HAIR CARE COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYL -MODIFIED SILOXANE
The present invention relates to a composition comprising alkyl modified silicones.
Compositions comprising alkyl modified silicones are disclosed in EP 2 160 18 1.
There however remains a need to improve the viscosity performance of shampoos
containing alkyl modified silicones.

Accordingly, the present invention provides a hair care composition comprising:
i) a cleaning phase comprising a cleansing anionic surfactant which is a salt
and comprises an alkyl group with from 8 to 14 carbons;
ii) an aqueous conditioning gel network having no overall charge or is anionic,
the gel network comprising:
(a) fatty material;
(b) a gel network anionic surfactant comprising an alkyl group with from
16 to 30 carbons;
(c) cationic surfactant; and
iii) a silicone system comprising emulsified particles of an alkyl modified
silicone wherein the alkyl-modified silicone is characterised by the general
formula (I):
(CH3)3Si-O-[Si(CH3)(R)O] m-[Si(CH3)2O]n-Si(CH3)3 (I)
in which m has a value of 1 to 450, n has a value of 1 to 3000 and R is a
monovalent alkyl radical of from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and is fluid under
ambient conditions.
The invention further relates to a method of manufacturing a hair care composition
comprising the steps of
i) fornning a an aqueous conditioning gel network having no overall charge or
is anionic, the gel network comprising:
(a) fatty material;
(b) a gel network anionic surfactant comprising an alkyl group with from
16 to 30 carbons;
(c) cationic surfactant;
ii) adding the resulting gel network to diluted primary surfactant solution; and
iii) adding a silicone system comprising emulsified particles of an alkyl
modified silicone wherein the alkyl-modified silicone is characterised by the
general formula (I):
(CH3)3Si-O-[Si(CH3)(R)O] m-[Si(CH3)2O]n-Si(CH3)3 (I)
in which m has a value of 1 to 450, n has a value of 1 to 3000 and R is a
monovalent alkyl radical of from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and is fluid under
ambient conditions.
Further disclosed is a method of manufacturing a hair care composition
comprising the steps of
i) forming an aqueous conditioning gel network having no overall
charge or is anionic, the gel network comprising:
(a) fatty material;
(b) a gel network anionic surfactant comprising an alkyl group with from
16 to 30 carbons;
(c) cationic surfactant;
(d) a silicone system comprising emulsified particles of an alkyl modified
silicone wherein the alkyl-modified silicone is characterised by the
general formula (I):
(CH3)3Si-O-[Si(CH3)(R)O] m-[Si(CH3)2O]n-Si(CH3)3 (I)
in which m has a value of 1 to 450, n has a value of 1 to 3000 and R
is a monovalent alkyl radical of from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and is
fluid under ambient conditions and
ii) adding the resulting gel network to diluted primary surfactant solution.
The Gel Network
Preferably, the number of carbons of the anionic and cationic surfactants in the
gel network are within 4, preferably 2 carbons of each other and most preferably
have the same number of carbons. More preferably, the surfactants comprise a
single alkyl group of within 4 carbons, more preferably within 2 carbons and most
preferably are the same length. This assists in maintaining stability of the gel
network.
Preferably, the carbons in the gel network cationic surfactant are present in a
single alkyl group. More preferably the gel network cationic surfactant has from
16-30 carbons.
Preferably, the cationic surfactants have the formula N+(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4) , wherein
R1, R2, R3 and R4 are independently (Ci 6 to C30) alkyl or benzyl.
Preferably, one, two or three of R1, R2, R3 and R4 are independently (Ci6 to C30)
alkyl and the other R1, R2, R3 and R4 group or groups are (C1-C6) alkyl or benzyl.
Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-)
and/or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be
substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain
or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The
alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double
bonds (e.g., oleyl). AlkyI groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with
one or more ethyleneoxy groups.
Suitable cationic surfactants for use in conditioner compositions according to the
invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium
chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride,
tetraethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride,
cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the
corresponding hydroxides thereof. Further suitable cationic surfactants include those
materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and
Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. A
particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in conditioners according to the
invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example
as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese. Another particularly useful cationic
surfactant for use in conditioners according to the invention is
behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as
GENAMIN KDMP, ex Clariant.
Another example of a class of suitable cationic surfactants for use in the invention,
either alone or in admixture with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants,
is a combination of (i) and (ii) below:
(i) an amidoamine corresponding to the general formula (I):
in which R1 is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms,
R2 and R3 are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of from 1 to
10 carbon atoms, and
m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and
(ii) an acid.
As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain.
Preferred amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) in which
R1 is a hydrocarbyl residue having from about 11 to about 24 carbon atoms, R2
and R3 are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkyl groups,
having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 4 .
Preferably, R2 and R3 are methyl or ethyl groups.
Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e. an ethylene or propylene group.
Preferred amidoamines useful herein include stearamido-propyldimethylamine,
stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine,
stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine,
palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine,
palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine,
behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine,
behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine,
arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid-amidoethyldiethylamine,
arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferred amidoamines useful herein are
stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures
thereof.
Commercially available amidoamines useful herein include:
stearamidopropyldimethylamine with tradenames LEXAMINE S-1 3 available from
Inolex (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE MSP available from
Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with a tradename
AMIDOAMINE S available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with a
tradename INCROMINE BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England),
and various amidoamines with tradenames SCHERCODINE series available from
Scher (Clifton New Jersey, USA).
Acid (ii) may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable of protonating the
amidoamine in the hair treatment composition. Suitable acids useful herein
include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic
acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the
group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and
mixtures thereof.
The primary role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment
composition thus forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment
composition. The TAS in effect is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or
pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.
Suitably, the acid is included in a sufficient amount to protonate all the
amidoamine present, i.e. at a level which is at least equimolar to the amount of
amidoamine present in the composition.
The level of cationic surfactant will generally range from 0.01 to 10%, more
preferably 0.02 to 7.5%, most preferably 0.05 to 5% by total weight of cationic
surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.
The anionic surfactant comprises an alkyl chain with from 16-30 carbons, preferably
from 16-22 carbons.
Preferably, the carbons in the gel network anionic surfactant are present in a
single alkyl group.
The gel network comprises an anionic surfactant for achieving an overall anionic
charge to the gel network or no overall charge to the gel network.
The gel network anionic surfactant is present at from 0.1 to 5 % by weight of the
composition and more preferably from 0.5 to 2.0% wt.
The gel network comprises a fatty material.
Preferably, the fatty material is selected from fatty amides, fatty alcohols, fatty esters
and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty material is a fatty alcohol.
Preferably, the fatty material comprises a fatty group having from 14 to 30 carbon
atoms, more preferably 16 to 22. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. An example of a suitable fatty ester is
glyceryl monostearate.
The level of fatty material in compositions of the invention is conveniently from 0.01
to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
Preferably the ratio between (a) and (b) is from 0.1 :1 to 100:1 , preferably from
1.2:1 to 50:1 , more preferably from 1.5:1 to 10:1 and most preferably around 2:1 .
Preferably, the anionic and fatty materials of the gel network contain alkyl groups
within 4, preferably 2 carbons and most preferably the same number of carbons.
More preferably, they comprise a single alkyl group of within 4, more preferably
within 2 and most preferably are the same length. This assists in maintaining
stability of the gel network.
Cleansing Phase
The cleaning phase comprises a cleansing surfactant. The cleansing phase
anionic surfactant is a salt and has from 8 to 14 carbons, more preferably from 10
to 12 and most preferably 12 carbons. More preferably, these carbons are present
in a single alkyl group.
Preferably, the salt is a sulphate, sulphonate, sarcosinate or isethionate.
Preferably, the cleansing anionic surfactant is selected from ammonium lauryl
sulphate, ammonium laureth sulphate, trimethylamine lauryl sulphate,
trimethylamine laureth sulphate, triethanolamine lauryl sulphate,
trimethylethanolamine laureth sulphate, monoethanolamine lauryl sulphate,
monoethanolamine laureth sulphate, diethanolamine lauryl sulphate,
diethanolamine laureth sulphate, lauric monoglyceride sodium sulphate, sodium
lauryl sulphate, sodium laureth sulphate, potassium lauryl sulphate, potassium
laureth sulphate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, lauryl
sarcosine, ammonium cocoyl sulphate, ammonium lauroyl sulphate, sodium
cocoyl sulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate, potassium cocoyl sulphate, potassium
lauryl sulphate, monoethanolamine cocoyl sulphate, monoethanolamine lauryl
sulphate, sodium tridecyl benzene sulphonate, sodium dodecyl benzene
sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate and mixtures thereof.
Preferred anionic cleansing surfactants include alkali metal alkyl sulphates, more
preferably the alkyl ether sulphates. Particularly preferred anionic cleansing
surfactants include sodium lauryl ether sulphate.
The cleansing phase comprises from 0.5 to 70% by weight cleansing surfactant,
preferably from 5 to 60% and more preferably from 7 to 56% by weight of the
composition.
The preferred cleansing anionic surfactants provide a surfactant benefit no matter
the pH of the composition since they are pH insensitive.
The invention encompasses both regular shampoo compositions comprising
typical levels of cleansing surfactant as well as concentrated shampoos. In a
regular shampoo the level of cleansing surfactant is from 5 to 26% by weight of
the composition while for concentrated shampoos the level of cleansing surfactant
is from 27 to 70% by weight.
Preferably, the composition comprises no fatty acid. Preferably the composition
comprises no fatty acid having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms in an alkyl chain. Fatty
acids are not desirable since they provide a poor quality conditioning benefit to the
hair.
Silicone
AlkyI modified silicone
The hair care composition of the invention comprises emulsified particles of an
alkyl modified silicone.
By "alkyl modified silicone" is generally meant an organosiloxane polymer in which
at least one pendant alkyl group having a hydrocarbyl chain length of or
greater extends from at least one of the silicon atoms forming the polymer
backbone.
The physical form of alkyl modified silicones under ambient conditions generally
varies from wax to fluid depending on molecular parameters such as the chain
length of the alkyl group, number of alkyl groups (other than methyl) in the
molecule and silicone backbone molecular weight.
The term "ambient conditions" as used herein refers to surrounding conditions at
one atmosphere of pressure, 50% relative humidity, and 25°C.
Preferred alkyl modified silicones for use in the invention are fluids under ambient
conditions.
Preferred alkyl modified silicones for use in the invention have a number average
molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 10,000 to 450,000, more preferably from
60,000 to 10,000 dalton.
Alkyl modified silicones for use in the hair care compositions of the invention are
chemically characterised by the general formula (I):
(CH3)3Si-O-[Si(CH3)(R)O] m-[Si(CH3)2O]n-Si(CH3)3 (I)
in which m has a value of 1 to 450, n has a value of 1 to 3000 and R is a
monovalent alkyl radical of from 8 to 60 carbon atoms.
In general formula (I), the -[Si(CH 3)2O]- units are typically randomly interspersed
with the -[Si(CH 3)(R)O]- units m and n are typically average values due to the
nature of the polymerisation process.
Preferred materials of general formula (I) for use in the invention have an m value
ranging from 40 to 100, more preferably from 50 to 80.
Preferred materials of general formula (I) for use in the invention have an n value
ranging from 500 to 1400, more preferably from 700 to 1200.
Preferred materials of general formula (I) for use in the invention have a ratio of
m:n ranging from 15:85 to 1:99, more preferably from 10:90 to 5:95.
In preferred materials of general formula (I) for use in the invention, R is a linear
alkyl radical having from 8 to 22, more preferably from 8 to 14, most preferably
from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.
Methods for the preparation of alkyl modified silicones suitable for use in the
invention are known in the art and described for example in EP 495 596 and
WO91/09586.
Alkyl modified silicones suitable for use in the invention are also commercially
available from suppliers of silicones such as Momentive Performance Materials,
Inc. (of Wilton, Connecticut, USA) and Dow Corning Corporation (of Midland,
Michigan, USA).
The alkyl modified silicone is present as emulsified particles in the hair care
composition of the invention.
The emulsified particles of alkyl modified silicone may typically have a Sauter
mean particle diameter (D3 2) in the composition of the invention ranging from 0.1
to 10, preferably from 1 to 4 micrometers.
A suitable method for measuring the Sauter mean droplet diameter (D3 2) is by
laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer.
Mixtures of any of the above described alkyl modified silicones may also be used.
Alkyl modified silicones for use in compositions of the invention are available as
pre-formed silicone emulsions from suppliers of silicones such as those
mentioned above. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for
ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone
emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier, such as an
anionic or non-ionic surfactant, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification
process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical emulsification using a
high shear mixer.
The total amount of alkyl modified silicone in hair care compositions of the
invention generally ranges from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 2%, more
preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by total weight alkyl modified silicone based on the
total weight of the composition.
Non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicone
The hair care composition of the invention may further comprises emulsified
particles of a non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicone.
The term "non-volatile" as used herein means that the material in question has a
vapour pressure under ambient conditions of 0.2mm Hg or less, preferably about
0.1 mm Hg or less.
By "non-alkyl modified silicone" is generally meant an organosiloxane polymer
which does not contain any pendant alkyl group having a hydrocarbyl chain length
of C 6 or greater extending from at least one of the silicon atoms forming the
polymer backbone.
Suitable non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicones for use in the invention have a
viscosity ranging from 350 to 200,000,000 mm2sec 1 at 25°C. Preferably the
viscosity is at least 5,000, more preferably at least 10,000 mm2sec 1 at 25°C.
Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 20,000,000, more preferably 10,000,000,
most preferably 5,000,000 mm2sec 1 at 25°C.
All silicone viscosities mentioned herein are kinematic viscosities unless otherwise
specified, and are generally provided by suppliers of silicones, either as measured
at 25°C using calibrated capillary glass viscometers under gravity flow conditions,
or as deduced from the molecular weight of the material in question.
Preferred non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicones for use in the invention have a
number average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 10,000 to 1,000,000, more
preferably from 100,000 to 500,000 dalton.
Suitable non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicones for use in the hair care
compositions of the invention may be chemically characterised by the general
formula (II):
A(R)2Si-O-[Si(R)2-O]x-Si(R)2A (II)
in which each R is independently selected from Ci-4 alkyl or aryl, x is an integer
from 200 to 8,000 and each A is independently selected from Ci-4 alkyl, Ci-4
alkoxy, aryl, aryloxy or hydroxyl.
In preferred materials of general formula (II) for use in the invention, all R groups
are methyl and both A groups are either methyl or hydroxyl. Such materials have
the CTFA designation "dimethicone" and "dimethiconol" respectively. Most
preferably, all R groups are methyl and both A groups are hydroxyl.
Also suitable as non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicones for use in the hair care
compositions of the invention are aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxanes having
the CTFA designation "amodimethicone", and the general formula (III):
HO-[Si(CH3)2-O-]x-[Si(R)(R 1-NH-R2NH2)-O-]y-H (III)
in which R is CH3 or OH, x and y are independent integers of 1 or more and R1
and R2 are each independently an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon
atoms.
Also suitable as non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicones for use in the hair care
compositions of the invention are aminofunctional polydimethylsiloxanes having
the CTFA designation "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", and the general formula
(IV):
(CH3)3Si-O-[Si(CH3)2-O-] x-[Si(CH3)(R1-NH-R2NH2)-O-] y-Si(CH3 )3
(IV)
in which x and y are independent integers of 1 or more and R1and R2 are each
independently an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
Mixtures of any of the above described non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicones
may also be used.
The non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicone is present as emulsified particles in
the hair care composition of the invention.
The emulsified particles of non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicone may typically
have a Sauter mean particle diameter (D3 2) in the composition of the invention
ranging from 0.01 to 10, preferably from 0.1 to 5, more preferably from 0.5 to 2.5
micrometres.
Non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicones for use in compositions of the invention
are available as pre-formed silicone emulsions from suppliers of silicones such as
those mentioned above. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is
preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre
formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier,
such as an anionic or non-ionic surfactant, and may be prepared by a chemical
emulsification process such as emulsion polymerisation, or by mechanical
emulsification using a high shear mixer.
Examples of suitable commercially available pre-formed emulsions are Dow
Corning® 1784 Emulsion and Dow Corning® 1785 Emulsion. These are both
anionic emulsions of dimethiconol.
The total amount of non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicone in hair care
compositions of the invention generally ranges from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from
0.5 to 5%, more preferably from 1 to 3% by total weight non-volatile, non-alkyl
modified silicone based on the total weight of the composition.
In the composition of the invention, the weight ratio of alkyl modified silicone (as
defined above) to non-volatile, non-alkyl modified silicone (as defined above)
generally ranges from 10:1 to 1:1 0, preferably from 1:1 to 1:1 0, more preferably
from 1:2 to 1:8.
Deposition Polymer
In a preferred embodiment the composition according to the invention comprises a
cationic deposition polymer.
Suitable cationic deposition aid polymers may be homopolymers which are
cationically substituted or may be formed from two or more types of monomers. The
weight average (Mw) molecular weight of the polymers will generally be between
100 000 and 2 million daltons. The polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing
groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture
thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, then the conditioning effect
is poor. If too high, then there may be problems of high extensional viscosity leading
to stringiness of the composition when it is poured.
The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on
a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus when the polymer
is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units. Such
polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The
ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give polymers
having a cationic charge density in the required range, which is generally from 0.2 to
3.0 meq/gm. The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined via
the Kjeldahl method as described in the US Pharmacopoeia under chemical tests
for nitrogen determination.
Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers
having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble
spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyi and dialkyi (meth)acrylamides,
alkyi (meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyi and dialkyi
substituted monomers preferably have C 1-C7 alkyi groups, more preferably C 1-3
alkyi groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic
anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.
The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending
upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general secondary
and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.
Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerised in the amine
form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.
The cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from
amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible
spacer monomers.
Suitable cationic polymers include, for example:
- cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for
example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers
of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the
industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively;
mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers of
unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as
described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256);
cationic polyacrylamides(as described in WO95/2231 1) .
Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers,
such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar
gum derivatives.
Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention
include monomers of the formula:
A-O-[R-N +(R1)(R2)(R3)X ] ,
wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose
anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or
hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R1, R2 and R3 independently
represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each
group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms
for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2 and R3) is
preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.
Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium
salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted
epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These
materials are available from the Amerchol Corporation, for instance under the
tradename Polymer LM-200.
Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogencontaining
cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,41 8), and
copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. as described in
U.S. Patent 3,958,581 ) .
A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a
cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium
chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR trademark series).
Examples of such materials are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14, JAGUAR C15 and
JAGUAR C 17.
Mixtures of any of the above cationic polymers may be used.
Cationic polymer will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the invention
at levels of from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 2%, more preferably from 0.07
to 1.2% by total weight of cationic polymer based on the total weight of the
composition.
Solvent
Preferably, the hair care compositions of the invention are aqueous, i.e. they have
water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major
component.
Suitably, the composition will comprise from 10 to 98%, preferably from 30 to 95%
water by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
Optionally, a composition of the invention may contain further ingredients as
described below to enhance performance and/or consumer acceptability.
The composition can include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or
cleansing properties to the composition.
An example of a co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an
amount ranging from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 0.7 to 6% by weight based on the
total weight of the composition.
For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo
compositions of the invention include condensation products of aliphatic (Cs - Cis)
primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene
oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide
groups.
Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- o di-alkyl alkanolamides.
Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and coco monoisopropanolamide.
A particularly preferred nonionic surfactant is coco monoethanolamide.
Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the
invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, the APG is one which
comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of
one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:
wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or
unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.
R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C5 to about 2 .
Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about Cs to about C12.
Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G may be
selected from C5 or C 6 monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G
may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose,
mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose.
The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or
more. Preferably, the value of n lies from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the
value of n lies from about 1.3 to about 1.5.
Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and
include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren
1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.
Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions of
the invention include the C10-C18 N-alkyl (Ci-Ce) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such
as the C12-C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in
WO 92 061 54 and US 5 194 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides,
such as C10-C18 N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.
A preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant,
which can be included in an amount ranging from 0.5 to about 10%, preferably from
1 to 6% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
Examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl
betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines), alkyl
glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoacetates, alkyl amphopropionates,
alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl
glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms.
Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention
include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine,
cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocoamphoacetate.
A particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is cocamidopropyl
betaine.
Mixtures of any of the foregoing amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may also
be suitable. Preferred mixtures are those of cocamidopropyl betaine with further
amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants as described above. A preferred further
amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.
The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or any emulsifier)
in a shampoo composition of the invention is generally from 1 to 70%, preferably
from 2 to 65%, more preferably from 8 to 60% by total weight surfactant based on
the total weight of the composition.
Suspending Agent
Preferably an aqueous shampoo composition of the invention further comprises a
suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic
acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a
hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and
acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters,
heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long
chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate,
alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures
thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are
preferred long chain acyl derivatives, since these impart pearlescence to the
composition. Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420,
Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a
polyfunctional agent may also be used; they are available commercially as
Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a
suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid
esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from
Goodrich.
Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen
TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for
example that available as Kelzan mu.
Mixtures of any of the above suspending agents may be used. Preferred is a
mixture of cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid and crystalline long chain acyl
derivative.
Suspending agent will generally be present in a shampoo composition of the
invention at levels of from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 6%, more preferably
from 0.9 to 4% by total weight of suspending agent based on the total weight of the
composition.
Preferably, the composition has a viscosity of 2000 to 7000 cPs measures at
30°C, measured on a Brookfield Viscometer using spindle RV5 at 20 rpm.
Oil
The composition preferably may comprises an oil. The oil may be any oil
commonly used in personal care products for example polyolefin oils, ester oils,
triglyceride oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the oil is a light
oil. Oils, enhance the conditioning benefits found with compositions of the
invention.
Preferred oils include those selected from:
• Oils having viscosities from 0.1 to 500 centipoises measures at 30°C.
• Oils with viscosity above 500 centipoises (500-500000 cps) which contains up
to 20% of a lower viscosity fraction (less than 500cps).
One type of preferred oil is a polyalphaolefin oil.
Suitable polyalphaolefin oils include those derived from 1-alkalene monomers
having from 6 to 16 carbons, preferably from 6 to 12 carbons. Non limiting examples
of materials include 1-hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, 1-
hexadecene, branched isomers such as 4-methyl-1-pentene and mixtures thereof.
Preferred polyalphaloefins include polydecenes with tradename Puresyn 6 having a
number average molecular weight of about 500, Puresyn 100 having a molecular
weight of about 3000 and Puresyn 300 having a molecular weight of about 6000
commercially available from Mobil .
Preferably, the polyalphaolefin oil is present at from 0.05 to 10%, particularly from
0.2 to 5%, and especially from 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.
Also suitable are triglyceride oils include fats and oils including natural fats and
oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower seed oil, rice bran, avocado, almond,
olive, sesame, castor, coconut, coconut palm oil, sunflower oil, mink oils; cacao
fat; beef tallow, lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned
oils; and synthetic mono, di- and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and
2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride.
Preferably, the triglyceride oil if present is at levels from 0.05 to 10%, particularly
from 0.2 to 5%, and especially from 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.
Highly suitable oils for use with the present invention are hydrocarbon oils.
Hydrocarbon oils have at least 12 carbon atoms, and include paraffin oil, polyolefin
oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated
tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated
pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length
hydrocarbons, can also be used. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of C2-6
alkenyl monomers, such as polyisobutylene.
Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is present at from 0.05 to 10%, particularly from
0.2 to 5%, and especially from 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.
Also suitable are ester oils which have at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters
with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols. Typical ester oils are
formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals
and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Diand
trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.
Preferably, the ester oil is present at from 0.05 to 10%, particularly from 0.2 to 5%,
and especially from 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition comprises a cleansing anionic surfactant which
comprises an alkyl group with from 10 to 14 carbons.
A further component that may be used in compositions of the invention is a
hydrocarbon oil or ester oil. Like silicone oils, these materials may enhance the
conditioning benefits found with compositions of the invention.
Suitable hydrocarbon oils have at least 12 carbon atoms, and include paraffin oil,
polyolefin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and
unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and
unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, and mixtures
thereof. Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain
length hydrocarbons, can also be used. Also suitable are polymeric hydrocarbons of
C2-6 alkenyl monomers, such as polyisobutylene.
Suitable ester oils have at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters with
hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols. Typical ester oils are
formula R'COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals
and the sum of carbon atoms in R' and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20. Diand
trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used.
Mixtures of any of the above described hydrocarbon/ester oils also be used.
The total combined amount of hydrocarbon oil and ester oil in compositions of the
invention may suitably range from 0.05 to 10%, particularly from 0.2 to 5%, and
especially from 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.
Other Ingredients
A composition of the invention may contain other ingredients for enhancing
performance and/or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrance,
dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity
modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobials. Each of these ingredients will be
present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally these
optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 5% by weight of
the total composition.
Mode of Use
The compositions of the invention are primarily intended for topical application to
the hair and/or scalp of a human subject in rinse-off compositions.
The compositions provided by the invention are preferably shampoo compositions
for the treatment of hair (typically after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing.
Alternatively the compositions provided by the invention may be aqueous
conditioner compositions, used by massaging them into the hair followed by
rinsing with clean water prior to drying the hair.
The invention will be further illustrated by the following, non-limiting Example, in
which all percentages quoted are by weight based on total weight unless
otherwise stated.
Examples
Component %ad A B C 1 2 3
Sodium Laureth Sulphate 70 17 .14 17 .14 17 .14 17 .14 17 .14 17 .14
Cocoamidopropyl Betaine 30 5.33 5.33 5.33 5.33 5.33 5.33
Carbomer 100 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4
Glycol Distearate 35 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
Dimethiconol 50 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0
Sodium Cetylstearyl sulphate 100 - - 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6
Cetostearyl Alcohol 100 - - 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
Cetyl trimethylammonium 29 0 .17
chloride
Behenyl Trimethyl 77.5 0.06 0.06 0.06
Ammonium Chloride
Alkyl Methicone *(HUJ741 8) 100 0 0.5 0 0.5 0.5 1.0
Guar Hydroxypropyl 100 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Trimonium Chloride
Parfume 100% 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8
DMDM Hydantoin and 3-iodo- 50% 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
2propylnylbutyl carbamate
Sodium chloride 100% Vise. Vise. Vise. Vise. Vise. Vise.
Aqua q.s.to q.s.to q.s.to q.s.to q.s.to q.s.to
100 100 100 100 100 100
* ' Emulsion (60wt% ) of an alkyl modified silicone of formula (I) above in
which R is a C12 linear alkyl radical (from Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.).
Examples A and B are conventional shampoo formulations without the required
conditioning gel network phase.
Process 1
At least 7% of water was heated to about 80°C in a side pot. To this, was added
cationic surfactant (Behenyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride), fatty alcohol,
modified silicone, and secondary anionic surfactant (Sodium Cetylstearyl
sulphate) using high speed stirring. When uniform dispersion obtained, this
mixture was cooled down to about 45°C with the same speed stirring. This mixture
was then added in the diluted primary surfactant solution (Sodium Laureth
Sulphate) following by remaining components with moderate speed stirring.
Process 2
At least 7% of water was heated to about 80°C in a side pot. To this, was added
cationic surfactant (Behenyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride), fatty alcohol, and
secondary anionic surfactant (Sodium Cetylstearyl sulphate) using high speed
stirring. When uniform dispersion obtained, this mixture was cooled down to about
45°C with the same speed stirring. This mixture was then added in the diluted
primary surfactant solution (Sodium Laureth Sulphate) following by remaining
components with moderate speed stirring. Modified silicone was added after
adding salt.
Results
Compositions made via process 2 and the viscosity measured. The results are
shown in table 2 .
Table 2
The Examples show that a conventional formulation Example A has the required
viscosity, but addition of alkyl methicone (HUJ741 8) (formulation B) decreased the
viscosity. The Example of the invention (formulation 1) does not have a marked
decrease in viscosity, over a base formulation omitting alkyl methicone
(formulation C). The Example of the invention remains stable on storage.
CLAIMS
1. A hair care composition comprising:
i) a cleaning phase comprising a cleansing anionic surfactant which is
a salt and comprises an alkyl group with from 8 to 14 carbons;
ii) an aqueous conditioning gel network having no overall charge or is
anionic, the gel network comprising:
(a) fatty material;
(b) a gel network anionic surfactant comprising an alkyl group
with from 16 to 30 carbons;
(c) cationic surfactant; and
iii) a silicone system comprising emulsified particles of an alkyl
modified silicone, wherein the alkyl-modified silicone is characterised
by the general formula (I):
(CH3)3Si-O-[Si(CH3)(R)O] m-[Si(CH3)2O]n-Si(CH3)3 (I)
in which m has a value of 1 to 450, n has a value of 1 to 3000 and R is a
monovalent alkyl radical of from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and is fluid under
ambient conditions.
2 . A composition according to claim 1, in which R is a linear alkyl radical
having from 10 to 12 carbon atoms.
3 . A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the fatty material
is selected from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids and fatty amides.
4 . A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the fatty material
of the gel network is straight chain or branched and has from 14 to 30
carbons.
5 . A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the gel network
anionic surfactant has from 16 to 22 carbons.
6 . A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the gel network
cationic surfactant has from 16 to 30 carbons.
7 . A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the ratio between
(a) and (b) within the conditioning gel network is from 0.1 :1 to 100:1 ,
preferably from 1.2:1 to 50:1 , more preferably from 1.5:1 to 10:1 and most
preferably around 2:1 .
8 . A composition according to any preceding claim comprising a cationic
deposition polymer.
9 . A composition according to any preceding claim in which the composition
further comprises a suspending agent.
10 . A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the cleansing
anionic surfactant is a sulphate, sulphonate, sarcosinate or isethionate.
11. A method of manufacturing a hair care composition comprising the steps of
i) forming a an aqueous conditioning gel network having no overall
charge or is anionic, the gel network comprising:
(a) fatty material;
(b) a gel network anionic surfactant comprising an alkyl group
with from 16 to 30 carbons;
(c) cationic surfactant;
ii) adding the resulting gel network to diluted primary surfactant
solution; and
iii) adding a silicone system comprising emulsified particles of an alkyl
modified silicone, wherein the alkyl-modified silicone is characterised
by the general formula (I):
(CH3)3Si-O-[Si(CH3)(R)O] m-[Si(CH3)2O]n-Si(CH3)3 (I)
in which m has a value of 1 to 450, n has a value of 1 to 3000 and R
is a monovalent alkyl radical of from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and is
fluid under ambient conditions.
12.method of manufacturing a hair care composition comprising the steps of
forming a an aqueous conditioning gel network having no overall
charge or is anionic, the gel network comprising:
(a) fatty material;
(b) a gel network anionic surfactant comprising an alkyl group
with from 16 to 30 carbons;
(c) cationic surfactant;
(d) a silicone system comprising a silicone system comprising
emulsified particles of an alkyl modified silicone, wherein the alkylmodified
silicone is characterised by the general formula (I):
(CH3)3Si-O-[Si(CH3)(R)O] m-[Si(CH3)2O]n-Si(CH3)3 (I)
in which m has a value of 1 to 450, n has a value of 1 to 3000 and R is a
monovalent alkyl radical of from 8 to 60 carbon atoms and is fluid under
ambient conditions; and
ii) adding the resulting gel network to diluted primary surfactant
solution.