Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of
surfactants, a polyol, a cationic or amphoteric po lymer and
optionally a silicone
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition fo5 r
washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human
keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises a particular combinatio n
of surfactants, one or more polyols, one or more polymers of cationic
and/or amphoteric nature, and, optionally, one or more silicones.
10 The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for washing
and/or conditioning keratin fibres using this composition.
Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a compositio n
for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions
15 such as shampoos, based essentially on surfactants, for washing
keratin fibers especially such as the hair. These compositions are
applied to the keratin fiber, which are prefer ably wet, and the lather
generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands make s it possible,
after r insing with water, to remove the diverse t ypes of soiling
20 initially present on the hair and the scalp.
These compositions contain substantial contents of "detergent"
surfactants, which, are generally of anionic, non ionic and/or
amphoteric type, and particular ly of anionic t ype.
Admittedly these compositions have a good washing power, but
25 the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless
remain fair ly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relativel y
aggressive nature of such a cleaning tr eatment can, in the long run,
lead to more or less pronounced damage to the hair fibre, this damage
being associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or
30 proteins contained in or on the surface of the fibres.
Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above
detergent compositions, and more particularly those which ar e to be
3
applied to sensitized hair ( i.e. hair which has been damaged or made
brittle, in particular under the chemical action of atmospher ic agents
and/or hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or
bleaching), it is now common to introduce additional conditioning
agents such as mineral or plant oils into these compositions. Thes5 e
conditioners are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or
undesirable effects induced by the var ious treatments or aggressions to
which the hair fibres ar e subjected more or less repeatedly. These
conditioners may, of course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of
10 natural hair.
However, the compositions containing such conditioners are
generally presented in the form of emulsions or dispersions having
varying degrees of thickness and they often have an opaque appearance
that is not very attractive. More and more, consumers seek cosmetic
15 products that have an original visual appearance.
Moreover, these products may cause some drawbacks, due in
particular to the presence of oils.
In particular, these compositions r ich in fatt y substances ma y
be difficult to apply to the hair and may be difficult to remove, in
20 particular ma y require long rinsing.
Accordingly, there is a real need to make available
compositions, in particular washing compositions for human keratin
fibres such as hair, not presenting the drawbacks mentioned
hereinabove, i.e. that present an attractive visual appearance and that
25 can be applied easily to said fibres, and be rinsed quickly while
leading to enhanced cosmetic properties.
The composition should also have good detergent properties,
and present a good tolerance especially with respect to the skin,
mucous membranes, the scalp and the eyes.
30 The Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic compositio n
comprising a particular combination o f surfactants, one or more
polyols, one or more polymers of cationic and/or amphoteric nature,
and optionally one or more silicones, makes it possible to achieve the
objectives outlined above.
4
Thus, the subject of the invention is especially a cosmetic
composition comprising:
- one or more anionic surfactants,
- one or more amphoteric or zwitter ionic surfactants,
- one or more non ionic surfactant s chosen fro5 m
polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids,
- one or more polyo ls,
- one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, and
- optionally, one or more silicones.
10 The composition according to the invention has ver y good
cleaning properties. It provides a homogeneous foam that spreads
easily and uniformly on keratin fibres and cleanses the keratinous
substrate such as the hair and the scalp in a ver y gentle wa y. The
composition has the further advantages of being applied easily and of
15 being rinsed off quickly.
The composition according to the invention furthermore
exhibits high cosmetic properties, and especially affords a good
conditioning of keratin fibres such as the hair, including when these
fibres are sensitized. Indeed, the composition of the inventio n
20 provides, for instance, excellent smoothness, softness and
disentangling to the hair. The composition further provides a good
manageability of the keratin fibres, and a good control of frizz and
volume.
In addition, the composition according to the invention has a n
25 attractive and original visual appearance. It touches, feels and behaves
like an oil. It is a clear and transparent composition, which is ver y
pleasant to the co nsumers.
The composition has an oil-like texture during application, but
cleans the hair like a shampoo
30 The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for washing
and conditioning keratin fibres using this composition.
Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a compositio n
for washing and conditioning keratin fibres.
5
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the
invention will emerge even more clear ly on reading the descriptio n
and the example that follows.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits
of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in th5 e
expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present
description is equivalent to the expression "o ne or more".
Anionic surfactants
10 The composition according to the present invention comprises
one or more anionic surfactants.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising,
as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed as being
15 "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or
when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the
conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the
medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
The anionic surfactants ma y be sulfate, sulfonate and/or
20 carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of
these surfactants ma y be used.
It is understood in the present description that:
- carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or
carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also
25 comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate fu nctions;
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate
function (-SO3H or -SO3
-) and may optionally also comprise one or
more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions;
and
30 - the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate functio n
but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus
comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate functio n ( -COOH or
-COO-).
6
They ma y be chosen from the following compounds:
ac ylglycinates, ac yllact ylates, ac ylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; a lkyl-
D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6 -3 0
aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and
also the salts of these compounds5 .
The alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise
from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from
14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the ar yl group preferably
denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
10 These compounds are possib ly polyoxyalkylenated, especiall y
polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50
ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use ma y also be made of the C6 -C2 4 alkyl monoesters of
polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C2 4 alkyl
15 polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6 -C2 4
alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention ma y be made
most particular ly of polyo xyalk ylenated alkyl( amido) ether carboxylic
acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50
20 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the
compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo,
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ( amido) ether carboxylic acids
that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):
R1 (OC2H4)n OCH225 COOA (1)
wherein,
- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C2 4 alkyl or alkenyl r adical, a n
alkyl(C8 -C9)phenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2 -CH2 - with R2
30 denoting a linear or branched C9 -C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
preferably, R1 is a C8 -C2 0 and preferably C8 -C18 alkyl radical, and ar yl
preferably denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (aver age value) ranging from 2 to
24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
7
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or
triethanolamine residue.
It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1),
in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups R1 .
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acid5 s
that are particular ly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
- R1 denotes a C1 2 -C1 4 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl
radical,
- A denotes a hydro gen or sodium atom, and
10 - n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula
(1) in which R denotes a C1 2 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or
sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
Preferentially, the carboxylic anio nic surfactants are chosen,
15 alo ne or as a mixture, from:
- ac ylglutamates, e specially of C6 -C2 4 or even C1 2 -C2 0 , such as
stearo ylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, especially of C6 -C2 4 or even C1 2 -C2 0 , such
as palmito ylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium
20 palmitoylsarcosinate;
- ac yllact ylates, especially of C12 -C28 or even C14 -C24 , such as
beheno yllact ylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllact ylate;
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 acylglycinates;
- (C6-C2 4)alkyl ether carboxylates and especially (C1 2-C2 0)alkyl
25 ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6 -C24 )alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic
acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide
groups;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal,
30 ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The su lfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at
least one sulfonate functio n (-SO3H or -SO3
-).
They ma y be chosen from the following compounds:
alk ylsu lfo nates, a lkyla midesulfonates, alkylar ylsu lfonates, α -
8
olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether
sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, Nac
yltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of
these compounds.The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from
6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 t5 o
24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferabl y
denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possib ly polyoxyalkylenated, especiall y
polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50
10 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anio nic surfactants are chosen,
alo ne or as a mixture, from:
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2 -C2 0 alkylsulfosuccinates, especiall y
laurylsulfosuccinates;
15 - C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6 -C24 )ac ylisethionates and preferably (C1 2-
C1 8)ac ylisethionates,
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal,
ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
20 The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at
least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3
-).
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl
sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylar yl
polyether sulfates, monoglycer ide sulfates; and also the salts of these
25 compounds.
The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30
carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or
even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a
phenyl or benz yl group.
30 These compounds are possib ly polyoxyalkylenated, especiall y
polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50
ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone
or as a mixture, from:
9
- alkyl sulphates having a C6-C2 4 or even a C1 2-C2 0 alkyl group,
- alkyl ether sulphates having a C6-C2 4 or even a C12 -C20 alkyl group
and preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene o xide units, and more
preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal5 ,
ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt ma y
be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium
salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol
10 salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that ma y be mentio ned include
monoethano lamine, diethanolamine and tr iethanolamine salts,
monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine
salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-
15 propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the
sodium or magnesium salts are preferab ly used.
Preferentially, the anio nic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a
mixture, from:
20 - C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 alkyl ether sulfates comprising
from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene
oxide units;
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2 -C2 0 alkylsulfosuccinates, especiall y
25 laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates,
especially laureth sulfosuccinates;
- (C6 -C24 )ac ylisethionates and preferably (C1 2-
C1 8)ac ylisethionates;
30 - C6 -C2 4 and especially C12 -C20 acylsarcosinates; especiall y
palmitoylsarcosinates;
- (C6-C2 4)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C1 2-C2 0)alkyl
ether carboxylates;
10
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6 -C24 )alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic
acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50
alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 acylglutamates;
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 acylglycinates5 ;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal,
ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The anionic surfactants suitable in the composition of the
present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise
10 from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The anio nic surfactants used in the composition of the present
invention ar e preferably chosen from sulphate and sulfonate anionic
surfactants.
The anionic surfactants are most preferably chosen from
15 sulfosuccinates such as in particular C12 -C20 alkylsulfosuccinates and
C1 2-C2 0 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, and alkyl ether sulphates having a
C1 2-C2 0 alkyl group and comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units ,
and mixtures thereof. Such compounds are preferably used under the
form of salts.
20 The amount of anionic surfactants present in the compo sitio n
of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0.1 to 15% b y
weight, more preferentially from 0.3 to 10% b y weight, and even more
preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
25 Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
The composition according to the present inventio n further
comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s).
The amphoteric or zwitter ionic surfactant(s) that may be used
in the present invention ma y especially be secondary or tertiar y
30 aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the
aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22
carbon atoms, the said amine der ivatives containing at least one
anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate,
phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of
11
(C8-C2 0)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8 -C20alkyl)amido(C3 -
C8alkyl)betaines or (C8-C2 0alkyl)amido(C6-C8alkyl)sulfobetaines.
Among the secondary or tertiar y aliphatic amine derivatives,
optionally quaternized, that may be used, as defined above, mentio n
ma y also be made of the compounds of respective structures (II) an5 d
(III) below:
Ra -C(O)-N(Z)CH2(CH2)mN+(Rb)(Rc )-CH2C(O)O- , M+, X- (II)
10 wherein,
- Ra represents a C6 -C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolys ed coconut oil, or a heptyl,
nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;
15 - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counter ion der ived from an alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an io n
derived from an organic amine; and
- X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counter ion, preferab ly
20 chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1 -C4)alkyl
sulphates, (C1 -C4 )alkyl or (C1 -C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular
methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate;
- m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl
25 group.
Or alternatively M+ and X- are absent;
Ra’ -C(O)-N(Z)-CH2 -(CH2)m’ -N(B)(B') (III)
30 wherein
- B represents the group -CH2 -CH2 -O-X';
- B' represents the group -(CH2 )zY', with z = 1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH2 -C(O)OH, -CH2 -C(O)OZ’, -CH2-CH2 -
C(O)OH, -CH2 -CH2 -C(O)OZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
12
- Y' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ’, -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H
or the group -CH2 -CH(OH)-SO3 -Z’;
- Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an io n
derived from an organic amine5 ;
- Ra ’ represents a C6 -C30 alkyl or C6 -C3 0 alkenyl group of an ac id
Ra ’ -COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed
linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C1 7 alkyl group and its iso
form, or an unsaturated C1 7 group;
10 - m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl
group.
The compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA
dictionar y, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium
15 cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium
caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium
cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium
caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate,
lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and
20 hydroxyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.
Examples that may be mentioned include the
cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name
Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C
32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name
25 Chimexane HA.
Use ma y also be made of compounds of formula (III’) :
Ra ’ ’ -NH-CH(Y’’)-(CH2)n-C(O)NH(CH2)n’ -N(Rd )(Re ) (III’)
30 wherein,
- Y’’ represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH2-CH(OH)-
SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z'';
- Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or
hydroxyalkyl radical;
13
- Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an io n
derived from an organic amine;
- Ra " represents a C6 -C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra ' '-
C(O)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyse5 d
linseed oil; and
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging
from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds of formula (III’), mention may be made
10 of the compound classified in the CTFA dict ionar y under the name
sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the compan y
Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitter ionic
surfactants, it is preferred to use (C8-C2 0 alkyl)betaines such as
15 cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2 0 alkyl) amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as
cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactant(s) are chosen from (C8 -C2 0 alkyl)betaines, and even more
preferably cocoylbetaine.
20 The amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant( s)
advantageously ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more
preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferab ly
from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
25 Non io nic surfactants:
As previously mentioned, the composition of the present
invention also comprises at least one non ionic surfactant chosen from
polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids.
The fatt y acids t ypically have a number of carbon atoms
30 ranging from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 22. Among these fatt y
acids, coco fatty acids are particular ly preferred. Coco fatt y acids are
made of a mixture of fatt y acids containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
14
The number of ethylene oxide units is preferably higher than 3,
for example from 4 to 50, more preferably from 5 to 30, and even more
preferably from 6 to 25.
Preferably, the non ionic surfactant s are chosen from
polyethoxylated glycer yl esters of fatt y acids, polyethoxylate5 d
sorbitan esters of fatt y acids, and mixture thereof.
Thus, preferred non ionic surfactant s are chosen from
ethoxylated esters of C8 -C3 0 fatt y acid and sorbitan, preferabl y
containing from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide.
10 Further preferred non ionic surfactants are chosen from
ethoxylated ester s of C8 -C3 0 fatty acid and glycerol, prefer abl y
containing from 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 5 to 30, and
more preferably from 6 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide.
Such surfactants are preferably chosen from those having a
15 HLB higher than 8, and preferably a HLB ranging from 9 to 15. The
term “HLB” means the hydrophilic- lipophilic balance at 25°C as
defined by Gr iffin.
The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm.
Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pp. 249-256.
20 As examples of preferred non ionic surfactants mention may be
made of polyethylene glycol-7 (PEG-7) glycer yl cocoate (HLB = 10)
and polyethylene glyco l-6 caprylic capric triglycer ide (HLB = 13.2).
Polyethylene glycol-7 glyceryl cocoate is particular ly preferred.
The non ionic surfactant chosen from polyethoxylated esters of
25 fatt y acids is preferably present in an amount ranging from 1 to 25%
by weight, better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better from 5 to
15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, t he non ionic surfactant
chosen from polyethoxylated glyceryl esters of fatt y acids,
30 polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatt y acids, and mixture thereof, is
preferably present in an amount ranging from 1 to 25% by weight,
better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better from 5 to 15% b y
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15
The composition of the invention can also contain additional
non ionic surfactants, different from the polyethoxylated este rs of
fatt y acids.
Such contain additional non ionic surfactants can be chose n
from alco hols, α -diols and (C1-20)alkylphenols, these compound5 s
being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or
polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or prop ylene oxide
groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol
groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; these compounds may contain at
10 least one fatt y chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and
especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention ma y also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide
and of propylene o xide with fatt y alcohols; polyethoxylated fatt y
amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units,
15 polyglycerolated fatt y amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and
in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; N-(C6-24 alkyl)glucamine
derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-
(C10-14 acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Mention ma y also be made of non ionic surfactants of
20 alkyl(poly)glycoside t ype, represented especially b y the following
general formula:
R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v
in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl r adical
25 comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical
comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon
atoms,
30 - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds
of the formula described above in which:
16
- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl
radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon
atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal t5 o
0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymer ization, i. e. the value of v, possib ly
ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of
10 polymerization more particular ly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1 -
6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the
alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.
C8 -C1 6 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, and especially dec yl glucosides and
15 caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particular ly preferred.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the
products sold by the company COGNIS under the names
PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818,
1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the
20 names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the
company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the
products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.
Preferably, use is made of C8 -C1 6 -alkyl(poly)glyco sides 1,4,
especially as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis
25 under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
Preferentially, the additional nonionic surfactants are chose n
from (C6 -C2 4 alkyl)polyglycosides and more particular ly (C8 -C1 8
alkyl)(poly)glycosides ; polyethoxylated C8 -C3 0 fatt y alcohols
preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, more
30 preferably from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; and mixtures thereof.
When present, said additional surfactant is preferab ly present
in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2
to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, most
17
preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
Polyols:
The polyols used in the composition of the invention are
preferably liquid at 25°C and atmospher ic pressure (1 atm.)5 .
Preferably, the polyols used have the corresponding formula
(IV) :
(IV)
10 in which R’1, R’2 , R’3 and R’4 denote, independently of eac h
other, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl r adical or a C1 -C6 mono- or
polyhydroxyalkyl radical,
A denote s a linear or branched alkylene radical containing
from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxyge n
15 atoms,
m denotes 0 or 1.
A first group of preferred polyo ls consists of the polyols of
formula (IV) for which m = 0, such as prop ylene glycol, glycerol,
1,2,3-propanetr iol, pinacol (2,3 -dimethyl-2,3-butanedio l), 1,2,3-
20 butanetr iol, 2,3-butanediol and sorbitol.
A second group of preferred polyols co nsists of the polyo ls of
formula (IV) for which m = 1 and R’1 , R’2 , R’3 and R’4 denote,
independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1 -C6 alkyl radical.
Among these polyols, polyethylene glycols, for instance the product
25 known as PEG-8 or PEG-400 in the CTFA publication (International
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionar y, 7th edition), are particu lar ly
preferred.
A third group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of
formula (IV) for which m = 1 and R’1, R’2, R’3 and R’4 denote,
C C
OH OH
R'2 R'3
R'1 A m R'4
18
independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1 -C6 alkyl radical,
and whose molecu lar weight is less than 200. Among these polyols, 3-
methyl-1,3,5-pentanetr iol, 1,2,4 -butanetriol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-
methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol,
neopent yl glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (5 3-
methyl-1,3-butanediol) and hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-
pentanediol) are preferably used, and even more preferably hexylene
glycol, neopent yl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol.
Preferably, the polyols are chosen from the compounds of
10 formula (IV) above for which m = 0, more preferably from propylene
glycol, glycerol, 1,2,3-propanetriol, pinacol (2,3 -dimethyl-2,3-
butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetr iol, 2,3-butanediol and sorbitol and
mixtures thereof, and even more preferably from propylene glycol,
glycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
15 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
composition contains a mixture of at least two polyo ls a disclosed
above, and most preferably a mixture of at least two polyo ls chose n
from prop ylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.
The polyol( s) may be present in the composition in a total
20 amount preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, more
preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, even more preferably from
15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cationic and/or amphoteric polymers
The composition of the invention further comprises one or
25 more polymers chosen from cationic and amphoteric polymers, and
also mixtures ther eof.
The term "cationic polymer " means in the present invention an y
polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be io nized
to cationic groups, that do not comprise anionic groups and/or groups
30 that can be ionized to anionic groups
Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain
units comprising primar y, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine
19
groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be
borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
The cationic polymers that ma y be used preferab ly have a
weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5×106
approximately and preferably between 103 and 3×106 approximately5 .
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more
particular ly of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymer s derived from acrylic o r methacr ylic
ester s or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the
10 following formulae:
R3
C
C
O
A
N
CH2
O
R2 R1
R3
C
C
O
A
N+
O
R4 R6
R5
XCH
2
R3
C
C
NH
A
N
CH2
O
R1 R2
R3
C
C
NH
A
N+
CH2
O
R4
R5
R6
X
_
15 in which:
- R3 , which ma y be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a
CH3 group;
- A, which ma y be identical or different, represent a linear or branched
divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon
20
atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4 , R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl
group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and
preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R1 and R2 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydroge5 n
atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and
preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a
methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
10 The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units
derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of
acrylamides, methacr ylamides, diacetone acr ylamides, acr ylamides and
methacr ylamides substituted on the nitrogen with C1 -C4 alkyls, acr ylic
or methacrylic esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylp yrrolidone or
15 vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymer s of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acr ylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the
product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
20 - copolymers of acr ylamide and of methacrylo yloxyethyl -
trimethylammonium chlor ide, such as those sold under the name Bina
Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacr ylo yloxyethyltrimethylammonium
methosulfate, such as the product sold under the
25 name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl
acrylate or methacr ylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the
name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or
Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958
30 and 937. These polymers are descr ibed in detail in French patents
2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacr ylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylp yrrolidone
terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by
the company ISP,
21
- vinylp yrrolidone/methacr ylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymer s,
such as those sold under the name St yleze CC 10 by ISP;
- quaternized vinylp yrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacr ylamide
copolymer s such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 b y
the company ISP5 ,
- preferably crosslinked polymers of methacr ylo yloxy(C1 -C4 )alkyl
tri(C1 -C4 )alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained b y
homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized
with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acr ylamide wit h
10 dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the
homo- or copolymer ization being followed by crosslinking with an
olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularl y
methylenebisacr ylamide. A crosslinked acr ylamide/
methacr ylo yloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 b y
15 weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of the
said copolymer in mineral o il may be used more particular ly. This
dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
A crosslinked methacr ylo yloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride
homopolymer comprising about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in
20 mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions ar e
sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the
company Ciba.
(2) Cationic polysacchar ides, especially cationic celluloses and cationic
galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysacchar ides, mention ma y
25 be made more particular ly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising
quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose
derivatives gr afted with a water -soluble quaternary ammonium monomer
and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternar y ammonium
30 groups are especially described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be
made of the polymer s sold under the name Ucare Polymer “JR” (JR 400
LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company
Amerchol. These polymer s are also defined in the CTFA dictionar y as
quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have reacted wit h
22
an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted
with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are descr ibed
especially in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of
hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl -, hydroxyethyl- o5 r
hydroxyprop ylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a
methacr ylo ylethyltrimethylammonium, methacr ylamidopropyl trimethylammonium
or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products
corresponding to this definition are more particular ly the products sold
10 under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company
National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are descr ibed more
particular ly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, and mention ma y be
made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium grou ps. Use
15 is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3 -
epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt ( for example, a chloride). Such
products are especially sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15,
Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.
(3) Polymer s composed of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or
20 hydroxyalkylene groups containing linear or branched chains, optionall y
interrupted by o xygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or
heterocyclic r ings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products
of these polymers.
(4) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular b y
25 polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these
polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalo hydr in, a diepoxide,
a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydr ide, a bis-unsaturated derivative,
a bis-halohydr in, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyld iamine, a bis-alkyl
halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a
30 difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bisazetidinium,
a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin,
a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being
used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of
the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if the y
23
comprise one or more tertiar y amine functions, the y can be quaternized.
(5) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of
polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed b y
alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention ma y be made, for example,
of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyld ialkylenetr iamine polymers i5 n
which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and
preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Amo ng these derivat ives,
mention ma y be made more particularly of the adipic
acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetr iamine polymers sold
10 under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(6) Polymer s obtained b y reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising
two primary amine groups and at least one secondar y amine group with a
dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic
dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio
15 between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid
preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide
being reacted with epichlorohydr in in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin
relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide preferab l y
of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this t ype are so ld in particular
20 under the name Hercosett 57 b y the company Hercules Inc. or
alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 b y the company
Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetr iamine
copolymer.
(7) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium,
25 such as the homopolymers or copolymer s containing, as main constituent
of the chain, units corresponding to formula (PI) or (PII):
CR12
H C 2
N+
CH2
C(R12)-CH2-
(CH2)k
-(CH2)t-
R10 R11
(I) YCR
12
H C 2
N
CH2
C(R12)-CH2-
(CH2)k
-(CH2)t-
R10
(II)
(PI) (PII)
24
in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R1 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
- R1 0 and R11 , independently of each other, denote an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which th5 e
alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C1 -C4 amidoalkyl group; or
alternatively R1 0 and R1 1 ma y denote, together with the nitrogen atom to
which the y are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or
morpholinyl; R1 0 and R1 1 , independently of each other, preferabl y
10 denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
- Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate,
tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, su lfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particu lar ly of the
dimethyld iallylammonium salt ( for example chlor ide) homopolymer for
15 example sold under the name Merquat 100 b y the company Nalco (and
homologues thereof of low weight-average molar masses) and the
copolymer s of diallyld imethylammonium salts (for example chlor ide)
and of acrylamide, sold especially unde r the name Merquat 550 or
Merquat 7SPR.
20 (8) quaternar y diammonium polymer s comprising repeating units of
formula:
N+
R13
R14
A1 N+
R15
R16
B1
X- X-
(III)
in which:
- R1 3 , R1 4, R15 and R1 6 , which may be identical or different, represent
25 aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20
carbon atoms or C1 -C4 hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or alternativel y
R1 3, R1 4, R1 5 and R16 , together or separately, constitute, with the
nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heteroc ycles optionall y
comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternativel y
30 R1 3, R14 , R1 5 and R1 6 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group
substituted with a nitr ile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-
(PIII))
25
R1 7-D or -CO-NH-R17 -D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternar y
ammonium group;
- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2
to 20 carbon atoms which ma y be linear or branched, and saturated or
unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the mai5 n
chain, one or more aromatic r ings, or one o r more oxygen or sulfur
atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl,
quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
10 it being understood that A1 , R1 3 and R1 5 can form, with the two nitrogen
atoms to which the y are attached, a piperazine ring.
In addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 can also denote a
group (CH2 )n-CO-D-OC-(CH2 )n- in which D denotes:
15 a) a glycol r esidue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear
or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or a group corresponding to one
of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2 -O) x-CH2 -CH2 - and -[CH2 -
CH(CH3 )-O]y-CH2 -CH(CH3 )-, where x and y denote an int eger from 1 to
4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymer ization or any
20 number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymer izatio n;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y
denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or alternatively the
divalent group -CH2 -CH2 -S-S-CH2-CH2 -;
25 d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These
polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between
1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that ar e
30 composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
26
N+
R2
R1
(CH2)n N+
R4
R3
(CH2)p (IV)
X- Xin
which R1 , R2 , R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote
an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
and X- is an anio n derived from a mineral or organic acid5 .
A compound of formula (PIV) that is particular ly preferred is the
one for which R1, R2 , R3 and R4 represent a methyl group and n = 3, p =
6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to
the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
10 (9) Polyquaternar y ammonium polymers comprising units of formula
(PV) :
N+
R19
R18
(CH2)r NH CO (CH2)q CO NH (CH2)s
R21
R20
N+ A
XX-
(V)
15 in which:
- R1 8 , R1 9 , R2 0 and R2 1 , which ma y be identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl,  -hydroxyethyl,  -
hydroxyprop yl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2 ) pOH group, where p is equal to 0
or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R1 8, R1 9, R2 0 and
20 R2 1 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and
6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide,
25 - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably r epresents -CH2 -CH2-OCH2
-CH2 -.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mir apol®
A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mir apol® 175 sold by the
(PIV)
(PV)
27
company Miranol.
(10) Quaternar y polymers of vinylp yrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for
instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550
and FC 370 b y the company BASF.
(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to unde5 r
the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA
dictionar y.
(12) Polymer s comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
10
CH2 CH
NH2
(A)
(b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
CH2 CH
NH C
O
H
(B)
15 In other words, these polymer s ma y be chosen especially from
homopolymers or copolymer s comprising one or more units derived from
vinylamine and optionally one or more units der ived from
vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymer s
20 comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of unit s
corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of unit s
corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol%
of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of unit s
corresponding to formula (B).
25 These polymer s may be obtained, for example, by partial
hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis ma y be performed in
an acidic or basic med ium.
The weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer,
measured by light scatter ing, ma y ra nge from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol,
30 preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particular ly from
28
100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The catio nic charge densit y of these polymers may range from 2
to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particular ly from
3.5 to 10 meq/g.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionall 5 y
units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by the
company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products
sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095,
Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
10 Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the
invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates,
polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymer s
comprising vinylp yridine or vinylp yr idinium units, condensates o f
polyamines and of epichlorohydr in, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin
15 derivatives.
Preferably, the cationic polymers are chosen from the polymer s
of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above.
Among the cationic polymers mentioned above, the ones that
ma y preferably be used are cationic polys accharides, especially cationic
20 celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular
quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under
the name JR 400 by the company Amerchol, cationic c yclopolymer s, in
particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt ( for example chloride)
homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100,
25 Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, and homologues
thereof of low weight-average molecular weights, quaternar y polymer s
of vinylp yrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked
homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylo yloxy(C1 -C4)alkyltri(C1 -
C4 )alkylammonium salts; and mixtures thereof.
30 It is also possible to use amphoteric polymers.
The amphoteric (or zwitter ionic) polymer s that may be used in
accordance with the invention ma y be chosen from polymer s
comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain,
where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least
29
one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit der ived from an acid
monomer comprising o ne or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or
alternatively B and C may denote groups derived from carboxyb etaine
or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers;
B and C ma y also denote a cationic polymer chain comprisin5 g
primary, secondar y, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at
least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group
connected via a hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively B and C
form part of a chain of a polymer comprising and α,β -dicarboxylic
10 ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to
react with a polyamine comprising one or more primar y or secondar y
amine groups.
The amphoteric polymers can in particular be chosen from
amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
15 (i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acr ylamide type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acr ylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acr ylic
acid type.
20 Preferably, the units derived from a monomer o f
(meth)acr ylamide type (i) are units of structure (Ia) below:
CH2
O R2
R1
(Ia)
in which R1 denotes H or CH3 and R2 is chosen from an amino,
dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH2OH group.
25 Preferably, the said amphoter ic polymer comprises a repetition
of only one unit of formula (Ia).
The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acr ylamide typ e of
formula (Ia) in which R1 denotes H and R2 is an amino group (NH2 ) is
particular ly preferred. It corresponds to the acr ylamide monomer per se.
30 Preferably, the units derived from a monomer o f
(meth)acr ylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type ( ii) are units of structure
30
(IIa) below:
CH2
O NH
R3
R4
N+
R R7 6
R5
Y
(IIa)
in which:
- R3 denotes H or CH3 ,
5 - R4 denotes a group (CH2 )k with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6
and preferably from 2 to 4;
- R5 , R6 and R7 , which may be identical or different, each denote an
alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate,
10 tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Preferably, the said amphoter ic polymer comprises a repetition
of only one unit of formula (IIa).
Among these units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acr ylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of formula (IIa), the one s
15 that are preferred are those derived from the
methacr ylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which
R3 denotes a methyl group, k is equal to 3, R5 , R6 and R7 denote a
methyl group, and Y- denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units der ived from a monomer of (meth)acr ylic
20 acid type ( iii) are units of formula (IIIa):
CH2
O R9
R8
(IIIa)
in which R8 denotes H or CH3 and R9 denotes a hydroxyl group or a
-NH-C(CH3)2 -CH2 -SO3H group.
31
The preferred units of formula (IIIa) correspond to the acr ylic
acid, methacr ylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesu lfo nic acid
monomers.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acr ylic
acid type of formula ( IIIa) is that derived from acrylic acid, for whic5 h
R8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl group.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be nonneutralized
or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral
base.
10 Preferably, the said amphoter ic polymer comprises a repetition
of only one unit of formula (IIIa).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
amphoteric polymer(s) of this t ype comprise at least 30 mol% of unit s
derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide t ype (i). Prefer ably, the y
15 comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol%
to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acr ylamide type.
The content of units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acr ylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageousl y
be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55
20 mol%.
The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of
(meth)acr ylic acid typ e (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20
mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
According to a particular ly preferred embodiment of the
25 invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60
mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide t ype ( i),
- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and prefer entially from 20 mol% to 55
mol% of units derived from a monomer of
30 (meth) acr ylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and
- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and prefer entially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%
of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Amphoteric polymers of this t ype ma y also comprise additional
units, other than the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acr ylamide
32
type, of (meth)acr ylamidoalkyltr ialkylammonium type and of
(meth)acr ylic acid type as descr ibed above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention,
the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from
monomers of (meth)acrylamide type ( i), of (meth) acrylamidoalkyl5 -
trialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
As particularly preferred examples of such amphoteric polymers,
mention may be made of acr ylamide/methylacr ylamidopropyltrimethylammonium
chloride/acr ylic acid terpolymer s. Such polymer s
10 are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,
10th edition 2004, under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding
products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat
2003 PR by the company Nalco.
Another preferred type of amp hoteric polymers is the polymer s
15 comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more non ionic units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acr ylate t ype,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acr ylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
20 (iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acr ylic
acid type.
The monomers of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type
and the acidic monomers of (meth)acr ylic acid type (monomers ( ii) and
(iii) respectively) are as described above.
25 The non ionic monomers (i) of (meth)acr ylate t ype are preferabl y
chosen from C1 -C4 alkyl acr ylates and methacrylates. A preferred
monomer is methyl acr ylate.
As particularly preferred examples of such amphoteric polymers,
mention may be made of acrylic acid /methylacr ylamidopropyl30
trimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylate terpolymers. Such
polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary u nder the name Polyquaternium 47. Corresponding products
are especially sold under the names Merquat 200 1 and Merquat 2001N
by the company Nalco.
33
As another type of preferred amphoteric polymer that may be
used, mention may also be made of copolymer s based on (meth) acr ylic
acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of
(meth) acr ylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmeti5 c
Ingred ient Dictionar y, under the name Polyquaternium 22. An example
of corresponding product is so ld under the name Merquat 280 by the
company Nalco.
Among the cationic and amphoteric polymers described above,
10 those having a cationic charge densit y ranging from 0.2 to 5 meq/g ar e
preferred.
Among these polymers, the amphoteric polymers ar e particularl y
preferred. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition
of the invention comprises one or more amphoteric polymer(s).
15 Most preferred are Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 47,
Polyquaternium 53, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the
invention contains at least two different polymers chosen from cationic
and amphoteric polymers, such as two different polymers, preferabl y
20 two different amphoter ic polymer s; or three different polymers,
preferably three different amphoter ic polymers.
The total amount of cationic and amphoteric polymer(s)
advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferabl y
from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and most preferably from 0.4 to 3% b y
25 weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition.
Silicones
The composition according to the present invention ma y further
contain one or more silicones. Such silicones can be chosen in
particular from non-amino silicones, amino silicones and mixtures
30 thereof.
In the present invention, the term “silicone” is intended to
denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, an y
organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or
crosslinked structure, of var iable molecular we ight, obtained b y
34
polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized
silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in
which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms ( siloxane
bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals
being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. Th5 e
hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl
radicals, especially C1 -C10 alkyl r adicals, and in particular methyl,
fluoroalkyl radica ls, the alkyl part of which is C1 -C10 , and aryl
radicals and in particu lar phenyl.
10 According to the present invention, the term “non-amino
silicone” denotes any silicone not containing at least one primar y,
seco ndary or tertiar y amine, or a quaternary ammonium group.
The non-amino silicones, which can be used in the compositio n
according to the invention, are, in particular, polyorganosilo xanes that
15 ma y be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walte r
Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
The silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
When the y ar e volatile, the silicones are more particular l y
20 chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C,
and even more particular ly from:
(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to
5 silicon atoms.
These are, for example, octamethylc yclotetrasiloxane sold
25 especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by the company
Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silico ne
7158 by the company Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by the
company Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
30 Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone
FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure:
35
Mention may also be made of mixtures of c yclic silicones wit h
organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of
octamethylc
yclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(tr imethyl silyl)5 -
pentaerythr itol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylc yclo -
tetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexa trimethylsilyloxy)
neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and
10 having a viscosit y of less than or equal to 5×10-6 m2/s at 25°C. An
example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name
SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belo nging to this
category are also described in the article published in Co smetics and
Toiletr ies, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27 -32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone
15 Fluids for Cosmetics.
When the silicones are non-volatile, use is preferably made of
polyalkylsiloxanes, polyar ylsilo xanes, polyalkylar ylsiloxanes, silico ne
gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified wit h
organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
20 These silico nes are more particularly chosen from
polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsilo xanes containing tr imethylsilyl end group s
(Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosit y of from
5×10-6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C and preferably 1×10-5 to 1 m2 /s. The
25 viscosit y of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according
to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Among these polya lkylsilo xanes, mention ma y be made, in a
non- limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
36
- the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil
oils sold by the company Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500
000,
- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia,
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning5 ,
such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt,
- the Viscasil oils from the company General Electr ic and
certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company Gener al
Electric.
10 Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing
dimethylsilano l end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA
name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
Mention could be made of dimethiconol emulsions, for example
with anionic surfactants, preferably having a low particle size such a s
15 less than 500nm, preferably less than 200 nm.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing
α,ω-silanol groups.
In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention ma y also be
made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801
20 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1 -C20 )alkylsiloxanes.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes ar e particularly chosen from linear
and/or branched po lydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1×10 -5 to
5×10-2m²/s at 25°C.
25 Among these polyalkylar ylsiloxanes, examples that may be
mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- Silbione oils of the 70 641 series from the company Rhodia,
- the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from the
company Rhodia,
30 - the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from the
company Dow Corning,
- silicones of the PK series from the company Bayer, such a s
the product PK20,
37
- the silicones of the PN and PH ser ies from the company
Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000,
- certain oils of the SF series from the company Gener al
Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
The silicone gums that may be present in the compositio5 n
according to the invention are especially polyd iorganosiloxanes
having high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and
1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be
chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils,
10 polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins,
polyisobutylenes, methylene chlor ide, pentane, dodecane and
tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made more particularly of the following
products:
15 - polydimethylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methyl vinylsiloxane gums.
20 Products that ma y be used more particularly are the following
mixtures:
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at
the end of the chain (known as dimethiconol according to the
nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic
25 polydimethylsilo xane (known as c yclomethicone according to the
nomenclature of the CTFA dictionar y), such as the product Q2 1401
sold by the company Dow Corning,
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a
cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Sil ico ne Fluid from the
30 company General Electr ic, this product being an SF 30 gum
corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular
weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid
corresponding to decamethylc yclopentasiloxane,
38
- mixtures of two PDMSs with d ifferent viscosities, and more
particular ly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF
1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a
mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosit y of 20 m²/s and
of an oil SF 96 with a viscosit y of 5×10 -6 m²/s. This produc5 t
preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the
composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane
systems co ntaining the following units: R2SiO2 /2 , R3SiO1 /2 , RSiO3 / 2
10 and SiO4 /2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to
16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, the ones
that are particular ly preferred are those in which R denot es a C1 -C4
alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold
15 under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names
Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric,
which are silicones of dimethyl/tr imethyls iloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the trimethyl silo xysilicate t ype
resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and
20 X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The organomodified silicones that may be present in the
composition according to the invention ar e silicones as defined above
and comprising in their structure one or more organofu nctional groups
attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
25 Among the organomodified silicones, mentio n may be made of
polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- polyethyleneoxy and/or polyprop yleneoxy groups optionall y
comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as
dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the
30 name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the
company Union Carbide, and the (C1 2 )alkylmethicone copolyol so ld b y
the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200, or in particular
the silicone of INCI name PEG-12 dimethicone such as the product
XIAMETER OFX-0193 FLUID sold b y Dow Corning.
39
- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names
GP 72 A and GP 71 from the company Genesee,
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name
Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434
and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt5 ,
- hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes
containing a hydroxyalkyl function, descr ibed in French patent
application FR 2 589 476,
- acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes
10 described in patent US-A-4 957 732,
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, for instance in the
products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company Chisso
Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic t ype, such as those present in
the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl
15 sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulphate such as the products sold b y
the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255.
According to the invention, silicones comprising a
polysiloxane portion and a non-silicone organic chain portion, one of
the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the
20 other being grafted onto the said main chain, can also be used. These
polymers ar e descr ibed, for example, in patent applications EP-A-
412,704, ep-a-412,707, ep-a-640,105 and WO95/00578, ep-a-582,152
and WO93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and
4,972,037, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated b y
25 refer ence herein. These polymers are preferably anionic or non- ionic.
Such polymers are, for example, copolymers, which may be
obtained b y radical polymer ization from a monomer mixture
comprising:
a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acr ylate;
30 b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; 5 to 40% by weight of
silicone macromer of formula:
wherein,
V is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being
calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
40
Other examples of grafted silicone polymers ar e, in particular,
polydimethylsilo xane (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a
connecting cha in of thioprop ylene t ype, mixed polymer units of the
poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polyalkyl(methyl)acr ylate t ype
and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) on which are grafted, via 5 a
connecting chain of thioprop ylene t ype, polymer units of the
polyisobutyl(meth) acr ylate t ype.
Preferably, the non amino silicones are chosen from
polyalkylsiloxanes and polyorganosiloxanes comprising
10 polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, and more
preferentially from polydimethylsiloxanes, ethoxylated
polydimethylsilo xanes and mixtures thereof.
The no n-amino silicones, which can be used in the present
invention preferably have a viscosit y equals to 60 000 cst at 25°C and
15 shear rate 1s-1 .
The viscosity may be measured at 25°C with viscosimeter s or
rheometer s preferably with cone-plan geometry.
The silicones used in the composition of the invention may
also be chosen from amino silicones.
20 For the purposes of the present invention, the term “amino
silicone” means any silicone comprising at least one primar y,
seco ndary or tertiar y amine function or a quaternar y ammonium group.
The amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic
composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
25 (a) the compounds corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:
(R1 )a (T)3 - aSi[OSi(T)2 ]n[OSi(T)b(R1)2 -b ]mOSi(T)3- a(R1 )a (XVIII)
wherein,
30 - T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C1-C8 alkyl
group, and preferably methyl, or a C1 -C8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
- a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0 ,
- b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1,
41
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especiall y
from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n
to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particu lar from 49 to 149,
and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1
to 10, an5 d
- R1 is a monovalent group of formula -CqH2 qL in which q is a number
from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chose n
from the following groups:
-N(R2 )-CH2 -CH2-N(R2 )2 ;
10 -N(R2 )2,
-N+(R2 )3 Q- ,
-N+(R2 ) (H)2 Q- ,
-N+(R2 )2HQ- ,
-N(R2 )-CH2 -CH2-N+(R2 )(H)2 Q- ,
15 wherein, R2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benz yl or a
saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C1 -C2 0
alkyl group, and Q- represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride,
chloride, bromide or iodide.
In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the
20 definition of formula (XVIII) are chosen from the compounds
corresponding to formula (XIX) below:
O Si O Si
CH3
CH3 R'
Si
CH3
CH3
R O Si
CH3
CH3
R"
(CH2)2
NH2
A
n
m
NH
I
(XIX)
42
wherein, R, R’ and R”, which may be identical or different, denote a
C1 -C4 alkyl group, preferably CH3 ; a C1 -C4 alkoxy group, preferabl y
methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C3 -C8 and
preferably C3 -C6 alkylene group; m and n are integers dependent o n
the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 20005 .
According to a first possibility, R, R’ and R”, which may be
identical or differ ent, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A
represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight -
average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000
10 approximately. Compounds of this t ype are referred to in the CTFA
dictionar y as “amodimethicones”.
According to a second possibilit y, R, R’ and R”, which may be
identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl
group, at least one of the groups R or R” is an alkoxy group and A
15 represents a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alko xy mole ratio is
preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of
the compound is between 2000 and 10 6. More particularly, n is
between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m
20 being between 1 and 1000.
In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter
alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker.
According to a third possibilit y, R and R”, which are different,
each represent a C1 -C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the
25 groups R or R” being an alkoxy group, R’ representing a meth yl group
and A representing a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole
ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal
to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight - average
molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 2 00 000. More
30 particular ly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the
sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid
WR® 1300 sold by the company Wacker.
43
Note that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined
by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polyst yr ene
standard; μ st yr agem columns; elu ent T HF; flow rate 1 mm/minute;
200 μl of a so lu tion containing 0.5% b y weight of silicone in T HF are
injected, and detection is performed by refractometr y and UV-metry)5 .
A product corresponding to the definition of formula (XIX) is
in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionar y as
Trimethylsilyl Amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (XX)
below:
10
SiO
CH3
CH3
n
m
Si(CH3)3
NH2
SiO
CH2
CH3
CHCH3
CH2
NH
(CH3)3 SiO
(CH2)2
(XX)
wherein, n and m have the meanings given above in accordance wit h
formula (XVIII).
15 Such compounds are descr ibed, for example, in patent EP
95238. A compound of formula (XX) is sold, for example, under the
name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (XXI) below:
44
+ -
r s
CHOH CH2 N (R )3 Q
R
R
R3
3
3
Si R
R
Si O Si O Si O
R
R CH2
R
R
R3
3
3
3 3
3
4 3
(XXI)
wherein,
- R3 represents a C1 -C1 8 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in
5 particular a C1 -C1 8 alkyl or C2 -C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
- R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a C1 -
C1 8 alkylene group or a divalent C1 -C1 8 , and for example C1 -C8,
alkyleno xy group,
- Q- is a halide ion, in particular chloride;
10 - r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular
from 2 to 8, and
- s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular
from 20 to 50.
Such compounds are descr ibed more particular ly in patent US-
15 4 185 087.
A compound falling within this class is the product sold by the
company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
(c) quaternar y ammonium silicones especially of formula
(XXII) :
20
O Si
R7
CH2 CHOH CH2 N+
R7
R7
R7 R7
R8
R7
R6 R8 N+
R7
R7
CH2CH CH2
OH
R6 Si
r (XII)
2Xwherein,
- R7 , which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent
25 hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in
(XXII)
45
particular a C1 -C18 alkyl group, a C2 -C1 8 alkenyl group or a ring
comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a C1 -
C1 8 alkylene group or a divalent C1 -C1 8 , and for example C1 -C8 ,
alkyleno xy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond5 ,
- R8 , which may be identical or differ ent, represent a hydrogen atom,
a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon
atoms, and in particular a C1 -C18 alkyl group, a C2-C1 8 alkenyl group
or a group -R6-NHCOR7 ;
10 - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an
organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); and
- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular
from 5 to 100.
These silicones are described, for example, in patent
15 application EP-A-0 530 974.
d) the amino silicones of formula (XXIII) below:
O
(CnH2n)
NH
(CmH2m)
NH2
Si Si O Si
R3
R5
R4
R1
R2
x 3
(XXIII)
20 wherein,
- R1 , R2, R3 and R4 , which ma y be identical or differ ent, denote a C1 -
C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
- R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
25 - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
46
When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous
embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic
surfactants.
By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under
the name Cationic Emulsion DC939 b y the company Dow Corning, 5 a
cationic surfactant, namely tr imethylcetylammonium chloride and a
nonionic surfactant of formula C1 3H2 7 -(OC2H4 )12 -OH, known under the
CTFA name Trideceth-12.
Another commercial product that ma y be used according to the
10 invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 b y
the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, trimethylsilyl
amodimethicone of formula (XX) described above, a nonionic
surfactant of formula C8H1 7 -C6H4 -(OCH2CH2 )40 -OH, known under the
CTFA name Octo xyno l-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula
15 C1 2H2 5-(OCH2 -CH2)6 -OH, known under the CTFA name Isolaureth-6,
and propylene glycol.
The silicones of the invention ma y also be silicones grafted
with anionic groups, such as the compounds VS 80 or VS 70 sold b y
the company 3M.
20 Preferentially, the amino silicones used in the prese nt
invention ar e the products sold under the names DC 8194, DC 8299,
DC 1689, DC 5-7113, DC 8500, DC 8566, DC8170 and DC 8401 by the
company Dow Corning.
According to the invention, the silicones can be used in the
25 form of emulsions, t ypically having particle size ranging from 50 nm
to 1 0 μm, more preferab ly from 100 nm to 1 μm, and even more
preferably from 2 00 to 500 nm.
Indeed, silicon deposition r emains high, irrespective to the
molecular weight, when the particle size is preferably ranging from
30 100 nm to 10 μm.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
composition contains o ne or more non-amino silicones as descr ibed
above.
47
In a more preferred embodiment, the composition contains o ne
or more non-amino silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or
polypropyleneoxy groups, still better polyethyleneoxy groups.
In another more preferred embodiment, the compositio n
contains o ne or more polydimethylsiloxanes containin5 g
dimethylsilano l end groups (also known as d imethiconol), preferabl y
in emulsion form, more preferably having a low particle size such as
less than 500 nm, preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm.
The amount of silicone(s) advantageously ranges from 0.1 to
10 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and
even more prefer ably from 0.7 to 5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
Fatt y alcohols
The composition, according to the present invention, ma y
15 further contain one or more fatty alcohols, containing at least 8 carbon
atoms.
Indeed, the particular combination of surfactants and polyols of
the composition makes it possible to solubilise fatty alcohols in said
composition while keeping an optically clear appearance thereof.
20 For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatt y
alcohol” means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
alcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and which is not
oxyalkylenated.
Preferably, the fatt y alcohols are solid at room temperature
25 (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 5 Pa).
The fatty alcohols ar e preferably chosen from the compounds
of general formula (I)
R-OH (I)
30
wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or br anched
radical containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon
atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
48
R preferably denotes a linear or branched C8 -C3 0 , more
preferentially C1 2 -C1 8 alkyl or a linear or branched C8 -C3 0, more
preferentially C1 2-C1 8 alkenyl group, and better still linear. R may be
substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
Examples of fatty alcohols that ma y be mentioned include cety5 l
alcohol, stear yl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linole yl
alcohol, palmitole yl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and myr istyl alcohol,
and mixtures thereof.
The fatt y alcohol may represent a mixture of fatt y alcohols,
10 which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the
form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
Fatt y alcohol mixtures that ma y be mentio ned include
cet ylstear yl (or cetearyl) alcohol.
Among all the fatty alco hols that ma y be used according to the
15 invention, use is preferably made of one or more fatt y alcohols chose n
from cet yl alcohol, stear yl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures
thereof such as cetear yl alcohol.
The amount of fatt y alcohols, in the composition of the present
invention, advantageously r anges from 0.05 to 15% by weight,
20 preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferentially from
0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosmetically acceptable medium
The composition according to the present invention,
advantageously comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
25 The term “cosmetically acceptable medium” means a medium
that is compatible with human ker atin fibres, such as the hair.
The cosmetically acceptable medium can be formed from water
or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable
solvents chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol and
30 isopropanol; and polyo l ether s, for instance prop ylene glyco l
monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monometh yl
ether, and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
advantageously comprises water in an amount preferably ranging from
49
30 to 98% by weight, more preferentially from 40 to 95% b y weigh,
and better still from 50to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition.
Additives
The cosmetic composition according to the present inventio 5 n
ma y further comprise one or more additive( s) other than the
compounds of the inventio n.
As additives that ma y be used in accordance with the invention,
mention may be made of cationic surfactants, anionic or non ionic
10 polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea
agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair
regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens,
mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers,
acidifying agents, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydrox y
15 acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
Needless to sa y, a person skilled in the art will take car e to
select this or these optional additional compou nd(s) such that the
advantageous properties intr insically associated with the compositio n
according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversel y
20 affected by the envisaged addition( s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amou nt, for
each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
The composition of the invention is advantageousl y
25 transparent. The transparenc y of the composition may be character ized
by measuring its turbidit y according to the NTU method using a 2100P
model turbidimeter from the company Hach, at room temperature. The
turbidit y of the compositions of the invention is preferably less tha n
200 NTU units, more preferably less than 100 NTU units, even more
30 preferably less than 50 NTU, most preferably less than 20 NTU and
better still less than 10 NTU units.
According to a particular ly preferred embodiment, the prese nt
invention concerns a composition containing:
- from 0.5 to 8% by weight of one or more anionic surfactants,
50
- from 2 to 5% by weight of one or more amphoteric or
zwitter ionic surfactants,
- from 5 to 15% by weight of one or more non ionic
surfactants chosen from polyetho xylated glycer yl esters of fatt y acids,
polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatt y acids, and mixture ther eof5 ,
- from 15% to 30% by weight of one or more polyols,
- from 0.4 to 3% by weight of one or more amphoteric
polymers, and
- from 0.7 to 5% by weight of one or more silico nes,
10 preferably chosen from non-amino silicones comprising
polyethyleneoxy groups, polydimethylsiloxanes containing
dimethylsilano l end groups, and mixtures thereof,
all percentages being expressed with r egard to the total weight
of the composition.
15 The present invention also relates to a method for washing
and/or conditioning keratin fibres, such as hair, which consists in
applying to the said keratin fibres a composition as descr ibed above,
and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.
The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres ma y
20 range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to
10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres ,
preferably to wet ker atin fibres.
Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a
25 composition as described above for washing and/or conditioning
keratin fibres.
In the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” denotes
human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the inventio n
30 without, however, being limiting in nature.
51
EXAMPLES
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, all
amounts are given as mass percentages of active material relative to
the total weight of the composition (% AM = % active matter)5 .
The following compositions were prepared using the
ingr edients indicated in the table below.
Ingredients
Amounts (% wt AM)
Composition 1 Composition 2
DISODIUM LAURETH
SULFOSUCCINATE 1 1
COCO-BETAINE 3 3
PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE 13 13
POLYSORBATE 20 1.2 2
SORBITOL 10.5 10.5
PROPYLENE GLYCOL 10 10
CAPRYLYL GLYCOL - 1
POLYQUATERNIUM-22 0.4 0.4
POLYQUATERNIUM-53 0.1 0.1
POLYQUATERNIUM-47 0.2 0.2
MYRISTYL ALCOHOL 1 -
PEG-12 DIMETHICONE 1 1
DIMETHICONOL - 2
52
SODIUM CHLORIDE Qs Qs
WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100
These two compositio ns were tested for different hair types ,
and exhibited ver y good performance s. Composition 2 is more
substantive on the hair and provided better dry hair performances.
53

We Claim :
1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more anionic surfactants,
- one or more amphoteric or zwitter ionic surfactants,
- one or more non ionic surfactant s chosen fro5 m
polyethoxylated esters of fatty acids,
- one or more polyo ls,
- one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers, and
- optionally, one or more silicones.
10 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic
surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 alkyl ether sulfates comprising
from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
15 - C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2 -C2 0 alkylsulfosuccinates, especiall y
laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates,
especially laureth sulfosuccinates;
- (C6 -C24 )ac ylisethionates and preferably (C1 2-
20 C1 8)ac ylisethionates;
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C12 -C20 acylsarcosinates; especiall y
palmitoylsarcosinates;
- (C6-C2 4)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (C1 2-C2 0)alkyl
ether carboxylates;
25 - polyoxyalkylenated (C6 -C24 )alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic
acids, in particular thos e comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and
in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 acylglutamates;
- C6 -C2 4 and especially C1 2-C2 0 acylglycinates;
30 in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal,
ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
3. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the amount of anionic surfactants ranges from 0.1 to 15% b y
54
weight, prefer ably from 0.3 to 10% by weight, even better from 0,5 to
8% b y weight, relative to the total we ight of the composition.
4. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the amphoteric or zwitter ionic surfactants are chosen from
seco ndary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionall 5 y
quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain
containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives
containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate,
sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and preferabl y
10 the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from from (C8 -
C2 0 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2 0 alkyl)amido(C2 -C8
alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures
thereof.
5. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
15 wherein the amount of the amphoter ic or zwitterionic surfactant( s)
ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% b y
weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
20 wherein the non ionic surfactant s chosen from polyethoxylated ester s
of fatt y acids have a HLB higher than 8, and preferably a HLB ranging
from 9 to 15.
7. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims ,
wherein the non ionic surfactants chosen from polyethoxylated ester s
25 of fatt y acids are chosen from polyethoxylated glyceryl esters of fatt y
acids, polyethoxylated sorbitan esters of fatt y acids, and mixture
thereof, and preferably from:
- ethoxylated esters of C8-C3 0 fatty acid and sorbitan,
preferably containing from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide,
30 - ethoxylated esters of C8-C3 0 fatty acid and glycerol,
preferably containing from 4 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 5
to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 6 to 25 mol of
ethylene oxide,
- and mixtures thereof.
55
8. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the amount of non ionic surfactant(s) chosen from
polyethoxylated ester s of fatt y acids ranges from 1 to 25% by weight,
better still from 2 to 20% by weight, even better from 5 to 15% b 5 y
weight relative to the total weight of the compositio n.
9. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the polyols have the corresponding formula (IV) :
(IV)
10 in which R’1, R’2 , R’3 and R’4 denote, independently of eac h
other, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl r adical or a C1 -C6 mono- or
polyhydroxyalkyl radical,
A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical co ntaining from
1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxyge n
15 atoms, and
m denotes 0 or 1.
10. Composition according to the preceding claim, where in
the polyols are chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) for whic h
m = 0, more preferably from propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2,3 -
20 propanetriol, 2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3-
butanediol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably
from prop ylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein the polyol(s) are present in an amount ranging from
25 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, eve n
more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
C C
OH OH
R'2 R'3
R'1 A m R'4
56
12. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein the cationic and amphoteric polymer s are chosen from
those having a cationic charge density ranging from 0.2 to 5 meq/g.
13. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein it comprises one or more amphoteric polymer(s) 5 ,
preferably chosen from Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 47,
Polyquaternium 53, and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein the total amount of cationic and amphoteric
10 polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from
0.1 to 5% by weight, and most pref erably from 0.4 to 3% b y weight,
with regard to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, further containing one or more fatty alcohols chosen from the
15 compounds of formula (I) :
R-OH (I)
wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or br anched
radical containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 28 carbon
atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
20 16. Composition according to the preceding claim, where in
the amount of fatty alcohols ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight,
preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to
5% b y weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
25 claims, further containing one or more silicone( s), preferably one or
more non-amino silicone(s), in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 15% b y
weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% b y weight, and more preferably
from 0.7 to 5% by weight, r elative to the total weight of the
composition.
30 18. Composition according to the preceding claim,
containing one or more non-amino silicones comprising
polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, preferabl y
polyethyleneoxy groups.
57
19. Composition according to claim 17, containing one or more
polydimethylsilo xanes containing dimethylsilano l end groups (also
known as d imethiconol), preferably in emulsion form having a particle
size of less than 500 nm.
20. Composition according to anyone of the precedin5 g
claims, further containing one or more additional non ionic surfactants
different from said polyethoxylated esters of fatt y acids, preferabl y
chosen from (C6 -C2 4 alkyl)polygl yco sides; polyethoxylated C8 -C3 0
fatt y alcohols containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide,
10 preferably from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; and mixtures thereof.
21. Composition according to the preceding claim, where in
said additional non ionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging
from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight,
better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, most preferably from 1 to 3% b y
15 weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. Method for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres
such as hair, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres a
composition as defined in anyone of the preceding claims, and after a n
optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.