pelargonic acid (Cg) , capric
acid (Cio) , myristic acid (C14) , pentadecanoic acid (C15) , palmitic
acid (C 1 , heptadecanoic acid (C17) , stearic acid (Ci ), nonadecanoic
acid (C19) , arachidic acid (C20) , behenic acid (C22) r d lignoceric
acid (C24) .
On the other hand, as the fatty acid other than lauric acid, for example,
a C8 -28 unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acid may also b e used.
A s the C8-28 unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, mention may
b e made of palmitoleic acid (C ), oleic acid (Ci8), linoleic acid (Ci8),
linolenic acid (Ci ), arachidonic acid (C20) d nervonic acid (C24) ·
It is preferable that the fatty acid be selected from C i3_i fatty acids,
preferably C i3-i saturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus,
preferable fatty acids other than lauric acid are myristic acid,
pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, and stearic
acid. Myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid are more
preferable.
The fatty acid other than lauric acid may be in the form o f a free
acid or in the form of a salt thereof. A s a salt o f the fatty acid
other than lauric acid, mention may b e made o f an inorganic salt such
a s an alkali metal salt (a sodium salt, a potassium salt, or the like)
and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt, a calcium salt,
or the like) ; and an organic salt such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary
ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt,
a triethylamine salt, or the like) . A single type o f fatty acid salt
or a combination of different type of fatty acid salts may b e used.
Further, a combination of one or more fatty acid in the form o f a
free acid and one or more fatty acid in the form of a salt may b e
used, in which one or more type of salts may also b e used. It is
preferable that at least a part (preferably at least 80%, and more
preferably 90%) , in particular all, of the fatty acid other than lauric
acid be in the form of a free acid.
The amount of fatty acid other than lauric acid in the cosmetic
composition according to the present invention is not limited, but
the amount of the fatty acid may be 10 to 40%, preferably 15 to 35%,
and more preferably 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
According to the present invention, the weight ratio of (a) lauric
acid/ ((a) lauric acid+ (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric
acid) is 0.15 or less, preferably 0.12 or less, and more preferably
0.10 or less. If the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ((a) lauric
acid+(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is more than
0 .15, the skin feeling after use of the cosmetic composition according
to the present invention may be impaired.
(c) Anionic Surfactant
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises
at least one anionic surfactant. Two or more anionic surfactants may
be u se d . Thus, a single type of anionic surfactant or a combination
of different type of anionic surfactants may be used.
The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic
derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin or of silk proteins,
phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates,
amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates,
sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates ,
polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides, and their
mixtures .
1 ) Anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin are protein
hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, it being possible for
the said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein
or to be added by reaction of the protein and/or of. the protein
hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of
vegetable origin or derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group can
in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising
from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may more particularly be made,
as anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin, of apple,
wheat, soybean or oat protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain
having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and their salts. The alkyl chain
can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium,
potassium and/or ammonium salt.
Thus, mention may be made, as protein hydrolysates comprising a
hydrophobic group, for example, of salts of protein hydrolysates where
the protein is a silk protein modified by lauric acid, such as the
product sold under the name Kawa Silk by Kawaken; salts of protein
hydrolysates where the protein is a wheat protein modified by lauric
acid, such as the potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam OR
by Croda (CTFA name: potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids) and the
sodium salt sold under the name Proteol L 30 by Seppic (CTFA name:
sodium lauroyl wheat amino acids) ; salts of protein hydrolysates where
the protein is an oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having from
10 to 22 carbon atoms and more especially salts of protein hydrolysates
where the protein is an oat protein modified by lauric acid, such
as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous
solution) by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl oat amino acids); or
salts of apple protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having
from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the sodium salt sold under the
name Proteol APL (30% aqueous/glycol solution) by Seppic (CTFA name:
sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) . Mention may also be made of the
mixture of lauroyl amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine,
alanine) neutralized with sodium N-methylglycinate sold under the
name Proteol SAV 50 S by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl amino acids) .
2 ) Mention may be made, as phosphates and alkyl phosphates , for example,
of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl
monophosphate, sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, the
potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, the mixture of mono- and diesters
(predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis,
the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the
name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of
EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name
Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium or
triethanolamine salt of mono (C 2-Ci3)alkyl phosphate, sold under the
references Arlatone MAP 230K-40® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60®by Uniqema,
potassium lauryl phosphate, sold under the name Dermalcare MAP
XC-99/09® by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate, sold under
the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema.
3 ) Mention may be made, as carboxylates , of :
- amido ether carboxylates (AEC) , such as sodium lauryl amido ether
carboxylate (3 EO) , sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao
Chemicals;
- polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated
( EO) sodium lauryl. ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C 2-Ci -Ci ), sold
under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated
and carboxymethylated fatty acids originating from olive oil, sold
under the name Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated
(6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Nikkol
ECTD-6NEX® by Nikkol; and
- salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a Cs to C22 alkyl chain which
are neutralized with an organic or inorganic base, such as potassium
hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine,
lysine and arginine.
4 ) Mention may in particular be made, as amino acid derivatives, of
alkali salts of amino acids, such as:
- sarcosinates , such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the
name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by
Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol
Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under
the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol;
- alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold
under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under
the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine
N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by
Kawaken;
- glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate,- so d
under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine
lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by
A jinomoto ;
- aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl
aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the
name Asparack® by Mitsubishi;
- glycine derivatives (glycinates) , such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate,
sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Ami lite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto;
- citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol)
coco alcohols, sold under the name Witconol EC 112 9 by Goldschmidt;
and
- galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate, sold
by Soliance.
5 ) Mention may be made, as sulphosuccinates, for example, of
oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl (70/30 Ci2/Ci ) alcohol
monosulphosuccinate, sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and
Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a
hemisulphosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin
F Special Paste® by Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium
oleamidosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by
Cognis, oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate, sold
under the name Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of
oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate, sold
under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by Witco, or ricinoleic
monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewoderm
S 1333® by Witco. Use may also be made of polydimethylsiloxane
sulphosuccinates, such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone
sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by Maclntyre.
6 ) Mention may be made, as alkyl sulphates, for example, of
triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulphate) ,
such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol TL4 0 FL
or the product sold by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, which
products are at 40% in aqueous solution. Mention may also be made
of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium lauryl sulphate) ,
such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL,
which is at 30% in aqueous solution.
7 ) Mention may be made, as alkyl ether sulphates, for example, of
sodium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate),
such as that sold under the names Texapon N 40 and Texapon AOS 225
UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium
laureth sulphate) , such as that sold under the name Standapol EA-2
by Cognis.
8 ) Mention may be made, as sulphonates, for example, of
o i-olef insulphonates, such as sodium -olefinsulphonate (Ci 4 -Ci ) ,
sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40® by Stepan, sold under the names
Witconate AOS Protege® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by Witco or sold
under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium
olef insulphonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by Clariant;
or linear alkylarylsulphonates , such as sodium xylenesulphonate,
sold under the names Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol
SXS93® by Manro.
9 ) Mention may be made, as isethionates, of acylisethionates, such
as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name
Jordapon CI P® by Jordan.
10) Mention may be made, as taurates, of the sodium salt of palm kernel
oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant;
N-acyl-N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate,
sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the
name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate,
sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol.
11) The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides can in particular
be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol
ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for
example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) tartaric
ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, the disodium
salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) sulphosuccinic ester, sold under
the name Essai 512 MP® by Seppic, or the sodium salt of
cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) citric ester, sold under the name Eucarol
AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia.
It is preferable that the amino acid derivatives be acyl glycine
derivatives or glycine derivatives, in particular acyl glycine salt.
The acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives can be chosen
from acyl glycine salts (or acyl glycinates) or glycine salts (or
glycinates), and in particular from the following.
i ) Acyl glycinates of formula (I) :
in which
- R represents an acyl group R'C=0, with R ' , which represents a
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain,
preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from
12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and better
still from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and
- X represents a cation chosen, for example, from the ions of alkali
metals, such as Na, Li or K , preferably Na or K , the ions of alkaline
earth metals, such as Mg, ammonium groups and their mixtures.
The acyl group can in particular be chosen from the lauroyl, myristoyl,
behenoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or
oleoyl groups and their mixtures.
Preferably, R is a cocoyl group.
ii) Glycinates of following formula (II):
in which:
- R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
hydrocarbon chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably
from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms;
R i is advantageously chosen from the lauryl, myristyl, palmityl,
stearyl, cetyl, cetearyl or oleyl groups and their mixtures and
preferably from the stearyl and oleyl groups,
- the R2 groups, which are identical or different, represent an R"OH
group, R" being an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms,
preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
Mention may be made, as compound of formula (I), for example, of the
compounds carrying the INCI name sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as,
for example, Amilite GCS-12, sold by Ajinomoto, or potassium cocoyl
glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCK-12 from Ajinomoto.
Use may be made, as compounds of formula (II) , of dihydroxyethyl oleyl
glycinate or dihydroxyethyl stearyl glycinate.
The amount of anionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition according
to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the anionic
surfactant may be 0 .1 to 5% , preferably 0.3 to 3% , and more preferably
0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(d) Amphoteric Surfactant
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises
at least one amphoteric surfactant. Two or more amphoteric
surfactants may be used. Thus, a single type of amphoteric surfactant
or a combination of different types of amphoteric surfactants may
be used.
The amphoteric surfactant is not limited. The amphoteric or
zwitterionic surfactants can be, for example (non-limiting list) ,
amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and
optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic
radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms
and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for
example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or
phosphonate) .
A s preferable amohoteric surfactants, mention may be made of betaines,
amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, amine oxides, and mixtures
thereof.
The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from
the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines,
sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines , and alkylamidoalkylsulf obetaines,
in particular, (C8 -C24 )alkylbetaines ,
8-C24) alkylamido (Ci~C )alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and
(C 8-C 2 )alkylamido (Ci-C )alkylsulphobetaines . In one embodiment, the
amphoteric surfactants of betaine type are chosen from
(C8-C24) alkylbetaines, (C8-C24) alkylamido (Ci-Ce) alkylsulphobetaines,
sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.
Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds
classified in the CTFA dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names
cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine,
coco/oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine,
palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine,
cocamidoethylbetaine , cocamidopropylhydroxy suit aine ,
oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine,
laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone or as mixtures.
The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an alkylbetaine
and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and
cocamidopropylbetaine .
Among the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, mention may be made
of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in U.S.
Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA
dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are
incorporated herein by reference) , under the names
Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the
respective structures:
R -CONHCH 2CH2-N+ (R ) (R ) (CH2COO )
in which:
Ra denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ra-COOH present in hydrolysed
coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,
R denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc denotes a carboxymethyl group; and
R '-CONHCH2CH2-N (B ) (C )
in which:
B represents -CH2CH2OX',
C represents -(CH 2) -Y', with z=l or 2 ,
X ' denotes a -CH2CH2-COOH group, -CH2-COOZ' , -CH2CH2-COOH,
-CH2CH2-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom,
Y ' denotes -C00H, -COOZ' , -CH2-CHOH-S0 3Z ' or a -CH2-CHOH-S0 3H radical,
Z ' represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as
sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion issued from an organic amine, and
Ra ' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R '-C00H present in coconut
oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as a C7, Cg,
C or C13 alkyl radical, a C i alkyl radical and its iso form, or an
unsaturated C i radical.
It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from
(C -C2 )-alkyl amphomonoacetates, (Cs-C24)alkyl amphodiacetates ,
(C8 -C24) alkyl amphomonopropionates , and (Ce-C2 )alkyl
amphodipropionates .
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition,
1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium
Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium
Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium
Lauroamphopropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium
Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid and
Cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, m ention ay be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold
under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia
Chinaie .
It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from amine
oxides such as (C 0-Ci )alkylamine oxides or
N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, e.g., lauramine oxide. For
example, AMINOXID LO from Evonik Goldschmidt may be used as lauramine
oxide .
The amount of amphoteric surfactant in the cosmetic composition
according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount
of the amphoteric surfactant may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.3 to 3%,
and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
(e) Cationic Polymer
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises
at least one cationic polymer. Two or more cationic polymers may be
used. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of
different type of cationic polymers may be used.
It should be noted that, for the purposes of the present invention,
the term "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic
groups and/or groups that may be ionized into cationic groups.
Such polymers may be chosen from those already known per se as
improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, i.e., especially those
described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents
FR-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
The cationic polymers that are preferred are chosen from those
containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or
quaternary amine groups, which may either form part of the main polymer
chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.
The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular
mass of between approximately 500 and approximately 5*10 6 and
preferably between approximately 103 and approximately 3*10 6 .
Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly
are polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary
ammonium type .
These are known products. They are described in particular in French
patents Nos 2 505 348 and 2 542 997. Among the said polymers,
mention may be made of the following.
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic
esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formula
(I), low :
in which
R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or
a CH3 radical;
A , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched
alkyl group of 1 to carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms,
or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R , R5 and R , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl
group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and
preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to carbon atoms;
R and R2 , which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen
or an alkyl group containing from 1 to carbon atoms, and preferably
methyl or ethyl; and
X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such
as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units derived
from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides,
methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and
methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (Ci-C ) alkyls,
acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such
as vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl-caprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such
as the product sold under the name Hereof loc by the company Hercules,
- the copolymers of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for
example, in patent application EP-A-080 97 6 and sold under the name
Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the
name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl
acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under
the name "Gafquat" by the company ISP, for instance "Gafquat 734"
or "Gafquat 755", or alternatively the products known as
"Copolymer 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail
in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
- dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers , such
as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
and
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers
sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP, and quaternized
vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers
such as the product sold under the name "Gafquat HS 100" by the company
ISP.
(2) The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium
groups, which are described in French patent 1 492 597, and in
particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125,
JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide
Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary
as hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammoniums that have reacted with
an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as the copolymers of cellulose
or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary
ammonium monomer, described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such
as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-,
hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a
methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium
or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more
particularly the products sold under the name Celquat L 200 and Celquat
H 100 by the company National Starch.
(4) The cationic guar gums described more particularly in patents
US 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums containing
trialkylammonium cationic groups. Use is made, for example, of guar
gums modified with a salt (e.g., chloride) of
2 ,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium. Such products are sold
especially under the trade names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17
and Jaguar C162 by the company Meyhall.
(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene
or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains,
optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by
aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or
quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are
described, in particular, in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
(6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by
polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these
polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide,
a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated
derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a
bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an
oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which
is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a
bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a
diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent
being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine
group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated
or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can
be quaternized. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French
patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
(7) The polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation
of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by
alkylation with difunctional agents .Mention may be made, for example,
of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers
in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and
preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are
described in particular in French patent 1 583 363.
Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of
the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine
polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F , F4 or F8" by the company
Sandoz.
(8) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine
containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine
group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and
saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms .
The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the
dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyamino amide
resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio
of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the
polyamino amide of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Such polymers are
described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961 347.
Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name
"Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under
the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the
case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium,
such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as a main
constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (V) or (VI) :
in which formulae
k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ; R denotes
a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R and R , independently of each
other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to carbon atoms, a
hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5
carbon atoms, a lower (C1 -C4) amidoalkyl group, or R and R can denote,
together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached,
heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R and ,
independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having
from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride,
acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate
or phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French
patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.
Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more
particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer
sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its
homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers
of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under
the name "Merquat 550".
(10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating units
corresponding to the formula:
in which formula (VII) : -
io 2 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent
aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to
20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or
alternatively o, Rn, R12 d Ri3 , together or separately, constitute,
with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles
optionally containing a second hetero atom other than nitrogen, or
alternatively R , R , R12 and R 3 represent a linear or branched Ci-C
alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group
or a group -CO-O-R14-D or -CO-NH-R 4-D where R14 is an alkylene and
D is a quaternary ammonium group;
A i and B represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon
atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and
which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one
or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or
sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl,
quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;
Ai, Rio and R i2 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they
are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A denotes a linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene
radical, B i can also denote a group - (CH2) -CO-D-OC- (CH2) - in which
D denotes:
i ) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-0-, where Z denotes a linear
or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to
one of the following formulae:
- (CH2-CH2-0 ) -CH2 -CH2- ; and
- [CH2-CH (CH3)-0] -CH2-CH (CH3)-
where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4 , representing a defined
and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4
representing an average degree of polymerization;
ii) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
iii) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y
denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or
alternatively the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH 2-CH2- ; or
iv) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH- .
Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
'These polymers generally have a number-average molecular mass of
between 1000 and 100 000.
Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents
2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US
patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462,
2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904,
4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.
It is more particularly possible to use polymers that consist of
repeating units corresponding to the following formula (VIII) :
in which
o i 12 nd Ri3, which may be identical or different, denote an
alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
and X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid..
(11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers consisting of units of formula
(IX)
in which p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6 approximately, D
may be nothing or may represent a group - (C¾) ~C0- in which r denotes
a number equal to 4 or 7 , and
X~ is an anion.
Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described
in patents US 4 157 388, 4 702 906 and 4 719 282 . They are especially
described in patent application EP-A-122 324.
Among these polymers, examples that may be mentioned include the
products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZl" and "Mirapol
175" sold by the company Miranol.
(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole,
for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550
and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(13) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, which is given
under the reference name "Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine"
in the CTFA dictionary.
(14) Crosslinked methacryloyloxy (C1 - C 4) alkyltri (C1 - C 4) -
alkylammonium salt polymers such as the polymers obtained by
homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized
with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride,
the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with
a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, in particular
methylenebisacrylamide . A crosslinked
acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride
copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing
50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more
particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name "Salcare® SC 92"
by the company Allied Colloids. A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
chloride homopolymer containing
about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid
ester can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names
"Salcare® SC 95" and "Salcare® SC 96" by the company Allied Colloids .
(15) Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the
invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines,
polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units,
condensates of polyam ines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary
polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
It is preferable that the cationic polymer be a polyquaternium polymer
or a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt.
Polymeric quaternary ammonium salts are cationic polymers comprising
at least one quaternized nitrogen atom. Mention may in particular
be made, as polymeric quaternary ammonium salts, of the Polyquaternium
products (CTFA name) , which contribute mainly to the quality of foam
and the skin feeling after use, in particular the skin feeling after
use. These polymers can preferably be chosen from the following
polymers:
Polyquaternium-5, such as the product Merquat 5 sold by Calgon;
Polyquaternium-6, such as the product Salcare SC 30 sold by Ciba and
the product Merquat 100 sold by Calgon;
Polyquaternium-7 , such as the products Merquat S , Merquat 2200,
Merquat 7SPR, and Merquat 550 sold by Calgon and the product Salcare
SC 10 sold by Ciba;
Polyquaternium-10, such as the product Polymer JR400 sold by Amerchol;
Polyquaternium-11 , such as the products Gafquat 755, Gafquat 755N
and Gafquat 734 sold by ISP;
Polyquaternium-15, such as the product Rohagit KF 720 F sold by Rohm;
Polyquaternium-16, such as the products Luviquat FC905, Luviquat
FC370, Luviquat HM552 and Luviquat FC550 sold by BASF;
Polyquaternium-28, such as the product Styleze CC10 sold by ISP;
Polyquaternium-4 , such as the product Luviquat Care sold by BASF;
Polyquaternium-4 , such as the product Luviquat Hold sold by BASF;
and
Polyquaternium-4 7 , such as the product Merquat 2001 sold by Calgon.
Preferably, the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from
Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-4 7 and their
mixtures .
Preferably, the cationic polymer is chosen from alkyldiallylamine
or of dialkyldiallylammonium homopolymers or copolymers, and more
preferably from copolymers of acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium
chloride, as mentioned at paragraph (9) here above.
In particular, a cationic polymer, preferably with a molecular weight
of 2,000,000 to 3,000,000, having the following units
wherein
n ' and n" independently represents a positive integer, such as 1 to
1000000, preferably 1 to 100000, and more preferably 1 to 10000, and
the ratio n 'In" may be 50/50 to 10/90, preferably 50/50 to 20/80,
and more preferably 50/50 to 30/70.
The amount of cationic polymer in the cosmetic composition according
to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the cationic
polymer may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, and more preferably
0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(f) Alkylpolyglycerylether
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the
present invention comprise at least one alkylpolyglycerylether. Two
or more alkylpolyglycerylethers may be used. Thus, a single type of
alkylpolyglycerylether or a combination of different type of
alkylpolyglycerylethers may be used.
The alkylpolyglycerylether can contribute mainly to the skin feeling
after use.
The alkylpolyglycerylether can be selected from
a-monoalkylpolyglycerylether, a-monoalkenylpolyglycerylether and
a-monohydroxyalkylpolyglycerylether , represented by the following
formula:
wherein
R denotes a linear or branched, alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group,
preferably having 2-20, and more preferably 8-18 carbon atoms, and
more preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms; and
n denotes an integer from 2 to 10, and preferably an integer from
4 to 10, and more preferably an integer from 8 to 10.
As R , a linear or branched alkyl group is preferable. A s examples
of the linear or branched alkyl group, mention may be made of an octyl
group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group,
a tridecyl group, and a tetradecyl group.
The alkylpolyglycerylether may be prepared by reacting an aliphatic
alcohol with glycidol under the presence of a basic catalyst such
that the alcohol/glycidol molar ratio is controlled; by reacting a
polyglycerin with a-olefin epoxide; by ring-opening
alkylglycidylether with a polyglycerin; or the like.
A s examples of the alkylpolyglycerylether, mention may be made of
decaglycrin monooctyl ether, decaglycerin monodecyl ether,
decaglycerin monododecyl ether, decaglycerin monotetradecyl ether,
octaglycerin monooctyl ether, octaglycerin monodecyl ether,
octaglycerin monododecyl ether, octaglycerin monotetradecyl ether,
hexaglycrin monooctyl ether, hexaglycerin monodecyl ether,
hexaglycerin monododecyl ether, hexaglycerin monotetradecyl ether,
tetraglycrin monooctyl ether, tetraglycerin monodecyl ether,
tetraglycerin monododecyl ether, and tetraglycerin monotetradecyl
ether.
Preferable alkylpolyglycerylether are decaglycerin monododecyl
ether, octaglycerin monododecyl ether, hexaglycerin monododecy ether
and tetraglycerin monododecyl ether . In particular, Polyglyceryl-4
lauryl ether (e.g., SUNETEHER-4 from Taiyo Kagaku) may be more
preferable .
The amount of alkylpolyglycerylether in the cosmetic composition
according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount
of the alkylpolyglycerylether may be 1 to 20%, preferably 2 to 10%,
and more preferably 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
(g) Cosmetic Composition
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may
comprise at least one nonionic surfactant other than (f)
alkylpolyglycerylether . Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used.
Thus, a single type of nonionic surfactant or a combination of
different types of nonionic surfactants may be used.
The nonionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from:
- oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohols;
- oxyalkylenated alkylphenols in which the alkyl chain is of C8-Ci 8 ;
- oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty amides;
- oxyalkylenated plant oils;
- oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, in particular the
polyoxyethylenated derivatives of esters of glyceryl and of a fatty
acid and of their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated
glycerol esters may be chosen for example from hydrogenated and
oxyethylenated glyceryl esters of fatty acids such as PEG-200
hydrogenated glyceryl palmate marketed under the name Rewoderm LI-S
80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such
as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate marketed under the name Tegosoft GC by the
company Goldschmidt, and PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate marketed under the
name Rewoderm LI-63 by the company Goldschmidt; and mixtures thereof;
- optionally oxyalkylenated C6-C30 acid esters of sorbitan;
- optionally oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sucrose;
- oxyalkylenated sugar esters, in particular polyethylene glycol
ethers of fatty acid esters of sugars. These oxyalkylenated sugar
esters may be chosen for example from oxyethylenated glucose esters
such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed under the name
Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol;
- fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; and
- (C -C3o) alkylpolyglycosides (As alkyl polyglucosides, use is
preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from
to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 1 carbon atoms, and
containing a glucoside group preferably comprising 1 , 2 to 3 glucoside
units. The alkyl polyglucosides may e chosen for example from decyl
glucoside (C9/C11 alkyl polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product
marketed under the name Mydol 10® by the company Kao Chemicals or
the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by the company
Cognis; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under
the name Plantacare KE 3711® by the company Cognis; lauryl glucoside
such as the product marketed under the n-ame Plantacare 1200 UP® by
the company Cognis; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under
the name Plantacare 818 UP® by the company Cognis; caprylyl glucoside
such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by
the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof) ;
- N- (C6-C30) alkylglucamine derivatives;
- N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides;
- copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide; and
mixtures thereof.
More particularly, the mean number of oxyalkylene units is
advantageously between 2 and 150 units. Preferably, they are
oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or mixtures thereof.
A s regards the polyglycerolated surfactants, they preferably
comprise on average 1 to 20 and in particular 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups.
In accordance with one particularly advantageous embodiment of the
invention, the composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant
chosen from oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C -C3o alcohols.
The amount of nonionic surfactant in the cosmetic composition
according to the present invention is not limited, but the amount
of the nonionic surfactant may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.3 to 3%,
and more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may
comprise at least one amphoteric polymer. Two or more amphoteric
polymers may be used,. Thus, a single type of amphoteric polymer or
a combination of different type of amphoteric polymers may be used.
The amphoteric polymer may be chosen from polymers containing units
A and B randomly distributed in the polymer chain, in which A denotes
a unit derived from a monomer containing at least one basic nitrogen
atom and B denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer containing
one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or alternatively A and
B can denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of
carboxybetaines or of sulphobetaines; A and B can also denote a
cationic polymer chain containing primary, secondary, tertiary or
quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups
bears a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon
radical, or alternatively A and B form part of a chain of a polymer
containing an a ,b-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the
carboxylic groups has been reacted with a polyamine containing one
or more primary or secondary amine groups.
The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above
may be chosen from the following polymers.
(1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived
from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more
particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid or
a-chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a
substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such
as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate,
dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are
described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537.
(2) polymers derived from diallyldialkylammonium and from at least
one anionic monomer, such as polymers containing from about 60 to
about 99% by weight of units derived from a quaternary
diallyldialkylammonium monomer in which the alkyl groups are chosen,
independently, from alkyl groups having 1 to 18 carbon atoms and in
which the anion is derived from an acid having an ionization constant
of greater than 10-13 and 1 to 40% by weight of this polymer, of an
anionic monomer chosen from acrylic or methacrylic acid, the molecular
weight of this polymer being approximately between 50,000 and
10,000,000, determined by gel permeation chromatography. Such
polymers are described in patent application EP-A-269, 243 .
The polymers may be, inter alia, polymers containing alkyl groups
chosen from groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and more particularly
methyl and ethyl groups .
Among these polymers, copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
or of diethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylic acid are
particularly preferred. These polymers are sold, for example, under
the names "Merquat 280" and "Merquat 295" by the company Merck.
A terpolymer of dimethyldiallyammonium chloride/acrylic
acid/acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT PLUS 3330" by the company
Merck may also correspond to the amphoteric polymer.
(3) polymers containing units derived:
i ) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or
methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl radical,
ii) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive
carboxylic groups, and
iii) from at least one basic comonomer such as esters containing
primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of
acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and the quaternization product of
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulphate.
The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides may be groups in
which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more
particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide,
N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and
N-dodecylacrylamide, as well as the corresponding methacrylamides.
The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and
fumaric acid as well as monoesters of alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
of maleic or fumaric acid or anhydride.
The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl,
N , '-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates .
The copolymers whose CTFA name (4th edition, 1991) is
octylacrylamide/acrylates /butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer,
such as the products sold under the name Amphomer or Lovocryl 47 by
the company National Starch, are particularly used.
(4) partially or totally alkylated and crosslinked polyamino amides
derived from polyamino amides of general formula:
in which
Rio represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated
dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic mono- or dicarboxylic acid
containing an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol
having 1 to carbon atoms of these acids or from a radical derived
from the addition of any one of the said acids to a bis-primary or
bis-secondary amine, and Z denotes a radical of a bis-primary, monoor
bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents:
i ) in proportions of 0 to 100 mol % , the radicalwhere
x=2 and n=2 or 3 or alternatively x=3 and n=2 this radical being derived
from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetraamine or
dipropylenetriamine;
ii) in proportions of 0 to 40 mol % , the radical (III) above, in which
x=2 and n=l and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the radical
derived from piperazine:
iii) in proportions of 0 to 20 mol % , the radical -NH- (C¾) _ - derived
from hexamethylenediamine, these polyamino amides being crosslinked
by addition of a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from
epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated
derivatives, using from 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per
amine group of the polyamino amide and alkylated by the action of
acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone, or salts
thereof.
The saturated carboxylic acids may be chosen from acids having to
10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2 ,2 ,4-trimethyladipic acid,
2 , ,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid and acids containing
an ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid or itaconic acid. The alkane sultones used in the
alkylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone, and the
salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium
salts.
polymers containing zwitterionic units of formula
in which
R 2 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate,
methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, x and y represent
an integer from 1 to 3 , 3 and R represent hydrogen, methyl, ethyl
or propyl, R and R 6 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical
such that .the sum of the carbon atoms in R and does not exceed
10.
The polymers comprising such units can also contain units derived
from non-zwitterionic monomers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone,
dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, alkyl
acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl
acetate.
By way of example, mention may be made of the copolymer of methyl
methacrylate /methyl dimethylcarboxymethylaxmonioethyl
methacrylate .
(6) chitosan-derived polymers containing monomer units corresponding
to the following formulae:
the unit D being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the
unit E in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit F in proportions
of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit F , R i
represents a radical of formula:
in which if n=0, R17, R i and R , which may be identical or different,
each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino
residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue
optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally
substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or
sulphonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears
an amino residue, at least one of the radicals R17, Rie and R being,
in this case, a hydrogen atom; or if n=l, R 7 , R 8 and R 9 each represent
a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with
acids or bases.
(7) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such
as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan sold under the
name "Evalsan" by the company Jan Dekker.
(8) polymers corresponding to the general formula (V) , described in
French patent 1,400,366:
in which
R 0 represents a hydrogen atom or a CH3 0 , CH3 C¾ 0 or phenyl radical,
R21 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl,
R22 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl,
R23 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl or a radical
corresponding to the formula: -R24 -N (R22) 2 R 2 representing a -CH2 -CH2
- , -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH (CH3)- group, R22 having the meanings given
above, as well as the higher homologues of these radicals and
containing up to 6 carbon atoms.
(9) amphoteric polymers of the type -A-Z-A-Z, chosen from:
i ) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium
chloroacetate on compounds containing at least one unit of formula:
-A-Z-A-Z -A- (VI)
where
A denotes a radical
and Z denotes the symbol B or B', B and B', which may be identical
or different, denote a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical
with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms
in the main chain, unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups
and also being able to contain oxygen, nitrogen or sulphur atoms,
and 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings, the oxygen, nitrogen
and sulphur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether,
sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups,
and hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, guaternary ammonium, amide,
imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups,
ii) polymers of formula:
where
A denotes a radical
and Z denotes the symbol B or B ' and at least once B', B having the
meaning given above and B ' being a divalent radical which is an
alkylene radical containing a straight or branched chain having up
to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, unsubstituted or substituted
with one or more hydroxyl radicals and containing one or more nitrogen
atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain
optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily containing
one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and
betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium
chloroacetate .
(10) copolymers of (C1-C5) alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride
partially modified by semiamidif ication with an
N ,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N ,N-dimethylaminopropylamine, or
by semiesterif ication with an N,N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers
can also contain other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
In particular, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition
according to the present invention does not comprise an amphoteric
polyme represented by the following formula (1) :
wherein
R and R2 independently denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
and x , y and z independently denotes a positive integer.
The amount of amphoteric polymer in the cosmetic composition according
to the present invention is not limited, but the amount of the
amphoteric polymer may be 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.3 to 3%, and more
preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
On the other hand, the compositions of the invention can comprise
one or more adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic field selected
from the group consisting of cosmetic or dermatological active
principles, fragrances, preservatives, sequestering agents (EDTA) ,
pigments, pearlescent agents, inorganic or organic fillers, such as
talc, kaolin, silica powder or polyethylene powder, soluble dyes,
sunscreen agents and their mixtures.
The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used
in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
These adjuvants and their concentrations should be such that they
do not modify the property desired for the composition of the
invention.
Preferred active principles include anti-seborrheic and
anti-microbial active principles which make it possible in particular
to treat greasy skin.
This active principle can be chosen in particular from: b-lactam
derivatives, quinolone derivatives, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin,
tetracycline and its salts, erythromycin and its salts, amikacin and
its salts, 2,4,4' -trichloro-2 '-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan) ,
3 , , '-trichlorocarbanilide (triclocarban) , phenoxyethanol,
phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline and its salts,
capreomycin and its sa lt s , chlorhexidine and its salts,
chlorotetracyline and its salts, oxytetracycline and its salts,
clindamycin and its salts, ethambutol and its salts, hexamidine
isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, pentamidine and its salts,
gentamycin and its salts, kanamycin and its salts, lineomycin and
its salts, methacycline and its salts, methenamine and its salts,
minocycline and its salts, neomycin and its salts, netilmicin and
its salts, paromomycin and its salts, streptomycin and its salts,
tobramycin and its salts, miconazole and its salts, amantadine salts,
para-chloro-meta-xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, salicylic acid and
its salts, 5- (n-octanoyl) salicylic acid and its salts, benzoyl
peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid,
acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic
acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid,
lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, ibuprofen, naproxen,
hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol,
2,·4 ,4 '-trichloro-2 '-hydroxydip- henyl ether,
3,4, -trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride,
clotrimazole, oxtoxyglycerol, octanoylglycine, caprylylglycol,
10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, zinc salts, such as zinc gluconate,
niacinamide or vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP) , and their mixtures.
Use may also be made, in the composition of the invention, as active
principles, of any active principle commonly used in the cosmetic
and dermatological fields, such as, for example, water-soluble or
fat-soluble vitamins or provitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol) ,
vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B3 or PP (niacinamide) , vitamin
B (panthenol) , vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin Kl, b-carotene, and
the derivatives of these vitamins and in particular their esters;
steroids, such as DHEA and 7a-hydroxy-DHEA; moisturizing agents, such
as glycerol, hyaluronic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (PCA) and
its salts, sodium pidolate, serine, xylitol, trehalose, ectoin,
ceramides or urea; keratolytic and anti-ageing agents, such as
a-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, citric acid or lactic acid,
or b-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and its derivatives;
enzymes and coenzymes and in particular coenzyme Q10; sunscreen
agents; optical brighteners; slimming active principles, such as
caffeine, theophylline or theobromine; anti-inf lammatories, such as
18-p-glycyrrhetinic acid and ursolic acid, and their mixtures.
Use may be made of a mixture of two or more of these active principles.
The active principle or principles can, for example, be present in
a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0 .1 to 10%
and better still from 0 .5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention can constitute
in particular foaming creams for topical application used in
particular in the cosmetic field as products for cleaning or removing
make-up from the skin (body or face, including eyes), scalp and/or
hair. They can constitute more particularly a composition for
cleansing the skin, in particular a face.
Another subject-matter of the invention can be a cosmetic use of the
composition as defined above as products for cleaning and/or removing
makeup from the skin, scalp and/or hair, in particular from a face.
Another subject-matter of the invention is a cosmetic process for
cleaning the skin, scalp and/or hair, in particular a face, wherein
the composition of the invention is applied to the skin, to the scalp
and/or to the hair, in particular the face, preferably in the presence
of water and in that the foam foamed and the grime are removed by
rinsing with water.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be prepared
by mixing the above-described components with a conventional mixing
device. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention
can advantageously be prepared by using, for at least one stage of
the preparation process, a mixing device.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in more detail by way of
examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope
of the present invention.
Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4
The following cleansing compositions according to Examples 1 to 3
and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 , shown in Table 1 were prepared by
mixing the components shown in Table 1 . The numerical values for the
amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by
weight".
The following cleansing compositions were prepared as follows . First,
the components in Phase A in Table 1 were charged into a main container,
mixed at elevated temperature, and stirred to obtain a homogeneous
mixture. Second, the component in Phase B was added to the above
mixture, and stirred at elevated temperature. On the other hand, the
components in Phase C in Table 1 were charged into a separate container,
mixed at elevated temperature, and stirred to obtain a homogeneous
mixture. Next, the mixture in the separate container was added to
the mixture in the main container, and stirred. Then, the components
in Phases D to F were added to the container, mixed and stirred to
obtain a homogeneous mixture.
Table 1

The cleansing compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and
Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were subjected to evaluation test as
defined below.
[Evaluation Test]
Five panelists evaluated the cleansing compositions according to
Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 in terms of "speed
of making foam", "quantity of foam", "no tightness after rinsing"
and "natural moisturizing feeling after rinsing".
Each panelist took each sample into the palm of the hand, then worked
into a mousse with a little water, then applied to a face using circular
movements, finally rinsed off well to evaluate speed of making foam,
quantity of foam, no tightness after rinsing and natural moisturizing
feeling after rinsing for each sample, and graded from l(poor) to
5 (excellent) for each effect, which was then classified in the
following 4 categories based on the average of the grade: "excellent"
(5.0 to 4.0), "good" (3.9 to 3.0), "fair" (2.9 to 2.0), or "poor"
(1.9 to 1.0) .
The results of the evaluation test are shown in Table 2 .
Table 2

It was found that the cosmetic compositions according to Examples
1 to 3 corresponding to the present invention are superior to those
according to Comparative Examples 2 to 4 in which one of the essential
components in the cosmetic composition according to the present
invention is missing.
It was also found that the cosmetic compositions according to Examples
1 to 3 in which the weight ratio of lauric acid/ (stearic acid + myristic
acid + palmitic acid + lauric acid) is 0.15 or less are superior to
that according to Comparative Example 1 in which the corresponding
weight ratio is about 0.176 (more than 0.15) in terms of feeling to
use such as no tightness after rinsing and natural moisturizing
feeling after rinsing.
It was further found that the cosmetic compositions according to
Examples 2 and 3 which further comprise alkylpolyglycerylether such
as Polyglyceryl-4 lauryl ether are even superior to that according
to Example 1 which does not comprise alkylpolyglycerylether in terms
of skin feeling after use such as no tightness after rinsing.

CLAIMS
1 . A cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) lauric acid;
(b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid;
(c) at least one anionic surfactant;
(d) at least one amphoteric surfactant; and
(e) at least one cationic polymer,
wherein
the weight ratio of (a) lauric acid/ ((a) lauric acid+ (b) at least
one fatty acid other than lauric acid) is 0.15 or less, preferably
0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.10 or less.
2 . The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 , wherein the amount
of (a) lauric acid is 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
3 . The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2 , wherein (b)
at least one fatty acid other than lauric acid is selected from
C 3-1 fatty acids, preferably C 3- 8 saturated fatty acids.
4 . The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3 ,
wherein the amount of (b) at least one fatty acid other than lauric
acid is 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition .
5 . The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4 ,
wherein (c) at least one anionic surfactant is selected from the
group consisting of anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable
origin or of silk proteins, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives,
alkylsulf ates , alkylethersulf ates , sulfonates, isethionates,
taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulf oacetates, phosphates,
alkylphosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of
alkylpolyglucosides , and mixtures thereof.
6 . The cosmetic composition according to Claim 5 , wherein the amino
acid derivatives are acyl glycine derivatives or glycine
derivatives.
7 . The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6 ,
wherein the amount of (c) at least on e anionic surfactant is 0.1
to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8 . The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 ,
wherein (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from
the group consisting of, betaines, amidoaminecarboxylated
derivatives, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
9 . The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8 ,
wherein (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from
amine oxides.
10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 ,
wherein the amount of (d) at least one amphoteric surfactant is
0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10,
wherein (e) at least one cationic polymer is a polyquaternium
polymer.
12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11,
wherein the amount of (e) at least one cationic polymer is 0.1
to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12,
wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises (f ) at least
one alkylpolyglycerylether .
14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13,
wherein the amount of (f) at least one alkylpolyglycerylether
is 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition .
15. Process for cleaning the skin, scalp and/or hair, in particular
the face, wherein the cosmetic composition according to any one
of Claims 1 to 14 is applied to the skin, to the scalp and/or
to the hair, in particular to the face.