Cosmetic composition comprising 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing 4-(3-ethoxy-4-
hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone and a particular organic solvent.
4-(3-Ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone is a useful substance as a preserving
agent for cosmetic compositions, for protecting the compositions against microbial
contamination.
However, this compound, which is in solid form at room temperature, is very
sparingly soluble in water or glycerol.
Now, it is necessary for this compound to be formulated in a solubilized form in
order to fully exploit its activity, and it is also preferable for its solubilization to be
maintained over time in order to avoid any recrystallization during storage of
compositions comprising such a compound.
The object of the present invention is, precisely, to propose a novel galenical
formulation of 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone that overcomes the
abovementioned drawbacks, and thus enables this compound to be incorporated
in a long-lasting solubilized form.
Specifically, the inventors have discovered, unexpectedly, that the combination of
4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone with at least one particular organic
solvent enables this compound to be solubilized while avoiding its recrystallization,
especially after storage for two months at room temperature (25°C).
More precisely, a subject of the invention is a composition, especially a cosmetic
composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, 4-(3-
ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone and an organic solvent with solubility
parameters in the Hansen solubility space such that 14,5 < a < 30 and 15 < <
20
as defined below.
A further subject of the invention is a process for the non-therapeutic cosmetic
treatment of keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of
a composition as described previously. The process may be a cosmetic process
for caring for, making up or cleansing keratin materials.
As specified hereinbelow, 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone is
advantageously present in the compositions in accordance with the invention in a
solubilized form.
4-(3-Ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone is a compound of formula:
The compound 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone may be present in the
composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0,01 % to 10% by
weight, better still from 0,1 % to 7% by weight, from 0,5% to 7% by weight, from
0,75% to 5% by weight and preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention comprises an effective amount of at
least one solvent with solubility parameters in the Hansen solubility space such
that:
14,5 < a < 30 and 15 < < 22
The global solubility parameter d according to the Hansen solubility space is
defined in the article "Solubility parameter values" by Eric A. Gruike in the book
"Polymer Handbook", 3rd Edition, Chapter VII, pp. 5 19-559, by the relationship:
d = (d2 = dϋ
2 + dr
2 +d 2) 2
in which:
- characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of
dipoles induced during molecular impacts,
- dr characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles, and
- 8 characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding,
acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.). The definition of solvents in the Hansen threedimensional
solubility space is described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The
three-dimensional solubility parameters", J . Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
The parameter d is defined by the following relationship: d 2 = dr
2 + = d2 - ¾2
The parameters ¾, dr, 0 h and d are expressed in (J/cm ) 2.
Preferably, the organic solvent has solubility parameters such that
14,5 < d < 28 and 5 < < 20
The organic solvent used according to the invention may be chosen from ethanol
(5a = 20,20; = 15,1 0), 1,2-propylene glycol ( a = 25,00; = 16,00), 1,3-
propanediol ( a = 26,32; = 18,00), PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol containing 8
ethylene glycol units) ( a = 14,80; ¾ = 1 ,90), propylene carbonate ( a = 18,46;
= 20,00); dipropylene glycol ( a = 19,48; 8d = 16,20), 1,2-hexylene glycol ( a =
19,20; = 16,40), PEG-4 polyethylene glycol containing 4 ethylene glycol units)
( a = 18,60; dϋ = 18,00).
Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-
propanediol, PEG-8 and propylene carbonate.
The solvent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a
content ranging from 0,05% to 30% by weight, better still from 0,05% to 10% by
weight, preferably ranging from 0,1 % to 5% by weight and preferentially ranging
from 0,1 % to 2,5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the organic solvent in accordance with the
invention and the 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone (referred to as the
compound) may be present in a solvent/compound mass ratio of less than or
equal to 10 , especially less than or equal to 5 , better still less than or equal to 4 ,
especially ranging from 0,5 to 4 and preferably ranging from 0,5 to 1,5.
The compositions used according to the invention contain a physiologically
acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with human keratin materials
such as the skin, the scalp, the hair and the nails.
The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of aqueous
solutions, aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, water-in-oil
(W/O) emulsions or multiple emulsions (triple: W/O/W or 0/W/O), or aqueous gels.
These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
The composition may comprise at least one oil. As oils that may be used,
examples that may be mentioned include:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids
containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid
triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil,
marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia
oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance
those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names
Miglyol 8 10 , 812 and 8 18 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea
butter oil;
- synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of
formulae R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which Ri represents a fatty acid residue
containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or
unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for
instance Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl
palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate;
hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate,
octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol
heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene
glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol
diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl
tetraisostearate;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or
non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes,
and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;
- fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-
butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl
alcohol;
- silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with
a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature,
especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as
cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl
groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups
containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, for instance phenyl
trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl
trimethylsiloxy silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
- mixtures thereof.
In the list of oils mentioned above, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil
mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluoro,
carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
The composition according to the invention may comprise substances that are
solid at room temperature (25°C), for instance fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30
carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes
such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes,
microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, and synthetic waxes such as
polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes.
These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by a person skilled in
the art so as to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example
in terms of consistency or texture.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition
according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.
The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5% to 80% by
weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The emulsions generally contain at least one emuisifier chosen especially from
amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture,
and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according
to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W). The emuisifier and the co-emulsifier
are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0,3% to 30%
by weight and preferably from 0,5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
For W/O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include
dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone
copolyol sold under the trade name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and
alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the lauryl dimethicone copolyol sold under the
name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning, and the
cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90® by the company
Goldschmidt. A crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane comprising at
least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of
Examples 3 , 4 and 8 of patent US-A-5 412 004 and of the examples of patent USA-
5 8 11 487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthesis example) of patent
US-A-5 412 004, such as the product sold under the reference KSG 2 1 by the
company Shin-Etsu, may also be used as surfactants for W/O emulsions.
For O/W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include
nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated)
fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan;
oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters;
oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alkyl ethers; sugar
esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof, such as the mixture of
glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate (polyethylene glycol stearate containing 40
ethylene glycol units).
The composition may be an aqueous gel, and may especially comprise common
aqueous gelling agents.
In a known manner, the composition according to the invention may also contain
adjuvants that are common in cosmetics or dermatology, such as gelling agents,
film-forming polymers, preserving agents, fragrances, fillers, UV-screening agents,
bactericides, odour absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, cosmetic and
dermatological active agents, and salts. The amounts of these various adjuvants
are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from
0,01 % to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the example that follows. The
amounts of the ingredients are expressed as weight percentages.
Example 1: Solubility test
The test solvent was poured into a beaker, an amount of the compound 4-(3-
ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone was added with magnetic stirring and the
mixture was left to stand for between 1 hour and 24 hours. The mixture was then
heated to 50°C and then cooled to room temperature (25°C) over 24 hours. The
system was then observed to see if the amount of compound introduced
recrystallized or remained dissolved.
The amount of compound that can be dissolved in the test solvent was determined
in this manner. The maximum value corresponds to the amount at and above
which the ester compound stops dissolving in the evaluated solvent.
The following results were obtained in several evaluated solvents:
It was thus found that 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone is very
satisfactorily dissolved with ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, PEG-8
and propylene carbonate, and is very sparingly dissolved with glycerol.
Example 2:
A facial care cream (oil-in-water emulsion) having the following composition was
prepared:
Sorbitan tristearate (Span 65 V from Croda) 0,9
Polyethylene glycol distearate (40 EO) 2
Cetyl alcohol 4
Glyceryl mono/distearate (36/64)/potassium stearate
mixture (Tegin Pellets from Goldschmidt) 3
Stearic acid 1,2
White petroleum jelly (mixture of liquid petroleum jelly,
microcrystalline wax and petroleum jelly)
(Vaseline Blanche Codex 236 from Aiglon) 4
Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Parleam from NOF
Corporation) 7,2
Myristyl myristate 2
Liquid fraction of shea butter (Shea Olein from Olvea) 1
Apricot kernel oil 0,3
Cyclopentasiloxane 5
Glycerol 3
Caffeine 0,1
4-(3-Ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone 1
1,3-Propanediol 5
Water qs 100%
The composition is stable and homogeneous after storage for 2 months
Example 3: Oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion in the form of oleosomes
A sun cream having the following composition was prepared:
Phase A
- 4-(3-Ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone 1
- 1,3-Propanediol 5
- Glycerol 5
- Water qs 100%
Phase B
- Polyoxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monostearate
(Tween 6 1 V from Croda) 1
- Sucrose tristearate (Ryoto Sugar Ester S 370 from
Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods) 2
- Diisopropyl sebacate 2,71
- Isononyl isononanoate 5,57
- 2-Ethylhexyl cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate 7
- Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 3
- Ethylhexyl salicylate 5
- Cyclohexasiloxane 1,72
- Sodium stearoylglutamate (Amisoft HS 11 PF from Ajinomoto) 0,75
Phase C
- Water 15
- Carboxyvinyl polymer (Synthalen K from 3V) 0,3
- Triethanolamine 0,3
Phase D:
- Water 6
- Xanthan gum (Rhodicare XC from Rhodia) 0,2
Phase E
- Aluminium salt of corn starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride
(Dry Flo Plus 28-1 160 from National Starch)
Phase F
PEG-12 dimethicone (Silsoft 880 from Momentive
Performance Materials)
Phase A was heated to between 80°C and 85°C.
Phase B was heated until all the fatty substances had fully melted (about 85°C).
Phase A was rapidly added to phase B with very vigorous stirring. The emulsion
was then subjected to high-pressure homogenization. Phases C to F were finally
added.
The emulsion obtained is in the form of oleosomes. After storage for 2 months at
45°C, the formulation is stable and homogeneous.
Example 4:
A shower gel having the following composition was prepared:
- Sodium lauryl ether sulfate as an aqueous solution
containing 70% active material .e. 10,5% AM)
- Glycerol 2
- 4-(3-Ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone 1
- 1,3-Propanediol 5
- Cocoylbetaine as an aqueous solution
containing 30% active material 5 (i.e. 1,5% AM)
- Water qs 100 %
After storage for 2 months at 45°C, the formulation is stable and homogeneous.
CLAIMS
1. Composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:
4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone and an organic solvent with solubility
parameters in the Hansen solubility space such that 14,5 < a < 30 and 15 < d <
22.
2 . Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the organic
solvent is chosen from ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, PEG-8
(polyethylene glycol containing 8 ethylene glycol units), propylene carbonate,
dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexylene glycol and PEG-4 (polyethylene glycol containing
4 ethylene glycol units).
3 . Composition according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol,
PEG-8 and propylene carbonate.
4 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the organic solvent is present in a content ranging from 0,05% to 30% by weight,
better still from 0,05% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0,1 % to 5% by
weight and preferentially ranging from 0,1 % to 2,5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
5 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone is present in a content ranging from
0„01 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0,1 % to 7% by weight, from 0,5% to 7%
by weight, from 0,75% to 5% by weight and preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the said organic solvent and the 4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone are
present in a solvent/4-(3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone mass ratio of less
than or equal to 10 , better still less than or equal to 5 , less than or equal to 4 ,
especially ranging from 0,5 to 4 and preferably ranging from 0,5 to 1,5.
7 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
it is in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water
emulsion.
8 . Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for caring for and/or making up
and/or cleansing keratin materials, comprising the application to the said keratin
materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.