Cosmetic composition comprising a particular combination of
surfactants, a silicone, a cationic polymer, a fatty alcohol and a
clay
5 The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition useful
for washing keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such
as the hair, which comprises one or more cationic and one or more
amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, one or more silicones, one or
more cationic polymers, one or more fatty alcohols and at least one
10 clay, preferably kaolinite, even better kaolin.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for washing
keratin fibres using such a composition.
Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition
for washing keratin fibres.
15 It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions
such as shampoos and shower gels, based essentially on surfactants,
for washing keratin materials such as the hair and the skin. These
compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably
wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands
20 or a toiletry flannel makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to
remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair or the
skin.
These compositions contain substantial contents of "detergent"
surfactants, which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic
25 compositions with good washing power, must especially give them
good foaming power.
The surfactants that are useful for this purpose are generally of
anionic, non ionic and/or amphoteric type, and particularly of anionic
type.
30 Admittedly these compositions have a good washing power, but
the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless
remain fairly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relatively
2
aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run,
lead to more or less pronounced damage to the keratin fibres, this
damage being associated in particular with the gradual removal of the
lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of said fibres.
5 Such damage to the hair leads to increased hair breakage in
particular during combing.
Thus, there is a real need to provide compositions for washing
keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, that do not have
the drawbacks described above, and in particular which are milder than
10 those of the prior art, and lead to a reduction of hair breakage, in
particular a reduction the breakage that occurs during combing after
the shampoo.
There is also a need to provide compositions containing
reduced amounts of anionic surfactants.
15 The composition should also have good detergent properties,
and present a good tolerance especially with respect to the skin,
mucous membranes, the scalp and the eyes.
Such compositions should furthermore have good properties of
use such as good foaming properties, and enhance the cosmetic
20 properties of the keratin fibres, namely by affording them softness,
smoothness and disentangling.
The Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition
comprising one or more cationic and one or more amphoteric or
zwitterionic surfactants, one or more silicones, one or more cationic
25 polymers, one or more fatty alcohols and a clay, makes it possible to
achieve the objectives outlined above.
Thus, the subject of the invention is especially a cosmetic
composition comprising:
- one or more cationic surfactants,
30 - one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
- one or more silicones,
- one or more cationic polymers,
- one or more fatty alcohols, and
- one or more clays.
3
The composition according to the invention has very good
cleaning properties. It especially provides a homogeneous foam which
has a good persistence over time.
Furthermore, the foam formed from the composition according
5 to the invention spreads easily and uniformly onto keratin fibres.
In addition, the composition according to the invention leads to
improved cosmetic properties, and especially affords good
conditioning of keratin fibres such as the hair, including when these
fibres are sensitized. Indeed, the composition of the invention
10 provides, for instance, smoothness, softness and disentangling to the
hair. The fibres are easy to disentangle without substantial breaking
thereof.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for washing
keratin fibres using this composition.
15 Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition
for washing keratin fibres.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the
invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description
and the example that follows.
20 In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits
of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the
expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present
description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
25 Cationic surfactants
The cosmetic composition comprises one or more cationic
surfactants.
The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is
positively charged when it is contained in the composition according
30 to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive
permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions
in the composition according to the invention.
4
The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from primary,
secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or
salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C 8-C30
5 hydrocarbon-based chain, and preferably a C12-C22 alkyl chain.
As example of fatty amines, mention may be made of
stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be
mentioned include:
10 - quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV)
R 8 \ / R 10
N
R 9X R 11
+
X
(IV)
wherein,
15 R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or
branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an
aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at
least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprises from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
20 X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that
chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1-C4)alkyl
sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates.
The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such
as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are
25 chosen, for example, from C 1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-
C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl,
(C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X- is an anion
chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 1-
C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
5
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), those
that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for
instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts
in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 16 to 22 carbon
5 atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium,
distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or
benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the
stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the
10 stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the
stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under
the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly
preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds.
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance, those
15 of formula (V)
R 13
C
N
N
/CH2CH2
R 14
N(R15) CO R 12
C
H2
C
H2
+
X
(V)
wherein, R12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to
30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R 13
20 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl
group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 14 represents a C1-C4
alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1-C4 alkyl group; Xis
an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates,
lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl
25 and aryl groups each preferably comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms
and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
6
5
10
15
20
R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl
groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example
from tallow fatty acids, R 14 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15
preferably denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for
example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula
(VI)
R
17
R16 N
R
18
(CH ) 2 3
R
19
N R 2 1
R
20
++
n
2X-
(VI)
wherein, R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from
16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or
interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 is chosen from hydrogen
and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and an
( R 1 6 a ) ( R 1 7 a ) ( R 1 8 a ) N - ( C H 2 ) 3 group, R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and
R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen
and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and X- is an
anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates
and methyl sulfates.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available
from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available
from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester
function, such as those of formula (VII)
O
R24 C (OCrH2r)y
(CsH2sO)z R25
+
N (CtH2tO)x R23
R
22
X - (IX)
(VII)
25
wherein,
7
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or
dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group R26 C
5 - groups R27, which are linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is chosen from:
O
- the group R28 C
10 - groups R29, which are linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7-C21 hydrocarbon-based
15 groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging
from 2 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from
20 0 to 10;
X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is
0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R 25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more
25 particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or
dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon-based group, it may be long
30 and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may
have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
8
When R25 is an R29 hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably
contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or
different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
5 C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are
equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
10 Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are
equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or
iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However,
use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an
15 anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any
other anion compatible with the ammonium containing an ester
function.
The anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methyl
sulfate.
20 Use is made more particularly in the composition according to
the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (VII) wherein:
R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group;
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
25 r, s and t are equal to 2;
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group R26 C
- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups;
- a hydrogen atom;
30 R25 is chosen from:
O
- the group R28 C
9
- a hydrogen atom;
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13-C17 hydrocarbon-based
groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or
5 unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of
formula (VII) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,
diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
10 monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,
triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and
monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or
methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups
preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more
15 particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When
the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be
identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct
esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an
20 alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are
optionally oxyalkylenated, with C 10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of
C10-C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification
of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by
quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably
25 methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) sulfate,
methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol
chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names
Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company
30 Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the
company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for
example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and
triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
10
Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at
least one ester function that are described in patents US -A-4 874 554
and US-A-4 137 180.
Use may be made of
5 behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, provided by Kao
under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester
function contain two ester functions.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one
10 ester function, which may be used, it is preferred to use
dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.
Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from quaternary
ammonium salts of general formula (IV) and mixtures thereof.
Better still, the cationic surfactants are chosen from
15 behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
The amount of cationic surfactants in the composition of the
present invention, advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight,
more preferentially from 0.01 to 5% by weight, and even more
preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
20 composition.
Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
The composition according to the present invention further
comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s).
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used
25 in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary
aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the
aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22
carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one
anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate,
30 phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of
(C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8-C20alkyl)amido(C3-
C8alkyl)betaines or (C8-C20alkyl)amido(C6-C8alkyl)sulfobetaines.
Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives,
optionally quaternized, that may be used, as defined above, mention
11
may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (II) and
(III) below:
Ra-C(O)-N(Z)CH2(CH2)mN+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2C(O)O-, M+, X- (II)
5
wherein,
- Ra represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl,
nonyl or undecyl group;
10 - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion
derived from an organic amine; and
15 - X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably
chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1-C4)alkyl
sulphates, (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular
methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate;
- m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
20 - Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl
group.
Or alternatively M+ and X- are absent;
Ra’-C(O)-N(Z)-CH2-(CH2)m’-N(B)(B') (III)
25
wherein
- B represents the group -CH2-CH2-O-X';
- B' represents the group -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-C(O)OZ’, -CH2-CH2-
30 C(O)OH, -CH2-CH2-C(O)OZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ’, -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H
or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z’;
12
- Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion
derived from an organic amine;
- Ra’ represents a C6-C30 alkyl or C6-C30 alkenyl group of an acid
5 Ra’-COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed
linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 alkyl group and its iso
form, or an unsaturated C 17 group;
- m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl
10 group.
The compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA
dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium
cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium
caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium
15 cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium
caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate,
lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and
hydroxyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.
Examples that may be mentioned include the
20 cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name
Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C
32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name
Chimexane HA.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (III’):
25
Ra’’-NH-CH(Y’’)-(CH2)n-C(O)NH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (III’)
wherein,
- Y’’ represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH2-CH(OH)-
30 SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z'';
- Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a C 1-C4 alkyl or
hydroxyalkyl radical;
13
- Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion
derived from an organic amine;
- Ra" represents a C6-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a''-
5 C(O)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed
linseed oil; and
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging
from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds of formula (III’), mention may be made
10 of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name
sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company
Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactants, it is preferred to use (C 8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as
15 cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as
cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactant(s) are chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8
alkyl)betaines, and even more cocoylamidopropylbetaine.
20 The amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s)
advantageously ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more
preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably
from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
25 Silicones
The composition according to the present invention further
comprises one or more silicones. Such silicones can be chosen in
particular from non-amino silicones, amino silicones and mixtures
thereof.
30 In the present invention, the term “silicone” is intended to
denote, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any
organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or
crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by
polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized
14
silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in
which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane
bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals
being directly linked via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The
5 hydrocarbon-based radicals that are the most common are alkyl
radicals, especially C 1-C10 alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl,
fluoroalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is C 1-C10, and aryl
radicals and in particular phenyl.
According to the present invention, the term “non-amino
10 silicone” denotes any silicone not containing at least one primary,
secondary or tertiary amine, or a quaternary ammonium group.
The non-amino silicones, which can be used in the composition
according to the invention, are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes that
may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
15 Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter
Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
The silicones may be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly
chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C,
20 and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to
5 silicon atoms.
These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold
especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by the company
25 Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone
7158 by the company Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by the
company Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
30 dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone
FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure:
15
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with
organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of
5 octamethyl-cyclotetrasiloxane and tetrakis(trimethylsilyl)-
pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
and oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)
neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and
10 having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-6 m2/s at 25°C. An
example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name
SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this
category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and
Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone
15 Fluids for Cosmetics.
When the silicones are non-volatile, use is preferably made of
polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone
gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with
organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.
20 These silicones are more particularly chosen from
polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups
(Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from
5×10-6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C and preferably 1×10-5 to 1 m2/s. The
25 viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according
to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a
non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
16
- the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil
oils sold by the company Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500
000,
- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia,
5 - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning,
such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 cSt,
- the Viscasil oils from the company General Electric and
certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company General
Electric.
10 Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing
dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA
name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing
a,ro-silanol groups.
15 In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be
made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801
by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-C20)alkylsiloxanes.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear
and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and
20 polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1×10-5 to
5×10-2m²/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be
mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- Silbione oils of the 70 641 series from the company Rhodia,
25 - the oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 series from the
company Rhodia,
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from the
company Dow Corning,
- silicones of the PK series from the company Bayer, such as
30 the product PK20,
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from the company
Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000,
- certain oils of the SF series from the company General
Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
17
The silicone gums that may be present in the composition
according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes
having high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and
1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be
5 chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils,
polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins,
polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and
tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made more particularly of the following
10 products:
- polydimethylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane gums,
- polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane gums,
15 - polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums.
Products that may be used more particularly are the following
mixtures:
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at
the end of the chain (known as dimethiconol according to the
20 nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic
polydimethylsiloxane (known as cyclomethicone according to the
nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 1401
sold by the company Dow Corning,
- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a
25 cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the
company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum
corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular
weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid
corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
30 - mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more
particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF
1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a
mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and
18
of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5×10- 6 m²/s. This product
preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the
composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane
5 systems containing the following units: R2SiO2/2, R3SiO1/2, RSiO3/2
and SiO4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to
16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, the ones
that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1-C4
alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group.
10 Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold
under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names
Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric,
which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type
15 resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and
X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The organomodified silicones that may be present in the
composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above
and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups
20 attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of
polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally
comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as
25 dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the
name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the
company Union Carbide, and the (C 12)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by
the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200,
- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names
30 GP 72 A and GP 71 from the company Genesee,
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name
Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434
and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt,
19
- hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes
containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent
application FR 2 589 476,
- acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes
5 described in patent US-A-4 957 732,
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, for instance in the
products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company Chisso
Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in
the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl
10 sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulphate such as the products sold by
the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255.
According to the invention, silicones comprising a
polysiloxane portion and a non-silicone organic chain portion, one of
the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the
15 other being grafted onto the said main chain, can also be used. These
polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP -A-
412,704, ep-a-412,707, ep-a-640,105 and WO95/00578, ep-a-582,152
and WO93/23009 and U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and
4,972,037, the disclosures of which are specifically incorporated by
20 reference herein. These polymers are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
Such polymers are, for example, copolymers, which may be
obtained by radical polymerization from a monomer mixture
comprising:
a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;
25 b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; 5 to 40% by weight of
silicone macromer of formula:
wherein,
V is a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being
calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
30 Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular,
polydimethylsiloxane (PDMSs) onto which are grafted, via a
connecting chain of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the
poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polyalkyl(methyl)acrylate type
and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) on which are grafted, via a
20
connecting chain of thiopropylene type, polymer units of the
polyisobutyl(meth)acrylate type.
Preferably, the non amino silicones are chosen from
polyalkylsiloxanes, and more preferentially from
5 polydimethylsiloxanes.
The non-amino silicones, which are preferably used in the
present invention have a viscosity equals to 60 000 cst at 25°C and
shear rate 1s- 1.
The viscosity may be measured at 25°C with viscosimeters or
10 rheometers preferably with cone-plan geometry.
The silicones used in the composition of the invention may
also be chosen from amino silicones.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “amino
silicone” means any silicone comprising at least one primary,
15 secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.
The amino silicones that may be used in the cosmetic
composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
(a) the compounds corresponding to formula (XVIII) below:
20 (R1)a(T)3-aSi[OSi(T)2]n[OSi(T)b(R1)2-b]mOSi(T)3-a(R1)a (XVIII)
wherein,
- T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C1-C8 alkyl
group, and preferably methyl, or a C1-C8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
25 - a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0,
- b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially
from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n
to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149,
30 and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1
to 10, and
- R1 is a monovalent group of formula -CqH2q L in which q is a number
from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen
from the following groups:
21
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N(R2)2;
-N(R2)2,
-N+(R2)3 Q-,
-N+(R2) (H)2 Q-,
5 -N+(R2)2HQ-,
-N(R2)-CH2-CH2-N+(R2)(H)2 Q-,
wherein, R2 may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a
saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C1-C20
alkyl group, and Q- represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride,
10 chloride, bromide or iodide.
In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the
definition of formula (XVIII) are chosen from the compounds
corresponding to formula (XIX) below:
15
CH3
R Si
CH3
O
CH3
Si
CH
n
R'
O Si
A
NH
I
(CH2)2
CH3
O Si R"
CH3
m
NH 2 (XIX)
wherein, R, R’ and R”, which may be identical or different, denote a
C1-C4 alkyl group, preferably CH3; a C1-C4 alkoxy group, preferably
methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched, C 3-C8 and
20 preferably C3-C6 alkylene group; m and n are integers dependent on
the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
According to a first possibility, R, R’ and R”, which may be
identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A
represents a C3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight-
25 average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000
22
approximately. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA
dictionary as “amodimethicones”.
According to a second possibility, R, R’ and R”, which may be
identical or different, each represent a C 1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl
5 group, at least one of the groups R or R” is an alkoxy group and A
represents a C3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is
preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of
the compound is between 2000 and 106 . More particularly, n is
10 between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m
being between 1 and 1000.
In this category of compounds, mention may be made, inter
alia, of the product Belsil® ADM 652 sold by the company Wacker.
According to a third possibility, R and R”, which are different,
15 each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the
groups R or R” being an alkoxy group, R’ representing a methyl group
and A representing a C 3 alkylene group. The hydroxy/alkoxy mole
ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal
to 1/0.95. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight-average
20 molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200 000. More
particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the
sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
More particularly, mention may be made of the product Fluid
WR® 1300 sold by the company Wacker.
25 Note that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined
by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene
standard; μ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/minute;
200 μl of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are
injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV -metry).
30 A product corresponding to the definition of formula (XIX) is
in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary as
Trimethylsilyl Amodimethicone, corresponding to formula (XX)
below:
23
5
10
15
(CH3)3 SiO
CH3
SiO
CH3
n
CH3
SiO
CH2
CHCH3
CH2
NH
(CH2)2
NH2
Si(CH ) 3 3
m
(XX)
wherein, n and m have the meanings given above in accordance with
formula (XVIII).
Such compounds are described,
95238. A compound of formula (XX) is
name Q2-8220 by the company OSI.
(b) the compounds corresponding to formula (XXI) below:
for example, in patent EP
sold, for example, under the
R4 CH
R3
R3 Si
R3
2
O Si
R3
O
CHOH
R3
Si
R3
CH2 N+ (R 3 )3 QO
R3
Si R3
R3
(XXI)
wherein,
- R3 represents a C1-C18 monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, and in
particular a C1-C18 alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl group, for example methyl,
- R4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a C1-
C18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1-C18, and for example C1-C8,
alkylenoxy group,
- Q- is a halide ion, in particular chloride;
r s
24
- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular
from 2 to 8, and
- s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular
from 20 to 50.
5 Such compounds are described more particularly in patent US -
4 185 087.
A compound falling within this class is the product sold by the
company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
(c) quaternary ammonium silicones especially of formula
10 (XXII):
R7 OH
+
R 8 - N - CH2-CH-CH- R 6 ^ Si - O
R 7
R7
R7
2X -
R7 R7
Si R6 CH2 CHOH CH2 N+ R8
R7 R7
r (XXII)
wherein,
15 - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent
hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in
particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group or a ring
comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl,
- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially a C1-
20 C18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1-C18, and for example C1-C8,
alkylenoxy group linked to the Si via an SiC bond,
- R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom,
a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 18 carbon
atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C18 alkenyl group
25 or a group -R6-NHCOR7;
- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an
organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); and
- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular
from 5 to 100.
30 These silicones are described, for example, in patent
application EP-A-0 530 974.
25
d) the amino silicones of formula (XXIII) below:
Si
(CnH2n)
NH
(CmH2m)
NH2
R1
O^Si — O
R2
R3
Si R5
R4
(XIII)
3
(XXIII)
5 wherein,
- R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-
C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group,
- R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
10 - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
When these compounds are used, one particularly advantageous
embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic
surfactants.
15 By way of example, use may be made of the product sold under
the name Cationic Emulsion DC939 by the company Dow Corning, a
cationic surfactant, namely trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a
nonionic surfactant of formula C13H27-(OC2H4)12-OH, known under the
CTFA name Trideceth-12.
20 Another commercial product that may be used according to the
invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q2 7224 by
the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, trimethylsilyl
amodimethicone of formula (XX) described above, a nonionic
surfactant of formula C8H17-C6H4-(OCH2CH2)40-OH, known under the
25 CTFA name Octoxynol-40, a second nonionic surfactant of formula
C12H25-(OCH2-CH2)6-OH, known under the CTFA name Isolaureth-6,
and propylene glycol.
x
26
The silicones of the invention may also be silicones grafted
with anionic groups, such as the compounds VS 80 or VS 70 sold by
the company 3M.
Preferentially, the amino silicones used in the present
5 invention are the products sold under the names DC 8194, DC 8299,
DC 1689, DC 5-7113, DC 8500, DC 8566, DC8170 and DC 8401 by the
company Dow Corning.
According to the invention, the silicones can be used in the
form of emulsions.
10 Preferably, the silicones are used in the form of emulsions
having an average particle size ranging from 50 nm to 10 μm, more
preferably from 100 nm to 2μm, and even more preferably from 100 to
500 nm. Indeed, silicone deposition remains high, irrespective to the
molecular weight, when the average particle size is preferably ranging
15 from 100 nm to 2 μm.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the
composition contains one or more non-amino silicone and one or more
amino silicone, preferably one or more polyalkylsiloxane and one or
more amodimethicone, even more preferably one or more
20 polydimethylsiloxane and one or more amodimethicone.
In this embodiment, the non-amino silicone and the amino
silicone are both preferably present in the composition in the form of
emulsions as described above. In a particularly preferred embodiment,
the non-amino silicone and the amino silicone are present as one
25 emulsion comprising both types of silicones. Preferably, the emulsion
has an average particle size of from 100 nm to 2000 nm, more
preferably from 100 nm to 500 nm, more preferably form 150 nm to
350 nm. The average particle size is expressed in volume (D50 average
particle size).
30 The total amount of silicone(s) advantageously ranges from 0.5
to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1 to 10% by weight, and
even more preferably from 1.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
27
Cationic polymers
The composition of the invention further comprises one or
more cationic polymers.
The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer containing
5 cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups,
which are preferably non-siliceous.
The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the
present invention may be chosen from any of those already known per
se for styling the hair, namely, especially, those described in patent
10 application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2
270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
The preferred cationic polymers that may be used in the
composition according to the invention are chosen from those
containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or
15 quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer
chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
The cationic polymers preferably have a weight-average
molecular mass of greater than 105, preferably greater than 106 and
more preferably of between 106 and 108.
20 Among the cationic polymers that may be used in accordance
with the invention, mention may be made more particularly of
polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary
ammonium type.
The polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and
25 polyquaternary ammonium type that may be used in the composition
according to the present invention are especially those described in
French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
Among these polymers, mention may be made especially of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or
30 methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units
of formulae (VIII), (IX), (X) and (XI) below:
28
CH2
O
R5
C
=O
A
N
R3 R4
CH2
O
R3
R5
C =1
NH
A
N
' R4
CH
R5
C
O
O
A
X
(VIII)
R6 N+ R8
R
CH2
R5
C
O
NH
A
X
(X)
+
R6 N R8
R7
(IX)
(XI)
5 wherein,
- R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
and preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
- R5, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or
10 a CH3 group,
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a lin ear or
branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon
atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
- R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent an
15 alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group,
and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
and
29
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid,
preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide, and better still a chloride
or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more
5 units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family
of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides
and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower (C 1-
C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams
such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
10 Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may
be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as
the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
15 - copolymers of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, described, for
example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name
Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba-Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of
20 methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the
name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl
acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under
the name Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example,
25 Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as
Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail
in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone
terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713
30 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers
sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,
30
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide
copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100
by the company ISP, and
- crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-
5 C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by
homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized
with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride,
the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an
10 olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular
methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a
crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion
containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil. This
15 dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company
Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI
name Polyquaternium-37), for example the polymer sold under the
name Cosmedia Ultragel 300 by the company Cognis; or as a
20 dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester; these dispersions are sold
under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company
Ciba.
(2) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent
alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched
25 chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or
with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or
quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are
especially described in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
(3) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by
30 polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine. These
polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a
diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bisunsaturated
derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine,
a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer
31
resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is
reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine,
a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a
bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in
5 proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the
polyaminoamide. These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they
comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be
quaternized. Such polymers are especially described in French patents
2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
10 (4) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the
condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids
followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be
made, for example, of adipic
acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which
15 the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably
denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are especially
described in French patent 1 583 363.
Among these derivatives, mention may be made more
particularly of the adipic
20 acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold
under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(5) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene
polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one
secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from
25 diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having f rom
3 to 8 carbon atoms. The mole ratio between the polyalkylene
polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the
polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin
in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine
30 group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such
polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961
347.
Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name
Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the
32
5
name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of
the adipic acid/epoxypropyl-diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of
dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers
comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to
formula (XII) or (XIII):
(CH2)t CR12
CH2
R 10
(CH2)k
C(R12) CH
CH2
N
Y-
R
11 (XII)
10
(CH2)t CR12
CH2
(CH2)k
N
I
R 10
C(R12) CH2
CH
(XIII)
wherein, k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R12
denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R 10 and R11,
independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1
15 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group
preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C 1-C4) amidoalkyl
group, or R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to
which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or
morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate,
20 citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These
polymers are in particular described in French patent 2 080 759 and in
its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.
33
R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote an
alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made
more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
5 homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco
and its homologues of low weight-average molecular weights, and the
copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide
sold under the name Merquat 550.
(7) The quaternary diammonium polymer in particular
10 containing repeating units corresponding to the formula (XIV):
R R
13 15
N+ A1 N+ B
B
1 1
R
14 16
R XR X
(XIV)
wherein,
15 - R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different,
represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1
to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or
alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute,
with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles
20 optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or
alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6
alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a
group COOR17D or CONHR17D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a
quaternary ammonium group,
25 - A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20
carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or
unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main
chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur
atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl,
30 quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
34
A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which
they are attached, a piperazine ring.
In addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a
5 group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-,
n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a
linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding
10 to one of the following formulae:
-(CH2-CH2-O)x -CH2-CH2-,
-[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-,
in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a
defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to
15 4 representing an average degree of polymerization,
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine
derivative,
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-,
where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or
20 else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-,
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
These polymers have a number-average molecular mass
generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
25 Polymers of this type are especially described in French patents
2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US
patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462,
2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904,
4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.
30 Use may more particularly be made of polymers that are formed
from repeating units corresponding to formula (XV):
35
15
R18 R 20
N+ (CH2)r N+ (CH2)
s
R19 X R 2 1 X
(XV)
wherein, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different,
denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon
5 atoms approximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20
approximately, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic
acid.
A compound of formula (XV) that is particularly preferred is
that for which R18, R19, R20 and R21 represent a methyl radical and r =
10 3, s = 6 and X = Cl, called hexadimethrine chloride in INCI
nomenclature (CTFA).
(8) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers formed especially from
units of formula (XVI):
R R
22 24
+
+ N (CH2)t NH CO (CH2)u CO NH (CH2)v N+ A
R23 X RX
25 (XVI)
wherein,
- R22, R23, R24 and R25, which may be identical or different,
represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl,
20 β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH group,
where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the
proviso that R22, R23, R24 and R25 do not simultaneously represent a
hydrogen atom,
- t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1
25 and 6,
- v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide, and
- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-OCH2-
CH2-.
36
Such compounds are especially described in patent application
EP-A-122 324.
Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the
products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol®
5 175, sold by the company Miranol.
(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and/or of
vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names
Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 and Luviquat Excellence by the
company BASF.
10 (10) Cationic polysaccharides, preferably cationic celluloses
and galactomannan gums.
Among cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more
particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose
15 derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium
monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups are described in French patent 1 492 597. These
polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary
20 ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an
epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
The cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives
grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are
described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl
25 celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl
celluloses grafted especially with a
methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium,
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or
dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
30 A cationic cellulose copolymer that may especially be
mentioned is Polyquaternium-4, which is a copolymer of
hydroxyethylcellulose and of diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
Mention may also be made of associative celluloses such as
alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses quaternized with C 8-C30 fatty chains, such
37
as the product Quatrisoft LM 200®, sold by the company
Amerchol/Dow Chemical (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and the
products Crodacel QM® (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose
cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) (INCI name PG-
5 Hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS®
(C18 alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium
chloride) sold by the company Croda.
Mention may also be made of other fatty-chain
hydroxyethylcellulose derivatives such as the commercial products
10 Softcat Polymer SL® such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the
company Amerchol/Dow chemical of INCI name Polyquaternium-67.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more
particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar
gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums
15 modified with a salt such as 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium
chloride are used, for example.
(11) Cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates,
polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers
containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of
20 polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and
chitin derivatives.
The cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in particular,
chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary ammonium
groups at the end of the chain, or grafted thereon. Their molecular
25 mass may vary, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in particular
from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention
may be made especially of:
- collagen hydrolysates bearing triethylammonium groups, such
as the products sold under the name Quat-Pro E by the company
30 Maybrook and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Triethonium
Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate,
- collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride
and trimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, which are sold under
38
the name Quat-Pro S by the company Maybrook and are referred to in
the CTFA dictionary as Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen,
- animal protein hydrolysates bearing
trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the
5 name Crotein BTA by the company Croda and referred to in the CTFA
dictionary as Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein,
- protein hydrolysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on
the polypeptide chain, the said ammonium groups comprising at least
one alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
10 Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, inter
alia, of:
- Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
comprise a C12 alkyl group,
- Croquat M, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
15 comprise C10-C18 alkyl groups,
- Croquat S, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
comprise a C18 alkyl group,
- Crotein Q, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
comprise at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
20 These various products are sold by the company Croda.
Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example,
those corresponding to the formula (XVII):
CH3
R26 N+ R27 N H A X
CH3
25
(XVII)
wherein, X- is an anion of an organic or mineral acid, A denotes a
protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R26
denotes a lipophilic group comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, R 27
represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may
30 be made, for example, of the products sold by the company Inolex,
39
under the name Lexein QX 3000, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as
Cocotrimonium Collagen Hydrolysate.
Mention may also be made of quaternized plant proteins such
as wheat, corn or soybean proteins, for instance quaternized wheat
5 proteins. Mention may be made of those sold by the company Croda
under the names Hydrotriticum WQ or QM, referred to in the CTFA
dictionary as Cocodimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, Hydrotriticum
QL, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Laurdimonium hydrolysed
wheat protein, or else Hydrotriticum QS, referred to in the CTFA
10 dictionary as Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.
(12) Polyamines such as Polyquart R H sold by Cognis,
referred to under the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine
in the CTFA dictionary.
(13) Polymers comprising in their structure:
15 (a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
CH2CHNH2 (A)
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B)
below:
20 CH2CHNHCOH (B)
In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular
from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units
derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived
25 from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers
comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units
corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units
corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% t o
30 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to
90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial
hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide.
40
This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic
medium.
The weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer,
measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol,
5 preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from
100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from
2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly
from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
10 The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally
units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by
the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the
products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin
1095, Lupamin 9030 and Lupamin 9010.
15 Preferably, the composition of the invention contains one or
more cationic polymer belonging to family (10) above, and in
particular one or more cationic galactomannan gum such as guar gums
containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
The amount of cationic polymer(s) advantageously ranges from
20 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight,
and most preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, with regard to the total
weight of the composition.
Fatty alcohols
The composition, according to the present invention, further
25 comprises one or more fatty alcohols.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty
alcohol” means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
alcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and which is not
oxyalkylenated.
30 Preferably, the fatty alcohols are solid at room temperature
(25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa). The fatty alcohols
are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formula (I)
R-OH (I)
41
wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
radical containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon
atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and better still
5 from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
R preferably denotes a linear or branched C8-C30, more
preferentially C16-C22 alkyl or a linear or branched C8-C30, more
preferentially C16-C22 alkenyl group, and better still linear. R may be
substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
10 Examples of fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include cetyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl
alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol,
and mixtures thereof.
The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols,
15 which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in th e
form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
Fatty alcohol mixtures that may be mentioned include
cetylstearyl (or cetearyl) alcohol.
Among all the fatty alcohols that may be used according to the
20 invention, use is preferably made of one or more fatty alcohols chosen
from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as
cetearyl alcohol.
The amount of fatty alcohols, in the composition of the present
invention, advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight,
25 preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferentially from
0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Clays:
The composition according to the invention comprises at least
one clay.
30 Clays are products which are already well known per se
andwhich are described, for example, in the publication “Minéralogie
des argiles” [Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillère, S. Hénin and M.
Rautureau, 2nd Edit io n 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is
included herein by way of reference.
42
Mention may be made, among clays, as examples, of clays of
the family of the smectites, such as laponite and montmorillonite, of
the family of the kaolinites, such as kaolinite, dickite or nacrite,
optionally modified clays of the family of halloysite, donbassite,
5 antigorite, berthierine or pyrophyllite, montmorillonites, beidellite,
vermiculites, talc, stevensite, hectorites, bentonites, saponites,
chlorites, sepiolite and illite.
The clay or clays present in the composition of the invention
can be natural or synthetic. Natural clay is a sedimen tary rock in large
10 part composed of specific minerals, silicates, generally, of aluminum.
Kaolin is thus natural clay comprising kaolinite.
Clays can also be chemically modified by various compounds,
such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (for example
carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations.
15 Use is preferably made, in the context of the present invention,
of clays which are cosmetically compatible with and acceptable to the
hair, skin and/or scalp.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention,
the clays employed are chosen from kaolinites, montmorillonites,
20 saponites, laponites, bentonites, and in particular hectorites, and
illites. Use will more particularly be made of mixtures o f clays, and
natural clays.
Mention may be made, as natural clay, of green clays, in
particular rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known under the
25 name of fuller's earth, or such as bentonites, or also white clays rich in
kaolinite.
Mention may in particular be made, as bentonites, of those sold
under the names "Bentone 38 VCG", "Bentone Gel CAO V", "Bentone
27 V" and "Bentone Gel MIO V" by Elementis. Montmorillonites and
30 smect ites are hydrated aluminum and/or magnesium silicates. Menti n
may be made, as example, of the montmorillonite sold under the name
Gel White H by Rockwood Addi ives and of the purified smectite sold
under the name Veegum Granules by Vanderbilt. Mention may also be
made of the montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by
43
Kunimine and the sepiolite Pangel S9 sold by Tolsa.
Mention may be made, as examples of kaolinites, of the kaolins
sold under the names Coslin C 100 by BASF Personal Care Ingredients
or Kaolin Supreme by Imerys.
5 Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising
aluminum silicate. The crystal structure of talc consists of repeated
layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica. Mention may
be made, as examples, of micronized magnesium silicate with a particle
size of 5 microns, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc,
10 or the talcs sold under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by
Nippon Talc, J 68 BC by US Cosmetics (Miyoshi), Luzenac 00 and
Luzenac Pharma M by Luzenac and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.
Mention may be made, as saponite, which belongs to the family
of the montmorillnites, of synthetic saponite, in particular that sold by
15 Kunimine under the Sumecton® name.
Mention may be made, as synthetic laponite, of Laponite XLG,
sold by Rockwood.
Preferably, the clay used in the composition of the present
invention is chosen from kaolinites and even better kaolin
20 The kaolin is advantageously present under the form of solid
particles.
The composition advantageously comprises from 0.5 to 10% by
weight of clay(s), preferably kaolinite, even better kaolin, more
preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, with regard to the total weight of
25 the composition.
Liquid fatty substances
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
may further comprise one or more fatty substances that are liquid at
room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa),
30 different from the fatty alcohols and the silicones described above.
The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is
insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric
pressure (1.013*105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less
than 1% and even more preferentially of less than 0.1%). They have in
44
their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least
6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble
in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure
conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon
5 tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid
petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
In addition, the liquid fatty substances of the present invention
are nonpolyoxyethylenated and nonpolyglycerolated.
The term "oil" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room
10 temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa).
The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil not containing any
silicon atoms (Si).
More particularly, the liquid fatty substances can be chosen
from C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons containing more
15 than 16 carbon atoms, oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or
synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol
esters other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
It is recalled that the fatty esters and acids more particularly
have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
20 hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 and better still from 8 to
30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with
one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are
unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three conjugated or
non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
25 As regards the C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, they are more
particularly linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably
alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane,
cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as
isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
30 The linear or branched liquid hydrocarbons of mineral or
synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably
chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly,
mineral oil, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as
Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
45
By way of hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, mention
may be made of perhydrosqualene.
The triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably
chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30
5 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or
alternatively, more particularly from those present in plant oils, for
instance coconut oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil,
grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia
oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil or
10 synthetic caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by
the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names
Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and
mixtures thereof.
Fluoro oils that may be mentioned include
15 perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane,
sold under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3 by the company
BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane;
perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and
tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060®
20 by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name
Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and
nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as
4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052®
by the company 3M.
25 As regards the liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters
advantageously other than the triglycerides mentioned above and non -
silicone waxes, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated
or unsaturated, linear C 1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic monoacids
or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C 1-C26 or branched
30 C3-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon
number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more
advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl
behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12-
46
C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate;
oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl
octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl
laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl
5 isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myr istyl
stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate;
octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate;
ethyl and isopropyl palmitates; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl
palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-
10 octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl
stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl
laurate, and mixtures thereof.
Still within the context of this variant, esters of C 4-C22
dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1-C22 alcohols and esters of
15 mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or
pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate;
diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl
adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;
20 octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonat e;
pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;
propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl
erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate;
25 glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrat e; trioleyl citrate;
propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates,
and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters
30 and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled
that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based
compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without
aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon
47
atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or
polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include
sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose,
5 fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives
thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for
instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from
the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars
10 described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are
unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three conjugated or
non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from
15 mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates,
myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates,
caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular,
oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.
20 More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and
in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleopalmitate, -
linoleate, -linolenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, of glucose or of
methylglucose.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under
25 the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a
methylglucose dioleate.
Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty
acid that may also be mentioned include:
- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90,
30 F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose
palmitate/stearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and
triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester,
from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45%
monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39%
48
monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose
monolaurate;
- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for
example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate
5 formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-triester-polyester;
- the sucrose mono-dipalmitate/stearate sold by the company
Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.
Preferably, the fatty substances, liquid at room temperature
(25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa), different from the
10 fatty alcohols and the silicones, are chosen from triglycerides of plant
origin.
When they are present, the amount of the liquid fatty
substances, different from the fatty alcohols and silicones,
advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and more
15 preferentially from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition.
Additional surfactants
The composition according to the present invention, may
further comprise one or more additional surfactants different from the
20 cationic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants described above, and
in particular surfactants chosen from anionic and non ionic
surfactants, and preferably from non ionic surfactants.
The nonionic surfactants that may be present in the
composition of the present invention are especially described, for
25 example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by
Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are
especially chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty α-diols, fatty (C1-
C20)alkylphenols and fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated,
propoxylated or glycerolated and containing at least one fatty chain
30 comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of
ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially
from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging
especially from 1 to 30.
49
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide
and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides
preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated
fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups, and in
5 particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan
containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of
sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C 6-
C24)alkylpolyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-
C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10-
10 C14)alkylamine oxides or N-(C10-C14)acylaminopropylmorpholine
oxides.
The non ionic surfactants may be present in an amount ranging
from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, with
regard to the total weight of the composition.
15 According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the
invention contains less than 5% by weight of anionic surfactants,
preferably less than 1% by weight, and most preferably less than 0.5%
by weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition.
Thickening agents:
20 The composition according to the invention may further contain
additional thickening agents, different from clays, preferably chosen
from polymeric thickening agents.
Particularly preferred thickening agent are polymers of natural
origin, such as those belonging to the families of celluloses and
25 starches.
Cosmetically acceptable medium
The composition according to the present invention,
advantageously comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
The term “cosmetically acceptable medium” means a medium
30 that is compatible with human keratin fibres, such as the hair.
The cosmetically acceptable medium can be formed from water
or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable
solvents chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol and
isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol,
50
propylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether,
diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and mixtures
thereof.
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
5 advantageously comprises water in an amount preferably ranging from
30 to 98% by weight, more preferentially from 50 to 95% by weigh,
and better still from 60 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition.
Additives
10 The cosmetic composition according to the present invention
may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the
compounds of the invention.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention,
mention may be made of solid fatty substances different from fatty
15 alcohols such as waxes, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or
mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents
for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins
and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic
pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents,
20 opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances
and preserving agents.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to
select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the
advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition
25 according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely
affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for
each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
30 The present invention also relates to a process for washing
keratin fibres, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres an
effective amount of a composition as described above, and after an
optional leave-on time, removing it by rinsing.
51
The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may
range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to
10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.
5 Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a
composition as described above for washing keratin fibres.
In the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” denotes
human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention
10 without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLE
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, all
15 amounts are given as mass percentages of active material relative to
the total weight of the composition (% AM = % active matter).
The following composition was prepared from the ingredients
indicated in the table below.
20
52
Ingredients
HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH
PHOSPHATE
HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE
BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS
(RAPESEED) SEED OIL
CETYL ALCOHOL
BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE
COCAMIDE MEA
GLYCERIN
DIMETHICONE (and)
AMODIMETHICONE (and)
TRIDECETH-10 (and) PEG-100
STEARATE (and) STEARETH-6
(and) TRIDECETH-3
GUAR
HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM
CHLORIDE
PEG-45M
KAOLIN
WATER
Amounts (% wt AM)
1.75
0,3
1
2,5
0.395
1.15
1
0,5
5 %
(2% AM dimethicone 0,5%
AM amodimethicone)
0,15
0,01
2
Qsp 100
The above composition was used a shampoo and applied onto
5 wet hair.
53
This composition exhibited very good cleaning properties. The
foam formed by massaging the composition spread easily and
uniformly onto the wet hair.
The hair washed with this composition was perfectly clean, and
5 exhibited good conditioning properties. The hair was smooth, soft and
easy to disentangle without substantial breaking thereof.
54
CLAIMS
1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more cationic surfactants,
- one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
- one or more silicones,
- one or more cationic polymers,
- one or more fatty alcohols, and
- one or more clays.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the clays are
chosen from kaolinites, montmorillonites, saponites, laponites,
bentonites, hectorites and illites, preferably from kaolinites, and even
better kaolin.
3. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the cationic surfactants are chosen from:
- primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally
polyoxyalkylenated,
- quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV)
- i +
R 8 \ / R 10
N
/ Rg R^
X
(IV)
wherein,
Rg to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or
branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an
aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at
least one of the groups Rg to Rn comprises from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
X" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that
chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl
sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates;
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (V)
55
R 13
N N:
„CH2CH — N(R15)—CO— R12
Rx1, 4
c- C
X
(V)
wherein, R12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to
30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13
represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl
group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4
alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; X"
is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates,
lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl
and aryl groups each preferably comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms
and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms;
- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI)
R
I
17 R
I
19
R1R— N — (ChL), N-R M6 I
R 18
I
R
v21
20
_ n
++
2X
(VI)
wherein, Ri6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from
16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or
interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen
and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and an
( R l 6 a ) ( R l 7 a ) ( R l 8 a ) N - ( C H 2 ) 3 g r o u p , Rl6a, Rl7a, Rl8a, R l 8 , Rl9, R20 and
R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen
and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and X" is an
anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates
and methyl sulfates; and
56
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of
formula (VII)
Q (CsH2sO)z R25
R2 4-C-(OCrH2 r ) y N- (CtH2 tO)x-R23 X"
(VII)
wherein,
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or
dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R23 is chosen from:
R26 - the group C"
- groups R27, which are linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is chosen from:
- the group 28
- groups R29, which are linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based
groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging
from 2 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from
0 to 10;
X" is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is
0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
57
4. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the amount of cationic surfactants ranges from 0.05 to 10%> by
weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from
0.1 to 2%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from
secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally
quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain
containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives
containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate,
sulfonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and preferably
the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from from (Cs-
C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C3-
C8alkyl)betaines or (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C6-C8alkyl)sulfobetaines.
6. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s)
ranges from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1%> to 10%> by
weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein it contains one or more non-amino silicone and one or more
amino silicone, preferably one or more polyalkylsiloxane and one or
more amodimethicone, even more preferably one or more
polydimethylsiloxane and one or more amodimethicone.
8. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the
non-amino silicone and the amino silicone are both present in the
composition in the form of emulsions, and preferably the non-amino
silicone and the amino silicone are present as one emulsion comprising
both types of silicones.
9. Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims,
wherein the total amount of silicone(s) ranges from 0.5 to 15% by
weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5
to 5%> by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
58
10. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein the cationic polymers are chosen from:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or
methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units
of formulae (VIII), (IX), (X) and (XI) below:
R5
CH2-C- H
o
i
A
FL
N
R,
R=
—CH,
(VIII)
0=
R;
O
I
A
X
N—R
R7 (IX)
CH'2. -Co
H
NH
i
A
N
(X)
— CH~
NH
A
l + N—FL
X
(XI)
wherein,
R.3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
and preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
R5, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or
a CH3 group,
A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or
branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon
atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
59
R.6, R-7 and Rs, which may be identical or different, represent an
alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group,
and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
and
X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid,
preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide, and better still a chloride
or bromide.
(2) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent
alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched
chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or
with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or
quaternization products of these polymers.
(3) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by
polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine, these
polyaminoamides being optionallycrosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a
diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bisunsaturated
derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine,
a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer
resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is
reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine,
a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a
bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in
proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the
polyaminoamide.
(4) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the
condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids
followed by alkylation with difunctional agents.
(5) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene
polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one
secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from
diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from
3 to 8 carbon atoms.
(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of
dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers
60
comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to
formula (XII) or (XIII):
(CH2)r C(R12)—ChU
i2 Y"
(XII)
-(Chyk
(CH2 )— C R 1 2 ^ C(R12)—CH2-
CH, .ChL
N'
R 10 (XIII)
wherein, k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R12
denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; Rio and Rn,
independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1
to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group
preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl
group, or Rio and Rn may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to
which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or
morpholinyl; Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate,
citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
(7) The quaternary diammonium polymer in particular
containing repeating units corresponding to the formula (XIV):
61
^13 ^15
-N—A—N—Br
R X R *
^14 16 (XIV)
wherein,
R13, R14, Ris and Ri6, which may be identical or different,
represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1
to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or
alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6, together or separately, constitute,
with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles
optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or
alternatively R13, R14, R15 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched C1-C6
alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a
group COOR17D or CONHR17D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a
quaternary ammonium group,
Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20
carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or
unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main
chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur
atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl,
quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which
they are attached, a piperazine ring;
if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a group
(CH2)„-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-,
n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a
linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding
to one of the following formulae:
-(CH2-CH2-0)x -CH2-CH2-,
62
-[CH2-CH(CH3)-0]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-,
in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a
defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to
4 representing an average degree of polymerization,
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine
derivative,
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-,
where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or
else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-,
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
(8) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers formed especially from
units of formula (XVI):
R22 R24
— N+—(CH2) —NH—CO—(CH2 ) —CO—NH—(CH2)—N+—A
R9, X R X
25 (XVI)
wherein,
R22, R23, R24 and R25, which may be identical or different,
represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, P-hydroxyethyl,
P-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)POH group,
where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the
proviso that R22, R23, R24 and R25 do not simultaneously represent a
hydrogen atom,
t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1
and 6,
v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
X" denotes an anion such as a halide, and
A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-OCH2-
CH2-.
(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and/or of
vinylimidazole.
(10) Cationic polysaccharides, preferably cationic celluloses
and galactomannan gums.
63
(11) Cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates,
polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers
containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of
polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and
chitin derivatives.
(12) Polyamines.
(13) Polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
CH2CHNH2 (A)
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B)
below:
CH2CHNHCOH (B).
11. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein
it contains one or more cationic polymer belonging to family (10),
preferably one or more cationic galactomannan gums, and more
preferably one or more guar gums containing cationic
trialkylammonium groups.
12. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein the amount of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to
10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more
preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, with regard to the total weight of
the composition.
13. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein the fatty alcohols are chosen from the compounds of
formula (I)
R-OH (I)
wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
radical containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 3 0 carbon
atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and better still
from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
64
14. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein the fatty alcohols are solid at room temperature
(25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa).
15. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein
the fatty alcohols are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and
mixtures thereof.
16. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein the amount of fatty alcohols ranges from 0.05 to 15%
by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably
from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
17. Composition according to anyone of the preceding
claims, wherein the amount of clay(s), preferably kaolinite, even
better kaolin ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to
5% by weight, with regard to the total weight of the composition.
18. Process for washing keratin fibres, and in particular
human keratin fibres, wherein a composition according to any one of
the preceding claims is applied on said keratin fibres.
19. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1
to 17 for washing keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin
fibres.