The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of two particular types of silicones and one or more conditioning agents.
The invention also relates to the use of such composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, particularly human keratin fibres such as the hair. The composition of the present invention is particularly suitable for the cosmetic treatment of colored human keratin fibres. It is also particularly suitable to confer conditioning benefits, such as shine, and especially long-lasting conditioning benefits, such as long-lasting shine, to natural or treated hair, especially colored hair.
Many people are unsatisfied with the way their hair looks, and have difficulty in styling it. Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, but also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.
Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas.
Another problem encountered with dyed hair is that the color tends to wash away, that is to say the color fades when the hair is shampooed, which results in an undesired alteration of the initial color. Moreover, the shine of dyed hair generally decreases between two colorations.
To overcome the above drawbacks, it is common practice to use care compositions that condition the hair appropriately, giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties.

These hair care compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks or sera, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less thick. These compositions may be rinsed-out or leave-in compositions.
These compositions generally comprise a combination of conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones and/or fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, in order to give the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of softness, smoothness and suppleness.
Most of these compositions also comprise silicones. Indeed, these compounds are known to improve the cosmetic properties of hair, especially in terms of smoothness and flexibility, as shown in JP 48(1973)-19941, JP 56(1986)-92808, and US 5 374 421.
Indian patent application 158/KOL/2011 discloses a hair conditioning kit comprising two distinct compositions: a first composition comprising a bis-amino silicone, and a second composition comprising a bis-epoxy silicone, both formulated in an organic solvent selected from volatile silicones and short chain alkanes.
However, several disadvantages remain, in particular in the case of the treated hair, particularly dyed hair. Indeed, the known compositions do not afford achieving a sufficient protection of the color, and do not prevent the alteration of the color and shine, especially over washing.
Therefore, there is a real need to develop conditioning compositions that do not have the drawbacks described above, i.e. which are able to protect the color of dyed hair from treatments such as washing but also from the action of external atmospheric agents such as sunlight There is also a need for compositions that can confer shine, preferably long lasting shine to colored and non colored hair.
The Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition, comprising a combination of two particular types of silicones, namely a bis-amino silicone and a bis-epoxy silicone, each present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, as well as one or more

conditioning agents, makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.
Thus, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising:
(i) from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more bis-amino silicone(s) of formula (I):

R
-Si—0 R

R
-Si-R

(I)
wherein
- the Z groups, identical or different, each denote an
alkylamino group;
- the R groups, identical or different, denote saturated or
unsaturated alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or aryl groups comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms;
- n denotes a number of at least 10;
(ii) from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more bis-epoxy silicone(s) of formula (II):

Y-

R'
Si — O
I R'

R'
I
Si
I R'

Y

(iii)

(II)
wherein
- the Y groups, identical or different, each denote an alkyl or
alkyloxy group bearing an epoxy function;
- the R' groups, identical or different, denote saturated or
unsaturated alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or aryl groups comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms;
- m denotes a number of at least 10; and
one or more conditioning agent(s).

When applied onto dyed keratin fibres, the composition of the present invention allows sealing the color and protects the color from fading in particular upon washing.
Even better, the composition of the invention allows reviving the color of dyed hair that has been previously washed out.
Furthermore, the composition of the invention allows improving the cosmetic properties of the colored or non-colored hair, especially in terms of wet and dry combability, suppleness, smoothness, manageability and shine, without overloading the hair, or leading to a greasy feel or appearance. The hair treated with such a composition is particularly shiny, without being lank or heavy, or without having an oily appearance or feel.
Such conditioning benefits are particularly long lasting, and wash-resistant.
The invention also relates to the use of such composition for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin materials, in particular for the cosmetic treatment of dyed human keratin fibres such as in particular dyed hair.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In the present description and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
In the present invention, the term "keratin fibres" denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
Bis-amino silicones (i)
The composition of the present invention contains at least one bis-amino silicone of formula (I):

5

R Si R
Z
O
Z
R Si R
n
(I)
wherein
different, each denote
an
- the Z groups, identical or
alkylamino group;
5 - the R groups, identical or different, denote saturated or
unsaturated alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or aryl groups comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms; - n denotes a number of at least 10.
The bis-amino silicones of formula (I) do not contain any
10 quaternary ammonium group.
In formula (I) above, the Z groups preferably each denote a
linear or branched alkylamino group comprising from 1 to 12,
preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms and from 1 to 3 amino functions,
preferably 1 or 2 amino functions.
15 Non limiting examples of preferred Z groups include:
-C3H6-NH-C2H4-NH2;
-C2H4CH(CH3)-NH-C2H4-NH2;
-C4H8-NH-C3H6-NHC2H5;
-C2H4CH(CH3)-NH-C4H8-NH2;
20 -NH-C2H4-NH-C4H9;
-C3H6-NH2; and -C2H4CH(CH3)-NH2.
The R groups preferably denote linear or branched saturated
alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1
25 to 4 carbon atoms, and even more preferably the R groups all denote a
methyl group.
Preferably, n denotes a number ranging from 10 to 50, more preferably from 10 to 20.

6
The bis-amino silicone of formula (I) preferably has an amine number of at least 0.05 meq/g.
Most preferably, the bis-amino silicones are chosen from those
of formula (I), wherein the R groups all denote a methyl group, the Z
5 groups all denote a -C3H6-NH-C2H4-NH2 group, and n denotes a
number ranging from 10 to 50.
The composition contains said bis-amino silicone(s) of formula
(I) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably
from 0.2 to 4.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 4% by
10 weight, and even more preferably from 0,4 to 2.5% by weight, based
on the total weight of the composition.
The bis-amino silicones of formula (I) can be prepared following the synthesis scheme hereunder:

15
Bis-epoxy silicones (ii)
The composition of the present invention contains at least one bis-epoxy silicone of formula (II):

7

Y

R' Si R'

O

R'
Si R'

Y

m

(II)

5
10

wherein
- the Y groups, identical or different, each denote an alkyl or
alkyloxy group bearing an epoxy function;
- the R’ groups, identical or different, denote saturated or
unsaturated alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or aryl groups comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms;
- m denotes a number of at least 10.
In formula (II) above, the Y groups preferably each denote a liner or branched, cyclic or non cyclic alkyl or alkyloxy group containing from 1 to 12, preferably from 2 to 10, and even more preferably from 3 to 9 carbon atoms, and bearing an epoxy function.
Non limiting examples of preferred Y groups include:

15

O

(CH2)3
O / (CH2)3—O—CH CH2

20

and
O
/—(CH2)3—O—CH—CH—CH2

The R’ groups preferably denote linear or branched saturated alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms,

8
preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and even more preferably the
R’ groups all denote a methyl group.
Preferably, Y denotes
O
—(CH2)3— O—CH—CH—CH2
5 Preferably, m denotes a number ranging from 10 to 50, more
preferably from 10 to 20.
Most preferably, the bis-epoxy silicones are chosen from those
of formula (II), wherein the R groups all denote a methyl group, m
denotes a number ranging from 10 to 50 and the Y groups all denote:
O
/10 —(CH2)3—O—CH—CH—CH2
The composition contains said bis-epoxy silicone(s) of formula
(II) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably
from 0.2 to 4.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 4% by
15 weight, and even more preferably from 0,4 to 2.5% by weight, based
on the total weight of the composition.
The bis-epoxy silicones of formula (II) can be prepared following the synthesis scheme hereunder:

9

A process suitable for the preparation of the silicones of
formula (I) and (II) is described in the Indian patent application
5 158/KOL/2011.
The composition of the invention may contain said bis-amino
silicone(s) (i) and said bis-epoxy silicone(s) (ii) in a weight ratio
(i):(ii) preferably ranging from 1:10 to 10:1, more preferably from 1:5
to 5:1, more preferably from 1:2 to 2:1 and even more preferably from
10 1:1.1 to 1.1:1.
Conditioning agent(s) (iii):
The conditioning agents used in the composition of the present
invention are preferably chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic
15 polymers, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, solid fatty esters, non-silicone
liquid fatty substances (or non-silicone oils), silicones different from
the silicones of formula (I) and (II) above, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the conditioning agents are chosen from silicones different from the silicones of formula (I) and (II) above.

10

5

The composition of the present invention preferably contains said conditioning agent(s) in a total amount ranging from 5 to 99.8% by weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 7.5 to 99.7% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 99% by weight, preferably from 15 to 98% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 90% by weight.

Cationic surfactants
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
10 cosmetic composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants.
The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is
positively charged when it is contained in the composition according
to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive
permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions
15 in the composition according to the invention.
The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30
20 hydrocarbon-based chain, and preferably a C12-C22 alkyl chain.
As example of fatty amines, mention may be made of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be
mentioned include:
25 - quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV)

R 8\ /R 10
N
R
11
R

+

X

(IV)

wherein,
R8 to R11, which may

be identical or different, represent a linear or

30

branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an

11

aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that
5 chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl
sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates.
The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such
as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are
chosen, for example, from C 1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-
10 C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl,
(C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X- is an anion
chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-
C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), those
15 that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for
instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts
in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 16 to 22 carbon
atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium,
distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or
20 benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the
stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the
stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the
stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under
25 the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly
preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds.
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance, those of formula (V)
+
13
R

XC\ /CH2CH2 — N(R15)—CO— R12
K N
N / R 14
C—C
H2 H2

X

(V)

12

5
10
15

wherein, R12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1-C4 alkyl group; X-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups each preferably comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R 14 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R 15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (VI)

20
25

++
R
19
N R
20
R
17
R
R
(CH2)3
2X-
16
21
N R
18
(VI) approximately
n
from
wherein, R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 is chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and an (R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N-(CH2)3 group, R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

13
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VII)

R
24

O C

(OCrH2r)y

(CsH2sO)z R25
+ N
(CtH2tO)x
R
22

-
R23 X (IX)
(VII)

5
10
15
20
25

wherein,
groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl
dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group R26 C
branched, saturated or
- groups R27, which are linear or
unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is chosen from:
O
- the group R28 C
branched, saturated or
- groups R29, which are linear or
unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7-C21 hydrocarbon-based
groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging
from 2 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from
0 to 10;
X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;

14
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R 25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more
particularly linear.
5 Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or
dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon-based group, it may be long
and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may
10 have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is an R29 hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or
different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or uns aturated
15 C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
20 Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are
equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or
iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However,
use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an
25 anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any
other anion compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
The anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methyl
sulfate.
30 Use is made more particularly in the composition according to
the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (VII) wherein: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group; x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1;

15
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group R26 C
- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups;
5 - a hydrogen atom;
R25 is chosen from:
O
- the group R28 C
- a hydrogen atom;
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
10 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13-C17 hydrocarbon-based
groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear. Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of
15 formula (VII) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,
diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,
triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and
monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or
20 methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups
preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
25 These products are obtained, for example, by direct
esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an
alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are
optionally oxyalkylenated, with C 10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification
30 of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by
quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably

16
methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) sulfate,
methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol
chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names
5 Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company
Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for
example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and
10 triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US -A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
Use may be made of
15 behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, provided by Kao
under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one
20 ester function, which may be used, it is preferred to use
dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.
Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV) and mixtures thereof.
Better still, the cationic surfactants are chosen from
25 behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the total amount of cationic surfactants in the
composition of the present invention, when present, may range from
0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01 to 5% by weight,
and even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the
30 total weight of the composition.

17
Cationic polymers
According to another preferred embodiment of the invention,
the cosmetic composition comprises one or more one or more cationic
5 polymers.
The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer containing
cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups,
and not containing anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to
anionic groups; the cationic polymers of the invention do not comprise
10 Si (silicon) atom in their structure.
The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the
present invention may be chosen from any of those already known per
se for styling the hair, namely, especially, those described in patent
application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2
15 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
The preferred cationic polymers that may be used in the
composition according to the invention are chosen from those
containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or
quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer
20 chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
The cationic polymers preferably have a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 105, preferably greater than 106 and more preferably of between 106 and 108.
Among the cationic polymers that may be used in accordance
25 with the invention, mention may be made more particularly of
polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary
ammonium type.
The polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and
polyquaternary ammonium type that may be used in the composition
30 according to the present invention are especially those described in
French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
Among these polymers, mention may be made especially of:

18
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formulae (VIII), (IX), (X) and (XI) below:

X
X
5

R5
CH2 C
O
O A
N
R
R
R5
CH2-C — O =
NH
i
A N
R3 R4

(VIII)
(X)

R5
C
CH2
O
O A
N+ R8
R6
R7
R5
CH2 C
O
NH
A
R6 N+ R8
R7

(IX)
(XI)

wherein,
10 - R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
- R5, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or
a CH3 group,
15 - A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or
branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
- R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent an
alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group,

19
and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid,
preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide, and better still a chloride
5 or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more
units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family
of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides
and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower (C1-
10 C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams
such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
15 quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as
the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, described, for
example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name
20 Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba-Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the
name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl
25 acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under
the name Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example,
Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as
Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail
in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
30 - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone
terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers
sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,

20
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide
copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100
by the company ISP, and
- crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-
5 C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by
homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an
10 olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular
methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a
crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil. This
15 dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company
Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI name Polyquaternium-37), for example the polymer sold under the name Cosmedia Ultragel 300 by the company Cognis; or as a
20 dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester; these dispersions are sold
under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
(2) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent
alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branch ed
25 chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or
with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are especially described in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
(3) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by
30 polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine. These
polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer

21
resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is
reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-
haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a
bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in
5 proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the
polyaminoamide. These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are especially described in French patents
2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
10 (4) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the
condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids
followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be
made, for example, of adipic
acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which
15 the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably
denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are especially described in French patent 1 583 363.
Among these derivatives, mention may be made more
particularly of the adipic
20 acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold
under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(5) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from
25 diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from
3 to 8 carbon atoms. The mole ratio between the polyalkylene
polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the
polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin
in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine
30 group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such
polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961 347.
Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the

22

5

name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl-diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of
dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (XII) or (XIII):

(CH2)

k

(CH2)t

CR12

C(R12) CH2

CH2

CH

Y-

10
R

N


R
11

(XII)

(CH2)k

2
t
(CH )

CR12

C(R12) CH

CH2 .CH2

10

10
R

(XIII)

wherein, k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1
15 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group
preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C 1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate,
20 citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These
polymers are in particular described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.

23

R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made
more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
5 homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco
and its homologues of low weight-average molecular weights, and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name Merquat 550.
(7) The quaternary diammonium polymer in particular
10 containing repeating units corresponding to the formula (XIV):
RR
13 15
B
11
R
14 16
XX RR
N+ A1 N+ B
(XIV)
wherein,
15 - R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different,
represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles
20 optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or
alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group COOR17D or CONHR17D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group,
25 - A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20
carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl,
30 quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

24
A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring.
In addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B 1 may also denote a
5 group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-,
n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a
linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding
10 to one of the following formulae:
-(CH2-CH2-O)x -CH2-CH2-,
-[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-,
in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a
defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to
15 4 representing an average degree of polymerization,
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine
derivative,
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-,
where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or
20 else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-,
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
These polymers have a number-average molecular mass generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
25 Polymers of this type are especially described in French patents
2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.
30 Use may more particularly be made of polymers that are formed
from repeating units corresponding to formula (XV):

25

R
R
18
20
N+ (CH2)r N+ (CH2)
s
R19 XR21 X

(XV)

wherein, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different,
denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon
5 atoms approximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20
approximately, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A compound of formula (XV) that is particularly preferred is
that for which R18, R19, R20 and R21 represent a methyl radical and r =
10 3, s = 6 and X = Cl, called hexadimethrine chloride in INCI
nomenclature (CTFA).
(8) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers formed especially from units of formula (XVI):

15

RR
22 24
N+ (CH2)t NH CO (CH2)u CO NH (CH2)v N+ A
25
R23 X RX

(XVI)

wherein,
- R22, R23, R24 and R25, which may be identical or different,
represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl,
20 β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH group,
where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R22, R23, R24 and R25 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 25 and 6,
- v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide, and
- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-
CH2-CH2-.

26
Such compounds are especially described in patent application EP-A-122 324.
Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the
products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol®
5 175, sold by the company Miranol.
(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and/or of
vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names
Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 and Luviquat Excellence by the
company BASF.
10 (10) Cationic polysaccharides, preferably cationic celluloses
and galactomannan gums.
Among cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more
particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose
15 derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium
monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups are described in French patent 1 492 597. These
polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary
20 ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an
epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
The cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives
grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are
described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl
25 celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl
celluloses grafted especially with a
methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium,
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or
dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
30 A cationic cellulose copolymer that may especially be
mentioned is Polyquaternium-4, which is a copolymer of
hydroxyethylcellulose and of diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
Mention may also be made of associative celluloses such as
alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses quaternized with C 8-C30 fatty chains, such

27
as the product Quatrisoft LM 200®, sold by the company
Amerchol/Dow Chemical (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and the
products Crodacel QM® (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose
cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) (INCI name PG-
5 Hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS®
(C18 alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride) sold by the company Croda.
Mention may also be made of other fatty-chain hydroxyethylcellulose derivatives such as the commercial products
10 Softcat Polymer SL® such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the
company Amerchol/Dow chemical of INCI name Polyquaternium-67.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums
15 modified with a salt such as 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium
chloride are used, for example.
(11) Cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of
20 polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and
chitin derivatives.
The cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in particular, chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain, or grafted thereon. Their molecular
25 mass may vary, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in particular
from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention may be made especially of:
- collagen hydrolysates bearing triethylammonium groups, such
as the products sold under the name Quat-Pro E by the company
30 Maybrook and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Triethonium
Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate,
- collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride
and trimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, which are sold under

28
the name Quat-Pro S by the company Maybrook and are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen,
- animal protein hydrolysates bearing
trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the
5 name Crotein BTA by the company Croda and referred to in the CTFA
dictionary as Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein,
- protein hydrolysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on
the polypeptide chain, the said ammonium groups comprising at least
one alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
10 Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, inter
alia, of:
- Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
comprise a C12 alkyl group,
- Croquat M, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
15 comprise C10-C18 alkyl groups,
- Croquat S, in which the quaternary ammonium groups comprise a C18 alkyl group,
- Crotein Q, in which the quaternary ammonium groups comprise at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
20 These various products are sold by the company Croda.
Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to the formula (XVII):
CH3
R26 N+ R27 NH A X
CH3
(XVII)
25
wherein, X- is an anion of an organic or mineral acid, A denotes a
protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R26
denotes a lipophilic group comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, R 27
represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may
30 be made, for example, of the products sold by the company Inolex,

29
under the name Lexein QX 3000, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Cocotrimonium Collagen Hydrolysate.
Mention may also be made of quaternized plant proteins such
as wheat, corn or soybean proteins, for instance quaternized wheat
5 proteins. Mention may be made of those sold by the company Croda
under the names Hydrotriticum WQ or QM, referred to in the CTFA
dictionary as Cocodimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, Hydrotriticum
QL, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Laurdimonium hydrolysed
wheat protein, or else Hydrotriticum QS, referred to in the CTFA
10 dictionary as Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.
(12) Polyamines such as Polyquart R H sold by Cognis,
referred to under the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine
in the CTFA dictionary.
(13) Polymers comprising in their structure:
15 (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
CH2CHNH2 (A)
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B)
below:
20 CH2CHNHCOH (B)
In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular
from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units
derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived
25 from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers
comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units
corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units
corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to
30 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to
90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide.

30
This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer,
measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol,
5 preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from
100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from
2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly
from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
10 The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally
units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by
the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the
products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin
1095, Lupamin 9030 and Lupamin 9010.
15 When present, the total amount of cationic polymer(s) may
advantageously range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition.
20 Solid fatty alcohols
According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more solid fatty alcohols.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty
alcohol” means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
25 alcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and which is not
oxyalkylenated.
The fatty alcohols useful in the present invention are solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa).
The fatty alcohols are preferably chosen from the compounds
30 of general formula (III)
R-OH (III)
wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 3 0

31
carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
R preferably denotes a linear or branched C8-C30, more
preferentially C16-C22 alkyl or a linear or branched C8-C30, more
5 preferentially C16-C22 alkenyl group, and better still linear. R may be
substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
Examples of fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include cetyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl
alcohol, alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
10 The fatty alcohol may be present as a mixture of fatty alcohols,
which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, for example in a commercial product.
Fatty alcohol mixtures that may be mentioned include
cetylstearyl (or cetearyl) alcohol.
15 Among all the fatty alcohols that may be used according to the
invention, use is preferably made of one or more fatty alcohols chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.
When present, the total amount of solid fatty alcohol(s) in the
20 composition of the present invention may advantageously range from
0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and
more preferentially from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
25 Solid fatty esters and waxes:
The composition of the invention may contain one or more fatty substances that are solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa) chosen from fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters and non-silicone waxes.
30 The ester(s) of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols that may be
used according to the invention are generally chosen from solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
Examples that may preferably be mentioned include
octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl

32
octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl
stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl
myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl
myristate, and hexyl stearate.
5 The non-silicone wax(es) are chosen especially from carnauba
wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax and absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by the company Bertin (France), and animal waxes, such as
10 beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides or
analogues.
When present, the total amount of solid fatty esters and non-silicone waxes may advantageously range from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferentially from
15 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Non silicone liquid fatty substances
According to another preferred embodiment of the invention,
the cosmetic composition comprises one or more non-silicone oil(s),
20 that is to say one or more non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid
at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105
Pa).
The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is
insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric
25 pressure (1.013*105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less
than 1% and even more preferentially of less than 0.1%). They have in
their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least
6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble
in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure
30 conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon
tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
In addition, the liquid fatty substances of the present invention are nonpolyoxyethylenated and nonpolyglycerolated.

33
The term "oil" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa).
The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil not containing any
silicon atoms (Si).
5 More particularly, the liquid fatty substances can be chosen
from C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons containing more
than 16 carbon atoms, oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or
synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid
and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and mixtures
10 thereof.
It is recalled that the fatty esters and acids more particularly
have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 and better still from 8 to
30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with
15 one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are
unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
As regards the C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, they are more
particularly linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably
20 C6-C16 alkanes, more preferably C11-C15 alkanes. Examples that may
be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
The linear or branched liquid hydrocarbons of mineral or
25 synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably
chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly,
mineral oil, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as
Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
By way of hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, mention
30 may be made of perhydrosqualene.
The triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, more particularly from those present in plant oils, for

34
instance coconut oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil,
grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia
oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil or
synthetic caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance th ose sold by
5 the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names
Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and mixtures thereof.
Fluoro oils that may be mentioned include
perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane,
10 sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company
BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane;
perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and
tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060®
by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name
15 Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and
nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
The liquid fatty alcohols that may be used are chosen from
20 non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols comprising
from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated.
The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched.
They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic
25 or non-aromatic ring, which is preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the saturated liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
Octyldodecanol and 2-decyltetradecanol are most particularly
30 preferred.
The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.

35
These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols that
5 may be used in the invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl
alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
As regards the liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters
advantageously other than the triglycerides mentioned above and non -
10 silicone waxes, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated
or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic monoacids
or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1-C26 or branched
C3-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon
number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more
15 advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl
behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12-
C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate;
oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl
20 octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl
laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl
isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl
stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate;
octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate;
25 ethyl and isopropyl palmitates; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl
palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-
octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl
stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl
laurate, and mixtures thereof.
30 Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22
dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

36
Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate;
diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl
adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;
octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;
5 pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; p entaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;
propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl
erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate;
glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate;
10 propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled
15 that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based
compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
20 Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include
sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
25 The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from
the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three conjugated or
30 non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates,

37
caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and
in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleopalmitate, -
5 linoleate, -linolenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, of glucose or of
methylglucose.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under
the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a
methylglucose dioleate.
10 Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty
acid that may also be mentioned include:
- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90,
F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose
palmitate/stearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and
15 triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester,
from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
20 - the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for
example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-triester-polyester;
- the sucrose mono-dipalmitate/stearate sold by the company
Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.
25 Preferably, the non silicone liquid fatty substances are chosen
from C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, triglycerides of plant origin, esters
of fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
When they are present, the amount of the non-silicone liquid
fatty substances advantageously ranges from 0.1 to 95% by weight,
30 preferably from 0.5 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to
50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

38
Silicones
The composition according to the present invention may further
contain one or more additional silicones, different from the bis-amino
5 silicones of formula (I) and from the bis-epoxy silicones of formula
(II) described above. Such additional silicones can be chosen in particular from non-amino silicones, amino silicones and mixtures thereof.
In the present invention, the term “silicone” is intended to
10 denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any
organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or
crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by
polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized
silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in
15 which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane
bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals
being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The
hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl
radicals, especially C 1-C10 alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl,
20 fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is C1-C10, and aryl
radicals and in particular phenyl.
According to the present invention, the term “non-amino
silicone” denotes any silicone not containing at least one primary,
secondary or tertiary amine, or a quaternary ammonium group.
25 The non-amino silicones, which can be used in the composition
according to the invention, are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter
Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
30 The silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

39
(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 6 silicon atoms.
These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
5 Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure:

10
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with
organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of
octamethyl-cyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)-
pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclo-
15 tetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethyl-
silyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, more preferably 3 to 7 silicon atoms, most preferably 4 to 6 silicon atoms, and preferably having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-
20 6 m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in
particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
25 When the silicones are non-volatile, use is preferably made of
polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.

40
These silicones are more particularly chosen from
polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups
(Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having preferably a
5 viscosity of from 5×10-6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C and preferably 1×10-5 to
1 m2/s, and more preferably from 10-4 to 8.10-1 m2/s, and most
preferably from 2.10-4 to 5.10-1 m2/s (i.e. 200 to 500 000 cSt). The
viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according
to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
10 Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a
non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil
oils sold by the company Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500
000,
15 - the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia,
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning,
such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt,
- the Viscasil oils from the company General Electric and
certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company General
20 Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
Mention could be made of dimethiconol emulsions, for example
25 with anionic surfactants, preferably having a low particle size such as
less than 500nm, preferably less than 200 nm.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing a,ro-silanol groups.
In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be
30 made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801
by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-C20)alkylsiloxanes.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear
and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1×10-5 to

41
5×10-2m²/s at 25°C, preferably from 10-5 to 10-3 m2/s, and most preferably from 2.10-5 to 5.10-4 m2/s (i.e. 20 to 500 cSt).
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be
mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
5 - Silbione oils of the 70 641 series from the company Rhodia,
- the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from the company Rhodia,
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from the company Dow Corning,
10 - silicones of the PK series from the company Bayer, such as
the product PK20,
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from the company
Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000,
- certain oils of the SF series from the company General
15 Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Mention could also be made of phenyltrimethicones.
The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and
20 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be
chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils ,
polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins,
polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and
tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
25 Mention may be made more particularly of the following
products:
- polydimethylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane gums,
30 - polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums.
Products that may be used more particularly are the following mixtures:

42
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at
the end of the chain (known as dimethiconol according to the
nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic
polydimethylsiloxane (known as cyclomethicone according to the
5 nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 1401
sold by the company Dow Corning,
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a
cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the
company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum
10 corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular
weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
- mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more
particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF
15 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a
mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5×10-6 m²/s. This product preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the
20 composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane
systems containing the following units: R 2SiO2/2, R3SiO1/2, RSiO3/2 and SiO4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1-C4
25 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
30 Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type
resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above

43
and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of
polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
5 - polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally
comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as
dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the
name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the
company Union Carbide, and the (C12)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by
10 the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200, or in particular
the silicone of INCI name PEG-12 dimethicone such as the product XIAMETER OFX-0193 FLUID sold by Dow Corning.
- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names
GP 72 A and GP 71 from the company Genesee,
15 - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name
Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt,
- hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes
containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent
20 application FR 2 589 476,
- acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732,
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, for instance in the products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company Chisso
25 Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in
the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulphate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255.
According to the invention, silicones comprising a
30 polysiloxane portion and a non-silicone organic chain portion, one of
the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto the said main chain, can also be used. These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP -A-412,704, ep-a-412,707, ep-a-640,105 and WO95/00578, ep-a-582,152

44
and WO93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by reference herein. These polymers are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
Such polymers are, for example, copolymers, which may be
5 obtained by radical polymerization from a monomer mixture
comprising:
a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;
b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula:
10 wherein,
V is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being
calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular,
polydimethylsiloxane (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a
15 connecting chain of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the
poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polyalkyl(methyl)acrylate type
and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) on which are grafted, via a
connecting chain of thiopropylene type, polymer units of the
polyisobutyl(meth)acrylate type.
20 The non-amino silicones, which can be used in the present
invention preferably have a viscosity equals to 60 000 cst at 25°C and
shear rate 1s-1.
The viscosity may be measured at 25°C with viscosimeters or
rheometers preferably with cone-plan geometry.
25 The silicones used in the composition of the invention may
also be chosen from amino silicones.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “amino
silicone” means any silicone comprising at least one primary,
secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
30 The amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic
composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:
(R1)a(T)3-aSi[OSi(T)2]n[OSi(T)b(R1)2-b]mOSi(T)3-a(R1)a (XVIII)

45
wherein,
- T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C1-C8 alkyl
group, and preferably methyl, or a C1-C8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
5 - a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,
- b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149,
10 and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1
to 10, and
- R1 is a monovalent group of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number
from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen
from the following groups:
15 -N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N(R2)2;
-N(R2)2,
-N+(R2)3 Q-,
-N+(R2) (H)2 Q-, -N+(R2)2HQ-,
20 -N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N+(R2)(H)2 Q-,
wherein, R2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a
saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C1-C20
alkyl group, and Q- represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride,
chloride, bromide or iodide.
25 In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the
definition of formula (XVIII) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (XIX) below:

46

CH3
R Si
CH3

O

CH3
Si
3
CH

n

R'
O Si
A

CH3
O Si R"
CH3

NH I
(CH2)2

m

2
NH

(XIX)

wherein, R, R’ and R”, which may be identical or different, denote a
C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH3; a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably
5 methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C 3-C8 and
preferably C3-C6 alkylene group; m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
According to a first possibility, R, R’ and R”, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A
10 represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight-
average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as “amodimethicones”.
According to a second possibility, R, R’ and R”, which may be
15 identical or different, each represent a C 1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl
group, at least one of the groups R or R” is an alkoxy group and A represents a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of
20 the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is
between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker.

47
According to a third possibility, R and R”, which are different,
each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the
groups R or R” being an alkoxy group, R’ representing a methyl group
and A representing a C 3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole
5 ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal
to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
10 More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid
WR® 1300 sold by the company Wacker.
Note that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; µ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/minute;
15 200 µl of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are
injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV -metry).
A product corresponding to the definition of formula (XIX) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as Trimethylsilyl Amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (XX)
20 below:

(CH3)3 SiO

CH3
SiO
CH3

n

CH3
SiO
CH2
CHCH3
CH2
NH
(CH2)2 NH2

Si(CH3)3
m

(XX)

48

5

for example, in patent sold, for example, under
EP the
wherein, n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with formula (XVIII).
Such compounds are described, 95238. A compound of formula (XX) is name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (XXI) below:

3
R3
R3 Si
R3

R4
O Si
R3

Q-
CH2 CHOH CH2 N+ (R 3 )
R3
Si
R3
R3
O
O
Si R
R3
r
s

(XXI)

10 wherein,
- R3 represents a C1-C18 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
- R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a C1-C18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1-C18, and for example C1-C8,
15 alkylenoxy group,
- Q- is a halide ion, in particular chloride;
- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8, and
- s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular
20 from 20 to 50.
Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US-4 185 087.
A compound falling within this class is the product sold by the
company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
25 (c) quaternary ammonium silicones especially of formula
(XXII):

49

R

OH

R

R7

-2X

R7

2
8
R N CH
R7

6
CH-CH-R — Si-O
R7

r

+
Si R6 CH2 CHOH CH2 N R8
R
7
7
R
(XXII)

wherein,
- R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent
5 hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in
particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a C1-
C18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1-C18, and for example C1-C8,
10 alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
- R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom,
a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon
atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group
or a group -R6-NHCOR7;
15 - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an
organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); and
- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular
from 5 to 100.
These silicones are described, for example, in patent
20 application EP-A-0 530 974.
d) the amino silicones of formula (XXIII) below:

Si (CnH2n)
NH (CmH2m)
NH2

O

R1 Si R2

O

x

R3
Si
R4

R5

3

(XIII)

(XXIII)

50
wherein,
- R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-
C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
5 - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous
10 embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic
surfactants.
By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under
the name Cationic Emulsion DC939 by the company Dow Corning, a
cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a
15 nonionic surfactant of formula C13H27-(OC2H4)12-OH, known under the
CTFA name Trideceth-12.
Another commercial product that may be used according to the
invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by
the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, trimethylsilyl
20 amodimethicone of formula (XX) described above, a nonionic
surfactant of formula C8H17-C6H4-(OCH2CH2)40-OH, known under the
CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula
C12H25-(OCH2-CH2)6-OH, known under the CTFA name Isolaureth-6,
and propylene glycol.
25 The silicones of the invention may also be silicones grafted
with anionic groups, such as the compounds VS 80 or VS 70 sold by
the company 3M.
Preferentially, the amino silicones used in the present
invention are the products sold under the names DC 8194, DC 8299,
30 DC 1689, DC 5-7113, DC 8500, DC 8566, DC8170 and DC 8401 by the
company Dow Corning.
According to the invention, the silicones may be used in the
form of emulsions, typically having particle size ranging from 50 nm

51
to 10 µm, more preferably from 100 nm to 1 µm, and even more preferably from 200 to 500 nm.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the
invention, the composition contains one or more non-amino silicones
5 as described above.
Preferably, the composition comprises one or more
conditioning agents chosen from:
- volatile silicones and in particular cyclic silicones with 3 to 7
silicon atoms and/or linear silicones with 3 to 7 silicon atoms,
10 - polyalkylsiloxanes and in particular non volatile
polydimethylsiloxanes, preferably having a viscosity at 25°C of from 5×10-6 to 2.5 m2/s , preferably 1×10-5 to 1 m2/s, and more preferably from 10-4 to 8.10-1 m2/s, and most preferably from 2.10-4 to 5.10-1 m2/s (i.e. 200 to 500 000 cSt);
15 - polyarylsiloxanes and/or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, preferably chosen
from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, and preferably having a viscosity at 25°C of from 1×10-5 to 5×10-2m²/s at 25°C, preferably from 10-5 to 10-3 m2/s, and most preferably from 2.10-5 to 5.10-4
20 m2/s (i.e. 20 to 500 cSt),
- Phényltriméthicones,
- and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the composition may contain conditioning agents
25 chosen from cyclic silicones with 3-7 silicon atoms, phenyltrimethicones,
and their mixture.
When they are present in the composition of the invention, the silicones
different from the silicones of formula (I) and (II) advantageously
represent a total amount ranging from 5 to 99.8% by weight, preferably
30 from 7.5 to 99.7% by weight, more preferentially from 10 to 99% by
weight, better from 15 to 98% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

52
Surfactants
The composition according to the present invention may further
optionally comprise one or more surfactants different from the cationic
5 surfactants described above, and in particular surfactants chosen from
anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic and non ionic surfactants, and
preferably chosen from non ionic surfactants.
The nonionic surfactants that may be present in the composition of the present invention are especially described, for
10 example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by
Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are especially chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty α-diols, fatty (C1-C20)alkylphenols and fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and containing at least one fatty chain
15 comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of
ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 1 to 30.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide
20 and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides
preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of
25 sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-
C24)alkylpolyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkylamine oxides or N-(C10-C14)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
30 The non ionic surfactants may be present in an amount ranging
from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains less than 5% by weight of anionic surfactants,

53
preferably less than 1% by weight, and most preferably less than 0.5% by weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition.
Solvent
5 The composition according to the present invention may
optionally further contain one or more solvent(s) chosen from water
and organic solvents chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as
ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2 -
butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol
10 monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl
ether, and mixtures thereof.
The composition may contain such a solvent in an amount
preferably ranging from 1 to 90% by weight, more preferentially from
5 to 90% by weigh, and better still from 10 to 50% by weight, relative
15 to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention
may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the
20 compounds of the invention.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention,
mention may be made of solid fatty substances, anionic, nonionic or
amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, thickening such as in
particular polymeric thickening agents, antidandruff agents, anti-
25 seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting
hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol,
sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers,
solubilizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers or nacreous agents,
antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
30 Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to
select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the
advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition
according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely
affected by the envisaged addition(s).

54
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5 In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention
comprises a catalyst, to trigger the reaction between the two silicones
of formula (I) and formula (II). Said catalyst may be chosen among
amine derivatives, preferably tertiary amines such as triethanolamine.
Such catalyst may be present in an amount ranging from 0,001 to
10 0,05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
preferably from 0,005 to 0,03% by weight, more preferably from 0,01 to 0,02% by weight.

15
20

The invention is particularly useful to improve the conditioning of the hair, specially the shine of color or natural hair, specially to give an instant and long-lasting shine (resistant to at least 5 washes). The invention also helps to confer color protection to colored hair, such as protection against color fading and/or revival of the color.
In that objective, a preferred cosmetic composition comprises: (a) from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more bis-amino silicone(s) of formula (I):

R Si R
25

R
Z
Z
Si O
R
n
(I)
wherein the R groups all denote a methyl group, the Z groups all denote a -C3H6-NH-C2H4-NH2 group, and n denotes a number ranging from 10 to 50; (b) from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more bis-epoxy silicone(s) of formula (II):

55

Y

R' Si R'

O

R'
Si R'

Y

m
(II)
wherein the R’ groups all denote a methyl group, m denotes a
number ranging from 10 to 50 and the Y groups all denote
O
/—(CH2)3— O—CH—CH—CH2
5 (c) one or more conditioning agent(s) chosen from:
- polyalkylsiloxanes and in particular non volatile
polydimethylsiloxanes, preferably having a viscosity at 25°C of from
5×10-6 to 2.5 m2/s , preferably 1×10-5 to 1 m2/s, and more preferably
from 10-4 to 8.10-1 m2/s, and most preferably from 2.10-4 to 5.10-1 m2/s
10 (i.e. 200 to 500 000 cSt);
- polyarylsiloxanes and/or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, and
preferably chosen from linear and/or branched
polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes preferably with a viscosity of from
15 1×10-5 to 5×10-2m²/s at 25°C, preferably from 10-5 to 10-3 m2/s, and
most preferably from 2.10-5 to 5.10-4 m2/s (i.e. 20 to 500 cSt);
- phenyltrimethicones;
- and mixtures thereof,
preferably present in a total amount ranging from 5 to 99.8%
20 by weight, more preferably from 7.5 to 99.7% by weight, more
preferentially from 10 to 98% by weight, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The invention is also particularly useful to deliver instant and
long-lasting benefits to the hair, without undesired greasiness effect. It
25 is possible to obtain, for example, instant and long-lasting shine,
without a greasy, or oily, feel.
In that objective, a preferred cosmetic composition comprises:

56

(a) from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of composition, of one or more bis-amino silicone(s) of formula (I):

the

R Si R
5

Z
O
Z
R Si R
n
(I)
wherein the R groups all denote a methyl group, the Z groups all denote a -C3H6-NH-C2H4-NH2 group, and n denotes a number ranging from 10 to 50;
R'
Si R'
(b) from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more bis-epoxy silicone(s) of formula (II):
Y
Y
O
R' Si R'

10
15
20

m
(II)
wherein the R’ groups all denote a methyl group, m denotes a
number ranging from 10 to 50 and the Y groups all denote
O
/—(CH2)3— O—CH—CH—CH2
(c) one or more conditioning agent(s) chosen from volatile silicones and in particular volatile cyclic silicones with 3 to 7 silicon atoms and/or volatile linear silicones with 3 to 7 silicon atoms,
preferably present in a total amount ranging from 5 to 99.8% by weight, more preferably from 7.5 to 99.7% by weight, more preferentially from 10 to 98% by weight, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, such a composition further comprises one or more C6-C16 linear or branched liquid hydrocarbon(s), preferably one or more C6-C16 linear or branched alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane,

57
cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
5 According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition of
the invention consists of two intermediate compositions:
(a) a first intermediate composition containing one or
more bis-amino silicone(s) (i) of formula (I) as described above in an
amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of
10 said first and second intermediate compositions;
(b) a second intermediate composition containing one or
more bis-epoxy silicone(s) (ii) of formula (II) as described above in an
amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of
said first and second intermediate compositions;
15 said first and/or said second intermediate composition further
containing at least one conditioning agent as described above.
According to a preferred embodiment, said bis-amino
silicone(s) (i) and said bis-epoxy silicone(s) (ii) are present in a
weight ratio (i):(ii) preferably ranging from 1:10 to 10:1, more
20 preferably from 1:5 to 5:1, more preferably from 1:2 to 2:1 and even
more preferably from 1:1.1 to 1.1:1.
The invention further relates to a multi-compartment container
or kit, suitable for preparing the composition of the invention. Such a
kit contains at least two distinct compartments:
25 (a) at least one compartment containing a first
intermediate composition as disclosed above;
(b) at least one compartment containing a second
intermediate composition as disclosed above.
The composition of the invention is prepared by
30 extemporaneous mixing said first and second intermediate
compositions.
The invention also relates to the use of the composition for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibres, such as hair, and in

58
particular treated hair, such as dyed hair. The invention specifically
concerns the use of such a composition for protecting the color of dyed
hair from fading, and/or for reviving the color of dyed hair, and/or for
giving shine to hair or improving the shine of the hair.
5 Likewise, the invention concerns a method of cosmetic
treatment of dyed human keratin fibres, wherein a composition a defined above is applied onto said keratin fibres.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.
The composition may be left on the keratin fibres, or, after an
10 optional leave-on time, removed it by rinsing.
The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is not
15 removed (not rinsed).
At last, the invention concerns a process of treatment of human keratin fibres comprising:
(1) a step of dying of said keratin fibres, followed by
(2) a step of application onto the dyed fibres of the 20 composition defined above.
Such a process allows achieving a particularly long lasting and resistant dyeing of the keratin fibres.
The hair may be rinsed and/or shampooed between steps (1)
and (2) above.
25 Step (2) shall be preferably carried out in a time period ranging
from 1 minutes to 5 hours after step (1), preferably from 5 minutes t o 1 hour.
The dyed human keratin fibres (particular dyed hair) treated
using the composition of the invention can be fibres that have been
30 dyed with oxidation dyes, or with direct dyes, or both.
Likewise, the dying step (1) mentioned above can be a step o f permanent dying (or oxidation dyeing) using a dye composition containing oxidation dye precursors, or a step of semi -permanent

59
dying (or direct dyeing) using a dye composition containing direct dyes.
The permanent dying methods involve the application onto
keratin fibres of dye compositions containing oxidation dye
5 precursors, which are generally known as oxidation bases, such as
ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or
heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-
pyridines. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured
compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give
10 rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
The shades obtained with these oxidation bases may be varied
by combining them with couplers or colour modifiers, the latter being
chosen especially from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols,
meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole or
15 pyridine compounds. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases
and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
The oxidation dyeing process consists in applying to keratin
fibres a dye composition comprising oxidation bases or a mixture of
oxidation bases and couplers with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2 or aqueous
20 hydrogen peroxide solution), as oxidizing agent, in leaving it to
diffuse, and then in rinsing the fibres.
The semi-permanent dying methods involve the application
onto keratin fibres of dye compositions containing direct dyes which
are coloured and colouring molecules that have an affinity for the
25 fibres. Such direct dyes can be for example of the nitrobenzene type,
anthraquinone or nitropyridine dyes, and dyes of the azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane type.
These dyes are usually applied to keratin fibres optionally in the
presence of an oxidizing agent if it is desired to obtain simultaneous
30 lightening of the fibres. Once the leave-on time has elapsed, the fibres
are rinsed, optionally washed and dried.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is used on hair that has been dyed using an oxidation dyeing method.

60
The examples that follows serves to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the
5 amounts are given as mass percentages of active material relative to
the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, “qsp” means “qsp of the phase”.
EXAMPLES 10
Example 1
The following composition was prepared (phase A and phase B separately): 15
Phase A (% active matter by weight)

Phase A1
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5
Bis-aminoethylaminopropyl dimethicone* 1.6
Cyclopentasiloxane 6
Cyclohexasiloxane Qsp 100
Triethanolamine 0.02
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 16
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 7
Dimethiconol 2.8
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.6
*compound of formula (I) in which the R groups all denote a methyl group and the Z groups all denote a -C3H6-NH-C2H4-NH2 group
20
Phase B (% active matter by weight)

Phase B1
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5

61

Bis-glycidoxy dimethicone * 1.6
Cyclopentasiloxane 6
Cyclohexasiloxane Qsp 100
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 16
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 7
Dimethiconol 2.8
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.6
which the R’ groups all denote a methyl
*compound of formula (II) in group, the Y groups all denote
O
O—CH —CH—CH2
(CH )
23

follows: were mixed
5 The composition was prepared as
at 30°C for 15
All the ingredients of phase A minutes, to get phase A.
All the ingredients of phase B were mixed separately at 30°C
for 15 minutes, to get phase B.
10 Both phase A and phase B (50/50 by weight) were filled
separately in a dual-chambered pump bottle which allow to deliver the two phases simultaneously in a 1 : 1 weight ratio.
The composition of example 1 was compared with a
15 commercial conditioning composition in the form of an oily serum.
The composition of the invention provided better longer lasting effects such as softness, smoothness, shine and detangling of the hair.

20

Example 2
The following composition was prepared (phase A and phase B separately):

Phase A (% active matter by weight) 25

62

Phase A2
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cst) 5
C13-C15 alkane Qsp 100
Bis-aminoethylaminopropyl dimethicone* 2.4
Cyclopentasiloxane 6
Cyclohexasiloxane 50.5
Triethanolamine 0.03
Dimethicone (2 cst) 2.7
Dimethicone (60 000 cst) 7
Dimethiconol 1
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.9
*compound of formula (I) in which the R groups all denote a methyl group and the Z groups all denote a -C3H6-NH-C2H4-NH2 group.
Phase B (% active matter by weight)

5

Phase B2
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5
C13-C15 alkane Qsp 100
Bis-glycidoxy dimethicone * 2.4
Cyclopentasiloxane 6
Cyclohexasiloxane 50.5
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 2.7
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 7
Dimethiconol 1%
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.9

*compound of formula (II) in group, the Y groups all denote

which the R” groups all denote a methyl
o

(CH2)3 O CH2 CH CH2

10

The composition was prepared as follows:

63
All the ingredients of phase A were mixed at 30°C for 15 minutes, to get phase A.
All the ingredients of phase B were mixed separately at 30°C
for 15 minutes, to get phase B.
5 Both phase A and phase B (50/50 by weight) were filled
separately in a dual-chambered pump bottle which allows delivering the two phases simultaneously in a 1 : 1 weight ratio.
The composition of example 2 was compared with a
10 commercial conditioning composition in the form of an oily serum.
The composition of the invention provided better smoothness, shine and detangling.
Example 3: Color protection test: 15
The test was performed on swatches of Indian natural hair (90% gray, weight = 1 g, length = 27 cm).
Before the test, the swatches were washed with a commercial
shampoo (DOP), rinsed and colored with Color naturals from Garnier
20 (shade: 6.6) and then rinsed.
Then, the color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Konica Spectrophotometer 2600D instrument.
In this L*a*b* system, the three parameters respectively denote
the intensity of the color (L*), the green/red color axis (a*) and the
25 blue/yellow color axis (b*). The lower the value of L*, the darker or
more highly intense the color. The higher the value of a*, the redder
the color and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the color.
The color values thus obtained are noted L0*, a0* and b0*.
Then, each one of the compositions to be tested was applied
30 onto three swatches using 0.15 g of composition per 1 g of swatch. The
swatches were washed with the DOP shampoo, rinsed and color
measurements were taken again, and the color variation ΔE was
calculated from the following equation:

64
AE* = V(L*-Lo *)2+(a*-ao*)2+(b*-bo*)2
In this equation, the parameters L*, a* and b* represent the
values measured on locks of hair after the cycle (treatment with the
compositions + shampoo + rinsing) and the parameters L0*, a0* and
5 b0* represent the values initial values measured on the locks
immediately after coloration and rinsing. The higher the ∆E value, the most important the color fading.
The cycle “composition + wash + rinsed and measurement” was
repeated until the average ∆E with regard to the initial color values
10 (L0*, a0* and b0*) on the three swatches was greater than 3.

5

65
Compositions tested (% active matter by weight with respect to each phase):

Invention Comparative 1 Comparative 2
Phase A2 Phase A’1 Only one phase A’2
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5 - 5
C13-C15 alkane Qsp 100 Qsp 100 -
Bis-aminoethylaminopropyl dimethicone 2.4 8 -
Cyclopentasiloxane 6 - 6
Cyclohexasiloxane 50.5 - 81
Triethanolamine 0.03 0.11 -
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 2.7 9 -
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 7 - 7
Dimethiconol 1 - 1
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.9 3
Phase B2 Phase B’1
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cst) 5 -
C13-C15 alkane Qsp 100 Qsp 100
Bis-glycidoxy dimethicone 2.4 8
Cyclopentasiloxane 6 -
Cyclohexasiloxane 50.5 -
Dimethicone (2 cst) 2.7 9
Dimethicone (60 000 cst) 7 -
Dimethiconol 1 -
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.9 3

66
The compositions were prepared using the same protocol as detailed in example 1.
The results of the color protection tests (average ∆E, measured
5 on 3 swatches) are detailed in the table hereunder:

Invention Comparative 1 Comparative 2
After 1 cycle 0,82 ± 0,44 1,19 ± 0,32 1,47 ± 0,56
After 3 cycles 1,96 ± 0,38 3,06 ± 0,40 2,64 ± 0,16
After 4 cycles 2,17 ± 0,32 -- 3,56 ± 0,49
After 5 cycles 2,37 ± 0,05 -- --
After 6 cycles 3,73 ± 0,42 -- --
These results show that the composition of the invention
retains the color up to 5 washing cycles, i.e. more than the
10 comparative ones.
This illustrates the performances of the composition of the invention in terms of color protection.
Example 4 15
The following compositions have been prepared (phase A and phase B separately)

5

67
Phase A (% active matter by weight)

Phase A3 Phase A4 Phase A5
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5 5 4
Ethanol - 20 -
Mix Undecane and tridecane 20 - -
Bis-aminoethylaminopropyl dimethicone 1.6 1.6 1.3
Cyclopentasiloxane 6 6 4.8
Cyclohexasiloxane Qsp100% Qsp100% Qsp 100
Triethanolamine 0.02 0.02 0.02
Dimethicone (2cSt) 16 16 12.8
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 7 7 5.6
Dimethiconol 2.8 2.8 2.3
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0,6 0.6 0,48

Phase A6 Phase A7 Phase A8
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5 5 5
C13-C15 alkane Qsp100 - -
Bis-aminoethylaminopropyl dimethicone 1 2.4 1.1
Cyclopentasiloxane 13 6 12.8
Cyclohexasiloxane - Qsp 100 Qsp 100
Triethanolamine 0.01 0.03 0.02
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 1.1 24 11.2
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 14 7 14
Dimethiconol 2.2 3.7 3.5
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.5 0.9 0.4

68

Phase A9 Phase A10 Phase A11
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5 5 5
C13-C15 alkane 11 16 Qsp 100
Bis-aminoethylaminopropyl dimethicone 1,1 1,6 0,8
Cyclopentasiloxane 13 6 12.8
Cyclohexasiloxane Qsp 100 Qsp 100 16
Triethanolamine 0.01 0.02 0,01
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 1,3 1,8 0.8
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 14 7 -
Dimethicone (10 000 cSt) - - 14
Dimethiconol 2.2 1 2.2
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.4 0,6 0.3
Phase B (% active matter by weight)

Phase B3 Phase B4 Phase B5
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5 5 4
Mix Undecane and tridecane 20 - -
Ethanol - 20 -
Bis-glycidoxy dimethicone 1.6 1.6 1.3
Cyclopentasiloxane 6 6 4.8
Cyclohexasiloxane Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 16% 16 12.8
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 7 7 5.6
Dimethiconol 2.8 2.8 2.3
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.6 0.6 0.48

69

Phase B6 Phase B7 Phase B8
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5 5 5
C13-C15 alkane Qsp 100 - -
Bis-glycidoxy dimethicone 1 2.4 1.1
Cyclopentasiloxane 12.8 6 12.8
Cyclohexasiloxane - Qsp 100 Qsp 100
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 1.1 24 11.2
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 14 7 14
Dimethiconol 2.2 3.7 3.5
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0.5 0.9 0.4

Phase B9 Phase B10 Phase B11
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5 5 5
C13-C15 alkane 11 16 Qsp 100
Bis-glycidoxy dimethicone 1,1 1,6 0,8
Cyclopentasiloxane 12.8 6 12.8
Cyclohexasiloxane Qsp 100 Qsp 100 16
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 1,3 1,8 0,8
Dimethicone (60 000 cSt) 14 7 -
Dimethicone (10 000 cSt) - - 14
Dimethiconol 2.2 1 2,2
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0,4 0,6 0,3

70
The following 11 compositions were prepared:
Composition 3 corresponds to the mixture of phases A3 and B3,
composition 4 corresponds to the mixture of phases A4 and B4, etc.
5 (each composition ‘i’ corresponds to the mixture of ph ases Ai and Bi,
with ‘i’ an integer ranging from 3 to 11).
The compositions were prepared as follows:
All the ingredients of each phase Ai were mixed at 30°C for 15
minutes, to get phase Ai.
10 All the ingredients of phase Bi were mixed separately at 30°C
for 15 minutes, to get phase Bi.
Both phase Ai and phase Bi (50/50 by weight) were filled separately in a dual-chambered pump bottle which allows delivering the two phases simultaneously in a 1 : 1 weight ratio. 15
Example 5
The following compositions were prepared, using the same protocol as detailed in example 1. 20

71

Example I Example II Example III
Phase Aa Phase Aa’ Only one phase
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5 - 5
C13-C15 alkane Qsp 100 Qsp 100 -
Bis-aminoethylaminopropyl dimethicone 1 1,6 -
Cyclopentasiloxane 12,8 - Qsp 100
Triethanolamine 0,01 0.02 -
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 1,1 1,7 -
Dimethicone (300 000 cSt) 14 - 14
Dimethiconol 2,2 - 2,2
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0,5 0,7
Phase Ba Phase Ba’
Phenyltrimethicone (20 cSt) 5 -
C13-C15 alkane Qsp 100 Qsp 100
Bis-glycidoxy dimethicone 1,1 1,6
Cyclopentasiloxane 12,8 -
Dimethicone (2 cSt) 1,2 1,7
Dimethicone (300 000 cSt) 14 -
Dimethiconol 2,2 -
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 0,5 0,7
The evaluation of the performances of each composition in
5 terms of hair shine was performed on round swatches of Indian natural
hair (weight = 3 g, length = 27 cm).
Before the test, the swatches were washed with a commercial shampoo (DOP), rinsed and treated with the composition to be tested as follows: each composition was applied onto three distinct wet

swatches using 0,4 g of composition per g of swatch. The swatches were then dried at 60°C for 15 min.
The shine of the swatches was measured (hereafter "Shine at TO").
Then, the swatches were kept in a humid chamber at 30°C and 80% RH (relative humidity) for 24 hours.
After 24 hours in the humid chamber, the swatches were acclimatized at 50%RH and 20°C for 15-20 min and the shine of the swatches was measured (hereafter "Shine at T24").
All measurements of shine were made at 25°C, 50% HR, using a Samba (Bossa Nova Technologies) equipment, comprising a polarized light source, a polarized camera and a cylindrical swatch holder. A software translates the parameters measured by the system into arbitrary units of brightness BNT, which is a coefficient representative of the shine of the swatch.
The results of the shine tests (average BNT measured on 3 swatches) are detailed in the table hereunder:

BNT coefficients Example I Example II Example III
Shine at TO 73,96 ± 0,75 55,64 ± 1,17 73,04 ± 1,39
Shine at T24 71,72 ± 1,51 49,63 ± 1,04 67,55 ± 0,66
These results show that the shine on the hair swatches treated with the composition of Example I is higher than the shine of the hair swatches treated with the composition of Example II (values at TO).
As well, the shine on the hair swatches treated with the composition of Example I is longer lasting than the shine of the hair swatches treated with the compositions of Example II and Example III (values at T24).

CLAIMS

Cosmetic composition comprising: (i) from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more bis-amino silicone(s) of formula (I):

R
-Si—0 R

R
-Si-R

(I)
wherein
- the Z groups, identical or different, each denote an alkylamino
group;
- the R groups, identical or different, denote saturated or
unsaturated alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or aryl groups comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms;
- n denotes a number of at least 10;
(ii) from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more bis-epoxy silicone(s) of formula (II):

Y-

R'
I
-Si — O
I R'

R'
I
Si
I R'

Y

(in)

(II)
wherein
- the Y groups, identical or different, each denote an alkyl or
alkyloxy group bearing an epoxy function;
- the R' groups, identical or different, denote saturated or
unsaturated alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or aryl groups comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms;
- m denotes a number of at least 10; and
one or more conditioning agent(s).

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein in formula (I), the Z groups each denote a linear or branched alkylamino group comprising from 1 to 12, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 3 amino functions, preferably 1 or 2 amino functions.
3. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein in formula (I), the R groups denote linear or branched saturated alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and even more preferably the R groups all denote a methyl group.
4. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the bis-amino silicones are chosen from those of formula (I), wherein the R groups all denote a methyl group, the Z groups all denote a -C3H6-NH-C2H4-NH2 group, and n denotes a number ranging from 10 to 50.
5. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein said bis-amino silicone(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 4.5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein in formula (II), the Y groups each denote a liner or branched, cyclic or non cyclic alkyl or alkyloxy group containing from 1 to 12, preferably from 2 to 10, and even more preferably from 3 to 9 carbon atoms, and bearing an epoxy function.
7. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein the R' groups denote linear or branched saturated alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and even more preferably the R' groups all denote a methyl group.
8. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the bis-epoxy silicones are chosen from those of formula (II),
wherein the R groups all denote a methyl group, m denotes a number
ranging from 10 to 50, and the Y groups all denote
O
/—(CH2)3— O—CH—CH—CH2

9. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein said bis-epoxy silicone(s) is (are) present in an amount ranging
from 0.2 to 4.5% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 4% by weight, and
more preferably from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of
the composition.
10. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims, wherein said conditioning agents are chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, solid fatty alcohols, waxes, solid fatty esters, non-silicone liquid fatty substances (or non-silicone oils), silicones different from the silicones of formula (I) and (II) above, and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said conditioning agents are chosen from silicones different from the silicones of formula (I) and (II), preferably chosen from:

- volatile silicones and in particular cyclic silicones with 3 to 7 silicon atoms and/or linear silicones with 3 to 7 silicon atoms,
- polyalkylsiloxanes and in particular non volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, preferably having a viscosity at 25°C of from 5xl0"6 to 2.5 m2/s , preferably lxlO"5 to 1 m2/s, and more preferably from 10"4 to 8.10"1 m2/s, and most preferably from 2.10"4 to 5.10"1 m2/s,
- polyarylsiloxanes and/or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, preferably chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, and preferably having a viscosity at 25°C of from lxlO"5 to 5xl0"2m2/s at 25°C, preferably from 10"5 to 10"3 m2/s, and most preferably from 2.10"5 to 5.10"4 m2/s,
- phenyltrimethicones,
- and mixtures thereof,
and more preferably chosen from cyclic silicones with 3 to 7 silicon atoms, phenyltrimethicones, and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein said conditioning agents are present in a total amount
ranging from 5 to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 7.5 to 99.7% by
weight, more preferentially from 10 to 99% by weight, better from 15 to

98% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Kit containing at least two distinct compartments:
- at least one compartment containing a first intermediate composition containing one or more bis-amino silicone(s) (i) of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4 in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of said first and second intermediate compositions;
- at least one compartment containing a second intermediate composition containing one or more bis-epoxy silicone(s) (ii) of formula (II) as defined in any one of claims 1 and 6 to 8 in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of said first and second intermediate compositions;
- said first and/or said second intermediate composition further
containing at least one conditioning agent as defined in any one of claims
1, 10 and 11.
14. Use of the composition as defined in anyone of the preceding claims for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibres, preferably the hair, and more preferably dyed hair.
15. Use of the composition as defined in anyone of claims 1 to 13 for protecting the color of dyed hair from fading, and/or for reviving the color of dyed hair, and/or for giving shine to hair or improving the shine of the hair.
16. Process of treatment of human keratin fibres
comprising:
(1) a step of dying of said keratin fibres, followed by
(2) a step of application onto the dyed fibres of the composition as defined in anyone of the claims 1 to 13.
17. Process according to claim 14, wherein the dying step
(1) is a step of oxidation dyeing, or a step of direct dyeing.