Field of the invention
The present invention relates to hair dye formulations. More specifically the present
invention relates to an herbal hair dye comprising a natural dye and a natural mordant.
Background and the prior art
Hair colouring is the practice of changing the colour of hair. The main reasons for this
practice are cosmetic (e.g., to cover gray hair, to change to a colour regarded as more
fashionable or desirable, or to restore the original hair colour after it has been
discoloured by hairdressing processes or sun bleaching). Various hair colouring agents
are known in the art which can be both of chemical as well as of synthetic origin. While
most commonly used hair dyes are chemical in nature; these dyes are known to cause
allergies and harmful effects in humans and also produce toxic wastes. Colouring agents
which are from natural sources are often known to be less allergic to skin and
accordingly researchers are constantly in search of new hair dyes which are of natural
origin.
Dyeing compositions generally requires use of Mordant which helps in fixing of
colours. Like colouring agent in a dye composition, Mordants can also be of chemical
and natural origin. Mordants which are of natural original are more preferred and thus
dyeing compositions where both dyes and Mordants are of natural origin are usually
preferred.
US7186279 discloses herbal hair dye composition comprising plant extracts, and hair
coloring mordant based on natural tannins. US'279 discloses use of mordant from
natural sources such as those derived from Juglans regia, Terminalia chebula, Emblica
officinalis, Acacia 2ndican, Sapindus mukorossi. It is a multicomponent formulated dye
from Indigofera tinctoria. US7186279 describes a dye which is prepared by heating the
components at 85-90 degree. It talks about a black dye.

US 20060143838 discloses herbal black dye from natural materials comprising of
Juglans regia, Indigofera tinctoria, Terminalia chebula, Acacia accocina, Lawsonia
inermis, Trigonella foenum-graecum, Sapindus mukorossi, Eclipta alba, Embelica
officinalis, Acacia catechu and Piper betle, the dye derived being safe, non toxic, anti-
allergic, anti-dandruff and free from toxic symptoms like itching.
US 6849096 discloses hair dye and hair-dyeing methods using the hair dye where the
hair dye comprises, as essential ingredients, (i) a formulation primarily composed of a
dye component-including indican derived from indigo plants and (ii) a formulation
primarily composed of a P-glucosidase enzyme component. US 6849096 discloses hair
being first mordanted with a dye mordant such as aluminum, iron and the like, and then
secondly the prepared hair dye is uniformly applied to the hair either directly or as a
mixture of the dye and a proper amount of water. Upon completion of the hair-dyeing,
hair is rinsed with water and is finished by drying. US 6849096 disclose use of enzyme
and metallic mordants.
Metallic mordants used for preparing dyes meet with certain drawbacks such as
producing dyes are often highly toxic or carcinogenic, heavy metals including chrome,
copper and zinc are used as mordants already recognized as known carcinogens and
ferrous sulphate heptahydrate or epsum salt which is often used as mordants with herbal
dyes may produce inflammation the skin.
Indian J. Traditional Knowledge, Vol 7, No. 1, January 2008 and Application of natural
dyes on textiles, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol 34, December 2009,
pp 384-399, discloses various plant extracts being useful as dye as well as mordants for
imparting different shades of colour in fabrics. Indian J Traditional Knowledge, Vol 7,
No. 1, January 2008 discloses use of Strobilanthes cusia (Nees) extracts (traditionally
known as "KUM") for imparting black and indigo color to textiles. However there is no
mention of a hair dyeing composition comprising KUM extracts in the prior art.

A Study On The Effect Of Marigold Flower Dye With Natural Mordant On
Selected Fibers, Journal of Pharmacy Research, Vol.1.Issue 2. Oct- December 2008
discloses use of aloe vera as mordant with a natural marigold dye for hair dying.
Natural Product Radiance, Vol 3(2) March-April 2004, page 95-96 discloses guava leaf
ashes being used as mordants in textile dying.
There is a constant search for developing new dyeing compositions comprising different
plant extracts which work as hair colouring agents and mordants.
Object of the Invention
It is an object of the present invention to develop a hair dyeing composition comprising
plant extracts.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a hair dye composition
comprising extracts from Strobilanthus flaccidifolius which acts as hair colouring agents
and mordants selected from various plant extracts.
It is a further object of the present invention to bring out a dye with lesser number of
components comprising only of the dye component, mordant and conditioning and
sweet smelling hair conditioner components.
It is yet another object of the present invention to provide a simple method of
preparation of a herbal hair dye formulations.
It is also another object of the present invention to obtain range of colours with grey and
golden hair with different mordants.
It is also another object of the present invention to provide a herbal hair dye formulation
with no metallic mordants added to it.
Summary of the Invention
According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a herbal hair dyeing
composition comprising i) dyeing agent; ii) mordants and iii) additives; such that said
dyeing agent is present in an amount from 40 to 45 wt% of total weight composition;
said mordants are present in an amount from 40 to 45 wt% of total weight composition;

and said additives are present in an amount from 10 to 20 wt% of total weight
composition.
According to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a process for the
preparation of hair dye composition comprising steps of
i) soaking fresh leaves of Strobilanthes flaccidifolius in water under
anaerobic condition by covering with cloth;
ii) fermenting said leaves;
iii) aerating fermenting broth of step (ii) to get extract of Strobilanthes
flaccidifolius;
iv) mixing fermented said extract of Strobilanthes flaccidifolius with
mordants selected from extracts of Psidum guajava, Pasania
deealbata, Ficus glomerata, Pasania pachyphylla, Parkia
roxburghii, Osbeckia chinensis, Clerodendron adoratus, Emblica
officinale, Bixa orellana Linn, Garcinia peduculata Roxb.,
Melastoma malabathricum, Meyna laniflora Robyns, and Solanum
incidum Linn and mixtures thereof;
v) incorporating aromatic conditioner as additives to above mixture;
vi) thickening the mixture of Strobilanthes flaccidifolius, mordants
and aromatic conditioner as obtained in step v; and
vii) optionally further freeze drying or lyophilizing the mixture to
obtain said herbal hair dye composition.
Brief description of the accompanying drawings
Figure 1 illustrates fermentation extraction of indigo dyes from fresh leaves of kum in
accordance with the present invention.
Detailed description of the invention
The present invention relates to a herbal hair dye composition comprising extracts from
Strobilanthus flaccidifolius (traditionally known as kum); a mordant which is from plant

extract and other additives. The present invention provides various combinations of kum
extracts with various natural mordants which give different shades of colour.
The present inventors have found that extracts from leaves and young buds of Kum
{Strobilanthes flaccidifolius Nees.) along with different mordant of natural origin can be
efficiently formed in to a hair dyeing composition.
Accordingly the hair dyeing composition of the present invention comprises i) extract
from Strobilanthes flaccidifolius as the dyeing agents; ii) mordants selected from
extracts of Psidum guajava, Pasania deealbata, Ficus glomerata, Pasania pachyphylla,
Parkia rouburghii, Osbeckia chinensia, Clerodendron adoratus, Emblica officinale,
Bixa orellana Linn, Garcinia peduculata Roxb., Melastoma malabathricum, Meyna
laniflora Robyns, and Solanum incidum Linn and mixtures thereof and iii) other
additives
The ratio of Strobilanthes flaccidifolius and different mordants in weight/weight and
volume/volume are as follows:
The ratio of'Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract
to Guava (Psidum guajava) extract is in the range of from 1:0.1 to 1:1 preferably from
1:0.2 to 1:1 by weight;
to Heibi {Meyna laniflora Robyns) extract is in the range from 1:0.1 to 1:1 preferably
from 1:0.2 to 1:0.6 by weight;
to Y ongc\\dik{Parkia roxburghii) extract is in the range of from 1:0.05 to 1:1 preferably
from 1:0.1 to 1:0.3 by weight;
to Yachubi {Melastoma malabathricum) extract is in the of range from 1:0.05 to 1:1
preferably from 1:0.1 to 1:0.3 by weight;
to Khammu {Solanum incidum Linn) extract is in the range of from 1:0.1 to 1:2
preferably from 1:0.5 to 1:2 by weight;
to Heibung {Garcinia peduculata Roxb.) extract is in the range of from 1:0.05 to 1:1
preferably from 1:0.1 to 1:0.3 by weight;
to ureirom {Bixa orellana Linn) extract is in the range of from 10: 1 to 3:1 preferably
from 8:1 to 6:1 by weight.

to Heikru (Emblica officinialis) extract is in the range of from 1:0.1 to 1:1 by weight;
to Kuthap (Clerodendron adoratus) extract, sahi. (Pasania deealbata) extract and kuhi
(Pasania pachyphylla) extract is in the range of from 1:0.1 to 1:1 by weight.
The ratio of from Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract
to Guava (Psidum guajava) extract is in the range of from 1:0.25 to 1:2 preferably from
1:0.5 to 1:1.5 by volume;
to Heibi (Meyna laniflora Robyns) extract is in the range of from 1:0.25 to 1:2
preferably from 1:0.3 to 1:0.6 by volume;
to Yongchak(Par kia roxburghii) extract is in the range of from 1:0.25 to 1:2 preferably
from 1:0.5 to 1:1.5 by volume;
to Yachubi (Melastoma malabathricum) extract is in the range of from 1:0.1 to 1:2
preferably from 1:0.1 to 1:0.4 by volume;
to Khammu {Solanum incidum Linn ) extract is in the range of from 1:0.25 to 1:3
preferably from 1:0.5 to 1:2 by volume;
to Heibung (Garcinia peduculata Roxb.) extract is in the range of from 1:0:25 to 1:2
preferably from 1:0.5 to 1:1.5 by volume;
to ureirom (Bixa orellana Linn) extract is in the range of from 1:0.1 to 1:1 preferably
from 1:0.2 to 1:0.7 by volume;
to Heikru (Emblica officinialis) extract is in the range of from 1:0.25 to 1:2 preferably
by volume;
Kum (Strobilanthes flaccidifolius) extracts
For the purpose of obtaining Kum (Strobilanthes flaccidifolius) extracts leaves from
KUM have been collected mainly from Bishnupur district in Manipur. Kum
(Strobilanthes flaccidifolius) extracts used in the present invention can be prepared by
soaking fresh leaves under anaerobic condition by covering with cloth. The soaked
KUM leaves are kept for two days for fermentation which produces indoxyl from the
indigo precursors indicant, isatin and istan.

Comparative Study of the major components of the indigo dye obtained from
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius Nee's. and Indigofera tinctoria Linn., Int J Plant Physiol
and Biochem, 2011, 3(7), 108-116 mentions
25 g of S flaccidifolius = 6.41 mg of indigo
10 g of S flaccidifolius = 6.41/ 25 x 10 mg
=2.56 mg of indigo

Scheme 1. Indigo formation from indoxyl
From the scheme 1 equivalent of indoxyl = 1 equivalent of indigo
133 mg of indoxyl = 263 mg of indigo
2.56 mg of indoxyl = 133/263 x 2.56 mg
= 1.29 mg of indoxyl from 10 g of fresh
leaves
It has been observed that maximum of indoxyl gets converted into Indigo after
overnight stirring.
Figure 1 of the present invention illustrates the fermentation of Kum (Strobilanthes
flaccidifolius) leaves. The fermented broth is then aerated with a magnetic stirrer so that
indoxyl gets converted to the indigo dyes till it becomes thick. The extract is then mixed
with the extracts of mordants to make the dye composition which can be further
thickened by using a freeze drier lyophiliser.
Mordant
The mordants according to the present invention are chosen scientifically for their
anthraquinone and tannin content which have good mordanting effect. They exhibit
excellent results both in terms of imparting hair colour as well as fastness as elucidated
in Tables 1 and 2 below.
Mordant is selected from extracts of Psidum guajava (Guava), Pasania deealbata
(sahi), Ficus glomerata (Heibung), Pasania pachyphylla (Kuhi), Parkia rouburghii

(Yongchak), Osbeckia chinensia (Yachubi), Clerodendron adoratus (Kuthap), Emblica
officinale (Heikru), Bixa orellana Linn (ureirom), Garcinia peduculata Roxb.(
HeibungJ, Melastoma malabathricum, Meyna laniflora Robyns (Tachubil and Solanum
incidum Linn (Khammul and mixtures thereof.
According to present invention the preferred mordant is Psidum guajava (Guava)
extract. Such extracts are preferably from leaves.
Other additives
Other additives of present invention are conditioners preferably aromatic conditioners.
Aromatic conditioners used in the present invention are selected from extract of
Pogostemon purpurascens, charot Cymbopogon nardus, L.
The hair dye composition
The herbal hair dye composition of the present invention comprises Strobilanthes
flaccidifolius extracts in the range of from 40 to 45% by weight; mordants in the range
of from 40 to 45% by weight and aromatic conditioner in the range of 10-20% by
weight.
The present invention also provides a process for the preparation of the hair dye
composition comprising the steps of preparing the extract ofStrobilanthes flaccidifolius,
and mixing said extract of Strobilanthes flaccidifolius with mordants selected from
extracts of Psidum guava, Pasania deealbata, Ficus glomerata, Pasania pachyphylla,
Parkia roxburghii, Osbeckia chinensia, Clerodendron adoratus, Emblica officinale,
Bixa orellana Linn, Garcinia peduculata Roxb., Melastoma malabathricum, Meyna
laniflora Robyns, and Solanum incidum Linn and mixtures thereof; thickening the
mixture of said extract of Strobilanthes flaccidifolius with mordants and other additives
such as aromatic conditioner and optionally further freeze drying or lyophilizing to
obtain the herbal hair dye composition of the present invention. The composition of the
present invention can alternatively be prepared by mixing the dry powder extract of
KUM and the mordant.

The composition of the present invention is preferably in a dry powder form. For using
the composition of the present invention, the same is mixed with water and soaked for
one night. It is then applied on human hair.
Table 1 and 2 below shows the various effects being obtained by adding varying
amounts of the "KUM" dye and the various mordants by weight/weight and
volume/volume.

The hair strands were exposed to the dye for the purpose of experiment for 30 to 40
minutes.
The present invention is now illustrated by way of non-limiting examples.

Table 1 shows the composition of the hair dye composition of the present invention.
The composition is prepared by the following process:
i. The extract was prepared by soaking 10 g of fresh leaves of Strobilanthes
Jlaccidifolius under in water anaerobic condition by covering with cloth. It was kept
for two days for fermentation to produce indoxyl from the indigo precursors namely
indican, isatin and isatan. Then it was aerated with a magnetic stirrer for indoxyl to
get converted to the indigo dyes till it becomes thick;
ii. said extract is mixed with the extracts of mordants and other additives to make the
dye and it can be thickened by using a freeze drier lyophiliser.

The powdered mixture was then mixed with water and soaked for one night before
application
on human hair for dyeing.
Example 2
Synergistic effect and other dyeing characteristics includes light fastness, colour etc
using various plant extracts and their combinations were studied in Table 4. Various
formulations were prepared in accordance with the process as mentioned in example 1
by varying the mordant as shown in Table 1 and 2.

#The colour codes are scientific colour codes in hexadecimal color codes for different
shades of colour.

WE CLAIM:
1. A herbal hair dyeing composition comprising i) dyeing agent; ii) mordants and
iii) additives; such that said dyeing agent is present in an amount from 40 to 45
wt% of total weight composition; said mordants are present in an amount from
40 to 45 wt% of total weight composition; and said additives are present in an
amount from 10 to 20 wt% of total weight composition.
2. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said dyeing
agent is Strobilanthes flaccidifolius (Kum) extract.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said mordants are selected from
extracts of Psidum guava, Pasania deealbata, Ficus glomerata, Pasania
pachyphylla, Parkia roxburghii, Osbeckia chinensis, Clerodendron adoratus,
Emblica officinale, Bixa orellana Linn, Garcinia peduculata Roxb., Melastoma
malabathricum, Meyna laniflora Robyns, Solanum incidum Linn and mixtures
thereof.
4. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein ratio of said
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract to said Guava {Psidum guajava) extract is in
the range from 1:0.1 to 1:1 preferably from 1:0.2 to 1:1 by weight.
5. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein ratio of said
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract to said Heibi {Meyna laniflora Robyns)
extract is in the range from 1:0.1 to 1:1 preferably from 1:0.2 to 1:0.6 by
weight.
6. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein ratio of said
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract to said Yongchak {Parkia roxburghii) extract
is in the range from 1:0.05 to 1:1 preferably from 1:0.1 to 1:0.3 by weight.
7. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein ratio of said
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract to said Yachubi {Melastoma malabathricum)
extract is in the range from 1:0.05 to 1:1 preferably from 1:0.1 to 1:0.3 by
weight.

8. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein ratio of said
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract to said KJiammu {Solarium incidum Linn)
extract is in the range of from 1:0.1 to 1:2 preferably from 1:0.5 to 1:2 by
weight.
9. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein ratio of said
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract to said Heibung (Garcinia peduculata Roxb.)
extract is in the range from 1:0.05 to 1:1 preferably from 1:0.1 to 1:0.3 by
weight.
10. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein ratio of said
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract to said ureirom (Bixa orellana Linn) extract
is in the range from 10: 1 to 3:1 preferably from 8:1 to 6:1 by weight.
11. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein ratio of said
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract to said Heikru (Emblica officinalis) extract is
in the range from 1:0.1 to 1:1 by weight.
12. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein ratio of said
Strobilanthes flaccidifolius extract to any one of said Kuthap (Clerodendron
adoratus) extract, said sahi (Pasania deealbata extract) or said kuhi (Pasania
pachyphylla) extract is in the range from 1:0.1 to 1:1 by weight.
13. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said additive
is a conditioner, preferably an aromatic conditioner.
14. The herbal hair dyeing composition as claimed in claim 13, wherein said
aromatic conditioner is selected from extract of Pogostemon purpurascens and
charot Cymbopogon nardus L.
15. A process for preparation of hair dye composition as claimed in any of claims 1
to 14 comprising steps of
i) soaking fresh leaves of Strobilanthes flaccidifolius in water under
anaerobic condition by covering with cloth;
ii) fermenting said leaves;
iii) aerating fermenting broth of step (ii) to get extract of Strobilanthes
flaccidifolius;

iv) mixing fermented said extract of Strobilanthes flaccidifolius with
mordants selected from extracts of Psidum guajava, Pasania deealbata,
Ficus glomerata, Pasania pachyphylla, Parkia roxburghii, Osbeckia
chinensis, Clerodendron adoratus, Emblica officinale, Bixa orellana
Linn, Garcinia peduculata Roxb., Melastoma malabathricum, Meyna
laniflora Robyns, and Solanum incidum Linn and mixtures thereof;
v) incorporating aromatic conditioner as additives to above mixture;
vi) thickening the mixture of Strobilanthes flaccidifolius, mordants and
aromatic conditioner as obtained in step v; and
vii) optionally further freeze drying or lyophilizing the mixture to obtain said
herbal hair dye composition.

ABSTRACT

The present invention provides a herbal hair dyeing composition comprising i) dyeing
agent; ii) mordants and iii) additives; such that said dyeing agent is present in an amount
from 40 to 45 wt% of total weight composition; said mordants are present in an amount
from 40 to 45 wt% of total weight composition; and said additives are present in an
amount from 10 to 20 wt% of total weight composition. The present invention also
provides a process for the preparation of the herbal hair dyeing.