Cosmetic composition comprising silica aerogel particles and a clay
The present patent application relates to a composition for topical application comprising
hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and at least one clay, and to the use of said
composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for or
treating keratinous substances.
Clays are commonly used in cosmetics for their properties of purifying, cleaning and
absorbing excess grease or impurities deposited on the skin.
Furthermore, by virtue of their regenerating and healing qualities and, for some clays,
their smoothing or tightening effects, they are also of great advantage in anti-aging
treating care products.
Clays are used in particular in products such as purifying masks, cleansing products or in
products for caring for the skin, in particular for greasy skin.
However, the introduction of clays into cosmetic formulations leads to failings during use,
in particular the formation of little balls during application of the product and/or after
drying and/or penetration of the product into the skin.
This failing is totally unacceptable to the user, even in the case of a cleansing product or
of a cleansing mask, as application is not uniform or pleasant, given this pilling effect on
application or during removal of the product.
This failing furthermore conflicts with the notion of cleansing/purifying the skin. This is
because it gives a "dirty" impression on the skin.
The Applicant Company has found, surprisingly, that the combination of a silica aerogel
with clays makes it possible to overcome the disadvantages related to the use of clays
and to obtain products exhibiting a uniform application and the absence of a "pilling"
effect.
Thus, a subject matter of the present invention is a composition for topical application
comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and at least one clay.
As the composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or
superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say
a medium compatible with all keratinous substances, such as the skin, nails, mucous
membranes and keratinous fibers (such as the hair or eyelashes).
The composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain a uniform and pleasant
application of the product without the appearance of little balls at the various stages of
use of the product, whether during application, during drying or during removal, when a
cleansing product is concerned (such as a wash-off mask).
Another subject matter of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of
keratinous substances which consists in applying, to the keratinous substances, a
composition as defined above.
Another subject matter of the invention is the use of said composition in the cosmetic or
dermatological field and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin
of the body or face or for caring for the hair.
In that which follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and,
unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range.
Hydrophobic silica aerogels
Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid
component of a silica gel with air.
They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried,
usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being
supercritical C0 2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores
and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described
in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press,
1990.
The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific
surface per unit of weight (Sw ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g, preferably from 600 to
1200 m2/g and better still from 600 to 800 m2/g, and a size, expressed as the volumeaverage
diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 m h , better still from 1 to 1000 m h ,
preferably from 1 to 100 m h , in particular from 1 to 30 m h , more preferably from 5 to
25 m h , better still from 5 to 20 m h and even better still from 5 to 15 m h .
According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the
present invention have a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging
from 1 to 30 m h , preferably from 5 to 25 m h , better still from 5 to 20 m h and even better
still from 5 to 15 m h .
The specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption
method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal
of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds
to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface corresponds
to the total specific surface of the particles under consideration.
The sizes of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a
commercial particle size analyzer of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are
processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for
isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of nonspherical particles,
an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by
Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New
York, 1957.
According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used
in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (Sw ) ranging from 600
to 800 m2/g and a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from
5 to 20 m h and even better still from 5 to 15 m h .
The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention can advantageously exhibit a
packed density (p) ranging from 0.04 g/cm3 to 0.10 g/cm3 and preferably from 0.05 g/cm3
to 0.08 g/cm3.
In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the packed density, can be
assessed according to the following protocol:
40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is
then placed on the Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is
subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 packing actions (this operation is repeated
until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); and then the
final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The
packed density is determined by the ratio w/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed
in cm3 and w in g).
According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the
present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of volume Sv ranging from 5 to
60 m2/cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2/cm3 and better still from 15 to 40 m2/cm3.
The specific surface per unit of volume is given by the relationship: Sv = Sw x p; where p
is the packed density, expressed in g/cm3, and Sw is the specific surface per unit of
weight, expressed in m2/g, as defined above.
Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil
absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from
6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
The absorption capacity measured at the wet point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the
amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a
homogeneous paste.
It is measured according to the "wet point" method or method of determination of oil
uptake of a powder described in the standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount
of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder
by measurement of the wet point, described below:
An amount w = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl
isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder,
mixing is carried out using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates
of oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at
a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is
stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread
over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed
in ml) of oil used is then noted.
The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/w.
The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels,
preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate) aerogels.
The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean any silica, the surface of which is
treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as
alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as
hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups
Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface
by silylation, reference may be made to the document US 7 470 725.
Use will in particular be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the
surface with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica).
Mention may be made, as hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the
invention, for example, of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica
silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which exhibit an average size of approximately
1000 microns and a specific surface per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2/g.
Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel
TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 , Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova
Aerogel MT 1200.
Use will more particularly be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI
name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which exhibit an average size
ranging from 5 to1 5 microns and a specific surface per unit of weight ranging from 600 to
800 m2/g.
The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can be present in the composition according to
the invention in a content as active material ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight,
preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight and more
preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Clays
Clays are products which are already well known per se and which are described, for
example, in the publication Mineralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillere,
S. Henin and M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included
herein by way of reference.
Mention may be made, among clays, as examples, of clays of the family of the smectites,
such as laponite and montmorillonite, of the family of the kaolinites, such as kaolinite,
dickite or nacrite, optionally modified clays of the family of halloysite, donbassite,
antigorite, berthierine or pyrophyllite, montmorillonites, beidellite, vermiculites, talc,
stevensite, hectorites, bentonites, saponites, chlorites, sepiolite and illite.
The clay or clays present in the composition of the invention can be natural or synthetic.
Natural clay is a sedimentary rock in large part composed of specific minerals, silicates,
generally, of aluminum. Kaolin is thus a natural clay.
Clays can also be chemically modified by various compounds, such as acrylic acids,
polysaccharides (for example carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations.
Use is preferably made, in the context of the present invention, of clays which are
cosmetically compatible with and acceptable to the hair, skin and/or scalp.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the clay employed is chosen
from kaolinite, montmorillonites, saponites, laponites, bentonites, and in particular
hectorites, and illites. Use will more particularly be made of mixtures of clays, and natural
clays.
Mention may be made, as natural clay, of green clays, in particular rich in illite; clays rich
in montmorillonite, known under the name of fuller's earth, or such as bentonites, or also
white clays rich in kaolinite. Mention may in particular be made, as bentonites, of those
sold under the names "Bentone 38 VCG", "Bentone Gel CAO V", "Bentone 27 V" and
"Bentone Gel MIO V" by Elementis.
Montmorillonites and smectites are hydrated aluminum and/or magnesium silicates.
Mention may be made, as example, of the montmorillonite sold under the name Gel
White H by Rockwood Additives and of the purified smectite sold under the name
Veegum Granules by Vanderbilt. Mention may also be made of the montmorillonite sold
under the name Kunipia G4 by Kunimine and the sepiolite Pangel S9 sold by Tolsa.
Mention may be made, as examples of kaolinites, of the kaolins sold under the names
Coslin C 100 by BASF Personal Care Ingredients or Kaolin Supreme by Imerys.
Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising aluminum silicate. The crystal
structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of
silica. Mention may be made, as examples, of micronized magnesium silicate with a
particle size of 5 microns, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or the talcs
sold under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, J 68 BC by US
Cosmetics (Miyoshi), Luzenac 00 and Luzenac Pharma M by Luzenac and Talc JA-46R
by Asada Milling.
Mention may be made, as saponite, which belongs to the family of the montmorillonites,
of synthetic saponite, in particular that sold by Kunimine under the Sumecton® name.
Mention may be made, as synthetic laponite, of LAPONITE® XLG, sold by Rockwood.
The clay or clays are present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an
amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight and
especially from 1% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention can be provided in various formulation forms
conventionally used for topical applications and in particular in the form of dispersions of
the serum type, of emulsions with a liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type,
obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O),
or of suspensions or emulsions with a soft, semisolid or solid consistency of the cream or
gel type, or alternatively of multiple emulsions (W/O/W or 0/W/O), of microemulsions, or
of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared
according to the usual methods.
In addition, the compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluid
and can have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a
serum, a paste or a foam.
According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention is
provided in the form of an anhydrous composition.
According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention is
provided in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a continuous oily phase and an
aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase or in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion
comprising a continuous aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous
phase.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is provided in the
form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type (direct emulsion).
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" is understood to mean
a composition comprising a content of less than or equal to 1% by weight of water,
preferably of less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said
composition, indeed even devoid of water. If appropriate, such small amounts of water
may in particular be introduced by ingredients of the composition, which may comprise
residual amounts thereof.
Fatty phase
According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention
comprises at least one fatty phase.
When the composition is provided in the form of an anhydrous composition, the
proportion of the fatty phase can range, for example, from 30% to 99% by weight and
preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
When the composition is provided in the form of an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty
phase can range, for example, from 1% to 80% by weight and preferably from 5% to 40%
by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
This indicated amount does not comprise the content of lipophilic surfactants.
Within the meaning of the invention, the fatty phase includes any fatty substance which is
liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or which is solid
at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty
compound, which are present in said composition.
The fatty phase of the composition in accordance with the invention generally comprises
at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil.
The term "oil" is understood to mean any fatty substance which is in liquid form at
ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
The volatile or nonvolatile oils can be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or
vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or their mixtures.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is understood to mean
an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil mainly comprising hydrogen and
carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
Nonvolatile oils
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "nonvolatile oil" is understood to
mean an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).
The nonvolatile oils can be chosen in particular from nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, if
appropriate fluorinated, and/or nonvolatile silicone oils.
Mention may in particular be made, as nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil suitable for use in the
invention, of:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,
- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytosteryl esters, such as
phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytosteryl glutamate,
for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides composed of
fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4
to C24 , it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched and saturated or
unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ
oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil,
avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil,
hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkinseed oil, cucumber
oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower
oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively
caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold
under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; or the refined vegetable
perhydrosqualene sold under the name Fitoderm by Cognis;
- hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as, for example:
• synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
· linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as
liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, squalane
and their mixtures, in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene;
• synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R represents
the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and
R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocabon chain,
comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R2 is > 10.
The esters can in particular be chosen from esters, in particular fatty acid esters, such as,
for example:
• dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC from Cognis), cetearyl octanoate, esters of
isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-
ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl
stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate,
diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates,
decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol
dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl
palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol di(2-
ethylhexanoate) and their mixtures, benzoates of C 2 to C 5 alcohols, hexyl laurate,
neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate,
isostearyl neopentanoate or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such
as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, or
hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate,
• polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaeryth rityI
tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
• esters of dimer diols and of dimer diacids, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and
Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application FR
03 02809,
• fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a
branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as
2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-
undecylpentadecanol,
· higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their
mixtures, and
• dialkyl carbonates, it being possible for the two alkyl chains to be identical
or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,
• nonvolatile silicone oils, such as, for example, nonvolatile
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups
which are pendent and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, which groups each have from
2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl
dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes and (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates,
dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt,
and their mixtures;
- and their mixtures.
Volatile oils
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" is understood to mean
an oil (or nonaqueous medium) which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin
in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile
oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a
nonzero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially
having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in
particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly
ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16
carbon atoms, in particular branched C8-Ci 6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such
as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or
isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar® or Permethyl® trade names.
Use may also be made, as volatile oils, of volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile
linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10 6
m2/s), and having in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and especially from 2 to 7 silicon
atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10
carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be
used in the invention, of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,
heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures.
Use may also be made of volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or
perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and their mixtures.
It is also possible to use a mixture of the oils mentioned above.
According to a specific embodiment, the composition comprises at least one volatile oil
(whether a silicone oil or a hydrocarbon oil).
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is
understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid
change in state, which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement
and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than
23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance, measured at 23°C, can represent
from 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23°C
preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and
85% by weight.
Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of
the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the
standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be
measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter
sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first
temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then
cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a
second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by
the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is
measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance
is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve
representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the
temperature.
The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23°C is equal to the ratio of
the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty
substance.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter
in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to
be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty
substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of
the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the
calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a temperature rise
of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3:1999.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to
make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is
expressed in J/g.
The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the
sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23°C, consisting of
a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C preferably represents
from 30% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50% to 100%,
more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. When the
liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the
temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or
equal to 32°C.
The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of
the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty
substance. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as
the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
The pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic fatty substances and fatty
substances of vegetable origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis
from starting materials of vegetable origin.
The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:
lanolin and its derivatives,
polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyalkylene glycol, ethers
of fatty alcohol and of sugar, and their mixtures, the ether of pentaerythritol and of
polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene (5 OE) units (CTFA name: PEG-5
Pentaerythrityl Ether), the ether of pentaerythritol and of polypropylene glycol comprising
5 oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their
mixtures, and more especially the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl
Ether and soybean oil mixture, sold under the name Lanolide by Vevy, in which mixture
the constituents are in a 46/46/8 ratio by weight: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46%
PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil,
- polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds,
polymeric or nonpolymeric fluorinated compounds,
vinyl polymers, in particular:
■ olefin homopolymers and copolymers,
■ hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,
- fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-
Cioo and preferably C2-C5o diols,
esters,
and/or their mixtures.
The pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.
Preference is given in particular, among the fat-soluble polyethers, to copolymers of
ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, more
preferably such that the ratio by weight of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene
oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention
will in particular be made of copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are
arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of from 1000 to 10 000, for
example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer, such as the ethers of
dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name
Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
Preference is given in particular, among the esters, to:
- esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular diglycerol esters, especially condensates of
adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols has
reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and
12-hydroxystearic acid, such as in particular those sold under the brand name Softisan
649 by Sasol,
- arachidyl propionate, sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,
phytosterol esters,
fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives,
pentaerythritol esters,
esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, if appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or
acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters;
such esters can be chosen in particular from esters with the following INCI nomenclature:
bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G),
phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA or Lusplan PHY/IS-DA),
phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S),
and their mixtures,
mango butter, such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 by AarhusKarlshamn,
- hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil or
mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as the soybean, coconut, palm and
rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, for example the mixture sold under the
reference Akogel® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil),
shea butter, in particular that having the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter,
such as that sold under the reference Sheasoft® by AarhusKarlshamn,
cocoa butter, in particular that which is sold under the name CT Cocoa Butter
Deodorized by Dutch Cocoa BV or that which is sold under the name Beurre De Cacao
NCB HD703 758 by Barry Callebaut,
shorea butter, in particular that which is sold under the name Dub Shorea T by
Stearinerie Dubois,
and their mixtures.
According to a preferred embodiment, the pasty fatty substance is chosen from shea
butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, a soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed
hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, and their mixtures, and more particularly those
referenced above.
The waxes under consideration in the context of the present invention are generally
deformable or nondeformable solid lipophilic compounds at ambient temperature (25°C)
which exhibit a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which have a melting point of
greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
On bringing one or more waxes in accordance with the invention to the liquid state
(melting), it is possible to render it or them miscible with one or more oils and to form a
macroscopically homogeneous mixture of wax(es) and oil(s) but, on bringing the
temperature of said mixture back to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax(es)
in the oil(s) of the mixture is obtained.
Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of
the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the
standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a
differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name
MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise
ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from
100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally it is subjected to a second
temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the
second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty
crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of
the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature
corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the
difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The waxes capable of being used in a composition according to the invention are chosen
from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures which are
solid at ambient temperature. They can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and/or silicone
waxes.
Mention may in particular be made, by way of examples, of hydrocarbon waxes, such as
natural beeswax (or bleached beeswax), synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran
wax, such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Rica Noda, candelilla wax,
such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes,
such as, for example, the microcrystalline waxes having a melting point of greater than
85°C, such as the products HI-MIC® 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 sold by Nippon Seiro,
ceresins or ozokerites, such as, for example, isoparaffins having a melting point of less
than 40°C, such as the product EMW-0003 sold by Nippon Seiro, oolefin oligomers, such
as the Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies,
ethylene/propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, polyethylene waxes
(preferably with a molecular weight of between 400 and 600), Fischer-Tropsch waxes or
the sunflower seed wax sold by Koster Keunen under the reference Sunflower Wax.
Mention may also be made of silicone waxes, such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones
having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or fluorinated waxes.
According to a specific embodiment, the wax used in a composition in accordance with
the invention exhibits a melting point of greater than 35°C, better still of greater than
40°C, indeed even of greater than 45°C or also of greater than 55°C.
According to a preferred embodiment, the wax or waxes are chosen from polymethylene
waxes; the silicone wax sold under the name Dow Corning 2501 Cosmetic Wax by Dow
Corning (INCI name: bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane); beeswax; vegetable
waxes, such as carnauba wax; the mixture of polyglycerolated (3 mol) vegetable
(mimosa/jojoba/sunflower) waxes sold under the name Hydracire S by Gattefosse; or the
hydrogenated castor oil sold under the name Antisettle CVP by Cray Valley.
The other fatty substances which can be present in the fatty phase are, for example, fatty
acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid or palmitic
acid, or fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl alcohol,
cetyl alcohol and their mixtures (cetearyl alcohol).
The fatty phase can also comprise other compounds dissolved in the oils, such as gelling
agents and/or structuring agents.
These compounds can in particular be chosen from gums, such as silicone gums
(dimethiconol); silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl C1-4 alkyl dimethicone and
trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the
KSG names by Shin-Etsu, under the Trefil name by Dow Corning or under the Gransil
names by Grant Industries; and their mixtures.
These fatty substances can be chosen in a manner varied by a person skilled in the art in
order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency
or texture.
Aqueous phase
When the composition in accordance with the invention is provided in the form of an
emulsion, the aqueous phase comprises at least water. According to the formulation form
of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1% to 99% by weight,
preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, better still from 30% to 95% by weight and even
better still from 40% to 95% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
This amount depends on the formulation form of the composition desired. The amount of
water may represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight
and better still at least 60% by weight.
The aqueous phase can comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, such as, for example,
substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms,
such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene
glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycols and their
derivatives, and their mixtures.
The emulsions generally comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric,
anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are
appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or 07W).
The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion as active material
ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, with
respect to the total weight of the composition.
Mention may be made, for the W/O emulsions, for example, as emulsifiers, of
dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone
copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning or the oxyethylenated
polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10 Dimethicone sold under the name KF-6017 by Shin-Etsu,
and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the
name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone
copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4
isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE
09 by Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers can also be added thereto. The
coemulsifier can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of polyol alkyl
esters. Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of glycerol and/or
sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the
name Isolan Gl 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under
the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under
the name Arlacel 986 by ICI, and their mixtures.
Mention may be made, for the O/W emulsions, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic
surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acid having a saturated or
unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still
from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say
derivatives comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl esters of
C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of C8-
C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acid, and
their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols,
and their mixtures.
Mention may in particular be made, as glyceryl ester of fatty acid, of glyceryl stearate
(glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl
ricinoleate, and their mixtures.
Mention may in particular be made, as polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid, of
polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate) and more
especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate),
polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their
mixtures.
Use may also be made of mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the
product comprising glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel
165 by Uniqema, and the product comprising glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate)
and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by Goldschmidt (CTFA name:
glyceryl stearate SE).
Mention may be made, as fatty alcohol ethers, for example, of polyethylene glycol ethers
of fatty alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22
carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or
cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Mention may be made, for
example, of ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene
groups, such as those with the CTFA name Ceteareth-20 or Ceteareth-30, and their
mixtures.
Mention may be made, as examples of sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers, of
methyl glucose isostearate, sold under the name Isolan-IS by Degussa Goldschmidt, or
else sucrose distearate, sold under the name Crodesta F50 by Croda, and sucrose
stearate, sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods.
Mention may also be made of lipoamino acids and their salts, such as monosodium and
disodium acylglutamates, such as, for example, monosodium stearoyl glutamate, sold
under the name Amisoft HS-1 1PF, and disodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name
Amisoft HS-21 P, by Ajinomoto.
In a known way, all the compositions of the invention can comprise one or more of the
adjuvants normal in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic
gelling agents and/or thickeners; moisturizers; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active
agents; agents for combating free radicals; sequestering agents; antioxidants;
preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; fillers; and
their mixtures.
The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under
consideration. In particular, the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired
objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example
from 0.1% to 20% and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the
composition.
Fillers
According to a specific embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention
additionally comprises at least one mattifying filler other than clays.
Mention may be made, as mattifying fillers which can be used in the composition of the
invention, for example, of perlites; silicas, such as the polymer with the INCI name
Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer sold under the name NLK 506 by Takemoto Oil &
Fat; silica, such as the silica microspheres sold under the name SB 700 by Miyoshi Kasei;
kaolin; talc; boron nitride; spherical organic powders; fibers; and their mixtures. Mention
may be made, as spherical organic powders, for example, of polyamide powders and in
particular Nylon® powders, such as Nylon-1 or Polyamide 12 powder, sold under the
Orgasol names by Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon®; microspheres based on
acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl
methacrylate copolymer, sold by Dow Corning under the Polytrap name; expanded
powders, such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the
Expancel name by Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by
Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the Tospearl name by
Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name
Microsphere M-100 by Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by Wackherr;
ethylene/acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the Flobeads name by
Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; powders formed of natural organic materials, such as
powders formed of starch, in particular of corn starch, wheat starch or rice starch, which
may or may not be crosslinked, such as the powders formed of starch crosslinked with
octenylsuccinic anhydride, sold under the Dry-Flo name by National Starch. Mention may
be made, as fibers, for example, of polyamide fibers, such as in particular Nylon 6 (or
Polyamide 6) (INCI name: Nylon 6) fibers, Nylon 6,6 (or Polyamide 66) (INCI name: Nylon
66) fibers, or such as poly(p-phenylene terephthamide) fibers; and their mixtures.
The perlites which can be used in the context of the invention can be expanded perlites.
They are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and they have the composition:
70.0%-75.0% by weight of silica Si0 2;
12.0%-1 5.0% by weight of oxide of aluminum oxide Al20 3;
3.0%-5.0% of sodium oxide Na20 ;
3.0%-5.0% of potassium oxide K20 ;
0.5%-2% of iron oxide Fe20 3;
0.2%-0.7% of magnesium oxide MgO;
0.5%-1 .5% of calcium oxide CaO;
0.05%-0.15% of titanium oxide Ti0 2.
The perlite is ground, dried and then graded in a first step. The product obtained, known
as perlite ore, is gray in color and has a size of the order of 100 m h .
The perlite ore can subsequently be expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less
white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the
structure of the material evaporates and brings about the expansion of the material with
respect to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles which can be used in the
context of the invention can be obtained by the expansion process described in the
patent US 5 002 698.
According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the expanded perlite particles used
are ground; in this case, they are referred to as Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They
preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to
50 m h and preferably from 0.5 to 40 m h .
Mention may be made, as examples, of the perlites sold under the names Optimat 1430
OR and Optimat 2550 OR by World Minerals.
Preferably, the perlite particles used exhibit a loose bulk density at 25°C ranging from 10
to 400 kg/m3 (standard DIN 53468) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m3.
The mattifying fillers other than clays can be present in amounts ranging from 0% to 25%
by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably still from 0.5% to
8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Active agents
Mention may be made, by way of example of active agent and without implied
limitation, of ascorbic acid and its derivatives, such as 5,6-di-Odimethylsilylascorbate
(sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the
potassium salt of D,L-a-tocopheryl 2-L-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Senju
Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,
sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the reference Stay-C 50);
phloroglucinol; enzymes; and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment of the
invention, use is made, among oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active agents, of ascorbic
acid. The ascorbic acid can be of any nature. Thus, it can be of natural origin in the
powder form or in the form of orange juice, preferably orange juice concentrate. It can
also be of synthetic origin, preferably in the powder form.
Mention may be made, as other active agents which can be used in the composition of
the invention, for example, of moisturizing agents, such as protein hydrolyzates and
polyols, such as glycerol, glycols, such as polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; ant i
inflammatories; procyanidol oligomers; vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E
(tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), the derivatives of these
vitamins (in particular esters) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents,
such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; o
hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids, such
as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of
fungi, of plants, of yeasts or of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or
triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives;
mattifying agents, such as fibers; tensioning agents; UV screening agents, in particular
organic UV screening agents; and their mixtures.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant or
adjuvants added to the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous
properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are
not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.
The examples which follow will make possible a better understanding of the invention
without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature. The amounts indicated are given as % by
weight of starting material, unless otherwise mentioned. The names of the compounds
are shown as INCI names.
EXAMPLES
The pillability of the compositions is evaluated according to the following protocol.
The products are evaluated by a beautician on half the face, on six models, having
normal to combination skin, the application side being randomized. For each product,
0.30 ml is applied by the beautician, using a standardized application action. The
beautician evaluates the pillability of the product during application, and then after
application and drying for two minutes, using a specific pilling action (to and fro
movements with the back of the hand over the cheek).
Pilling is defined as the presence of particles, it being possible for the amount of particles
to be "Low", "Medium" or "High".
Example I : Moisturizing cream (in the direct emulsion form)
The following compositions were prepared.
Manufacturing process
Phase A is heated with stirring and then phase B is added with stirring to emulsify.
Cooling is carried out down to AT and phases C and D are added.
Results Evaluation
Composition B according to the invention exhibits a lower pillability than the comparative
composition A not comprising silica aerogel particles.
Example II: Anti-aging regenerating cream in the W/O emulsion form
The following compositions were prepared.
Manufacturing process
Phases A, B and C are prepared by homogenization under hot conditions (70°C) with
stirring. Emulsification is carried out by dispersion of phase B in phase A with stirring of
Moritz type, followed by addition of phase C. Cooling is carried out with slow stirring and
addition of the fillers (phase D) at ambient temperature.
Results Evaluation
Composition D according to the invention exhibits a lower pillability than the comparative
composition C not comprising silica aerogel particles.
Example III: Mattifying moisturizing cream for greasy skin
The following compositions were prepared.
E (comparative) F (invention)
Phase A
Cetearyl alcohol 2 2
Isostearyl neopentanoate 8 8
Phase B
Water q.s. for 100 q.s. for 100
Preservatives 0.4 0.4
Glycerin 7 7
Montmorillonite 4 4
(Gel White H from Rockwood Additives)
Sclerotum gum 0.5 0.5
(Amigum from Alban Muller)
Sucrose stearate 2 2
(Tegosoft PSE from Evonik-Goldschmidt)
Phase C
Silica Silylate 1
(Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning)
Phase D
Denatured alcohol 7 7
Manufacturing process
Phase A and phase B are homogenized with stirring under hot conditions and then
emulsification is carried out with stirring by pouring phase A into phase B. Cooling is
carried out down to 40°C and then the aerogel (phase C) is added. Phase D is then
added at ambient temperature.
Results Evaluation
Composition F according to the invention exhibits a lower pillability than the comparative
composition E not comprising silica aerogel particles.
Example IV: PURIFYING FLUID for men
The following compositions were prepared.
G H (invention)
(comparative)
Phase A
Arachidyl alcohol (and) behenyl alcohol (and) 1.7 1.7
arachidyl glucoside
(Montanov 202 from Seppic)
Glyceryl stearate 1.7 1.7
(Tegin Pellets from Evonik-Goldschmidt)
PDMS 5 cSt 5 5
Preservatives 0.2 0.2
Phase B
Glycerin 7 7
Water q.s. for 100 q.s. for 100
Preservatives q.s. q.s.
Phase C
Xanthan gum 0.1 0.1
PDMS 5 cSt 5 5
Phase D
Kaolin 9 9
(Kaolin Supreme from Imerys)
Methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer 3 3
(NLK 506 from Takemoto)
Silica Silylate 1
(Aerogel VM2270 from Dow Corning)
Manufacturing process
Phases A and B are homogenized at 70°C and emulsification is carried out by dispersion
of phase A in phase B with stirring. Phase C is added at 60°C and then phase D is added
at 25°C.
Results Evaluation
Composition H according to the invention exhibits a lower pillability than the comparative
composition G not comprising silica aerogel particles.

CLAIMS
1. A composition for topical application provided in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or
in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
- hydrophobic silica aerogel particles exhibiting a specific surface per unit of weight (Sw )
ranging from 500 to 1500 m2/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2/g and better still from 600
to 800 m2/g, and a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging
from 1 to 1500 m h , preferably from 1 to 1000 m h , more preferentially still from 1 to 100
m h , in particular from 1 to 30 m h , more preferably from 5 to 25 m h , better still from 5 to
20 m h and even better still from 5 to 15 m h ; and
- at least one clay.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles
exhibit a specific surface per unit of volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m2/cm3, preferably
from 10 to 50 m2/cm3 and better still from 15 to 40 m2/cm3 and/or an oil absorption
capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles, preferably
from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
3. The composition as claimed in either of claims 1 and 2, in which the hydrophobic silica
aerogel particles are trimethylsiloxylated silica particles.
4. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the hydrophobic silica
aerogel particles are present in a content as active material ranging from 0.1% to 15% by
weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, better still from 1% to 5% by weight and
more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the
composition.
5. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the clay or clays are
chosen from clays of the family of the smectites, of the family of kaolinite, optionally
modified clays of the family of halloysite, donbassite, antigorite, berthierine or
pyrophyllite, montmorillonites, beidellite, vermiculites, talc, stevensite, hectorites,
bentonites, saponites, chlorites, sepiolite and illite.
6. The composition as claimed in claim 5, in which the clay or clays are chosen from
kaolinite, smectites, bentonite and saponite.
7. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the clay or clays are
present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by
weight and better still from 1% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the
composition.
8. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, additionally comprising at least
one mattifying filler other than clays.
9. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, which is provided in the form
of an emulsion of oil-in-water type (direct emulsion).
0 . A method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous substance, in which a cosmetic
composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to the keratinous substance.
11. The use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 in the
cosmetic or dermatological field and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making
up the skin of the body or face or for caring for the hair.