"Fatty Acid Based Cream In O/W Emulstion Form"

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains (1) at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty acids chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty acids containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, (2) at least one fatty alcohol chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols containing from 22 to 40 carbon atoms, and (3) at least one basic agent in an amount sufficient for the composition to have a pH ranging from 6 to 9 and for not more than 90% of the fatty acids to be in free form, the composition containing an amount of not more than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of linear or branched saturated fatty acids containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.The composition is in the form of a soft product, especially in the form of a cream.The present invention also relates to the uses of the said composition in cosmetics and dermatology, especially for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin and/or mucous membranes.The invention also relates to a process for preparing this composition.

Information

Applicants

Inventors

Specification

Fatty acid-based cream in 0/W emulsion form
The invention relates to a composition in the form of an 0/W emulsion that is in the form of a cream and contains soaps as surfactants, and to the use of the said composition, in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin of the body or the face, the eyelashes and/or the lips, and/or for caring for the hair.
The invention also relates to a process for preparing this composition.
It is known practice to make cosmetic or dermatological compositions, constituting care creams, which are in the form of 0/W emulsions in which the emulsifier consists of at least partially neutralized fatty acid. Thus, document WO 02/19973 describes compositions of this type. These soap-based creams are not foaming products but rather care creams, which, besides their attractive nacreous appearance, have the advantage of giving a specific cosmetic sensory effect. Specifically, they leave virtually no oily film on the surface of the skin and are characterized by a very dry feel, which is particularly appreciated in hot countries. However, the compositions known hitherto have the drawback of not being able to withstand high temperatures, especially temperatures above 40°C. This means that if they are stored for a few days at this temperature, they undergo fluidization, possibly

leading to macroscopic demixing resulting in separation into at least two phases. Creams that have thus fluidized at a temperature markedly higher than room temperature prove to be heterogeneous after returning to room temperature and are therefore unusable as a result of the degradation of the texture. The term "room temperature" means herein a temperate temperature, i.e. from about 20 to 25°C.
Now, it is essential for this type of product to be stable over a wide temperature range. The reason for this is that, during its service life, the product may be exposed to temperatures ranging up to 50°C or more depending on the climatic, storage and/or transportation conditions. For example, a cream transported in a car that is liable to remain in the sun for a long time, i.e. at a temperature easily reaching 50°C and even 60°C, needs to maintain its stability. These creams also need to be able to be used in hot countries without their transportation and storage posing any problem.
To improve their stability, it is possible to add to these emulsions hydrophilic emulsifiers, these emulsifiers generally having an HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) of greater than or equal to 9. However, attempts are increasingly being made to limit the amount of emulsifier in order to improve the tolerance of the compositions on the skin.

Another solution consists in adding a gelling agent to the aqueous phase to limit the disorganization of the crystal network when the temperature increases. This solution is preferable in theory since gelling agents are generally very sparingly heat-sensitive. However, the addition of such gelling agents does not allow this problem to be solved, as will be seen in a comparative example presented hereinbelow.
There is thus still a need for a fatty acid-based O/W emulsion that is stable up to at least 60°C, which has a viscosity sufficient to constitute a cream, whose cream appearance is maintained at room temperature even after passing to a higher temperature, and which has good stability and the properties required for good skin care, even in the absence of hydrophilic emulsifier, especially of nonionic hydrophilic emulsifier.
The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that the aim of the invention can be achieved and a fatty acid-based cream with good stability, even after passing to temperatures reaching 60°C, can be obtained by using at least 10% fatty acid and by adding a fatty alcohol containing at least 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyl alcohol. In addition, the composition, even though it may contain other fatty acids, must contain fatty acids that give insoluble soaps, preferably C16 to C22 acids such as stearic acid and palmitic acid.

Moreover, a portion of the fatty acids must be in free form, i.e. must not be neutralized, but there must not be more than 90% of the fatty acids in free form.
Admittedly, it is known practice to add fatty alcohols to O/W emulsions containing fatty acids, but it has been found herein that only an alcohol containing at least 22 carbon atoms allows the aim of the invention to be achieved and that the presence of such an alcohol is therefore essential, even if other fatty alcohols may also be present, and that, moreover, the selection of fatty acids is also essential for achieving the aim of the invention.
One subject of the invention is thus a composition for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains (1) at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty acids chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty acids containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, (2) at least one fatty alcohol chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols containing from 22 to 40 carbon atoms, and (3) at least one basic agent in an amount sufficient for the composition to have a pH ranging from 6 to 9 and for not more than 90% of the fatty acids to be in free form, the composition containing an amount of not more than 2% by weight,

relative to the total weight of the composition, of linear or branched saturated fatty acids containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
Since the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with the skin, the lips, the nails, the scalp and/or the hair.
The composition obtained according to the invention shows good stability over time, even at a temperature above room temperature (for example 50°C, or even 60°C).
Moreover, the composition according to the invention has the advantage of giving a matt effect on the skin, and thus of being able to be used as a matting composition.
The composition of the invention is in the form of a more or less fluid cream, i.e. a soft product as opposed to a solid product such as a stick. Thus, this composition has a viscosity at 25°C ranging from about 10 to 150 poises (1 to 15 Pa.s) and preferably from about 15 to 100 poises (1.5 to 10 Pa.s), this viscosity being measured using a Rheomat 180 machine at 25°C with suitable spindles.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention

is free of nonionic hydrophilic emulsifier, i.e. it has an HLB of greater than or equal to 9, and/or is free of hydrophilic amphoteric surfactant. Fatty alcohol
The composition according to the invention contains at least one fatty alcohol chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols containing from 22 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 22 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably a fatty alcohol with a melting point of greater than 60°C. The preferred alcohol is behenyl alcohol.
The fatty alcohol(s) containing from 22 to 40 carbon atoms may be present, for example, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In addition to the alcohol containing from 22 to 40 carbon atoms, the composition may contain one or more fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol). The amount of fatty alcohol(s) containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms may range, for example, from 0.1% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Starting materials in which the alcohol

containing from 22 to 40 carbon atoms, and especially behenyl alcohol, is in a mixture with other fatty alcohols may optionally be used. Fatty acids
The composition according to the invention contains one or more fatty acids chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty acids containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may be chosen in particular from palmitic acid and stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of fatty acid(s) containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms (C16-C30 acids) is at least 10% and may range, for example, from 10% to 50%, preferably from 12% to 40% and better still from 12% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
A portion of the fatty acids is saponified (neutralized) with the basic agent, but a portion must remain in free fatty acid form. The amount of free fatty acid, i.e. unsaponified fatty acid, should be at least 40% and not more than 90% relative to the total amount of fatty acid. The amount of free fatty acid preferably ranges from 40% to 90% by weight and better still from 50% to 90% by weight relative to the total amount of fatty acid.
In addition to the C16-C30 fatty acids, the composition according to the invention may contain

linear or branched saturated fatty acids, containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as myristic acid and lauric acid. However, if they are present, they should not exceed a certain amount that is much lower than that of the C16-C30 acids. The amount of linear or branched saturated fatty acids containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms should be less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; this amount may range from 0 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.0001% to 2% and better still from 0.0001% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Basic agent
Examples of basic agents that may be used include alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), alkaline-earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium hydroxide) and ammonium hydroxide, or organic bases, for instance triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
The basic agent is preferably an alkali metal hydroxide and preferably potassium hydroxide (KOH).
The amount of basic agent should be sufficient for the composition to have a pH ranging from 6 to 9 and preferably from 7 to 8, and for a certain amount of fatty acid to remain in free fatty acid form. This amount of basic agent may range, for

example, from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The basic agent is preferably present in the aqueous phase. Aqueous phase
The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention may range from 40% to 90% by weight and preferably from 50% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It contains at least water, which may constitute all of the aqueous phase or only a portion. However, the amount of water is preferably at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase may contain, besides water, one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible solvents, for instance polyols; C2 to C8 monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; and C3 to C4 ketones that are liquid at room temperature. The term "room temperature" should be understood as meaning a temperature of about 25°C, at normal atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
The term "polyol" should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerol, glycols, for instance

butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and pentylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols, for instance PEG-8, sorbitol, and sugars, for instance glucose.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the amount of water-miscible solvents is preferably less than 10%. It may range, for example, from 0.05% to 9.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase
The oily phase may be present in an amount ranging from 10% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oily phase consists of fatty acids, fatty alcohols and all the other lipophilic constituents and especially the oils that may be present in the composition of the invention.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase contains at least one oil. The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) .
As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:
hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene (or squalane);
synthetic esters and ethers, especially of

fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae F^COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; lipophilic amino acid derivatives, such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (INCI name: isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Eldew SL 205 by the company Ajinomoto;
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as mineral oils (mixture of petroleum-derived hydrocarbon-based oils; INCI name: Mineral oil), volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, and hydrogenated isoparaffin such as the Parleam® oil sold

by the company NOF Corporation (INCI name: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene);
mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase of the composition preferably contains at least one oil chosen from branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated isoparaffin such as Parleam® oil, and mixtures thereof.
The amount of oils may range, for example, from 0.1% to 10% and better still from 0.5% to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amounts of fatty acids and of fatty alcohols are as indicated above. Adjuvants
In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics and/or dermatology, such as active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants and free-radical scavengers, complexing agents, fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, dyestuffs (pigments and dyes) and also lipid vesicles. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the

lipid vesicles.
As fillers that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include talc; zinc oxides; titanium oxides such as titanium dioxide; micas of natural or synthetic origin; calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; silica, in particular spherical silica, silica powder sold under the name Cab-O-Sil TS 530 by the company Cabot, and silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB150 by the company Myoshi; kaolin; glass and ceramic beads sold by the company 3M under the trade name Macrolite; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acid containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; polyamide particles and especially those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; non-expanded synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene powder, polystyrene powder, polyester powder, polyamide (for example nylon or poly-|3-alanine) powder, acrylate copolymer powder (for example the microporous microspheres sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade name Polytrap), polymethacrylic acid powder and Teflon® (polytetrafluoroethylene) powder, for instance the products sold under the names Fluon by the company Uniqema; expanded powders such as

hollow microspheres made of thermoplastic material prepared via known processes, for instance those described in documents US-A-3 615 972 and EP-A-0 56219, and especially the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as corn starch, wheat starch or rice starch, which may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked, such as the powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; fibres; and mixtures thereof.
When they are present, these fillers may be in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes (for example lactoperoxydase, lipase, protease, phospholipase and cellulases); flavonoids; moisturizers such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols, for instance glycerol, glycols, for instance polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; antiinflammatory agents; procyannidol

oligomers; vitamins, for instance vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; oc-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, and derivatives thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; sunscreens; hydrocortisone; melatonin; algal, fungal, plant, yeast or bacterial extracts; steroids; antibacterial active agents, for instance 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or Triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or Triclocarban) and the acids indicated above and especially salicylic acid and its derivatives; matting agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; and mixtures thereof; and any other active agent that is suitable for the final aim of the composition.
The sunscreens may be chosen from organic UV-screening agents, such as the following compounds:
salicylic derivatives and especially ethylhexyl salicylate (or ethyl hexyl salicylate) sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann & Reimer;
dibenzoylmethane derivatives and especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the

trade name Parsol 1798 by Hoffmann LaRoche;
cinnamic derivatives and especially ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffman LaRoche;
P, (3' -diphenylacrylate derivatives and especially octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl a-cyano-p, (3—diphenylacrylate ) sold especially under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF;
phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid;
benzylidenecamphor derivatives, and especially terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid (terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic) sold under the name Mexoryl SX by Chimex, and 4-methylbenzylidine-camphor sold under the trade name Eusolex 6300 by Merck;
benzophenone derivatives, and especially Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF; Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by BASF; Benzophenonone-5;
phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, and especially Benzimidazilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann & Reimer;
triazine derivatives, and especially anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy; ethylhexyl triazone sold especially under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF; and diethylhexyl butamido triazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB

by Sigma 3V;
methylenebiz-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol ;
phenylbenzotriazole derivatives and especially Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the trade name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie;
and mixtures thereof.
The sunscreens may also be chosen from physical sunblocks. As physical sunblocks that may be added to the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments and nanopigments, especially titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof, these oxides possibly being in the form of optionally coated microparticles or nanoparticles (nanopigments).
The amount of active agents depends on the desired aim. The active agent(s) may be present, for example, in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 10% and preferably from 0.01% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.
Moreover, the composition according to the invention may optionally contain one or more gelling polymers such as carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides or polysaccharides. However, the addition of such a polymer is not necessary in order to have good stability. The amount of these polymers may range, for

example, from 0.005% to 2% by weight and better still from 0.01% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. However, the composition may be free of gelling polymer.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional compound(s) to be added to the composition according to the invention and the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not or are not substantially adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a more or less fluid cream, and it may especially constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition. In this case, it finds its application in a large number of treatments, especially cosmetic treatments for the skin, including the scalp, the hair, the nails, and/or mucous membranes, in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up body or facial skin, the eyelashes and/or the lips, and/or for caring for the hair.
Thus, a subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin and/or the lips and/or for caring for the hair.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for treating the skin, including the scalp, the hair and/or the lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the skin, the hair and/or the lips.
Moreover, as indicated above, the composition according to the invention has the advantage of being able to be used as a matting composition. Matting compositions are used to prevent sheen on the skin, which is often associated with substantial secretion of sebum, this being a problem more particularly affecting adolescents, but which may also occur in adults especially under the effect of hyperproduction of androgens. This sheen may also be associated with sweat resulting from physical activity or climatic conditions. However, shiny skin is considered as unattractive, all the more so since it often entails poorer staying power of the makeup, which has a tendency to visually degrade in the course of the day.
Thus, a subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for matting the skin, i.e. for giving the skin a matt appearance, especially for giving shiny skin a matt appearance.
The composition according to the invention may advantageously be prepared by using a particular process, this process consisting in heating the fatty

acids and fatty alcohols (for example to a temperature of about from 70°C to 90°C), mixing the rest of the oily phase therewith, pouring the oily phase into the aqueous phase not containing the basic agent, and mixing the mixture with vigorous stirring, i.e. at stirring speeds ranging from about 1000 to 10 000 rpm, for example using an emulsor, for a time that is sufficient for the emulsion to be formed, for example 5 to 10 minutes, in order to obtain a fine emulsion, followed by adding the basic agent while stirring slowly in order for saponification to take place, and cooling the resulting mixture before optionally adding the fillers or the heat-sensitive active agents.
Another subject of the invention is thus a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, characterized in that the fatty acids and fatty alcohols are heated, the rest of the oily phase is mixed therewith, the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase not containing the basic agent, and the mixture is mixed with vigorous stirring, the basic agent is then added while stirring slowly in order for saponification to take place, and the resulting mixture is cooled before optionally adding the fillers or the heat-sensitive active agents.
The examples below of compositions according to the invention are given as illustrations and with no limiting nature. The amounts therein are given as

weight percentages, unless otherwise mentioned.
Example 1 according to the invention
(Example Removed)

Procedure
Phase Al is heated to 80°C in a tank equipped with an emulsor and phase A2, also brought to 80°C, is added, and the mixture is then poured into the premixed phase B maintained at 80°C with vigorous stirring, for 2 minutes. KOH is then introduced while mixing using

paddles, for 10 minutes, and the resulting mixture is cooled.
The 0/W emulsion obtained is in the form of a thick white cream of nacreous appearance. It remains stable after one month at temperatures of 4°C, 25°C and 45°C. It may be used as a care cream for the skin, to which it gives a very specific dry feel. Example 2 according to the invention
(Example Removed)

Procedure
Phase Al is heated to 80°C in a tank equipped with an emulsor and phase A2, also brought to 80°C, is added, and the mixture is then poured into the premixed phase B maintained at 80°C with vigorous stirring, for 2 minutes. KOH is then introduced while mixing using paddles, for 10 minutes, and the resulting mixture is cooled. Next, phase D is added and the resulting mixture is homogenized to obtain a smooth homogeneous cream.
The O/W emulsion obtained is in the form of a thick white cream of nacreous appearance. It remains stable after one month at temperatures of 4°C, 25°C and 45°C. It may be used as a care cream for the skin, to which it gives a very specific dry feel. Comparative Examples 1 and 2: these comparative examples differ from Example 2 in that they do not contain any behenyl alcohol, this alcohol having been replaced with a gelling agent in Comparative Example 3, and with cetyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol in Comparative Examples 1 and 2.
(Example Removed)
The viscosities were measured using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer after shear for 30 seconds.
This table demonstrates an increase in the viscosity value (after returning to room temperature after storage for one month at 45°C) compared with the initial viscosity at room temperature for the compositions not containing behenyl alcohol, whereas the composition according to the invention (Example 3) has a viscosity that remains stable on returning to room temperature after storage for one month at 45°C.
In addition, Comparative Example 3 shows that the addition of a gelling agent such as hydroxypropyl-cellulose thickens the composition but does not improve the stability of the composition in the case of a variation in temperature.

CLAIMS
1. Composition for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains (1) at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more fatty acids chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty acids containing from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, (2) at least one fatty alcohol chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols containing from 22 to 40 carbon atoms, and (3) at least one basic agent in an amount sufficient for the composition to have a pH ranging from 6 to 9 and for not more than 90% of the fatty acids to be in free form, the composition containing an amount of not more than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of linear or branched saturated fatty acids containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the fatty alcohol containing from 22 to 40 carbon atoms is behenyl alcohol.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty alcohol containing from 22 to 40 carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also

comprises one or more fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms is chosen from palmitic acid and stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of fatty acid(s) containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms ranges from 10% to 50% and preferably from 12% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the basic agent is chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, ammonium hydroxide and organic bases.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of basic agent ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of free fatty acid ranges from 40% to 90% by weight and preferably from 50% to 90% by weight relative to the total amount of fatty acid.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous

phase ranges from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oily phase contains at least one oil chosen from branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it constitutes a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
13. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin and/or the lips and/or for caring for the hair.
14. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, for matting the skin.
15. Cosmetic process for treating the skin, including the scalp, the hair and/or the lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 is applied to the skin, the hair and/or the lips.
16. Process for preparing a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the fatty acids and the fatty alcohols are heated, the rest of the oily phase is mixed therewith, the oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase not containing the basic agent and the mixture is mixed with vigorous stirring, the basic agent is then added

while stirring slowly in order for saponification to take place, and the resulting mixture is cooled before
optionally adding the fillers or the heat-sensitive
i
active agents.

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