Fluid cosmetic composition comprising a monoalcohol
The present invention relates to the field of making up and/or caring for the
skin and is targeted in particular at providing cosmetic compositions, in particular fluid
cosmetic compositions, which are nevertheless stable on storage and in addition capable,
on application, of providing a "fresh" effect. Another subject-matter of the invention is a
corresponding make-up method.
The composition can in particular be a foundation to be applied to the face or
neck, a concealer, a tinted cream and a composition for making up the body.
Foundation compositions are commonly used to contribute an attractive colour
to the skin, in particular to the face, but also to conceal imperfections of the skin, such as
red blotches or blemishes. Many corresponding formulations have to date been developed
which can in particular be differentiated from one another according to whether they have
a fluid structure or a solid structure.
The present invention is more particularly concerned with compositions having
a texture which is sufficiently fluid to be compatible with application with the fingers by
the user. They are generally water-in-oil emulsions which may unfortunately sometimes
have to be rehomogenised by agitation before use in order in particular to redisperse the
pulverulent phase therein, the pulverulent phase which they comprise generally being
present in a large amount. In fact, these compositions can comprise at least 10% by weight,
indeed even more than 20% by weight, of fillers) and/or pigments).
Thus, the document FR-A-2686510 already describes water-in-oil foundation
emulsions comprising, as surfactant, an alkyl dimethicone copolyol, in particular a cetyl
dimethicone copolyol. However, when these fluid emulsions comprise a large amount of
volatile oils, such as, for example, cyclopentasiloxane, they are not stable over time: the
emulsion, after storage for 4 months, indeed even 2 months, at ambient temperature
(25°C), releases oil at the surface of the composition and is thus no longer homogeneous.
What is more, if this type of composition is not agitated, indeed even poorly agitated, the
application of this composition to the skin leaves a feeling of greasiness. In point of fact,
for obvious reasons, this feeling is particularly uncomfortable for the user.
One alternative in compensating for the latter disadvantage is to formulate, in
the aqueous phase of these emulsions, an effective amount of alcohol which has in
particular the effect of providing, on application, a feeling of freshness which is in contrast

particularly apprecitated by the user. Furthermore, an alcohol is naturally endowed with an
antimicrobial activity when a sufficient amount of it is employed. Consequently, it makes
it possible to dispense with or, failing that, to significantly reduce the amounts of chemical
preservatives, such as parabens, the presence of which is required in cosmetic
compositions in order to guarantee that they will remain harmless for a prolonged period of
time.
Unfortunately, these emulsions, which comprise an excessively large amount
of alcohol in their aqueous phase, also present a concern in terms of stability. The
corresponding compositions are naturally subject to a phenomenon of phase separation.
What is more, it becomes difficult to stabilise large amounts of fillers therein. These fillers
have a tendency to settle out.
The aim of the present invention is specifically to provide compositions of
water-in-oil emulsion type which in particular satisfy all the abovementioned requirements.
Thus, according to a first aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is a
fluid care and/or make-up cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion
dedicated to the skin comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase and at least one
dimethicone copolyol, the aqueous phase forming from 40% to 60% by weight of the said
composition and comprising at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the
composition, of at least one monoalcohol of 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
Another subject-matter of the invention is a cosmetic method for making up the
skin, comprising the application, to the said skin, of a composition as defined above.
A further subject-matter of the invention is the use of a lower monoalcohol of 2
to 8 carbon atoms in combination with a dimethicone copolyol in the preparation of a fluid
make-up composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, which composition is
stabilised and capable of providing a feeling of freshness on application to the skin.
The invention is additionally targeted at the use of at least one dimethicone
copolyol for stabilising a cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type comprising
at least 40% by weight of an aqueous phase and comprising at least 5% by weight of at
least one lower monoalcohol of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with respect to the total weight of the
composition.
Thus, unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the compositions according
to the invention prove to exhibit a very good stability at ambient temperature (25°C), in
particular after storing for 2 months or better still for 4 months. They are easily applied to
the skin, are distributed homogeneously over the skin, dry rapidly after application and
provide the user, on application, with a feeling of freshness.
In addition, they prove to be compatible with a homogeneous dispersion of
large amounts of fillers and/or pigments. The compositions according to the invention can
thus comprise up to 10% by weight, indeed even at least 15% by weight and in particular at
least 20% by weight of pulverulent phase.
Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention can additionally
be devoid of gelling agent for oil and/or water or can comprise only a very small amount
thereof, for example less than 2% by weight.
Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "fluid" is understood to
characterise an ability of the composition to flow under its own weight and in particular to
spread when it is deposited on a flat surface.
Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can have a viscosity,
measured at 25°C at a shear rate of 200 min~l (200 revolutions per minute, i.e. a frequency
of 50 Hz), ranging from 0.2 to 2 Pa.s (2 to 20 poises), in particular varying from 0.3 to
1 Pa.s (3 to 10 poises) and preferably ranging from 0.4 to 0.8 Pa.s (4 to 8 poises). Such a
viscosity makes it possible to easily apply the emulsion and to obtain a homogeneous,
uniform and mark-free make-up. The viscosity is measured at 25°C with a Contraves type
TV viscometer equipped with a No. 2 spindle, the measurement being carried out after
rotating the spindle for 10 minutes (time at the end of which the viscosity and the rotational
speed of the spindle are observed to be stable), at a shear rate of 200 min'l.
Pimethicone copolvol
The dimethicone copolyol employed according to the invention is an
oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl(methyl)siloxane.
Use may be made, as dimethicone copolyol, of those corresponding to the
following formula (II):
in which:
Ri, R.2 and R;, represent, independently of one another, a Cj-Ce alkyl radical or a -(CH2)X -
(OCH2CH2)v - (OCH2CH2CH2)Z - OR4 radical, at least one R,, R2 or R3 radical not being
an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a Cj-C, alkyl radical or a C^-Cj acyl radical;
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the
same time;
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of
formula (II), R] = R? = methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an
integer ranging from 4 to 30. R4 is in particular a hydrogen.
Mention may be made, as examples of compounds of formula (II), of the
compounds of formula (III):
(CH,)*SiO - [(CH3)2Si0]A - (CH,SiO)B - Si(CH?)3
I (HI)
(CH2)2-(OCH2CH2)y-OH
in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2
to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
Mention may also be made, as examples of silicone compounds of formula (II),
of the compounds of formula (IV):
HO - (CH2CH2O)v-(CH2)3 - [(CH3)2Si0]A- - (CH2)? - (OCH2CH2)y - OH (IV)
in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
Use may be made, as dimethicone copolyol, of those sold under the names
DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by Dow Corning; and KF-6013,
KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu.
The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of
formula (III) where, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12:
and A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

The dimethicone copolyol can be present in the emulsion according to the
invention in a content ranging from 1 % to 6% by weight, with respect to the total weight of
the emulsion, preferably ranging from 1.5% to 4% by weight and preferentially ranging
from 2% to 3% by weight.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a composition may
comprise a weight ratio of dimethicone copolyoL'aqueous phase ranging form 0.01 to 0.1.
Preferably, a composition of the invention may comprise a weight ratio
dimethicone copolyol/aqueous phase ranging from 0.02 to 0.05.
According to a preferred alternative embodiment of the invention, the
abovementioned dimethicone copolyol can be combined with at least one a,co-substituted
oxyalkylenated silicone.
a.co-Substituted oxvalkvlenated silicone
In everything which follows or which precedes, the term "silicone" is
understood to denote, in conformity with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon
polymer or oligomer with a branched or crosslinked and linear or cyclic structure of
variable molecular weight obtained by polymerisation and/or polycondensation of suitably
functionalised silanes and essentially composed of a repetition of main units in which the
silicon atoms are connected to one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond =Si-O-Si=),
optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to the
said silicon atoms. The commonest hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular
Ci-Cio alkyl radicals and especially methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals and aryl radicals,
in particular phenyl radicals. They can, for example, be substituted by C1-C40 ester or ether
groups or C7-C60 aralkyl groups.
Thus, the a,co-substituted oxyalkylene silicone which can be used according to
the invention is an organosilicon polymer as defined above with a linear structure which is
substituted at the two ends of the main chain by oxyalkylene groups connected to the Si
atoms via a hydrocarbon group.
Preferably, the a,CO-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone corresponds to the
following general formula (I):
in which: R = -(CH2)pO-(C2H4O)x(C.5H6O)vR'
where: - R1 represents H, CH3 or CH2CH?,
- p is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, x varies from 1 to 100 and y varies from 0 to
50.
- it being possible for the (C2H4O) and (C3H6O) units to be distributed randomly
or in blocks,
- the R" radicals represent a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical,
- 5 < m < 300.
Preferably, the a,co-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone used according to the
present invention corresponds to the general formula (1) for which only the R" radicals are
methyl radicals and:
- p ranges from 2 to 4,
- x ranges from 3 to 100,
- m ranges from 50 to 200.
Preferably again, the average molecular weight of R ranges from 800 to 2600.
Preferably, the ratio by weight of the C2H4O units with respect to the C?HeO
units ranges from 100:10 to 20:80. Advantageously, this ratio is approximately 42/58.
Preferably again, R1 is the methyl group.
More preferably still, the emulsion according to the invention comprises the
cc,co-oxyalkylenated silicone of following formula:
in which:
-m= 100.
- R = (CH:)?-O-(C2H4O)x-(C?H6O)v-CH;, where x ranges from 3 to 100 and y ranges from

1 to 50, the ratio by weight of the number of C2H4O to the number of C?HeO being
approximately 42;58 and the average molecular weight of R ranging from 800 to 1000.
The a,CO-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone as defined above can be used
according to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular
from 1 to 4% by weight and more particularly from 2 to 3% by weight, with respect to the
total weight of the composition.
Mention may in particular be made, among the commercial products which
may comprise all or part of the a,CO-substituted oxyalkylenated silicones which can be used
according to the invention as emulsifier, of those sold under the names of "Abil EM 97" by
Goldschmidt or also of "KF 6009", "X22-4350", "X22-4349" or "KF 6008" by Shin Etsu.
In particular, the product can be cetyl dimethicone copolyol.
Polvoxvalkvlenated silicone
According to another alternative embodiment of the invention, the dimethicone
copolyol required according to the invention can be used in combination with at least one
oxyalkylenated silicone.
The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane
which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane
comprising at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene having at
least two groups comprising ethylenic unsaturation.
Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained
by a crosslinking addition reaction (Al) of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least two
hydrogens each bonded to a silicon and (Bl) of a polyoxyalkylene having at least two
groups possessing ethylenic unsaturation, in particular in the presence (Cl) of a platinum
catalyst, such as, for example, described in Patents US 5236986 and US 5412004.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a
polyoxyalkylene (in particular a polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) possessing
dimethylvinylsiloxy ends and of a methylhydropolysiloxane possessing trimethylsiloxy
ends, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (Al) can be
alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl. butyl, octyl,
decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyh substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-

phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, such as phenyl, tolyl or
xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent
hydrocarbon groups, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto
group.
The compound (Al) can thus be chosen from methylhydropolysiloxanes
possessing trimcthylsiloxy ends, dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers
possessing trimethylsiloxy ends, cyclic dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane
copolymers, or dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane/laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers
possessing trimethylsiloxy ends.
The compound (Cl) is the catalyst of the crossslinking reaction and is in
particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid/olefm complexes, chloroplatinic
acid/alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid/diketone complexes, platinum black
and platinum-on-support.
Advantageously, the polyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from
divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes having at least two vinyl groups, which
react with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.
The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer according to the invention is
preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or one silicone oil in order to form
a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer is in the form of nonspherical
particles.
Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in Patents
US 5,236,986, US 5,412,004, US 5,837,793 and US 5,811,487, the contents of which are
incorporated by reference.
Use can be made, as polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer, of those sold
under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "KSG-31", KSG-32", "KSG-33",
"KSG-210", "KSG-310", "KSG-320", "KSG-330", "KSG-340" and "X-226146" by Shin
Etsu and "DC9010" and "DC9011" by Dow Corning.
The emulsifying silicone elastomer can also be chosen from polyglycerolated
silicone elastomers.
The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane
elastomer which can be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a
diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of

polyglycerolated compounds having groups possessing ethylenic unsaturation, in particular
in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Preferably, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers obtained by a
crosslinkiiig addition reaction (A) of a diorgar.opolysiloxane comprising at least two
hydrogens each bonded to a silicon and (B) of glycerolated compounds having at least two
groups possessing ethylenic unsaturation, in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum
catalyst.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of a
polyglycerolated compound possessing dimethylvinylsiloxy ends and of a
methylhydropolysiloxane possessing trimethylsiloxy ends, in the presence of a platinum
catalyst.
The compound (A) is the base reactant for the formation of an
organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking takes place by an addition reaction of
the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2
hydrogen atoms bonded to separate silicon atoms in each molecule.
The compound (A) can exhibit any molecular structure, in particular a linear
chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
The compound (A) can have a viscosity of 25°C ranging from 1 to
50 000 centistokes, in particular in order to be satisfacfactorily miscible with the
compound (B).
The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) can be
alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl,
decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-
phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, such as phenyl, tolyl or
xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent
hydrocarbon groups, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto
group. Preferably, the said organic group is chosen from the methyl, phenyl and lauryl
groups.
The compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydropolysiloxanes
possessing trimethylsiloxy ends, dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers
possessing trimethylsiloxy ends. cyclic dimcthylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane

copolymers, or dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane/laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers
possessing trimethylsiloxy ends.
The compound (B) can be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the
following foniiula (B1):
CmH2m., -O-[Gly]n-CniH2m_, (B1)
in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200,
preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50, preferably ranging from
2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10 and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5 and in
particular equal to 3; Gly denotes:
-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O- or -CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O-
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylene groups per molecule of the
compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule
of the compound (A) is at least 4.
It is advantageous for the compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the
molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the
compound (A) to the total amount of all the groups possessing ethylenic unsaturation in the
compound (B) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
The compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction and is in
particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid/olefln complexes, chloroplatinic acid/
alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid/diketone complexes, platinum black and
platinum-on-support.
The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better
still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as platinum metal proper, per 1000 parts by weight of
the total amount of the compounds (A) and (B).
The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally
mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or one silicone oil in order to form a gel. In
these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of nonspherical particles.
Such elastomers are described in particular in Patent Application
WO 2004/024798.
Use may be made, as polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, of those sold under
the names "KSG-710", "KSG-810", "KSG-820", "KSG-830" and "KSG-840" by Shin Etsu.

According to one aspect of the invention, these silicone elastomers can be
present in the composition according to the invention in a total content at least greater than
3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging
from 3 to 15% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 3.5% by weight, in particular
ranging from 3.5 to 10%> by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 4% by
weight, in particular ranging from 4 to 7% by weight.
Lower C? to Cs monoalcohol
The lower monoalcohols more particularly suitable for the invention comprise
from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and especially from 2 to 4
carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol.
Ethanol and isopropanol and preferably ethanol are also very particularly
suitable for the invention.
As specified above, this alcohol is present in a proportion of at least 5%> by
weight, in particular of at least 7% by weight, especially in a proportion of at least 10% by
weight and more particularly in a proportion of at least 15% by weight of the composition.
For reasons of comfort, it will be favourable to have less than 40% by weight
and in particular less than 30% by weight of monoalcohol in the compositions according to
the invention.
Thus, the monoalcohol can represent at least 15% by weight, and even 20% by
weight and up to 40% by weight of the aqueous phase.
Aqueous phase
As specified above, the aqueous phase forms at least 40% by weight, in
particular at least 45% by weight, indeed even more than 50% by weight and especially
more than 60% by weight of the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
In addition to the lower monoalcohol(s) defined above, this aqueous phase can
comprise other alcohol(s), in particular polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene
oxide units; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol,
sorbitol, glycols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or
diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol or mono-, di- or
triethylene glycol (C]-C.4)alkyl ether, and their mixtures.
The aqueous phase comprises water. The water can be a floral water, such as
cornflower water, and/or a mineral water, such as water from Vittel, water from Lucas or
water from La Roche-Posay, and/or a thermal water.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of water in
the aqueous phase is higher than the total amount of alcools/polyols in said aqueous phase.
In particular, the amount of polyols in the composition may represent from 0 to
25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 8% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase can additionally comprise stabilising agents, for example
sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulphate.
The aqueous phase can also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible
compound compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming
polymers, thickeners, surfactants and their mixtures.
Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the emulsion according to the
invention in a content ranging from 45% to 70%, preferably ranging from 50% to 60% by
weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.
Fatty phase
The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil (or nonaqueos medium)
capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient
temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is
liquid at ambient temperature and which has in particular a nonzero vapour pressure at
ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular which has a vapour pressure
ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10"? to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to
13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to
10 mmHg).
In addition, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at
atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150°C to 260°C and preferably ranging from 170°C to
250°C.
Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises from 15% to 40% by weight,
preferably ranging from 20% to 35% by weight and preferentially ranging from 17% to
26% by weight of volatile oil(s), with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil essentially formed,
and even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen
atoms which does not comprise a silicon or fluorine atom; it can comprise ester, ether,
ariiiiie arid amide groups.
The term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one
silicon atom and in particular comprising Si-0 groups.
The term "fluorinated oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one
fluorine atom.
The volatile hydrocarbon oil which can be used in the invention can be chosen
from hydrocarbon oils having a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C. preferably-
ranging from 40°C to 55°C, and preferably ranging from 40°C to 50°C.
Mention may be made, as volatile hydrocarbon oil, of volatile hydrocarbon oils
having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, in particular branched Cs-Ci6
alkanes, such as Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane,
isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl commercial
names, branched Cg-Cif, esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures.
Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having
from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, in particular from isododecane, isodecane or
isohexadecane, and is in particular isododecane.
The volatile hydrocarbon oil can be present in a content ranging from 6% to
25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably ranging from
10% to 20% by weight and preferentially ranging from 10% to 15% by weight. In
particular, the composition comprises at least 10% by weight, with respect to the total
weight of the emulsion, of volatile hydrocarbon oil.
The volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention can be chosen from
silicon oils having a flash point ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably having a flash
point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 95°C, and preferentially ranging from
65°C to 95°C.
Mention may be made, as volatile silicone oil. of linear or cyclic silicone oils
having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy
groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as examples
of volatile silicone oil, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxanc, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl-
trisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane,
dodecamethylpentasiloxane and theit" mixtures.
Mention may be made, as volatile fluorinated oil, of nonafluoroethoxybutane,
nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane,
dodecafluoropentane and their mixtures.
The volatile oil chosen from volatile silicone oils, volatile fluorinated oils and
their mixtures can be present in a content ranging from 20% to 32% by weight, with
respect to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably ranging from 20% to 30% by weight
and preferentially ranging from 22% to 26% by weight, with respect to the total weight of
the composition.
The fatty phase of the emulsion according to the invention can additionally
comprise at least one non-volatile oil.
This oil or one of its mixtures can be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to
12% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably ranging
from 1% to 5% by weight.
The emulsion advantageously comprises from 15% to 40% by weight, with
respect to the total weight of the emulsion, of oils and preferably from 20% to 35% by
weight.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may
comprise a weight ratio of aqueous phase/oil phase ranging from 1 to 5.
Preferably, a composition may comprise a weight ratio of aqueous phase/oil
phase ranging from 1.5 to 4.
More preferably, a composition may comprise a weight ratio of aqueous
phase/oil phase ranging from 1.8 to 3.
The non-volatile oil can be chosen from carbon-comprising, hydrocarbon-
comprising and/or silicone oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, and their
mixtures, insofar as they are compatible with the use envisaged.
Mention may be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid paraffin
or liquid petrolatum, isoeicosane, mink, turtle or soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet
almond, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, sesame, corn, arara, rapeseed, sunflower,
cottonseed, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid.

oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid: fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl
palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-
ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldexyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl
myristate or lactate, di(2-ethylhexy!) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycery! triisostearate
or diglyceryl triisostearate; higher fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic
acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid: or higher fatty
alcohols, such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenyl alcohol,
isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol.
Mention may be made, as non-volatile silicone oil, of polydimethylsiloxanes
(PDMSs), which are optionally phenylated, such as phenyl trimethicones, or optionally
substituted by aliphatic and/or aromatic groups or by functional groups, such as hydroxyl,
thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or
polyoxyalkylenes, and their mixtures.
The fatty phase can also comprise at least one wax, at least one gum and/or at
least one pasty fatty substance of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin, indeed
even silicone origin, and their mixtures.
Mention may be made among waxes which are solid at ambient temperature
and which are capable of being present in the composition according to the invention, of
hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japan wax, cork
fibre or sugarcane waxes, paraffin or lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax,
montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the Fischer-Tropsch
synthesis, hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and glycerides which are solid at 25°C. Use may
also be made of silicone waxes, among which may be mentioned
alkylpolymethylsiloxanes, alkoxypolymethylsiloxanes and/or polymethylsiloxane esters.
The waxes can be provided in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles such
that they can be prepared according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions
Theory and Practice", edited by L.M. Prince, Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32.
Mention may be made, as wax which is liquid at ambient temperature, of jojoba oil.
The waxes can be present in a proportion of 0.1% to 10% by weight, with
respect to the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably of 0.1 to 5% by weight.
The pasty fatty compounds can be defined using at least one of the following
physicochemical properties:

- a viscosity of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s,
measured at 40°C with a Contraves TV rotary viscometer equipped with an MS-r3 or MS-
r4 spindle at a frequency of 60 Hz,
The compositions of the invention can also comprise at least one alkyl, alkoxy
or phenyl dimethicone, such as, for example, the product sold under the name of "Abil
Wax 2440" by Goldschmidt.
The emulsion according to the invention can additionally comprise a
thickening agent for the fatty phase. The thickening agent can be chosen from:
- organomodified clays, which are clays treated with compounds chosen in
particular from quaternary amines or tertiary amines. Mention may be made, as
organomodified clays, of organomodified bentonites, such as those sold under the name
"Bentone 34" by Rheox, or organomodified hectorites, such as those sold under the name
"Bentone 27" or "Bentone 38" by Rheox.
- hydrophobic pyrogenic silica. Such silicas are sold, for example, under the
references "Aerosil R812"" by Degussa and "Cab-O-Sil TS-530*" by Cabot and under the
references "Aerosil R972"" and "Aerosil R974"" by Degussa and "Cab-O-Sil TS-610H"
and "Cab-O-Sil TS-720L"" by Cabot.
The thickening agent for the fatty phase can be present in a content ranging
from 0.1% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total emulsion, and better still from 0.4%
to 3% by weight.
The fatty phase can represent from 30% to 45% by weight, preferably from
35% to 45% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.
In a known way, all the compositions of the invention can comprise one or
more of the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or
lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents; fillers; moisturising agents; emollients;
hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles; agents for combating free radicals; sequestering
agents; antioxidants; preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-
forming agents; colouring materials; and their mixtures. The amounts of these various
adjuvants are those conventionally used in foundations.
As specified above, the compositions according to the invention can
advantageously, and contrary to all expectation, comprise more than 10% by weight, in
particular more than 15% by weight, indeed more than 20% by weight, of a pulverulent
phase. The latter is dispersed therein in a homogeneous and stabilised form. Within the
meaning of the present invention, the term "pulvemlent phase" covers all particles of
pigment and/or filler type, as defined below.
The fillers can be present in the emulsion in a content ranging from 0.1% to
10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably 0.1% to 7% by
weight. Mention may in particular be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, starch, boron
nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate,
microcrystalline cellulose, powders formed of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene,
polyesters, polyamides, such as those sold under the "Nylon" tradename, or
polytetrafluoroethylene ("Teflon"), and silicone powders.
As regards the colouring materials, they can be water-soluble colouring
materials of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, pigments and pearlescent agents.
Advantageously, the pigments can be present in a hydrophobic coated form in
the emulsion according to the invention. They can more particularly be pigments treated at
the surface with a hydrophobic agent in order to render them compatible with the fatty
phase of the emulsion, in particular in order for them to have good wettability with the oils
of the fatty phase. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the fatty phase.
The pigments intended to be coated can be inorganic or organic pigments. Use
may be made, as pigments, of metal oxides, such as iron oxides, in particular those which
are yellow, red, brown or black in colour, titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide
or chromium oxide; manganese violet, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, ferric blue, bismuth
oxychloride, mother-of-pearl, mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth
oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica with iron
oxides, titanium oxide-coated mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, or
titanium oxide-coated mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also
pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride, and their mixtures.
Use is preferably made of pigments formed of iron oxides or titanium oxide.
The hydrophobic treating agent can be chosen from silicones, such as
methicones, dimethicones or perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic acid; metal
soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate or the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow
glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes,
poly(hexafluoropropylene oxide)s, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl or
perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin,
isopropy! triisostearyl titanate, and their mixtures.
The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22
carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl,
palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminium,
magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can, for
example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
The term "alkyl" mentioned in the abovementioned compounds denotes in
particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16
carbon atoms.
Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in Application EP-A-
1 086 683.
The hydrophobic coated pigments can be present in a content ranging from
0.5% to 20 by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a
content at least equal to 5% by weight, in particular ranging from 5% to 20% by weight (in
particular ranging from 8% to 20% by weight), and preferentially ranging from 8% to 15%
by weight.
Likewise, the compositions according to the invention can comprise active
principles.
Mention may be made, as active principles which can be used in the
composition of the invention, for example, of moisturising agents, such as protein
hydrolysates, and polyols, for example glycerol, glycols, for example polyethylene glycols,
and sugar derivatives; natural extracts; antiinfiammatories; procyanidol oligomers;
vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid),
vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), the derivatives of these vitamins (in
particular esters) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine: salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-
hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, and their derivatives; retinoids, such as
carotenoid and vitamin A derivatives; sunscreen; hydrocortisone; melatonin; algal, fungal,
plant, yeast or bacterial extracts; enzymes; steroids; antibacterial active principles, such as
2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3.4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or
triclocarban) and the acids indicated above and in particular salicylic acid and its
derivatives; tightening agents; and their mixtures.
The sunscreens (or UV screening agents) can be chosen from organic screening
agents, physical screenina agents and their mixtures.
The composition of the invention can comprise, as chemical sunscreens which
can be used in the composition of the invention, any UV-A or UV-B screening agent which
can be used in the cosmetics field.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional
adjuvants added to the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous
properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or
not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.
The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.
Example 1:
A foundation in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is prepared from the
following composition:
The emulsion is prepared at ambient temperature, on the one hand by mixing
the pigments in a portion of the cyclopentasiloxane, on the other hand by mixing the other
oils with the surfactants, and then the mixture of pigments and the nylon are added to the
other mixed constituents of the fatty phase. The mixture of the constituents of the aqueous
phase is subsequently prepared and is poured into the mixture of the fatty phase, with
stirring according to known means, in order to obtain the emulsion at the end.
This foundation is stable after storing at ambient temperature (25°C) for 4
months. It is easy to apply to the skin with a good sensation of smoothness and softness,
and very good slip; it quickly dries after application of the product and the make-up
obtained is very homogeneous in colour, without leaving marks on the skin.
Two other foundation formulations were prepared on the basis of the preceding
formulation by respectively employing 15% by weight and 20% by weight of alcohol, the
amounts of water having been adjusted in consequence.
The three formulations thus obtained prove to possess the properties expected
in terms of fluidity and stability. No phenomenon of phase separation between the oily
phase and the aqueous phase is recorded.
What is more, the three formulations provide a feeling of freshness on
application.
CLAIMS
1. Fluid care and/or make-up cosmetic composition in the form of a water-
in-oil emulsion dedicated to the skin comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase and at
least one dimethicone copolyof, the aqueous phase forming from 40 to 60% by weight,
with respect to the total weight of the said composition, and comprising at least 5% by
weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2 to Cs
monoalcohol.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the monoalcohol is a C2 to Ce
monoalcohol and in particular a C2 to C| monoalcohol.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the monoalcohol is
ethanol.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at
least 7% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of C2 to Cs monoalcohol(s).
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at
least 45% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of aqueous phase.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the dimethicone copolyol is a compound of the following formula (II):
in which:
Ri, R2 and R? represent, independently of one another, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a
-(CH2)X - (OCH2CH2)v - (OCH2CH2CH2)Z - OR4 radical, at least one Rh R2 or R? radical
not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a Cj-C, alkyl radical or a C,-C4 acyl
radical;
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at
the same time;
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
7. Composition according to claim 6, in which Ri = R? = methyl radical, x is
an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
8. Composition according to claim 6 or 7, in which Rj is a hydrogen.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the
dimethicone copolyol is a compound of the following formula (III):
(CH?)?SiO - [(CH3)2Si0]A - (CH?SiO)B - Si(CH?b
(CH2b-(OCH2CH2)v-OH
(HI)
in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2
to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the
dimethicone copolyol is a compound of the following formula (IV):
HO - (CH2CH2O)v-(CH2)3 - [(CH02SiO]A- - (CE2h - (OCH2CH2)y - OH
(IV)
in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the dimethicone copolyol is present in a content ranging from 1% to 6% by weight,
with respect to its total weight, preferably ranging from 1.5% to 4% by weight and
preferentially ranging from 2% to 3% by weight.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally
comprising an a,co-substituted oxyalkylenated silicone.
13. Composition according to claim 12, in which the dimethicone copolyol is
cetyl dimethicone copolyol.
14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, in which the a,CO-substituted
oxyalkylenated silicone is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, with
respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 1% to 4% by
weight.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally
comprising at least one silicone elastomer chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone
elastomers and in particular polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at
least lO/o by weight, in particular at least 20% by weight, of a pulverulent phase.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally
comprising hydrophobic coated pigments.
18. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the said
pigments are chosen from metal oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. Prussian blue,
ferric blue, bismuth oxychloride, mother-of-pearl, mica covered with titanium oxide or
with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments and their mixtures.
19. Composition according to claim 18 or 19, in which the hydrophobic
coated pigments are present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, with respect
to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content at least equal to 5% by
weight and preferentially ranging from 5% to 20% by weight.
20 Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the
fatty phase comprises from 15% to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 35%
by weight and preferentially ranging from 17% to 26% by weight of volatile oil(s), with
respect to the total weight of the composition.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a
viscosity, measured at 25°C at a shear rate of 200 min"^, ranging from 0.2 to 2 Pa.s, in
particular varying from 0.3 to 1 Pa.s and preferably ranging from 0.4 to 0.8 Pa.s.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized
in that it is a foundation.
23. Cosmetic method for non-therapeutically making up the skin, comprising
the application, to the skin, of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims.

The present invention relates to the field of making up and/or caring for the skin and is targeted in particular at providing a fluid care and/or make-up cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion dedicated to the skin comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase and at least one dimethicone copolyol, the aqueous phase forming 40 to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the said composition, and comprising at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C 2 to C8 monoalcohol.