DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
comprising one or more particular non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes
comprising at least one fatty chain, one or more oxyethylenated
polymers and one or more fatty alcohols.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process of
keratin materials, and particularly a method for conditioning keratin
fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, using this composition.
Many people are unsatisfied with the way their hair looks, and
have difficulty in styling it. Hair is generally damaged and embrittled
by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad
weather, but also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as
brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or
relaxing.
Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over
time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas.
Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to
use care compositio ns that condition the hair appropriately, giving it
satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of smoothness,
sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good
disentangling properties.
These hair care compositions may be, for example,
conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks or sera, and may be
in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less
thick. These compositions may be rinsed-out or leave-in compositions.
These compositions generally comprise a combination of
cationic conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants, cationic
polymers, silicones and/or fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, in
order to give the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in
terms of softness, smoothness and suppleness.
However, such conditioning agents, and in particular fatty
alcohols, often have the drawback of making the hair very lank and
3
heavy, which leads to the phenomenon commonly known as the "dull
effect". In other words, fatty alcohols become deposited in a large
amount on the hair, which has the consequence of making the hair
lank, oily and dull.
Nevertheless, removal or reduction of these fatty materials
decreases the conditioning effects, and thus the cosmetic properties of
the hair.
Most of these compositions also comprise silicones. Indeed,
these compounds are known to improve the cosmetic properties of
hair, especially in terms of smoothness and flexibility (as shown in JP
48(1973)-19941, JP 56(1986)-92808, and US 5 374 421). However,
several disadvantages remain. For instance, hair treated with these
compositions remains lank and sticky, and may present a poor
combability.
Therefore, there is a real need to develop compositions that do
not have the drawbacks described above, i.e. which are able to
improve the cosmetic properties of the hair, especially in terms of wet
and dry combability, suppleness, smoothness, manageability and shine,
without overloading the hair, or leading to a greasy feel or appearance.
The Applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition,
comprising one or more particular non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes, one
or more oxyethylenated polymers in presence of fatty alcohols, makes
it possib le to achieve the objectives outlined above.
In particular, it has been found that hair treated with such a
combination is less lank and heavy while the cosmetic properties are
improved. The hair is also easily combed, leading to a better
manageability.
Thus, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
comprising:
- one or more non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes comprising at least one
alkyl chain having at least 12 carbon atoms,
- one or more oxyethylenated polymers, and
- one or more fatty alcohols.
4
The composition of the present invention is able to improve the
cosmetic properties of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin
fibres such as the hair, especially in terms of shine, softness,
smoothness and suppleness while at same time giving the hair a good
wet and dry combability, as well as an improved manageability.
The hair is not overloaded, remains light and has no greasy
appearance and feel. The composition is also non sticky on hands with
a smooth glide feel on hand.
The invention also relates to a method for conditioning keratin
fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, by applying the
cosmetic composition of the invention on said keratin fibres.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the
invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description
and the example that follows.
In the description that follows and unless otherwise ind icated,
the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in
particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present
description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Polyalkylsiloxanes
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
comprises one or more non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes comprising at
least one alkyl chain having at least 12 carbon atoms.
According to the present invention, the term “non-amino
polyalkylsiloxane” denotes any polyalkylsiloxane that does not contain
any primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, or a quaternar y
ammonium group.
The polyalkylsiloxanes, which can be used in the composition
according to the invention, may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or
gums.
The non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes suitable for the present
invention are preferentially chosen from the compounds of general
formula (I)
5
R2
R3
Si O
R3
R3
Si O
R3
R3
Si O
R1 m
R3
Si R2
R3
(I)
wherein,
R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 30
carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of the groups R1 or
R2 comprises at least 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, and more preferentially from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;
R3 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl
radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and
n and m are integers ranging, independently from each other, from 0 to
2000 and whose sum ranges from 1 to 2000;
provided that when R2 comprises less than 12 carbon atoms, m is
greater than or equal to 1.
The non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes in the composition of the
present invention are preferentially chosen from compounds of formula
(I) wherein at least one of the groups R1 or R2 represents a saturated,
linear alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and better
still from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and R3 represents a saturated, linear
alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably, according to a first embodiment, R1 represents a
saturated, linear alkyl radical comprising at least 12 carbon atoms,
more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to
18 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a saturated linear alkyl radical
comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferentially a methyl
group.
Preferably, in a second embodiment, R2 represents a saturated,
linear alkyl radical comprising at least 12 carbon atoms, more
preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 18
carbon atoms, and R1 represents a saturated linear alkyl radical
n
6
comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferentially a methyl
group.
Preferably, R3 represents a saturated, linear alkyl radical
comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferentially R3
represents a methyl group.
Furthermore, the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the
non-amino polyalkylsiloxane preferably ranges from 2000 to 106 , and
more preferentially from 10 000 to 800 000.
More particularly, n ranges from 0 to 999 and m ranges from 1
to 1000, the sum of n and m ranging from 1 to 1000.
Preferably, the sum of n and m ranges from 5 to 800, and more
preferentially from 50 to 750.
The non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes preferentially used in the
present invention are chosen from polyalkylmethylsiloxanes
comprising at least one alkyl chain having at least 12 carbon atoms,
more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to
18 carbon atoms, and even more particularly chosen from cetyl
dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone and mixtures thereof.
Such compounds are for example the commercial products Abil
Wax 9801 (Evonik Goldschmidt) or Dow Corning 2502 cosmetic fluid
(Dow Corning).
The amount of non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes comprising an
alkyl chain of at least 12 carbon atoms, in the composition of the
present invention, advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight,
and more preferentially from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
Oxyethylenated polymers
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
further comprises one or more oxyethylenated polymers.
The oxyethylenated polymers that may be used in the
composition of the invention have preferably a weight-average
molecular mass greater than or equal to 106 . More preferentially, the
weight-average molecular mass ranges from 106 to 6*106, and better
still from 1.5*106 to 4*106.
7
According to the present invention, an oxyethylenated polymer
means a polymer comprising at least one oxyethylenated unit.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the
oxyethylenated polymers are chosen from the compounds of general
formula (II)
H(OCH2CH2)zOH (II)
wherein, z is an integer greater than or equal to 30 000, preferably z
ranges from 30 000 to 120 000, and more preferentially from 40 000 to
95 000.
As oxyethylenated polymer preferably used in the composition
of the invention, mention may be made especially of PEG-45M
(formula (II) wherein z is 45 000) such as the product sold under the
name Polyox WSR N 60 K by the company Amerchol, and of PEG-90M
(formula (II) wherein z is 90 000), and mixtures thereof.
The amount of oxyethylenated polymers, in the composition of
the present invention, advantageously ranges from 0.001 to 1% by
weight, and more preferentially from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty alcohols
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
further comprises one or more fatty alcohols.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty
alcohol” means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
alcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and which is not
oxyalkylenated.
Preferably, the fatty alcohols are solid at room temperature
(25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa). The fatty alcohols
are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formula (III)
R-OH (III)
wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
radical containing from 8 to 30, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon
8
atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and better still
from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
R preferably denotes a linear or branched C8-C30, more
preferentially C16-C22 alkyl or a linear or branched C8-C30, more
preferentially C16-C22 alkenyl group, and better still linear. R may be
substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
Examples of fatty alcohols that may be mentioned include cetyl
alcohol, stear yl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl
alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alco hol and erucyl alcohol,
and mixtures thereof.
The fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols,
which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the
form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
Fatty alcohol mixtures that may be mentioned include
cetylstear yl (or cetearyl) alcohol.
Among all the fatty alcohols that may be used according to the
invention, use is preferably made of one or more fatty alcohols chosen
from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as
cetearyl alcohol.
The amount of fatty alcohols, in the composition of the present
invention, advantageously ranges from 0.05 to 15% by weight,
preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferentially from
0.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Conditioning agents
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
may further comprise one or more conditioning agents, chosen from
cationic surfactants, cationic polymers and mixtures thereof.
Cationic surfactants
The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more cationic
surfactants.
The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is
positively charged when it is contained in the composition according
to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive
9
permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions
in the composition according to the invention.
The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from primary,
seco ndary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or
salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30
hydrocarbon-based chain, and preferably a C12-C22 alkyl chain.
As example of fatty amines, mention may be made of
stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be
mentioned include:
- quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV)
R R
10 8 \ y
N
R 9 R 11
+
X
(IV)
wherein,
R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or
branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an
aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at
least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprises from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that
chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl
sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylar yl sulfonates.
The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such
as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are
chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-
C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl,
(C12-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X- is an anio n
chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1 -
C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylar ylsu lfonates.
10
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), those
that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for
instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts
in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 16 to 22 carbon
atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium,
distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium
benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand,
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt,
stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt,
stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or
stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under
the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly
preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds.
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance, those
of formula (V)
or
the
the
the
the
R
N
13
yC
\ I N'
2
/CH2CH2—N(R15)—CO—R12
2
+
X
(V)
wherein, R12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to
30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13
represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl
group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4
alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group; Xis
an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates,
lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylar ylsulfonates in which the alkyl
and aryl groups each preferably comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms
and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
11
R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl
groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example
from tallow fatty acids, R14 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15
preferably denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for
example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula
(VI)
R
16
R
17
N
R
(CH2))
23
18
R
19
N R 2 1
R
20
++
n
2X-
(VI)
wherein, R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from
16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or
interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen
and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and an
(R16a)(R17a)(R18a)N-(CH2)3 group, R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and
R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen
and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and X- is an
anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates
and methyl sulfates.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available
from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available
from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester
function, such as those of formula (VII)
O
R24 C (OCrH2r)y
(CsH2sO)z R25
+
N (CtH2tO)x R23 XR22
wherein,
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups
dihydroxyalkyl groups;
(VII)
and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or
12
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group R26 C
- groups R27, which are linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is chosen from:
O
- the group R28 C
- groups R29, which are linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based
groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging
from 2 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from
0 to 10;
X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is
0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more
particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or
dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon-based group, it may be long
and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may
have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is an R29 hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably
contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
13
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or
different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear
or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are
equal to 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are
equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or
iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However,
use may be made of methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an
anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any
other anion compatible with the ammonium containing an ester
function.
The anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methyl
sulfate.
Use is made more particularly in the composition according to
the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (VII) wherein:
R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group;
x and y are equal to 1;
z is equal to 0 or 1;
r, s and t are equal to 2;
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group R26 C
- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups;
- a hydrogen atom;
R25 is chosen from:
O
- the group R28 C
- a hydrogen atom;
14
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based
groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
Mention may be made, for example, of the compounds of
formula (VII) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium,
diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,
monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,
triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and
monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or
methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups
preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more
particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When
the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be
identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct
esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an
alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are
optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of
C10-C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterificatio n
of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed b y
quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably
methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) sulfate,
methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol
chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names
Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company
Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the
company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for
example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and
triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
15
Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at
least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554
and US-A-4 137 180.
Use may be made of
behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, provided by Kao
under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester
function contain two ester functions.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one
ester function, which may be used, it is preferred to use
dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.
Cationic polymers
The cosmetic composition may comprise one or more cationic
polymers.
The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer containing
cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to cationic groups,
which are preferably non-siliceous.
The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the
present invention may be chosen from any of those already known per
se for styling the hair, namely, especially, those described in patent
application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2
270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
The preferred cationic polymers that may be used in the
composition according to the invention are chosen from those
containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or
quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer
chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.
The cationic polymers preferably have a weight-average
molecular mass of greater than 105 , preferably greater than 106 and
more preferably of between 106 and 108.
Among the cationic polymers that may be used in accordance
with the invention, mention may be made more particularly of
polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary
ammonium type.
16
The polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and
polyquaternary ammonium type that may be used in the composition
according to the present invention are especially those described in
French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
Among these polymers, mention may be made especially of:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or
methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units
of formulae (VIII), (IX), (X) and (XI) below:
wherein,
R.3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
and preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
R5, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or
a CH3 group,
17
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or
branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon
atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
- R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent an
alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group,
and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
and
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid,
preferably a methosulfate anion or a halide, and better still a chloride
or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more
units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family
of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides
and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with lower (C1 -
C4) alkyls, acr ylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams
such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may
be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as
the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, described, for
example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name
Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba-Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the
name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl
acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under
the name Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example,
Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as
Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail
in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
18
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone
terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713
by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers
sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide
copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100
by the company ISP, and
- crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-
C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained b y
homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized
with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride,
the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an
olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular
methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a
crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion
containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil. This
dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company
Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked
methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer (INCI
name Polyquaternium-37), for example the polymer sold under the
name Cosmedia Ultragel 300 by the company Cognis; or as a
dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester; these dispersions are sold
under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company
Ciba.
(2) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent
alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched
chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or
with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or
quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are
especially described in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
19
(3) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular b y
polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine. These
polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a
diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bisunsaturated
derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine,
a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer
resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is
reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine,
a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a
bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in
proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the
polyaminoamide. These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they
comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be
quaternized. Such polymers are especially described in French patents
2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
(4) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the
condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids
followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be
made, for example, of adipic
acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which
the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably
denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are especially
described in French patent 1 583 363.
Among these derivatives, mention may be made more
particularly of the adipic
acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold
under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(5) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene
polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one
secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from
diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from
3 to 8 carbon atoms. The mole ratio between the polyalkylene
polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the
polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin
20
in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine
group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such
polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961
347.
Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name
Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the
name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of
the adipic acid/epoxypropyl-diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of
dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers
comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to
formula (XII) or (XIII):
(CH2)t CR
'(CH2)k
12 C(R12) CH2
CH2
10
N
CH2 Y-
R
11 (XII)
(CH2)t CR12
'(CH2)k
C(R12) CH2
CH2 /CH2
N
10 (XIII)
wherein, k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R12
denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R10 and R11,
independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1
to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group
preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl
21
group, or R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to
which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or
morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate,
citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or p hosphate. These
polymers are in particular described in French patent 2 080 759 and in
its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.
R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote an
alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made
more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride
homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco
and its homologues of low weight-average molecular weights, and the
copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide
sold under the name Merquat 550.
(7) The quaternary diammonium polymer in particular
containing repeating units corresponding to the formula (XIV):
R R
13 15
N+ A1 N+ B1
R X R X
14 16 (XIV)
wherein,
- R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different,
represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1
to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or
alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute,
with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles
optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or
alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6
alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a
group COOR17D or CONHR17D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a
quaternary ammonium group,
22
- A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20
carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or
unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main
chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur
atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl,
quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which
they are attached, a piperazine ring.
In addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a
group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-,
n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a
linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding
to one of the following formulae:
-(CH2-CH2-O)x -CH2-CH2-,
-[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-,
in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a
defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to
4 representing an average degree of polymerization,
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine
derivative,
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-,
where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or
else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-,
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
These polymers have a number-average molecular mass
generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Polymers of this type are especially described in French patents
2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US
patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462,
23
2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904,
4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.
Use may more particularly be made of polymers that are formed
from repeating units corresponding to formula (XV):
R18 R
20
N+ (CH2)r N+ (CH2)
s
R19 X R 2 1 X
(XV)
wherein, R1 8 , R1 9 , R2 0 and R2 1 , which may be identical or different,
denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon
atoms approximately, r and s are integers ranging from 2 to 20
approximately, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic
acid.
A compound of formula (XV) that is particularly preferred is
that for which R1 8 , R1 9 , R2 0 and R2 1 represent a methyl radical and r =
3, s = 6 and X = Cl, called hexadimethrine chloride in INCI
nomenclature (CTFA).
(8) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers formed especially from
units of formula (XVI):
24 R22 R
N+ (CH2)t NH CO (CH2)u CO NH (CH2)v N+ A
R23 X RX
25 (XVI)
wherein,
- R2 2 , R2 3 , R2 4 and R2 5 , which may be identical or different,
represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl,
β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2 ) pOH group,
where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the
proviso that R2 2 , R2 3 , R2 4 and R2 5 do not simultaneously represent a
hydrogen atom,
24
- t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1
and 6,
- v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X- denotes an anion such as a halide, and
- A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-OCH2-
CH2-.
Such compounds are especially described in patent application
EP-A-122 324.
Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the
products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol®
175, sold by the company Miranol.
(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and/or of
vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names
Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 and Luviquat Excellence by the
company BASF.
(10) Catio nic polysaccharides, preferably catio nic celluloses
and galactomannan gums.
Among cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more
particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternar y
ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose
derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium
monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternar y
ammonium groups are described in French patent 1 492 597. These
polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternar y
ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an
epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
The cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives
grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are
described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl
celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl
celluloses grafted especially with a
methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium,
25
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or
dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
A cationic cellulose copolymer that may especially be
mentioned is Polyquaternium-4, which is a copolymer of
hydroxyethylcellulose and of diallyldimethylammonium chloride.
Mention may also be made of associative celluloses such as
alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses quaternized with C8-C30 fatty chains, such
®
as the product Quatrisoft LM 200 , sold by the company
Amerchol/Dow Chemical (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and the
®
products Crodacel QM (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose
cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL" (C12 alkyl) (INCI name PG-
®
Hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS
(C18 alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium
chloride) sold by the company Croda.
Mention may also be made of other fatty-chain
hydroxyethylcellulose derivatives such as the commercial products
Softcat Polymer SL such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the
company Amerchol/Dow chemical of INCI name Polyquaternium-67.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more
particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar
gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums
modified with a salt such as 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium
chloride are used, for example.
(11) Cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates,
polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers
containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of
polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and
chitin derivatives.
The cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in particular,
chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary ammonium
groups at the end of the chain, or grafted thereon. Their molecular
mass may vary, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in particular
from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention
may be made especially of:
26
- collagen hydrolysates bearing triethylammonium groups, such
as the products sold under the name Quat-Pro E by the company
Maybrook and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Triethonium
Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate,
- collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride
and trimethylstearylammonium chloride groups, which are sold under
the name Quat-Pro S by the company Maybrook and are referred to in
the CTFA dictionary as Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen,
- animal protein hydrolysates bearing
trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the
name Crotein BTA by the company Croda and referred to in the CTFA
dictionary as Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein,
- protein hydrolysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on
the polypeptide chain, the said ammonium groups comprising at least
one alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, inter
alia, of:
- Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
comprise a C12 alkyl group,
- Croquat M, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
comprise C10-C18 alkyl groups,
- Croquat S, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
comprise a C18 alkyl group,
- Crotein Q, in which the quaternary ammonium groups
comprise at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
These various products are sold by the company Croda.
Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example,
those corresponding to the formula (XVII):
CH3
R26 N+ R27 N H A X
CH3
(XVII)
27
wherein, X- is an anion of an organic or mineral acid, A denotes a
protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R26
denotes a lipophilic group comprising up to 30 carbon atoms, R27
represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may
be made, for example, of the products sold by the company Inolex,
under the name Lexein QX 3000, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as
Cocotrimonium Collagen Hydrolysate.
Mention may also be made of quaternized plant proteins such
as wheat, corn or soybean proteins, for instance quaternized wheat
proteins. Mention may be made of those sold by the company Croda
under the names Hydrotriticum WQ or QM, referred to in the CTFA
dictionary as Cocodimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, Hydrotriticum
QL, referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Laurdimonium hydrolysed
wheat protein, or else Hydrotriticum QS, referred to in the CTFA
dictionary as Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.
(12) Polyamines such as Polyquart R H sold by Cognis,
referred to under the name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine
in the CTFA dictionary.
(13) Polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
CH2CHNH2 (A)
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B)
below:
CH2CHNHCOH (B)
In other words, these polymers may be chosen in particular
from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units
derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived
from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers
comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units
corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units
corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to
28
100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to
90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial
hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide.
This hydrolysis may be performed in an acidic or basic
medium.
The weight-average molecular mass of the said polymer,
measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol,
preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from
100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from
2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly
from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally
units of formula (B) are sold especially under the name Lupamin by
the company BASF, for instance, and in a non-limiting manner, the
products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin
1095, Lupamin 9030 and Lupamin 9010.
Preferably, the conditioning agents, in the composition of the
present invention, are chosen from cationic surfactants, and more
preferentially from tertiary fatty amines comprising a C12-C22 alkyl
chain, quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV) and
mixtures thereof.
Better still, the conditioning agents suitable for the present
invention are chosen from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine,
behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
When they are present, the amount of conditioning agents as
described above, in the composition of the present invention,
advantageously ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and more
preferentially from 0.05 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition.
Liquid fatty substances
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
may further comprise one or more fatty substances that are liquid at
29
room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa),
different from the fatty alcohols described above.
The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is
insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric
pressure (1.013*105 Pa) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less
than 1% and even more preferentially of less than 0.1%). They have in
their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least
6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In
addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents
under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance
chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene,
toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
In addition, the liquid fatty substances of the present inventio n
are nonpolyoxyethylenated and nonpolyglycerolated.
The term "oil" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room
temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa).
The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil not containing any
silicon atoms (Si) and the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing
at least one silicon atom.
More particularly, the liquid fatty substances can be chosen
from non-silicone oils such as in particular C6-C16 liquid
hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon
atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or
synthetic origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol
esters other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
It is recalled that the fatty esters and acids more particularly
have at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
hydrocarbon-based group comprising 6 to 30 and better still from 8 to
30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with
one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are
unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three conjugated or
non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
30
As regards the C6-C16 liquid hydrocarbons, they are more
particularly linear, branched or optionally cyclic, and are preferably
alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane,
cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as
isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
The linear or branched liquid hydrocarbons of mineral or
synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably
chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly,
mineral oil, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as
Parleam , and mixtures thereof.
By way of hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, mention
may be made of perhydrosqualene.
The triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably
chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30
carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or
alternatively, more particularly from those present in plant oils, for
instance coconut oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil,
grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia
oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil or
synthetic caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by
the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names
®
Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and
mixtures thereof.
Fluoro oils that may be mentioned include
perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane,
® ®
sold under the names Flutec PC1 and Flutec PC3 by the company
BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane;
perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and
tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 and PF 5060
by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name
Foralkyl by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and
nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as
4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052
by the company 3M.
31
As regards the liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters
advantageously other than the triglycerides mentioned above and nonsilicone
waxes, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated
or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched C3-C26 aliphatic monoacids
or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear C1-C26 or branched
C3-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon
number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more
advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl
behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-
C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate;
oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl
octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocet yl
laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl
isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl
stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate;
octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate;
ethyl and isopropyl palmitates; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl
palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-
octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl
stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl
laurate, and mixtures thereof.
Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22
dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of
mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or
pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate;
diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl
adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;
octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;
propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridec yl
erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate;
32
glycer yl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate;
propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glyco l distearates,
and mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters
and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled
that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based
compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without
aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon
atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or
polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include
sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose,
fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives
thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for
instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from
the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars
described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are
unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three conjugated or
non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from
mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates,
myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates,
caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular,
oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and
in particular mo no- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleopalmitate, -
linoleate, -linolenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, of glucose or of
methylglucose.
33
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under
the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a
methylglucose dioleate.
Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty
acid that may also be mentioned include:
- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90,
F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose
palmitate/stearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and
triester, from 6 1% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester,
from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45%
monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39%
monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose
monolaurate;
- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for
example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate
formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-triester-polyester;
- the sucrose mono-dipalmitate/stearate sold by the company
Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.
The liquid fatty substances present in the composition can also
be chosen from silicone oils different from the non-amino
polyalkylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl chain having at least
12 carbon atoms.
The silicones oils that may be used in the composition of the
present invention are volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or
branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified by organic
groups, having a viscosity from 5*10- 6 to 2.5 m²/s at 25°C, and
preferably 1*10-5 to 1 m²/s.
Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes different from the non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes
comprising at least one alkyl chain having at least 12 carbon atoms, in
particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), that do not comprise any
alkyl chain having at least 12 carbon atoms, and organomodified
polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from
amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.
34
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter
Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
They may be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silico ne oils are more particularly
chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C,
and more particularly still from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and
preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name
Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by
Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile
Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia,
and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone®
FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic
polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the
mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of
octamethylc yclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-
hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9
silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×10-6
m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular
under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones
coming within this category are also described in the paper published
35
in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd &
Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".
Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes
that do not comprise any alkyl chain having at least 12 carbon atoms.
These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity
of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to Standard ASTM 445
Appendix C.
Mention may be made, among these polydialkylsiloxanes,
without implied limitation, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil®
oils sold by Rhodia, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold b y Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning,
such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s;
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of
the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having
dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol
(CTFA), such as the oils of series 48 from the company Rhodia.
The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance
with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in
their structure one or more organofunctional group(s) attached via a
hydrocarbon-based group.
The organomodified silicone oils may be polydiarylsiloxanes,
in particular polyd iphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes
functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear
and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10-5
to 5×10- 2 m2 /s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be
mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
36
- Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from
Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow
Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product
PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the
products PN1000 and PH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF
1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Mention may also be made, among the organomodified
silicones, of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the
products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by
Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow
Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted
amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxylated groups,
- hydoxylated groups.
Preferably, the fatty substances, liquid at room temperature
(25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa), different from the
fatty alcohols, are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons of mineral or
synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglycerides of
plant origin and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from
mineral oil, coconut oil and mixtures thereof.
When they are present, the amount of the liquid fatty
substances, different from the fatty alcohols, advantageously ranges
from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.1 to 10%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional surfactants
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
may further comprise one or more additional surfactants different from
the cationic surfactants described above.
37
The additional surfactants can be chosen from anionic
surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic
surfactants and mixtures thereof.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising,
as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic
groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2 , SO3H,
SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO3 -, H2PO2, HPO2 , PO2 , POH
and PO .
As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the
composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl
sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates,
alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates,
alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin
sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates,
alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates,
acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-(C1-
C4)alkyl N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and of
polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside
uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether
carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts; and the
corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and
acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned)
generally comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group
generally denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably
comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic
acids can be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosidecitrates,
C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl
poly glycoside-sulfosuccinates.
When the anionic surfactants are in salt form, they may be
chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt
and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in
38
particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the
magnesium salt.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be
mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and
triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or
triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-
amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and
tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal
salts, in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.
The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild
anionic surfactants, i.e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function.
Mention may in particular be made, as regards the mild anionic
surfactants, of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also
mixtures thereof:
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids;
- polyo xyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids;
- polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in
particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
- alkyl-D-galactoside uronic acids;
- acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and
- alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
Use may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl
ether carboxylic acids, for instance lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5
OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be
present in the composition of the present invention may especially be
seco ndary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally
quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain
containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives
containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate,
sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
39
Mention may be made in particular of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines,
sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines or (C8-
C20) alkyl amido(C6-C8) alkyl sulfobetaines.
Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives,
optionally quaternized, that may be used, as defined above, mention
may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (A1), (A2)
and (A3) below:
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N (Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO) (A1)
wherein,
Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-
COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl
or undecyl group,
Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
and
R’a-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (A2)
wherein,
B represents -CH2CH2OX',
B' represents -(CH2)z-Y', with z = 1 or 2,
X' represents the -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2-COOH or -
CH2CH2-COOZ’ group, or a hydrogen atom,
Y' represents -COOH, -COOZ’, or the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or
CH2-CHOH-SO3Z’,
Z’ represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth
metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an
organic amine,
R’a represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R’a-COOH
which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil,
or an alkyl group, especially a C17 group, and its iso form, or an
unsaturated C17 group.
40
These compounds of formula (A1) or (A2) are classified in the
CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium
cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium
caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium
cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium
caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate,
lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the
cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name
Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Ra’’-NHCH(Y’’)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n ’-N(Rd)(Re ) (A3)
wherein,
Y'' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ'', -CH2-CH(OH)SO3 H or the
group -CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'';
Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl or
hydroxyalkyl radical;
Z'' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion
derived from an organic amine;
Ra'' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-COOH
which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1
to 3.
Among the compounds of formula (A3 ) , mention may be made
of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name
sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company
Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
Among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactants, it is preferred to use (C8-C20) alkylbetaines such as
cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20) alkylamido(C3-C8) alkylbetaines such as
cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially,
41
the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from
cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
The nonionic surfactants that may be present in the
composition of the present invention are especially described, for
example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by
Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are
especially chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty α-diols, fatty (C1-
C20)alkylphenols and fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated,
propoxylated or glycerolated and containing at least one fatty chain
comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of
ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially
from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging
especially from 1 to 30.
Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide
and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty amides
preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated
fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups, and in
particular from 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan
containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of
sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, (C6-
C24)alkylpolyglycosides, oxyethylenated plant oils, N-(C6-
C24)alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-
C14)alkylamine oxides or N-(C10-C14)acylaminopropylmorpholine
oxides.
Preferably, the additional surfactants are chosen from
amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and
mixtures thereof.
Cosmetically acceptable medium
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
advantageously comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
The term “cosmetically acceptable medium” means a medium
that is compatible with human keratin fibres, such as the hair.
The cosmetically acceptable medium can be formed from water
or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable
42
solvents chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol and
isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2 -butoxyethanol,
propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene
glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition, according to the present invention,
is advantageously aqueous and comprises water in an amount
preferably ranging from 30 to 98% by weight, more preferentially from
50 to 95% by weigh, and better still from 60 to 90% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention
may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the
compounds of the invention.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention,
mention may be made of solid fatty substances different from fatty
alcohols such as waxes, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or
mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents
for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins
and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic
pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents,
mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners
different from oxyethylenated polymers, opacifiers or nacreous agents,
antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents.
Needless to sa y, a person skilled in the art will take care to
select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the
advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition
according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely
affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for
each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
Another objet of the present invention relates to a cosmetic
treatment process of keratin materials, in which a composition, as
43
described above, is applied on said keratin materials, eventually
followed by a leave-on time and/or a rinsing step.
The present invention also relates to a method for conditioning
keratin fibres, especially the hair, which consists in applying to the
said keratin fibres, in particular the hair, an effective amount of a
composition as described above.
The composition can be used as a pre-wash product, as a leaveon
product or both.
When the composition is used as a pre-wash product, the leaveon
time may range from a few seconds to overnight application.
After an optional leave-on time, the composition may be
removed by rinsing.
Generally, the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin
fibres may range from a few seconds to 12 hours, preferably from 5
seconds to 60 minutes and even better still from 10 seconds to 15
minutes, or more better from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin
materials, specially keratin fibres such as hair.
In the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” denotes
human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
The example that follows serves to illustrate the invention
without, however, being limiting in nature.
In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, the
amounts are given as mass percentages of active material relative to
the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
1. Composition
The following composition (A) was prepared from the
ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are
44
expressed as percent by weight of active matter, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
2. Application
The composition (A) thus obtained was then used as a leave-on
product and was applied on shoulder length hair showing dry damaged
corresponding to a sensitization of 3-3.5 on the sensitization scale.
The test was repeated on 6 person and the following properties were
observed.
During application, composition (A) provided a good melting
sensation and showed a very good distribution from the roots to the
ends.
After application, the hair showed a slippery feel (no sticky
feel), a very good ease of passing fingers, good smoothness and
suppleness, good combing and was easy to detangle.
3. Instrumental evaluation
Composition (A) was then tested through a sliding test, on dry
hair.
Swatches ( l g and 27cm) of medium bleached Indian hair were
washed with a shampoo, rinsed and dried.
45
Composition (A) was then applied on the swatches according to
a ratio of 0.15g of composition per gram of hair. After 5 minutes, the
swatches were dried and tested.
Composition (A) was compared to a commercial rinse off
conditioner (rinse off conditioners are known to be high on
conditioning attributes like softness and smoothness) and to a placebo.
The test was done on 6 swatches for each composition.
A movable swatch, attached to a sliding bench, was caused to
move in a horizontal rectilinear manner between two other fixed
swatches. The force needed to make the swatch to slide between the 2
others was measured with the aid of an electronic gauge linked to a
driving arm. The measurement was made from roots to tips.
The average force (of 6 swatches) was calculated and the
evolution of the sliding force was recorded to quantify the surface
state (homogeneous or not), along the fibre. The lower the sliding
force, the better the cosmetic properties.
The results are assembled in the table below.
The results show that the sliding force of composition (A),
leave-on product prepared according to the present invention, is closed
to the sliding force of the commercial rinse off conditioner. In
addition, the sliding force of composition (A) is significantly lower
than the sliding force of the placebo.
46
Therefore, the composition according to the invention confers
very good conditioning properties to the hair.
Example 2
1. Composition
The following composition (B) was prepared from the
ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are
expressed as percent by weight of active matter, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
2. Application
The composition (B) thus obtained was then used as a prewash
composition.
3. Instrumental evaluation
Composition (B) was then tested through a sliding test, on wet
and dry hair.
Swatches ( l g and 27cm) of medium bleached Indian hair were
washed with a shampoo, rinsed and dried.
47
Composition (B) was then applied overnight on the swatches
according to a ratio of 0.15g of composition per gram of hair. The
following day, the swatches were washed with a shampoo, rinsed and
dried.
The process was repeated three times, resulting in three
overnight applications. The swatches were then tested.
Composition (B) was compared to a composition (C),
containing 100% of coconut oil, and to a composition (D), containing
marketed almond oil. The test was done on 6 swatches for each
composition.
Following the protocol described above, the average force (of 6
swatches) was calculated and the evolution of the sliding force was
recorded to quantify the surface state (homogeneous or not), along the
fibre. The lower the sliding force, the better the cosmetic properties.
The results are assembled in the table below.
The sliding force of composition (B), prewash product prepared
according to the present invention, is lower than the sliding force of
compositions (C) and (D), which contain usual oils.
48
Therefore, the composition according to the invention confers
better conditioning properties to the hair than compositions (C) and
(D).
The hair is more nourished and smoother when treated with
composition (B), in wet and dry state.

We claim:
1. Cosmetic composition comprising :
- one or more non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes comprising at least one
alkyl chain having at least 12 carbon atoms,
- one or more oxyethylenated polymers, and
- one or more fatty alcohols.
2. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim,
wherein the non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes are chosen from the
compounds of general formula (I)
wherein,
R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 30
carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of the groups R1 or
R2 comprises at least 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, and more preferentially from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;
R3 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl
radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and
n and m are integers ranging, independently from each other, from 0 to
2000 and whose sum ranges from 1 to 2000;
provided that when R2 comprises less than 12 carbon atoms, m is
greater than or equal to 1.
3. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes are chosen from
polyalkylmethylsiloxanes comprising at least one alkyl chain having at
n
50
least 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more
preferentially from 16 to 18 carbon atoms, and better still chosen from
cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone and mixtures thereof.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the amount of non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes ranges
from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the oxyethylenated polymers are chosen from the
compounds of general formula (II)
H(OCH2CH2)zOH (II)
wherein z is an integer greater than or equal to 30 000, preferably z
ranges from 30 000 to 120 000, and more preferentially from 40 000 to
95 000.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the oxyethylenated polymers have a weight-average
molecular mass greater than or equal to 106 , preferably ranging from
106 to 6*106, and more preferentially ranging from 1.5*106 to 4*106.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the amount of oxyethylenated polymers ranges from
0.001 to 1% by weight, and preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the fatty alcohols are chosen from the compounds of
general formula (III)
R-OH (III)
51
wherein R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30
carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
better still from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, wherein the fatty alcohols are solid at room temperature
(25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*10 Pa), and are preferably
chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, wherein the amount of fatty alcohols ranges from
0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and
more preferentially from 0.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total
weight of the composition.
11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or
more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from :
primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally
poly oxy alky lenated,
- quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV)
- +
R 8 \ / R 10
N
R9 R
11
X
(IV)
wherein,
R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or
branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an
aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at
least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprises from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; and
X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that
chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl
sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylar yl sulfonates,
52
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline,
- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI)
(VI)
wherein, Ri6 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from
16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or
interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen
and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and an
( R l 6 a ) ( R l 7 a ) ( R l 8 a ) N - ( C H 2 ) 3 grOUp, Ri 6 a , Rl7a, Rl8a, R l 8 , R l 9 , R20 a nd
R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen
and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and X" is an
anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates
and methyl sulfates,
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of
formula (VII)
V , v n )
wherein,
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or
dihydroxyalkyl groups;
R23 is chosen from:
O
- the group 26
- groups R27, which are linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is chosen from:
53
O
- the group R28 C
- groups R29, which are linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based groups,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based
groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging
from 2 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from
0 to 10;
X- is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion;
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is
0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 11, wherein the
cationic surfactants are chosen from tertiary fatty amines comprising a
C12-C22 alkyl chain, quaternary ammonium salts of general formula
(IV) and mixtures thereof, and preferably from stearamidopropyl
dimethylamine, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride and
mixtures thereof.
13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or
more cationic polymers.
14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or
more one or more fatty substances liquid at room temperature (25°C)
and at atmospheric pressure (1.013*105 Pa), different from the fatty
alcohols.
54
15. Cosmetic composition according to claim 14, wherein the
liquid fatty substances are chosen C6-Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid
hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils
of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fluoro oils,
liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides,
and mixtures thereof, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing
more than 16 carbon atoms, triglycerides of plant origin and mixtures
thereof, and more preferentially from mineral oil, coconut oil and
mixtures thereof.
16. Cosmetic treatment process of keratin materials, in which a
composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied on
keratin materials, eventually followed by a leave-on time and/or a
rinsing step.
17. Method for conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular
human keratin fibres, such as the hair, wherein a composition
according to any one of claims 1 to 15 is applied on said keratin
fibres.