The present invention concerns a composition, preferably a stick composition, more
preferably a kajal stick composition (stick composition for the eyes), preferably of a
diameter of from 0.5 to 3 mm, comprising specific ingredients.
Eye make-up is of interest for women around the world. Among the different available
products, one can notably find mascaras, kohls and liners.
Particularly, when using liners, the goal is to apply the composition on the upper eyelid
and the waterline (i.e. just below the eyes); however, such a precise application is not
possible for most of the eyeliners, because they may cause eyes irritation.
Moreover, it is difficult to obtain liners which present good transfer properties of the
composition onto the skin.
Finally, there is a continuous need for obtaining an eye make-up with a certain thickness
15 of deposition and presenting good color intensity, with only one stroke and without
breaking the stick.
The invention proposes a make-up composition, preferably anhydrous and preferably in
the form of a stick, preferably a kajal stick, which is able to deliver the adequate make-up
20 in one stroke application. The texture of said composition is non-sticky and non-drying.
The composition easily glides on the eye water line upon application, without discomfort,
and/or without worrying about irritation and/or watery eyes.
Preferably, the composition of the invention creates smudge-free bold lines on eyelids,
which preferably last for up to a few hours (i.e. 6-1 Oh) and which are intense.
25 Finally, the composition of the invention is easy to manufacture, to pour and to mold. It is
stable for at least one month, preferably two months, at a temperature of up to 45°C.
Thus, the composition of the invention shows good stability, a good color intensity,
smoothness and good moldability upon preparation, notably for succeeding to obtain a
30 very thin stick having a diameter of less than 3 mm.
The present invention relates to a composition, preferably stick composition, more
preferably kajal stick composition, preferably of a diameter of from 0.5 to 3 mm,
comprising:
35 - waxes comprising :
* at least one wax having a melting point lower than 75°C,
2
* at least one wax having a melting point of at least 75°C and including at least
polyethylene wax and carnauba wax,
- at least one pigment chosen from carbon black and metallic oxides,
- at least 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one hydrocarbon
5 volatile oil,
- at least one non-volatile oil, and
- at least one polymer chosen from liposoluble film-forrriing polymers, semi-crystalline
polymers and their mixtures.
10 Preferably, the composition is anhydrous. By "anhydrous", it is meant that the composition
comprises less than 3% by weight of the total weight of water, preferably less than 2%,
preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0,5% by weight. Preferably, the composition
is devoid of water.
15 Without any mention of the contrary, the amounts are expressed by weight of the total
weight of the composition.
The invention also relates to a process for rnake-up of the eye, comprising applying the
composition of the invention around the eye, preferably on the eye water line.
20
Preferably, the composition comprises at least one of the following features:
- it comprises an amount of wax(es) having a melting point lower than 75°C of from 1 to
20% by weight, preferably of from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 2.5% to 10% by
weight; preferably it comprises from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of
25 candelilia wax, and/or from 0.5% to 10%%, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of waxes
obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol;
- it comprises from 3 to 10% by weight of polyethylene wax, and from 5 to 12% by weight
of carnauba wax;
- it comprises from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 10% to 15% by 'weight of
30 pigments;
- it comprises from 25 to 35% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil;
- it comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by weight of non-volatile oil,
preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight of nonvolatile
oil;
35 - it comprises the polymer in a solids content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, for
instance, from 2% to 10% by weight,
3
the percentages being by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Characterization of_the_stick
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is a stick composition. The
5 hardness of the stick composition according to the invention can be such that the
composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate readily to form a satisfactory deposit
on the eyes.
Preferably it has a hardness varying from 220 to 260 g.
The hardness is measured according to the following protocol:
10 The stick is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before the hardness measurement is taken.
The hardness can be measured at 20°C using the so-called "wire to cut the butter"
method, which consists in tratisversaliy cutting a stick of the product, preferably cylindrical
revolution, using a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 250 pm by displacing the wire
relatively to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/min.
15 The hardness of the samples of the compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm'1, is
measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer sold by INDELCO-CHATILLON.
The measurement is reproduced three times and then averaged. The average of the three
values read using the dynamometer mentioned hereinabove, noted as Y, is given in
grams. This average may be converted into Newtons then may be divided by L which
20 represents the highest dimension passed through by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical
stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).
The hardness can be converted into Nm"1 by the equation herein below:
(Yx10"3x9.8)/L
For a measurement at a different temperature, the stock is stored 24 hours at this new
25 temperature before the measurement.
Wax having a melting point lower than ?5°C
The composition of the invention comprises at least one wax of which the melting point is
less than 75°C. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least
30 two different waxes having a melting point lower than 75°C.
The wax considered in the invention is in general a iipophilic compound, which is solid at
ambient 25°C having a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point in
particular greater than or equal to 30°C and less than 75°C.
4
The melting point of a solid fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter
(DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the trade name "DSC Q100" by TA
Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.
According to the invention, the melting temperature corresponds more particularly to the
5 temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in DSC as described in the norm ISO
11357=3; 1993.
The measurement protocol can be as follows:
A sample of solid fat of about 5 mg is placed in a "sealed aluminum capsule" crucible.
When the solid fat is hard (wax), the sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from
10 20°C to 120X, at a heating rate of 2°C / minute, and to SOX, then left at isotherm of
100°C for 20 minutes, then is cooled from 120°C to OX at a cooling rate of 2X / minute,
and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from 0°C to 2 0X at a heating rate of
2X / minute.
The value of the melting temperature of the solid fat is the value of the top of the most
15 endothermic peak of the fusion curve observed, representing the variation in the
difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. In particular, the waxes of
the composition according to the invention, have a melting temperature greater than 3 0X
and better greater than 45X.
20 More particularly, the wax having a melting point lower than 75X is chosen from:
- the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils that in particular
have C8-C32 linear or branched fat chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil,
hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as
the waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those
25 sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by SOPHIM. Such waxes are
described in application FR-A-2792190. As waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified
olive oil with stearyl alcohol (hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters), mention can be made
of those sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57";
- waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candellila wax,
30 lanolin wax, berry wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, hydrogenated
Jojoba wax, in particular refined.
More preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one wax having a
melting point lower than 7SX chosen from candelilla wax, waxes obtained by
35 hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol (hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters)
and their mixtures. More preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least a
5
mixture of candelilla wax and waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with
stearyl alcohol.
Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises an amount of wax(es) having a
5 melting point lower than 75°C of from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the
composition, preferably of from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 2.5% to 10% by
weight.
More preferably, the composition of the invention comprises from 0.5% to 10%, preferably
10 from 1% to 5% by weight of candelilla wax, and/or from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1%
to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition of waxes obtained by hydrogenating
esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol.
Wax having a melting point of at least 75°C and including at least polyethylene wax and
15 carnauba wax
The composition of the invention also comprises at least one wax of which the melting
point is at least 75°C, and includes at least polyethylene wax and carnauba wax.
The polyethylene wax preferably has a melting point of at least 80°C, and preferably of
20 less than 100°C, preferably less than 95°C. Such a polyethylene wax may be sold under
the name Performalene 500-1 Polyethylene by New Phase Technologies.
The composition may comprise polyethylene wax and carnauba wax, and further other
waxes having a melting point of at least 75"C.
25 Such waxes may be chosen from microcrystalline wax particularly of synthetic origin, such
as the ones commercialized under the name Tisco Wax 88, Cire HMP 88, Cire New
Mekon White USA, Be Square 190/195 Ambre, Paracera HW; non-polar polymethylene
wax comprising C25-C60 unbranched hydrocarbons, with a molecular weight of 400-900
g/mol, and melting point of around 81 °C, such as Cirebelle 108 (with a melting point of
30 around 81 °C); and mixtures of microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax and paraffin, such as
Paracera 30540 from Paramelt.
Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises an amount of waxes having a
melting point of at least 75°C of from 5% to 30%. by weight, preferably of from 10% to 25%
35 by weight of the total weight of the composition.
6
Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises from 3 to 10% by weight of the
total weight of the composition of polyethylene wax, and from 5 to 12% by weight of the
total weight of the composition of camauba wax.
5 Pigment
The composition of the invention comprises at least one pigment chosen from carbon
black and metallic oxides.
Preferably, the metallic oxides are iron oxides.
Preferably, the pigment is carbon black (CI 77268:1). Carbon black may be from vegetal
10 or synthetic origin. More preferably, the pigment is carbon black from vegetal origin.
Other pigments may be present in the composition of the invention.
A pigment should be understood to mean inorganic or organic, white or colored particles.
Representative pigments that may be used in the practice of the invention include white,
colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, nonpolymeric, coated and uncoated pigments.
15 Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surfacetreated,
zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides,
manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Representative
examples of organic pigments include pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on
cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum. Pigments may also be
20 nacreous pigments, such as white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium
or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica
with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an
organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above and nacreous pigments based on
bismuth oxychloride.
25 Preferably, they include titanium dioxide, D & C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D & C Red No.
21 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue no. 1 Aluminum
Lake and any other pigment or treated pigment known in the cosmetic arts. The amount of
pigment may vary depending on the application envisaged.
30 Preferably, the composition comprises from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 10% to
20% by weight of the total weight of the composition of pigments. Preferably, the
composition comprises from 10% to 20%. by weight, preferably from 10% to 15% by
weight of the total weight of the composition of carbon black.
35 Volatile hydrocarbon oil
7
The composition of the invention comprises at least 25% by weight of the total m'eight of
the composition of at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil.
The term volatile oil refers to an oil that has a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient
5 temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in
particular ranging to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging to 1,300 Pa.
The volatile hydrocarbon oil is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils that have
from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:
10 - C8-C16 branched alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in
CrO-ie, isododeeane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the
trade names Isopars or Permetyls,
- linear alkanes, for, example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane
(C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL
15 14-97, as well as mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the
mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of
application WO2008/155059 of Cognis, and
- mixtures thereof.
20 Preferably, the composition comprises less than 40% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil.
Preferably, the composition comprises from 25 to 35% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon
oil.
Non-volatile oil
25 The composition of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
"Non-volatile oil" refers to an oil of which the vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric
pressure, is not zero end less than 10-3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa). By way of example, the
vapor pressure may be measured according to the static method or the method of effusion
30 by isothermic thermogravimetry, according to vapor pressure (norm OECD 104).
The non-volatile oil may be polar or apolar (non-polar).
The non-volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil. Preferably, it is a
hydrocarbon oil.
35
8
Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are more particularly chosen from compounds
that comprise only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
Said oils, linear or branched, can be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example:
- paraffin oil or derivatives thereof,
5 - squalane,
- isoeicosane,
- naphthalene oil,
- polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example 1NDOPOL H-100,
INDOPOL H-300, INDOPOL H-1500 sold or manufactured by AMOCO,
10 - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as for example Parleam®
sold by NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALAIME H-300 E sold by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 sold by
SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 sold by W1TCO, or PARLEAM LITE sold by NOP
Corporation,
- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers particularly
15 Indopo! 1-14,
- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as for example PURESYN
10, PURESYN 150 or PURESYN 6 sold by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL),
- and mixtures thereof.
20 The composition can comprise at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in
particular chosen from:
- C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;
More particularly, the C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or not, branched or not, and comprise
25 from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the Ci0-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they contain
at least 16 carbon atoms.
As examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention, mention can be
made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, or natural such as for example alcohols coming
30 from plant substances (coconut, palm, etc.) or animal substances (tallow, etc.).
Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as for example ether-alcohols
or so-called Guerbet alcohols.
Finally, certain more or less long cuts of aicohois of natural origin, such as for examplecoco
(C-12 to Ci6) or tallow (C16 to C18) or compounds of the diol or cholesterol type, can
35 also be used.
9
Preferably a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably
from 12 to 22 carbon atoms is used.
As particular examples of fatty alcohols that can be used preferably, mention can be made
in particular of lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-
5 hexylclecylic alcohol, isocetylic alcohol, ocfyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.
According to one advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from.
ocfyldodecanol.
- monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono or
10 polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol.
In particular:
* monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally
hydroxylated,
* the diesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic diacid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally
15 hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2 hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or
diisostearyl adipate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate,
* the triesters of a Ca-Cg carboxylic triacide and of a G2-C8 alcohol, optionally
hydroxylated, such as the esters of citric acid, such as trioctyl citrate, triethylcitrate,
acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyltributyl citrate.
20
- The esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or several C2-C8 carboxylic acids,
such as the diesters of glycol and of monoacids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or
the triesters of glycol and of monoacids such as triacetine.
25 - the ester oils, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms.
As examples, mention can be made of mono-, di- or tri- esters.
Ester oils can be hydroxylated or not.
The non-volatile ester oil can be chosen for example from:
* monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in
30 particular monoesters, having formula R1COOR2 wherein R-] is the remainder of a linear or
branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not,
and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 carbon
atoms with the condition that R-i + R2 is 17, as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl
octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl paltnitate,
35 octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl
isostearate, octyl-2 dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols
10
or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl pa Imitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-
ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl
myristate.
Preferably, these are esters having formula R-,COOR2 wherein R^ is the remainder of a
5 linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 is a
hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, with Ri
and R2 being such that R-, + R2 is 17.
More particularly, the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
As preferred monoesters, mention can be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate
10 and/or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate;
* fatty acid monoesters, in particular from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and in
particular lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene
glycol monoisostearate.
* diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in
15 particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. In particular diesters of carboxylic
diacid and of monoalcohols can be used, such as preferably diisostearyl malate, or the
diesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate,
propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2
diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference
20 DERMOL DGDIS by Alzo);
* hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total number of
carbon ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate,
octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate;
* triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in
25 particular such as triesters of carboxylic triacide, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl
trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2
triisostearate;
* tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to
70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid,
30 for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,
pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2
tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate;
* polyesters obtained by condensing unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or
trimers and diol such as those described in the patent application FR 0 853 634, such as
35 in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may particularly be made in this
respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthesis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (IMCI
11
name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or polyol and diacid dimer copolymers;, and
esters thereof, such as Haiiuscenf ISDA;
* dimer did and mono- and dicarboxylic esters and polyesters, such as dimer
diol and fatty acid esters and dimer dioi esters carboxylic diacid dimers, in particular that
5 can be obtained from a carboxylic diacid dimer particularly derived from the dirnerization
of an unsaturated fatty acid, particularly C8 to C34, particularly C12 to C22, in particular C16
to C2o, and more particularly C18, such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers,
for example such as those sold by NIPPON FINE CHEyiCAL under the trade name
LUSPLAN DD-BA5® and PD-PA7®;
10 * polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of
carboxylic acid(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic
dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated such as castor oil of succinic acid and of isostearic
acid sold under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech;
* plant-based hydrocarbon-based oils such as fatty acid liquid triglycerides
15 (liquid at ambient temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms,
such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil, in particular, mention can be
made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof,
for example such as the one sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glycerol
triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, triglycerides of acid in C18-36 such as those sold under
20 the reference DUB TGI 24 sold by Stearineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides
such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil.
- vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers, such as for example the one
sold under the name ANTARON V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by iSP (MW=7,30Q
25 g/mol).
- dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different,
such as the dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetioi CC®, by Cognis.
30 - and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from polybutenes,
hydrogenated or not.
Preferably, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from fatty alcohols
35 comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters
12
having formula R1COOR2 wherein Rt is the remainder of a linear or branched or aromatic
fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not, and R2 is a hydrocarbon
chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms with the condition that
R-i + R2 is 17; and mixtures thereof.
5 More preferably, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of polar non-volatile
hydrocarbon-based oils, preferably of isononyl isononanoate arid octyldodecanoi.
Preferably, the non-volatile oil is chosen from polybutene, octyldodecanoi, isononyl
isononanoate and their mixtures.
10
Preferably, the composition comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 15% by
weight of non-volatile oil. Preferably, the composition comprises from 10% to 35% by
weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight of non-volatile oil.
15 Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of the total
weight of the composition of silicone oil (volatile and non-volatile), preferably less than
0.5% by weight, preferably is devoid of any silicone oil.
Polymer
20 The composition of the invention comprises at least one polymer chosen from liposoluble
film-forming polymers, semi-crystalline polymers and their mixtures.
As disclosed herein, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable, by itself or
in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a continuous film that
25 adheres to a support, such as keratin materials.
Film-forming polymers include liposoluble polymers comprising less than 30% by weight
of a crystallizable portion as disclosed herein, or for example, comprising no crystallizable
portion at all.
Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the compositions of the present
30 disclosure, non-limiting mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type
or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of liposoluble polymers that may be used as disclosed herein
include copolymers of vinyl esters wherein the vinyl group is directly linked to the oxygen
35 atom of the ester group and vinyl esters comprising a saturated, linear or branched
hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 24 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyi of the ester
13
group, and of at least one other monomer, which may be chosen from vinyl esters
different from the vinyl ester already present, alkyl vinyl ethers the alkyl group of which
comprises from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and allylic and methallylic esters comprising a
saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 24 carbon atoms, linked
5 to the carbonyl of the ester group. These copolymers may be crosslinked using
crosslinking agents that may be of the vinylic type, of the allylic and methallylic type, such
as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and
divinyl octadecanedioate. Examples of such copolymers include the following copolymers:
vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl
10 acetate / octadecyl, vinyl propionate / laurate allyl, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl
stearate / i-octadecene, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl
ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, dimethyl-2, 2 octanoate vinyl / vinyl laurate, dimethyl-2,
2 pentanoate allyl / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl
propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0 , 2%
15 divinylbenzene, vinyl dimethylpropionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2%
divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% of
tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / stearate allyl, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene,
vinyl acetate / t=octadecene, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, and allyl propionate /
allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene.
20
Further non-limiting examples of these copolymers that may be used as disclosed herein
include the copolymers: vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl
propionate/vinyl laurate, and allyl 2,2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate.
25 Among additional iiposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be used as disclosed
herein, non-limiting mention may be made of Iiposoluble homopolymers, for instance,
those resulting from the hornopolymerization of vinyl esters comprising from 9 to 22
carbon atoms or of alkyl acryiates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals comprising from 2 to
24 carbon atoms.
30 Still additional non-limiting examples of Iiposoluble homopolymers that may be used
include those chosen from homopolymers of vinyl ester having C8-G3Q alky! groups, such
as polyvinyl laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomere PP by Chimex), and
polyl3uryl(meth)acrylates, these poly(meth)acrylates possibly being crosslinked using
ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
35 The Iiposoluble homopolymers and copolymers defined above are known and described,
for example, in French Patent Application FR-A-2,232,303; they may have a weight
14
average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000, for instance, from 4000 to
200,000.
Among liposoluble film-forming polymers that may be used as disclosed herein, non-
5 limiting mention may also be made of polyalkylenes, for example C2to C2oalkene
copolymers, for instance polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated
or unsaturated C-ito C8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylceliulose,
vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers, such as copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of a C2to
C40, for example, C3to C2o, alkene. As examples of VP copolymers that may be used in
10 the invention, non-limiting mention may be made of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl
methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic
acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene and VP/acrylic aeid/lauryi
methacrylate copolymers.
15 Preferably, the polymer is chosen from allyl stearate copolymers such as vinyl acetate /
allyl stearate copolymers, polyvinyl laurate and their mixtures.
The at least one film-forming polymer may be present in the composition as disclosed
herein in a solids content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, for instance, from 2% to
20 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Pasty compound
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least a pasty compound
at 23X, hydrocarbon or silicon.
25 For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty fat" or "pasty compound" refers to a
lipophilic fat compound having a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having in the solid
state, an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a
liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty compound may be less than 23°C. The
30 liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C may represent 9 to 97%. by
weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15
and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
The melting point of a solid fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter
35 (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the trade name "DSC Q100" by TA
15
instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software, according to the protocol defined
hereinabove.
According to the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the
most endothermic peak observed in DSC as described in the norm ISO 11357-3; 1999.
5 The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of solid fat of about 5 mg is placed in a "sealed aluminum capsule" crucible.
The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from 20°C to 80°C, at a heating rate of
2°C / minute to SOT, then left at isotherm of 80°G for 20 minutes, then is cooled from
80°C to -SOX at a cooling rate of 2°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second
10 temperature rise from -SOX to 2 0X at a heating rate of 2°C / minute.
The value of the melting temperature of the solid fat is the value of the top of the most
endothermic peak of the fusion curve observed, representing the variation in the
difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 2 3X is more particularly equal to
15 the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 2 3 X to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty
compound.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound
to change from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the
solid state when the entire mass thereof is in solid crystalline form. The pasty compound
20 is said to be in the liquid state when the entire mass thereof is in liquid form.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is in particular equal to the area under the
curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter. The enthalpy
of fusion of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy required to change the
compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
25 The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 2 3X is the quantity of energy required by the sample
to change from the solid state to the state presented at 23°C consisting of a liquid fraction
and a solid fraction.
The pasty compound(s) can be in particular chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and
30 fatty substances of plant origin. The pasty compound(s) can be hydrocarbon or silicone.
The pasty compound(s) can be in particular chosen from:
- lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins,
acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins;
35 - vaseline (also called petrolatum),
16
- polyol ethers chosen from C2-C4 pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol
ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. For example, mention can be
lade of pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ether comprising 5 oxyethylene patterns (5
OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol
5 ether comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether),
and the mixtures thereof and more specifically the mixture of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether,
PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide™ VEVY,
wherein the ratio of the constituents by weight is 46:46:8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl
Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean,
10 - optionally polymeric silicone compounds,
- optionally polymeric fluorinated compounds,
- vinyl polymers, in particular:
o olefin homopolymers and copolymers;
o hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers;
15 o branched oligomers, alkyl (meth)acrylate homo or copolymers preferably
having a C8-C30 alkyl group,
o ester homo and copolymer oligomers, having C8-C30 alkyl groups, and
o ester homo and copolymer oligomers, having C8-C30 alkyl groups
- polyethers derived from polyetherification between one or a plurality of C2-
20 C100, preferably C2-C50, diols. Of the liposoluble polyethers, ethylene-oxide and/or
propylene-oxide copolymers with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene-oxides are particularly
considered, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene-oxide and/or propyleneoxide
with alkylene-oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, particular
mention may be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene-oxides arranged in
25 blocks having a mean molecular weight of 1000 to 10000, for example a
polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the dodecanediol (22 mol)
and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) ethers marketed under the brand ELFACOS ST9 by
AKZO NOBEL.
- esters and polyesters. Among the esters, particular consideration is given
30 to:
o oligomer glycerol esters, especially the esters of diglycerol, with
tnoHDcarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or not,
preferably saturated, C6-G20, and/or dicarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated or
not, preferably saturated, C6-G10, in particular condensates of adipic acid and glycerol,
35 for which a portion of the hydroxy! groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of
fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-
17
hydroxystearic acid, such as for example bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the
reference SOFTISAN® 649 by Sasol,
o homopolymers of vinyl ester having C8-C30 alkyi groups, such as polyvinyl
laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomere PP by Chimex),
5 o arachidyl propionate sold under the brand Waxenol 801 by ALZO,
o phytosterol esters,
o triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, in particular triglycerides of
fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, possibly mono or poly hydroxylated, G6-
C30, more particularly C8-C18, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); with for
10 example Softisan 100® sold by Sasol,
o pentaerythritol esters,
o aliphatic esters derived from the esterification of an aliphatic
hydroxycarboxylic acid with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. More particularly, the aliphatic
carboxylic acid is C4-C3o, preferably C8-C3o. It is preferably chosen from hexanoic
15 heptanoic, octanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, nonanoic, decanoic, undecanoic, dodecanoic,
tridecanoic, tetradecanoic, pentadecanoic, hexadecanoic, hexyldecanoic, heptadecanoic,
octadecanoic, isostearic, nonadecanoic, eicosanoic, isoarachidique, octyldodecanoic,
heneicosanoic and docosanoic acids, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid
is preferably branched. The hydroxycarboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from
20 a G2-C40 hydroxylated carboxylic acid, preferably C10 - C34, and more preferably C12 -
C28; with the number of hydroxyl groups being between 1 and 20, more particularly
between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 6.
Said hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are preferably chosen from;
a) total or partial saturated, linear and monohydroxylated aliphatic
25 monocarboxylic acid esters;
b) total or partial saturated, monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid
esters;
c) total or partial saturated, poly hydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid
esters;
30 d) total or partial saturated, polyhydroxylated aliphatic poiycarboxylic acid
esters;
e) partial or total C2 -C16 aliphatic polyol esters with a mono or
polyhydroxylated mono or poiycarboxylic aliphatic acid
f) mixtures thereof.
35 o dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, optionally esterified on the alcohol or
free acid function(s) thereof by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dilinoleic dimer esters;
18
such esters may particularly be chosen from esters having the following I NCI
classification: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dirnerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool
G), phytosteryl/isosteryl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S)
mixtures thereof,
5 o hydrogenated rosin esters (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine
Chemical)
- butters of plant origin, such as mango butter, such as the one sold under
the reference Lipex 203 by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular the one of
which the !NCi name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the one sold under the
10 reference Sheasoft® by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from
Beraca Sahara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Beraca Sahara), cocoa
butter, babassu butter such as the one sold under the name Cropure Babassu SS-(LK) by
Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, the one sold under the reference
Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen,
15 - totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, such as for example
hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures
of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated plant oil of soybean,
coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel®
by AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), trans isomerized
20 partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the
commercial reference lso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for
example, the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance,
- hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as dimer dilinoleate hydrogenated
castor oil for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO,
25 hydrogenated castor oil isostearate for example SALACOS HCIS (V-L) sold by NISSHIN
OIL,
- and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the pasty compound or compounds suitable for the implementation of the
30 invention, is (are) chosen from hydrocarbon compounds, >n particular chosen from
vaseline, polyol ethers, vinyl polymers, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the
polyetherification between one or a plurality of C2-C50 diols, esters and polyesters,
butters of plant origin, totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.
35 In accordance with a more preferred embodiment of the invention, the pasty compound or
compounds are chosen from :
19
- vaseline;
- C2-C4 pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers;
- fatty alcohol and sugar ethers;
- ethylene-oxide and/or propylene-oxide copolymers with C6-C30 long-chain
5 alkylene-oxides;
- oligomer glycerol esters, especially the esters of diglyceroi, with
monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or not,
preferably saturated, C6-C20, and/or dicarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated or
not, preferably saturated, G6-C10; in particular BIS-PIGLYCERYL PQlYACYLADiPATE-2
10 (INC! name),
- homopolymers of vinyl ester having C8-C30 alkyl groups;
- arachidyl propionate;
- triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, possibly
mono or poly hydroxylated, C6-C30, more particularly C8-C13, possibly hydrogenated;
15 - pentaerythritol esters;
- non-crosslinked esters obtained by condensation of a C4-C5o linear or
branched di- or poly-carboxylic acid and of a C2-C50 dioi or polyol, aliphatic esters
obtained by the reaction of a hydroxycarboxylic acid ester and of an aliphatic carboxylic
acid; advantageously the carboxylic acid is C4-C30,
20 - dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, such as dilinoleic dimer esters;
- butters of plant origin,
- partially hydrogenated plant oils,
- and mixtures thereof.
25 The composition may comprise from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably 2% to 10% by
weight of pasty compound, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Other ingredients
The composition according to the invention may also comprise any usual cosmetic
30 ingredient, which may be chosen especially from antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives,
neutralizing agents, surfactants, vitamins, moisturizing agents, emoilients, hydrophilic or
lipophilic active agents and mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art wiii take care to select the optional additional
35 ingredients and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the
20
composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected
by the envisioned addition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a stick composition, preferably a
5 kajal stick composition. Preferably, the composition is in the form of a stick with a bullet
diameter comprised between 0.5 and 20 mm, preferably between 2 and 3 mm.
The invention also relates to a process for make-up of the eye, comprising applying the
composition of the invention around the eye, preferably on the eye water line.
10
The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are
given as non-limiting illustrations.
Examples
15
Example 1: Preparation of compositions accordi the invention and
comparative fojTTjjofa
The following formulations A and B of the invention, and comparative formula C, were
20 prepared as follows:
Formula
Iron oxides (CI: 77499)
Ultramarines (and) silica (CI: 77007)
Carbon black (C! 77268: 1), vegetal origin
Octyldodecanol
Carnauba wax
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2
Isononyl isononanoate
Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters
Candelilla wax
Microcristalline wax (C20-C60)
Paraffin (and) microcristalline wax (and)
synthetic wax
Polyvinyl laurate
Vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer (35/65)
Polybutene
Polyethylene wax (PM: 500)
Isododecane
A
4,2
13
8,2
10
7
7,7
1,5
, _
1,5
4
8
4,5
Qsp 100
B
3,1
12,5
7,5
9,5
5
7,2
3
2
2,4
2
4
7,6
7
( Q s p l O O ^
c
25
3
3
8
7
4
2,5
6
3
8
9
Qsp 100
21
Formula C is comparative because it comprises 21.5% by weight of isododecane, thus
less than 25% by weight of isododecane.
The pigments were mixed with isododecane, to obtain a pigmentary paste.
5 All other ingredients were heated at a temperature of around 105°C, and the pigmentary
paste was added to the molten mixture while stirring, until obtaining a homogenized
mixture.
The resulting mixture was poured into stick molds and molded.
10 Example 2: Instrumental evaluation of pigment intensity.,of the fomuHas_of_example
1
Formulas A to C of example 1 were studied for pigment intensity.
It has to be noted that formulas A and B (both according to the invention) comprise carbon
15 black of vegetal origin.
Formula C (comparative) comprises iron oxides and no carbon black.
The evaluation was performed as follows :
20 Instrument:
1. Pay off machine : the machine was used for in vitro application of each formula,
and evaluation of ROI using Chromalys;
2. Chromasphere : each formula was applied by an expert, which consists of 3
strokes on the upper eyelid. Evaluation of ROI using Chromalys was then
25 performed.
Software analysis:
2 zones (bottom 4cm) selected for each formula and analysis is done using Chromalys
(ROI -20x7), in order to determine L* values.
30'
Results:
Delow are the L* values obtained with formulas A to C :
i
C J
r43?55 J
| 4 3 1 5 2 - ~ ~ |
: ir>>[ltl(jia
I 'alue
A
33.36
32.17
Average 76
Stanclarc
deviatior
31.62
0.82
22
43.58
0.06
Conclusion:
The higher the value of L*, less is the pigment intensity.
It results that formulas A and B (with carbon black of vegetal origin) are observed to be
more intense than comparative formula C (with iron oxides).
Thus, carbon black of vegetal origin gives bolder, darker and blacker intensity than iron
oxides.
Example 3_: Moiciabiiity and stability of formulas of the invention and eoroparatiwe
formuias
The following formulations F1 to F5 of the invention, and comparative formula, were
prepared as in example 1:
Formula
ULTRAMARINES (and) SILICA
Carbon black (CI 77268:1)
OCTYLDODECANOL
COPERNICIA CERIFERA
(CARNAUBA) WAX
BUTYROSPERMUM PARKIi (SHEA)
BUTTER
BIS-DIGLYCERYL
POLYACYLADIPATE-2
ISONONYL ISONONANOATE
HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL
STEARYL ESTERS
EUPHORBIA CERIFERA
(CANDELILLA) WAX
MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX
PARAFFIN (and)
MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (and)
SYNTHETIC WAX
ALLYL STEARATE/VA
COPOLYMER
POLYBUTENE
POLYETHYLENE WAX (WW : 500)
DIMETHICONE
(non-volatile)
ISODODECANE
F1
4.167
13
8.17
10
7
7.75
1.5
1.5
1.5
4
8
4.5
Qsp100
F2
4.27
13.06
8.24
9
7
7.81
1.5
1.5
1.5
4.5
8
4.5
Osp100
F3
4.23
13.04
8.21
9
7
7.79
1.5
1.5
1.5
4.5
8
4.5
Qsp
F4
4
13
8
5
8
3
2
2.38
2
A
7.6
8.55
Qsp
F5
3.13
13
7.75
8
7
7.44
2
2
1.5
4
8
8
Qsp
Comparati
ve
4
13
5
8
5
5
5
3 __
2.38
2
4
7.6
8.55
15
Qsp100
23
Moidability and issue
_
100 I 100 T 1 00
__. . Easy to moid and bullet if ormatiio. n No leads
formed
Thick and
difficult to
pour
The formulas were prepared, and their moidability and bullets formation were evaluated.
The results are in the table above.
5 The results clearly show that the formulas of the invention are easy to mold and form
bullet, whereas the comparative formula does not form any lead and is thick and difficult to
pour in molds.

CLAIMS
1. Composition, preferably stick composition, more preferably kajal stick composition,
preferably of a diameter of from 0.5 to 3 mm, comprising:
5 - waxes comprising :
* at least one wax having a melting point lower than 75°C ,
* at least one wax having a melting point of at least 75°C and including at least
polyethylene wax and carnauba wax,
- at least one pigment chosen from carbon black and metallic oxides,
10 - at least 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one volatile
hydrocarbon oil,
- at least one non-volatile oil, and
- at least one polymer chosen from liposoluble film-forming polymers, semi-crystalline
polymers and their mixtures.
15
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the wax having a melting point lower than
75°C is chosen at least from candelilla wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified
olive oil with stearyl alcohol and their mixtures.
20 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the metallic oxides are iron oxides.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the pigment is carbon
black, more preferably carbon black from vegetal origin.
25 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil
is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils that have from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures
thereof, and in particular:
- C8=C16 branched alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in
C8-C16, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the
30 trade names fsopars or Permetyls,
- linear alkanes, for, example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane
(C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL
14-97, as well as mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the
mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of
35 application WO2008/155059 of Cognis, and
- mixtures thereof..
25
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises
less than 40% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably from 25 to 35% by weight
of volatile hydrocarbon oil.
5
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the non-volatile oil
comprises a non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of mineral or synthetic origin such as:
- paraffin oil or derivatives thereof,
- squalane,
10 - isoeieosane,
- naphthalene oil,
- polybutenes, hydrogenated or not,
- polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes,
- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers,
15 - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes,
- and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the non-volatile oil
comprises a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, chosen from:
20 - C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, preferably fatty alcohols
comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;
- monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C2-C8 mono or
polycarboxylic acid and a C2~C8 alcohol;
- the esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or several C2-C8 carboxylic acids,
25 such as the diesters of glycol and of monoacids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or
the triesters of glycol and of monoacids such as triacetine;
- the ester oils, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms,
preferably monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular
monoesters having formula R1COOR2 wherein R1 is the remainder of a linear or branched
30 or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not, and R2 is a
hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms with the
condition that F^ + R2 is 17;
- vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymers;
- dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different,
35 such as the dicaprylyl carbonate;
9, Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the non-volatile oil is
chosen from polybutene, octyldodecanoi, isonony! isononanoate and their mixtures.
5
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the polymer is chosen
from allyl stearate copolymers such as vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, polyvinyl
laurate and their mixtures.
10 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein it is anhydrous.
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, which is in the form of a stick with
a bullet diameter comprised between 2 and 3 mm.
15 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein it comprises at least one
of the following features:
- it comprises an amount of wax(es) having a melting point lower than 7'5°C of from 1 to
20% by weight, preferably of from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably of from 2.5% to 10% by
weight; preferably it comprises from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight of
20 candelilla wax, and/or from 0.5% to 10%%, preferably from 1%. to 5% by weight of waxes
obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol;
- if comprises from 3 to 10% by weight of polyethylene wax, and from 5 to 12% by weight
of carnauba wax;
- it comprises from 5% to 20% oy weight, preferably from 10% to 15% by weight of
2.5 pigments;
- it comprises from 25 to 35% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon oil;
- it comprises at least 10% I:.-' weight, preferably at least 15% by weicm of non-volatile oil,
preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight of nonvolatile
oii;
30 - it comprises the polymer in a solids content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, for
instance, from 2% to 10% by weight,
the percentages being by weight of me total weight of the compositiom
14. Process for make-in; of the eye, comprising applying the composition of any one of
35 claims 1 to 13 around the eye, preferably on the eye water line.