The present invention concerns a composition, preferably a stick composition, more
diameter of from 0.5 to 3 mm, comprising specific ingredients.
Eye make-up is of interest for women around the world. Among the different available
and the waterline (i.e. just below the eyes); however, such a precise application is not
possible for most of the eyeliners, because they may cause eyes irritation.
The invention proposes a make-up composition, preferably anhydrous and preferably in
the form of a stick, preferably a kajal stick, which is able to deliver the adequate make-up
20 in one stroke application. The texture of said composition is non-sticky and non-drying.
The composition easily glides on the eye water line upon application, without discomfort,
and/or without worrying about irritation and/or watery eyes.
Preferably, the composition of the invention creates smudge-free bold lines on eyelids,
which preferably last for up to a few hours (i.e. 6-1 Oh) and which are intense.
25 Finally, the composition of the invention is easy to manufacture, to pour and to moid. It is
stable for at least one month, preferably two months, at a temperature of up to 45°C„
Thus, the composition of the invention shows good stability, a good color intensity,
smoothness and good moldabiiity upon preparation, notably for succeeding to obtain a
30 very thin stick having a diameter of less than 3 mm.
The present invention relates to a composition, preferably stick composition, more
preferably kajal stick composition, preferably of a diameter of from 0.5 to 3 mm,
comprising:
35 - waxes comprising :
i_ at least one wax having a melting point lower than 75°C;
* at least one wax having a melting point of at least 75CC and which consists of a
mixture of polyethylene wax, microcrystailine wax and synthetic wax, wherein the amount
of synthetic wax is less than 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition,
- at least one pigment chosen from carbon black and metallic oxides,
5 - at least one volatile oil, and
- at least one polymer chosen from liposoiuble film-forming polymers, semi-crystalline
polymers and their mixtures,
10
preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0,5% by weight Preferably, the composition
Without any mention of the contrary, the amounts are expressed by weight of the total
The invention also relates to a process for make-up of the eye, comprising applying the
20 composition of the invention around the eye, preferably on the eye water line.
Preferably, the composition comprises at least one of the following features:
- it comprises an amount of wax(es) having a melting point lower than 75°C of from 1 to
15% by weight, preferably of from 2 to 14% by weight, preferably of from 5% to 13% by
25 weight; preferably it comprises from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of
candelilia wax, and/or from 1% to 10%, preferably from 2% to 7% by weight of waxes
obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyi alcohol;
- it comprises an amount of waxes having a melting point of at least 75°C of from 5% to
29% by weight, preferably of from 10% to 25% by weight; preferably it comprises from 5 to
30 15% by weight of polyethylene wax, and from 3 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the
composition of microcrystailine wax;
- it comprises less than 0.9% by weight of synthetic wax, and preferably at least 0.1% by
weight, preferably of at least 0.5% by weight of synthetic wax;
- it comprises from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight of
35 pigments;
o ,J
- it comprises from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 50% by weight, more
preferably from 27% to 40% by weight of volatile oil;
- it comprises from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight of non-
5 - it comprises the polymer in a solids content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight for
insiaiK.6, Trom d, /o 10 IU /o rjy wetgni,
Characterization of the_stick
10 Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is a stick composition. The
hardness of the stick composition according to the invention can be such that the
on the eyes.
Preferably it has a hardness varying from 220 to 260 g.
15 The hardness is measured according to the following protocol:
The stick is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before the hardness measurement is taken.
The hardness can be measured at 2Q°C using the so-called "wire to cut the butter"
method, which consists in transversalSy cutting a stick of the product, preferably cylindrical
revolution, using a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 urn by displacing the wire
20 relatively to the stick at a speed of 100 mrn/min.
The hardness of the samples of the compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm'\ is
measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer sold by INDELCO-CHATILLON.
The measurement is reproduced three times and then averaged. The average of the three
values read using the dynamometer mentioned hereinabove, noted as Y, is given in
25 grams. This average may be converted into Newtons then may be divided by L which
represents the highest dimension passed through by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical
stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).
The hardness can be converted into Mm""1 by the equation herein below:
(Yx1G~3x9.8)/l
30 For a measurement at a different temperature, the stock is stored 24 hours at this new
temperature before the measurement.
Wax having a melting point lower than 75°C
The composition of the invention comprises at least one wax of which the melting point is
35 less than 75°C. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least
two different waxes having a melting point lower than 75°C.
4
The wax considered in the invention is in general a lipophilic compound, which is solid at
ambient 25°C having a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point in
5 The melting point of a solid fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter
(DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the trade name "DSC Q100" by TA
Instruments with the 'TA Universal Analysis" software.
According to the invention, the melting temperature corresponds more particularly to the
temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in DSC as described in the norm ISO
10 11357-3; 1999.
The measurement protocol can be as follows:
A sample of solid fat of about 5 mg is placed in a "sealed aluminum capsule" crucible.
and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from 0°C to 2G°C at a heating rate of
The value of the melting temperature of the solid fat is the value of the top of the most
endothermic peak of the fusion curve observed, representing the variation in the
20 difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. In particular, the waxes of
the composition according to the invention, have a melting temperature greater than 30°C
and better greater than 45°C.
More particularly, the wax having a melting point lower than 75°C is chosen from:
25 - the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils that in particular
have C8-C32 linear or branched fat chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil,
hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as
the waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those
sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by SOPHIM. Such waxes are
30 described in application FR-A-2792190. As waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified
olive oil with stearyl alcohol (hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters), mention can be made
of those sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57";
- waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candellila wax5
lanolin wax, berry wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, hydrogenated
35 Jojoba wax, in particular refined.
The wax having a melting point lower than 75°C may also be a paraffin wax.
5
More preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one wax having a
hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol (hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters)
and their mixtures. More preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least a
5 mixture of candelilla wax and waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with
weight.
15 7% by weight of the total weight of the composition of waxes obtained by hydrogenating
esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol.
Wax having a melting point of at least 75X
The composition of the invention also comprises at least one wax of which the melting
20 point is at least 75CC, and which consists of a mixture of polyethylene wax,
microcrystalline wax and synthetic wax, wherein the amount of synthetic wax is less than
1 % by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Thus, the composition of the invention only contains a mixture of polyethylene wax,
microcrystalline wax and synthetic wax, as waxes having a melting point of at least 75°C.
25
The pofyethylene wax preferably has a melting point of at least 80°C, and preferably of
less than 100°C, preferably less than 95°C. Such a polyethylene wax may be sold under
the name Performalene 500-L Polyethylene by New Phase Technologies.
30 The synthetic wax according to the invention preferably has a melting point of at least
BOX, and preferably of less than 100°C, preferably less than 95°C. It is a non-polar wax,
preferably a polymethylene wax. Preferably it is a polymethylene wax comprising C25-
C60 unbranched hydrocarbons, with a molecular weight of 400-900 g/mot, and a melting
point of around 81 °C. Preferably the synthetic wax is Cirebeile 108 (which has a melting
35 point of around 81 °C). The amount of synthetic wax is less than 1% by weight of the tola!
weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.9% by weight. Preferably the amount of
synthetic wax is of at least 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition,
preferably of at least 0.5% by weight
I he composition comprises mscrocrysta'yne wax, particularly of synthetic oriQin, such as
wax are mixed with a paraffin wax, such as the mixture sold under the name Paracera
10
Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises an amount of waxes having a
15 total weight of the composition of polyethylene wax, and from 3 to 10% by weight of the
total weight of the composition of rnicrocrystalline wax.
According to the invention, the composition comprises a total amount of waxes which is
equal to or less than 29,5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
20
Pigment
The composition of the invention comprises at least one pigment chosen from carbon
black and metallic oxides.
Preferably, the metallic oxides are iron oxides.
25 Preferably, the pigment is carbon black (CI 77268:1). Carbon black may be from vegetal
or synthetic origin. More preferably, the pigment is carbon black from vegetal origin.
Other pigments may be present in the composition of the invention.
A pigment should be understood to mean inorganic or organic, white or colored particles.
Representative pigments that may be used in the practice of the invention include white,
30 colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, nonpolymeric, coated and uncoated pigments.
Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surfacetreated,
zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides,
manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Representative
examples of organic pigments include pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on
35 cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum. Pigments may also be
7
nacreous pigments, such as white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium
or with bismuth oxychioride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium rnica
with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an
organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above and nacreous pigments based on
Lake and any other pigment or treated pigment known in the cosmetic arts. The amount of
pigment may vary depending on the application envisaged.
10
Volatile oil
The term "volatile oil" refers to an oil that has a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient
20 temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in
particular ranging to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging to 1,300 Pa.
The volatile oil may be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.
25 Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils that have
from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:
- C8»C1Q branched alkanes such as iso-aikanes (also called isoparaffins) in
C8-C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the
trade names Isopars or Permetyis,
30 - linear alkanes, for, example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane
(C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL l4-975
as well as mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of nundecane
(C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application
WO2008/155059 of Cognis, and
35 - mixtures thereof.
8
Preferably, the volatile silicone oil is chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as
linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDIV1S) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
5 octamethylcyciotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclocomposition,
of volatile oil, preferably at least 25% by weight, more preferably at least
27% by weight. Preferably, the composition comprises from 20% to 60% by weight of the
15 total weight of the composition, of volatile oil, preferably from 25% to 50% by weight, more
preferably from 27% to 40% by weight.
Polymer
The composition of the invention comprises at least one polymer chosen from liposoluble
20 film-forming polymers, semi-crystalline polymers and their mixtures.
As disclosed herein, the term ''film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable, by itself or
in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a continuous film that
adheres to a support, such as keratin materials.
25 Film-forming polymers include liposoluble polymers comprising less than 30% by weight
of a crystallizable portion as disclosed herein, or for example, comprising no crystallizable
portion at all.
Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the compositions of the present
disclosure, non-limiting mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type
30 or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of liposoluble polymers that may be used as disclosed herein
include copolymers of vinyl esters wherein the vinyl group is directly linked to the oxygen
atom of the ester group and vinyl esters comprising a saturated, linear or branched
35 hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 24 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyi of the ester
group, and of at least, one other monomer, which may be chosen from vinyl esters
different from the vinyl ester already present, alkyl vinyl ethers the alky! group of which
comprises from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and allylic and rnethaliylic esters comprising a
saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 24 carbon atoms, linked
to the carbonyl of the ester group. These copolymers may be crosslinked using
5 crosslinking agents that may be of the vinylic type, of the allylic and methallylic type, such
as tetraailyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyi dodecanedioate and
vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl
acetate / octadecyi, vinyl propionate / laurate ally!, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl
10 stearate / 1-octadecene, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl
ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, dimethyl-2, 2 octanoate vinyl / vinyl laurate, dimethyl-2,
2 pentanoate allyl / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate / vinyl stearate, aliyl dimethyl
propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2%
divinylbenzene, vinyl dimethylpropionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2%
15 divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyi vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0,2% of
tetraailyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / stearate allyl, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene,
vinyl acetate / 1-octadecene, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, and ally! propionate /
allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene.
20 Further non-limiting examples of these copolymers that may be used as disclosed herein
include the copolymers: vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl propionate/allyi laurate, vinyl
propionate/vinyi laurate, and allyl 2,2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate.
Among additional iiposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be used as disclosed
25 herein, non-limiting mention may be made of Iiposoluble homopolymers, for instance,
those resulting from the homopolymenzation of vinyl esters comprising from 9 to 22
carbon atoms or of aikyl acryiates or methacryiates, the alkyl radicals comprising from 2 to
24 carbon atoms.
Still additional non-limiting examples of Iiposoluble homopolymers that may be used
30 include those chosen from homopolymers of vinyl ester having C8-C30 alkyl groups, such
as polyvinyl laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomere PP by Chimex), and
polylauryl(meth)acrylates, these poly(meth)acrylates possibly being crosslinked using
ethylene glycol dimethacryiate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacryiate.
The iiposoluble homopolymers and copolymers defined above are known and described,
35 for example, in French Patent Application FR-A-2,232,303; they may have a weight10
average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000, for instance, from 4000 to
Among liposoluble film-forming polymers that may be used as disclosed herein, non-
5 limiting mention may also be made of po'yalkylenes, for example C2 to C20 alkene
copolymers, for instance polybutene, aikylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated
or unsaturated C-jto C8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylceilulose and propylceliulose,
vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers, such as copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of a C2to
C4o, for example, C3to C2o, alkene. As examples of VP copolymers that may be used in
10 the invention, non-limiting mention may be made of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl
rnethacrylate copolymers.
15 Preferably, the polymer is chosen from allyt stearate copolymers such as vinyi acetate /
allyl stearate copolymers, polyvinyl laurate and their mixtures.
The at least one film-forming polymer may be present in the composition as disclosed
herein in a solids content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, for instance, from 2% to
20 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Nonvolatile oil
The composition of the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil.
25 "Non-volatile oil" refers to an oil of which the vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric
pressure, is not zero and less than 10-3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa). By way of example, the
vapor pressure may be measured according to the static method or the method of effusion
by isothermicthermogravimetry, according to vapor pressure (norm OECD 104).
30 The non-volatile oil may be polar or apolar (non-polar).
The non-volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil. Preferably, it is a
hydrocarbon oil.
Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are more particularly chosen from compounds
35 that comprise only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
Said oils, linear or branched, can be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example:
11
- paraffin oil or derivatives thereof,
- squalane,
- naphthalene oil,
particular chosen from:
20 - C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;
More particularly, the C10~C26 alcohols are saturated or not, branched or not, and comprise
from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they contain
ai least 16 carbon atoms.
25 As examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention, mention can be
made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, or natural such as for example alcohols coming
from plant substances (coconut, palm, etc.) or animal substances (tallow, etc.).
Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as for example ether-alcohols
or so-called Guerbet alcohols.
30 Finally, certain more or less long cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as for example
coco (Ci2 to Cie) or fallow (C16 to C18) or compounds of the diol or cholesterol type, can
also be used.
Preferably a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably
from 12 to 22 carbon atoms is used.
12
As particular examples of fatty alcohols that can be used preferably, mention can be made
in particular of lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyioctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-
According to one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from
diisostearyl adipate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate,
15 * the triesters of a C2™C8 carboxylic triacide and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally
hydroxyfated, such as the esters of citric acid, such as trioctyl citrate, triethylcitrate,
acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyitributyl citrate.
- The esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or several C2-C8 carboxylic acids,
20 such as the diesters of glycol and of monoacids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or
the triesters of glycol and of monoacids such as triacetine.
- the ester oils, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms.
As examples, mention can be made of mono-, di- or tri- esters.
25 Ester oils can be hydroxylated or not
The non-voiatile ester oil can be chosen for example from:
* monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in
particular monoesters, having formula R-1COOR2 wherein R^ is the remainder of a linear or
branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not,
30 and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 carbon
atoms with the condition that Ri + K2 is 17, as for example Purceliin oil (cetostearyl
ocfanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethy! hexyl palrnitate,
octyfdodecyi neopentanoate, octy!-2-dodecyl stearate, octyI~2™dodecyl erucate, isostearyl
isostearate, octyl-2 dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols
35 or of poiyaicohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palrnitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-
13
ethylhexyl paimitate, 2-hexyl decyi Saurate, 2~octyIdodecyl palmitate, 2-octyidodecyl
myri state.
Preferably, these are esters having formula R-iCOQF^ wherein R-i is the remainder of a
linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 is a
and/or octyl-2~docecyl neopentanoate;
particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total In particular diesters of carboxylic
15 diacid and of monoalcohols can be used, such as preferably diisostearyl malate, or the
diesters of glycol and of monocarboxyiic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate,
propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2
diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference
DERMOL DGDIS by Alzo);
20 * hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total number of
carbon ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryi-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate,
octyihydroxystearate, octyidodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate;
* triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in
particular such as triesters of carboxylic triacide, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl
25 trimellitate, or tnesters of glycol and of monocarboxyiic acids such as polyglyceryl-2
thisostearate;
* tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to
70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritoi or of poiyglycerol and of a monocarboxyiic acid,
for example such as pentaerythrityl tetra pel argon ate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,
30 pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl iri decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2
tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate;
* polyesters obtained by condensing unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or
trimers and dio! such as those described in the patent application FR 0 853 634, such as
in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may particularly be made in this
35 respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthesis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INC!
14
name: diiinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or polyol and diacid dimer copolymers, and
diol and fatty acid esters and dimer diol esters carboxylic diacid dimers, in particular that
acid sold under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech;
* piant-based hydrocarbon-based oils such as fatty acid liquid triglycerides
15 (liquid at ambient temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms,
such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil, in particular, mention can be
made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof,
for example such as the one sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glycerol
triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, triglycerides of acid in Ci8_36 such as those sold under
20 the reference DUB TGI 24 sold by Stearineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides
such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil.
- vinylpyrroiidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, such as for example the one
sold under the name ANTARON V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by ISP ([VlW=7,300
25 g/mol).
- dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different,
such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis.
30 - and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from polybutenes,
hydrogenated or not.
Preferably, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from fatty alcohols
35 comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters
having formula R1COOR2 wherein F^ is the remainder of a linear or branched or aromatic
fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not, and R2 is a hydrocarbon
chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms with the condition that
Ri + R2 is 17; and mixtures thereof.
5 More preferably, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of polar nonvolatile
isononanoate and their mixtures.
10
to 40% by weight of non-volatile oil.
15 £§§ty_cwT]20und
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least a pasty compound
at 23°C, hydrocarbon or silicon.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty fat" or "pasty compound" refers to a
lipophilic fat compound having a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having in the solid
20 state, an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a
liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty compound may be less than 23°C. The
liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C may represent 9 to 97% by
weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15
25 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
The melting point oi a solid fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter
(DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the trade name "DSC Q100" by TA
Instruments with the 'TA Universal Analysis" software, according to the protocol defined
30 hereinabove.
According to the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the
most endothermic peak observed in DSC as described in the norm ISO 11357-3; 1999.
The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of solid fat of about 5 mg is placed in a "sealed aluminum capsule" crucible.
35 The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of
2°C / minute to 8Q°C, then left at isotherm of 80°C for 20 minutes, then is cooled from
16
80°C to ~80°G at a cooling rate of 2°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second
temperature rise from -80°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C / minute.
The value of the melting temperature of the solid fat is the value of the top of the most
endothermic peak of the fusion curve observed, representing the variation in the
5 difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is more particularly equal to
the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty
compound.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound
solid state when the entire mass thereof is in solid crystalline form. The pasty compound
is said to be in the liquid state when the entire mass thereof is in liquid form.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is in particular equal to the area under the
curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter. The enthalpy
15 of fusion of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy required to change the
compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the quantity of energy required by the sample
to change from the solid state to the state presented at 23°C consisting of a liquid fraction
and a solid fraction.
20
The pasty compound(s) can be in particular chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and
fatty substances of plant origin. The pasty compound(s) can be hydrocarbon or silicone.
The pasty compound(s) can be in particular chosen from:
25 - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins,
acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanoiate, oxypropylenated lanolins;
- vaseline (also called petrolatum),
- poiyol ethers chosen from C2-C4 pentaerythritol and poiyaikylene glycol
ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention can be
30 lade of pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ether comprising 5 oxyethyiene patterns (5
OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol
ether comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether),
and the mixtures thereof and more specifically the mixture of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether,
PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" VEVY,
35 wherein the ratio of the constituents by weight is 46:46:8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl
Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean,
17
- optionally polymeric silicone compounds,
- optionally polymeric fluorinated compounds,
- vinyl polymers, in particular:
o branched oligomers, alky! (mefh)acrylate homo or copolymers preferably
o ester homo and copolymer oligomers, having C8-C30 alky! groups
10 - polyethers derived from polyetherification between one or a plurality of C2-
considered, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene-oxide and/or propylene-
15 mention may be made of copolymers such as long-chain atkylene-oxides arranged in
blocks having a mean molecular weight of 1000 to 10000, for example a
and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) ethers marketed under the brand ELFACOS ST9 by
20 - esters and polyesters. Among the esters, particular consideration is given
to:
o oligomer glycerol esters, especially the esters of diglyceroL with
monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or not,
preferably saturated, C6-C20, and/or dicarboxyiic acids, linear or branched; saturated or
25 not, preferably saturated, C6-C10, in particular condensates of adipic acid and glycerol,
for which 8 portion of the hydroxyi groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of
fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-
hydroxystearic acid, such as for example bis-diglyceryl poiyacyladipate-2 sold under the
reference SOFTISAN® 649 by Sasol,
30 o homopolymers of vinyl ester having C8-C30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl
laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomere PP by Chiniex),
o arachidyl propionate sold under the brand Waxeno! 801 by ALZO,
o phytosterol esters,
o triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, in particular triglycerides of
35 fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, possibly mono or poly hydroxylated, C6-
18
C30, more particularly C8-C18, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); with for
o aliphatic esters derived from the esterification of an aliphatic
carboxylic acid is C4-C30, preferably Cs-C3o. It is preferably chosen from hexanoic
heptanoic, octanoic, 2-ethyIhexanoic, nonanoic, decanoic, undecanoic, dodecanoics
tridecanoic, tetradecanoic, pentadecanoic, hexadecanoic, hexyldecanoic, heptadecanoic,
octadecanoic, isostearic, nonadecanoic, eicosanoic, isoarachidique, octyldodecanoic,
C28; with the number of hydroxy! groups being between 1 and 20, more particularly
between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 6,
15 Said hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are preferably chosen from:
monocarboxyiic acid esters;
b) total or partial saturated, monohydroxyiated aliphatic monocarboxyiic acid
esters;
20 c) total or partial saturated, poiyhydroxylated aliphatic rnonocarboxyfic acid
esters;
d) total or partial saturated, polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acid
esters;
e) partial or total C2 -C16 aliphatic polyoi esters with a mono or
25 polyhydroxyfafed mono or polycarboxylic aliphatic acid
f) mixtures thereof.
o dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, optionally esterified on the alcohol or
free acid function(s) thereof by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dilinoleic dimer esters;
such esters may particularly be chosen from esters having the following INC!
30 classification: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdiiinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool
G), phytosteryl/isosteryl/cetyl/stearyi/behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S)
mixtures thereof,
o hydrogenated rosin esters (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHRfrom Nippon Fine
Chemical)
35 - butters of plant origin, such as mango butter, such as the one sold under
the reference Lipex 203 by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular the one of
which the INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the one sold under the
Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Beraca Sabara)( cocoa
butter, babassu butter such as the one sold under the name Cropure Babassu SS-(LK) by
hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures
- and mixtures thereof.
20
Preferably, the pasty compound or compounds suitable for the implementation of the
invention, is (are) chosen from hydrocarbon compounds, in particular chosen from
vaseline, polyol ethers, vinyl polymers, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the
poiyetherification between one or a plurality of C2-C50 diols, esters and polyesters,
25 butters of plant origin, totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.
In accordance with a more preferred embodiment of the invention, the pasty compound or
compounds are chosen from :
- vaseline;
30 - C2-C4 pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers;
- fatty alcohol and sugar ethers;
- ethylene-oxide and/or propylene-oxide copolymers with C6-C3G long-chain
alkySene-oxides;
- oligomer glycerol esters, especially the esters of diglycerol, with
35 monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or not,
preferably saturated, G8-C20, and/or dicarboxylic adds, linear or branched, saturated or
20
not, preferably saturated, G6-G10; in particular BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2
(INCi name),
- homopolymers of vinyl ester having C8-G3G alkyl groups;
- arachidyl propionate;
5 - triglycerides of fatty adds, saturated or not, linear or branched, possibly
- pentaerythritol esters;
acid; advantageously the carboxylic acid is C4-C3Q,
- butters of plant origin,
15 - and mixtures thereof.
The composition may comprise from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably 2% to 10% by
weight of pasty compound, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
20 Other ingredients
The composition according to the invention may also comprise any usual cosmetic
ingredient, which may be chosen especially from antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives,
neutralizing agents, surfactants, vitamins, moisturizing agents, emollients, hydrophilic or
lipophilic active agents and mixtures thereof.
25
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional
ingredients and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the
composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected
by the envisioned addition.
30
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a stick composition, preferably a
kajal stick composition. Preferably, the composition is in the form of a stick with a bullet
diameter comprised between 0.5 to 20 mm, preferably between 2 and 3 mm.
35 The invention also relates to a process for make-up of the eye, comprising applying the
composition of the invention around the eye, preferably on the eye water line.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are
given as non-limiting illustrations.
by weight of waxes), whereas formulation B is comparative (i.e. comprises 30% by weight
of waxes).
Formula
ULTRAMARINES (and) SILICA
Carbon black (CI 77268: 1), vegetal origin
BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2
ISONONYL ISONONANOATE
HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL STEARYL ESTERS
EUPHORBIA CERiFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX
MICROCRYSTALUNE WAX (C20-C60)
PARAFFIN (and) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (and) SYNTHETIC
WAX
(Paracera 30540 from Paramelt)
POLYVINYL LAURATE
POLYBUTENE
POLYETHYLENE WAX (MW : 500)
iSODODECANE
Total amount of waxes (%w/w)
A
4
13
4.75
5.7
4.75
2.375
5.7
3
7.6
10.5
Qsp 100
29.025
B
4
13
5
8
6
5
2.5
8
3
8
10.5
Osp 100
30
15 The formulations were prepared as follows:
The pigments were mixed with isododecane, to obtain a pigmentary paste.
All other ingredients were heated at a temperature of around 105°C, and the pigmentary
paste was added to the molten mixture white stirring, until obtaining a homogenized
20 mixture.
The resulting mixture was poured into stick molds and molded.
The formulations A and B of example 1 (i.e. formulation A of the invention, and
5 comparative formulation B), were tested for their moldability and bullet formation. The
results are in the table below:
Formula
Moldability
A
Easy to mold and bullet
B
No leads formed, thick
whereas the comparative formula does not form any lead, and is thick and difficult to pour

CLAIMS
1. Composition, preferably stick composition, more preferably kajal stick composition, preferably of a diameter of from 0.5 to 3 mm, comprising:
- waxes comprising :
* at least one wax having a melting point lower than 75°C5
* at least one wax having a melting point of at least 75°C and which consists of a
of synthetic wax is less than 1 % by weight of the total weight of the composition,
10 -at least one pigment chosen from carbon black and metallic oxides,
polymers and their mixtures,
15 weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the wax having a melting point lower than
75X is chosen at least from candelilla wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified
olive oil with stearyl alcohol and their mixtures.
20
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein it comprises at least 0.1% by weight of
the total weight of the composition, preferably of at least 0.5% by weight, of synthetic wax.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the metallic oxides are iron
25 oxides.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the pigment is carbon
black, more preferably carbon black from vegetaf origin.
30 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein it further comprises at least
one pasty compound, preferably chosen from:
- vaseline;
- C2-C4 pentaerythritol and polyalkyiene glycol ethers;
- fatty alcohol and sugar ethers;
35 - ethyiene-oxide and/or propyiene-oxide copolymers with C6-C30 long-chain
alkylene-oxides;
- oligomer glycerol esters, especially the esters of diglycerol, with
monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxyiated, linear or branched, saturated or not
preferably saturated, C6-C20, and/or dicarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated or
not, preferably saturated, G6-C10; in particular bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2,
- pentaerythntol esters;
- dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, such as dilinoleic dirner esters;
- partialiy hydrogenated plant oils,
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition comprises
20 from 20% to 60% by weight of the total weight of the composition, of volatile oil, preferably
from 25% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 27% to 40% by weight.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein it further comprises at least
one non-volatile oil, preferably a non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of mineral or
25 synthetic origin such as:
- paraffin oil or derivatives thereof,
- squalane,
- isoeicosane,
- naphthalene oil,
30 - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not,
- polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes,
- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers,
- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes,
- and mixtures thereof.
35
25
9. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the non-volatile oil comprises a polar non-
C-io=^26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, preferably fatty alcohols
comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from o to 4U carbon atoms with the
15 condition that R-i + R2 is 17;
- dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different,
such as the dicaprylyl carbonate;
- and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 8 or 9, wherein the non-volatile oil is
chosen from poiybutene, octyldodecanol, isononyl isononanoate and their mixtures.
11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the polymer is chosen
25 from allyl stearate copolymers such as vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, polyvinyl
laurate and their mixtures.
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein it is anhydrous.
30 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, which is in the form of a stick with
a bullet diameter comprised between 2 and 3 mm.
14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein it comprises at least one
of the following features:
35 - it comprises an amount of wax(es) having a melting point lower than 75°C of from 1 to
15% by weight, preferably of from 2 to 14% by weight, preferably of from 5% to 13% by
28
weight; preferably it comprises from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of
candelilia wax, and/or from 1% to 10%, preferably from 2% to 7% by weight of waxes
obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol:
- it comprises an amount of waxes having a melting point of at least 75°C of from 5% to
5 29% by weight, preferably of from 10% to 25% by weight; preferably it comprises from 5 to
1,5% by weight of polyethylene wax, and from 3 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the
composition of microcrystalline wax;
- it comprises less than 0.9% by weight of synthetic wax, and preferably at least 0.1% by
weight, preferably of at least 0.5% by weight of synthetic wax;
10 - it comprises from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight of
pigments;
- it comprises from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 50% by weight, more
preferably from 27% to 40% by weight of volatile oil;
- it comprises from 10% to 50% by weight, preferabiy from 15% to 40% by weight of non-
15 volatiie'oil;
- it comprises the polymer in a solids content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, for
instance, frpm 2% to 10% by weight,
the percentages being by weight of the total weight of the composition.
15. Process for make-up of the eye, comprising applying the composition of any one of
claims 1 to 14 around the eye, preferably on the eye water line.