FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC
AND/OR AMPHOTERIC POLYMER, A PARTICULAR SILICONE AND A POLYESTERAMINE
2. Applicant(s)
NAME NATIONALITY ADDRESS
L'OREAL French 14, rue Royale 75008 PARIS, FRANCE
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it
is to be performed.

DESCRIPTION
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s), a specific oil-in-water-type silicone emulsion, and one or more polyesteramines.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres using this composition.
Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin materials especially such as the hair and the skin. These compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a toiletry flannel makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin.
These compositions contain substantial contents of "detergent" surfactants, which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic compositions with good washing power, must especially give them good foaming power.
The surfactants that are useful for this purpose are generally of anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type, and particularly of anionic type.
These compositions have generally a good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain fairly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the hair fibre, this damage being associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of this fibre.
Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly those which are to be

applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which has been damaged or made brittle, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or bleaching), it is now common to introduce additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners into these compositions. These conditioners are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which the hair fibres are subjected more or less repeatedly. They may, of course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.
The conditioners most commonly used to date in shampoos include cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives, which give washed, dry or wet hair an ease-of disentangling, softness and smoothness which are markedly better than that which can be obtained with corresponding cleaning compositions from which they are absent.
In particular, it is known to use a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer. However, the compositions containing them still have numerous disadvantages, such as leading to an insufficient deposit of silicones on hair and impacting therefore strongly on their cosmetic properties.
Thus, there is a real need to provide cosmetic compositions, such as compositions for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, that allow overcoming the drawbacks described above, i.e. which effectively remove dirt and excess sebum and enhance cosmetic properties of said fibres, such as disentangling. These cosmetic properties may also be long-lasting.
The composition should give satisfactory silicone deposit on the keratin fibres.
The Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s), a specific oil-in-water-type silicone emulsion, and one or more polyesteramines makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.
Thus, the subject of the invention is especially a cosmetic composition comprising:
a) one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s);
b) an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:

- a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
- a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
- water; c) one or more polyesteramines.
This cosmetic composition, when applied on keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, leads to an improvement of the condition and quality of hair, in particular in terms of hair feel (e.g. smooth feel, soft feel, conditioned feel) and hair detangling, notably in terms of wet combing.
This cosmetic composition allows increasing the silicone deposition on hair when compared to a similar composition which does not contain the polyesteramines.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, using the composition according to the invention.
Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
Other subject-matters, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In the text herein below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s)

comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s). These polymers are non-silicones, i.e. they do not contain any silicon (Si) atom.
By “cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s)” or
“cationic/amphoteric polymer(s)”, it is understood one or more cationic polymers, one or more amphoteric polymers or the mixture of one or more cationic polymers, and of one or more amphoteric polymers.
By “acrylic and/or methacrylic units”, it is understood units
corresponding to acrylic and/or methacrylic acid monomers and/or their
salts, and/or their derivatives such as esters (for example
(meth)acrylates) or amides (for example (meth)acrylamide), optionally substituted.
The cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units may be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic and/or methacrylic monomers, and preferably from homo- or copolymers resulting from the (co)polymerization of one or more monomers including one or more monomers of structure (I):

in which,
- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,
- R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical, a NR3R4 radical or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkoxy radical, said alkoxy radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N+R5R6R7;Y-) or by a NR8R9 radical,
- R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1-C12 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N+R5R6R7;Y-), by a NR8R9 radical or by a sulfonic group (-SO3H), and
- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical;
- R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; and

- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
Preferably, R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.
The polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units suitable for the present invention are chosen from cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, they are chosen from cationic polymers.
The cationic charge density of the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units may preferably be lower than or equal to 5 meq/g, more preferentially lower than or equal to 4 meq/g, and better still lower than or equal to 3 meq/g. This cationic charge density advantageously ranges from 0.5 to 5 meq/g, better still from 1 to 4 meq/g, and even more preferably from 1.5 to 3 meq/g.
The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those tha t contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
The polymers a) that can be used in the present invention are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:



in which:
- R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- R, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 1-C12 alkyl radical, preferably a linear C1-C6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals;
- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical;
- R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
Preferably, the polymers a) are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic amides, and more preferentially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (II) or (III).
More particularly the polymers a) are chosen from copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (II) as defined previously, and more preferably comprising at least one unit of formula (II) in which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear alkyl group having 3 carbon atoms and R5, R6 and R7 represent a methyl.
The polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be selected from the families of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on

the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or
esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or
vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters, preferably selected from the families of acrylamide and methacrylamides, and more preferentially from the family of acrylamides and even more preferentially acrylamide or methacrylamide.
Among these copolymers, mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride and acrylamide,
such as the product sold under the name Salcare® SC 60 by the company
BASF, or sold under the name N-Hance SP 100 by the company Ashland,
or sold as a
mixture of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorure (and) acrylamide-propyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer under the name of N-Hance 4572 (ex Aqualon aqua 4572 conditioning polymer ) by the company Ashland,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the names GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for instance GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755, or alternatively the products known as COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in FR 2 077 143 and FR 2 393 573,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP,

- preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C 1-
C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained
by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide
with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl
chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being optionally
followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound,
more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked or non-
crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxy ethyltrimethylammonium
chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion
containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil may be
used more particularly. Such a dispersion is sold under the name
SALCARE® SC 92 by the company BASF. A crosslinked or non-
crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride
homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in
mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. Such dispersions are
sold under the names SALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96 by the
company BASF.
The polymers a) that can be used in the present invention can also be chosen from amphoteric polymers.
Amphoteric polymers can be chosen more particularly from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (VI) below:
)
in which:
- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or CH3 radical; and

- R2 denotes a NR3R4 radical, wherein R3 and R4, which may be
identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched
C1-C12 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl
radicals, preferably R2 denotes an amino, a dimethylamino, a tert-
butylamino, a dodecylamino or a -NH-CH2OH radical.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (VI).
The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (VI) in which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of structure (VII) below:
in which:
- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or CH3 radical;
- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (VII).
Among these units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of formula (VII), the
ones that are preferred are those derived from the

methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for
which R1 denotes a methyl radical, n is equal to 3, R 5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y- denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (VIII):
in which:
- R1 denotes hydrogen atom or CH3 radical; and
- R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a NR3R4 radical, wherein R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical optionally substituted by a sulfonic group (-SO3H), preferably R2 denotes a –NH-C(CH3)2-CH2-SO3H radical.
The preferred units of formula (VIII) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (VIII) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom and R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (VIII).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
The content of units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.

The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60
mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and
- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional
units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide
type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of
(meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention,
the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from
monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.
As examples of amphoteric polymers that are particularly
preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid
terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.
Another preferred type of amphoteric polymers is the polymer comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more non-ionic units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylate type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.

The monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and the acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (monomers (ii) and (iii) respectively) are as described above.
The non ionic monomers (i) of (meth)acrylate type are preferably chosen from C1-C4 alky acrylates and methacrylates. A preferred monomer is methyl acrylate.
As particularly preferred examples of such amphoteric polymers,
mention may be made of acrylic acid/
methylacrylamidopropyltriméthylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the name polyquaternium 47. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2001N by the company Nalco.
As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names polyquaternium 22 and polyquaternium 53 (acrylic acid/ methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride (MAPTAC)/acrylamide terpolymer). Examples of corresponding products are sold respectively under the names Merquat 280 and Merquat 2003PR by the company Nalco.
The polymer(s) a) are preferably chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/
(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamide-
propyltrimonium chloride/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, and more
preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide
copolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide
/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (meth)acrylamide /
(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide/
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid
terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/
(C1-C6 alkyl) (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers,
preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (C 1-C6 alkyl)

(meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; more preferably acrylic acid/ methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylic acid/ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers,
- and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the polymer(s) a) are preferably chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide
/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidepropyl-trimonium chloride/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, and most preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers.
The total amount of cationic/amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, more preferentially from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Silicone(s) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an oil-in-water (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:
- a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated
dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than
100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of
from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10
mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone;
- a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16; and
- water.
In the oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the silicone mixture, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.
The silicone mixture comprises one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes, that are preferably of formula (IX):
R’3SiO(R’2SiO)pSiR’3

wherein:
- R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical
having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl, and
- p is an integer of from 500 to 2,000, preferably of from 1,000
to 2,000.
The trialkylsilyl terminated (or end-blocked or α,ω-position) dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention have a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded) at 25°C, preferably a viscosity of from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, more preferably a viscosity of from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.
The trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention are preferably linear but may contain additionally to the R’2SiO2/2 units (D-units) in formula (IX), RSiO3/2 units (T-units) and/or SiO4/2 units (Q-units), wherein R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R’, same or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C1-C28 alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4 -trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and ally radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and the b-phenylethyl radical. Most preferred is the methyl radical.
Preferably, the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes are
trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or
dimethicones).
The silicone mixture comprises one or more amino silicones, that are preferably of formula (X):
XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X

wherein:
- R, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical
having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl;
- X, same or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C 1-C6-alkoxy
group; preferably X is R, i.e. a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having
from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, even
better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl;
- A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2CH2-or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2, same or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4-alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, R3 is a C1-C6-alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2-, and x is 0 or 1; and
- m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600.
Preferably, A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2-, and x is 1.
Preferably, R, same or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C1-C28 alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4 -trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and ally radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and the b-phenylethyl radical. Most preferred is the methyl radical.

The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C, preferably of from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.
The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably of from 3.5 to 8 mg.
The mole percent of amine functionality is preferably in the range of from about 0.3 to about 8%.
Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone mixture according to the invention include trialkylsilyl terminated amino silicone.
Most preferably, amino silicones are trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane, most preferably trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane copolymers. The amino radical A can be protonated partially or fully by adding acids to the amino silicone, wherein the salt forms of the amino radical are obtained. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of from 0.1 to 2.0 mol per 1 mol of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (X).
The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in a quantity of from 70 to 90% by weight, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a quantity of from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.
The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises a mixture of emulsifiers that comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers. It could optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
The mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value from 10 to 16.
The nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen among the nonionic surfactants as described hereunder.

Mention may be made of alcohols, α-diols and
(C1-20)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and
of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides
preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated
fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from
1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan
preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters
of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty
acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including
oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine
oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-14
acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula:
R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v
in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,

- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.
The nonionic emulsifiers could preferably be chosen among ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylene surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, sorbitol ester and their ethoxylated derivatives, glycol esters of fatty acids, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, polyoxyethylene fatty acid amides.
Preferably, nonionic emulsifiers are selected from: (i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, especially (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:
R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH with:
- R3 representing a linear or branched C 8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and
- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferentially between 2 and 150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE);
(ii) polyoxyalkylene (C8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers,
(iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan (C8-C32) fatty acid esters, especially polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably

containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan (C 10-C24) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and
(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C8-C32) fatty acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated (C10-C24) fatty acid esters containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.
Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers could be selected from alkyl ether of polyalkyleneglycol and alkyl esters of polyalkyleneglycol; preferably of polyethyleneglycol (PEG).
Some useful emulsifiers are:
- polyethyleneglycol octyl ether; polyethyleneglycol lauryl ether; polyethyleneglycol tridecyl ether; polyethyleneglycol cetyl ether; polyethyleneglycol stearyl ether; among these, mention may be made more particularly of trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6.
- polyethyleneglycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol stearylphenyl ether;
- polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethyleneglycol
sorbitan monooleate.
- polyethyleneglycol stearate, and especially PEG-100 stearate.
Most preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are chosen among
steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and their mixture; preferably, all these emulsifiers are present in the mixture of emulsifiers.
The mixture of emulsifiers could comprise one or more cationic emulsifiers that could be selected among tetraalkylammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylarylammonium halides, and their salts; quaternary ammonium compounds including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be chosen among cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as chloride.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably of

from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, when present, in a total amount of from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total amount of from 40 to 60% by weight, preferably of from 45 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of from 35 to 45% by weight, preferably of from 38-42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 8-12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion comprises water preferably in an amount of from 25 to 50% by weight, preferably of from 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably of from 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion could additionally comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, that could be present in the emulsion in a quantity of from 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
A method of preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises:
- a step of mixing one or more trialkylsilyl terminated
dialkylpolysiloxanes of viscosity of from 40,000 to less than
100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and one or more amino silicones of viscosity of
from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10
mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of from 15°C
to 40°C, preferably at 25°C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid, then
- a step of adding a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or
more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a
HLB value from 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a silicone-
emulsifier-mixture, then
- a step of homogenizing the silicone-emulsifier-mixture
followed by

- a step of adding, preferably step-wise, water, preferably demineralized water, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm.
The method of preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion could further comprise an additional step of adding a biocide. Biocide could be added for preserving the emulsion against microbial contamination . The biocide could be added at the level of for preserving emulsion against microbial contamination and obtaining the said emulsion. The quantity of the biocide depends on the type of biocide and as recommended by the manufacturer.
The preparation of the mixture of emulsifiers could be made by mixing one or more nonionic emulsifiers.
The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e. after addition of the biocide) is preferably of from 4 to 6.
The oil-in-water emulsion has D50 particle size of less than 350 nm, preferably of from 100 to 300 nm, more preferably from 150 to 250 nm, most preferably from 160 to 200 nm. It corresponds to the average hydrodynamic particle diameter. The D50 particle si ze is expressed in volume. The D50 particle size could be measured by using a device ZetaSizer from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method.
Particle size measurement
Emulsion particle size is measured by using a device ZetaSizer from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method. The D50 value of particle size (average hydrodynamic particle diameter) is measured, wherein the evaluating algorithm is “cumulants analysis”.
Take 0.5 g of the emulsion sample in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of demineralized water is poured into it and then mixed properly to get the sample test solution. The sample test solution is poured in the cuvette cell and is put into the slot of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the value of the particle diameter at 50% in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50=170 nm, then 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170 nm, and 50% smaller than 170 nm or about 50% by volume of all droplets in said emulsion is 170 nm.

Viscosity measurement
The viscosity, especially of the silicones or of the emulsion, is measured at 25°C.
For viscosities between 1000 to 40,000 mPa.s at 25ºC: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar Rheometer; model MCR101, geometry single gap cylinder: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
For viscosities between 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s at 25ºC: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar Rheometer; model MCR101, 25-6 cone (Cone-plate geometry: 25 mm dia. / 6° cone); the “Zero gap” setting being made and with a shear rate of 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
Three measurements are made for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. MCR Rheometer Series products work as per USP (US Pharmacopeia Convention) 912 – Rotational Rheometer methods.
Amine value measurement
The amine value is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Make: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. 0.6 g of sample is taken in a 500 ml beaker and a toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture is added and stirred to mix the sample thoroughly; then the sample solution is titrated with a 0.1(N) HCl solution. A determination of the blank value with the toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture is also done. The calculation of the amine value is done by the above mentioned potentiometer.
The amine value is calculated according to the formula:
56.11 × (V - V Blank) × N / W mg KOH/ g of sample, where V= Volume of HCl required in ml, VBlank= Volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with the toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture in ml; N= Normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1 N, W= weight of the sample taken in gram.
HLB Value
The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, HLB values refer to the values at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

The HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.
Calculation of HLB value of nonionic surfactants is calculated according to the equation : HLB = (E + P)/5, with E being the weight percentage of oxyethylenecontent and P being the weight percentage of polyhydric alcohol content, described in to the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, n°4), pp.249-256.
It can also experimentally be determined according to the book of F. Puisieux and M. Seiller, entitled "Galenica 5: Les systèmes disperses - Tome I - Agents de surface et émulsions - Chapitre IV -Notions de HLB et de HLB critique, pp.153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Determination de HLB par voie experimentale [Experimental determination of HLB], pp.164-180".
The calculated HLB is the preferred HLB values that should be taken into account.
Said calculated HLB could be defined as being the following:
“calculated HLB = 20 × molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass.”
For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units condensed onto the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “Griffin HLB” as defined hereabove.
For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s).
For ionic surfactants/emulsifiers, the HLB value of individual
surfactant/emulsifier can be calculated applying the Davies formula as
described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of
emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent",
Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the
International Congress of Surface Activity): 426-438.
According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution afforded by the structural components of the emulsifier: HLB = (hydrophilic groups numbers) – n(group number per CH2 group) +7.
Approximate HLB values for some cationic emulsifiers are given in Table IV, in “Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics”, GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pp17-27.

When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are blended for use, the HLBMix is said to be the required HLB for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation (WAHLBA + WBHLBB)/ (WA + WB) = HLBMix, where WA = the amount (weight) of the first emulsifier (A) used, and WB = the amount (weight) of the second emulsifier (B); HLBA, HLBB = the assigned HLB values for emulsifiers A and B; HLB Mix = the HLB of the mixture.
Said oil-in-water emulsion is for example described in WO 2017/108824.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the oil-in-water emulsion b) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3 % to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10%, even more preferentially from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polyesteramines
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more polyesteramines.
The polyesteramine according to the invention is a polymer comprising repeating units linked by ester bonds and comprising also at least one amine function, preferably at least two amine functions in its structure. The amine function can be primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
Preferably, the polyesteramine of the invention comprises at least one amine function, more preferably at least two amine functions, incorporated in the polymer backbone. More preferably, the at least one amine function is a tertiary amine function.
Preferably, the polyesteramine of the invention is chosen from branched polyesteramines.
The polyesteramine of the invention can result from a reaction involving at least one organic amine, at least one polyol, at least one di¬or tri-carboxylic acid, and at least one fatty acid.
The organic amine can be an alkanolamine. The term “alkanolamine” means an amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C 1-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Preferably, an alkanolamine suitable for the present invention is an amine comprising a tertiary amine function, namely a tertiary alkanolamine.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” means an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferentially from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, more preferentially still from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
Preferentially, the polyol can be chosen from polyol having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, the polyol can be chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
The di- or tri-carboxylic acid can be chosen from adipic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, trimellitic acid, dimer acid, trimer acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and pyromellitic acid.
Preferably, the di-or tri-carboxylic acid is a dicarboxylic acid. More preferably, the dicarboxylic acid has from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
The term “fatty acids” is intended to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
Preferentially, the solid fatty acids according to the invention, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
The fatty acid can be chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, polyesteramine according to the invention is chosen from polyesteramines (Ia) resulting from the reaction of:
(i) at least one organic amine, preferably at least one alkanolamine, more preferably at least one tertiary alkanolamine;
(ii) at least one polyol, preferably at least one polyol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms;
(iii) at least one dicarboxylic acid, preferably at least one dicarboxylic acid having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; and
(iv) at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
More preferably, polyesteramine of the invention is chosen from polyesteramines (Ib) resulting from the reaction of:
(i) bis-hydroxyethyl methylamine;
(ii) glycerin;
(iii) adipic acid; and
(iv) at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated, preferably at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms .
Preferably, polyesteramine according to the invention is chosen from compounds with INCI names polyester-11, polyester-37, and their mixtures, more preferably polyester-11.
Examples of these compounds are products sold by INOLEX under trademarks Kerazyne (polyester-11) and ClariSilk (polyester-37).
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the polyesteramine(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the polyesteramine(s) (Ia) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the polyesteramine(s) (Ib) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better

still from 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise polyester-11 in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
Surfactant(s)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more surfactants. They may be anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, non-ionic or cationic surfactants, and preferably chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise one or more anionic surfactants; preferably one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants. It may also comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactant. It may also comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.
Anionic surfactant(s)
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
It is understood in the present description that: - carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO- ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;

- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate
function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also comprise one or more
sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function
but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or
-COO- ).
They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl -D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C 6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds.
The alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use may also be made of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of
polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C 6-C24 alkyl
polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo,
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (XI):
R1 (OC2H4)n- OCH2COOA
(XI) wherein,
- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an
alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2
denoting a linear or branched C 9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,

preferably, R1 is a C8-C20 and preferably C8-C18 alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (XI), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups R 1.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (XI) in which:
- R1 denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (XI) in which R denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- acylglutamates, especially of C 6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, especially of C 6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates, especially of C 12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates and especially (C 12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C 6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic
acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal,
ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-).
They may be chosen from the following compounds:
alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-
olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-

acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds.The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C 12-
C18)acylisethionates,
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds.
The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alkyl sulfates, especially of C 6-C24 or even C12-C20,
- alkyl ether sulfates, especially of C 6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts,
monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine
salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-
propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (C 12-
C18)acylisethionates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C 12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic
acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50
alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;
- C6-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
Preferably, the anionic surfactants are of sulphate type and are preferably chosen from salts, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium salts, ammoniums salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline earth metals for example magnesium salts, of alkyl sulphates, of alkylamide sulphates, of alkyl ether sulphates, of

alkylamido ether sulphates, of alkylaryl ether sulphates, of
monoglyceride sulphates and mixtures thereof.
The alkyl radical of all these various compounds preferably contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
More preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) is(are) selected from the anionic surfactants of alkyl ether sulphate type, and better still from C12-C14 alkyl ether sulphate salts, such as lauryl ether sulphate salts.
The anionic surfactants suitable in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, better still from 10 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s)
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s).
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in
the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary aliphatic
amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group
is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the
said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for
instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate
group. Mention may be made in particular of (C 8-C20)alkylbetaines,
sulfobetaines, (C8-C20alkyl)amido(C3-C8alkyl)betaines or (C8-
C20alkyl)amido(C6-C8alkyl)sulfobetaines.
Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures ( XII) and (XIII) below:
Ra-C(O)-N(Z)CH2(CH2)mN+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2C(O)O-, M+, X- (XII)

wherein,
- Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
- X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1-C4)alkyl sulphates, (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate;
- m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
Or alternatively M+ and X- are absent;
Ra’-C(O)-N(Z)-CH2-(CH2)m’-N(B)(B') (XIII)
wherein
- B represents the group -CH2-CH2-O-X';
- B' represents the group -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-C(O)OZ’, -CH2-CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-CH2-C(O)OZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ’, -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z’;
- Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra’ represents a C6-C30 alkyl or C6-C30 alkenyl group of an acid R a’-COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group;
- m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.

The compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA
dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium
cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium
caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium
cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium
caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate,
lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and
hydroxyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.
Examples that may be mentioned include the
cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (XIV):
Ra’’-NH-CH(Y’’)-(CH2)n-C(O)NH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (XIV)
wherein,
- Y’’ represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z'';
- Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C 1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra" represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a''-C(O)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; and
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Among the above-mentioned amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactants, it is preferred to use (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as
cocoylbetaine (or cocobetaïne), (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8
alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better from 0.5 % to 15% by weight, better from 0.75 % to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic surfactant(s)
The cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise in particular optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, and/or the salts or quaternary ammonium salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may especially be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, for example, of:
- those corresponding to the following general formula (XV):

in which the groups R 8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, especially, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C 1-C30 alkyl,
C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-
C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30
hydroxyalkyl groups; X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides,
phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-
C4)alkylsufonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.

Preference is given, among the quaternary ammonium salts of
formula (XV), on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such
as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium
chlorides, in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to
22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium,
distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or
benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or else
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or
stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by Van Dyk.
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for
example, those of the following formula (XVI):

in which
R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,
R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1-C4 alkyl group; X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 14 denotes a methyl group and R 15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by Rewo;
- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of
formula (XVII) below:


in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,
R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a),
R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by Finetex (Quaternium 75).
- quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester
functions, for instance those of formula (XVIII) below:

in which:
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
R23 is chosen from:
- the group ,
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1-C22
hydrocarbon-based groups R27, and

- a hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from:
- the group ,
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1-C6
hydrocarbon-based groups R29, and
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6,
r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, have the values 0 or 1,
r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t,
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 0 to 10,
X- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R 22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably has from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, have the value 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, have the value 2 or 3 and more particularly still are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, or a (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonate. However, use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ammonium having an ester function.
The anion X- is more particularly still chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (XVIII) in which:
- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
- x and y are equal to 1,
- z is equal to 0 or 1,
- r, s and t are equal to 2,
- R23 is chosen from:

• the group ,
• methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups, and
• a hydrogen atom,
- R25 is chosen from:
• the group , and
• a hydrogen atom,
- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are
chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17
hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
Among the compounds of formula (XVIII), examples that may
be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or the methyl sulfate
of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-
methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a

vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl groups, the latter can be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct
esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyl -
diethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably a dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names
Dehyquart® by Henkel, Stepanquat® by Stepan, Noxamium® by Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention can comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a predominance by weight of diester salts.
Mention may be made, as examples of such compounds, of
distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium or
dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and in particular the methosulfates.
Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyl-
trimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants, preference is more particularly
given to those of formula (XV) such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts,
behenyltrimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more
particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethyl -
ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the one or more cationic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 15% by weight

and better still from 0.5 % to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The total amount of surfactants may range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 30% by weight and better still from 1 % to 25% by weight, better from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional cationic polymer(s)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional cationic polymers different from the polymers a) described above. These optional additional cationic polymers are non silicone polymers.
The additional cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3×106 approximately.
Among the additional cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
(1) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597,
and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name UCARE
POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or
LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in
the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of
hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted
with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described
especially in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of
hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or
hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a
dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the

names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride). Such products are especially sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
(2) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent
alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched
chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or
with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or
quaternization products of these polymers.
(3) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by
polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these
polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a
diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated
derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine,
a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the
reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis -
halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide,
an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the
crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35
mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides
can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine
functions, they can be quaternized.
(4) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation
of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by
alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example,
of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in
which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and
preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives,
mention may be made more particularly of the adipic
acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold
under the name CARTARETINE F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(5) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine
comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine

group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated
aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the
mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic
acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino
amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of
epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino
amide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are
sold in particular under the name HERCOSETT 57 by the company
Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or DELSETTE 101
by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic
acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of
dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (XXX) or (XXXI):
in which:
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote a C 1-C6 alkyl group, a hydroxyl(C1-C5)alkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or

morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group; and
- Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the
dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer sold for example under the name MERQUAT 100 by the company Nalco.
(7) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

in which:
- R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different,
represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from
1 to 20 carbon atoms, or C1-C12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,
or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom,
or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C 1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that A1, R 13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- wherein n and p, which may be

identical or different, denote an integer from 2 to 20, and wherein D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a
linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group corresponding
to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-
CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y denote an integer from 1
to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any
number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine
derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-,
where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else
the divalent radical
-CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;
d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;
Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These
polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid.
A particularly preferred compound of formula (XXXIII) is that for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
(8) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XXXIV):

R 18 R 20
— N+ - (CH2)r- NH - CO - (CH2)q - CO - NH (CH2)s - N+ - A —
R 19 R 21
X- (XXXIV)
in which:
- R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, p-hydroxyethyl, p-
hydroxypropyl or
-CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH group, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide,
- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of
vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names
Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(10) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(11) Polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
—CH2—CH —
NH2 (A)
(b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
—CH2—CH—
I (B)
NH—C-H
O

In other words, these polymers may be chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1,000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 g/mol and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g/mol.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Other additional cationic polymers that may be used in the
context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein
hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines,
polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units,
condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
The additional cationic polymers, different from the
cationic/amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units described above, are preferably chosen from the cationic polysaccharides.
More preferentially the additional cationic polymers are chosen
from cationic guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups
(preferably C1-C6 alkyl groups, and more preferentially methyl groups),
better still from hydroxyl(C1-C4)alkyl guar gums comprising
trialkylammonium groups, cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as quaternary ammonium polymers

of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted by trimethylammonium groups and their mixtures, and even more preferably the additional cationic polymers are cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as quaternary ammonium polymers of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted by trimethylammonium groups .
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition can comprise:
- one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising
one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s), preferably chosen from
(meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide
/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4
alkyl) ammonium halide / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic acid
terpolymers, (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium
halide / (C1-C6 alkyl) (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; (meth)acrylic acid/ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers and mixtures thereof, and
- one or more additional cationic polymers, different from the
polymers a) described above, preferably chosen from the cationic
polysaccharides corresponding to the general family (1); more
preferentially chosen from cationic guar gums comprising
trialkylammonium groups; better still from hydroxyalkyl guar gums
comprising trialkylammonium groups; cellulose ether derivatives
comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as quaternary
ammonium polymers of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with
an epoxide substituted by trimethylammonium groups, and their
mixtures, and even more preferably the additional polymers are chosen
from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium
groups, and their mixtures, such as quaternary ammonium polymers of
hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted by
trimethylammonium groups.
The amount of additional cationic polymer(s), different from the
polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized
(meth)acrylamide units, when they are present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The amount of additional cationic polymer(s), different from the
polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized
(meth)acrylamide units, chosen from cationic polysaccharides when they are present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Optional additive(s)
The cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain various additives conventionally used in hair compositions.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of anionic or non-ionic polymers, additional amphoteric polymers different from the polymers a) previously described, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, fatty substances, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, perlizing agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents, and mixtures thereof.
The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additive(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as described above, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.

The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.
The composition could be a shampoo or a conditioner,
Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as described above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
In the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair such as hair.
In the above description, all the preferred embodiments with regard to the components may be used individually or in combination.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention .
Examples
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are given as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
Example 1: Preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion
450 g of amino silicone fluid (trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane copolymer with amine value of 7.2 mg of KOH/g sample, and a viscosity of 5,600 mPa.s at 25°C) were introduced in an emulsion tank. Stirring was started and 1,800 g of trimethylsilyl terminated dimethylsiloxane polymer fluid of viscosity 61,500 mPa.s at 25°C were introduced under stirring in the same tank. Both fluids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.
In a separate tank, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG-100 stearate were introduced and heated to 60°C. The temperature was maintained till both emulsifiers became liquid. Then 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% of active material) were added. These nonionic emulsifiers mixture had an HLB value = 11.25.
Then 80 g water and 6.2 g glacial acetic acid were added to the
tank and the mixing started. The mixing was continued till whole mass
became a creamy paste. The whole paste was introduced in the emulsion
tank. Homogenization was carried out for 30 minutes at room
temperature. 79.6 g demineralized water were added and

homogenization was carried out for 60 minutes. 72.7 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 50 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 294.3 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g demineralized water were added and homogenize for 3 minutes. 228.5 g demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes. Lastly 40.5 g 2-phenoxyethanol were added as a biocide and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes.
A stable oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of 170 nm was obtained.
Example 2
The composition C1 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2 and C3 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in table 1 below (wt. % of AM).

Table 1
Composition C1 C2 C3
(Invention) (Comp.) (Comp.)
Coco-betaine 1.2 1.2 1.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 12.6 12.6 12.6
Sodium chloride 1.4 1.4 1.4
Carbomer 0.35 0.35 0.35
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium
chloride/acrylamide 0.072 0.072 -
copolymer (=APTAC/AA)
Polyquaternium-10 0.4 0.4 0.4
Dimethicone (and) 5 % of 5% of 5% of
Amodimethicone (and) emulsion, emulsion, emulsion,
Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 i.e. 0.5% i.e. 0.5% i.e. 0.5%
stearate (and) Steareth-6 AM SiA + AM SiA + AM SiA +
(and) Trideceth-3 2% AM of 2% AM of 2% AM of
(of exemple 1) Si Si Si
Glycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5
Glycol distearate 0.2 0.2 0.2
Hexylene glycol 0.6 0.6 0.6
Polyester-11 1 - 1
Preservatives, pH agent qs qs qs
Water Qs 100 100 100
*AM = active material SiA: amodimethicone Si: PDMS
The compositions could be used as a shampoo.
Detangling property
The following protocol was as follows:
Hair swatch of 3 grams, 20 cm length has then been made wet under running tap water. Then, the fingers were run through the hair swatch five times for five seconds. Each swatch was passed between two

fingers to remove excess water (1 passage). Each swatch was then rolled around the fingers, or each swatch was placed in a watch glass.
Compositions C1, C2 and C3 were respectively applied to each swatch of hair (evenly from the roots to the ends). A quantity of 1.2 g of each composition is used.
The swatches were gently massaged by passing each swatch about six times between two fingers for fifteen seconds, from the roots to the ends (without creating knots) so as to lather the compositions.
The swatches were then rinsed under tap water, and the fingers were run through the hair fifteen times for ten seconds.
Each swatch was then finally passed between two fingers to remove excess water (2 passages).
Wet combing was then performed.
The peak load (expressed in milliNewton (mN)) was measured: said peak load corresponds to the maximum force required to comb the hair tress. The lesser the force, the better is the combing ability and hair conditioning.
Wet combing
3 hair swatches (each 3.0 g, 20 cm in length) were used per treatment group.
The hair swatch was dipped in distilled water for 1 minute, was then combed 5 times on each side, and the wet combing measure was then done.
Five measurements were taken per swatch using a combing tester to evaluate product performance. And the peak load was measured (it is the maximum force required to comb the swatch; the start position is at 40 mm and the combing speed is 1500 mm/minute).
The results are gathered in table 2 below:

C1 (invention) C2 (comparative) C3 (comparative)
Average measure (mN) 709.31 747.07 782.77
Standard Deviation 41.97 31.09 42.17
P value 0.01 0,00

The p-value is calculated for compositions C2 or C3, versus composition C1 according to the invention. When p-value < 0,05, the difference is significant.
Therefore, table 2 shows that the use of the polymer of the invention results in a significantly improved combing ability and hair conditioning. As such, the use of the polymer of the invention results in a significantly improved hair detangling. The synergy of polymer with polyester was seen through very low average measure of the peak load in formula C1, compared to the formula C2 (with polymer only) and C3 (with polyesteramine only).
Silicone deposition
Each composition C1, C2 and C3 was applied 5 times on hair locks with a rinsing step after each application, and the silicone deposition was measured by a WDXRF Optim’x Thermofischer (Wavelength Dispersion) XRF system on samples of 250 mg of hair. The principle is based on radiation emissions characteristic of the chemical element, produced by the impact of high energy photons dispensed by an X-ray tube.
Operational parameters:
- Gas Flow Helium - Argon/Methane (90/10);
- X-ray tube (Rh), Crystal PET and detector FPC;
- Tension 25kv– 2mA;
- 3 measurements / lock = 60s/ measurement;
- Minimum sample size 250mg (2mm pieces).
Protocol
0.4 g of composition was applied for 1 g of hair lock. The shampoo was massaged 6 times using fingers from root to tip, to generate foam. The lock was then rinsed under running water (25°C) 10 second. The lock was then dried at room temperature (RT)/45°C in an oven. This procedure was counted as 1 wash and then followed for 4 more washes to complete 5 wash cycle.
This measurement has been made after one application and after 5 applications for each composition.

The quantities of silicone deposited are indicated in table 4 below, in ppm.

C1 (inv) C2 (comp) C3 (comp)
Application No 1 4103 ± 32 3784 ± 44 BQL

5 8011 ± 42 7356 ± 56 145 ± 22
BQL: below quantification limit (80 ppm)
Table 4 shows that the use of the polymer of the invention results in a significantly improved quantity of silicone deposited on hair . The synergy of polymer with polyester was seen through very high Silicone deposition in formula C1, compared to the formula C2 (with polymer only) and C3 (with polyesteramine only).

I/We Claim:
1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
a) one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s);
b) an oil-in-water emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and comprising:

- a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone,
- a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
- water; and
c) one or more polyesteramines.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the
polymer(s) a) are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived
from acrylic and/or methacrylic monomers, and preferably from
homopolymers or copolymers resulting from the (co)polymerization of
one or more monomers including one or more monomers of structure (I):
in which,
- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,
- R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical, a NR3R4 radical or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkoxy radical, said alkoxy radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N+R5R6R7;Y-) or by a NR8R9 radical,
- R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1-C12 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N+R5R6R7;Y-), by a NR8R9 radical or by a sulfonic group (-SO3H), and

- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical;
- R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polymer(s) a) are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and at least one of the units of the following formulae:


in which:
- R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a
CH3 radical;

- R, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 1-C12 alkyl radical, preferably a linear C1-C6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals;
- R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical;
- R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer(s) a) further contain one or more units derived from comonomers that are selected from the families of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C 1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters, preferably selected from the families of acrylamide and methacrylamides, and more preferentially from the family of acrylamides, and even more preferentially acrylamide or methacrylamide.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer(s) a) are chosen from amphoteric polymers, and preferably from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the polymer(s) a) are chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/
(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ (meth)acrylamide
copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers,

- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide
/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably
(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (meth)acrylamide /
(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide/
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid
terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C1-C6 alkyl)tri(C1-C4 alkyl) ammonium halide/ (C1-C6 alkyl) (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (C1-C6 alkyl) (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; more preferably acrylic acid/ methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylic acid/ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers ;
- and mixtures thereof.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of polymer(s) a) ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, more preferentially from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes are of
formula (IX): R’3SiO(R’2SiO)pSiR’3
wherein:
- R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and
- p is an integer of from 500 to 2,000, preferably of from 1,000 to 2,000, and preferably are trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones).

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes have a viscosity of from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, preferably of from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.
10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino silicones, that are preferably of formula (X): XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X
wherein:
- R, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from

1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- X, same or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a C 1-C6-alkoxy group;
preferably X is R,
- A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the
protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is a C1-C6-
alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -
CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2, same or different, is a hydrogen atom or a C1-
C4-alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, R3 is a C1-C6-alkylene
radical, preferably a radical of the formula -CH2CH2-, and x is 0 or 1;
and
- m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 t o 600;
preferably A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or
the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein R1 is -
CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -
CH2CH2-, and x is 1.
11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino silicones have a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and/or an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone.
12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in a quantity of from 70 to 90% by weight, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a quantity of from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.
13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers comprises one or more emulsifiers chosen from:
(i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, especially (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula: R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH with:
- R3 representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and
- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferentially between

2 and 150;
and more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon
atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE);
(ii) polyoxyalkylene (C 8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers;
(iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan (C 8-C32) fatty acid esters, especially
polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from
2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide
units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan (C 10-C24) fatty acid esters
preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably
from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and;
(iv) polyoxyethylenated (C8-C32) fatty acid esters containing for
example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably
polyoxyethylenated (C10-C24) fatty acid esters containing for example
from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.
14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion comprises:
- the mixture of emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or
- nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or
- cationic emulsifiers in a total amount of from 0,5 to 1 ,5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or
- the silicone mixture in a total amount of from 40 to 60% by weight, preferably of from 45 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or
- the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of from 35 to 45% by weight, preferably of from 38-42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or
- the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 8-12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion; and/or
- water in an amount of from 25 to 50% by weight, preferably of from 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably of from 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion has D50 particle size of from

100 to 300 nm, preferably from 150 to 250 nm, more preferably from 160 to 200 nm, expressed in volume.
16. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-in-water emulsion is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 12% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyesteramine(s) are chosen from polyesteramines (Ia) resulting from the reaction of:
(i) at least one organic amine, preferably at least one alkanolamine, more preferably at least one tertiary alkanolamine;
(ii) at least one polyol, preferably at least one polyol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms;
(iii) at least one dicarboxylic acid, preferably at least one dicarboxylic acid having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; and
(iv) at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms;
preferably from chosen from polyesteramines (Ib) resulting from the reaction of:
(i) bis-hydroxyethyl methylamine;
(ii) glycerin;
(iii) adipic acid; and
(iv) at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms .
18. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the polyesteramine(s) is(are) present in a total amount
ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by
weight and better still from 0.3% to 5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
19. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more surfactants.
20. Cosmetic composition according to claim 19, wherein the surfactant(s) comprise(s) one or more anionic surfactants, preferably selected from those of sulphate type, more preferably alkyl ether

sulphate type, and better still from C 12-C14 alkyl ether sulphate salts, such as lauryl ether sulphate salts.
21. Cosmetic composition according to claim 20, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, better from 5 % to 20% by weight, better still from 10 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant(s) comprise(s) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
23. Cosmetic composition according to claim 22, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better from 0.75 % to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
24. Cosmetic treatment process, especially for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein a composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to said keratin fibres.
25. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23 for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres.