Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a merocyanine, an
organic UVB-screening agent and an additional organic UVA-screening
agent
The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition
comprising, in a physiologically acceptable support:
a) at least one oily phase and
b) at least one merocyanine compound of formula ( 1 ) defined hereinbelow
and
c) at least one organic UVB-screening agent chosen from:
i) a liquid lipophilic organic UVB-screening agent
ii) a hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agent
iii) a triazine UVB-screening agent and
iv) mixtures thereof; and
d) at least one organic UVA-screening agent other than the said merocyanine
compound;
when the said UVB-screening agent is liquid and lipophilic, the said composition
contains less than 2% by weight of cyclohexasiloxane relative to the total weight
of the composition.
Another subject of the present invention consists of a non-therapeutic cosmetic
process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the
application, to the surface of the said keratin material, of at least one composition
according to the invention as defined above.
The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the
darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or the uniformity of the
complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at
least one composition as defined previously.
The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing
and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application,
to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined
previously.
It is known that radiation with wavelengths of between 280 nm and 400 nm permits
tanning of the human epidermis and that radiation with wavelengths of between
280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B rays, harms the development of a natural tan.
Exposure is also liable to bring about a detrimental change in the biomechanical
properties of the epidermis, which is reflected by the appearance of wrinkles,
leading to premature ageing of the skin.
It is also known that UV-A rays with wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm
penetrate more deeply into the skin than UV-B rays. UV-A rays cause immediate
and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even of short
duration, under normal conditions can result in damage to the collagen fibres and
the elastin, which is reflected by a modification in the microrelief of the skin, the
appearance of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation (liver spots, lack of uniformity of
the complexion).
Protection against UVA and UVB rays is thus necessary. An efficient
photoprotective product should protect against both UVA and UVB rays.
Many photoprotective compositions have been proposed to date to overcome the
effects induced by UVA and/or UVB rays. They generally contain organic and/or
mineral UV-screening agents, which function according to their own chemical
nature and according to their own properties by absorption, reflection or scattering
of the UV rays. They generally contain mixtures of liposoluble organic screening
agents and/or of water-soluble UV-screening agents combined with metal oxide
pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
Many cosmetic compositions for limiting the darkening of the skin and improving
the colour and uniformity of the complexion have been proposed to date. It is well
known in the field of antisun products that such compositions may be obtained by
using UV-screening agents, and in particular UVB-screening agents. Certain
compositions may also contain UVA-screening agents. This screening system
should cover UVB protection for the purpose of limiting and controlling the
neosynthesis of melanin, which promotes the overall pigmentation, but should also
cover UVA protection so as to limit and control the oxidation of the already-existing
melanin leading to darkening of the skin colour.
However, it is extremely difficult to find a composition which contains a particular
combination of UV-screening agents that would be especially suited to improving
the quality of the skin as regards both the colour and its mechanical elasticity
properties. This improvement is particularly sought on already-pigmented skin so
as not to increase the melanin pigmentary load or the structure of the melanin
already present in the skin.
In point of fact, the majority of the organic UV-screening agents consist of aromatic
compounds which absorb in the wavelength range between 280 and 370 nm. In
addition to their power for screening out sunlight, the desired photoprotective
compounds should also have good cosmetic properties, good solubility in the
usual solvents and in particular in fatty substances such as oils, and also good
chemical stability and good photostability alone or in combination with other UVscreening
agents. They should also be colourless or at least have a colour that is
cosmetically acceptable to the consumer.
One of the main drawbacks known to date of these antisun compositions is that
their systems for screening out UVA and UVB radiation are insufficiently effective
against UV rays and in particular against long UVA rays with wavelengths beyond
370 nm, for the purpose of controlling photo-induced pigmentation and its
evolution by means of a system for screening out UV over the entire UV spectrum.
Liquid lipophilic organic UVB-screening agents are particularly advantageous
since they do not require solvents to dissolve them in the oils usually used in
antisun compositions. These liquid UVB-screening agents are mainly chosen from
b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds such as Octocrylene, salicylate compounds such
as Homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate, and cinnamate compounds such as
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
The UVA and UVB screening systems containing these liquid organic UVBscreening
agents combined with commonly-used organic UVA-screening agents
do not, however, afford broad UV protection over the range 280 to 400 nm.
Hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agents are particularly advantageous since
they can be dissolved in the aqueous phase and thus limit the amount of oils
usually used in antisun compositions. Among the commonly-used hydrophilic
UVB-screening agents, mention may be made of phenylbenzimidazole
compounds, such as phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold especially under the
trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck.
The UVA and UVB screening systems containing these hydrophilic organic UVBscreening
agents combined with commonly-used organic UVA-screening agents
do not, however, afford broad UV protection over the range 280 to 400 nm.
Thazine UVB-screening agents are particularly advantageous for their satisfactory
UVB-ray-absorbing properties. They are described in patents US 4 724 137, EP 0
517 104, EP 0 570 838, EP 0 796 851 and EP 0 775 698. Products that are
particularly known include the derivative 2,4,6-tris[p-(2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-
oxycarbonyl)anilino]-1 ,3,5-triazine, which is sold especially under the trade name
Uvinul T 150 by the company BASF, and 2-[(p-(tert-butylamido)anilino]-4,6-bis[(p-
(2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-1 ,3,5-triazine or Diethylhexyl Butamido
Triazone (INCI name), sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3V.
The UVA and UVB screening systems containing these UVB-screening triazines
combined with commonly-used organic UVA-screening agents do not, however,
Merocyanine compounds are known in patent US 4 195 999, patent application
WO2004/006878, patent applications WO2008/090066, WO201 1/1 13718,
WO2009/027258, WO201 301 0590, WO201 3/01 1094, WO201 3/01 1480 and the
documents IP COM JOURNAL N°0001 79675D published on February 23, 2009,
IP COM JOURNAL N°0001 82396D published on April 29, IP COM JOURNAL N°
0001 89542D published on November 12, 2009, IP COM Journal
N°IPCOM00001 1179D published on 03/04/2004.
Some of these compounds may show the following drawbacks :
- relatively unsatisfactory solubility in the usual solvents and in particular in fatty
substances such as oils which may require a laborious formulation process and/or
may result in cosmetic drawbacks such as a greasy effect on application ;
- an unsatisfactory chemical stability and/or unsatisfactory photostability ;
- produce a color liable to discourage the consumer from using a cosmetic or
dermatological composition containing them.
The UVA and UVB screening systems consisting of ( 1 ) some of these
merocyanine screening agents as the compound Octyl-5-N,N-diethylamino-2-
phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate corresponding to the compound MC172 of
structure
(2) at least one organic liquid lipophilic UVB filter and/or one organic hydrophilic
UVB filter and/or one triazine UVB filter and (3) of at least one commonly used
organic UVA filter do not always make it possible to afford broad UV protection
over the range 280 to 400 nm and especially to obtain an observable absorbance
up to a wavelength of 400 nm inclusive.
There thus remains a need to find a novel UVA and UVB screening system based
on ( 1 ) at least one merocyanine compound, (2) at least one UVB-screening agent
that is one organic liquid lipophilic UVB filter and/or one organic hydrophilic UVB
filter and/or one UVB filter of the triazine type and at least one organic UVA filter,
which is photostable and which ensures overall protection against UV rays from
280 to 400 nm especially having notable absorbance ranging up to a wavelength
of 400 nm inclusive, in a manner that is stable over time and at high temperatures,
without the drawbacks as previously defined.
The Applicant has found, surprisingly, that this objective can be achieved by using
a) at least one organic liquid lipophilic UVB filter and/or at least one organic
hydrophilic UVB filter and/or at least one UVB triazine filter, b) a particular
merocyanine of formula ( 1 ) which will be defined in detail herein below and c) at
least one organic UVA filter other than the said merocyanine.
Furthermore, the merocyanine compounds of formula ( 1 ) herein below, present
surprinsingly the advantage to be significantly less colored than the merocyanine
compounds as disclosed in the application WO2008/090066 as the compound
MC1 1 also called MC03 in the application WO2009/027258.
Those discoveries form the basis of the present invention.
Thus, in accordance with one of the objects of the present invention, a cosmetic or
dermatological composition is now proposed, comprising, in a physiologically
acceptable support:
a) at least one oily phase and
b) at least one merocyanine compound of formula ( 1 ) defined hereinbelow
and
c) at least one organic UVB-screening agent chosen from:
i) a liquid lipophilic organic UVB-screening agent
ii) a hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agent
iii) a triazine UVB-screening agent and
iv) mixtures thereof; and
d) at least one organic UVA-screening agent other than the said merocyanine
compound;
when the said UVB-screening agent is liquid and lipophilic, the said composition
contains less than 2% by weight of cyclohexasiloxane relative to the total weight
of the composition.
Another subject of the present invention consists of a non-therapeutic cosmetic
process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the
application, to the surface of the said keratin material, of at least one composition
according to the invention as defined above.
The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the
darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or the uniformity of the
complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at
least one composition as defined previously.
The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing
and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application,
to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined
previously.
Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge on
reading the detailed description that follows.
The expression "human keratin materials" means the skin (body, face, area
around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips or mucous
membranes.
The term "physiologically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and/or its
integuments, having a pleasant colour, odour and feel and not causing any
unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to discourage the
consumer from using this composition.
The term "liquid lipophilic organic UVB-screening agent" means any organic
chemical molecule that is capable of absorbing at least UVB rays in the
wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm; the said molecule being in liquid form
at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and
capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or
of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty
phase.
The term "hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agent" means any organic chemical
molecule that is capable of absorbing at least UVB rays in the wavelength range
between 280 and 320 nm; the said molecule being capable of being completely
dissolved in molecular form in an aqueous phase or of being dissolved in colloidal
form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.
The term "organic UVA-screening agent" means any organic chemical molecule
that is capable of absorbing at least UVA rays in the wavelength range between
320 and 400 nm; the said molecule also being able to absorb UVB rays in the
wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.
The term "between X and Y" means the range of values also including the limits X
and Y.
According to the invention, the term "preventing" or "prevention" means reducing
the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon,
namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin
material.
MEROCYANINES
According to the present invention, the merocyanine compounds in accordance
with the invention correspond to formula ( 1) below, and also the E/E- or E/Zgeometrical
isomer forms thereof:
in which:
R is a C1-C22 alkyl group, a C2-C22 alkenyl group, a C2-C22 alkynyl group, a C3-C22
cycloalkyl group or a C3-C22 cycloalkenyl group, the said groups possibly being
substituted with one or more O.
The merocyanine compounds of the invention may be in their E/E- or E/Zgeometrical
isomer forms.
The preferential compounds of formula ( 1) are those in which:
R is a C 1-C22 alkyl, which may be interrupted with one or more O.
Among the compounds of formula ( 1 ) , use will be made more particularly of those
chosen from the following compounds, and also the E/E- or E/Z- geometrical
isomer forms thereof:
According to a particular mode of the invention, use will be made of those chosen
from the following compounds, and also the E/E- or E/Z- geometrical isomer forms
thereof:
According to a more particularly preferred mode of the invention, use will be made
of the compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-
en-1 -ylidene}ethanoate (2) in its E/Z geometrical configuration having the following
structure:
and/or in its E/E geometrical configuration having the following structure:
The merocyanines of formula ( 1 ) according to the invention are preferably present
in the compositions according to the invention in a concentration ranging from
0.1 % to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
The compounds of formula ( 1 ) may be prepared according to the protocols
described in Pat. Appl. WO 2007/071 582, in IP.com Journal (2009), 9(5A), 29-30
IPCOM000182396D under the title "Process for producing 3-amino-2-cyclohexan-
1-ylidene compounds" and in US-A-4 749 643 on column 13, line 66 - column 14,
line 57 and the references cited in this regard.
LIQUID LIPOPHILIC ORGANIC UVB-SCREENING AGENTS
The liquid organic UVB-screening agents that may be used according to the
invention are preferably chosen from:
- liquid lipophilic b,b-diphenylacrylate compounds
- liquid lipophilic salicylate compounds
- liquid lipophilic cinnamate compounds
- and mixtures thereof.
a ) b b-Diphenylacrylate compounds
Among the organic liquid lipophilic UVB-screening agents that may be used
according to the invention, mention may be made of the liquid lipophilic alkyl b,b-
diphenylacrylate or a-cyano^^-diphenylacrylate compounds of formula (I) below:
in which R to R3 may take the following meanings:
- R and R'i, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a
straight or branched chain Ci-Cs alkoxy radical or a straight or branched chain Ci-
C4 alkyl radical,
- R and R'i being in the meta or para position;
- R2 represents a straight or branched chain C1-C12 alkyl radical;
- R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a CN radical.
Among the straight or branched chain Ci-Cs alkoxy radicals, examples that may
be mentioned include methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, isopropoxy, n-butoxy,
isobutoxy, tert-butoxy, n-amyloxy, isoamyloxy, neopentyloxy, n-hexyloxy, nheptyloxy,
n-octyloxy and 2-ethylhexyloxy radicals.
Among the straight or branched chain Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals, mention may be made
more particularly of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tertbutyl
radicals. Among the C1-C12 alkyl radicals, examples that may be mentioned,
in addition to those mentioned above, include n-amyl, isoamyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl,
n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, decyl and lauryl radicals.
Among the compounds of general formula (I), the following compounds are more
particularly preferred:
2-ethylhexyl a-cyano-p,p-diphenylacrylate,
ethyl a-cyano-p,p-diphenylacrylate, such as Etocrylene sold especially under the
trade name Uvinul N35® by BASF,
2-ethylhexyl b,b-diphenylacrylate,
ethyl p,p-bis(4'methoxyphenyl)acrylate.
Among the compounds of general formula (I), the compound 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-
3,3-diphenylacrylate, or Octocrylene, sold especially under the trade name Uvinul
N539 by BASF, is even more particularly preferred.
b) Salicylate compounds
Among the liquid lipophilic salicylate compounds that may be used according to
the invention, mention may be made of:
- Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona/EM Industries,
- Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise,
c) Cinnamate compounds
Among the liquid lipophilic cinnamate compounds that may be used according to
the invention, mention may be made of:
- Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold especially under the trade name Parsol
MCX by DSM Nutritional Products,
- Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,
- Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E
1000 by Symrise.
Among the liquid lipophilic UVB-screening agents according to the invention, use
will be made more particularly of the compounds chosen from:
- Octocrylene
- Homosalate,
- Ethylhexyl salicylate
- Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and mixtures thereof.
Among these liquid lipophilic UVB-screening agents, use will be made more
preferentially of the compounds chosen from:
- Octocrylene
- Ethylhexyl salicylate, and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly
Octocrylene.
The liquid lipophilic UVB-screening agent(s) according to the invention are
preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a
concentration ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to
25% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
HYDROPHILIC ORGANIC UVB-SCREENING AGENTS
The hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agents are especially chosen from:
- hydrophilic cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-
hydroxycinnamic acid;
- hydrophilic benzylidenecamphor compounds;
- hydrophilic phenylbenzimidazole compounds;
- hydrophilic p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds;
- hydrophilic salicylic compounds;
- and mixtures thereof.
As examples of hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agents, mention may be made
of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
para-Aminobenzoic compounds:
PABA,
PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name Uvinul P 25® by BASF.
Salicylic compounds:
Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate, sold under the name Dipsal® by Scher,
TEA Salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS® by Symrise.
Benzylidenecamphor compounds:
Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL®
by Chimex,
Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, manufactured under the name Mexoryl
SO® by Chimex.
Phenylbenzimidazole compounds:
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, sold in particular under the trade name
Eusolex 232® by Merck.
Use will be made more particularly of the screening agent Phenylbenzimidazole
Sulfonic Acid, sold especially under the trade name Eusolex 232® by Merck.
The hydrophilic UVB-screening agent(s) may be present in the compositions
according to the invention in contents ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight and
preferably ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
TRIAZINE UVB-SCREENING AGENT
Among the triazine UVB-screening agents in accordance with the invention,
mention may be made of th formula (I) below
in which the radicals A , A 2 and A 3, which may be identical or different, are chosen
from the groups of formula (II):
in which:
- Xa, which may be identical or different, represent oxygen or an -NH- radical;
- Ra, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a linear or branched C i -
Ci8 alkyl radical; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more
C i -C4 alkyl radicals; a polyoxyethylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 ethylene
oxide units and in which the end OH group is methylated; a radical of formula (III),
(IV) or (V) below:
A'— O CI-L-CH- (IV)
in which:
- R i is hydrogen or a methyl radical;
- R2 is a C 1-C9 alkyl radical;
- q is an integer ranging from 0 to 3;
- r is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
- A' is a C4-Cs alkyl radical or a Cs-Cs cycloalkyl radical;
- B' is chosen from: a linear or branched Ci-C3 alkyl radical; a Cs-Cs cycloalkyl
radical; an aryl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals.
it being understood that when Ai, A2 and A3 are identical and Xa denotes an
oxygen atom, then Ra represents a branched C6-C18 alkyl radical.
A first more particularly preferred family of 1,3,5-triazine derivatives of formula (I)
is that described especially in document EP-A-0 517 104, which corresponds to
the 1,3,5-triazines of formula (I) in which Ai, A2 and A3 are of formula (II) and have
the following characteristics:
- one or two radicals Xa-Ra represents the radical -NH-Ra with Ra chosen from: a
C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl
radicals; a radical of formula (III), (IV) or (V) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical;
- R2 is a methyl radical;
- the other two Xa-Ra represent a radical -O-Ra with Ra, which may be identical or
different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical optionally
substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyi radicals; a linear or branched
C 1-C18 alkyl radical; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or
more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (III), (IV) or (V) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C alkyl radical;
- R2 is a methyl radical.
A second more particularly preferred family of compounds of formula (I) is that
consisting of 1,3,5-triazine derivatives described in document EP-A-0 570 838,
which corresponds to the 1,3,5-triazines of formula (I) in which Ai, A2 and A3 are of
formula (II) and have all of the following characteristics:
- one or two radicals Xa-Ra represents the radical -NH-Ra with Ra chosen from: a
linear or branched C 1-C18 alkyl radical; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally
substituted with one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (III), (IV) or
(V) above in which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical;
- R2 is a methyl radical;
the other or the other two Xa-Ra being the radical -O-Ra with Ra, which may be
identical or different, chosen from: hydrogen; an alkali metal; an ammonium radical
optionally substituted with one or more alkyl or hydroxyalkyi radicals; a linear or
branched C 1-C18 alkyl radical; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with
one or more Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; a radical of formula (III), (IV) or (V) above in
which:
- B' is a Ci-C4 alkyl radical;
- R2 is a methyl radical.
A third preferred family of compounds of formula (I) that may be used in the
context of the present invention, and which is especially described in document
US 4 724 137, which corresponds to the 1,3,5-triazines of formula (I) in which Ai,
A2 and A3 are of formula (II) and have the following characteristics:
- Xa are identical and represent oxygen;
- Ra, which may be identical or different, represent a C 6-Ci 2 alkyl radical or a
polyoxyalkylene radical comprising from 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and in which
the end OH group is methylated.
Among the triazine UVB compounds of formula (I), the following will more
particularly be chosen:
2-[(p-(tert-butylamido)anilino]-4,6-bis[(p-(2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-
1,3,5-triazine or Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name
Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3V and corresponding to the following formula:
in which R'" denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical and R" denotes a tert-butyl radical;
- 2,4,6-tris[p-(2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-1 ,3,5-triazine or Ethylhexyl
Triazone sold especially under the trade name Uvinul T 150 by the company
BASF and corresponding to the following formula:
in which R'" denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical
- and mixtures thereof.
Among the triazine UVB-screening agents in accordance with the invention,
mention may also be made of the silicone triazines of formula (VI) below, or a
tautomeric form thereof:
(D)— (Si)— 0 (3.a)/2 (VI)
in which:
- R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl
radical which is optionally halogenated or unsaturated, a C6-C12 aryl radical, a Ci-
C10alkoxy radical, a hydroxyl radical or the trimethylsilyloxy group;
- the group (D) denotes an s-triazine compound of formula (VII) below:
in which:
- X represents -O- or -NR 0- , with Rio representing hydrogen or a C 1-C5 alkyl
radical,
- Rs represents a linear or branched C 1-C30 alkyl radical which is optionally
unsaturated and which may comprise a silicon atom, a C5-C20 cycloalkyl group,
optionally substituted with 1 to 3 linear or branched C i -C4 alkyl radicals, the group
-(CH 2C HRio-O) mR n or the group -CH 2-CH(OH)-CH 2-O-Ri 2 ,
- R9 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical, a linear or
branched C i -Cs alkyl radical or a C i -Cs alkoxy radical, it being possible for two
adjacent R groups on the same aromatic nucleus together to form an
alkylidenedioxy group in which the alkylidene group contains 1 or 2 carbon atoms,
- R10 represents hydrogen or methyl; it being possible for the group (C=O)XRs to
be in the ortho, meta or para position relative to the amino group,
- R 11 represents hydrogen or a C i -Cs alkyl group,
- Ri 2 represent hydrogen or a C4-Cs alkyl group,
- m is an integer ranging from 2 to 20,
- n = 0 to 2,
- A is a divalent radical chosen from methylene or a group corresponding to one of
the following formulae (VI II), (IX), (X ) or (XI):
(Z) — C H - C H2 — (VI II)
W
(Z) C H (IX)
IC
H
(Z) - C H = C H (X)
C H
(XI )
- (å ) -
in which:
- Z is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1-C10 alkylene diradical,
optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical or oxygen atoms and optionally
containing an amino group;
- W represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated C i -Cs alkyl radical.
The organosiloxane of formula (VI) may comprise units of formula: (R)b-(Si)(O)(4-
b) 2 in which R has the same meaning as in formula (VI), b = 1, 2 or 3 .
It should be noted that the derivatives of formula (VI) can be used in their
tautomeric forms and more particularly in the tautomeric form of formula (VI')
below:
(D')— (Si (3-a)/2 (VI')
(R)
in which the group (D') denotes an s-triazine compound of formula (VII') below:
In addition to the units of formula -A-(Si)(R) a(O)(3- a )/2, the organosiloxane may
comprise units of formula (R1 ) b-(Si)(O)(4 - b)/2 in which R1 has the same meaning as
in formula (VI), b = 1, 2 or 3 .
In formulae (VI) and (VI') as defined above, the alkyl radicals may be linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated and chosen especially from methyl, ethyl, npropyl,
isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-amyl, isoamyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl,
n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl and tert-octyl radicals. The alkyl radical that is
particularly preferred is the methyl radical.
The preferred s-triazine derivatives are those for which, in the formula (VI) or (VI'),
at least one and even more preferentially all of the following characteristics are
satisfied:
R is methyl,
a = 1 or 2,
Rs is a C2-C8 radical,
Z = -CH 2- ,
W = H.
Preferably, the s-triazine compounds of formula (VI) of the invention are
represented by formulae (Via), (Vlb) and (Vic) below:
13 ^13 13
(Via) (B)- -Si-O- -Si-O- Si-O- -Si-(B)
R (D) R 13 R
13 13
(Vic) (D)-Si(Ri4)3
in which:
- (D) corresponds to formula (VII) as defined above,
- Ri3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched Ci-
C20 alkyl, phenyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl and trimethylsilyloxy radicals or the hydroxyl
radical,
- Ri4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched Ci-
C20 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, hydroxyl radicals or phenyl radicals,
- (B), which may be identical or different, are chosen from the R13 radicals and the
(D) radical,
- r is an integer between 0 and 200 inclusive,
- s is an integer ranging from 0 to 50 and, if s = 0, at least one of the two (B)
symbols denotes (D),
- u is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
- is an integer ranging from 0 to 10, it being understood that t + u is equal to or
greater than 3, and the tautomeric forms thereof.
The linear diorganosiloxanes of formula (Via)
The linear or cyclic diorganosiloxanes of formula (Via) or (Vlb) are random
oligomers or polymers preferably having at least one and even more preferentially
all of the following characteristics:
- Ri3 is a methyl radical, a C1-C2 alkoxy radical or a hydroxyl radical,
- B is preferentially methyl (in the case of the linear compounds of formula (Via).
As examples of particularly preferred compounds of formula (VI), mention will be
made of the compounds of formulae (V ) to (V ) below and also the tautomeric
forms thereof:

Use will be made more particularly of the compound 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-
diylaminobenzoate)-6-{[1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l -[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl]propyl-
3-ylamino}-s-triazine of structure (Vl2) :
The triazines of formula (VI) and the synthesis thereof were described in patent
application EP 1 891 079.
Among the triazine UVB-screening agents that may be used according to the
invention, mention may also be made of s-triazines substituted with a
benzalmalonate and/or cinnamate and/or benzylidenecamphor and/or
benzotriazole function, such as:
2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris(bis(2-ethylhexyl) 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris(bis(2-ethylhexyl) 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-chloro-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris(bis(2-ethylhexyl) 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(2-ethylhexyl 4'-
aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-butoxy-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(2-ethylhexylamino)-s-triazine,
2,4-bis(4'-aminobenzylidenecamphor)-6-(2-ethylhexylamino)-s-triazine,
2,4-bis(4'-aminobenzylidenecamphor)-6-(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-striazine,
- 2,4,6-tris(diethyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
- 2,4,6-tris(diisopropyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
- 2,4,6-tris(dimethyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
- 2,4,6-tris(ethyl a-cyano-4-aminocinnamate)-s-triazine,
- 2,4,6-tris[(3'-benzotriazol-2-yl-2'-hydroxy-5'-methyl)phenylamino]-s-triazine,
- 2,4,6-tris[(3'-benzotriazol-2-yl-2'-hydroxy-5'-tert-octyl)phenylamino]-s-triazine.
The triazine UVB-screening agents according to the invention are preferably
present in the compositions according to the invention in a concentration ranging
from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 20% by weight and even
more preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
ORGANIC UVA-SCREENING AGENTS
The compositions according to the invention contain at least one organic UVAscreening
agent. They are generally chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble
organic UVA-screening agents.
The term "hydrophilic UV-screening agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological
organic or mineral compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully
dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or which can be dissolved in
colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
The term "lipophilic screening agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological
organic or mineral compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully
dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or which can be dissolved in
colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
The term "insoluble UV-screening agent" means any cosmetic or dermatological
organic or mineral compound for screening out UV radiation which has a solubility
in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in
the majority of organic solvents such as liquid paraffin, fatty alkyl benzoates and
fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol® 812 sold by the company Dynamit
Nobel. This solubility, determined at 70°C, is defined as the amount of product in
solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after
returning to room temperature. It may be readily evaluated in the laboratory.
Among the organic UVA-screening agents of the invention, mention may be made
of:
- organic UVA-screening agents of the type (A) which are capable of exclusively
absorbing UV rays between 320 and 400 nm,
- organic UVA-screening agents of the type (B) which are capable of
simultaneously absorbing UV rays between 280 and 320 nm and those between
320 and 400 nm,
- and mixtures thereof.
a) Organic UVA-screening agents of the type (A) which are capable of
absorbing UV rays from 320 to 400 nm
The organic UVA-screening agents of the type (A) are preferably chosen from
dibenzoylmethane compounds; amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenone
compounds as described in patent applications EP-A-1 046 391 , EP 1 133 980,
DE 100 12 408 and WO 2007/071 584; anthranilic compounds;
benzylidenecamphor compounds; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds such as those
described in patents EP 916 335 and EP 1 133 981 ; bis-benzazolyl compounds as
described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 26; and mixtures thereof, and
more particularly the following organic UVA-screening agents:
Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name Parsol
1789® by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;
Isopropyldibenzoylmethane.
Amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenone compounds:
n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name
Uvinul A Plus® by the company BASF.
1, 1 '-(1 ,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1 -[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-
hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 9 19803-06-8), such as described in
patent application WO 2007/071 584; this compound advantageously being used
in micronized form (mean size of 0.02 to 2 miti ) , which may be obtained, for
example, according to the micronization process described in patent applications
GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous
dispersion.
Anthranilic compounds:
Menthyl anthranilate sold especially under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA® by
Symrise.
4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds:
1, 1 -dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
Benzylidenecamphor compounds:
Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under the name Mexoryl
SX® by Chimex.
Bis-benzazolyl compounds:
Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate sold under the trade name Neo
Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer.
In the context of the invention, and according to a particular embodiment, the
following organic screening agents of the type (A) are used:
- butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane;
n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate;
- terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
b) Organic UVA-screening agents of the mixed type (B) which are capable of
absorbing both UVA and UVB
The organic UVA-screening agents of the type (B) are preferably chosen from
benzophenone compounds; phenylbenzotriazole compounds;
methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds as described in patent
applications US 5 237 071 , US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP
893 119; bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds as described in patent application EP 0
775 698; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP 0 832
642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 1 62 844; symmetrical triazine
screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups
described in patent US 6 225 467, patent application WO 2004/085 4 12 (see
compounds 6 and 9) or the document Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives IP.COM
IPCOM000031 257 Journal, INC West Henrietta, NY, US (20 September 2004),
especially 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)triazine, which is
reviewed in patent applications WO 06/035 000, WO 06/034 982, WO 06/034 991 ,
WO 06/035 007, WO 2006/034 992 and WO 2006/034 985, these compounds
being advantageously used in micronized form (mean particle size from 0.02 to 3
miti ) which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process
described in patent applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119 and
especially in aqueous dispersion form; and mixtures thereof.
Benzophenone compounds
Benzophenone-1 sold especially under the trade name Uvinul 400® by BASF;
Benzophenone-2, sold especially under the trade name Uvinul D 50® by BASF;
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold especially under the trade name Uvinul M
40® by BASF;
Benzophenone-4 sold by the company BASF under the name Uvinul MS 40®;
Benzophenone-5;
Benzophenone-6 sold especially under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay;
Benzophenone-8 sold especially under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24® by
American Cyanamid;
Benzophenone-9 sold by the company BASF under the name Uvinul DS 49®;
Benzophenone-1 0;
Benzophenone-1 1;
Benzophenone-1 2 .
Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:
Drometrizole trisiloxane sold especially under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia
Chimie or manufactured under the name Meroxyl XL® by the company Chimex.
Methylenebis(hvdroxyphenylbenzothazole) compounds
Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form especially
under the trade name Mixxim BB/1 00® by Fairmount Chemical, or in the form of
an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles with a mean particle size ranging
from 0.01 to 5 miti , more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 miti and more particularly
from 0.020 to 2 miti , with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the
structure CnH2n+iO(C6HioO5)xH, in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the
mean degree of polymerization of the (C6Hi 0O5) unit and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6,
as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, sold especially under the trade name
Tinosorb M® by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized
particles with a mean particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 miti , more preferentially
from 0.01 to 1.5 miti and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 miti , in the presence of at
least one polyglyceryl mono(C8-C2o)alkyl ester with a degree of glycerol
polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent
application WO 2009/063 392.
Bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds:
Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine sold especially under the trade
name Tinosorb S® by BASF.
Benzoxazole compounds:
2,4-Bis[5-(1 -dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-
ethylhexyl)imino-1 ,3,5-triazine, sold especially under the name Uvasorb K2A by
Sigma 3V.
In the context of the invention, and according to a particular embodiment, the
following organic screening agents (B) are used:
- Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
- Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous
dispersion of micronized particles,
- Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine,
- Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone,
- 2,4,6-tris(diphenyl)triazine in micronized form,
- and mixtures thereof.
The organic UVA-screening agents in accordance with the invention are preferably
present in contents ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from
0.1 % to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
OILY PHASE
The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one oily
phase.
The compositions of the invention contain less than 2% of cyclohexasiloxane
relative to the total weight of the composition since this compound may pose
incompatibility problems with certain oils usually used in antisun formulations.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "oily phase" means a phase comprising
at least one oil and all of the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty
substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.
The term "oil" means any fatty substance which is in liquid form at room
temperature (20 - 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
An oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be volatile or non-volatile.
An oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from hydrocarbonbased
oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
A hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be an animal
hydrocarbon-based oil, a plant hydrocarbon-based oil, a mineral hydrocarbonbased
oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil.
An oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be advantageously chosen from
mineral hydrocarbon-based oils, plant hydrocarbon-based oils, synthetic
hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil
comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising mainly hydrogen and
carbon atoms.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
A hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may also
optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for
example in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester, ether or acid groups, and in
particular in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups.
The oily phase generally comprises, in addition to the lipophilic UV-screening
agent(s), at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one
volatile and/or non-volatile silicone oil.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is
capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one
hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the
invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature and which
have a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure,
ranging in particular from 0.1 3 Pa to 40 000 Pa ( 10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular
ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly
ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which remains on the skin or the keratin
fibre, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours
and which in particular has a vapour pressure of less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
Hydrocarbon-based oils
As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the
invention, mention may be made especially of:
(i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are
generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have
varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be
saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular
wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor
oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil,
rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil,
poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil,
barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and
musk rose oil; or also caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by
Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 8 10®, 8 12® and 818®
by Dynamit Nobel,
(ii) synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as
petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and
squalane, and mixtures thereof;
(iv) synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a
linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R'
represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from
1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that
R + R' is > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate,
isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the
trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik
Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under
the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl
adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl
isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name of Dub
Dis by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or
polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as
isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or
tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C1 3 alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the
name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also di(linear Ci 4-Ci 5
alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same
company; or acetates;
(v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or
unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for
instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-
butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
(vi) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for instance the product sold under
the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis;
(viii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product
sold under the trade name Eldew SL205® from Ajinomoto;
and mixtures thereof.
Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the
invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in
particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular
isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl
benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol.
As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention,
mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16
carbon atoms and in particular of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, such as Cs-Ci6
isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane
(also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the
oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched Cs-Ci6 esters,
isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the Cognis patent
applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/1 55 059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes
differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols,
which are themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. Mention may be made of
the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn ) and n-tridecane (C1 3) obtained in Examples 1
and 2 of patent application WO 2008/1 55 059 from the company Cognis. Mention
may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol
under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, and also
mixtures thereof.
Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, especially
those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company Shell, may also be used.
According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile
hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures
thereof.
Silicone oils
The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy
groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups
each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl
trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-
phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or
cyclic silicones, especially those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 10 6 m2/s)
and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally
comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As
volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made
especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,
heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general
formula (I):
where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, one or
more hydrogen atoms of which may be replaced with a fluorine or chlorine atom.
Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of:
3-butyl-1 , 1 , 1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,
3-propyl-1 , 1 , 1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and
3-ethyl-1 , 1 , 1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,
corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a
propyl group or an ethyl group.
Fluoro oils
Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane,
decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures
thereof.
An oily phase according to the invention may also comprise other fatty
substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.
Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for
example:
- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such
as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
- a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax,
paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or
synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes;
- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);
- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,
esters of a glycerol oligomer, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and
derivatives thereof;
- and mixtures thereof.
According to a particular form of the invention, the overall oily phase, including all
the lipophilic substances of the composition that are capable of being dissolved in
this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 10%
to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
AQUEOUS PHASE
The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one
aqueous phase, especially in the case where it is desired to use a hydrophilic
organic UVA-screening agent.
The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally other water-soluble or watermiscible
organic solvents.
An aqueous phase that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise, for
example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La
Roche-Posay, water from Vittel or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for use in the
invention comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example Ci-C4 monoalcohols,
such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-
propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol,
dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether,
triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, use may more particularly be made of
ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
According to a specific form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase,
including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being
dissolved in this same phase, represents from 5% to 95% by weight and
preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the
composition.
ADDITIVES
a) Additional UV-screening agents
The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more
additional UV-screening agents chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic, non-liquid or
insoluble organic UVB-screening agents and/or one or more mineral UV-screening
agents. It will preferentially consist of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble
organic UV-screening agent.
The term "organic UVB-screening agent" means any organic chemical molecule
that is capable exclusively of absorbing UVB rays in the wavelength range
between 280 and 320 nm.
The additional organic UV-screening agents are especially chosen from paminobenzoic
(PABA) compounds; triazine compounds; benzyl idenecamphor
compounds; imidazoline compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, especially
those mentioned in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole compounds; benzoxazole
compounds; screening silicones and polymers, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of additional organic UV-screening agents, mention may be made of
those denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:
para-Aminobenzoic compounds:
PABA,
Ethyl PABA,
Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, sold especially under the name Escalol 507® by ISP,
Glyceryl PABA,
PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name Uvinul P 25® by BASF.
Benzylidenecamphor compounds:
3-Benzylidenecamphor, manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD® by Chimex,
4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, sold under the name Eusolex 6300® by Merck,
Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor, manufactured under the name
Mexoryl SW® by Chimex.
Imidazoline compounds:
Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline Propionate.
Benzalmalonate compounds:
Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functions, for instance
Polysilicone-1 5, sold especially under the trade name Parsol SLX by DSM
Nutritional Products, Inc.;
Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
The mineral UV-screening agents used in accordance with the present invention
are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the mineral UV-screening agents of
the invention are metal oxide particles with a mean elementary particle size of less
than or equal to 0.5 miti , more preferentially between 0.005 and 0.5 miti , even more
preferentially between 0.01 and 0.2 miti , better still between 0.01 and 0.1 miti and
more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 miti .
They may be selected in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide,
zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.
Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in
patent application EP-A-0 5 18 773. Commercial pigments that may be mentioned
include the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck
and Degussa.
The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface
treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature
with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic
surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty
acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins
(collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium
hexametaphosphate.
The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated:
- with silica, such as the product Sunveil® from the company Ikeda,
- with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from the company
Ikeda,
- with silica and alumina, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA®
and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA® from the company Tayca, and Tioveil from
the company Tioxide,
- with alumina, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55 (B)® and Tipaque TTO-55
(A)® from the company Ishihara and UVT 14/4 from the company Sachtleben
Pigments,
- with alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide
MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z® and MT-01® from the company Tayca, the
products Solaveil CT-10 W® and Solaveil CT 100® from the company Uniqema
and the product Eusolex T-AVO® from the company Merck,
- with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100 AQ® from the
company Tayca,
- with alumina and aluminium laurate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide
MT 100 S® from the company Tayca,
- with iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT
100 F® from the company Tayca,
- with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product BR 351® from the
company Tayca,
- with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products
Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS®, Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS® or
Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS® from the company Tayca,
- with silica, alumina and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone, such as
the product STT-30-DS® from the company Titan Kogyo,
- with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product UV-Titan X 195® from
the company Sachtleben Pigments,
- with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products Tipaque TTO-55
(S)® from the company Ishihara or UV Titan M 262® from the company
Sachtleben Pigments,
- with triethanolamine, such as the product STT-65-S from the company Titan
Kogyo,
- with stearic acid, such as the product Tipaque TTO-55 (C)® from the company
Ishihara,
- with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT
150 W® from the company Tayca.
- T1O2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, sold under the trade name T 805® by the
company Degussa Silices,
- T1O2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the trade name 70250
Cardre UF TiO2SI3® by the company Cardre,
- anatase/rutile T1O2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane, sold under the trade
name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic® by the company Color
Techniques.
Mention may also be made of T1O2 pigments doped with at least one transition
metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese.
Preferably, the said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil
present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including
those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may
also comprise one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance
sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for
instance TRI-PPG3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate.
Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one
dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention
may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of T1O2 particles doped with
manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3
myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate
having the INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate
(and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for instance the product
sold under the trade name Optisol TD50® by the company Croda.
The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company
Tayca under the trade names Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium
Dioxide MT 600 B®, by the company Degussa under the name P 25, by the
company Wackher under the name Transparent Titanium Oxide PW®, by the
company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR®, by the company Tomen under
the name ITS® and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ®.
The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
- those sold under the name Z-Cote by the company Sunsmart;
- those sold under the name Nanox® by the company Elementis;
- those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025® by the company Nanophase
Technologies.
The coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
- those sold under the name Zinc Oxide CS-5® by the company Toshibi (ZnO
coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
- those sold under the name Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN® by the company
Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alkyl
benzoate);
- those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-30® and Daitopersion Zn-50® by the
company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane/oxyethylenated
polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and
polymethylhydrogenosiloxane);
- those sold under the name NFD Ultrafine ZnO® by the company Daikin (ZnO
coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl
as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane);
- those sold under the name SPD-Z1® by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated
with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
- those sold under the name Escalol Z 100® by the company ISP (alumina-treated
ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene
copolymer/methicone mixture);
- those sold under the name Fuji ZnO-SMS-1 0® by the company Fuji Pigment
(ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);
- those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN® by the company Elementis (ZnO
dispersed at a concentration of 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic
acid polycondensate).
The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the
name Colloidal Cerium Oxide® by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
The uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud
under the names Nanogard WCD 2002® (FE 45B®), Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL
AQ®, Nanogard FE 45R AQ® and Nanogard WCD 2006® (FE 45R®) or by the
company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220®.
The coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud
under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®, Nanogard WCD 2009®
(FE 45B 556®), Nanogard FE 45 BL 345® and Nanogard FE 45 BL® or by the
company BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide®.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium
dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium
dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company Ikeda under
the name Sunveil A®, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide
coated with alumina, silica and silicone, such as the product M 261® sold by the
company Sachtleben Pigments, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol, such
as the product M 2 11® sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments.
According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are
particularly preferred.
The additional UV-screening agents according to the invention are preferably
present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from
0.1 % to 45% by weight and in particular from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
b) Other additives:
The compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise
conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen in particular from organic solvents, ionic
or nonionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients,
silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic,
zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants,
basifying or acidifying agents or any other ingredient commonly used in the
cosmetic and/or dermatological field.
Mention may be made, among organic solvents, of alcohols other than Ci-C4
monoalcohols as defined above and in particular short-chain C2-C8 polyols, such
as glycerol or diols, such as caprylyl glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, propanediol,
butanediol, glycols and glycol ethers, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol,
butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
Mention may be made, as thickeners, of carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the
Carbopols® (Carbomers) and the Pemulens, such as Pemulen TR1® and
Pemulen TR2® (acrylate/C 10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for
instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (CTFA
name: polyacrylamide /Ci 3-i 4 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name:
acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate
80) by the company SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as the
poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst
under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® (CTFA name: ammonium
polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or Simulgel 800®, sold by the company SEPPIC
(CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate/polysorbate 80/sorbitan oleate);
copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl
acrylate, such as Simulgel NS® and Sepinov EMT 10®, sold by the company
SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives, such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides
and in particular gums, such as xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible
silicone derivatives, such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic
silicones, and mixtures thereof.
Among the acidifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include mineral or
organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid,
carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, and
sulfonic acids.
Among the basifying agents, examples that may be mentioned include aqueous
ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and
triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium hydroxide or potassium
hydroxide.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more basifying agents
selected from alkanolamines, in particular triethanolamine, and sodium hydroxide.
In the case of a direct emulsion, the pH of the composition in accordance with the
invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, preferably between 5 and
11 approximately and more particularly still from 6 to 8.5.
Among the active agents for caring for keratin materials such as the skin, the lips,
the scalp, the hair, the eyelashes or the nails, examples that may be mentioned
include:
- vitamins and derivatives or precursors thereof, alone or as mixtures;
- antioxidants;
- free-radical scavengers;
- antipollution agents;
- self-tanning agents;
- antiglycation agents;
- calmatives;
- deodorants;
- essential oils;
- NO-synthase inhibitors;
- agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules
and/or for preventing the degradation thereof;
- agents for stimulating fibroblast proliferation;
- agents for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation;
- muscle relaxants;
- refreshing agents;
- tensioning agents;
- mattifying agents;
- depigmenting agents;
- propigmenting agents;
- keratolytic agents;
- desquamating agents;
- moisturizers;
- antiinflammatory agents;
- antimicrobial agents;
- slimming agents;
- agents acting on the energy metabolism of cells;
- insect repellents;
- substance P or CGRP antagonists;
- hair-loss counteractants;
- antiwrinkle agents;
- antiageing agents.
A person skilled in the art will select the said active principle(s) according to the
effect desired on the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the nails.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the
abovementioned optional additional compound(s) and/or the amounts thereof such
that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions in
accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected
by the envisaged addition(s).
GALENICAL FORMS
The compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the
techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art. They may in particular be
in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W), such
as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.
They may also be in anhydrous form, for instance in the form of an oil. The term
"anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 1% by weight
of water, or even less than 0.5% water, and especially free of water, the water not
being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the
residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. They may optionally be
packaged in aerosol form and may be in the form of a mousse or a spray.
In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the
emulsification processes that may be used are of the paddle or impeller, rotorstator
and HPH type.
In order to obtain stable emulsions with a low content of polymer (oil/polymer ratio
> 25), it is possible to prepare the dispersion in concentrated phase and then to
dilute the dispersion with the remainder of the aqueous phase.
It is also possible, by means of an HPH (between 50 and 800 bar), to obtain stable
dispersions with droplet sizes that may be as low as 100 nm.
The emulsions generally comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric,
anionic, cationic and nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The
emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained
(W/O or O/W).
Examples of W/O emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned include alkyl
esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; silicone surfactants,
for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cydomethicone and of
dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C® by the company Dow
Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold
under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning;
cetyldimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM
90R® by the company Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyldimethicone copolyol,
of polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and of hexyl laurate, sold under the name Abil
WE O9® by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers may also be
added thereto, which may be chosen advantageously from the group consisting of
polyol alkyl esters.
Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular
alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.
Polyol alkyl esters that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol
esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under
the name Arlacel P 135® by the company ICI.
Examples of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include
polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34®
by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under
the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as
the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures
thereof.
For the O/W emulsions, examples of nonionic emulsifying surfactants that may be
mentioned include polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated
and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated
esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular
polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in
combination with an ester of fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-1 00
Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name
Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of
fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol
and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside
and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example, by the company Henkel under the
respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetearyl glucoside,
optionally as a mixture with cetearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name
Montanov 68® by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tegocare CG90® by the
company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by the company
Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of
arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside sold under the name
Montanov 202® by the company SEPPIC. According to a particular embodiment of
the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the
corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition,
for example as described in document WO-A-92/06778.
When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a
nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham,
Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol., 13, 238 ( 1965), FR 2 3 15 991 and FR 2 4 16
008).
The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large
number of treatments, especially cosmetic treatments, of the skin, the lips and the
hair, including the scalp, especially for protecting and/or caring for the skin, the lips
and/or the hair, and/or for making up the skin and/or the lips.
Another subject of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions
according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of cosmetic
products for treating the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the
eyebrows and/or the scalp, especially care products, antisun products and
makeup products.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example,
as makeup products.
Another subject of the present invention consists of a non-therapeutic cosmetic
process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, which consists in
applying, to the surface of the said keratin material, at least one composition
according to the invention as defined above.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be used, for example,
as care products and/or antisun products for the face and/or body with a liquid to
semi-liquid consistency, such as milks, more or less smooth creams, cream gels
or pastes. They may optionally be packaged in aerosol form and may be in the
form of a mousse or a spray.
The compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions
in accordance with the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of
fine particles by means of pressurization devices. The devices in accordance with
the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and comprise non-aerosol
pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol
pumps using compressed air as propellant. These devices are described in
patents US 4 077 441 and US 4 850 5 7 .
The compositions packaged in aerosol form in accordance with the invention
generally contain conventional propellants, for instance hydrofluoro compounds,
dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane,
propane or trichlorofluoromethane. They are preferably present in amounts
ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
ASSEMBLY
According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly
comprising:
i) a container delimiting one or more compartment(s), the said container being
closed by a closing member and optionally being unsealed; and
ii) a makeup and/or care composition in accordance with the invention placed
inside the said compartment(s).
The container may be, for example, in the form of a jar or a box.
The closing member may be in the form of a lid comprising a cap mounted so as
to be able to move by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing
the said makeup and/or care composition(s).
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being
limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the composition ingredients
are given as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES
A. Examples of preparation of merocvanine UV-absorbing agents
122.23 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)annino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one were alkylated with
dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 75.45 g of
ethyl cyanoacetate in approximately equimolar proportions in the presence of a
base and optionally of a solvent.
The following base/solvent combinations were used:
The completion of the alkylation reaction was monitored, for example, via methods
such as TLC, GC or HPLC.
162.30 g of compound (14) are obtained in the form of a brown oil.
After crystallization, the product was obtained in the form of yellowish crystals.
Melting point: 92.7°C
148.4 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)annino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one were alkylated with
dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 130.00 g of 2-
ethoxyethyl cyanoacetate in the presence of an organic base and a solvent.
The following base/solvent combinations were used:
Example A3 (outside the invention): Preparation of the compound (2Z)-2-
cvano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-(3 -r(3-methoxypropyl)amino1cvclohex-2-en-1-
ylidene!ethanamide described in the unpublished patent application PCT/EP
2012/064 195
10 1.00 g of 3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]-2-cyclohexen-1-one were alkylated with
dimethyl sulfate or alternatively with diethyl sulfate and treated with 86.00 g of 2-
cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)acetamide in approximately equimolar proportions in
the presence of a base and optionally of a solvent.
The following base/solvent combinations were used:
Example Base Solvent
DBU ( 1 ,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7- dimethylacetamide
Example A3.1
ene)
Example A3.2 triethylamine isopropanol
Example A3.3 3-methoxypropylamine isopropanol
Example A3.4 3-methoxypropylamine tert-amyl alcohol
Example A3.5 3-methoxypropylamine toluene
Example A3.6 3-methoxypropylamine dimethylformamide
Example A3.7 3-methoxypropylamine no solvent
The crude product (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-
methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1 -ylidene}ethanamide was obtained in the
form of a dark brown oil. After chromatography on a column of silica gel (eluent:
5 99/1 toluene/methanol), 8 1.8 g of product are obtained in the form of yellowish
crystals.
Melting point: 84.7-85.3°C.
B. 1 Formulation examples 1 to 4
0
The compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-
en-1 -ylidene} (2) of the invention was compared with:
the compound (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-
methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1 -ylidene}ethanamide according to Example
5 A3 (outside the invention)
- the compound octyl-5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate
(outside the invention) ,
- the merocyanine compound MC1 1 disclosed in the application WO2008/090066
(outside the invention).
0
Formulations 1 to 4 below were prepared; they were constructed such that the
sum of the contents of oil and of liposoluble UV-screening agents remains
constant. The content of the screening agents was adjusted so as to ensure the
same level of UVB screening and also the same in vitro SPF, and also the same
5 absorbance profile between 290 and 340 nm. For each of the formulations, the in
vitro SPF, the in vitro UVAPPD index and the absorbance after 24 hours at room
temperature and after 10 days at 60°C were measured.
Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation
Phase INCI name (oinuvtseind1teiotnh)e (oinuvtseindteiotnh)e (oinuvtseindteiotnh)e (inve4ntion)
Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100
Glycerol 6 6 6 6
Disodium EDTA 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1
A
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
1 1 1 1
(Amphisol K®)
Triethanolamine 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45
2-Ethylphenyl benzoate
19.4 18.5 18.2 18.1
(X-Tend 226®)
Octocrylene (UVINUL N539®) 8 8.5 8.5 8.5
B
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane
2.6 2 2 2
(Parsol 1789®)
Octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2- - 1 - -
phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate
(2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-
methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-
1.3
methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-
en-1 -ylidene}ethanamide
Compound (2) - - - 1.4
Stearic Acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-1 00
1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
stearate (Arlacel 165)
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Preservatives 1.28 1.28 1.28 1.28
c Isohexadecane 2 2 2 2
Xanthan gum 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Acrylates/CI O-30 alkyl acrylate
0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
crosspolymer (Pemulen TR1®)
D Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
E Alcohol 2 2 2 2
in vitro SPF (t24h) 15.1 ± 2.3 13.6 ± 1.8 11.2 ± 1.6 11.8 ± 3.1
in vitro UVAPpD (t2 4h) 10.4 ± 1.3 11.6 ± 1.5 10.3 ± 1.4 10.8 ± 2.7
The formulations 5 to 9 below were prepared. The content of the filters was
constant in order to compare the performance of the compound (2) to the one of
(2Z)-2 -cyano-N-(3-methoxy-propyl)-2-{3-[(3-meth-oxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-
5 1-ylidene}-ethanamide according to example A 3 (outside the invention) and to the
one of the compound MC1 1 disclosed in the application WO2008/090066 (outside
the invention) at the same content. For the formulations 5 and 6 , SPF, UVA PPD
index and absorbance were measured after one week at room temperature and
after 45 days at 45°C. The amounts are expressed in % by weight relative to the
0 total weight of the composition.
Formulation 5 Formulation 6 Phase Ingredients (oinuvtseindteiotnh)e (invention)
Water qsp 100 qsp 100
Glycerin 5 5
Disodium EDTA 0 .1 0 .1
A
Triethanolamine 0.45 0.45
Potassium Cetyl
1 1
Phosphate(Amphisol K®)
Isopropyl Lauroyl
Sarcosinate (Eldew SL- 20 20
B 205®)
Octocrylene (UVINUL
10 10
N539®)
Butyl
Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2 2
(PARSOL 1789®)
(2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-
methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-
methoxypropyl)annino]cycloh 2 -
ex-2-en-1 -
ylidene}ethanamide
Compound (2) - 2
Stearic Acid 1.5 1.5
Glyceryl Stearate (and)
PEG-1 00 Stearate (Arlacel 2.5 2.5
165®)
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5
Cetyl Alcohol 0.5 0.5
Cetearyl Alcohol (and)
Cetearyl Glucoside 2 2
(Montanov 68®)
Preservatives 1 1
Isohexadecane 1 1
Xanthan Gum 0.2 0.2
c Acrylates / C 10-C30 Alkyl
Acrylate crosspolymer 0.2 0.2
(Pemulen TR1®)
D Triethanolamine 0,2 0,2
SPF in vitro (ti w ) 44.6 ± 6.3 35.4 ± 3.1
UVA ppD in vitro (ti w ) 47.9 ± 6.0 34.8 ± 3.1
SPF in vitro (t4 5d 45°c) 27.5 ± 4.8 35.8 ± 8.2
UVA PPD in vitro (t4 5d 45°c) 29.7 ± 5,2 36.2 ± 7.8
Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation 7 8 Qy
Phase Ingredients (inve6ntion) (oinuvtseindteiotnh)e (oinuvtseindteiotnh)e (oinuvtseindteiotnh)e
Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100
Glycerin 5 5 5 5
Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
A
Triethanolamine 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45
Potassium Cetyl
1 1 1 1
Phosphate(Amphisol K®)
Isopropyl Lauroyl
B Sarcosinate (Eldew SL- 20 20 30 30
205®)
Octocrylene (UVINUL
10 10 - -
N539®)
Butyl
Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2 2 - -
(PARSOL 1789®)
Compound (2) 2 - 2 -
MC1 of WO2008/090066 - 2 - 2
Stearic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
Glyceryl Stearate (and)
PEG-1 00 Stearate (Arlacel 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5
65®)
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Cetyl Alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Cetearyl Alcohol (and)
Cetearyl Glucoside 2 2 2 2
(Montanov 68®)
Preservatives 1 1 1 1
Isohexadecane 1 1 1 1
Xanthan Gum 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
c Acrylates / C 10-C30 Alkyl
Acrylate crosspolymer 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
(Pemulen TR1®)
D Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Emulsion preparation method:
The aqueous phase A and oily phase B were prepared by mixing the starting
materials with mechanical stirring at 80°C. Once the aqueous solution A and oily
solution B were macroscopically homogeneous, the emulsion was prepared by
introducing phase B into phase A with stirring using a rotor-stator homogenizer at
a stirring speed of 4500 rpm for 20 minutes. Phases C and then D were then
successively added, with continued stirring. The emulsion was finally cooled to
room temperature before adding phase E. The final emulsion was characterized
by drops between 1 miti and 20 miti in size.
in vitro protocol for evaluating the screening efficacy
The sun protection factor (SPF) was determined according to the in vitro method
described by B.L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-1 33 ( 1989). The
measurements were carried out using a UV-1 000S spectrophotometer from the
company Labsphere. The "static in vitro protection factor (SPF)" value is extracted.
Each composition is applied to a rough plate of PMMA in the form of a uniform and
even deposit in a proportion of 1 mg/cm2.
The in vitro UVA PPD index measurements were taken under the same conditions
using a UV - 1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. The "UV
APPD index (persistent pigment darkening action spectrum)" value is extracted.
Each composition is applied to a rough plate of PMMA, in the form of a uniform
and even deposit in a proportion of 1 mg/cm 2.
Protocol for evaluating the absorbance spectra of the formulations
The absorbance spectra of the formulations were extracted from the mAF data as
a function of the wavelength generated during the in vitro SPF measurement and
the in vitro UVAPPD index measurement. The mAF values were then converted into
absorbance values according to: Abs= log(mAF).
Absorbance of the formulations measured 24 hours after formulation
Absorbance of the formulations measured after 10 days at 60°C
Conclusions
The absorbance values measured at 400 nm, 24 hours after formulation, show
that for the same SPF and the same in vitro UVAPPD index, formulations 1 and 2
are less efficient than formulations 3 and 4 .
The absorbance values measured at 400 nm, after 10 days at 60°C, show that for
the same SPF and the same in vitro UVAPpD index, formulation 3 is less efficient
than formulation 4 of the invention.
Absorbance of the formulations 5 and 6 measured after 1 week of storage at
room temperature
Absorbance of the formulations 5 and 6 measured after 45 days at 45°C
The SPF and UV-APpD indexes in vitro measured on the formulations 5 and 6 show
that the efficiency in UVB and UVA radiations was maintained in the time and in
temperature for the formulation 6 according to the invention whereas the efficiency
degraded for the formulation 5 (outside the invention).
Furthemore, the absorbance values measured at 400nm on the formulations 5 and
6 after 1 week at room temperature show that formulation 5 was significantly less
efficient in the long UVA than the formulation 6 according to the invention. This
effect is more pronounced after 45 days of storage at 45°C
Protocol for evaluating the color of the formulations
The color of the formulations was evaluated after preparation of thin films on
contrast map. The formulations were deposited within a circle of 2.2 cm of
diameter and planed to obtain thicknesses of reproducible deposit. The
colorimetric measures were then made by means of a spectro-colorimeter Minolta
CM2600D in two points of the film. This operation is twice reproduced, which leads
to 4 experimental values by formulation.
The results are expressed in the system (L * , has * , b *) in which L* represents the
luminance, a* represents the red-green axis (-a* = green, +a* = red) and b*
represents the yellow-blue axis (-b* blue, +b* yellow). So, a* and b* express the
shade of the compound.
The difference of color D E* was calculated from the variations L*, a* et b*
between the compound (2) and the compound MC1 1 with the following equation :
(DE*)2 = (AL*)2 + (Aa*)2 + (Ab*)2
D I_* = formulation with compound MC1 1 formulation with compound (2)
Aa* = formulation with compound MC1 1 formulation with compound (2)
Ab* = b formulation with compound MC1 1 b formulation with compound (2)
We consider that the difference of color between the two compounds is significant
if AE* > 2 .
Colorimetric measures on the formulations 6 to 9
The colorimetry results on the examples 6 to 9 show that the formulation 6 with the
compound (2) is significantly less yellow than the equivalent formulations 7, 8 and
9 with the compound MC1 1 of the application WO2008/ 090066.
B. 2 Formulation examples 10 to 14
The compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-
en-1 -ylidene} (2) of the invention was compared with:
5 - the compound (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-
methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1 -ylidene}ethanamide according to Example
A3 (outside the invention)
- the compound octyl-5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate
(outside the invention) ,
0 - the merocyanine compound MC1 1 disclosed in the application WO2008/090066
(outside the invention).
Formulations 10 to 13 below were prepared; they were constructed such that the
sum of the contents of oil and of liposoluble UV-screening agents remains
5 constant. The content of the screening agents was adjusted so as to ensure the
same level of UVB screening and also the same in vitro SPF, and also the same
absorbance profile between 290 and 340 nm. For each of the formulations, the in
vitro SPF, the in vitro UVAPPD index and the absorbance after 24 hours at room
temperature and after 10 days at 60°C were measured. The amounts are
o expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
Formulation
Formulation Formulation Formulation
10
11 12 13
Phase Ingredients (outside the
(outside the (outside the (invention)
invention)
invention) invention)
Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100
Glycerol 6 6 6 6
A
Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Triethanolamine 3.1 5 3.1 5 3.1 5 3.1 5
Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic
4 4 4 4
acid (Eusolex 232®)
Potassium cetyl phosphate
1 1 1 1
(Amphisol K®)
2-Ethylphenyl benzoate (X-
26 25.7 25.5 25.3
Tend 226®)
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmeth
4 3.5 3.5 3.5
ane (Parsol 1789®)
B Octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2-
phenylsulfonyl-2,4- - 0.8 - -
pentadienoate
(2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-
- - 1 -
methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-
methoxypropyl)annino]cycloh
ex-2-en-1 -
ylidene}ethanamide
Compound (2) - - - 1.2
Stearic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-
100 stearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
(Arlacel 165®)
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Preserving agents 1.28 1.28 1.28 1.28
c Isohexadecane 2 2 2 2
Xanthan gum 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Acrylates/CI O-30 Alkyl
Acrylate crosspolymer 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
(Pemulen TR1®)
D Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
E Alcohol 2 2 2 2
in vitro SPF 5.2 ± 0.6 4.6 ± 0.9 4.3 ± 0.7 5.4 ± 0.5
in vitro UVAPpD 13.9 ± 2.8 14.7 ± 4.2 15.4 ± 4.1 2 1.3 ± 3.2
For the formulations 13 and 14 below, the content of the filters was constant in
order to compare the performance of the compound (2) according to the invention
to the one of the compound MC1 1 disclosed in the application WO2008/090066
5 (outside the invention) at the same content. The amounts are expressed as weight
percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
Formulation
Formulation 14
Phase Ingredients 13 (outside the
(invention) invention)
Water qsp 100 qsp 100
Glycerin 6 6
A
Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1
Triethanolamine 3.1 5 3.1 5
Phenylbenzimidazole 4 4
Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232®)
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
1 1
(Amphisol K®)
2-Ethylphenyle benzoate
25.3 25.3
B (X-Tend 226®)
Butyl 3.5 3.5
Methoxyd ibenzoylmethane
(PARSOL 1789®)
Compound (2) 1.2 -
MC1 1 of WO2008/090066 - 1.2
Stearic Acid 1.5 1.5
Glyceryl Stearate (and)
PEG-1 00 Stearate 1.5 1.5
(Arlacel 165®)
Dimethicone 0,5 0,5
Preservatives 1,28 1,28
c Isohexadecane 2 2
Xanthan gum 0.1 0.1
Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate crosspolymer 0.25 0.25
(Pemulen TR1®)
D Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25
E Alcohol 2 2
Emulsions 10 to 14 were prepared according to the same preparation mode as for
Examples 1 to 9 .
The in vitro SPF and UVA PPD index values were measured under the same
conditions indicated previously.
Protocol for evaluating the absorbance spectra of the formulations
The absorbance spectra of the formulations were extracted from the mAF data as
a function of the wavelength generated during the in vitro SPF measurement and
the in vitro UVA PPD index measurement. The mAF values were then converted into
absorbance values according to: Abs= log(mAF).
Absorbance of the formulations measured 24 hours after formulation
Formulation Formulation Formulation
Formulation
10 11 12
Absorbance 13
(outside the (outside the (outside the
(invention)
invention) invention) invention)
Absorbance at 290 nm (t24 ) 0.70 ± 0.06 0.64 ± 0.09 0.61 ± 0.08 0.73 ± 0.04
Absorbance at 320 nm (t24 ) 0.86 ± 0.06 0.78 ± 0.1 1 0.77 ± 0.1 0 0.88 ± 0.05
Absorbance at 400 nm (t24 ) 0.08 ± 0.01 0.1 5 ± 0.03 0.44 ± 0.05 0.65 ± 0.03
Conclusions
The in vitro UVA PPD value and the absorbance value at 400 nm measured 24
hours after formulation show that for the same in vitro SPF and a similar
absorbance profile in the UVB range (from 290 to 320 nm), the
phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid/butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane combination
(Formulation 10) is significantly less protective than the
phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid/butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane/merocyanine
combination of the invention (Formulation 13).
The phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid/phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic
acid/compound 2 combination of the invention (Formulation 13) differs from the
phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid/phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid/octyl 5-N,Ndiethylamino-
2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate combination (Formation 11) and
the phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid/phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid/(2Z)-2-
cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-
ylidene}ethanamide combination (Formulation 12) by a significantly higher
absorbance at 400 nm measured 24 hours after formulation for comparable in vitro
SPF and UVA- PPDvalues.
Colorimetric measures on the formulations 13 and 14
The colorimetric measurements on the formulations 13 and 14 were made in the
same conditions as previously indicated.
The colorimetry results on the examples 13 and 14 show that the formulation 13
with the compound (2) is significantly less yellow than the equivalent formulation
14 with the compound MC1 1 of the application WO2008/ 090066.
B. 3 Formulation examples 15 to 2 1
The compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-
en-1 -ylidene} (2) of the invention was compared with:
5 - the compound (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-
methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1 -ylidene}ethanamide according to
Example A3 (outside the invention)
- the compound octyl-5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate
(outside the invention)
0
Formulations 15 to 18 below were prepared; they were constructed such that the
sum of the contents of oil and of liposoluble UV-screening agents remains
constant. The content of the screening agents was adjusted so as to ensure the
same level of UVB screening and also the same in vitro SPF, and also the same
5 absorbance profile between 290 and 340 nm. For each of the formulations, the in
vitro SPF, the in vitro UVAPPD index and the absorbance after 24 hours at room
temperature were measured.
Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation
15 16 Phase Ingredients (ionuvtesnidtieonth)e (oinuvtseindteiotnh)e (oinuvtse1ind7teiotnh)e (inve1n8tion)
Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100
Glycerin 6 6 6 6
Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
A
Potassium cetyl phosphate
1 1 1 1
(Amphisol K®)
Triethanolamine qs pH 8.5 qs pH 8.5 qs pH 8.5 qs pH 8.5
Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulf
onic acid,
5.2 4.8 4.8 4.8
(Mexoryl SX®)
(% active material)
2-Ethylphenyl benzoate
18.8 17.5 17 16.8
(X-Tend 226®)
Ethylhexyl triazone
1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
(Uvinul T 150®)
Octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2-
phenylsulfonyl-2,4- - 1.3 - -
B
pentadienoate
(2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-
methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-
- - 1.8 -
methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-
2-en-1 -ylidene}ethanamide
Compound (2) - - - 2
Stearic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-
1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
100 stearate (Arlacel 165®)
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Preservatives 1.28 1.28 1.28 1.28
c Isohexadecane 2 2 2 2
Xanthan gum 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Acrylates/CI O-30 alkyl acrylate
0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
crosspolymer (Pemulen TR1®)
D Triethanolamine 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
E Alcohol 2 2 2 2
in vitro SPF 7.2 ± 0.4 9.0 ± 1.4 7.9 ± 1 8.1 ± 0.9
in vitro UVAPpD 2.2 ± 0.1 6.6 ± 0.8 4.9 ± 0.6 5.3 ± 0.5
The formulations 19 to 2 1 below were prepared. The content of the filters was
constant in order to compare the performance of the compound (2) to the one of
(2Z)-2 -cyano-N-(3-methoxy-propyl)-2-{3-[(3-meth-oxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-
5 1-ylidene}-ethanamide according to example A 3 (outside the invention) and to the
one of the compound MC1 1 disclosed in the application WO2008/090066 (outside
the invention) at the same content. For the formulations 20 and 2 1, SPF, UVA PPD
index and absorbance were measured after one week at room temperature and
after 45 days at 45°C. The amounts are expressed in % by weight relative to the
0 total weight of the composition.
Formulation Formulation
19 Phase Ingredients (oinuvtseindteiotnh)e (inve2n0tion)
Water qsp 100 qsp 100
Glycerin 5 5
Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1
A
Triethanolamine 0.45 0.45
Potassium Cetyl
1 1
Phosphate(Amphisol K®)
Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
30 30
(Eldew SL-205®)
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
(Mexoryl XL)
B Ethyl hexyl Triazone
1.5 1.5
(Uvinul T 150 ®)
(2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-
methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3- 2 -
methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohe
x-2-en-1 -ylidene}ethanannide
Compound (2) - 2
Stearic acid 1.5 1.5
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-
2.5 2.5
100 Stearate (Arlacel 165®)
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5
Cetyl Alcohol 0.5 0.5
Cetearyl Alcohol (and)
Cetearyl Glucoside 2 2
(Montanov 68®)
Preservatives 1 1
Isohexadecane 1 1
Xanthan gum 0.2 0.2
c Acrylates / C 10-C30 Alkyl
Acrylate crosspolymer 0.2 0.2
(Pemulen TR1®)
D Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2
SPF in vitro (ti w ) 33.6 ± 5.0 26.5 ± 5.0
UVA ppD in vitro (ti w ) 25.9 ± 3.2 17.6 ± 3.3
SPF in vitro (t4 5d 45°c) 32.2 ± 7.0 28.4 ± 2.7
UVA PPD in vitro (t4 5d 45°c) 19,2 ± 2,5 18.6 ± 1.6
Formule 2 1 Formule 20
Phase Ingredients (invention) (oinuvtseindteiotnh)e
Water qsp 100 qsp 00
Glycerin 5 5
Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1
A
Triethanolamine 0.45 0.45
Potassium Cetyl
1 1
Phosphate(Amphisol K®)
Isopropyl LauroyI Sarcosinate
30 30
(Eldew SL-205®)
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
(Mexoryl XL)
Ethyl hexyl Triazone
1,5 1,5
(Uvinul T 150 ®)
B
Compound (2) 2 -
MC1 1 of WO2008/090066 - 2
Stearic acid 1.5 1.5
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-
2.5 2.5
100 Stearate (Arlacel 165®)
Dimethicone 0.5 0.5
Cetyl Alcohol 0.5 0.5
Cetearyl Alcohol (and)
Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 2 2
68®)
Preservatives 1 1
Isohexadecane 1 1
Xanthan Gum 0.2 0.2
c Acrylates / C 10-C30 Alkyl
Acrylate crosspolymer 0.2 0.2
(Pemulen TR1®)
D Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2
Emulsions 15 to 2 1 were prepared according to the same preparation mode as for
Examples 1 to 4 .
The in vitro SPF and UVAPpD index values were measured under the same
conditions indicated previously.
Protocol for evaluating the absorbance spectra of the formulations
The absorbance spectra of the formulations were extracted from the mAF data as
a function of the wavelength generated during the in vitro SPF measurement and
the in vitro UVAPpD index measurement. The mAF values were then converted into
absorbance values according to: Abs= log(mAF).
Absorbance of the formulations 15 to 18 measured 24 hours after
formulation
Conclusions
The absorbance values and the in vitro UVAPpD values measured at t24 show that
for the same absorbance profile in the UVB range and for the same in vitro SPF,
formulation 15 without merocyanine is significantly less efficient than formulation
18 in terms of protection against UVA.
The absorbance values measured at 400 nm at t h also show that for the same
absorbance profile in the UVB range, for the same in vitro SPF and the same in
vitro UVAPPD index, formulations 16 and 17 containing a merocyanine outside the
invention (respectively, the compounds octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-
2,4-pentadienoate or (2Z)-2-cyano-N-(3-methoxypropyl)-2-{3-[(3-
methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1 -ylidene}ethanamide) are significantly less
efficient in terms of protection against long UVA than formulation 18 containing the
compound 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1 -
ylidene}ethanoate (2) of the invention.
Absorbance of formulations 19 et 20 measured after one week of storage at
room temperature
Absorbance of formulations 19 et 20 measured after 45 days at 45°C
The in vitro UV-A PPD indexes measured on the formulations 19 and 20 show that
the efficiency in UVA radiations was maintained in the time and in temperature for
the formulation 20 according to the invention whereas the efficiency degraded for
the formulationl 9 (outside the invention).
Furthermore, the absorbance values measured at 400nm on the formulations 19
and 20 after 45 days of storage at 45°C show that formulation 19 was significantly
less efficient in the long UVA than the formulation 20 according to the invention.
Colorimetric measures on the formulations 20 and 2 1
The colorimetric measurements on the formulations 20 and 2 1 were made in the
same conditions as previously indicated.
The colorimetry results on the examples 20 and 2 1 show that the formulation 20
with the compound (2) is significantly less yellow than the equivalent formulation
2 1 with the compound MC1 1 of the application WO2008/ 090066.

CLAIMS
1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically
acceptable support:
a) at least one oily phase and
b) at least one merocyanine compound of formula ( 1 ) defined hereinbelow
and
c) at least one organic UVB-screening agent chosen from:
i) a liquid lipophilic organic UVB-screening agent
ii) a hydrophilic organic UVB-screening agent
iii) a triazine UVB-screening agent and
iv) mixtures thereof; and
d) at least one organic UVA-screening agent other than the said merocyanine
compound;
when the said UVB-screening agent is liquid and lipophilic, the said composition
contains less than 2% by weight of cyclohexasiloxane relative to the total weight of
the composition.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the merocyanine compound(s) of
formula ( 1 ) are chosen from those in which:
R is a C1-C22 alkyl, which may be interrupted with one or more O.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the merocyanine compound(s)
of formula ( 1 ) are chosen from the following compounds, and also the E/E- or E/Zgeometrical
isomer forms thereof:
4. Connposition according to Clainn 3, in which the merocyanine compound(s) of
formula ( 1) are chosen from the following compounds, and also the E/E- or E/Zgeometrical
isomer forms thereof :
5. Composition according to Claim 4, in which the merocyanine compound is 2-
ethoxyethyl (2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)amino]cyclohex-2-en-1-
ylidene}ethanoate (2) in its E/Z geometrical configuration having the following
structure:
and/or in its E/E geometrical configuration having the following structure:
6. Connposition according to any one of Clainns 1 to 5, in which the liquid organic
UVB-screening agent(s) are chosen from:
- liquid lipophilic b,b-diphenylacrylate connpounds
- liquid lipophilic salicylate connpounds
- liquid lipophilic cinnamate connpounds
- and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to Claim 6, in which the liquid organic UVB-screening
agent(s) are chosen from:
- Octocrylene
- Homosalate,
- Ethylhexyl salicylate
- Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to Claim 7, in which the liquid organic UVB-screening
agent(s) are chosen from:
- Octocrylene
- Ethylhexyl salicylate, and mixtures thereof, and even more particularly
Octocrylene.
9. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the hydrophilic
UVB-screening agent(s) are chosen from:
- hydrophilic cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid;
- hydrophilic benzylidenecamphor compounds;
- hydrophilic phenylbenzimidazole compounds;
- hydrophilic p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds;
- hydrophilic salicylic compounds;
- mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to Claim 9, in which the hydrophilic UVB-screening
agent(s) are chosen from hydrophilic phenylbenzimidazole compounds and more
particularly the compound phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid.
11. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the triazine UVBscreening
agent(s) are chosen from the 1,3,5-triazine derivatives of formula (I)
below
in which the radicals A , A 2 and A 3, which may be identical or different, are chosen
from the groups of formula (II):
in which:
- Xa, which may be identical or different, represent oxygen or an -NH- radical;
- Ra, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a linear or branched C i -
Ci8 alkyl radical; a C5-C12 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more
C i -C4 alkyl radicals; a polyoxyethylenated hydrocarbon-based radical comprising
from 1 to 6 ethylene oxide units and in which the end OH group is methylated; a
radical of formula (III), (IV) or (V) below:
A '— O CH-CH- (IV)
B'- -0-CH -CH- -r H3 (V)
1
in which:
- R i is hydrogen or a methyl radical;
- R2 is a C 1-C9 alkyl radical;
- q is an integer ranging from 0 to 3;
- r is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
- A ' is a C4-Cs alkyl radical or a Cs-Cs cycloalkyl radical;
- B' is chosen from: a linear or branched C 1-C-8 alkyl radical; a Cs-Cs cycloalkyl
radical; an aryl radical optionally substituted with one or more C 1-C4 alkyl radicals;
it being understood that when A , A 2 and A 3 are identical and Xa denotes an
oxygen atom, then Ra represents a branched C6-C18 alkyl radical.
12. Composition according to Claim 11, in which the triazine UVB-screening agent
of formula (I) is chosen from the following compounds:
2-[(p-(tert-butylamido)anilino]-4,6-bis[(p-(2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxycarbonyl)anilin
1,3,5-triazine corresponding to the following formula:
in which R'" denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical and R" denotes a tert-butyl radical;
- 2,4,6-tris[p-(2'-ethylhexyl-1 '-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-1 ,3,5-triazine corresponding to
the following formula:
in which R'" denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical
- mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the triazine
UVB-screening agent(s) are chosen from the silicone triazines of formula (VI)
below, or a tautomeric form thereof
in which:
- R1, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci-C
alkyl radical which is optionally halogenated or unsaturated, a C 6-C12 aryl radical,
C1-C10 alkoxy radical, a hydroxyl radical or the trimethylsilyloxy group;
- a = 1 to 3; in addition to the units of formula A(Si)(R) a(O)(3-a )/2,
- the group (D) denotes an s-triazine compound of formula (VII) below:
in which:
- X represents -O- or -NR 0- , with Rio representing hydrogen or a C 1-C5 alkyl
radical,
- Rs represents a linear or branched C 1-C30 alkyl radical which is optionally
unsaturated and which may comprise a silicon atom, a C5-C20 cycloalkyl group,
optionally substituted with 1 to 3 linear or branched C i -C4 alkyl radicals, the group
-(CH 2C HRio-O) mR n or the group -CH 2-CH(OH)-CH 2-O-Ri 2 ,
- R9 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl radical, a linear or
branched C i -Cs alkyl radical or a C i -Cs alkoxy radical, it being possible for two
adjacent R groups on the same aromatic nucleus together to form an
alkylidenedioxy group in which the alkylidene group contains 1 or 2 carbon atoms,
- R10 represents hydrogen or methyl; it being possible for the group (C=O)XRs to
be in the ortho, meta or para position relative to the amino group,
- R 11 represents hydrogen or a C i -Cs alkyl group,
- Ri 2 represent hydrogen or a C4-Cs alkyl group,
- m is an integer ranging from 2 to 20,
- n = 0 to 2,
- A is a divalent radical chosen from methylene or a group corresponding to one of
the formulae (VI II), (IX), (X) or (XI) below:
(Z) — C H - C H2 — (VI II)
W
(Z) C H (IX)
IC
H
(Z) - C H = C H (X)
C H
(XI )
- (å ) -
in which:
- Z is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1-C10 alkylene diradical,
optionally substituted with a hydroxyl radical or oxygen atoms and optionally
containing an amino group;
- W represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a linear or branched,
saturated or unsaturated C i -Cs alkyl radical; the said organosiloxane compound of
formula (VI) may also comprise units of formula: (R1)b-(Si)(O)(4 -b)/2 in which R1 has
the same meaning as in formula (VI), b = 1, 2 or 3 .
14. Composition according to Claim 13, in which the triazine compounds of
formula (VI) are represented by formula (Via), (Vlb) or (Vic) below:
R13 R 13 R 13
(Via) (B)— Si-O- -Si-O- Si-O- -Si-(B)
I
3 R13 (D) R13
(Vic) (D)-Si(Ri4)3
in which:
- (D) corresponds to formula (VII) as defined in Claim 8,
- Ri3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched Ci-
C20 alkyl, phenyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl and trimethylsilyloxy radicals or the hydroxyl
radical,
- R 4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched Ci-
C20alkyl and alkenyl radicals, hydroxyl radicals or phenyl radicals,
- (B), which may be identical or different, are chosen from the R 13 radicals and the
(D) radical,
- r is an integer between 0 and 200 inclusive,
- s is an integer ranging from 0 to 50 and, if s = 0, at least one of the two (B)
symbols denotes (D),
- u is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
- is an integer ranging from 0 to 10, it being understood that t + u is equal to or
greater than 3, and the tautomeric forms thereof.
15. Composition according to Claim 14, in which the triazine compound of formula
(VI) is the compound 2,4-bis(n-butyl 4'-diylaminobenzoate)-6-{[1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-
1-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl]propyl-3-ylamino}-s-triazine of structure (Vl2) :
Si
16. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, in which the organic
UVA-screening agent(s) are chosen from:
- organic UVA-screening agents of the type (A) which are capable of exclusively
absorbing UV rays between 320 and 400 nm,
- organic UVA-screening agents of the type (B) which are capable of
simultaneously absorbing UV rays between 280 and 320 nm and those between
320 and 400 nm,
- and mixtures thereof.
17. Composition according to Claim 16, in which the organic UVA-screening
agents of the type (A) are chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds; aminosubstituted
hydroxybenzophenone compounds; anthranilic compounds;
benzylidenecamphor compounds; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; bis-benzazolyl
compounds; and mixtures thereof.
18. Composition according to Claim 17, in which the organic UVA-screening
agents of the type (A) are chosen from the following compounds:
- butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane;
- n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate;
- terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.
19. Composition according to Claim 16, in which the organic UVA-screening
agents of the type (B) are chosen from benzophenone compounds;
phenylbenzotriazole compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole)
compounds; bis-resorcinyl triazine compounds; benzoxazole compounds;
symmetrical triazines substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups; and
mixtures thereof.
20. Composition according to Claim 19, in which the organic UVA-screening
agents of the type (B) are chosen from the following compounds:
- Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
- Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous
dispersion of micronized particles,
- Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine,
- Benzophenone-3,
- 2,4,6-Tris(diphenyl)triazine in micronized form,
- and mixtures thereof.
2 1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin
material, comprising the application, to the surface of the said keratin material, of
at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
22. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or
improving the colour and/or the uniformity of the complexion, comprising the
application, to the surface of the skin, of at least one composition as defined in any
one of the preceding claims.
23. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of
ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the
keratin material, of at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding
claims.