The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
comprising one or more thickening polymer(s) and a particular blend
of vegetable and mineral oils.
The present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic
treatment wherein such a composition is applied on keratin fibres.
Finally the present invention relates to the use of such a
composition for conditioning keratin fibres, and more particularly
human keratin fibres such as the hair.
Many people are unsatisfied with the way their hair looks, and
have difficulty in styling it. Hair is generally damaged and embrittled
by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad
weather, but also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as
brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or
relaxing.
Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over
time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas.
Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to
use care compositions that condition the hair appropriately, giving it
satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of smoothness,
sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good
disentangling properties.
These hair care compositions may be, for example,
conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks or sera, and may be
in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less
thick. These compositions may be rinsed-out or leave-in compositions.
These compositions generally comprise a combination of
cationic conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants, cationic
polymers, silicones and/or fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, in
order to give the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in
terms of softness, smoothness and suppleness.
However, such conditioning agents, and in particular fatty
alcohols, often have the drawback of making the hair very lank and
heavy, which leads to the phenomenon commonly known as the "dull
effect". In other words, fatty alcohols become deposited in a large
XPQ DELKX 1.S-12-2Q15
3
amount on the hair, which has the consequence of making the hair
lank, oily and dull.
Nevertheless, removal or reduction of these fatty materials
decreases the conditioning effects, and thus the cosmetic properties of
the hair.
Most of these compositions also comprise silicones. Indeed,
these compounds are known to improve the cosmetic properties of
hair, especially in terms of smoothness and flexibility (as shown in JP
48(1973)-19941, JP 56(1986)-92808, and US 5 374 421). However,
several disadvantages remain. For instance, hair treated with these
compositions remains lank and sticky, and may present a poor
combability.
In addition, compositions comprising high levels of silicones
are unpleasant on hands during application. Indeed, the silicones affect
the spread and feel characteristics, providing particularly a sticky and
greasy feeling.
Therefore, there is a real need to develop compositions that do
not have the drawbacks described above, i.e. which are not only
pleasant to apply but which are also able to improve the cosmetic
properties of the hair, especially in terms of wet and dry combability,
suppleness, smoothness, manageability and shine, without overloading
the hair, or leading to a greasy feel or appearance.
The Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition,
comprising one or more (meth)acrylic thickening polymer(s) and a
particular blend of vegetable and mineral oils, makes it possible to
achieve the objectives outlined above.
In particular, it has been found that hair treated with such a
combination is less lank and heavy while the cosmetic properties are
improved, particularly in terms of smoothness, suppleness and shine.
The hair is also easily combed, leading to a better manageability and a
better styling.
Thus, the subject of the invention is especially a cosmetic
composition comprising:
XPO-. DELHI. 18'-1.2-2BI-5; 1 7 : 21
4
- one or more thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units,
- one or more vegetable oil(s), in an amount greater than or equal to
0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
- one or more hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral origin, in an amount
greater than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
The composition of the present invention is able to improve the
cosmetic properties of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin
fibres such as the hair, especially in terms of shine, softness,
smoothness and suppleness while at same time giving the hair a good
wet and dry combability, as well as an improved manageability and
providing thus better styling effects.
The hair is not overloaded, remains light and has no greasy
appearance and feel. The composition is also non sticky on hands with
a smooth glide feel on hand.
The present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic
treatment of keratin fibres, wherein the cosmetic composition of the
invention is applied on said keratin fibres.
Another object of the present invention concerns the use of the
composition of the present invention for conditioning keratin fibres, in
particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the
invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description
and the example that follows.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits
of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the
expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present
description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Thickening polymers
TPQ- DELHiX 1&-1,2:-281.5. IF : 21
5
The composition according to the present invention comprises
one or more thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units.
The term "polymer comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic
units" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present
invention, a polymer resulting from the polymerization of one or more
monomers including one or more monomers of structure (I):
/ - R 1 H2C=C
(D
Ri denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl
radical,
R.2 denoting a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy radical, a linear or
branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, an NR3R4 radical or a linear or branched
C1-C30 alkoxy radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl
radicals or by a quaternary ammonium radical,
R3 and R4 denoting a hydrogen atom or an optionally
oxyalkylenated C1-C30 alkyl radical, it being possible for the alkyl
radical to comprise a sulfonic group.
Preferably, Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.
The term "thickening polymer" is understood to mean, within
the meaning of the present invention, a polymer capable, by its
presence, of increasing the viscosity of the medium by at least 50
centipoises at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s"1. Preferably, the solution
obtained by dissolving the thickening polymer at 1 % by weight in
water or in a 50/50 by weight water/alcohol mixture exhibits a
viscosity at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s"1 which is greater than 100
centipoises. These viscosities can be measured using in particular
viscometers or rheometers having cone-plate geometry.
Preferably, the thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units can be chosen from:
(a) acrylic associative thickeners,
XF-O- DELHI. 18'-12;-2Q^1.S 1.7": .21.
6
(b) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers,
(c) crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (Ci-C6)alkyl
acrylate,
(d) non-ionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically
unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type,
(e) ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium
acrylate and of acrylamide,
(f) (meth)acrylamido((Ji-C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers and
copolymers,
(g) crosslinked methacrylo.yloxy(Ci-Chalkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium
homopolymers and copolymers, and
(h) mixtures thereof.
(a) The thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units can preferably be chosen from acrylic associative
thickeners.
The term "associative thickener" is understood to mean,
according to the invention, an amphophilic thickener comprising both
hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, in particular comprising at
least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
Mention may be made, as acrylic associative thickeners which
can be used in the composition according to the invention, of acrylic
associative polymers chosen from:
(i) non-ionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain
and at least one hydrophilic unit;
(ii) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic
unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;
(iii) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic
unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;
(iv) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one
hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;
the fatty chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
(i) The acrylic associative polymers may preferably be chosen
from non-ionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty
I PO D£LMI 1.&-- 1.2 - 2 Q 1 5 1 7 : 2 1
7
chain and at least one hydrophilic unit; the fatty chains having from 8
to 30 carbon atoms.
These non-ionic amphiphilic polymers can preferably be chosen
from:
- copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of
amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for
example oxyethylenated (C8-C22)alkyl acrylates), such as, for example,
the oxyethylenated methyl methacrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer
sold by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208; and
- copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of
hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for
example (C8-C22)alkyl (meth)acrylates), such as, for example,
polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
(ii) The acrylic associative polymers may preferably be chosen
from anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic
unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain; the fatty chains having
from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
These anionic amphiphilic polymers can be chosen from those
comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic
carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of unsaturated
carboxylic acid (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester type. They are preferably chosen
from those for which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic
carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of following formula
(II):
H,C=C C—OH
(ID
in which, R3 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, that is to say acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and for which the
hydrophobic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester
type corresponds to the monomer of following formula (III):
IPO DELHI. ia-12-2.©l-.5- 17:2.1
8
H , C ^ C C—OR,
I II
*' ° (HI)
in which, R4 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (that is to say acrylate,
methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or
CH3 (methacrylate units), Rs denoting a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22
alkyl radical.
(Cio-C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in
accordance with the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate,
stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate,
and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl
methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl
methacrylate.
Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are, for example,
described and prepared according to Patents US-3 915 921 and US-4
509 949.
The anionic amphiphilic polymers which can be used in the
context of the present invention can more particularly denote polymers
formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
acrylic acid and one or more esters of following formula (IV):
H2 C ^ C C—OR7
I 11
in which, R6 denotes H or CH3, R7 denoting an alkyl radical having
from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent, such as, for
example, those constituted of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic
acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of Cio-C30 alkyl acrylate
(hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking
polymerizable monomer, or 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid
(hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate
IFO. BiELB'X I S - 1 . 2 . - 20-1S JL,/' m ^—•.JL9
(hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking
polymerizable monomer, and
- essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the product
formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of
lauryl methacrylate.
The said crosslinking agent is a monomer comprising a
CH2 = C<^
group with at least one other polymerizable group, the
unsaturated bonds of which are non-conjugated with respect to one
another. Mention may in particular be made of polyallyl ethers, such
as, in particular, polyallyl sucrose and polyallyl pentaerythritol.
Among the said polymers above, preference is very particularly
given, according to the present invention, to the products sold by
Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2 and
Carbopol 1382, and more preferably still Pemulen TR1, and to the
product sold by S.E.P.C. under the name Coatex SX.
Mention may also be made, as anionic amphiphilic polymers
having fatty chains, of the copolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl
acrylate and dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of
ethoxylated alcohol sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by
Amerchol.
Mention may be made, as other anionic amphiphilic polymers
having fatty chains, of those comprising at least one acrylic monomer
having sulfonic group(s), in free or partially or completely neutralized
form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.
The hydrophobic portion present in the polymers of the
invention preferably comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more
preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from
12 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the sulfonic polymers in accordance with the
invention are partially or completely neutralized by an inorganic base
(sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an
organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an
XP-0 DELHI: 1 8 ~ 12: - 2LS.1 5 17'*-
10
aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such
as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
The sulfonic amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the
present invention generally have a number-average molecular weight
ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g/mol, preferably ranging from
20 000 to 5 000 000 g/mol and more preferably still ranging from 100
000 to 1 500 000 g/mol.
The sulfonic amphiphilic polymers according to the invention
may or may not be crosslinked. Crosslinked amphiphilic polymers are
preferably chosen.
When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be
chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used
for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
Mention may be made, for example, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether,
dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene
glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol
di(meth)acrylate or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate,
trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide,
methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl
maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane,
trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of
alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of
polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric and/or
vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
Methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or
trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) will more particularly be
used. The degree of crosslinking will generally vary from 0.01 mol%
to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol%, with
respect to the polymer.
The acrylic monomers having sulfonic group(s) are chosen in
particular from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids and N-
(Ci-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, such as
undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or
completely neutralized forms.
I F O- D'E L.H I • I & - i- 2.-2M 1 5 1-7 "-
11
More preferably, use will be made of (meth)acrylamido(Ci-
C22)alkylsulfonic acids, such as, for example,
acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid,
acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-
methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic
acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-
trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic aoid
Of 2-acryIamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their
partially or completely neutralized forms.
More particularly, use can be made of 2-acrylamido-2-
methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), and also its partially or
completely neutralized forms.
The amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention can
in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic AMPS® polymers
modified by reaction with an n-mono(C6-C22)alkylamine or a di[n-(C6-
C22)alkyl]amine, such as those described in Patent Application WO
00/31154; the polymers described in this patent application form part
of the content of the present description. These polymers can also
comprise other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers
chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their P-substituted
alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or monoor
polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic
anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these
compounds.
The polymers of the invention can be chosen from amphiphilic
copolymers of AMPS® and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated
hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion
having from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22
carbon atoms, more preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and
more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
These same copolymers can additionally comprise one or more
ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such
as (meth)acrylic acids, their P-substituted alkyl derivatives or their
esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols,
IPO DELHI 1S.-1Z-2015- 17 >
12
(meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid
or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
These copolymers are described in particular in Patent
Application EP-A-750 899, in Patent US 5 089 578 and in the
following Yotaro Morishima publications:
- "Self-assembling amphiphilic .polyelectrolytes and their
nanostructures", Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40,
(2000), 323-336;
- "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-
(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant
macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light
scattering", Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10, 3694-3704;
- "Solution properties of micelle networks formed by non-ionic
moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on
rheological behavior", Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332;
- "Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-
(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative
macromonomers", Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 1999, 40(2),
220-221.
The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these
specific copolymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates or
acrylamides of following formula (V):
CH;
o=c
I
Y- CH,—CH(R10)—o
(V)
in which, Rg and Rio, which are identical or different, denote a
hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably
IF & BEL, Hi X 1.&-1.2-- 2 & I 5 IT : 2.1.
13
methyl); Y denotes O or NH; R9 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon
radical comprising at least from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably
from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 6 to 18 carbon
atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and x denotes
a number of moles of alkylene oxide and varies from 0 to 100.
The R9 radical is preferably chosen from linear C6-Cig (for
example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl or n-dodecyl) alkyl
radicals Or branched or cyclic (for example cyclododecane (C12) or
adamantane (Cm)) alkyl radicals; C6-Ci8 perfluoroalkyi radicals (for
example the group of formula -(CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl
(C27) radical or a cholesterol ester residue, such as the cholesteryl
oxyhexanoate group; or polycyclic aromatic groups, such as
naphthalene or pyrene. Preference is more particularly given, among
these radicals, to linear alkyl radicals and more particularly to the ndodecyl
radical.
According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the
monomer of formula (V) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit
(x > 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene
chain preferably consists of ethylene oxide units and/or of propylene
oxide units and more particularly still consists of ethylene oxide units.
The number of oxyalkylene units generally varies from 3 to 100, more
preferably from 3 to 50 and more preferably still from 7 to 25.
Mention may be made, among these polymers, of:
- copolymers which are or are not crosslinked and which are or are not
neutralized, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS® units
and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide
units or of Cs-Ci6)alkyl (meth)acrylate units, with respect to the
polymer, such as those described in Application EP-A-750 899; and
- terpolymers comprising from 10 moI% to 90 mol% of acrylamide
units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS® units and from 5 mol% to
80 mol% of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described
in Patent US-5 089 578.
Mention may also be made of copolymers of completely
neutralized AMPS® and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also non-
XPO- DELHI IS - 1 2 - 2815; 17:21
14
crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS® and of ndodecylmethacrylamide,
such as those described in the
abovementioned papers by Morishima.
Mention will more particularly be made of the copolymers
constituted of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®)
units of following formula (VI):
in which, X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal
cation or the ammonium ion,
and of units of following formula (VII):
in which, x denotes an integer varying from 3 to 100, preferably from
5 to 80 and more preferably from 7 to 25, Rn has the same meaning as
that indicated above for R8 in the formula (V) and Ri2 denotes a linear
or branched C6-C22 and more preferably C10-C22 alkyl.
The polymers which are particularly preferred are those for
which x = 25, Rn denotes methyl and R12 represents n-dodecyl; they
are described in the abovementioned papers by Morishima.
The polymers for which X+ denotes sodium or ammonium are
more particularly preferred.
IP© DELHI- 1 8 - 1 2 . - 2 8 2 5; 1,7 :2..1
15
(iii) The acrylic associative thickeners may preferably be
chosen from cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one
hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain; the fatty
chains having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
The cationic amphiphilic polymers which can be used in the.
composition according to the present invention are preferably chosen
from polyacrylates having aminated side groups.
The polyacrylates having quaternized or non-quaternized
aminated side groups possess, for example, hydrophobic groups of the
steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol) or (Cio-C30)alkyl
PEG-20 itaconate type.
Mention may be made, as examples of polyacrylates having
aminated side chains, of the polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 or
Structure Plus from National Starch.
(iv) The acrylic associative polymers may preferably be chosen
from amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one
hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain; the fatty
chains having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
Among these amphoteric amphiphilic polymers, mention may
be made of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic
acid/Cio-C3o alkyl methacrylate copolymers, the alkyl radical
preferably being a stearyl radical.
(b) The thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units can preferably be chosen from crosslinked acrylic
acid homopolymers.
Among these crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, mention
may be made of those crosslinked by an allyl ether of an alcohol of the
sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the names
Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Goodrich or the products
sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VSA,
Cosmedia SP® or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate comprising 90% of
dry matter and 10% of water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate
as inverse emulsion comprising approximately 60% of dry active
matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5
IP a DELHI 1.&-L2.-2BXS. l.T-2..
16
Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis, or partially neutralized crosslinked
sodium polyacrylates occurring in the form of an inverse emulsion
comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name
Luvigel® EM by BASF.
(c) The thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units can preferably be chosen from crosslinked
copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylate.
Among these crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and
of (Ci-Ce)alkyl acrylate, mention may be made of the product sold
under the name Viscoatex 538C by Coatex, which is a crosslinked
copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous
dispersion comprising 38% of active material, or the product sold
under the name Aculyn 33 by Rohm & Haas, which is a crosslinked
copolymer of acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous
dispersion comprising 28% of active material. Mention may more
particularly be made of the crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate
copolymer in the form of an aqueous 30% dispersion manufactured and
sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by Noveon.
(d) The thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units can preferably be chosen from non-ionic
homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated
monomers of ester and/or amide type.
Among these non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers
comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide
type, mention may be made of the products sold under the names of:
Cyanamer P250 by Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by US
Cosmetics (methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate
copolymer); Acryloid B66 by Rohm & Haas (butyl
methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer); or BPA 500 by Kobo
(polymethyl methacrylate).
(e) The thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units can preferably be chosen from ammonium acrylate
homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of
acrylamide.
XPQt HELHI 1&-12-2-015: 1.7:21
17
Among ammonium acrylate homopolymers, mention may be
made of the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by
Hoechst.
Among copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide,
mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bozepol C
Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by Hoechst (they are described
and prepared in the documents FR-2 416 723, US-2 798 053 and US-2
923 692).
(f) The thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units can preferably be chosen from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-
C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers and copolymers.
Among these (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C4)alkylsulfonic acid
homopolymers and copolymers, preference is preferably given to the
use of crosslinked polymers.
More particularly still, they are partially or completely
neutralized.
These are water-soluble or water-swellable polymers.
Mention may in particular be made, among these polymers, of:
- polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid,
- polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid,
- polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid,
- poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid),
- poly(2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid),
- poly(2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid).
Polymers of this type and in particular crosslinked and
partially or completely neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2-
methylpropanesulfonic acids) are known, described and prepared in
Patent Application DE-196 25 810.
They are generally characterized in that they comprise,
randomly distributed:
- from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of following formula (VIII):
I P Qi D E-.L. H-X 18: - 1 2 - 2 Q> 1.5, 1.7 : 2.1-
18
?H3
O NH c— CH2S03"xH
CH,
(VIII)
in which, X+ denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, including H+,
and
from 0.01% to 10% by weight of at least one crosslinking unit
having at least two olefinic double bonds;
the proportions by weight being defined with respect to the total
weight of the polymer.
X+ represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in
particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to
that of an alkaline earth metal, or the ammonium ion.
Preferably, the crosslinked and neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-
2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) comprises from 98% to 99.5% by
weight of units of formula (VIII) and from 0.5% to 2% by weight of
crosslinking units.
The crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double
bonds are chosen, for example, from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether,
polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether,
hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyloxyethane or other polyfunctional
alcohol allyl or vinyl ethers, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate,
triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether,
methylenebisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.
The crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double
bonds are more particularly still chosen from those corresponding to
the following general formula (IX):
I P O ' D:ELH:I IS - 12; - 1 Q 1 5 ' 1 7 . ' - 21
19
C—CH— CH3
(IX)
in which, R!3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a Ci-Ca alkyl and more
particularly methyl (trimethylolpropane triacrylate).
The acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®)
polymers according to the present invention generally have a numberaverage
molecular weight ranging from ranging from 50 000 to
10 000 000 g/mol, and preferably ranging from 80 000 to 8 000 000
g/mol.
Among these AMPS® polymers, mention may preferably be
made of:
crosslinked sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate
polymers, such as for example the product sold under the name
Simulgel 800 (CTFA name : Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate),
crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate
polymers, such as for example the polymers described in the patent EP
0 815 928 Bl, or the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin
AMPS® by Clariant (INCI name : Ammonium Polydim^thyltauramide);
- AMPS/acrylamide copolymers, in particular crosslinked acrylamide/
sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers such as for
example the product sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (INCI name :
Polyacrylamide/Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin/ Laureth-7) or the product sold
under the name Simulgel 600 by Seppic (INCI name :
Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/ Isohexadecane/
Polysorbate-80);
- AMPS®/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers or AMPS®/vinylformamide
copolymers, such as for example the copolymer used in the product
sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by Clariant (CTFA name :
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer) neutralized by
sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate;
XPO- DELB1 1 8 - 1 2 : - 2 ^ - 1 5- 1.7 : 2
20
- AMPS /sodium acrylate copolymers, such as for example the
AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer used in the product sold under the
name Simulgel EG® by Seppic or under the name Sepinov EM
(CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate
copolymer);
- AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as for example the
AMPS®/hydroxy6thyl acrylate copolymere used in the product sold
under the name Simulgel NS® by Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl
Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane
(And) Polysorbate 60) or the sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane
sulfonate /Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer sold under the name
Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium
Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).
(g) The thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units can preferably be chosen from crosslinked
methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4) alky ltri(Ci-Chalky lamm on ium homopolymers
and copolymers.
Among these crosslinked methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-
C4)alkylammonium homopolymers and copolymers, mention may be
made of crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-
C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by
homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized
by methyl chloride or by copolymerization of acrylamide with
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the
homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking by an
olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular
methylenebisacrylamide.
Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked
aery lam ide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80
by weight) copolymer in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by
weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold
under the name of Salcare® SC 92 by Ciba. Use may also he made of a
crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer
IFO DELHI X&--12-ZD15 1 7 - 2 1.
21
in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the
names of Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by Ciba.
Preferably, the thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units is (are) chosen from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-
C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers and copolymers.
More preferably, the thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic
and/or methacrylic units is (are) chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-
methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) polymers, and better still from
crosslinked sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymers,
crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate
polymers, crosslinked acrylamide/ sodium acrylamido-2-methyl
propane sulfonate copolymers, acrylamido-2-methyl propane
sulfonate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylamido-2-methyl propane
sulfonate/vinylformamide copolymers, acrylamido-2-methyl propane
sulfonate/sodium acrylate copolymers, acrylamido-2-methyl propane
sulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers and mixtures thereof.
And even better, the thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic
and/or methacrylic units is (are) chosen from crosslinked sodium
acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymers, and even more
preferably crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methyl
propane sulfonate copolymers, such as the products with the INCI
denomination polyacrylamide/ C13-C14 isoparaffin/ laureth-7;
acrylamide/ sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/ isohexadecane/
polysorbate-80; hydroxyethyl acrylate/ sodium acryloyldimethyl
taurate copolymer and mixtures thereof.
The amount of thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units, which are present in the composition according to
the present invention, preferably ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight,
and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
Vegetable oils
The composition according to the present invention further
comprises one or more vegetable oil(s), in an amount greater than or
IF O BE.LH X' L8 - 12.."- 2B-I. S 17 '- 21-
22
equal to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The term "oil", according to the present invention, means a
"fatty substance" that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at
atmospheric pressure (1.013* 105 Pa).
The term "fatty substance", according to the present invention,
means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary
temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013* 105 Pa)
(solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less than 1% and even more
preferentially of less than 0.1%). They have in their structure at least
one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a
sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty
substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same
temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform,
dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene,
tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
In addition, the liquid fatty substances of the present invention
are nonpolyoxyethylenated and nonpolyglycerolated.
Preferably, the vegetable oil(s) is (are) chosen from oils of
plant origin containing one or more ester(s) of glycerol and fatty acids
having a C6-C30 alkyl chain, more preferentially a C8-C22 alkyl chain
and even better a Cio-Cis alkyl chain.
The vegetable oil(s) is (are) advantageously chosen from esters
of mono-, di- or triacids having a C6-C30 alkyl chain with glycerol.
Among vegetable oils, that may be used in the present
invention, mention may be made of triglyceride oils of plant origin,
such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon
atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or
alternatively, for example, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee, oil,
safflower oil, argan oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot
kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara groundnut oil, avocado oil, mango
oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, seabuckthorn
pulp oil, bilberry oil, poppy oil, orange seed oil, sweet almond oil,
XPQ- DELHI 1.8-1.2 201.5 17:21
23
palm oil, coconut oil, vernonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed
oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
The vegetable oil(s) is (are) preferably chosen from coconut
oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, argan oil and mixtures thereof.
The amount of vegetable oil(s), present in the composition
according to the present invention, preferably the amount of vegetable
oil(s) ranges from 0.8 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1
to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Hydrocarbon oils
The composition according to the present invention further
comprises one or more hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral origin, in an
amount greater than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
The hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral origin is (are) preferably
chosen from C6-32 liquid hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof.
The term "liquid hydrocarbon", according to the present
invention, means a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and
hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at
atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 * 105 Pa).
More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:
- linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 alkanes. Examples that
may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and
isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral origin, with more than 16
carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins or liquid petrolatum.
The hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral origin is (are)
advantageously chosen from liquid paraffins, liquid petrolatum and
mixtures thereof.
The amount of hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral origin, present in
the composition according to the present invention, preferably ranges
from 4 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 13% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
XP-O DELHI 1&. - 12. - 2 © 1 5 U '• 2:
24
The total amount of vegetable oil(s) and of hydrocarbon oil(s)
of mineral origin is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight;
preferentially, the total amount of vegetable oil(s) and of hydrocarbon
oil(s) of mineral origin ranges from 5 to 25% by weight, and even
better from 6 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
Silicone oils
The composition according to the present invention may further
comprise one or more silicone oil(s).
The term "silicone oil", according to the present invention,
means an oil containing at least one silicon atom.
The silicone oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile and cyclic,
linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified with
organic groups, having a viscosity from 5><10"6 to 2.5 m2/s at 25°C,
and preferably from lxlO"5 to 1 m2/s.
Preferably, the silicone oil(s) is (are) chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs);
organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group
chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy
groups; and mixtures thereof.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter
Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academic
Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly
chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C,
and more particularly still from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and
preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. They are, for example,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name
Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by
Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile
Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia,
and their mixtures.
IP-Q DELHI1I-12.-2815. 1.7 :21'
25
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone®
FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, of formula:
, — D " - D DT-D'—i
CH3 ' ' CH 3
w i t h D " : — S i - O — withf)'- - S i - O -
CH3 CflH. 17
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic
polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the
mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(2,2,2',2',3,3'-
hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane.
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 2 to 9
silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5><10"6
m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular
under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones
coming within this category are also described in the paper published
in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd &
Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".
Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes.
These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups (INCI name
dimethicone). The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C
according to Standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Mention may be made, among these polydialkylsiloxanes,
without implied limitation, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils
sold by Rhodia, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia;
Ig.-I2-201.S- 17-21
26
- the oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a
viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s;
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF
series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes possessing
dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol
(CTFA), such as oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.
The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance
with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in
their structure one or more organofunctional group(s) attached via a
hydrocarbon-based group.
The organomodified silicone oils may be polydiarylsiloxanes,
in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes
functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear
and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from lxlO"5
to 5xl0'2 m2/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be
mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhoddrsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the
products PN1000 and PH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023,
SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Mention may also be made, among the organomodified
silicones, of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products
sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee or
the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or
IPO;- DELHI iS~l.Z-20>iS 17:21
27
939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are,
in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxylated groups,
- hydoxylated groups.
The silicone oil(s) is (are) preferably chosen from dimethicone,
dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
The amount of silicone oil(s), when they are present in the
composition according to the present invention, is preferably greater
than or equal to 4% by weight, more preferably the amount of silicone
oil(s) ranges from 4 to 10% by weight, and even better from 5 to 8%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Organic solvents
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
may further comprise one or more organic solvent(s).
Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include
linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol;
glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol,
propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl
ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethyiene glycol
monomethyl ether; and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance
benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of solvent(s), when they are present in the
composition according to the present invention, preferably ranges from
0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
is advantageously aqueous and comprises water in an amount
preferably ranging from 30 to 95% by weight, more preferentially from
50 to 90% by weigh, and better still from 60 to 85% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
1FQ -OEt-HI 1.8-12--2:813 17-
28
Additives
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention
may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the
compounds of the invention.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention,
mention may be made of fatty substances different from vegetable oils,
mineral oils and silicone oils; cationic. anionic, non-ionio or
amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof; antidandruff agents; antiseborrhoea
agents; agents for preventing hair loss and/or for
promoting hair regrowth; vitamins and provitamins including
panthenol; sunscreens; mineral or organic pigments; sequestrants;
plasticizers; solubilizers; acidifying agents; opacifiers or nacreous
agents; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; fragrances and preserving agents.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to
select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the
advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition
according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely
affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for
each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
Another objet of the present invention relates to a method of
cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in which a composition, as
described above, is applied on said keratin fibres.
The present invention also relates to a method for conditioning
keratin fibres, especially the hair, which consists in applying to the
said keratin fibres, in particular the hair, an effective amount of a
composition as described above.
The composition is preferably applied as a pre-wash product, as
a leave-on product or both.
When the composition is used as a pre-wash product, the leaveon
time may range from a few seconds to overnight application.
After an optional leave-on time, the composition may be
removed by rinsing.
IPQ DELHI 1S.-12.-2B1S 3,7
29
Generally, the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin
fibres may range from a few seconds to the next wash. Preferably, the
leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibres ranges from 5
seconds to 60 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, and
better still from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres,
especially human keratin fibres such as the hair.
The present invention also relates to the use of a composition
as described above for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human
keratin fibres, such as the hair.
In the present invention, the term "keratin fibres" denotes
human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
The following example serves to illustrate the invention
without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the
amounts are given as mass percentages of active material relative to
the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLE 1
The following composition A according to the invention was
prepared from the ingredients indicated, in percentage by mass, in the
table below.
Polyacrylamide & C13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7
(SEPIGEL 305 - SEPPIC)
Plant oils (Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, Helianthus
annuus (sunflower) seed oil, Argania spinosa kernel
oil)
Mineral oil
A
2.2%
(0.88% am)
1.2%
10%
H-X. 1 a - 12 - 2.B£5 1J *• 2:
30
EXAMPLE 2
1. Compositions
The following composition Al (invention) and Bl, B2 and B3
(comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated, in
percentage by mass, in the table below.
XPO: QEUstX. 18--X2-2.8'S:5-
31
2. Application
The composition Al thus obtained has been tested on the hair
of 300 women.
During application, the texture of composition Al made it easy
and pleasant to use
After application, the hair showed good shine and lightness (no
dull effect), and was easy to comb leading thus to good styling effects.
3. Comparative evaluation
Compositions Al (invention) and Bl, B2 and B3 (comparative)
were then tested through a sliding test.
0.15g of each composition Al, Bl, B2 and B3 were applied on
swatches (lg and 27cm) of natural hair.
After an overnight application, the swatches were washed with
a shampoo (DOP®), rinsed and dried. The sliding force of each swatch
was then evaluated through the dry sliding test.
A movable swatch, attached to a sliding bench, was caused to
move in a horizontal rectilinear manner between two other fixed
swatches. The force needed to make the swatch to slide between the 2
others was measured with the aid of an electronic gauge linked to a
driving arm. The measurement was made from roots to tips.
The average sliding force (on 6 swatches) was calculated and
the evolution of the sliding force was recorded to quantify the surface
state (homogeneous or not), along the fibre. The lower the sliding
force, the better the cosmetic properties.
4. Results
The average sliding force obtained after application of
composition Al or of each comparative composition (Bl, B2 and B3)
is mentioned in the table below.
XP-&- BELLM-I-- 1B--1.Z-2B1S- i:
32
The results show that the sliding force of composition Al,
comprising a particular blend of vegetable and mineral oils, is
significantly lower than the sliding force of the comparative
compositions Bl, B2 and B3.
In other words, the composition according to the invention
confers better cosmetic properties to the hair, than compositions
lacking vegetable oil.

claim
1. Cosmetic composition comprising:
- one or more thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units,
- one or more vegetable oil(s), in an amount greater than or equal to
0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and
- one or more hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral origin, in an amount
greater than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
2. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim,
wherein the thickening polymer(s), comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units, is (are) chosen from:
(a) acrylic associative thickeners,
(b) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers,
(c) crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (Ci-C6)alkyl
acrylate,
(d) non-ionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically
unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type,
(e) ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium
acrylate and of acrylamide,
(f) (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers and
copolymers,
(g) crosslinked methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-Chalkylammonium
homopolymers and copolymers, and
(h) mixtures thereof.
3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units is (are) chosen from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-
C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers and copolymers.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylic and/or
methacrylic units is (are) chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-
methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers, preferably from crosslinked
sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymers, crosslinked
ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymers,
crosslinked acrylamide/ sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane
sulfonate copolymers, acrylamido-2-methyl propane
IPQ..DE.LHX 18--12-281.S IT'
34
sulfonate/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylamido-2-methyl propane
sulfonate/vinylformamide copolymers, acrylamido-2-methyI propane
sulfonate/sodium acrylate copolymers, acrylamido-2-methyl propane
sulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers and mixtures thereof, and
more preferably from crosslinked acrylamide/ sodium acrylamido-2-
methyl propane sulfonate copolymers.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the amount of thickening polymer(s) comprising
acrylic and/or methacrylic units ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and
preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the vegetable oil(s) is (are) chosen from oils of plant
origin containing one or more ester(s) of glycerol and fatty acids
having a C6-C3o alkyl chain, preferably a C8-C22 alkyl chain and more
preferentially a Cio-Cu alkyl chain.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the vegetable oil(s) is (are) chosen from coconut oil,
sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, argan oil and mixtures thereof.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the amount of vegetable oil(s) ranges from 0.8 to 10%
by weight, and preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, wherein the hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral origin is
(are) chosen from C6-C32 liquid hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof,
and preferably from liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum and mixtures
thereof.
10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, wherein the amount of hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral
origin ranges from 4 to 15% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 13%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, wherein the total amount of vegetable oil(s) and of
hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral origin is greater than or equal to 5% by
weight, preferably the total amount of vegetable oil(s) and of
hydrocarbon oil(s) of mineral origin ranges from 5 to 25% by weight,
XPO; DELHI i S - 1 2 - 2 0 1 5
35
and more preferentially from .6 to 20% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or
more silicone oil(s).
13. Cosmetic composition according to claim 12, wherein the
silicone oil(s) is (are) chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially
polydimethylsiloxanes; organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at
least one functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) groups,
amino groups and alkoxy groups; and mixtures thereof.
14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 12 or
13, wherein the silicone oil(s) is (are) chosen from dimethicone,
dimethiconol, cyclopentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 12 to
14, wherein the amount of silicone oil(s) is greater than or equal to 4%
by weight, preferably the amount of silicone oil(s) ranges from 4 to
10% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
16. Method of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, wherein a
cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims is
applied on said keratin fibres.
17. Method according to Claim 16, wherein the cosmetic
composition is applied as a pre-wash product, as a leave-on product or
both.
18. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15
for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such
as the hair.