COSMETIC COMPOSITION
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.
BACKGROUND ART
Oil-in-water (O/W) or Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions are well known in the field of cosmetics and
dermatology, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic products, such as milks, creams, tonics,
serums or toilet waters. In particular, a fine emulsion such as an O/W nano- or micro-emulsion is
particularly interesting in cosmetic products due to its transparent or slightly translucent aspect.
It is known practice, in the cosmetics or dermatological field, to use oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions.
These emulsions, that consist of an oil phase (or lipophilic phase) dispersed in an aqueous phase, have
an external aqueous phase and are therefore products that are more pleasant to use because of the feeling
of freshness that they provide. However, they have the drawback of relatively lacking stability when
the amount of oil present is too great. Now, for some applications, it is advantageous to have a large
amount of oils since the oils provide comfort for the skin, nourish it, and can also remove makeup from
it when these oils have makeup-removing properties.
Moreover, it is advantageous to have fine emulsions, i.e. emulsions where the oily phase is in the form
of very small droplets, i.e. of droplets less than 4 m in size, since these fine emulsions have a pleasant
cosmetic feel and are generally more stable than coarse emulsions.
These emulsions can be prepared in particular by the phase inversion temperature technique (PIT
emulsions), in which the average size of the globules constituting the oily phase is within given limits,
namely between 0.1 and 4 m h (100 to 4000 nm). The principle of phase inversion temperature (or
PIT) emulsification is, in theoretical terms, well known to those skilled in the art; it was described in
1968 by K. Shinoda(J. Chem. Soc. Jpn., 1968, 89, 435). It was shown that this emulsification technique
makes it possible to obtain stable fine emulsions (K. Shinoda and H. Saito, J. Colloid Interface Sci.,
1969, 30, 258). This technology was applied in cosmetics as early as 1972 by Mitsui et al.
("Application of the phase-inversion-temperature method to the emulsification of cosmetics"; T. Mitsui,
Y. Machida and F. Harusawa, American. Cosmet. Perfum., 1972, 87,33).
The principle of this technique is as follows: an O/W emulsion (introduction of the aqueous phase into
the oily phase) is prepared at a temperature that should be greater than the phase inversion temperature
of the system, i.e. the temperature at which the equilibrium between the hydrophilic and lipophilic
properties of the emulsifier(s) used is attained; at higher temperature, i.e. greater than the phase
inversion temperature (> PIT), the emulsion is of water-in-oil type and, as it cools, this emulsion inverts
at the phase inversion temperature so as to become an emulsion of oil-in-water type, having beforehand
passed through a state of microemulsion. This process makes it possible to readily obtain emulsions
with a diameter generally less than 4 . Emulsifying surfactants of the oil-in-water type
conventionally used have an HLB (HLB = hydrophilic lipophilic balance) ranging from 8 to 1 . These
emulsifiers, due to their amphiphilic structure, are situated at the oil phase/aqueous phase interface, and
thus stabilize the dispersed oil droplets.
However, it is difficult to produce fine O W emulsions containing a large amount of oily phase, since
such emulsions have a tendency to destabilize, this destabilization resulting in coalescence and
separation of the aqueous and oily phases with release of the oil. In order to improve the stability of
these emulsions, the concentration of emulsifiers can be increased; however, a high concentration of
emulsifiers can result in a rough, clingy or sticky feel, and in problems of innocuity with respect to the
skin, the eyes and the scalp.
In particular, a fine emulsion such as an O Wnano- or micro-emulsion is particularly interesting in
cosmetic products due to its transparent or slightly translucent aspect.
For example, JP-A-H09- 110635 discloses a fine emulsion which is formed by using a combination of
polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, as a surfactant, and C10-C22 2-hydroxy fatty acid. In addition,
JP-A-H1 1-71256 discloses a fine emulsion which is formed by using a combination of polyglyceryl
fatty acid ester and a betain.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
However, when a certain type of a nonionic surfactant is used for preparing a fine emulsion such as a
nano- or micro-emulsion, the transparent or slightly translucent aspect of the emulsion as well as
stability of the emulsion, are impaired.
An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable cosmetic composition in the form of a nanoor
micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly translucent, preferably transparent, aspect of the
emulsion, even when the above nonionic surfactant is used.
The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic composition in the form of
a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, preferably with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 4 to
6 glycerins, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerins;
(c) at least one hydrotrope; and
(d) water.
The (a) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic
oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils. Preferably, the (a) oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon
oils which are in the form of a liquid at a room temperature. It may be preferable that the (a) oil
be chosen from oils with molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
The amount of the (a) oil may range from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5to 40% by weight,
and more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to
13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0.
It is preferable that the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be chosen from polyglyceryl monolaurate
comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,
polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6
glycerol units.
The (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters,
preferably with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 3 to 6 glycerins, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerins,
wherein the mixture preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with
a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 or 6 glycerins.
The (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester raw material may comprises esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine
containing 70% or more of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 4 or more, preferably esters
of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 60% of polyglycerine whose
polymerization degree is between 4 and 11, and more preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine
containing equal to or more than 30% of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 5.
The amount of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may range from 0.1to 25% by weight, preferably
from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
The weight ratio of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably
from 0.4 to 3, and more preferably from 0.5 to 1.5.
The (c) hydrotrope may have a log P being from -0.7 to 6,
preferably from -0.7 to 1, preferably from -0.5 to 0.7 for non ionic hydrotropes, and
preferably from -0.7 to 5.5 for ionic hydrotropes (e.g. acidic hydrotropes). When acidic hydrotropes
are used, as is known to those skilled in the art, arbitrary alkaline species may be added to solubilize the
acidic hydrotropes to improve transparency by adjusting the pH.
It is preferable that the (c) hydrotrope be selected from the group consisting of whitening agents,
anti-aging agents, UV filters, keratolytic and anti-bacterial agents.
It is preferable that the (c) hydrotrope be selected from the group consisting of
oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acid, Vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, preferably niacinamide, xanthine
bases, preferably caffeine, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxy
propionic acid, diethyllutidinate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid,
phloretine, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, resveratrol, apigenin, prasterone,
benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, capryloyl salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, and
jasmonic acid derivatives, preferably sodium tetrahydrojasmonate.
The (c) hydrotrope may be selected from the group consisting of caffeine, theophylline,
theobromine, acefylline and mixtures thereof.
The (c) hydrotrope may be a jasmonic acid derivative, in particular represented by the formula (I):
O
wherein
represents a COOR3 radical, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C alkyl radical optionally
substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical which is saturated or unsaturated, which is linear and which has
from 1to 18 carbon atoms or which is branched or cyclic and which has from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, or
an optical isomers or a salt thereof. The (c) hydrotrope may preferably be a jasmonic acid
derivative represented by the following formula:
The amount of the (c) hydrotrope may range from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20%
by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one
nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) and/or at least one ionic surfactant.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one
thickening agent, preferably selected from associative thickeners.
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of an
O Wemulsion, and the (a) oil be in the form of a droplet with a number average particle size of 300 nm
or less, preferably from 1 nm to 150 nm.
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention have a transparency
greater than 50%, more preferably greater than 60%, and further more preferably greater than 70%.
The above objective of the present invention can also be achieved by a cosmetic composition in the
form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to
13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0;
(c) at least one hydrotrope, preferably at least one caffeine or at least one j asmonic acid
derivative; and
(d) water.
Further, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for treating the skin, the hair,
mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp, characterized in that the
cosmetic composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin, the hair, mucous
membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp.
Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the
present invention, as or in care products and/or washing products and/or make-up products and/or
make-up-removing products for body and/or facial skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp
and/or the hair and/or the nails and/or the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable cosmetic
composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly translucent,
preferably transparent, aspect of the emulsion, even when using a nonionic surfactant which was
difficult to form a fine emulsion such as a nano- or micro-emulsion.
Thus, the present invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion,
comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, preferably with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 3 to
6 glycerins, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerins;
(c) at least one hydrotrope; and
(d) water.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a dispersed phase which has a smaller
diameter due to a combination of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the hydrotrope. Therefore, the
cosmetic composition can be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly
translucent.
Since the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have transparent or slightly
translucent, the composition can be preferably used for lotions and the like. Further, as the dispersed
phase is finely dispersed, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can provide
unique texture, moisturizing and wet feeling, as well as increased suppleness. Furthermore, if the
dispersed phase is an oil phase and includes one or more Hpophilic or even amphiphilic active
ingredients, the dispersed oil phase can function as a carrier of the active ingredient and accelerate the
penetration of the active ingredients into the skin, or can distribute the active ingredients on the skin.
Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more
detailed manner.
[Oil]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil. Here, "oil"
means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room
temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in
cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile,
preferably non-volatile.
The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a
plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
It is preferable that the (a) oil be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin,
synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia
nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil,
sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and
isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched - 6 aliphatic
monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic
monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or
equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which
the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate,
ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl
myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate,
isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of -C22alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic,
dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or
pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl
sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate;
bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate;
triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl
citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably 2-C22 fatty acids.
It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds
containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which
comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or
polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose,
galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and
derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance
methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or
mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds
may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters,
tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates,
stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially,
oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl
hexanoate.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or
methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates,
linolenates and oleostearates.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the
company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl
adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl
neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate,
2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl
carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate,
hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl
tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate,
and mixtures thereof.
As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides,
glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate,
glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as
dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic
organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in
accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprising in their
structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in WalterNoll's Chemistry and Technologyof
Silicones ( 1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of
between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are,
for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone®
7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold
under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and
dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance
Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type
such as dimethylsHoxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the
company Union Carbide, of formula:
with D" : - Si - O— with D ' - Si - O —
CH, C 8 17
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon
compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
tefratrimethylsnylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
oxy-1,G-bis(2,2,2' ,2' ,3,3' -hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less
than or equal to 5 10-6 m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular
under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are
also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32,
Todd & Byers, VolatileSilicone Fluidsfor Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured
at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly
chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following
commercial products:
the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the
oil 70 047 V 500 000;
the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia;
the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60
000mm /s;
the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from
General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known
under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes
and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the
following names:
- the Silbione® oils of the 70 6 1 series from Rhodia;
the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and
SF 1265.
The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy
groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone F-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils
Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned
include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane,
isododecane and isodecane; and
- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins,
liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and
squalane.
As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched
hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil(e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin,
vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and
decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at a
room temperature.
It is also preferable that the (a) oil be chosen from oils with molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
Preferably, the (a) oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g mol, chosen among ester or ether
oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (Ci-C1 , e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,
isononyl isononanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate and ethyl hexyl palmitate, dicaprylyl ether), hydrocarbon
oils with a short alkyl chain or chains (Ci-C^, e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), short
alcohol type oils such as octyldodecanol.
The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the (a) oil is not limited,
and may range from 0.1to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight, and more preferably
from 1to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Ester]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyglyceryl fatty
acid ester. A single type of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, but two or more different types of
polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used in combination.
It is preferable that the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester have a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10
glycerols, more preferably from 3 to 6 glycerols, and further more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols.
The (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of from
8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0. If two or more
polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weight average of the HLB
values of all the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.
The (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono, di and tri esters of saturated or
unsaturated acid, preferably saturated acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon
atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic
acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
T e polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprate, PG2
dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 capiylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tncapiylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate,
PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2
tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2
trioleare, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate,
PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3
stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3
oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleare, PG4 caprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4
dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4
dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4
diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleare, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate,
PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5
trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5
tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5
trioleare, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate,
PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6
stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6
oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleare, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 caprylate,
PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 myristate,
PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10
isostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG1 0 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate, and PG10 trioleare.
It is preferable that the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be chosen from:
polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units,
polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units,
polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units, and
polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 4 to 6 glycerol units.
In one embodiment, the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester raw material may be chosen from a mixture of
polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 4 to 6 glycerins, more
preferably 5 or 6 glycerins, wherein the mixture preferably comprises 30% by weight or more of a
polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 or 6 glycerins.
It is preferable than the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester raw material comprises esters of a fatty acid and
polyglycerine containing 70% or more of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 4 or more,
preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 60% of
polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is between 4 and 11, and more preferably esters of a fatty
acid and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 30% of polyglycerine whose polymerization
degree is 5.
The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty
acid ester is not limited, and may range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by
weight, and more preferably from 1to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Hydrotrope]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrotrope. A
single type of hydrotrope may be used, but two or more different types of hydrotrope may be used in
combination.
Hydrotropes (or hydrotropic agents) may be a diverse class of compounds characterized by an
amphiphnic molecular structure and ability to dramatically increase the solubility of poorly soluble
organic molecules in water. Many hydrotropes have aromatic structure with an ionic moiety, while
some of them are linear alkyl chains, as listed in the table below. Although hydrotropes noticeably
resemble surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and
relatively shorter alkyl chain distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles.
Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium
4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene
sulfonate, sodium butyl monoglycolsulfate, 4-aminobenzoic acid HC1, sodium cumene sulfonate,
N,N^emylnicotinarnide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl
phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylurea, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide 3.5, procaine HC1, proline
HC1, nicotinamide, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl
carbamate, pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea,
N,N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide, and isoniazid. Hydrotropes can be found in Lee J. et al.,
"Hydrotropic Solubilization of Paclitaxel: Analysis of Chemical Structures for Hydrotropic Property",
Pharmaceutical Research, Vol. 20, No. 7, 2003; and Hodgon T.K., Kaler E.W., "Hydrotropic Solutions",
Current Opinion in Colloid and Interface Science, 12, 121-128, 2007.
Cosmetically acceptable hydrotropes are preferable hydrotropes that can be used in cosmetic
compositions. While hydrotropes represent a broad class of molecules used in various fields, cosmetic
applications will be limited due to safety and tolerance restrictions. Preferred hydrotropes in cosmetics
are listed as below:
The suitability of a hydrotrope for use in cosmetic compositions can be determined using tests known
the art for determining effects of compounds on skin, and bioavailability methods.
An advantage of using hydrotropes is, once a stable solution is obtained, further dilution doesn't
influence the stability of the solution. This is very different from organic solvents that are commonly
used to increase the water solubility of actives. Typically, an aqueous dilution of organic solvents with
pre-dissolved actives results in crystallization or precipitation.
The (c) hydrotrope may have a log P being from -0.7 to 6,
preferably from -0.7 to 1.0, preferably from -0.5 to 0.7 for non ionic hydrotropes, and
preferably from -0.7 to 5.5 for ionic hydrotropes (e.g. acidic hydrotropes).
Formulator will adjust pH in order to reach the best state of transparency with hydrotropes.
A log P value is a value for the base-ten logarithm of the apparent octan-1 -ol/water partition coefficient.
The log p values are known and are determined by a standard test which determines the concentration
of the (c) compound in octan-1 -ol and water. The log P may be calculated according to the method
described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom/Fragment contribution methodfor estimating
octanol-waterpartition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value may also be calculated
using numerous commercially available software packages, which determine the log P as a function of
the structure of a molecule. By way of example, mention may be made of the Epiwin software from
the United States Environmental Agency.
The values may especially be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris
software V4.67; they may also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric
constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also an Internet site which provides
estimated values (address: http://esc.syires.com/mterkow/kowdemo.htm).
It is preferable that the (c) hydrotrope be selected from the group consisting of whitening agents,
anti-aging agents, UV filters, keratolytic and anti-bacterial agents.
As examples of the anti-aging agent, mention may be made of moisturizers, free-radical scavengers,
keratolytic agents, vitamins, anti-elastase and anti-collagenase agents, protides, fatty acid derivatives,
steroids, trace elements, bleaching agents, extracts of algae and of planktons, sunscreens, enzymes and
coenzymes, flavonoids and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the (c) hydrotrope be selected from the group consisting of
oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acid, Vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, preferably niacinamide, xanthine
bases, preferably caffeine, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxy
propionic acid, diethyllutidinate, terephthalyHdene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid,
phloretine, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, resveratrol, 4-butylresorcinol, apigenin,
phenylethyl resorcinol, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, capryloyl
salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, and jasmonic acid derivatives, preferably sodium
tetrahydrojasmonate. Vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, xanthine bases such as caffeine, and
jasmonic acid derivatives, which are described below in more detailed manner, are more preferable.
(VitaminB3 and Derivatives Thereof)
Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, is a compound of the following formula:
in which R may be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinyl
alcohol), -CO-NH-C¾-COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid).
Niacinamide is preferable.
Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as
tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of
-CONH , products from reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and
of carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolid acid or palmitic acid.
Mention may.also be made of the following derivatives: 2-cWoronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide,
6-ammonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide,
N-(hy(i:oxymemyl)nicotinarnide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide,
N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid,
tMonicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and
sodium nicotinate.
Other vitamin B3 derivatives that may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides,
bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as the salts obtained by reaction with
carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.
It is preferable that the Vitamin B3 or a derivative thereof has a log P being from -0.7 to 6, preferably
from -0.6 to 5, more preferably -0.5 to 4.
(Xanthine Base)
Among the xanthine bases which may be used according to the present invention, mention may be
made of: caffeine, theophylline, theobromine, acefylline, xanlhinol nicotinate, diniprophylline,
diprophylline, etamiphylline and its derivatives, etophylline, proxyphylline, pentophylline,
propentophylline, pyridophylline, and bamiphylline, without this list being limiting.
It is preferable that the xanthine base be selected from the group consisting of caffeine, theophylline,
theobromine, acefylline and mixtures thereof. These xanthine bases are known as inhibitors of
phosphodiesterase, which is the enzyme responsible for the degradation of cAMP. By increasing the
intracellular content of cAMP, these xanthine bases promote lipolytic activity and thus constitute
first-rate slirnming active agents.
As examples of plant extracts containing xanthine bases, mention may be made in particular of extracts
of tea, of coffee, of guarana, of Paraguay tea, and of cola, without this list being limiting.
It is preferable that the xanthine base has a log P being from -0.7 to 6, preferably from -0.6 to 5, more
preferably -0.5 to 4, and even more preferably from -0.3 to 2.
(Jasmonic Acid Derivative)
The jasmonic acid derivative is a compound chosen from th se corresponding to the following formula:
in which: R represents a COOR3 radical, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C a yl radical
optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical which is
saturated or unsaturated, which is linear and which has from 1to 18 carbon atoms or which is branched
or cyclic and which has from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; and their optical isomers, and corresponding salts.
Preferably, Ri denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe (Me: methyl group), -COO-CH 2-CH3,
-COO-CH2--CH(OH)-CH 2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH OH or -COOCH 2-CH(OH)-CH 3. Preferably R
denotes a -COOH radical.
Preferably, R2 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon radical preferably having from 2 to
carbon atoms. In particular, R2 can be a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical.
According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (T) is chosen from
3-hydroxy-2-[(2Z)-2-pentenyl]cyclopentaneacetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid
and is preferably 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid.
The salts of the compounds which can be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from
alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium,
magnesium or strontium salts; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper salts; salts
of ammonium of formula H4
+; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as, for example,
methylamine, dimethylamine, trimemylamine, triemylamine, emylamine, 2-hydroxyethylarnine,
bis(2-hydroxyemyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyemyl)amine salts; or lysine or arginine salts. Use is
preferably made of salts chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, strontium, copper,
manganese or zinc salts.
It is preferable to use the following compound as the jasmonic acid derivative (Mexoryl SBO).
It is preferable that the jasmonic acid derivative has a log P being from -0.7 to 6, preferably from -0.6
to 5, more preferably -0.5 to 4.
The amount of the (c) hydrotrope is not limited, and may range from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably
from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, further more preferably 2 to
10% by weight, and eve more preferably 3 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[Water]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water.
The amount of water is not limited, and may be from 40 to 95% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90%
by weight, and more preferably 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Additional Surfactant]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one
nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) and/or at least one additional ionic surfactant. A single
type of additional surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of additional surfactant may
be used in combination. The ionic surfactant can be selected from cationic surfactants, anionic
surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants.
(Nonionic Surfactant)
The additional nonionic surfactant is not limited as long as it is different from the above (b) polyglyceryl
fatty acid ester.
The additional nonionic surfactant may have an HLB value of from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to
13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0. If two or more additional nonionic surfactants are used,
the HLB value is determined by the weight average of the HLB values of all the additional nonionic
surfactants.
The HLB is the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. This
term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in "The HLB system. A
time-saving guide to emulsifier selection" (published by C Americas Inc., 1984).
The term HLB ("hydropMlic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes
the hydrophnic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant.
The HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention is the
HLB according to Griffin, defined in the publication J. Soc. Cosm. Chem., 1954 (Vol 5), pages 249-256
or the HLB determined experimentally and as described in the publication from the authors F. Puisieux
and M. Seiller, entitled "Galenica 5: Les systemes disperses [Dispersed systems] - Volume I - Agents de
surface et emulsions [Surface agents and emulsions] - Chapter IV - Notions de HLB et de HLB critique
[Notions of HLB and of critical HLB], pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Determination de HLB par
voie experimentale [Experimental determination of HLB], pages 164-180.
It is preferably the calculated HLB values that should be taken into account.
The calculated HLB is defined as being the following coefficient:
calculated HLB = 20 molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass.
For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units fused to
the fatty alcohol and the calculated HLB then corresponds to the HLB according to Griffin (Griffin
W.C., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chemists, 5, 249, 1954).
The (b) nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, and
more preferably from 0.0 to 13.0 may be chosen from:
(1) silicone surfactants,
(2) surfactants that are fluid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, chosen from the esters of
at least one polyol chosen from the group formed by polyethylene glycol comprising from 1 to
60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan, glycerol comprising from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units,
polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least one fatty acid comprising at
least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs-C^ alkyl chain,
(3) mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol,
(4) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars,
(5) surfactants that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, chosen from fatty esters of
glycerol, fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitan, ethoxylated fatty
ethers and ethoxylated fatty esters, and
(6) block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and of propylene oxide (B).
As silicone surfactants which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of
those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-541 1744.
The (1) silicone surfactant as the above nonionic surfactant may preferably be a compound of
formula (I):
in which:
¾ , R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a C -C alkyl radical or a radical
-(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2) -( CH2CH2CH2) -OR , at least one radical R R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical;
R being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
x is an integer ranging from 1to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1to 30;
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl
radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of the compounds of
formula (P) :
(C )3SiO - [(CH3) SiO] - (CH3SiO) B - Si(CH 3)3
)
(CH ) -(OCH CH ) -OH
in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer
ranging from 10 to 20.
As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also be made of the compounds of
formula (PI) :
H-(OCH2CH2)y-(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A'-(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2)y-OH (PT)
in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
Compounds of the invention which may be used are those sold by the company Dow Corning under the
names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146
and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (P) in which, respectively,A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12;A is
103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
The compound Q4-3667 isa compound of formula (IP) in which A is 15 and y is 13.
The (2) surfactants that are fluid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C may be, in particular:
the isostearate of polyethylene glycol of molecular weight 400, sold under the name PEG 400
by the company Unichema;
- diglyceryl isostearate, sold by the company Solvay;
glyceryl laurate comprising 2 glycerol units, sold by the company Solvay;
sorbitan oleate, sold under the name Span 80 by the company ICI;
sorbitan isostearate, sold under the name Nikkol SI 1OR by the company Nikko; and
cc-butylglucoside cocoate or oc-butylglucoside caprate, sold by the company Ulice.
The (3) mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol, which can be
used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed
esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol with an alkyl chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and of
cc-hydroxy acid and/or of succinic acid, with glycerol. The a-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric
acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which are derived the mixed esters which can be used
in the nanoemulsion of the invention may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. They
may especially be stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate,
laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and
mixtures thereof.
As examples of mixed esters which can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention, mention may be
made of the mixed ester of glycerol and of the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic
acid (CTFAname: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) sold by the company Hiils under the name
Imwitor 375 ; the mixed ester of succinic acid and of isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name:
Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by the company Hiils under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed
ester of citric acid and of stearic acid with glycerol (CTFAname: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by the
company Hiils under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and of stearic acid with
glycerol (CTFAname: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by the company Danisco under the name
Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.
The (4) fatty acid esters of sugars, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may preferably
be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C and may be chosen in particular from the group
comprising esters or mixtures of esters of -C fatty acid and of sucrose, of maltose, of glucose or of
fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C14-C22 fatty acid and of methylglucose.
The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used in the present
invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or
from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the esters may be chosen in particular from stearates,
behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates
are preferably used.
As examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and of sucrose, of maltose, of glucose or of
fructose, mention may be made of sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and
mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by the company Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70,
Fl 10 and F160; and examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and of methylglucose which
may be mentioned are methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate, sold by the company Goldschmidt
under the name Tego-care 450. Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters such as
methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.
The (4) fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be solid
at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C and may be chosen in particular from the group
comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of Cs-C^ fatty alcohol and of glucose, of maltose, of sucrose or
of fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a Q4-C22 fatty alcohol and of methylglucose. These are
in particular alkylpolyglucosides.
The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers which may be used in the
nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated, linear alkyl chain containing,
respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers may be chosen in
particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and
hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.
As examples of fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides such as
decylglucoside and laurylglucoside, which is sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the
respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with
cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the
name Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the
company Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl
alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the
company SEPPIC.
The surfactant used more particularly is sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate
and mixtures thereof, methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate and alkylpolyglucosides.
The (5) fatty esters of glycerol which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, which are solid at a
temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, may be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters
formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon
atoms and from 1to 10 glycerol units. One or more of these fatty esters of glycerol may be used in the
present invention.
These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitates, and
mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
As examples of surfactants which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of
decaglyceryl monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (CTFA names: Polyglyceryl-10
stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 distearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 tristearate, Polyglyceryl- 10 pentastearate), such as
the products sold under the respective names Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S, 2-S, 3-S and 5-S by the company
Nikko, and diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: Polyglyceryl-2 stearate), such as the product sold by
the company Nikko under the name Nikkol DGMS.
The (5) fatty esters of sorbitan which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, which are solid at a
temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, may be chosen from the group comprising C16-C2 fatty acid
esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated C16-C2 fatty acid esters of sorbitan. They are formed from at
least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16
to 22 carbon atoms, and from sorbitol or from ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters
generally comprise from 1to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO)
units.
These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and
mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
As examples of the above nonionic surfactant can be used in the present invention, mention may be
made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFAname: Sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the
name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFAname: Sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI
under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: Polysorbate 65), sold by the
company ICI under the name Tween 65.
The (5) ethoxylated fatty ethers that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, which may
be used as the above nonionic surfactant, are preferably ethers formed from 1to 100 ethylene oxide
units and from at least one fatty alcohol chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain
of the ethers may be chosen in particular from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and rnixtures
thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers which may be mentioned are behenyl
alcohol ethers comprising 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFAnames: Beheneth-5,
Beheneth-10, Beheneth-20, Beheneth-30), such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BB5,
BB10, BB20 and BB30 by the company Nikko, and stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide
units (CTFA name: Steareth-2), such as the product sold under the name Brij 72 by the company ICI.
The (5) ethoxylated fatty esters that are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C, which may
be used as the above nonionic surfactant, are esters formed from 1to 100 ethylene oxide units and from
at least one fatty acid chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain in the esters may
be chosen in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned are the ester of stearic acid comprising
40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40
stearate) by the company ICI, as well as the ester of behenic acid comprising 8 ethylene oxide units
(CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the
company Gattefosse.
The block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and of propylene oxide (B), which may be used as
surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, may be chosen in particular from block
copolymers of formula (TV):
HO(C2¾ O C3¾0)y(C 2¾0) zH (IV)
in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60, and
mixtures thereof, and more particularly from the block copolymers of formula (TV) having an HLB
value ranging from 8.0 to 14.0.
(Cationic Surfactant)
The cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group
consisting of optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quatemary
ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of quatemary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:
those of general formula (I) below:
wherein
R ,R , R3, and R4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic
radicals comprising from 1to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen,
nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy,
C2-C polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C -C )alkyl, (C12-C22)alkylacetate and
hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X is chosen from halides,
phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C -C6) alkyl sulfates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates;
quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula ( ) below:
(P)
wherein:
R is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty
acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut;
is chosen from hydrogen, - alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to
30 carbon atoms;
R is chosen from -C4 alkyl radicals;
R is chosen from hydrogen and C1-C4 alkyl radicals; and
X is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl
sulfonates. In one embodiment, R and R are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl
and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 2 1 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow,R is
methyl and R is hydrogen. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27
(CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75,
W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco;
diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (HI):
(PI)
wherein:
R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;
R10 is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group
(Rl6a)(Rl7a)(Rl8a) (CH2)3;
Rn, R ,R13, R14, R16a, R17a, and R18a, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen
and alkyl radicals comprising from 1to 4 carbon atoms; and
X is chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates, and methyl sulfates.
An example of one such diquaternary ammonium salt is FINQUAT CT-P of
FINETEX(Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT of FINETEX (Quaternium-75); and
quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (TV) below:
wherein:
R22 is chosen from C -C alkyl radicals and -C6 hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
is chosen from:
the radical blow:
linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C C hydrocarbon-based radicals R27, and hydrogen,
R25 is chosen from:
the radical below:
o
R'.28 c
linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R¾, and hydrogen,
R24, R26, and R2 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated
and unsaturated, C7-C21, hydrocarbon-based radicals;
r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;
each of r l and tl, which may be identical or different, is 0 or 1, and r2+rl=2r and tl+2t=2t;
y is chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum
x+y+z ranges from 1to 15, that when x is 0, R denotes R 7, and that when z is 0, R2 denotes R29. R22
may be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is chosen from linear
alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and
dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x+y+z
ranges from 1to 10. When 2 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and comprise from
12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a
hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it may comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of a
non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R2 , and R , which may be identical or different, are
chosen from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C -C2 1 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for
example from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C 2i alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In
another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is
equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3,
for example equal to 2. The anion X may be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride,
bromide, and iodide; and Ci-C alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate,
phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate and lactate, and any
other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function, are other non-limiting
examples of anions that may be used according to the invention. In one embodiment, the anion X is
chosen from chloride and methyl sulfate.
In another embodiment, the ammonium salts of formula (TV) may be used, wherein:
is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R is chosen from:
the radical below:
O
I I
methyl, ethyl, and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, hydrogen;
R25 is chosen from:
the radical below:
O
R 2 8
and hydrogen;
R 4, 2 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated
and unsaturated, C13-C1 hydrocarbon-based radicals, for example from linear and branched, saturated
and unsaturated, C1 -C1 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (TV) that may be mentioned include salts, for example
chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyemyl-dimethylammonium, of
diacyloxyemyl-hydroxyethyl-methylamm- onium, of
monoacyloxyemyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyemyl-methylammonium, of
monoacyloxyemyl-hydroxyelhyl-dimethyl- ammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the
acyl radicals may comprise from 4 to 18 carbon atoms, and may be derived, for example, from a plant
oil, for instance palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these
radicals may be identical or different.
r
These products may be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylenated
triethanolarnine, trnsopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine onto fatty acids
or onto mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters
thereof. This esterification may be followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from
alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example dimethyl and diethyl
sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol
chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis,
Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and "Rewoquat® WE 18"
by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.
Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that may be used in the compositions according to the
invention include the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in U.S. Pat. Nos.
4,874,554 and 4,137,180.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that may be used in compositions according
to the invention include, but are not limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example
tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimetiiylammonium and alkyltrimemylammonium
chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as
behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylarnmonium and
benzyldimethylstearylarnmonium chloride; palmilylamidopropyltimethylairimonium chloride; and
steararrudopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70"
by the company Van Dyk.
According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that may be used in the compositions of the
invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from behenyltrimethylammonium
chloride, cetyltrimethylarnmonium chloride, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22,
behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldmiemylarnmonium chloride,
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimemylamine.
(Anionic Surfactant)
The anionic surfactant is not limited. The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic
derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates,
carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates,
sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl
polyglucosides, and their mixtures.
1) Anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin are protein hydrolysates comprising a
hydrophobic group, it being possible for the said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the
protein or to be added by reaction of the protein and/or of the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic
compound. The proteins are of vegetable origin or derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group can
in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
Mention may more particularly be made, as anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin, of apple,
wheat, soybean or oat protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon
atoms, and their salts. The alkyl chain can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium,
potassium and/or ammonium salt.
Thus, mention may be made, as protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, for example, of
salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a silk protein modified by lauric acid, such as the
product sold under the name Kawa Silk by Kawaken; salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a
wheat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam W
OR by Croda (CTFA name: potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids) and the sodium salt sold under the
name Proteol LW 30 by Seppic (CTFAname: sodium lauroyl wheat amino acids); salts of protein
hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon
atoms and more especially salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein modified by
lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous solution) by Seppic
(CTFAname: sodium lauroyl oat amino acids); or salts of apple protein hydrolysates comprising an
alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol
APL (30% aqueous/glycol solution) by Seppic (CTFAname: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids).
Mention may also be made of the mixture of lauroyl amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine,
alanine) neutralized with sodium N-methylglycinate sold under the name Proteol SAV 50 S by Seppic
(CTFAname: sodium cocoyl amino acids).
2) Mention may be made, as phosphates and alkyl phosphates, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates
and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao
Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, the mixture of mono- and diesters (predominantly
diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-3 1® by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and
diester, sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO)
2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester®
by Condea, the potassium or triethanolarnine salt of mono^^-Ci^alkyl phosphate, sold under the
references Arlatone MAP 230K-40® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60® by Uniqema, potassium lauryl
phosphate, sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09® by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl
phosphate, sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema
3) Mention may be made, as carboxylates, of:
amido ether carboxylates (AEC), such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO), sold
under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals;
- polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether
carboxylate (65/25/10 C12-C14-C16), sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao
Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids originating from olive oil,
sold under the name Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium
tridecyl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6NEX® by Nikkol; and
- salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C to C22 alkyl chain which are neutralized with an organic or
inorganic base, such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolarnine,
N-memylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
4) Mention may in particular be made, as amino acid derivatives, of alkali salts of amino acids, such as:
- sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl L 97® by Ciba
or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the
name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the
name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol;
alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium
Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or
triemanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by
Kawaken;
glutamates, such as methanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate
CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triemanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate
LT-12® by Ajinomoto;
aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine
N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi;
glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names
Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 byAjinomoto;
- citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohols, sold under the
name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and
galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate, sold by Soliance.
5) Mention may be made, as sulphosuccinates, for example, of oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl (70/30
/C alcohol monosulphosuccinate, sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol
SB-FA30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of C1 -C14 alcohols, sold under
the name Setacin F Special Paste® by Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium
oleamidosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, oxyethylenated (5 EO)
lauramide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of
oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50®
by Witco, or ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewoderm S
1333® by Witco. Use may also be made of polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates, such as disodium
PEG- 12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by Maclntyre.
6) Mention may be made, as alkyl sulphates, for example, of Iriemanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA
name: TEA lauryl sulphate), such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol TL40 FL
or the product sold by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, which products are at 40% in aqueous
solution. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CTFAname: ammonium lauryl
sulphate), such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL, which is at 30% in
aqueous solution.
7) Mention may be made, as alkyl ether sulphates, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA
name: sodium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the names TexaponN40 and TexaponAOS 225
UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFAname: ammonium laureth sulphate), such as
that sold under the name Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.
8) Mention may be made, as sulphonates, for example, of a-olefinsulphonates, such as sodium
a-olefinsulphonate (C14-C1 ), sold under the name Bio-TergeAS-40® by Stepan, sold under the names
WitconateAOS Protege® and Sdframine AOS PH 12® by Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge
AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium olefinsulphonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30®
by Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulphonates, such as sodium xylenesulphonate, sold under the names
Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol SXS93® by Manro.
9) Mention may be made, as isethionates, of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as
the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P® by Jordan.
10) Mention may be made, as taurates, of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under
the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyltaurates, such as sodium
N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name
Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate, sold under the name Nikkol
PMT® byNi o . Preferred one is sodium methyl stearoyl taurate (ex Nikkol SMT Nikkol)
11) The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides can in particular be citrates, tartrates,
sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be
made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside ( 1,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name
Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) sulphosuccinic ester,
sold under the name Essai 512 MP® by Seppic, or the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) citric
ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia.
It is preferable that the amino acid derivatives be acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives, in
particular acyl glycine salt.
The acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives can be chosen from acyl glycine salts (or acyl
glycinates) or glycine salts (or glycinates), and in particular from the following.
i) Acyl glycinates of formula (I):
R-HNCH 2COOX (I)
in which
R represents an acyl group R'C=0, with R' , which represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or
branched, hydrocarbon chain, preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably
from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20
carbon atoms, and
X represents a cation chosen, for example, from the ions of alkali metals, such as Na, Li or K,
preferably Na or K, the ions of alkaline earth metals, such as Mg, ammonium groups and their
mixtures.
The acyl group can in particular be chosen from the lauroyl, myristoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl,
isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl groups and their mixtures.
Preferably, R is a cocoyl or stearoyl group.
ii) Glycinates of following formula (P) :
I
R, — CH2COO -
Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain comprising from
10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20
carbon atoms; i is advantageously chosen from the lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cetyl,
cetearyl or oleyl groups and their mixtures and preferably from the stearyl and oleyl groups,
the R groups, which are identical or different, represent an R"OH group, R" being an alkyl
group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
Mention may be made, as compound of formula (I), for example, of the compounds carrying the INCI
name sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCS-12, sold by Ajinomoto, or potassium
cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCK-12 from Ajinomoto.
Use may be made, as compounds of formula (H), of dihydroxyethyl oleyl glycinate or dihydroxyethyl
stearyl glycinate.
(Amphoteric Surfactant)
The amphoteric surfactant is not limited. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be, for
example (nonlirniting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine, and
optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain
comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for
example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate).
Among the amidoaminecarboxylated derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the
name Miranol, as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,78 1,354 and classified in the CTFA
dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 (the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference), under the
names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, with the respective structures:
R1-CONHCH2CH -N+(R2)(R3)(CH COO )
in which:
denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or
undecyl radical,
R denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
R3 denotes a carboxymethyl group; and
Ri'-CONHCH 2CH2-N(B)(C)
in which:
B represents -CH CH2OX',
C represents -(CH2) -Y, with z=l or 2,
X' denotes a -CH CH -COOH group, -CH2-COOZ' , -CH2CH -COOH, -CH2CH -COOZ' or a
hydrogen atom,
Y denotes -COOH, -COOZ', -CH -CHOH-S0 3Z' or a -CH2-CHOH-S0 3H radical,
Z' represents an ion of an alkaline or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion
issued from an organic amine, and
Ri' denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Rt'-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an
alkyl radical, such as a C7, C9, C or C13 alkyl radical, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, or an
unsaturated C17 radical.
It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from (C8-C 4)-alkyl amphomonoacetates,
(C -C24)alkyl amphodiacetates, (Cg-C24)alkyl amphomonopropionates, and (C8-C24)alkyl
amphodipropionates
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium
Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium
Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphopropionate,
Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic
acid and Cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name
Miranol® C2M concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant may be a betaine.
The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines,
alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and altylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in
particular, (C8-C 4)alkylbetaines, (C^Ci^alkylarnido^rC^alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, and
(C -C2 4)alkylamido(C1-C8)alkylsulphobetaines. In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of
betaine type are chosen from (C -C24)alkylbetaines, (C -C24)alkylamido(C 1-C8)alkylsulphobetaines,
sulphobetaines, and phosphobetaines.
Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include the compounds classified in the CTFA
dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine,
coco/olearnidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine,
stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine,
oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine, and cocosultaine, alone
or as mixtures.
The betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is preferably an aJkylbetaine and an altylantidoalkylbetaine, in
particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
In one embodiment, anionic and cationic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants have chain longer than
C1 .
The amount of the additional surfactant(s) may be 0.01 wt% to 20wt%, preferably 0.10 wt% to 10 wt%,
and more preferably 1wt% to 5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Polyol]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol.
A single type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in
combination.
The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not
encompass a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar
alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a
saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups
thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a
hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acylgroup or a carbonyl group.
The polyol may be a C -C polyol, preferably a C - polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and
preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.
The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic
molecular structure.
The polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.
The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin,
ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol,
hexyleneglycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethyleneglycol (5 to 50 ethyleneoxide groups),
and sugars such as sorbitol.
The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and preferably from
0.1% to 30% by weight, such as from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
[Thickening Agent]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one
thickening agent. A single type of thickening agent may be used, but two or more different types of
thickening agent may be used in combination.
The thickening agent may be selected from organic and inorganic thickeners.
The organic thickeners may be chosen at least one of:
(i) associative thickeners;
(ii) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers;
(iii) crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (C1-C6)alkyl acrylate;
(iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one of ethylenically unsaturated ester
monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers;
(v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide;
(vi) polysaccharides; and
(vii) 2- 0 fatty alcohols.
The thickening agent is preferably selected from associative thickeners and polysaccharides such as
starch and xanthan gum.
As used herein, the expression "associative thickener" means an amphiphilic thickener comprising both
hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, comprising at least one C -C30 fatty chain and at
least one hydrophilic unit.
Associative thickeners disclosed herein that may be used are associative polymers chosen from:
(a) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit;
(b) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain
unit;
(c) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain
unit; and
(d) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one
fatty-chain unit;
wherein the fatty chain unit contains from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
The nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit
may be chosen from one or more of:
(1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be
mentioned include:
hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with at least one group comprising at least one fatty chain, for
example, the at least one group may be chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups, and in which
the alkyl groups may be Cs-C^, such as the product NATROSOL® Plus Grade 330 CS, comprising C16
alkyls, sold by the company Aqualon, or the product BERMOCOLL® EHM 100 sold by the company
Berol Nobel,
celluloses modified with at least one polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether group, such as the product
AMERCELL® Polymer HM-1500, comprising polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether, sold by
the company Amerchol.
(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with at least one group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the
product ESAFLOR® HM 22, comprising C22 alkyl chains, sold by the company Lamberti, and the
products MIRACARE® XC95-3, comprising C1 alkyl chains, and RE205-1, comprising C 0 alkyl
chains, sold by the company Rhodia Chirnie.
(3) polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C10-c3o alkyl and alkenyl groups, for
instance the products DAPRAL® T 10 and DAPRAL® T 2 12 sold by the company Akzo and the
products ACULYN® 44 and ACULYN® 46 sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
(4) copolymers of vinylpyrroHdone and of hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers; examples that may be
mentioned include:
the products ANTARON® V216 and GANEX® V216, comprising vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene
copolymers, sold by the company I.S.P.;
the products ANTARON® V220 and GANEX® V220, comprising vinylpyrrohdone/eicosene
copolymers, sold by the company I.S.P.;
(5) copolymers of -C alkyl acrylates and methacrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at
least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl methacrylate/stearyl acrylate
copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name ANTIL® 208; and
(6) copolymers of hydrophilic acrylates and methacrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising
at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate
copolymer.
Among the anionic amphiphilic polymers disclosed herein comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and
at least one fatty-chain unit, mention may be made of those comprising at least one fatty-chain allyl
ether unit and at least one hydrophilic unit comprising an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, such
as those comprising at least one of vinylcarboxylic acid, acrylic acid, and methacrylic acid, wherein the
fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (V) below:
CH2=C(R )CH2OB R(V)
in which R is chosen from hydrogen atoms and methyl groups;
B denotes an ethyleneoxy radical;
q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 100; and
R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, and cycloalkyl
radicals, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 10 to 24 carbon atoms and further such as 12 to
18 carbon atoms.
A unit of formula (V) that may be used according to certain embodiments is a unit in which R5 denotes
H, q is equal to 10, and R denotes a stearyl, i.e., C1 , radical.
Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to an
emulsion polymerization process in European Patent No. EP-0 216 479 B2.
Among these anionic amphiphilic polymers that may be used according to one embodiment are
polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to
60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of the at least one fatty-chain
allyl ether of formula (V), and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which comprise one or
more well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomers, for instance diallyl phthalate,
allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and
methylenebisacrylamide.
Among the latter polymers, those that may be used include crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid,
of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl ether (Steareth-10), such as those sold by
the company Ciba under the names SALCARE® SC 80 and SALCARE® SC 90, which are aqueous
30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of 40% methacrylic acid, of 50% ethyl acrylate, and of 10%
steareth-10 allyl ether.
The anionic amphiphilic polymers can also be chosen from those comprising at least one unsaturated
olefinic carboxylic acid hydrophilic unit, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a
(Q0-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, which, according to one embodiment, may be
chosen from those in which the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid hydrophilic unit corresponds to the
monomer of formula (VI) below:
in which
R is chosen from hydrogen atoms, methyl groups, and ethyl groups, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic
acid, and ethacrylic acid units, and in which the hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (Q0-C30) alkyl
ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (VH) below:
H2C=CR6 -CO-OR7 (YD)
in which formula ¾ is chosen from hydrogen atoms, methyl groups, and ethyl groups, such as acrylate,
methacrylate, and ethacrylate units, and such as hydrogen atoms, i.e., acrylate units, and methyl groups,
i.e., methacrylate units; and R7 is a Cio-C3 0, such as Q2-C22, a yl radical.
(C10-C3o)Alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids disclosed herein comprise, for example, at least
one of lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the
corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl
methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are disclosed and prepared, for example, according to U.S.
Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
The anionic amphiphilic polymers that may be used in the composition disclosed herein may for
example comprise polymers formed from a mixture of monomers. The anionic amphiphilic polymers
may comprise at least one of the following monomers:
(i) acrylic acid, an ester of formula (VET) below:
H C=CR 8-CO-OR9 (Vni)
in which is chosen from hydrogen atoms and methyl groups, R is an alkyl radical containing from
12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent, such as, for example, those comprising from 95% to
60% by weight of acrylic acid, i.e., a hydrophilic unit, 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate,
i.e., a hydrophobic unit, and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or 98% to
96% by weight of acrylic acid, i.e., a hydrophilic unit, 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, i.e.,
a hydrophobic unit, and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer; and
(ii) acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the product formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid
and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.
The said crosslinking agent is a monomer containing a group
with at least one other polymerizable group whose unsaturated bonds are not conjugated. Mention may
be made for example of polyallyl ethers such as polyallylsucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol.
Among the said polymers above, ones that may be used according to one embodiment are the products
sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names PEMULEN® TR1/PEMULEN® TR2,
CARBOPOL® 1382, such as, for example, PEMULEN® TRl, and the product sold by the company
S.E.P.C. under the name COATEX® SX.
As anionic amphiphilic fatty-chain polymers, mention may also be made of the ethoxylated copolymer
of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/alkyl dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate sold under the
name VISCOPHOBE® DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.
The cationic amphiphilic polymers disclosed herein may be chosen from at least one of quaternized
cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing amino side groups.
The quaternized cellulose derivatives comprise, for example, quaternized celluloses modified with at
least one group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups
containing at least 8 carbon atoms, and quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with at least one
group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, and alkylaryl groups containing at
least 8 carbon atoms.
Quaternized or non-quaternized polyacrylates containing amino side groups, have, for example,
hydrophobic groups, such as STEARETH® 20, comprising polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol,
and (C10-C3o)alkyl PEG-20 itaconate.
The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses may contain
from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
The aryl radicals may be chosen from phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, and anthryl groups.
Quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains may be chosen from one or
more of the products QUATRISOFT® LM 200, QUATRISOFT® LM-X 529-1 8-A, QUATRISOFT®
LM-X 529-18B, comprising C12 alkyls, and QUATRISOFT® LM-X 529-8, comprising C1 alkyls,
sold by the company Amerchol, and the products CRODACEL® QM, CRODACEL® QL,
comprising C1 alkyls, and CRODACEL® QS, comprising C1 alkyls, sold by the company Croda.
Polyacrylates comprising amino side chains may be chosen from at least one Starch.
Amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain,may be chosen from one or more
of copolymers of melhacrylamidopropyltrimemylammonium chloride/acrylic acid/C10-C3oalkyl
methacrylate, the alkyl radical for example being a stearyl radical.
In certain embodiments, the associative thickeners in the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein have,
in solution or in dispersion at a concentration of 1% active material in water, a viscosity, measured using
aRheomatRM 180 rheometer at 25° C., of greater than 0.1 ps, or for example ofgreater than 0.2 cp, at a
shear rate of 200 s 1.
(i) Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers that may be mentioned are those crosslinked with
an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the names
CARBOPOL® 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by the company Goodrich or the products sold under the
names SYNTHALEN® M and SYNTHALEN® K by the company 3 VSA.
(ii) Among the crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of -C6 alkyl acrylate that may be
mentioned is the product sold under the name VISCOATEX® 538C by the company Coatex, which is
a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing
38% active material, and the product sold under the name ACULYN® 33 by the company Rohm &
Haas, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion
containing 28% active material.
(iii) Among the nonionic homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one of ethylenically
unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers, mention may be made of
the products sold under the names: CYANAMER® P250 by the company Cytec, comprising
polyacrylamide; PMMAMBX-8C by the company U.S. Cosmetics, comprising methyl
methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymers; ACRYLOID® B66 by the company Rohm
& Haas, comprising butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers; and BPA 500 by the
company Kobo, comprising polymethyl methacrylate.
(iv) Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned is the product sold under
the name MICROSAP® PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst. Copolymers of ammonium acrylate and
of acrylamide may be, for example, chosen from one or more of the product sold under the name
Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst, which are described and
prepared for example in documents French Patent FR 2 416 723, and U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,798,053 and
2,923,692.
(v) The thickening polysaccharides may be chosen from at least one of glucans; modified or unmodified
starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, corn, and rice, from
vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato and cassava; amylose; amylopectin;
glycogen; dextrans; celluloses and derivatives thereof, such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses,
ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses; mannans; xylans; lignins; arabans;
galactans; galacturonans; chitin; chitosans; glucuronoxylans; arabinoxylans; xyloglucans;
glucomannans; pectic acids, pectins; alginic acid; alginates; arabinogalactans; carrageenans; agars;
glycosaminoglucans; gum arables; gum tragacanths; ghatti gums; karaya gums; carob gums; and
galactomannans, such as guar gums and nonionic derivatives thereof, for instant hydroxypropyl guar
and xanthan gums.
In general, the compounds of this type that may be used according to certain embodiments disclosed
herein are chosen from those described for example in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology",
Kjrk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers
in Nature" by E.A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp.
240-328, 1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L.
Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc. The content of these three publications is
incorporated by reference herein.
Starches, guar gums, celluloses, and derivatives thereof may, for example, be used.
The guar gums may be modified or unmodified.
Unmodified guar gums may be, for example, chosen from at least one of the products sold under the
name V OGUM® GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names MEYPRO®-GUAR 50
and JAGUAR® C by the company Meyhall.
The modified nonionic guar gums may be modified with - hydroxyalkyl groups.
Hydroxyalkyl groups may be, for example, chosen from one or more of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl,
hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are known in the prior art and can be
prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene
oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules
consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, may range from 0.4 to
1.2.
Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under
the trade names JAGUAR® HP8, JAGUAR® HP60, JAGUAR® HP120, JAGUAR® DC 293, and
JAGUAR HP 105 by the company RhodiaCelluloses may be, for example, chosen from at least one of
hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Mention may be made of the products sold
under the names KLUCEL® EF,KLUCEL® H, KLUCEL® LHF, KLUCEL® MR and KLUCEL®
G by the company Aqualon.
The fatty alcohols may be chosen from one or more of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol,
and behenyl alcohol.
Mineral thickeners may be chosen from one or more clays.
The viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited.
The viscosity can be measured at 25 °C with viscosimeters or rheometers preferably with coneplan
geometry. Preferably, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can
range, for example, from 1 to 2000 Pa.s, and preferably from 1 to 1000 Pa.s at 25 °C and I s 1.
The thickening agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and
preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, such as from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
[Other Ingredients]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of
other ingredients, known previously elsewhere in lightening or coloring compositions, such as various
common adjuvants, , antiageing agents, whitening agents, anti greasy skin agents, sequestering agents
such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, silicones other than those mentioned before
(such as with amine groups), preserving agents, vitamins or provitamins, for instance, panthenol,
opacifiers, fragrances, plant extracts, cationic polymers and so on.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic
solvent. So the organic solvent is preferably water miscible. As the organic solvent, there may be
mentioned, for example, -C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as
benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; analogous products; and mixtures thereof.
The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from less than 10% by weight,
preferably from 5% by weight or less, and more preferably from 1% by weight or less, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
[Other Aspects]
The present invention may also relate to a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or
micro-emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to
13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0;
(c) at least one hydrotrope, preferably at least one caffeine or at least one jasmonic acid
derivative; and
(d) water.
The definitions of the above nonionic surfactant and hydrotrope, as well as the jasmonic acid
derivative are the same as described above.
-
The above cosmetic composition has a dispersed phase which has a smaller diameter due to a
combination of the nonionic surfactant and the hydrotrope, in particular caffeine or at least one
j asmonic acid derivative. Therefore, the above cosmetic composition can be in the form of a nano- or
micro-emulsion with transparent or slightly translucent.
[Preparation and Properties]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above
essential and optional ingredients in accordance with a conventional process. The conventional
process includes mixing with a high pressure homogenizer (a high energy process). Alternatively, the
cosmetic composition can be prepared by a low energy processes such as phase inversion temperature
process (PIT), phase inversion concentration (PIC), autoemulsification, and the like.
The weight ratio of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the (a) oil may be from 0.3 to 6, preferably
from 0.4 to 3, and more preferably from 0.5 to 1.5. In particular, the weight ratio of the (b)
polyglyceryl fatty acid ester/the (a) oil is preferably 1.1 or less, such as from 0.3 to 1.1, preferably from
0.4 to 1.1, and more preferably from 0.5 to 1.1.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or
micro-emulsion.
The "micro-emulsion" may be defined in two ways, namely, in a broader sense and in a narrower sense.
That is to say, there are one case ("microemulsion in the narrow sense") in which the microemulsion
refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase containing a ternary system having
three ingredients of an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and the other case
("micro-emulsion in the broad sense") in which among thermodynamically unstable typical emulsion
systems the microemulsion additionally includes those such emulsions presenting transparent or
translucent appearances due to their smaller particle sizes (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., OilChemistry, Vol.
37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). The "micro-emulsion" as used herein refers to a "micro-emulsion in the
narrow sense," i.e., a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase.
The micro-emulsion refers to either one state of an O/W (oil-in-water) type microemulsion in which oil
is solubilized by micelles, a W/O (water-in-oil) type microemulsion in which water is solubilized by
reverse micelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant
molecules are rendered infinite so that both the aqueous phase and oil phase have a continuous structure.
The micro-emulsion may have a dispersed phase with a number average diameter of 100 nm or less,
preferably 50 nm or less, and more preferably 20 nm or less, measured by laser granulometry.
The "nano-emulsion" here means an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase with a size of less
than 350 nm, the dispersed phase being stabilized by a crown of the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and
the like that may optionally form a liquid crystal phase of lamellar type, at the dispersed
phase/continuous phase interface. In the absence of specific opacifiers, the transparency of the
nano-emulsions arises from the small size of the dispersed phase, this small size being obtained by
virtue of the use of mechanical energy and especially a high-pressure homogenizer.
Nanoemulsions can be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure. Specifically,
micro-emulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed from, for example, micells which
are formed by the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester micells and the like and are swollen with the (a) oil.
Furthermore, microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy in order to be prepared.
The micro-emulsion may have a dispersed phase with a number average diameter of 300 nm or less,
preferably 200 nm or less, and more preferably 100 nm or less, measured by laser granulometry.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W nano- or
micro-emulsion, a W/O nano- or micro-emulsion or a bicontinuous emulsion. It is preferable that the
cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O W nano- or
micro-emulsion.
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of an
O/W emulsion, and the (a) oil be in the form of a droplet with a number average particle size of 300 nm
or less, preferably from 10 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably 20 nm to 140 nm. The number
average particle size can be measured, for example, by a VASCO-2 (CORDOUAN
TECHNOLOGIES) under non-diluted conditions.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have a transparent or slightly
translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearacnce.
The transparency may be measured by measuring the transmittance with absorption spectrometer in the
visible region (for example, a V-550 (JASCO) with a 2 mm width cell as an average of visible light
transmittance (between 400 and 800 nm). The measurement is taken on the undiluted composition.
The blank is determined with distilled water.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may preferably have a transparency
greater than 50%, preferably greater than 60%, and more preferably greater than 70%, and even more
preferably greater than 80%.
[Process and Use]
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process,
such as a cosmetic process, for treating the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes,
the eyebrows and/or the scalp, by being applied to the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the
eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp.
The present invention also relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the present
invention, as it is or in care products and/or washing products and/or make-up products and/or
make-up-removing products for body and/or facial skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp
and/or the hair and/or the nails and/or the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.
In other words, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as the
above product. Alternatively, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used
as an element of the above product. For example the cosmetic composition according to the present
invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form the above product.
The care product may be a lotion, a cream, a hair tonic, a hair conditioner, a sun screening agent, and the
like. The washing product may be a shampoo, a face wash, a hand wash and the like. The make-up
product may be a foundation, a mascara, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a blusher, an eye shadow, a nail varnish,
and the like. The make-up-removing product may be a make-up cleansing agent and the like.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not
be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
(Particle Size) Particle size was measured with a VASCO-2 (CORDOUAN TECHNOLOGIES) with
non diluted condition.
(Transparency) Transparency was measured with a V-550 (JASCO) with 2 mm width cell as an average
of visible light transmittance (between 400 and 800 nm).
[Example 1 and Comparative Example 1]
The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, shown in Table 1,
were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows: (1) mixing isopropyl palmitate
and polyglyceryl-5 laurate to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 75 °C; (3) mixing
water and Vitamin B3, if used, to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into the oil
phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O/W emulsion. The numerical values for the amounts
of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
Table 1
(*) SUNSOFTA-121E (Taiyo Kagaku)
The aspect, particle size of oil droplet and transparency of the obtained O/W emulsions according to
Example 1 and Comparative Example 1are shown in Table 2.
Table 2
[Example 2 and Comparative Example 2]
The following compositions according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, shown in Table 3,
were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 3 as follows: ( 1) mixing isopropyl palmitate
and polyglyceryl-5 laurate to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 75 °C; (3) mixing
water and Vitamin B3, if used, to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into the oil
phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O Wemulsion. The numerical values for the amounts
of the components shown in Table 3 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
Table 3
(*) SUNSOFT A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku)
The aspect, particle size of oil droplet and transparency of the obtained O Wemulsions according to
Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 are shown in Table 4.
Table 4
[Example 3 and Comparative Example 3]
The following compositions according to Example 3 and Comparative Example 3, shown in Table 5,
were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 5 as follows: (1) mixing ethylhexyl palmitate
and polyglyceryl-5 laurate to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 75 °C; (3) mixing
water and Vitamin B3, if used, to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into the oil
phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O/W emulsion. The numerical values for the amounts
of the components shown in Table 5 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
Table 5
(*) SUNSOFT A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku)
The aspect, particle size of oil droplet and transparency of the obtained O/W emulsions according to
Example 3 and Comparative Example 3 are shown in Table 6.
Table 6
[Example 4 and Comparative Example 4]
The following compositions according to Example 4 and Comparative Example 4, shown in Table 7,
were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 7 as follows: (1) mixing ethylhexyl palmitate
and polyglyceryl-5 laurate to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 75 °C; (3) mixing
water and Vitamin B3, if used, to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into the oil
phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O/W emulsion. The numerical values for the amounts
of the components shown in Table 7 are all based on " by weight" as active raw materials.
Table 7
(*) SUNSOFT A-12 IE (Taiyo Kagaku)
The aspect, particle size of oil droplet and transparency of the obtained O/W emulsions according to
Example 4 and Comparative Example 4 are shown in Table 8.
Table 8
[Example 5 and Comparative Example 5]
The following compositions according to Example 5 and Comparative Example 5, shown in Table 9,
were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 9 as follows: (1) mixing isopropyl myristate
and polyglyceryl-5 oleate to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 75 °C; (3) mixing
water and Vitamin B3, if used, to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into the oil
phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O/W emulsion. The numerical values for the amounts
of the components shown in Table 9 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
Table 9
(*) SUNSOFT A-171E (Taiyo Kagaku)
The aspect, particle size of oil droplet and transparency of the obtained O/W emulsions according to
Example 5 and Comparative Example 5 are shown in Table 10.
Table 10
Example 5 Comparative Example 5
Aspect Transparent White
Particle size (nm) 77.03 1293.68
Transparency (%) 94.9 0
As is clear from the above results, it was found that the cosmetic compositions in the form of an O/W
emulsion according to the present invention had smaller oil droplets, and therefore, transparent or
slightly translucent aspect with better transparency was provided, due to the presence of Vitamin B3.
[Example 6 and Comparative Example 6]
The following compositions according to Example 6 and Comparative Example 6, shown in Table 11,
were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 11 as follows: ( 1) mixing ethylhexyl
palmitate and polyglyceryl-5 laurate to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 75 °C;
(3) rnixing water and Caffeine, if used, to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into
the oil phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O/W emulsion. The numerical values for the
amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
Table 11
(*) SUNSOFT A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku)
The aspect, particle size of oil droplet and transparency of the obtained O W emulsions according to
Example 6 and Comparative Example 6 are shown in Table 12.
Table 12
As is clear from the above results, it was found that the cosmetic composition in the form of an O/W
emulsion according to the present invention had smaller oil droplets, and therefore, transparent aspect
with better transparency was provided, due to the presence of Caffeine.
[Example 7 and Comparative Example 7]
The following compositions according to Example 7 and Comparative Example 7, shown in Table 13,
were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 13 as follows: (1) mixing isopropyl myristate
and polyglyceryl-5 laurate to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 75 °C; (3) mixing
water and Mexoryl SBO, if used, to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into the
oil phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O/W emulsion. The numerical values for the
amounts of the components shown in Table 13 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
Table 13
(*) SUNSOFT A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku)
The aspect, particle size of oil droplet and transparency of the obtained O/W emulsions according to
Example 7 and Comparative Example 7 are shown in Table 14.
Table 14
[Example 8 and Comparative Example 8]
The following compositions according to Example 8 and Comparative Example 8, shown in Table 15,
were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 15 as follows: (1) mixing isopropyl myristate
and polyglyceryl-5 laurate to form an oil phase; (2) heating the oil phase up to around 75 °C; (3) mixing
water and Mexoryl SBO, if used, to form an aqueous phase; and (4) adding the aqueous phase into the
oil phase followed by mixing them to obtain an O W emulsion. The numerical values for the
amounts of the components shown in Table 15 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
Table 15
Example 8 Comparative Example 8
Isopropyl myristate 2% 2%
PG5 laurate* 4% 4%
Mexoryl SBO 13.13% 0%
Water q.s. q.s.
pH 7 7
(*) SUNSOFT A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku)
The aspect, particle size of oil droplet and transparency of the obtained O/W emulsions according to
Example 8 and Comparative Example 8 are shown in Table 16.
Table 16
As is clear from the above results, it was found that the cosmetic composition in the form of an O W
emulsion according to the present invention had smaller oil droplets, and therefore, transparent aspect
with better transparency was provided, due to the presence of Mexoryl SBO (Jasminol).

CLAIMS
1. A cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, preferably with a polyglyceryl moiety derived
from 4 to 6 glycerins, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerins;
(c) at least one hydrotrope with logP between -0.7 and 6; and
(d) water.
2. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) oil is selected from the group
consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
3. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) oil is chosen from
hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at a room temperature.
4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, where the (a) oil is chosen
from oils with molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (a)
oil ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight, and more
preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) polyglyceryl
fatty acid ester has an HLB value of from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, and more
preferably from 10.0 to 13.0.
7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (b) polyglyceryl
fatty acid ester is chosen from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,
polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate
comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units.
8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (b) polyglyceryl
fatty acid ester raw material is chosen from a mixture of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably
with a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 3 to 6 glycerins, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerins,
wherein the mixture preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of a polyglyceryl fatty acid
ester with a polyglyceryl moiety consisting of 5 or 6 glycerins.
9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (b) polyglyceryl
fatty acid ester raw material comprises esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine containing 70% or
more of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 4 or more, preferably esters of a fatty acid
and polyglycerine containing equal to or more than 60% of polyglycerine whose polymerization
degree is between 4 and 11, and more preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerine
containing equal to or more than 30% of polyglycerine whose polymerization degree is 5.
10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the (b)
polyglyceryl fatty acid ester range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0,5 to 20% by
weight, and more preferably from 1to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1to 10, wherein the weight ratio of
the (b) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester to the (a) oil is from 0.3 to 6, preferably from 0.4 to 3, and
more preferably from 0.5 to 1.5.
12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1to 11, wherein the (c) hydrotrope is
chosen from compounds having logP from -0.7 to 6.0, preferably from -0.7 to 1.0 preferably
from -0.5 to 0.7 for non ionic hydropes, and preferably from -0.7 to 5.5 for ionic hydrotropes (e.g.
acidic hydrotropes).
13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the (c) hydrotrope is
selected from the group consisting of whitening agents, anti-aging agents, UV filters, keratolytic
and anti-bacterial agents.
14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the (c) hydrotrope is
selected from the group consisting of oxothiazolidinecarboxylic acid, Vitamin B3 and
derivatives thereof, preferably niacinamide, xanthine bases, preferably caffeine, camphor
benzalkonium methosulfate, ellagic acid, hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid, diethyllutidinate,
terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid, phloretine, acetyl
trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, resveratrol, apigenin, prasterone, benzophenone-3, butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane, capryloyl salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, andjasmonic acid
derivatives, preferably sodium tetrahydrojasmonate.
15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, wherein the (c)
hydrotrope is selected from the group consisting of caffeine, theophylline, theobromine,
acefylline and mixtures thereof.
16. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claim 1 to 14, wherein the (c) hydrotrope is a
jasmonic acid derivative, in particular represented by the formula (I):
(I)
wherein
Ri represents a COOR3 radical, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a alkyl radical optionally
substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical which is saturated or unsaturated, which is linear and which
has from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or which is branched or cyclic and which has from 3 to 18 carbon
atoms, or
an optical isomers or a salt thereof.
The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1to 14, wherein the (c) hydrotrope is
a jasmonic acid derivative represented by the following formula:
18. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1to 17, wherein the amount of the (c)
hydrotrope ranges from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and more
preferably from 1to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1to 18, further comprising at least
one nonionic surfactant different from the above (b) and/or at least one ionic surfactant.
20. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1to 19, further comprising at least
one polyol.
21. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1to 20, further comprising at least
one thickening agent, preferably selected from associative thickeners.
22. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 2 1, wherein the cosmetic
composition is in the form of an O W emulsion, and the (a) oil is in the form of a droplet with a
number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably from 10 nm to 150 nm.
23. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 22, wherein it has a transparency
greater than 50%, preferably greater than 60%, and more preferably greater than 70%.
24. Anon-therapeutic process for treating the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the nails, the
eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp, characterized in that the cosmetic composition
according to any one of Claims 1 to 23 is applied to the skin, the hair, mucous membranes, the
nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the scalp.
25. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 23, as or in care products
and/or washing products and/or make-up products and/or make-up-removing products for body
and/or facial skin and/or mucous membranes and/or the scalp and/or the hair and/or the nails
and/or the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.