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Cosmetic Composition Comprising A Polymer Comprising At Least One (Meth)acrylic Unit, Silicone And Carboxylic Acid

Abstract: The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a. one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s), b. one or more silicones, c. one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I): and d. optionally one or more cationic polymers different from the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units, with a weight ratio between the total amount of a. and d. and the amount of c., less than 1. The invention also relates a cosmetic process for washing and/or condition keratin fibres using said cosmetic composition.

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Patent Information

Application #
Filing Date
24 December 2019
Publication Number
26/2021
Publication Type
INA
Invention Field
BIOTECHNOLOGY
Status
Email
iprdel@lakshmisri.com
Parent Application

Applicants

L'OREAL
14, Rue Royale 75008 PARIS, FRANCE

Inventors

1. TULSYAN, Harshada
L'OREAL INDIA Pvt Ltd - Research & Innovation - 7 th Floor, Universal Majestic, Ghatkopar - Mankhurd Link Road, Chembur, Mumbai –Maharashtra 400071, India
2. JOSHI, Sarish
L'OREAL INDIA Pvt Ltd - Research & Innovation - 7 th Floor, Universal Majestic, Ghatkopar - Mankhurd Link Road, Chembur, Mumbai –Maharashtra 400071, India

Specification

FORM 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970
(39 of 1970)
&
THE PATENTS RULES, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See section 10, rule 13)
1. Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYMER
COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE (METH)ACRYLIC UNIT, SILICONE AND CARBOXYLIC ACID
2. Applicant(s)
NAME NATIONALITY ADDRESS
L'OREAL French 14, Rue Royale 75008 PARIS,
FRANCE
3. Preamble to the description
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it
is to be performed.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising at least one (meth)acrylic unit, one or more silicones and one or more carboxylic acids.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres using this composition.
Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin materials especially such as the hair and the skin. These compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a toiletry flannel makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair or the skin.
These compositions contain substantial contents of "detergent" surfactants, which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic compositions with good washing power, must especially give them good foaming power.
The surfactants that are useful for this purpose are generally of anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric type, and particularly of anionic type.
These compositions have generally a good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain fairly poor, owing in particular to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long run, lead to more or less pronounced damage to the hair fibre, this damage being associated in particular with the gradual removal of the lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of this fibre.
Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly those which are to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which has been damaged or made brittle, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or hair treatments such as permanent-waving, dyeing or

bleaching), it is now common to introduce additional cosmetic agents known as conditioners into these compositions. These conditioners are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which the hair fibres are subjected more or less repeatedly. They may, of course, also improve the cosmetic behaviour of natural hair.
The conditioners most commonly used to date in shampoos include cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives, which give washed, dry or wet hair an ease-of disentangling, softness and smoothness which are markedly better than that which can be obtained with corresponding cleaning compositions from which they are absent.
In particular, it is known to use a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer. However, the compositions containing them still have numerous disadvantages, such as leading to an insufficient deposit of silicones on hair and impacting therefore strongly on their cosmetic properties.
Thus, there is a real need to provide cosmetic compositions, such as compositions for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, that allow overcoming the drawbacks described above, i.e. which effectively remove dirt and excess sebum and enhance cosmetic properties of said fibres, such as softness, smoothness and disentangling. These cosmetic properties may also be long-lasting.
The composition should give satisfactory silicone deposit on the keratin fibres.
The Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising at least one (meth)acrylic unit, one or more silicones and one or more specific carboxylic acids as defined below with a particular weight ratio between the total amount of cationic and amphoteric polymers polymer(s) and the amount of specific carboxylic acid(s) , makes it possible to achieve the objectives outlined above.
Thus, the subject of the invention is especially a cosmetic composition comprising:
a. one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one
or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s),
b. one or more silicones,
c. one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I) as defined below, and

d. optionally one or more cationic polymers different from the cationic/amphoteric polymers (a) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units, with a weight ratio between the total amount of a. and d. and the amount of c., less than 1.
This cosmetic composition, when applied on keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, leads to an improvement of the condition and quality of hair, in terms of hair feel (e.g. smooth feel, soft feel, conditioned feel) and hair manageability (e.g., no or less frizz, styleability/shapeability, combing, detangling, desirable volume).
This cosmetic composition allows increasing the silicone deposition on hair when compared to a similar composition which does not contain the specific acids of the invention.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair using this composition.
Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of the
composition according to the invention for washing and/or
conditioning keratin fibres.
Other subject-matters, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.
In the text herein below, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
According to the invention, the cosmetic composition
comprising:
a. one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one
or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s),
b. one or more silicones,
c. one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I):


wherein :
• A is a monovalent group when n is 0, or multivalent when n is
equal to or greater than 1; it is a saturated or unsaturated,
cyclic or non cyclic, aromatic or non aromatic, hydrocarbon
group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally
interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, and/or substituted by
one or more hydroxy and/or amino groups; and
• n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10,
and
d. optionally one or more cationic polymers different from the cationic polymers (a) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units,
with a weight ratio between the total amount of a. and d. and the
amount of c., less than 1.
Cationic/amphoteric polymer(s) comprising at least one (meth)acrylic unit
The first essential component of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is one or more cationic/amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s). These polymers are non-silicone, i.e. they do not contain any silicon (Si) atom.
By “cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s)” or
“cationic/amphoteric polymer(s)”, it is understood one or more cationic polymers, one or more amphoteric polymers or the mixture of one or more cationic polymers, and of one or more amphoteric polymers.
By “acrylic or methacrylic units”, it is understood units
corresponding to acrylic or methacrylic acid monomers and/or their
salts, and/or their derivatives such as esters (for example
(meth)acrylates) or amides (for example (meth)acrylamide), optionally substituted.
The polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units may be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic and/or methacrylic monomers, and preferably from homo- or copolymers resulting from the (co)polymerization of one or more monomers including one or more monomers of structure (II):


in which,
- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl
radical,
denotes a hydroxyl radical, a radical or a linear or
branched alkoxy radical, said alkoxy radical being optionally
substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical or by a radical,
and which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen
atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical, optionally
substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical by a radical or by a sulfonic
group and
which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear
or branched alkyl radical;
and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a
halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate,
bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
Preferably, R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.
The polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, they are chosen from cationic polymers.
The cationic charge density of the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units may preferably be lower than or equal to 5 meq/g, more preferentially lower than or equal to 4 meq/g, and better still lower than or equal to 3 meq/g. This cationic charge density advantageously ranges from 0.5 to 5 meq/g, better still from 1 to 4 meq/g, and even more preferably from 1.5 to 3 meq/g.
The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups,

and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
The polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units that can be used in the present invention are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
)
in which:
- R1, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a
radical;
- R, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched
alkyl radical, preferably a linear alkyl radical, optionally
substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals;

which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear
or branched alkyl radical;
- R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
Preferably, the polymers comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic amides, and more preferentially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV).
More particularly the polymers comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units are chosen from copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) as defined previously, and more preferably comprising at least one unit of formula (III) in which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear alkyl group having 3 carbon atoms and R5, R6 and R7 represent a methyl.
The cationic polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or
methacrylic unit(s) may also contain one or more units derived from
comonomers that may be selected from the families of acrylamides,
methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and
methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyls,
acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters, preferably selected from the families of acrylamide and methacrylamides, and more preferentially from the family of acrylamides.
Among these copolymers, mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride and acrylamide, such as the product sold under the name Salcare® SC 60 by the company BASF, or sold under the name N-Hance SP 100 by the company Ashland,
- guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorure (and) acrylamidepropyl-trimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer sold under the name of N-Hance 4572 (ex Aqualon aqua 4572 conditioning polymer ) by the company Ashland,

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl ammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the names GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for instance GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755, or alternatively the products known as COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in FR 2 077 143 and FR 2 393 573,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP,
- preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C 1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being optionally followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked or non-crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxy ethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil may be used more particularly. Such a dispersion is sold under the name SALCARE® SC 92 by the company BASF. A crosslinked or non-crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl

ammonium chloride homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. Such dispersions are sold under the names SALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96 by the company BASF.
The polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units that can be used in the present invention can also be chosen from amphoteric polymers.
The term "amphoteric polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups, and comprising anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to anionic groups
Amphoteric polymers can be chosen more particularly from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of structure (VII) below:
)

in which:
- R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or radical; and
- R2 denotes a NR3R4 radical, wherein and which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched
alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, preferably R2 denotes an amino, a dimethylamino, a tert-butylamino, a dodecylamino or a radical.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (VII).
The unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (VII) in which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom and R2 is an amino

radical is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the
acrylamide monomer per se.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units of
structure (VIII) below:

in which:
- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or CH3 radical;
- which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched alkyl radical;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (VIII).
Among these units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of formula (VIII), the
ones that are preferred are those derived from the
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for
which R1 denotes a methyl radical, n is equal to 3, denote a methyl radical, and Y- denotes a chloride anion.
Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (IX):


in which:
- R1 denotes hydrogen atom or radical; and
- R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical or a radical, wherein and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical optionally substituted by a sulfonic group preferably R2 denotes a
radical.
The preferred units of formula (IX) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (IX) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom and R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
The acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
Preferably, the said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of only one unit of formula (IX).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
The content of units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
The content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:

- from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i),
- from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and
- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional
units, other than the units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
However, according to a preferred embodiment of the
invention, the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived
from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of
(meth)acrylic acid type.
As examples of amphoteric polymers that are particularly
preferred, mention may be made of acrylamide/
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid
terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA Dictionary (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) under the name Polyquaternium 53. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.
Another preferred type of amphoteric polymers is the polymer comprising a repetition of:
(i) one or more non ionic units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylate type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type.
The monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and the acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (monomers (ii) and (iii) respectively) are as described above.
The non ionic monomers (i) of (meth)acrylate type are preferably chosen from alky acrylates and methacrylates. A
preferred monomer is methyl acrylate.

As particularly preferred examples of such amphoteric
polymers, mention may be made of acrylic acid/
methylacrylamidopropyltriméthylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the name polyquaternium 47. Corresponding products are especially sold under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2001N by the company Nalco.
As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names polyquaternium 22 and polyquaternium 53 (acrylic acid/ methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride (MAPTAC)/acrylamide terpolymer). Examples of corresponding products are sold respectively under the names Merquat 280 and Merquat 2003PR by the company Nalco.
The polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units are preferably chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido ammonium halide/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamide-propyltrimonium chloride/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido( alkyl) ammonium halide /(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide/ methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido alkyl)tri alkyl) ammonium halide/
alkyl) (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers,
preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride /
alkyl) (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; more
preferably acrylic acid/ methylacrylamidopropyltrimethyl-
ammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylic acid/ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
copolymers,

- and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units are preferably chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido alkyl)tri alkyl) ammonium halide
/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamide-
propyltrimonium chloride/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, and
most preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide
copolymers.
The total amount of cationic/amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, more preferentially from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
Silicone(s)
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones. They may be solid or liquid, and volatile or non-volatile.
The silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
Silicones are especially described in detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from:
i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as
- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia.
- cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:


Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the
company Union Carbide.
- mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic
compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of
hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane; ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to at
25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27 -32 -Todd & Byers Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.
Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone
or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and especially
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes,
polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also
organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or
alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups.
The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in
particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes
functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or
branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.
Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally
comprising alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols and
especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC
1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the
company Union Carbide; or (C12)alkylmethicone copolyols and
especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2
5200;
- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, in particular
aminoalkyl groups; mention may be made of the products sold under
the names GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the company Genesee, or
under the names and DC929 or DC939 by the company Dow
Corning;
- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names
GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name
Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil
2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;
- hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;
- acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for
example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the
product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or else of the 2-
hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the
products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil®

- hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes
described in patent application EP 342 834; mention may be made, for
example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.
The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil®
oils sold by Rhodia, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning,
such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s;
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of
the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be
made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801
by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-
C20)dialkylsiloxanes.
Products that can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane
hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a
cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA),
such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear
and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from
Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow
Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PN1000 and PH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicones are hydroxyl-terminated silicones. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

- Xiameter PMX-1501 fluid from the company Dow Corning, which corresponds to a mixture of α,ω-dihydroxy polydimethylsiloxane and of cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane,
- Xiameter PMX-1503 fluid from the company Dow Corning, which corresponds to a mixture of α,ω-dihydroxy polydimethylsiloxane and of polydimethylsiloxane 5 mm2/s,
- Belsil GB 1020 from the company Wacker, which corresponds to a mixture of dimethicone and of dimethiconol, and
- Xiameter MEM-1785 emulsion from the company Dow Corning), which corresponds to an emulsion of dimethiconol and tea-dodecylbenzenesulfonate.
Mention could be made of dimethiconol emulsions, for example with anionic surfactants, preferably having a low particle size such as less than 500 nm, more preferentially less than 200 nm, and better still less than 100 nm.
More preferentially, the silicones are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (also known as dimethiconol), preferably in emulsion form, and more preferentially in microemulsion form having particle size preferably lower than or equal to 500 nm, more preferentially less than 200 nm, and better still less than 100 nm.
In another preferred embodiment, the silicone could be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicone; and/or from amino silicones.
Preferably, the polydimethylsiloxanes are non-volatile.
In yet another preferred embodiment, the silicone could be chosen from amino silicones.
The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C), as polystyrene equivalents. The columns used are µ styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 µl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry.
As amino silicone that may be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of:

a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500 000 approximately;
b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):

in which:
- G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, OH or alkyl group, for example methyl, or a alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a, which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;
- R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon -based radical, for example a alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched
group of formula r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6,
preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, especially a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. A first group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones known as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone",

corresponding to formula (C):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10. A second group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (D) below:

in which:
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000
and in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200;
it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in
particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for
m to denote a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and
more particularly from 1 to 5;
- and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals

0.3:1.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
A third group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (E) below:

in which:
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1,000,
in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; it
being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and especially
from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and for q to
denote a number from 1 to 1,000, especially from 1 to 10 and more
particularly from 1 to 5;
- which are different, represent a hydroxyl oralkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R1 or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly equals 1:0.95.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.
The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formula (D) or (E).
A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The numerical mean size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, especially as amino silicones of formula (E), use is made of microemulsions whose mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits inclusive). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker.
Another group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (F) below:

in which:
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and form to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example,

XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from Dow Corning.
Another group of amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) is represented by the silicones of formula (G) below:

in which:
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1,999 and especially from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning. c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):

in which:
- R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a

alkylene radical or a divalent for example alkylenoxy
radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;
- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
Such amino silicones are especially described in patent US 4 185 087.
d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (J):

in which:
- R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent
hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in
particular a alkyl radical, a alkenyl radical or a ring
comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a
alkylene radical or a divalent for examplealkylenoxy
radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
- R8, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a alkyl radical, a alkenyl radical or a radical
- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt, especially acetate;
- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in
particular from 5 to 100.
These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.
e) the amino silicones of formula (K):


in which:
which may be identical or different, denote a alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R5 denotes a alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g.
f) the multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of the type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block comprising at least one amine group.
The said silicones preferably consist of repeating units of the following general formulae:

or

in which:
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
- R, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a radical; preferentially R denotes a radical;
- R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched
divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally comprising one or
more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene

radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched
butylene radical, or a radical;
preferentially, R denotes
The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.
The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq./g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000 and more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
Mention may be made especially of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones.
In a most preferred embodiment, the composition could comprise polydimethylsiloxane and aminosilicone, preferably in emulsion form.
As an example, the cosmetic composition according to the invention could comprise an oil-in-water (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having D50 particle size of less than 350 nm and that comprises:
- a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone;
- a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value of from 10 to 16; and
- water.
In the oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the silicone mixture, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.

The silicone mixture comprises one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes, that are preferably of formula (X):

wherein:
- R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical
having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms, even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl,
and
- p is an integer of from 500 to 2,000, preferably of from 1,000
to 2,000.
The trialkylsilyl terminated (or end-blocked or α,ω-position) dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention have a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded) at 25°C, preferably a viscosity of from 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, more preferably a viscosity of from 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.
The trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention are preferably linear but may contain additionally to the units (D-units) in formula (X), units (T-units) and/or
units (Q-units), wherein R’, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R’, same or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably
alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and ally radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and the b-phenylethyl radical. Most preferred is the methyl radical.

Preferably, the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes are
trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or
dimethicones).
The silicone mixture comprises one or more amino silicones, that are preferably of formula (XI):
XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X wherein:
- R, same or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl ;
- X, same or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or a alkoxy group; preferably X is R, i.e. a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl ;
- A is an amino radical of the formula or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein
alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula or same or different, is a hydrogen atom or a
alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, alkylene radical, preferably a radical of the formula and x
is 0 or 1;
and
- m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1,000, preferably from 50
to 600.
Preferably, A is an amino radical of the formula or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, wherein
are hydrogen atoms,

Preferably, R, same or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and ally radical; cycloalkyl radicals,

such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and the b-phenylethyl radical. Most preferred is the methyl radical.
The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C, preferably of from 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.
The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably of from 3.5 to 8 mg.
The mole percent of amine functionality is preferably in the range of from about 0.3 to about 8%.
Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone mixture according to the invention include trialkylsilyl terminated amino silicone.
Most preferably, amino silicones are trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane, most preferably trimethylsilyl terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane - dimethylsiloxane copolymers.The amino radical A can be protonated partially or fully by adding acids to the amino silicone, wherein the salt forms of the amino radical are obtained. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of from 0.1 to 2.0 mol per 1 mol of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (XI).
The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in a quantity of from 70 to 90% by weight, preferably from 75 to 85% by weight and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a quantity of from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture.

The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises a mixture of emulsifiers that comprises one or more nonionic emulsifiers. It could optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.
The mixture of emulsifiers has a HLB value from 10 to 16.
The nonionic emulsifiers can be chosen among the nonionic surfactants previously hereunder.
The nonionic emulsifiers could preferably be chosen among ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylene surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, sorbitol ester and their ethoxylated derivatives, glycol esters of fatty acids, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, polyoxyethylene fatty acid amides.
Preferably, nonionic emulsifiers are selected from:
(i) polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, especially (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:
R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH with:
- R3 representing a linear or branched C 8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and
- c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferentially between 2 and 150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.
The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 OE);
(ii) polyoxyalkylene alkylphenyl ethers,
(iii) polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid esters,
especially polyethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, most preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and
(iv) polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing
for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing for example
from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers could be selected from
alkyl ether of polyalkyleneglycol and alkyl esters of
polyalkyleneglycol, preferably of polyethyleneglycol (PEG).
Some useful emulsifiers are:
- polyethyleneglycol octyl ether; polyethyleneglycol lauryl ether; polyethyleneglycol tridecyl ether; polyethyleneglycol cetyl ether; polyethyleneglycol stearyl ether; among these, mention may be made more particularly of trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6.
- polyethyleneglycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethyleneglycol stearylphenyl ether;
- polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethyleneglycol
sorbitan monooleate.
- polyethyleneglycol stearate, and especially PEG-100 stearate.
Most preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are chosen among
steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and their mixture; preferably, all these emulsifiers are present in the mixture of emulsifiers.
The mixture of emulsifiers could comprise one or more cationic emulsifiers that could be selected among tetraalkylammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylarylammonium halides, and their salts; quaternary ammonium compounds including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be chosen among cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as chloride.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably of from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, when present, in a total amount of from 0.5 to 1,5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total amount of from 40 to 60% by weight, preferably of from 45 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of from 35 to 45% by weight, preferably of from 38-42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 8-12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion comprises water preferably in an amount of from 25 to 50% by weight, preferably of from 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably of from 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
The oil-in-water emulsion could additionally comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, that could be present in the emulsion in a quantity of from 0,5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
A method of preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises:
- a step of mixing one or more trialkylsilyl terminated
dialkylpolysiloxanes of viscosity of from 40,000 to less than
100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and one or more amino silicones of viscosity of
from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of from 2 to
10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of from
15°C to 40°C, preferably at 25°C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid,
then
- a step of adding a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or
more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has a
HLB value from 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a
silicone-emulsifier-mixture, then
- a step of homogenizing the silicone-emulsifier-mixture
followed by
- a step of adding, preferably step-wise, water, preferably
demineralized water, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having D50
particle size of less than 350 nm.
The method of preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion could further comprise an additional step of adding a biocide. Biocide could

be added for preserving the emulsion against microbial contamination. The biocide could be added at the level of for preserving emulsion against microbial contamination and obtaining the said emulsion. The quantity of the biocide depends on the type of biocide and as recommended by the manufacturer.
The preparation of the mixture of emulsifiers could be made by mixing one or more nonionic emulsifiers.
The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e. after addition of the biocide) is preferably of from 4 to 6.
The oil-in-water emulsion has D50 particle size of less than 350 nm, preferably of from 100 to 300 nm, more preferably from 150 to 250 nm, most preferably from 160 to 200 nm. It corresponds to the average hydrodynamic particle diameter. The D50 particle size is expressed in volume. The D50 particle size could be measured by using a device ZetaSizer from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method.
Particle size measurement
Emulsion particle size is measured by using a device ZetaSizer from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS which is based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method. The D50 value of particle size (average hydrodynamic particle diameter) is measured, wherein the evaluating algorithm is “cumulants analysis”.
Take 0.5 g of the emulsion sample in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of demineralized water is poured into it and then mixed properly to get the sample test solution. The sample test solution is poured in the cuvette cell and is put into the slot of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the value of the particle diameter at 50% in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50=170 nm, then 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170 nm, and 50% smaller than 170 nm or about 50% by volume of all droplets in said emulsion is 170 nm.
Viscosity measurement
The viscosity, especially of the silicones or of the emulsion, is measured at 25°C.
For viscosities between 1000 to 40,000 mPa.s at 25ºC: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar Rheometer; model

MCR101, geometry single gap cylinder: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
For viscosities between 40,000 to 100,000 mPa.s at 25ºC: the viscosity could be measured with an Anton Paar Rheometer; model MCR101, 25-6 cone (Cone-plate geometry: 25 mm dia. / 6° cone); the “Zero gap” setting being made and with a shear rate of 1 s-1 for 2 minutes, at 25°C.
Three measurements are made for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. MCR Rheometer Series products work as per USP (US Pharmacopeia Convention) 912 – Rotational Rheometer methods.
Amine value measurement
The amine value is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Make: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. 0.6 g of sample is taken in a 500 ml beaker and a toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture is added and stirred to mix the sample thoroughly; then the sample soluti on is titrated with a 0.1(N) HCl solution. A determination of the blank value with the toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture is also done. The calculation of the amine value is done by the above mentioned potentiometer.
The amine value is calculated according to the formula:
of sample,
where V= Volume of HCl required in ml, VBlank= Volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with the toluene-butanol 1:1 mixture in ml; N= Normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1 N, W= weight of the sample taken in gram.
HLB Value
The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art, and denotes the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, HLB values refer to the values at 25°C.
The HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.
Calculation of HLB value of nonionic surfactans is calculated according to the equation : with E being the weight
percentage of oxyethylenecontent and P being the weight percentage of

polyhydric alcohol content, described in to the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, n°4), pp.249-256.
It can also experimentally be determined according to the book of F. Puisieux and M. Seiller, entitled "Galenica 5: Les systèmes disperses - Tome I - Agents de surface et émulsions - Chapitre IV -Notions de HLB et de HLB critique, pp.153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Determination de HLB par voie experimentale [Experimental determination of HLB], pp.164-180".
The calculated HLB is the preferred HLB values that should be taken into account.
Said calculated HLB could be defined as being the following:
“calculated HLB = 20 × molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass.”
For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units condensed onto the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “Griffin HLB” as defined hereabove.
For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being beyond the carbonyl group, starting from the fatty chain(s).
For ionic surfactants/emulsifiers, the HLB value of individual
surfactant/emulsifier can be calculated applying the Davies formula as
described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of
emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent",
Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the
International Congress of Surface Activity): 426-438.
According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution afforded by the structur al components of the emulsifier: HLB = (hydrophilic groups numbers) – n(group number per
Approximate HLB values for some cationic emulsifiers are given in Table IV, in “Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics”, GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pp17-27.
When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are blended for use, the HLBMix is said to be the required HLB for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation
where = the amount (weight) of the first emulsifier (A)
used, and = the amount (weight) of the second emulsifier (B);

= the assigned HLB values for emulsifiers A and B; = the HLB of the mixture.
Said oil-in-water emulsion is for example described in WO2017/108824.
The silicone(s) preferably used in the invention may be in emulsion form. They are preferably selected from polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (also known as dimethiconol); polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicone; amino silicones and mixtures thereof. As an example of mixture thereof mention may be made of a PDMS and aminosilicone, in emulsion form.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.3 % to 8% by weight, better from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Carboxylic acid(s)
The third essential component of the cosmetic composition of the invention is one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I).

wherein :
• A is a monovalent group when n is 0, or multivalent when n is
equal to or greater than 1; it is a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or
non cyclic, aromatic or non aromatic, hydrocarbon group
comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by
one or more heteroatoms, and/or substituted by one or more
hydroxy and/or amino groups; preferably A is a alkyl or
phenyl monovalent group or alkylene or phenylene
polyvalent group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy
groups;
• n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably n from 0 to 5,
better still from 0 to 2.
More particularly, the one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I) are chosen from a-hydroxyacids, wherein A is a alkyl, in
particular a alkyl group, or a phenyl group or aalkylene

group, in particular a alkylene group, substituted by one or
more hydroxy groups; preferably by one OH; and n ranges from 0 to 2. More particularly, the one or more carboxylic acids are chosen from compounds of formula (I) wherein:
- n=0 and A is a alkyl group, in particular a alkyl group, or a alkyl group substituted by one OH, in particular a alkyl group substituted by one OH; or
- n=0 and A is a phenyl group, or a phenyl group substituted by one OH; or
- n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent alkyl group, in particular a alkyl group, or a alkyl group substituted by one OH, in particular a alkyl group substituted by one OH.
Even more preferentially the one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I) are chosen from salicylic acid, citric acid, glutaric acid and lactic acid, and better still it is salicylic acid , optionally in combination with citric acid or lactic acid.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, better from 0.15% to 3% by weight, and better still from 0.2 to 2 % relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional cationic polymer(s)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional cationic polymers different from the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units described above. These optional additional cationic polymers do not contain any acrylic and/or methacrylic unit and are non silicone polymers.
The additional cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and approximately and preferably between approximately.
Among the additional cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
(1) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention

may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives
comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose
copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary
ammonium groups are especially described in French patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted
with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described
especially in US patent 4 131 576, and mention may be made of
hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or
hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with [(meth)acrylic
units]dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products
corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride). Such products are especially sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.
(2) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent
alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched
chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or
with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or
quaternization products of these polymers.
(3) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by
polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these
polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a
diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-

unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-
haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer
resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is
reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-
haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
(4) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the
condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids
followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be
made, for example, of adipic
acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which
the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably
denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention
may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/
dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under
the name CARTARETINE F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(5) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine
comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary
amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and
saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon
atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the
dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the
resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a
mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of
the polyamino amide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers
of this type are sold in particular under the name HERCOSETT 57 by
the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or
DELSETTE 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic
acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of
dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers
containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to
formula (XII) or (XIII):


in which:
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- independently of each other, denote aalkyl group, a hydroxyl alkyl group, a amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; independently of each other, preferably denote a alkyl group; and
- Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate,
tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the
dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymer sold for example under the name MERQUAT 100 by the company Nalco.
(7) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

in which:

- which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,
or else together or separately, constitute,
with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom,
or else represent a linear or branched
alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or
group in which R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups
comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the
main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or
sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino,
hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that A1, R 13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group wherein n and p, which may be
identical or different, denote an integer from 2 to 20, and wherein D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula in which Z denotes a
linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or a group
corresponding to one of the following formulae:
where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine
derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-,
where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or
else the divalent radical

d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;

Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

in which , which may be identical or different, denote
an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid.
A particularly preferred compound of formula (XV) is that for which represent a methyl radical and
and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.
(8) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XVI):

in which:
which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, p-hydroxyethyl, p-hydroxypropyl or
group, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of
vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names
Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
(10) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
(11) Polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A’) below:

(b) optionally, one or more units corresponding to formula (B’) below:

In other words, these polymers may be chosen especially from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A’) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B’), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B’).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer,
measured by light scattering, may range from 1,000 to

3,000,000 g/mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 g/mol and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g/mol.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A’) and optionally units of formula (B’) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Other additional cationic polymers that may be used in the
context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein
hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines,
polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units,
condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
The additional cationic polymers, different from the
cationic/amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units described above, are preferably chosen from the cationic polysaccharides corresponding to the general family (1).
More preferentially the additional cationic polymers are chosen from cationic guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups (with preferably alkyl groups, and more preferentially methyl groups),
better still from hydroxyl alkyl guar gums comprising
trialkylammonium groups, and even more preferably the additional cationic polymers are chosen from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition can comprise:
- one or more polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or
methacrylic units, preferably chosen from (meth)acrylamido
alkyl)tri alkyl) ammonium halide /(meth)acrylamide
copolymers, (meth)acrylamido alkyl)tri alkyl) ammonium
halide / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers,
(meth)acrylamido alkyl)tri alkyl) ammonium halide /
alkyl) (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers;
(meth)acrylic acid/ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers and mixtures thereof, and
- one or more additional cationic polymers, different from the
polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units
described above, preferably chosen from the cationic polysaccharides

corresponding to the general family (1); more preferentially chosen from cationic guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups; better still from hydroxyalkyl guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups; and even more preferably the additional polymers are chosen from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides.
The amount of additional cationic polymer(s), different from the cationic polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units, present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, even more preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The weight ratio between the total amount of cationic /amphoteric polymer(s) including the cationic/amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s) (a.) and the optional cationic polymer(s) (d.), and the amount of carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) (c.) is less than 1, preferentially less than or equal to 0.80. This weight ratio ranges advantageously from 0.05 to 0.99, preferably from 0.10 to 0.90, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.80
Surfactant(s)
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more surfactants. They may be anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, non-ionic or cationic surfactants, and preferably chosen from anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
It is understood in the present description that:

- carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or
carboxylate function and may optionally also
comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate
function and may optionally also comprise one or
more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions;
and
- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function
but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or
-COO- ).
They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl -D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds.
The alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use may also be made of the alkyl monoesters of
polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as alkyl
polyglycoside-citrates, alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and
alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those compri sing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo,
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (XVII):

wherein,

- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl phenyl radical, a radical with denoting a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical, preferably, R1 is a and preferably alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (XVII), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups R1.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (XVII) in which:
- R1 denotes a alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (XVII) in which R denotes a alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen
or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.
Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- acylglutamates, especially of such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, especially of such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates, especially of such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
and especially acylglycinates;
- alkyl ether carboxylates and especially alkyl ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic
acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide
groups;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function
They may be chosen from the following compounds:
alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-
olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds.The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- and especiallyalkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
- and especially alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- acylisethionates and preferably
acylisethionates,
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds.
The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
These compounds are possibly polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- alkyl sulfates, especially of
- alkyl ether sulfates, especially of or even preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts,
monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine
salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-
propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- and especially alkyl sulfates;
- and especially alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- and especiallyalkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;
- and especially alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- acylisethionates and preferably
acylisethionates;
- and especially acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsarcosinates;
- alkyl ether carboxylates, preferablyalkyl ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic
acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50
alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- and especially acylglutamates;
- and especiallyacylglycinates;
in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants are of alkyl ether sulphate type and are preferably chosen from salts, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium salts, ammoniums salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or the salts of alkaline earth metals for example magnesium salts, of alkyl sulphates, of alkylamide sulphates, of alkyl ether sulphates, of alkylamido ether sulphates, of alkylaryl ether sulphates, of monoglyceride sulphates and mixtures thereof.
The alkyl radical of all these various compounds preferably contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
More preferentially, the anionic surfactants are selected from the anionic surfactants of alkyl ether sulphate type, and better still from C12-C14 alkyl ether sulphate salts, such as lauryl ether sulphate salts.
The anionic surfactants suitable in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s).
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used
in the present invention may especially be secondary or tertiary
aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the
aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22
carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one
anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulphate,
phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of
alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, amido(C3-
alkyl)betaines or amido sulfobetaines.

Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (XVIII) and (XIX) below:

wherein,

- Ra represents a alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
- X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate;
- m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
Or alternatively M+ and X- are absent;

wherein
- B represents the group
- B' represents the group
- X' represents the group
or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group or the group
- Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- represents aalkyl oralkenyl group of an acid which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed
linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a alkyl group and its iso
form, or an unsaturated group;
- m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
- Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
The compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA
dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium

cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium
caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium
cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium
caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate,
lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid and
hydroxyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.
Examples that may be mentioned include the
cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (XX):

wherein,
- Y’’ represents the group
or the group
- and independently of each other, represent a alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra" represents a alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a''-C(O)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; and
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds of formula (XX), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Among the above-mentioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferred to use alkyl)betaines such as
cocoylbetaine, alkyl)amido alkyl)betaines such as
cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl)amido
alkyl)betaines, and even more cocoylamidopropylbetaine.
The composition may comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.
They may be chosen from alcohols, α-diols and
alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or

polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide
and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty
amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units,
polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and
in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid
esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide
units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyoxyalkylenated and preferably
polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of
ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated plant oils,
alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl)amine
oxides or acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
Mention may also be made of nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented especially by the following general formula:

in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8/C16 alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, and especially decyl glucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides, are most particularly preferred.
Among the commercial products, mention may be made of the
products sold by the company COGNIS under the names
PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or else the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.
Preferably, use is made of C8/C16-alkyl(poly)glycosides 1,4, especially as an aqueous 53% solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
Preferentially, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from
alkyl)polyglycosides, and more particularly
alkyl)(poly)glycosides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of
sorbitan, polyethoxylated fatty alcohols and
polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters, these compounds
preferably containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the surfactant(s) is(are) chosen from anionic surfactants, preferably of sulphate type; amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, preferably of betaine type; nonionic surfactants, preferably of polyglucoside type; and mixtures thereof.

When it(they) is(are) present, the total amount of surfactant(s) usually ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
Optional additive(s)
The cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain various additives conventionally used in hair compositions.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers different from the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units previously described, antidandruff agents, anti -seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, fatty substances, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids different from the carboxylic acid c. previously described, fragrances and preserving agents, and mixtures thereof.
The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, and preferably between 0.05% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additive(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, especially for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres a composition as described above, and after an optional leave-on time, optionally removing it by rinsing.
The leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres may range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.
Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.
In the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair such as hair.
In the above description, all the preferred embodiments with regard to the components may be used individually or in combination.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention.
Examples
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are given as weight percentages of active matter (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition .
Example 1
The following compositions 1-12 according to the invention and comparative compositions 1’-4’ were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the following tables 1-3 and table 4 below, respectively.
The silicones noted with used in compositions 1-12 and
comparative compositions 1’-4’ are in the form of an emulsion. Said silicone emulsion is described in example 1 of WO 2017/108824. It contains dimethicone, amodimethicone, non-ionic surfactants and water. The procedure of preparation thereof is also described in said example 1 of WO 2017/108824.
In the following tables, the active matter contents in dimethicone (Si) and in amodimethicone (SiA) of said silicone emulsion* were indicated in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Table 1
1 2 3 4
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium
chloride/acrylamide
copolymer 0.075 0.075 0.075 0.075
Citric acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9 13.9
Cocobetaine 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Cocamidopropylbétaïne 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
Glycol distearate 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6
Silicone emulsion* 0.4 SiA + 1.6 Si 0.3 SiA + 1.2 Si 0.2 SiA + 0.8 Si 0.1 SiA + 0.4 Si
Hexylene glycol 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15
PEG-45M 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03
Glycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Coconut oil 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02
Carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175
Sodium chloride 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3
Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Qs
Water qsp 100 100 100 100
Ratio 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21

Table 2
5 6 7 8
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium
chloride/acrylamide
copolymer 0.075 0.075 0.075 0.075
Lactic acid 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9 13.9
Cocobetaine 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Cocamidopropylbétaïne 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
Glycol distearate 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6
Silicone emulsion* 0.4 SiA + 1.6 Si 0.3 SiA + 1.2 Si 0.2 SiA + 0.8 Si 0.1 SiA + 0.4 Si
Hexylene glycol 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15
PEG-45M 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03
Glycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Coconut oil 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02
Carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175
Sodium chloride 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3
Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Qs
Water qsp 100 100 100 100
Ratio 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21

Table 3
9 10 11 12
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium
chloride/acrylamide
copolymer 0.075 0.075 0.075 0.075
Salicylic acid 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9 13.9
Cocobetaine 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Cocamidopropylbétaïne 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
Glycol distearate 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6
Silicone emulsion* 0.4 SiA + 1.6 Si 0.3 SiA + 1.2 Si 0.2 SiA + 0.8 Si 0.1 SiA + 0.4 Si
Hexylene glycol 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15
PEG-45M 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03
Glycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Coconut oil 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02
Carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175
Sodium chloride 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3
Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Qs
Water qsp 100 100 100 100
Ratio 0.21 0.21 0.21 0.21

Table 4
1’ 2’ 3’ 4’
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer 0.075 0.075 0.075 0.075
Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9 13.9
Cocobetaine 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Cocamidopropylbétaïne 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
Glycol distearate 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6
Silicone emulsion* 0.4 SiA + 1.6 Si 0.3 SiA + 1.2 Si 0.2 SiA + 0.8 Si 0.1 SiA + 0.4 Si
Hexylene glycol 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15
PEG-45M 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03
Glycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Coconut oil 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02
Carbomer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.175 0.175 0.175 0.175
Sodium chloride 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3
Preservatives Qs Qs Qs Qs
Water qsp 100 100 100 100
Ratio 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25
Then each composition was applied 5 times on hair locks with a
rinsing step after each application, and the silicone deposition was
measured by a WDXRF Optim’x Thermofischer (Wavelength
Dispersion) XRF system on samples of 250 mg of hair. This measurement was repeated three times for each sample.
The results are indicated in table 5 below.

Table 5
Composition Quantity of silicone deposited
(µg/g of hair)
1 2009 ± 19.30
2 1735±13.00
3 1157±10.97
4 631±8.50

56 2376 ± 10.07
7 1663±14.57
8 1033±13.20
623±10.97
9 2252 ± 16.09
10 1788±9.29
11 1179±11.00
12 805±5.51
1’ 1149 ± 15.57
2’ 958±4.04
3’ 733±7.09
4’ 527±7.77
Table 5 shows that the use of the specific carboxylic acids of the invention and of the ratio in according to the invention results in a significantly improved quantity of silicone deposited on hair.
Example 2
The following compositions 13-24 according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in tables 6-9 below.

Table 6
13 14 15
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer 0.075 0.075 0.075
Dimethiconol 1.5 1.0 0.5
Citric acid 1 1 1
Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9
Cocobetaine 1.8 1.8 1.8
PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 0.16 0.16 0.16
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 0.1 0.1 0.1
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.175 0.175 0.175
Propylene glycol 0.15 0.15 0.15
Sodium chloride 1.9 1.9 1.9
Preservatives Qs Qs Qs
Water qsp 100 100 100
Ratio 0.21 0.21 0.21

Table 7
16 17 18
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer 0.075 0.075 0.075
Dimethiconol 1.5 1.0 0.5
Glutaric acid 1 1 1
Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9
Cocobetaine 1.8 1.8 1.8
PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 0.16 0.16 0.16
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 0.1 0.1 0.1
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.175 0.175 0.175
Propylene glycol 0.15 0.15 0.15
Sodium chloride 1.9 1.9 1.9
Preservatives Qs Qs Qs
Water qsp 100 100 100
Ratio 0.21 0.21 0.21

Table 8

19 20 21
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer 0.075 0.075 0.075
Dimethiconol 1.5 1.0 0.5
Lactic acid 0.9 0.9 0.9
Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9
Cocobetaine 1.8 1.8 1.8
PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 0.16 0.16 0.16
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 0.1 0.1 0.1
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.175 0.175 0.175
Propylene glycol 0.15 0.15 0.15
Sodium chloride 1.9 1.9 1.9
Preservatives Qs Qs Qs
Water qsp 100 100 100
Ratio 0.23 0.23 0.23
Table 9
22 23 24
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer 0.075 0.075 0.075
Dimethiconol 1.5 1.0 0.5
Salicylic acid 1.2 1.2 1.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 13.9
Cocobetaine 1.8 1.8 1.8
PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 0.16 0.16 0.16
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 0.1 0.1 0.1
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.175 0.175 0.175
Propylene glycol 0.15 0.15 0.15
Sodium chloride 1.9 1.9 1.9
Preservatives Qs Qs Qs
Water qsp 100 100 100
Ratio 0.21 0.21 0.21

The compositions could be used as a shampoo. They are transparent and provide good cosmetic properties to the hair, such as softness, smoothness, suppleness, ease of passing fingers and combing.
Further the silicone deposition was measured according to method described in example 1. The results are indicated below.
Silicone deposition measurements
Composition Silicone deposition (ppm) Standard deviation
13 2340 3.25
14 1782 2.22
15 801 1.68
16 3114 7.58
17 1991 4.55
18 867 1.02
19 3277 2.56
20 1807 3.33
21 977 1.22
22 3181 8.58
23 1677 4.56
24 896 1.25
The compositions according to the invention gave good silicone deposition even for composition with low silicone content (0,5%)
Example 3
The following comparative and invention compositions were prepared.

Composition comparative Invention

Acrylamidopropyltrimonium
chloride/acrylamide
copolymer 0.075 0.075
Dimethiconol 2 2
Salicylic acid 0.2 1.2
Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9
Cocobetaine 1.8 1.8
PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 0.16 0.16
PPG-5-Ceteth-20 0.1 0.1
Guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride 0.175 0.175
Propylene glycol 0.15 0.15
Sodium chloride 1.9 1.9
Preservatives qs qs
Water qsp 100 100
Ratio 1.25 0.21
The silicone deposition was measured according to method described in example 1. The results are indicated below.

Composition Silicone deposition (ppm) Standard deviation
invention 3133 4.44
Comparative 2395 3.32
The composition according to the invention improved the silicone deposition on hair compared to the comparative composition .

I/We Claim :
1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
a. one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one
or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s),
b. one or more silicones,
c. one or more carboxylic acids of formula (I):

wherein :
• A is a monovalent group when n is 0, or multivalent when n is
equal to or greater than 1; it is a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic
or non cyclic, aromatic or non aromatic, hydrocarbon group
comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by
one or more heteroatoms, and/or substituted by one or more
hydroxy and/or amino groups; and
• n is an integer ranging from 0 to 10,
and
d. optionally one or more cationic polymers different from the
polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units ,
with a weight ratio between the total amount of a. and d. and the amount of c., less than 1.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the
cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic
and/or methacrylic unit(s) are chosen from homopolymers or
copolymers derived from acrylic and/or methacrylic monomers, and
preferably from homopolymers or copolymers resulting from the
polymerization of one or more monomers including one or more
monomers of structure (II):

in which,
- denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl
radical,

- R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical, a radical or a linear or branched alkoxy radical, said alkoxy radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical or by a radical,
- R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical by a NR8R9 radical or by a sulfonic group and
- which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched alkyl radical;
- R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen
atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical; and
Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:



in which:
- which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a radical;
- R, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched
alkyl radical, preferably a linear alkyl radical, optionally
substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals;
- which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched alkyl radical;
- R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
- Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units further contain one or more units derived from comonomers that are selected from the families of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters, preferably selected from the families of acrylamide and methacrylamides, and more preferentially from the family of acrylamides.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymers comprising one or more

acrylic and/or methacrylic units are chosen from amphoteric polymers, and preferably from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide
type,
(ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of
(meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and
(iii) one or more units derived from an acidic monomer of
(meth)acrylic acid type.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, wherein the polymer(s) comprising one or more
acrylic and/or methacrylic units are chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido alkyl)tri alkyl) ammonium halide/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamide-propyltrimonium chloride/ (meth)acrylamide copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/ acrylamide copolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido alkyl)tri alkyl) ammonium halide /(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide/ methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ acrylic acid terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido alkyl)tri alkyl) ammonium halide/ alkyl) (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers,
preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / alkyl)
(meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; more preferably acrylic acid/ methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/ methyl acrylates terpolymers
- (meth)acrylic acid/ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers ,
- and mixtures thereof.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of polymer(s) a. ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, more preferentially from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even more preferentially from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone(s), preferably in emulsion form,

is(are) selected from polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups (also known as dimethiconol); polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicone; amino silicones and mixtures thereof.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone(s) is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the carboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are chosen from salicylic acid, citric acid, glutaric acid and lactic acid, and better still it is salicylic acid, optionally in combination with citric acid or lactic acid.
11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the carboxylic acid(s) is(are) present in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight and better still from 0.15% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the additional cationic polymer(s) is(are) chosen from cationic guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups (with preferably C1-C6 alkyl groups, and more preferentially methyl groups), better still from hydroxyl(C1-C4)alkyl guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups, and even more preferably the additional cationic polymers are chosen from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides.
13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total amount of a. and d., and the amount of c. ranges from 0.05 to 0.99, preferably from 0.1 to 0.9 and more preferably from 0.15 to 0.8.
14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which further comprises one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, in particular of sulphate type; amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, in particular of betaine type; nonionic surfactants, in particular of polyglucoside type; and mixtures thereof.

15. Cosmetic composition according to claim 14, wherein the total amount of surfactant(s) ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Cosmetic treatment process, especially for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein a composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to said keratin fibres.
17. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres

Documents

Application Documents

# Name Date
1 201921053706-STATEMENT OF UNDERTAKING (FORM 3) [24-12-2019(online)].pdf 2019-12-24
2 201921053706-FORM 1 [24-12-2019(online)].pdf 2019-12-24
3 201921053706-DECLARATION OF INVENTORSHIP (FORM 5) [24-12-2019(online)].pdf 2019-12-24
4 201921053706-COMPLETE SPECIFICATION [24-12-2019(online)].pdf 2019-12-24
5 201921053706-Proof of Right [11-03-2020(online)].pdf 2020-03-11
6 201921053706-FORM-26 [11-03-2020(online)].pdf 2020-03-11
7 Abstract1.jpg 2020-03-19
8 201921053706-FORM 18 [27-11-2023(online)].pdf 2023-11-27
9 201921053706-FER.pdf 2025-05-28
10 201921053706-FORM 3 [02-07-2025(online)].pdf 2025-07-02

Search Strategy

1 201921053706_SearchStrategyNew_E_cosmeticE_26-05-2025.pdf