"Gel aqueous or hydro-alcoholic synthetic phyllosilicates agent as viscosity modifier, matting and / or homogenizing application" The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products specifically dedicated to the care and / or making up the skin, nails and lips and aims to provide compositions with improved performance in terms of dullness, viscosity and / or consistency after application and advantageously satisfactory simultaneously on all of these properties.

Much of consumers of cosmetic products for the care or make up the skin, lips or nails, is now pending products that are able to provide an effect in terms of dullness and uniformity after application that has improved since then might be seen as a natural result. This expectation is particularly required in general with regard to the care products, but now for some products dedicated to makeup. Moreover, these same users maintain their usual requirements in these cosmetics namely pleasant consistency and easy to handle, "play-time" or acceptable spreading qualities tarnished sensory feel and durability, properties which fall an aspect rather rheological.

For obvious reasons, meet all of these requirements is not immediate for the formulator of cosmetics.

For example, a satisfactory viscosity in terms of the consistency can be detrimental in contrast uniformity of result required after application. However, inhomogeneous result will affect the quality of the deposit. In make-up, it can translate eg an inhomogeneous distribution of pigments and dyes. Similarly, it can also be detrimental to a care product conveying active in the image such as UV filters. For obvious reasons, it is important that the care formula is distributed evenly on the skin to facilitate the action of these assets.

Similarly, performance actually verified on normal skin, for example in terms of dullness and uniformity after application, can not be reproduced on oily skin. In fact, the secretion of sebum observed on oily skin has the effect of generating an undesirable skin shine. On such skin, a uniform and natural result, and therefore generally dull, provided by a care or makeup product, unfortunately tends to visually degrade during the day. The initial matting as well as the homogeneous effect are thus altered.

Consequently, it is difficult today to have a cosmetic care or makeup on the one hand, giving satisfaction to all its expectations and, secondly, the performance can be verified on a number very off consumers. Thus, among these consumers are also users whose skin has fine lines, wrinkles or pores. The homogeneous and natural outcome of these users also usually requires a reduction in the depth perception of the treated area or makeup.

To meet these different expectations of users, it is conventionally used in cosmetic compositions several kinds of inorganic or organic fillers. According to their chemical nature and their physicochemical properties, they can target certain specific consumer expectations. For example, fillers having optical scattering properties, light known to soft-focus effect (or blurring) allow optically smooth the microrelief and hide imperfections of the skin. Other fillers known for their ability to absorb sebum and sweat are preferred to ensure a mattifying effect over time.

As representative of the most used fillers, can in particular be cited specific charges to the image of the particles of hydrophobic silica (aerogels hydrophobic silica) as described in WO2013 / 1901 12, WO2013 / 160362, WO13190104, WO 13194100 or, or silicas functionalized with anionic groups as described in US2005 / 0192366. Mention may also be some micas coated with inorganic and / or polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), starch, nylon powders, polyethylene powders, poly-beta-alanine, poly powders (meth) acrylate methyl, boron nitride, or the natural talc of particle size (or average particle size) 1.8 micron or perlite.

However, none of these charges can meet all the above requirements. In addition, the implementation of some of these charges may cause undesirable side effects in some cosmetic formulations.

And nylon powders, PMMA, boron nitride, natural talc or silica airgel are difficult to disperse in aqueous media and can result in a coarse feel. Perlite is a tendency, after settling to form a hard deposit re-

homogenize when introduced in aqueous solutions. As for the natural talc, it presents the risk of containing asbestos or heavy metals, which is not favorable in a cosmetic environment. On the other hand, its crushing from natural block does not control its purity and size of the particles obtained. In addition, it is hydrophobic, which does not promote its dispersion in aqueous compositions.

There is thus a need for a material to satisfy all the above requirements.

In particular, there remains the need for a material which, formulated in a cosmetic product, gives it an improved consistency after application without affecting other performance particularly in terms of rheological and sensory quality felt.

There also remains a need for material with soft focus and matting performance, the effect of which can be verified and this so prolonged over time on a wide variety of skins types, eg normal, oily, but also wrinkled.

There also remains a need for a material with satisfactory properties in terms of dispersion, to allow its evenly fonmilation stabilized across architectures usually seen in the area of ​​care and makeup, while n ' not significantly altering other expected rheological properties.

Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the implementation of a synthetic phyllosilicate 3Si4Gio formula M (OH) 2 in the form of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel precisely allows to satisfy all these requirements.

synthetic sheet silicate type of material according to the invention are known from the prior art, and are described in the patent applications FR 2,969,594 and FR 2 925 529. Particularly suitable for the invention of phyllo silicates such as those described in patent application WO2008 / 009799 and advantageously those disclosed in FR 2977580.

However, none of these documents considers the valuation of these synthetic phyllosilicates obtained in compositions within the cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical.

Thus, in a first aspect, the invention relates to the use of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel of synthetic layered silicate of the formula Mg 3 Si40io (OH) 2 in a cosmetic composition.

According to one embodiment, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is implemented as a viscosity modifier.

According to another embodiment, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is implemented as a matting agent.

In yet another embodiment, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is implemented as a homogenizing agent after application, or homogenizing application.

According to another embodiment, an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel according to the invention is implemented as a thickening agent, matting agent and application homogenizing agent.

In addition, the inventors have also observed that an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel according to the invention allows to provide a composition comprising the improved properties of soft focus, that is to say a correction effect of the skin imperfections improved.

Such a gel also makes it possible advantageously to impart a natural result after applying the composition comprising the same.

It has also been observed an improvement in the wettability of a composition comprising a gel according to the invention.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic, comprising at least one aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel synthetic phyllosilicate formula Mg3Si 4 Oio (OH) 2 and at least one additional ingredient, distinct from said synthetic phyllosilicate gel selected from silicone fatty substances such as oils, gums and silicone waxes; non-silicone fatty substances such as oils, pastes and waxes of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic; fatty acids having from 8 to 32 carbon atoms; esters and synthetic ethers; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms; alcohols, C 2 -CE; glycols; surfactants; aqueous or oily gelling agents; cosmetic active agents; the perfumes ; the charges ; dyestuffs; vitamins; conservatives ; film-forming polymers (tensors or not); and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention, comprising said aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel phyllo synthetic silicate has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm "1 , corresponding to the stretching vibration assigned to silanol Si-OH groups on the edge sheets of synthetic phyllosilicate of the invention.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention is characterized by an absence of absorption band at 7156 cm "1 . This band corresponds to the band of vibration of Mg 2 FeOH.

A composition according to the present invention also, preferably, an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm "1 corresponding to the stretching vibration 2v Mg 3 OH.

It should be noted that in the presence of adsorbed water by residual example, an infrared absorption band is detectable, easily identifiable, e.g., 5500 cm "1 .

According to an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously comprise, as additional ingredient at least one compound selected from lipophilic fillers, pigments, in particular hydrophobic, hydrophobic polymers, non-polar or silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

The presence of such additional ingredient is found in particularly interesting effect when the composition according to the invention aims to provide a matte effect.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for making and / or skin care and / or nails comprising at least one step of applying to said skin and / or said nails of a composition comprising , in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel synthetic phyllosilicate formula Mg3Si40io (OH) 2 . Such a composition can be as described later in this text.

By "skin" means the skin of the face and / or body and semimucosae

(lips). Preferably, it will be the skin of the face and / or body and / or lips.

For obvious reasons, a composition of the invention intended to be applied on nails also means a composition intended to be applied to false nails, since the desired cosmetic effects are often identical.

In a preferred embodiment, said method is dedicated to provide a mattifying make-up result and / or homogeneous skin tone.

Preferably, the skin, and better facial skin, may feature a greasy or shiny skin.

Phyllosilicate SYNTHETIC INVENTION

Synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention has a crystalline structure consistent with that of a hydroxylated magnesium silicate of molecular formula Mg3Si 4 Oio (OH) 2 belonging to the chemical family of phyllosilicates.

These phyllosilicates are generally constituted by a stack of elementary layers of crystal structure, the number of which varies from a few units to a few tens of units. Each individual sheet is constituted by the combination of two layers of tetrahedrons, in which are positioned the silicon atoms, situated on either side of a layer of octahedrons in which magnesium atoms position themselves. This group corresponds to 2/1 phyllosilicates, also termed EARLY kind (tetrahedron-octahedron-tetrahedron).

As discussed above, a synthetic layered silicate according to the invention can be obtained by a process of preparation such as that described in application WO2008 / 009799 and is préférentiellemeni. obtained according to the technology described in patent application FR 2,977,580.

This preparation process comprises in particular an extended hydrothermal treatment, which allows to obtain an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate. Thus, the synthetic layered silicate according to the invention is implemented spokes form of an aqueous gel or hydroaîcoolique, including the image of the directly obtained at the ' end of the synthetic process.

As described in application FR 2977580, the parameters that influence the synthesis and properties of a synthetic phyllosilicate in gel form suitable for

the invention are the nature of the heat treatment (200 ° C to 900 ° C), pressure, nature of the reactants and their proportions.

Specifically, the time and temperature of the hydrothermal treatment to control the particle size. For example, the higher the temperature, the smaller the synthesized particles are small as described in the GB 2 977 580. The size control allows to bring new properties and better control of its properties both hydrophilic and hydrophobic that is to say amphiphilic.

Analysis and structural characterization of a synthetic layered silicate suitable for the invention

A synthetic phyllosilicate. Suitable for the invention can be characterized by various parameters, namely the absorption bands. infrared, size, purity, as detailed below.

Under certain conditions, the analyzes such as nuclear magnetic resonance in particular 29 Si may be useful for the characterization of a synthetic layered silicate suitable for the invention. Similarly, the thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) can be implemented for the characterization of a synthetic layered silicate suitable for the invention. Finally, the X-ray diffraction may also be used for this purpose.

Infrared

method used

The apparatus used was a Nicolet 6700 FTIR spectrometer with Fourier transform, equipped with an integrating sphere with a INGAA detector and a separating CaF2 and a resolution of 12 cm "1 , more preferably from 8 cm " 1 and again more preferably from 4 cm "1 . in other words the values of absorption bands given in this description are to be regarded as being roughly 6 cm " 1 and more preferably plus or minus 4 cm "1 and even more preferably roughly 2 cm "1 .

Records in the near infrared region stretching to 7184 cm "1 were decomposed by Pseudo Voigts to Fityk I using the software (Wojdyr, 2010).

To show the absorption spectrum in a composition comprising at least one aqueous portion, such as an emulsion, it is recommended to heat this

composition to a temperature corresponding to a temperature greater than or equal to 100 ° C (e.g. 120 ° C) and less than or equal to 500 ° C (e.g. 400 ° C) to remove the water adsorbed portion and, optionally one part or all of the (of) compound (s) organic (s) present (s) in the composition.

Generally to confirm an absorption band, the expert performs stretching enlargements. In particular, the latter may for example make such enlargements roughly 200 cm "1 on either side of a suspected absorption band.

Talc is a natural mineral species composed of magnesium silicate doubly hydroxylated formula Mg3Si 4 Ojo (OH) 2 , which may contain traces of nickel, iron, aluminum, calcium or sodium.

Natural talc has an infrared spectrum having an absorption band characteristic, fine and intense, of 7184 cm "1 corresponding to the stretching vibration 2v Mg 3 OH. The natural talc generally has chemical elements substituent magnesium and silicon in the crystal structure which require the appearance of at least one additional absorption band, in particular that corresponding to the stretching vibration of 7156 cm " 'due to 2v Mg 2 FeOH.

The spectrum of phyllo synthetic silicate suitable for the invention differs from a natural talc by an absorption band of 7200 cm "1 corresponding to the stretching vibration assigned to. Silanol Si-OH groups on the edge of the leaflets.

To confirm this absorption band in the art may make a magnification of stretching, particularly in the area of 7400 cm "1 - 7000 cm "! , More particularly in the region of 7300 cm "1 - 7100 cm " 1 .

Preferably, the synthetic phyllosilicate of the spectrum according to the invention is also characterized in that it shows no absorption band of 7156 cm "1 , corresponding to the absorption band of Mg 2 FeOH.

Preferably, the synthetic phyllosilicate of the spectrum according to the invention is also characterized by the absorption band of 7184 cm "1 common to natural talc.

It should be noted that in the presence of adsorbed water by residual example, a broad absorption band is detectable, easily identifiable, e.g., 5500 cm "1 .

In addition, a composition according to the present invention comprising said synthetic phyllosilicate, has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm "1

corresponding to the stretching vibration assigned to silanol Si-OH groups on the edge of the leaflets.

Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprising said phyllo synthetic silicate, is characterized by a lack of infrared absorption band of 7156 cm "1 , corresponding to the vibration band of Mg 2 FeOH.

The composition according to the present invention comprising said synthetic phyîlosilicate also present, preferably an infrared absorption band at 7184 cm "1 corresponding to the stretching vibration 2v Mg 3 OH.

In a composition according to the invention, it should be noted that in the presence of adsorbed water by residual example, a wide IR absorption band is detectable, easily identifiable, e.g., 5500 cm "! .

Cut

method used

In order to achieve the particle size analysis of synthetic silicates suitable for the invention, photon correlation spectroscopy was used. This analytical technique allows access to the particle size based on the principle of dynamic light scattering. This device measures over time the intensity of the light scattered by the particles at an angle Θ considered and the scattered rays are then processed by the Pade-Laplace algorithm.

This technique, nondestructive, requires a set of particles solution. The particle size measurement obtained by this technique corresponds to the value of the hydrodynamic diameter of the particle, that is to say comprising both the particle size but also the thickness of the hydration layer.

Analyzes were performed using a particle size analyzer VASCO-2 Cordouan.

In order to obtain statistical information about the distribution of the particles, the Nanoq ™ software was used in multi-acquisition mode with the Padé-Laplace algorithm.

Thus, a synthetic phyîlosilicate suitable for the invention, in the form of aqueous or hydroalcooïique gel, preferably has an average size ranging from 300 nm to 500 nm.

These characteristics are advantageous vis-à-vis a natural talc of which one of the constraints is the uncontrolled dimension of its particles.

Purity

Synthetic phyllosilicate considered according to the invention has a degree of purity of at least 99.90%, preferably at least 99.99%.

It is thus advantageously devoid of impurities or undesirable compounds which include in particular asbestos research as asbestos (serpentine), chlorite, carbonates, heavy metals, sulphides of iron, etc., which are generally associated with the natural talc and / or incorporated into the structure of natural talcs.

NMR (Nuclear Magnetic Resonance)

methods

NMR spectra of the silicon 29 ( 29 Si) have been recorded in a BRU ER spectrometer Avance 400 (9.4 T). The reference is the chemical shift (TMS). The samples were placed in zirconia rotors 4 mm. The rotation speed around the magic angle (MAS) was set at 8 kHz. The experiments were performed at room temperature of 21 ° C.

Spectra 2 If were obtained by direct polarization (rotation of 30 °) with a recycle time of 60 s or by cross-polarization (CP) between the 1 H and 29 Si (recycle time of 5 s and contact times of 3 ms).

NMR silicon ( 29 Si), natural talc has a single peak at -97 ppm.

NMR silicon ( 29 Si), in contrast to natural talc, synthetic phyllosilicate of the spectrum according to the invention shows two peaks: one located at -95 ppm and -97 ppm in another location, without requiring size fractionation on a size less than 500 nm.

ATG (analyse thermogravimétrique

method used

The recordings were made using a Perkin Elmer thermobalance

Diamonds.

For each analysis, approximately 20 mg of sample was needed. During the analysis, the sample is subjected to a temperature rise from 30 ° C to 1200 ° C with a step of 10 ° C.min ! " In a 100 mL.mi flow 1 air .

The synthetic phyllosilicate thermograviniétrique analysis according to the invention shows a lower thermal stability (around 800 ° C) than that of the natural talc and is characterized by four mass losses in contrast to natural talc which possesses one at around 900 ° C.

To establish these masses of beads it is useful to refer to the article Angela Dumas, François Martin, Christophe Le Roux, Pierre Micoud, Sabine Petit, Eric Ferrage Jocelyne Brendle Olivier Grauby Mike Hooper Greenhilï "Phyilosilicates synthesis: a way of Accessing edges contributions in NMR and FTIR spectroscopy. Example of synthetic talc "Phys Chem Minerals, published February 27, 2013.

X-ray diffraction

method used

Analysis of the X-ray diffraction, in particular using materials and methods used for the analysis X-ray diffraction, are detailed in FR 2977580.

Preferably, since the X-ray diffraction occurs only on solids, to show the absorption spectrum in a composition comprising at least one aqueous portion, such as an emulsion, it is recommended to heat the composition to a temperature corresponding to a temperature greater than or equal to 100 ° C (e.g. 120 ° C) and less than or equal to 500 ° C (e.g. 400 ° C) to remove the water adsorbed part and optionally a portion or the whole (of) compound (s) organic (s) present (s) in the composition.

The X-ray diffractogram of the synthetic layered silicate suitable for the invention has the same positions of the diffraction lines as those of natural talc, with the exception of a line. Indeed, the natural talc has a diffraction line at 9.36 Å while the phyllosilicate s ynthétique according to the invention has a greater than 9.4 Å diffraction line, and up to 9.8 Å.

More particularly, the synthetic phyllosilicate according to the ' invention has a stripe of higher diffraction to 9.4 Å and less than or equal to 9.8 Å.

Synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention preferably has a higher diffraction line or equal to 9.5 Å, preferably greater than or equal to 9.6 Å, and preferably greater than or equal to 9.7 Å.

Synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention preferably has a lower diffraction line or equal to 9.7 Å, preferably less than or equal to 9.6 Å, and preferably less than or equal to 9.5 Å.

Synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention may have further a diffraction line between 4.60 Å and 4.80 Å, and / or a diffraction line between 3.10 Å and 3.20 Å and / or a diffraction line in the range between 1.51 a and 1 A. 53

It should be noted that a synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is devoid of interlayer cations. Indeed, this characteristic is demonstrated by the absence of X-ray diffraction line at a distance of between 12.00 Å and 18.00 Å, usually indicating a swelling phase having interlayer spaces in which there are interlayer cations and possible water molecules.

It is understood that, a synthetic layered silicate according to the invention is in gel form, the "wt%" means "% by weight dry matter" or "% by weight of active material".

Synthetic phyllosilicate form gel may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 40% by weight of active material, in particular from 0.05% to 30% by weight of active material , preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight of active material, more preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Ingredients

As indicated above, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one separate ingredient in the synthetic phyllosilicate required according to the invention.

This additional ingredient may suitably be selected from compounds and additives conventionally considered for the formulation of cosmetic compositions.

It may thus be at least one selected ingredient conventionally to form an oily phase or an aqueous phase in a composition.

Thus, according to a first embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises as additional ingredient at least one constituent consisting of a fatty phase.

The latter may in particular be selected from a hydrocarbon or silicone oil, polar or apolar, volatile or non-volatile, a wax, a pasty compound, and a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises as additional ingredient at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises as additional ingredient at least one hydxocarbonée oil, this oil being chosen in particular from volatile hydro carbonaceous oils Cs-C i6, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, higher fatty acids, C I2-C22; and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises as an additional ingredient according to the invention at least one constituent consisting of an aqueous phase, in particular chosen from alcohols, preferably lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and polyols, preferably selected from polyols having 2 to 32 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises as an additional ingredient according to the invention at least one fatty alcohol or ester.

It can also be a particular ingredient considered to structure and stabilize or Γ architecture of a cosmetic composition in the image for example, surfactants, gelling agents and fillers.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises as an additional ingredient according to the invention at least one compound selected from nonionic, anionic or amphoteric; the charges ; gelling agents; and mixtures thereof.

It can also be selected from the ingredients dedicated to providing a particular activity such as cosmetic actives such as moisturizers, anti-aging and / or vitamins, ingredients having intended to give the composition a specific visual or sensory effect image dyestuffs pigments kind, pearls and perfume or to guarantee him an ongoing contamination default time as the Conservatives.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises as an additional ingredient according to the invention at least one compound selected from the active

cosmetics, particularly among the moisturizing agents, anti-aging, whitening, anti-perspirant agents; ionic and nonionic surfactants; vitamins; anti-UV filters; colorants, preferably chosen from pigments and nacres; and perfumes, preferably essential oils.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises as an additional ingredient of the invention, at least one of hyaluronic acid, cross-linked or not, or one of its derivatives or salts, in particular the one of its salts monovalent cation selected from sodium and potassium, or multi alent selected from calcium, zinc, copper and manganese.

Of course, a composition can contain one or more ingredients defined above and as detailed below.

fatty phase

A composition according to the invention may also comprise a fatty phase. Within the meaning of the invention, a fatty phase includes any liquid fatty substance, generally oils (also called liquid or oily fatty phase) or solid image waxes or pasty compounds (also called hardstock).

The fatty phase of a composition of the invention may be solely composed of a liquid fatty phase or a solid fatty phase, or may comprise a mixture of a liquid fatty phase and a solid fatty phase.

This fatty phase can advantageously be from 10% to 90% by weight, in particular from 15% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may contain less than 5% by weight of fatty phase, or even less than 2% by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition, or even be free phase fat.

Thus, a composition according to the invention, particularly its fatty phase may contain at least one ingredient chosen from fatty substances such as silicone oils, gums and silicone waxes; non-silicone fatty substances such as hydrocarbon or fluorinated oils, pasty and waxes of plant origin, mineral, animal and / or synthetic; fatty acids having from 8 to 32 carbon atoms; esters and synthetic ethers; the

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms.

Oils

The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

An oily phase suitable for the preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon or silicone oil, polar or nonpolar, or a mixture thereof.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

We. term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example, in the form of hydroxyl radicals or acids.

The oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.

They may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment, the vegetable oils are preferred.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure less than 0.13 Pa.

"Volatile oil" is meant within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, especially having a nonzero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 " 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

volatile oils

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may especially

comprise at least one volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil.

A volatile hydrocarbon oil may in particular be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched alkanes CS-go as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) Ca-Cie, isododecane, the isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched esters, Cs-Ci 6 as neopentanoate isohexyl, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and lïsohexadécane.

Mention may also be volatile linear alkanes containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, especially 10 to 15 carbon atoms, more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane (Cl 2) and n-tetradecane (C-4) sold by Sasol under the references respectively PARAFOL PARAFOL 12-97 and 14-97, as well as mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Ci l) and n tridecane (Cl 3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of WO 2008/155059 the Cog iis Corporation, and mixtures thereof.

A volatile silicone oil can be chosen in particular from linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane. decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, rhexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

A volatile silicone oil may be chosen from cyclic volatile silicone oils, such as for example Fhexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.

non volatiles

A composition according to the invention may also comprise, as additional ingredient, at least one non-volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may be suitable for the invention, mention may be made:

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin,

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,

- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2, wherein R represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid having 8 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, including branched containing from 1 to

40 carbon atoms provided that R + R 2 is> 10.

These esters may be chosen from the esters of fatty acid, such as, cetearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2 ~ ethyl-hexyl } isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, the hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols. hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, and esters of isononanoic acid, as

Pisononanoate d'isononyle, et l'isononanoate d'isotridécyle,

- esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

- liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, fatty alcohols usable in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned lauryl alcohol, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, palmityl, oleyl, cetyl or cetearyl (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl, erucyl, arachidyl, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, the 'isocetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof

- higher fatty acids -C 2 ~ C 22 , such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

For its part, the non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from:

- silicone non phenylated oils, such as the caprylyl méthycone or your polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and

- silicone oils, phenylated, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl

triméthylsiioxysilicates, dimethicone or phenyl trimethicone lower viscosity than or equal to 100 cSt, the triméthylpentaphényltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures of these oils.

Thus, in one embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises at least one additional ingredient, said additional ingredient is:

- at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature with a branched chain and / or unsaturated having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms and higher fatty acids C12-C22; and or

- at least one non-volatile silicone oil chosen from silicone oils and non-phenylated silicone phenylated oils, and / or

- one of their mixtures.

Preferably, a composition of the invention comprises as an additional ingredient according to the invention at least one volatile silicone oil and / or non-volatile.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional ingredients solubilized in oils such as silicone resins as the trii uoiOméthyl-Ci-4-alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl, and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by Shin-Etsu under the "Trefil" designation by Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by Grant Industries; and mixtures thereof.

The oily phase according to the invention may in particular have a yield stress greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. This yield stress value reflects a gel-like texture of this oily phase.

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one solid fatty substance chosen from gums, silicone or hydrocarbon waxes, pasty and waxes of vegetable, mineral and / or synthetic.

Cherry

By "wax" in the sense of the present invention is meant a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (25 ° C), to a reversible solid / liquid change having a melting temperature above 30 ° C up up to 200 ° C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture at room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of mixed.

The waxes used in the invention are solid compounds at room temperature, intended to structure the composition in particular in stick form; they may be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone waxes and may be of plant, mineral and / or synthetic origin. In particular, they have a melting temperature at 40 ° C and better still greater than 45 ° C.

As wax used in the invention include those generally used in cosmetics: they are of natural origin such as beeswax, carnauba wax, of CandeliUa, of ouricury, Japan, fibers cork or sugar cane, rice, Montan wax, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes or esters of fatty acids such Poctacosanyl stearate, glycerides that are solid at 40 ° C and better 45 ° C , silicone waxes, for instance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, esters of poly (di) methylsiloxane that are solid at 40 ° C and whose ester chain contains at least 10 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.

pasty compound

By "paste" in the sense of the present invention is meant a lipophilic fatty compound, with a reversible solid / liquid change, and comprising at a temperature of 25 ° C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

A pasty compound is advantageously chosen from:

lanolin and its derivatives,

fluorinated polymeric compounds or not,

silicone compounds polymeric or not,

vinyl polymers, including:

homopolymers of olefins,

copolymers of olefins,

homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated diene,

linear or branched oligomers, homo- or copolymers of (meth) acrylates of alkyls having preferably an alkyl C 8 -C 30,

homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having alkyl groups Cs-Cso,

oligomers which are homo- and copolymers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups of C8-C30,

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more diols C2-CIOO, preferably C2-C50,

esters,

polyvinyl laurate; and

mixtures thereof.

Aqueous phase

As is apparent from the above composition of the invention contains an aqueous phase formed at least in part by the gel or aqueous-alcohol of synthetic phyllosilicate.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is the aqueous phase, that is to say that the aqueous phase consists solely of this gel.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention further contains at least one hydrophilic Annex ingredient.

Thus, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may further comprise water and / or an aqueous solvent sol uble.

"Water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

Water-soluble solvents used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble solvent chosen from lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, and polyols.

Polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition of the present invention are those having from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol may be for instance selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol , polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least butylene glycol and / or glycerol.

The aqueous phase may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 98%, 5% to 95%, more preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight, relative to total weight of said composition.

Ingredients selected from surfactants, gelling agents and fillers

surfactants

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight of surfactants (s), preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition and in particular 1 , 0% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The surfactants may be selected from nonionic surfactants, aniomques, aniphotères and mixtures thereof. We can refer to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer", volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3 rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and functions

emulsifying surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for the anionic surfactants, and nonionic ampbotères.

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon surfactant, a silicone surfactant, and a mixture thereof.

Exemplary hydrocarbon surfactants suitable for the invention are described below.

nonionic surfactants

Nonionic surfactants may be chosen especially from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly (ethylene oxide), the oxyalkyiénés alcohols, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly (ethylene oxide), alkyl- and polyalkyl - sorbitan esters, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, alkyl- and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, especially alkyl- and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl - sucrose esters, alkyl glycerol and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers glycéroï, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise and mixtures thereof.

1) As alkyl- and polyalkyl esters of poly (ethylene oxide) used is preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) of from 2 to 200. It may be mentioned for example stearate 40 EO, 50 EO stearate, 100 oE stearate, laurate 20 EO, laurate 40 EO, the EO 150 distearate.

2) As alkyl- and polyalkyl ethers of poly (ethylene oxide) used is preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) of from 2 to 200. It may be mentioned for example cetyl ether 23 EO, 50 EO oleyl ether, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth 100, the beheneth 100.

3) As oxyalkyiénés alcohols, more particularly oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated preferably used those which can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular having 20 to i 00 oxyethylene units, especially fatty alcohols, including CVC24, and preferably C 2 -C 18 , such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20") as the BRU 78 sold by the company UN1QEMA, cetearyl alcohol ethoxylated to 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of fatty alcohols C12-C15

comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C 12-15 Pareth-7 ') as that sold under the name Neodol 25-7 ® by Shell Chemicals; or in particular alcohols oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) having from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, especially fatty alcohols, C 8 -C 2 4, and preferably C 12-C 1 S, fl oxyl such that stéaryiique alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2") as the BRU 72 marketed by U IQEMA;

4) As alkyl- and polyalkyl esters.de sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, are preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) of from 0 to 100. It may be mentioned for example laurate 4 or sorbitan 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate) such as the product marketed Tween 20 by Uniqema, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan stearate 20 EO oleate sorbitan 20 EO or the Cremophor (HR 40, HR 60 ...) from BASF.

5) As alkyl- and polyalkyl sorbitan ethers, polyoxyethylenated or. no, there are preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) from 0 to

100.

6) As alkyl- and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, preferably used are those containing an alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group comprising preferably from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. The aJkylpolyglucosides can be chosen, for example decyl glucoside (alkyl-Cg / Ci i-polyglucoside (1.4)) as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP ® by Henkel and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 ® by Seppic; the caprylyi / caprylglucoside the product sold under the name Plantacare KE 3711 ® by Cognis or Oramix CG January 10 ® by Seppic; lauryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 1200 UP ® by Henkel or Plantaren® 1200 N ® by Henkel; cocoglucoside the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 UP ® by Henkel; the caprylylglucoside the product sold under the name Plantacare 810 UP ® by Cognis. or surfactants of alkylpolyglucoside types sold under the commercial reference MONTANOV; and mixtures thereof.

More generally, alkylpolyglycoside type surfactants are defined more specifically later.

7) As alkyl- and polyalkyl sucrose esters that may be mentioned for example the Crodesta F 150. sucrose monolaurate sold under the name Crodesta SL 40, the products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester as for example, sucrose palmite marketed under reference the Ryoto Sugar Ester I 670, the Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695, the Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570.

8) As alkyl- and polyalkyl glycerol esters, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, are preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) of from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. One can for example mention the hexaglycéryl monolaurate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate.

9) As alkyl- and polyalkyl glycerol ethers, polyoxyethylenated or otherwise, are preferably used those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) of from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30. examples include Nikkol batyl alcohol 100, Nikkol chimyl alcohoi 100.

As a nonionic surfactant according to the invention can also be cited a mixture mono / distearate / polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO).

surfactants anionigu.es

The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, acid metal salts fatty C10-C30, especially C12-C20, in particular metallic stearates and mixtures thereof.

1) As alkyl ether sulfates which may be mentioned for example sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70-30) (2.2 EO) sold under the names SIPON AOS225 or Texapon N702 by Henkel, lauryl ether sulfate ammonium (Cl 70-30 2-14) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon A LE 370 by Henkel, alkyl P (C 2-C] 4 ether (9 EO) sulphate sold under the name Rhodapex AB / 20 by Rhodia Chimie, and the mixture of lauryl and oleyl ether sulfate sodium and magnesium sold under the name EMPICOL BSD 52 by the company Albright & Wilson.

2) As carboxylates, mention may be made, for example, salts (eg alkali) of N-acylamino acids, the glycolcarboxylates, amido ether carboxylates (AEC) and polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts.

The surfactant of the type glycol carboxylate may be selected from alkyl glycol carboxylic or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy acetate), their salts and mixtures thereof. These alkyl glycol carboxylic comprise a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic and / or aromatic, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. These carboxylic groups can be neutralized with inorganic bases such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.

As surfactants of the carboxylic glycol, there may be mentioned, for example sodium lauryl glycol carboxylate, or 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy sodium acetate) such as the product sold under the name Beaulight Shaa ® by the company Sanyo, Beaulight LCA-25N ® or the corresponding acid form Beaulight Shaa (acid form) ® .

As amido ether carboxylate (AEC), there may be mentioned for example sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO), sold under the name Akypo Foam 30 ® by the company Kao Chemicals.

As polyoxyethylene carboxylic acid salt include for example sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-14-16 65/25/10) oxyethylenated (6 EO) sold under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV ® by the company Kao Chemicals , the original fatty acids of olive oil polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated marketed under the name Olivem 400 ® by Biologia E Tecnologia, tri-tridecyl ether sodium carboxylate oxyethylenated (6 EO) sold under the name NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX ® by Nikkol.

3) As derivatives of amino acids, there may be mentioned alkali metal salts of amino acids such as:

- sarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NE 97 ® by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30 ® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol SARCOSINATE MN * ! by Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol SARCOSINATE PN ® by the company Nikkol.

alaninates, such as N-lauroyl-N-methyl sodium amidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30 ® by the company

Nikkol, or sold under the name Alanone FTA ® by Kawaken, N-lauroyl-N-methyl triethanolamine sold under the name Alanone ALTA ® by Kawaken.

glutamates, such as mono-triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12 ® by Ajinomoto, the triethanolamine lauroyl sold under the dénominatio AC YL GLUTAMATE LT-12 ® by the company Ajinomoto.

The salts and / or derivatives ' glutamic acid are described in more detail subsequently.

- aspartate. as the mixture of N-lauroylaspartate triethanolamine / N-myristoyl aspartate triethanolamine sold under the name Asparack® ® by the company Mitsubishi.

glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the names Amilite GCS-12 ® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto.

citrates such as citric monoester of ethoxylated coconut alcohols (9 moles) sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt.

galacturonates such as dodecyl D-galactoside uronate marketed by Soliance.

4) As sulfonates that. Examples include alpha-olefin sulfonates such as the alpha-olefin sulfonate (Cn-IE) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 ® by the company Stepan, marketed under the name Witconate AOS PROTEGE ® and Sulframine AOS PH 12 ® by Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge aS-40 CG ® by the company Stepan, secondary sodium sulfonate sold under the name Toléfme HOSTAPUR * SAS 30 by Clariant;

5) As isethionates include the isethionates such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P ® by Jordan.

6) As taurates include the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon CT PATE ® by the company

Clariant; N-acyï N-methyl taurates such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF * by Clariant or sold under the name NIK OL CMT-30-T ® by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl methyltaurate sodiu sold under the name Nikkol PMT ® by the company Nikkol.

7) As sulfosuccinates include, for example, mono-sulfosuccinate of lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70:30) oxyethylenated (3 EO) sold under the names SETAC1N 103 SPECIAL ® , Rewopol SB FA 30 K-4 ® by Witco, the disodium salt of a sulfosuccinate hemi alcohols Q-C CM, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste ® by Zschimmer Schwarz, lOléamidosulfosuccinate disodium oxyethylenated (2 EO) sold under the name STAND APOL SH 135 ® by the company Henkel, the monosulphosuccinate lauric amide oxyethylenated (5 EO) sold under the name Lebon A-5000 ® by the company Sanyo, the disodium salt of mono-lauryl sulfosuccinate citrate oxyethylenated ( 10 EO) sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50 ® by Witco, monosulphosuccinate of ricinoleic monoethanolamide sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333 ® by Witco. You can also use polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone sulfosuccinate sold under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by the company MacIntyre.

8) As alkyl sulfoacetate, there may be mentioned include the mixture of sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, lauryl ether sulfosuccinate disodium, sold under the name Stepan-Mild LSB by the company Stepan.

9) Phosphates and alkyl phosphates that may be mentioned for example monoalkylphosphat.es and dialkyl phosphates, such as mono-lauryl phosphate sold under the name MAP 20 ® by the company Kao Chemicals, the acid potassium salt dodecyl phosphoric, mixture of monoester and diester (mainly diester), sold under the name Crafol AP-31 ® by the company Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Crafol AP -20 ® by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of phophorique acid 2-butyloctanol ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester ® by the company Condea, the potassium salt or triethanolamine mono-alkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references

Arlatone MAP 230K-40 ® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60 ® by Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate sold under the name DERMALCARE MAP XC-99/09 ® by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by the company Uniqema.

10) The polypeptides are obtained for example by condensation of a fatty chain with amino acids of cereals and notably of wheat and oats. As polypeptides, there may be mentioned for example the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by the company Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl hvdrolysée soy protein, sold under the name May-Tein SY by the company Maybrook, the sodium salt of oat lauroyl amino acids, sold under the name Proteol Oat by SEPPIC, collagen hydrolyzate grafted onto coconut fatty acid, sold under the name Geliderm 3000 by Deutsche gelatin, soy proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name Proteol VS 22 by Seppic.

11) As metal salts of fatty acids C10-C30, especially C12-C20, may be mentioned in particular metal stearates such as sodium stearate and potassium stearate, as well as polyhydroxy stearates.

Charges

The compositions according to the invention may also include at least one separate charge of synthetic sheet silicate. Of course, so choice in terms of chemical nature and amount will be adjusted so that is not affected properties conferred by the synthetic sheet silicate required parallel of the invention.

The fillers can be chosen from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical.

There may be mentioned talc, mica, silica or hydrophilic hydrophobées, aerogels, perlite, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance Nylon® sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem, poly-p-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders such as Teflon®, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as those sold under the name 'Expancel® by Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and microbeads siiicone resin (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (silica Bea DS® of Maprecos), glass microcapsules or ceramic, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and particularly from 1.2 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

Various loadings of synthetic silicate phyllo according to the invention may represent from 0.001% to 15%, in particular 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

gelling

A gelling agent according to the present invention may be selected from at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, a lipophilic gelling agent, and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites, laponite, pyrogenic silicas, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or polymeric gelling agents of natural origin such as polysaccharides non-starch, native starches, modified starches, starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, grafted hydrolyzed starches by an acrylic polymer, starch-based polymers, gum and cellulose derivative and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, a hydrophilic gelling polymer may be selected from: - homopolymers or copoiy mothers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names "Versicol F" or "Versicol" by company Allied Colloid, "Ultrahold 8" by the company Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylic acid type Synthalen K, and salts, especially sodium, polyacrylic acid (corresponding to

INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and especially a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (answering the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) sold under the name "LUVIGEL EM" by the company,

- acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names "Reten" by Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name "DARVA No. 7" by Vanderbilt, polyhydroxycarboxylic acid sodium salts sold under the name "HYDAGEN F" by Henkel,

- the polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylates, preferably modified or unmodified polymers carboxyvinyliqu.es, particularly preferred according to the present invention, acrylate / Cio-Cso-alkyl acrylate (INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TRI, Pemulen TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL EDT 2020 and even more preferentially Pemulen TR2;

- AMPS (polyaciylamidométhyl acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by the company Clariant,

- AMPS copolymer / acrylamide type or SIMULGEL Sepigel marketed by SEPPIC,

- copolymers of AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate (crosslinked or not) Aristoflex HMS type marketed by Clariant,

- polymers of chitin or chitosan anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants;

- cellulose polymers distinct from FaIkylcellulose selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, Fhydroxypropylcelmlose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, i'éthylhydroxyéthyleellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and the quaternized derivatives of cellulose;

- vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, vinyl acetate copolymer and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

- anionic, cationic associative polymers, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants such as for example maleic anhydride terpolymers / a-olefin C3U-C38 / alkyl maleate, methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated (20 EO units) or terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate oxyethylene (250E) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, or polyalkylene glycol groups. alkyl phenol ether copolymers, vmyl hydropliobes pyrrolidone and monomers containing a fatty chain; the copolymers of methacrylates or alkyl acrylates Ci-C 6 and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, copolymers of methacrylates or acrylates with hydrophilic and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, associative polyurethanes copolymers, acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride trimethyl ammonium / stearyl methacrylate;

- the polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, such as galactomannans and derivatives thereof, such as Konjac gum, gellan gum. locust bean gum, gum Fennugrec, gum Karaya, gum Tragacanth, gum arabic, gum acacia, guar gum, Fhydroxypropylguar, hydroxypropylguar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97 -1, Rhodia). chloride guar hydroxypropyl tri-methyl ammonium, xanthan derivatives. such as xanthan gum;

- alginates and carrageenan;

- the glycoaminoglycan.es;

- deoxyribonucleic acid;

- mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, especially sodium hyaluronate, chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from pyrogenic silicas, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or polymeric gelling agents of natural origin, homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids, their salts or their esters, polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylates, copolymers of AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of chitin or chitosan anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic, cellulose polymer, separate from the alkylcellulose selected from rhydroxyéthylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose,

carboxymethylcellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives, vinyl polymers and anionic associative polymers, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric. the polymers of natural origin modified or unmodified, alginates and carrageenans, glycoarninoglycai.es, deoxyribonucleic acid, mucopolysaccharides, in particular hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a synthetic layered silicate according to the invention implemented in combination with at least one hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof, including a salt thereof.

This embodiment is particularly illustrated in Example 6 of this application.

Hyaluronic acid is a linear sulfated glycosaminoglycan not composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

According to the invention, hyaluronic acid or a derivative thereof preferably has an average molecular weight of from 500 Da to 10 MDa, more particularly from 2 kDa to 2 MDa.

As hyaluronic acid suitable for the present invention, we may notably mention the hyaluromques animal acids, or obtained by biotechnology. They are linear or crosslinked, such as those sold under the name Hylaform® by Genzyme, or the hyaïuroniques genetic acids including those for uperficielles wrinkles, periorbital and perioral, such as those sold under the name Restylane Fine Lines ® by Q-Med Laboratory, or intended for deep wrinkles, depressions and labiomentonnières the oval of the face, such as those sold under the names Perlane and Restylane sub-Q® by Q-Med Laboratory.

Preferably, as hyaluronic suitable for the present invention acid, there may be mentioned those sold under the name Restylane by Q-Med Laboratory under the name Surgiderm® by the Laboratory Cornéal.

Can also be advantageously considered in the context of the invention sodium hyaluronate:

- molecular weight of between 20 and 50 kg / mol, marketed by Soliance under the name Renovyal Lo®,

- molecular weight of between 100 and 300 kg / mol, marketed by Soliance under the name Primalhyal 300®,

- molecular weight between 500 and 1200 kg / mol marketed by the company under the name Soliance Cristalhyal Lo®,

- molecular weight between 10 and 200 kg / mol, sold by the company Bioland under the name Bioha®,

- molecular weight of between 30 and 60 kg / mol sold by

Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Hyacare 50®,

- molecular weight of between 100 and 140 kg / mol, sold by the company under the name Contripro Hyactive 120®,

Among the salts of hyaluronic acid, there may be mentioned sodium salts, potassium salts, zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, as salts of hyaluronic acid, there may be mentioned potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate, preferably sodium hyaluronate.

According to another particular embodiment, a composition may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

A lipophilic gelling agent can be selected from particulate gelling agents, and in particular modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels; organopolysiloxane elastomers; semicrystalline polymers; hydrocarbon block copolymers; the dextrin esters; hydrogen bonding polymers; and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a lipophilic gelling agent is selected from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, block copolymers, hydrocarbon, the dextrin esters, hydrogen bonding polymers and mixtures thereof .

As representative particulate lipophilic gelling agents suitable for the invention may be especially mentioned, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica airgel.

a ) The clays may be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as ammonium chloride Cio to C22, for example the chloride, di-stéai the di-methyl ammonium.

They can be chosen from in particular bentonites hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, the sepiolites, biotite, attapulgites. vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably they are chosen from hectorites.

Preferably, tracks are used to lipophilic clays hectorites modified with an ammonium chloride Cio to C22, such as hectorite modified by chloride distearyl di-methyl ammonium such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V ® by the company Elementis or Bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone gel 1SD V ® (87% isododecane / disteardimonium hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by Elementis.

Of the lipophilic clay can in particular be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular of 0,50.1% to 10%, more preferably 0.2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

b) fumed silica is preferably subjected to a hydrophobic surface. The hydrophobic groups may be:

- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are named "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8 th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R.812 ® by Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ® by the company Cabot.

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (Sow edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972 ® and Aerosil R974 ® by Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-610 ® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 ® by the company Cabot.

c) Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

Aerogels used in the present invention are more particularly hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

"Hydrophobic silica" is any silica having its surface treated with siîylation agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxane, especially dimethylsiloxane such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, of so as to functionalize the OH groups by silyl groups n Si-, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Concerning the preparation of particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels surface modified by siîylation, reference may be made to US 7,470,725.

Will preferably be used particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels surface modified by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably having the INCI name Silica silylate.

By way of aerogels hydrophobic silica used in the invention include for example Paérogel marketed under the trademark VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a surface area per unit mass of from 600 to 800 m 2 / g.

Also exemplary aerogels marketed by the company Cabot Airgel TLD under the references 201, 201 Airgel EMT, Airgel 203 TLDs, ENOVA ® Airgel MT1 00 ENOVA Airgel MT 1200.

A. Representative title lipophilic polymeric gelling agents suitable for the invention may be especially mentioned,

a) hydrocarbon block copolymers of the invention, also called block copolymers, are preferably soluble or dispersible in the oily phase.

Such copolymers hydrocarbon blocks are described in US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5221534.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and of olefin.

in particular block copolymers are preferred comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

In particular, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an optionally hydrogenated copolymer comprising styrene blocks and ethylene blocks / C3-C4 alkylene.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dibîoc copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably selected from copolymers of styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene styrene copolymers -ethylene / butylene. Diblock polymers are sold under the name Kraton G1701E by Kraton Polymers.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one tribioc copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably selected from styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene butadiene-styrene copolymers of styrene-isoprene-styrene. copolymers of styrene-butadiene-styrene. Triblock polymers are sold under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® Dl 101, Kraton iU2 D1, D1 160 Kraton® by Kraton Polymers.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a tribioc styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, mention may in particular use a mixture of a copolymer tribioc styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene diblock copolymer and a styrene-ethylene / butylene, such as those sold under the name Kraton G1657M by Kraton Polymers.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of hydrogenated copolymer tribioc styrene-butylene / ethylene-styrene and hydrogenated star polymer ethylene-propylene-styrene, such mixing can in particular be in isododecane or in other oil. Such mixtures are sold, for example by Penreco under the trade names VERSAGEL® M5960 and M5670 VERSAGEL®.

(S) copolymer (s) hydrocarbon block (s) bit (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight and even more preferably 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

b) hydrogen-bonding polymers suitable for the invention may be especially polyamides and especially hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides.

According to a particular embodiment, the polyamide used is polyamide amide termination of formula (Ia):

X -+-C-R C— NH-R -NH -b-C— FL— C -X

L M i l 3 Jn I I I I

wherein X is - ~ (R 1 ) 2 wherein R is a linear alkyl or branched Cs to C22, which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a residue of dimer diacid C28 -C42. R3 is a radical ethylene diamine, is between 2 and 5;

and mixtures thereof.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may further comprise, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib):

X— -C— -C— NH - Rr- N „ G Rf C X

1 M I I n ! 1 ^ n

0 0 0

wherein X is -OR] wherein Ri is a linear alkyl or branched Cs to C22. preferably Ci & -C 2 2 s may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a residue of dimer diacid in C28-C42, R3 is a radical ethylene diamine, is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Umclear 80 and 100 Uniclear® Uniclear® or 80 V, 100 V and Uniclear® Uniclear® 100 VG, whose name. INCI is "éthylènedianiine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer."

Silicone polyamides may preferably be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

(II)

or

(IV)

in which :

• R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 , identical or different, represent a group chosen from:

- the hydrocarbon groups, linear, branched or cyclic Ci to C40 saturated or unsaturated, possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and may be substituted partly or totally by fluorine atoms,

- the aryl-C10, optionally substituted with one or more alkyl groups, C] to C 4 ,

- polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen,

• X, which are identical or different, represent an alkylene group di-yl, linear or branched Ci to C30, that can contain in its chain one or more oxygen atoms and / or nitrogen,

• Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, saturated or unsaturated, Ci to C50, that can contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and / or bearing as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C3-Cs alkyl, Ci to C 4 o aryl, C5-C 10, phenyl optionally substituted by 1 to 3 alkyl groups -C 3 hydroxyalkyl, Ci-C3 alkyl and amino Ci-Ce, or

Y represents a group of the formula:

in which

- T represents a hydrocarbon group trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C3-C24 optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and

- R 8 represents an alkyl group in Ci to C50 linear or branched, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which can be linked or not to a another polymer chain,

• n is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.

Examples of usable silicone polymer include a silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of US 5,981,680.

These include the compounds sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15) whose INCI name is "Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymer" that is, ie copolymers Nylon-61 1 / dimethicone. Polymers and / or silicone copolymers preferably have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state of from 45 ° C to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state of from 70 ° C to 130 ° C and preferably 80 ° C to 105 ° C.

c) "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" refers to an organopolysiloxane soft, deformable having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or of a flexible sphere. This is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer that is to say an organopolysiloxane elastomer containing

no hydrophilic chain, in particular containing no polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl unit.

In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention may be chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name ).

Organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and in JP-A-61-194009.

These include in particular the following compounds having the INCI name:

- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "USG-105" and "USG-107A" of Shin-Etsu; "DC9506" and "DC9701" by Dow Corning;

- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "SG-6" and "SG-16" by the company Shin Etsu;

- Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, tel que « KSG-1 5 » ;

- Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, tels que « DC9040 »,

"DC9045" and "DC5930" by Dow Corning;

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, tel que « DC9041 » de la société Dow Corning ;

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning EL-9240® silicone elastomer blend" of Dow Corning (polydimethylsiloxane mixture with crosslinked hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt));

- C 4 -24 Alkyl Dimethicone / DivinylDimethicone Crosspolymer as NuLastic Silk AM by the company Alzo;

- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" by the company Shin Etsu;

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, tel que « DC9041 » de la société Dow Corning ;

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning EL-9240 ® silicone elastomer blend" of Dow Corning (polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked by mixing hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)); and

- the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked by hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane (5cst) sold under the name DC 9041 by Dow Corning.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can also be used in powder form, the powders sold may be cited under the name "Dow Corning 9505 Powder", "Dow Corning 9506 Powder" by Dow Corning, these powders have to INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Patent 5,538,793, Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102 "," KSP-103 "," KSP-104 "," KSP-105 "by the company Shin Etsu, and have the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.

d) "semi-crystalline polymer" is meant within the meaning of the invention, polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion and having a reversible phase change temperature of the first order, in particular of melting (solid-transition liquid). The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the skeleton. Preferably, the semi -cristallins polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from:

- homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing chain (s) side e (s) hydrophobic (s) crystallizable (s),

- polymers bearing in the backbone at least . one crystallizable block,

- the polyester polycondensates and aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic,

- copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, and

- copolymers acrylate / silicone.

semi -cristallins the polymers used in the invention may be chosen in particular from:

- block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, whose monomers are described in EP 0951897,

- polycondensates, in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatiq e,

- copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis,

- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers or copolymers bearing in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in US 5,156,91 1, such as (C . o-C3O) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer ® from the company Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer ® polymers", Landec 1P22 (Rev. 4-97) and for example the product Intelimer ® IPA 13-1 from Landec, which is a molecular weight stearyl polyacrylate of about 145 000 and whose melting temperature is equal to 49 ° C,

- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular group (s) fluoropolymer (s), as described in WO 01/19333,

- acrylates / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate polydimethylsiloxane grafts, methacrylate copolymers stearyl 'polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate polydimethylsiloxane grafts , methyl methacrylate copolymers, butyl methacrylate, and 2-ethyl-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate polydimethylsiloxane grafts. These include in particular copolymers marketed by the company Shin-Etsu under the KP-561 names (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (CTFA name : acrylates / dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane)

and mixtures thereof.

The polymeric gelling agent can also be a dextrin ester. It is preferably at least one dextrin ester of fatty acid, preferably C 2 to C24, particularly C14 to Ci 8, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from myristyl dextrin or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, it may for example be selected from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL.RTM or R eopearl KL® Rheopearl® K or L2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling and Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises at least one additional ingredient being at least:

- a hydrophilic gelling agent selected from pyrogenic silicas, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or polymeric gelling agents of natural origin such as non-starch polysaccharides, native starches, modified starches, the starches grafted with an acrylic polymer, starches hydrolyzed grafted with an acrylic polymer, the starch-based polymers, gums and cellulose derivative, homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids, their salts or their esters, polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylates, copolymers of AMPS / polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylates of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, the polymers of chitin or chitosan anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic, cellulose polymer, separate from the alkylcellulose selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, the hydroxypropyl cellulose, rhydroxyrnéthylcellulose, réthylhydroxyéthylcellulose the carboxyméthylcelMo is, and quaternized derivatives of cellulose, vinyl polymers and anionic associative polymers, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, polymers of natural origin modified or unmodified, alginates and carrageenans, glycoaminoglycans, acids hyaluronic and their derivatives, deoxyribonucleic acid, mucopolysaccharides, and chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof; and or

- a lipophilic gelling agent selected from gelling particulate, elastomeric organopolysiloxane, the semi-crystalline polymers, block copolymers, hydrocarbon, the dextrin esters, hydrogen bonding polymers and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise 0.01% to

8% by weight of gelling agent (s), preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

hydrophobic film-forming polymers

A composition according to the invention may further comprise as an additional ingredient at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer.

Within the meaning of the present invention is meant by "hydrophobic polymer fllmogène", a film-forming polymer devoid of affinity for water and as such not suitable formulation in the solute state in an aqueous medium. In particular, hydrophobic polymer means a polymer having a solubility in 3 water at 25 ° C of less than 1% by weight.

Per polymer ".fllmogène" means a polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposition on a support, especially to the skin and / or nails, preferably a cohesive deposit, and more preferably a deposit whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that the deposit can be isolated and manipulated in isolation, for example when the deposit is produced by casting on a non-stick surface such as a teflon or silicone surface.

In particular, the hydrophobic fllmogène polymer is a polymer selected from the group comprising:

- film-forming polymers are soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular fat-soluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when it is incorporated into the medium; and

- dispersible film-forming polymers in an organic solvent medium, this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remains stable and / or compatible when incorporated in this medium. In particular, such polymers may be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone oils or hydrocarbon; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent; these non-aqueous dispersions are often called "NAD (non-aqueous dispersions)."

As a hydrophobic film-forming polymer. mention may in particular homopolymers and copolymers of compound ethylenically pattern, acrylic polymers and copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, silicone polymers such as polymers with a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polyisoprenes .

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight and even more preferential] ly from 5% to 20% by weight of polymer (s) forming (s ) hydrophobic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

As hydrophobic polymers fiimogènes most particularly suitable for the invention may especially be mentioned are fiimogènes lipodispersible polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles (NAD), ethylenic copolymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived carbosiloxane dendrimer , silicone acrylate and mixtures thereof, preferably the fiimogènes lipodispersible polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles (NAD).

1. Polymers fiimogènes lipodispersible form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, also known as "NAD"

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise, as a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one polymer selected from fiimogènes lipodispersible polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, also known as "NAD".

As non-aqueous dispersion of hydrophobic film-forming polymer, the particles dispersions may be used a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer, in a liquid oil phase, for example in the form of particles surface-stabilized dispersed in the liquid fatty phase .

The dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles may be manufactured as described in WO 04/055081.

2. block ethylenic copolymer

According to a first embodiment of P invention, the hydrophobic film forming polymer is a block ethylenic copolymer containing at least one first block having a glass transition temperature (T g ) greater than or equal to 40 ° C and being derived wholly or part of one or more first monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of at least 40 ° C, and at least one second block having a glass transition temperature equal or at 20 ° C and is totally or partially derived from one or more second monomers, which are such that Ehomopolymère prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of at least 20 ° C, said first sequence and said second sequence being interconnected by a statistical intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first s constituent monomers of the first block and at least one of said second constituent monomers of the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index greater than 2 1.

Polymers of this type suitable for the invention are described in EP 1,411,069.

Examples of such polymers, there may be mentioned

MEXOMERE PAS® (acrylic acid / isobutyl acrylate / isobornyl acrylate diluted 50% in isododecane) sold by the company Chimex.

3. The vinyl polymer comprises at least one unit derived , carbosiloxane dendrimer

According to a particular embodiment, a composition used according to the invention may comprise, as a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one vinyl polymer comprising at least one unit derived carbosiloxane dendrimer.

The vinyl polymer used according to the invention in particular has a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a unit derived carbosiloxane dendrimer having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.

In particular, vinyl polymers may be used comprising at least one dendrimer carbosiloxane pattern as described in applications WO03 / 045 337 and EP 963 751 from Dow Corning.

The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention shows a molecular structure having branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having a high regularity in the radial direction starting from the connection to backbone. Such structures are described carbosiloxane dendrimer in the form of a siloxane-siîylalkylène highly branched copolymer in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open okai 9-171 154.

A vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived carbosiloxane dendrimer has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and can be derived from the polymerization:

(A) from 0 to 99.9 parts by weight of a vinyl monomer; and

(B) 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of a carbosiloxane dendrimer containing a polymerizable organic group by means of radicals represented by the general formula:

wherein Y is a polymerizable organic group with radicals, R 1 represents an aryl group or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and X 1 represents a group silylalk the which when i = 1, is represented by the formula:

wherein R 1 is as defined above, R 2 represents an alkylene group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, R 3 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, X ' + i represents a hydrogen atom hydrogen, an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, an aryl group, or the silylalkyl group defined above with i = i + 1; i is an integer from 1 to 10 which represents the generation of said silylalkyl group, and 1 is an integer from 0 to 3;

wherein said polymerizable organic group with radicals contained in component (A) is selected from:

- organic groups containing a methacrylic group or an acrylic group and are represented by the formulas:

and

wherein R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, R 5 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms; and

- organic groups containing a styryl group which are represented by the formula:

wherein R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group. R 7 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, R represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, b is an integer from 0 to 4, and c is 0 or 1, so that if c is 0, - (R s ) c- represents a bond.

The vinyl type monomer which is the component (A) in the third vinyl polymer is a vinyl type monomer containing a polymerizable vinyl group using radicals.

There is no particular limitation regarding such a monomer.

The following are examples of the vinyl type monomer: methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl, isopropyl methacrylate, or a methacrylate analogue lower lkyle; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl, cyclohexyl methacrylate acrylate, 2 -éthyIhexyle methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate, or a similar higher methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, or a vinyl ester of lower fatty acid analogue; vinyl caproate, vinyl 2-ethylhexoate, vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate, or a similar ester of higher fatty acid; styrene, vinyltoluene, benzyl methacrylate, phenoxyethyl methacrylate, vinylpyrrolidone, or like aromatic vinyl monomers; methacrylamide, N-methylolmethacrylamide, N-methoxymethylmethacrylamide, Pisobutoxyméthoxyméthacrylamide, N, Ndiméthylméthacrylamide, or monomers

vinyl type analogs containing amide groups; methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate hydroxypropyl alcohol, or the like vinyl type monomers which contain hydroxyl groups; acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, or the like vinyl type monomers containing a carboxylic acid group; tétrahydrofurforyle methacrylate, butoxyethyl methacrylate, the methacrylate éthoxydiéthylèneglycol the polyéthylèneglycolméthacrylate the polypropylèneglycolmonométhacrylate, ether, hydroxybutyl vinyl ether, cetyl vinyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl vinyl, or the like vinyl type monomer with ether bonds; the méthacryîoxypropyltriméthoxysilane, polydimethylsiloxane having a methacrylic group on one of its molecular terminals, polydimethylsiloxane having a styryl group on one of its molecular terminals, or a silicone-like compound having unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; the dibutylfumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; ether, methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or fumaric acid ; an unsaturated monomer polymérisabîe using radicals having a sulfonic acid group such as styrene sulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid such as chloride of 2-hydroxy-3-methacryloxypropyltrimethylammonium; and an ester of methacrylic acid with an alcohol having a tertiary amino group such as an ester of methacrylic acid and diethylamine.

Multifunctional vinyl monomers may also be used. The following are examples of such compounds: trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, pentaerythritol trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, the polyéthyîèneglycoldiméthacrylate dimethacrylate, 4-butanediol dimethacrylate, 1, 6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, néopentylgîycol the triméthylolpropanetrioxyéthylméthacrylate dimethacrylate, tris- (2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate, trimethylolpropane tris- (2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanurate, polydimethylsiloxane capped styryl groups possessing divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or silicone analogous compounds having unsaturated groups.

To facilitate the preparation of mixture of the raw material of cosmetics, the average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer which contains a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be selected in the range between 3000 g / mol and 2 000 000 g / mol, preferably between 5000 g / mol and 800 000 g / mol. It can be a liquid, gum, paste, solid, powder, or any other shape. Preferred forms are solutions formed by dilution in solvents such as a silicone oil or an organic oil, a dispersion, or a powder.

A vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or the solution may have a concentration in a range between 0.1 and 95% by weight, preferably between 5 and 70% by weight. However, to facilitate handling and preparation of the mixture, the range should preferably be between 10 and 60% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer suitable for the invention can be one of the polymers described in Examples of EP 0,963,751.

According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer can be derived from the polymerization:

(A) 0.1 to 99 parts by weight of one or more monomer (s) acrylate or methacrylate; and

(B) 100 to 0.1 parts by weight of an acrylate or methacrylate monomer of a carbosiloxane dendrimer tri [tri (trimethylsiloxy) silyléthyl dimethylsiloxy] silylpropyl.

According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived carbosiloxane dendrimer may comprise a unit derived carbosiloxane dendrimer tri [tri (trimethylsiloxy) silyIéthyl diméthyïsiloxyjsilylpropyle having one of the formulas

In a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer having at least one unit derived carbosiloxane dendrimer used in the invention comprises at least one monomer butyl acrylate.

According to one embodiment, a vinyl polymer may further comprise at least one fluorinated organic group. A fluorinated vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in Examples of WO 03/045337.

According to a preferred embodiment, a vinyl polymer grafted to the meaning of the present invention may be conveyed in an oil or an oil mixture (s), preferably volatile (s) in particular, selected (s) from oils of silicone and hydrocarbon oils . mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, a siîicone oil suitable for the invention can be cyclopentasiloxane or cyclohexasiloxane.

According to another particular embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention can be isododecane.

Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one unit derived carbosiloxane dendrimer can particularly be suitable for the present invention are the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100, 4-101 TIB, TIB 4-120, 4-130 TIB, TIB 4- 200, FA 4002 ID (4-202 TIB) TIB 4-220, FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by Dow Corning. Preferably, the polymers sold under the names will be used FA 4002 ID (TIB 4-202), and FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by the company Dow Corning

Preferably, the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one unit derived carbosiloxane dendrimer for use in a composition of the invention is an acrylate / polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate, in particular that marketed risododécane under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID silicone acrylate Dow Corning.

4. Copolymers silicone acrylate

According to a particular embodiment, a composition used according to the invention may comprise, as a hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.

By "copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups" means in the present application, a copolymer obtained from

of (a) one or more carboxylic monomers (acid or ester), and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane chains (PDMS).

Is meant in the present application as "carboxylic acid monomer" both carboxylic acid monomers as monomers of carboxylic acid ester. Thus, the monomer (a) can be chosen for example from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid. itaconic acid, crotonic acid, esters thereof and mixtures of these monomers. As esters there may be mentioned the following monomers: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconoate and / or crotonoate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers in the form of esters are more particularly chosen from acrylates and methacrylates, linear or branched alkyl preferably Ci-C24 and better still C 1 -C 22, the alkyl radical being preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, étbyl 2-ethylhexyl, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, in a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups at least one group selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylates or methacrylates of methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl, 2-ethyl-hexyl, and mixtures thereof.

In the present application is meant "polydimethylsiloxanes" (also called organopolysiloxanes or abbreviated as PDMS), in accordance with generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane≡Si-0-Si = bond), comprising trimethyl radicals directly bonded via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The PDMS channels can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one end of the chain, that is to say, the PDMS may be for example, a radical polymerizable group on both ends of the chain or have a polymerizable radical group on one end of the chain and a trimethylsilyl end group on the other end of the chain. The radical polymerizable group may be in particular an acrylic or methacrylic group, in particular a group CH2 = CRi - CO - O - R 2 . where Ri represents hydrogen or methyl, and R 2 represents -CH2-, - (CH 2 ) n with n - 3, 5, 8 or 10,

-CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -CH2-, -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-, -CH 2 -CH.-0-CH2-C¾-CH (CH 3 ) -CH 2 > -CH2- CH2-O-CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-CH2.

The copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization of (A) a PDMS having at least one polymerizable radical group (e.g., on one of the chain ends or both) and (B) at least one carboxylic monomer, as described for example in US-a-5.061, 481 and US-a-5,219,560.

Copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight of from about 3000 g / mol to 200 000 g / mol and preferably from about 5000 g / mol to 100 000 g / mol.

The copolymer used in the composition of the invention may be present as such or as dispersed in a solvent such as lower alcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as isopropyl alcohol, or oils such as oils of siiicone volatile (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane).

Copolymers as used in the composition of the invention include for example copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate polydimethylsiloxane grafts, methacrylate copolymers stearyl polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate polydimethylsiloxane grafts, methyl methacrylate copolymers, butyl methacrylate, and 2-ethyl-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate polydimethylsiloxane grafts. in particular there may be mentioned as the copolymer used in the composition of the invention, the copolymers sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 wherein the copolymer is dispersed at 60 % by weight in isopropyl alcohol (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 wherein the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, preferably the P561; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent, but is in waxy form, its melting point being about 30 ° C.

One can also cite the graft copolymer of polyacrylic and dissolved in dimethyl i'isododécane marketed by Shin Etsu under the name KP-550.

Ingredients selected from cosmetic active ingredients, fragrances and colorants

According to one embodiment, the additional ingredient included in a composition according to the invention is at least one compound chosen from cosmetic active agents; vitamins; anti-UV filters; colorants, preferably chosen from pigments and nacres; the perfumes ; and mixtures thereof.

cosmetic active

A cosmetic active ingredient according to the present invention may be chosen especially from moisturizing agents (also known as humectant), UV filters, healing agents, whitening or depigmenting agents, anti -transpirants agents and / or anti -age agents. Can also be considered as cosmetic active anionic surfactant certain assets used in cleaning products for skin and / or nails, including facial skin and / or body.

As moisturizing agents, there may be mentioned polyols; ceramides; DHEA and its derivatives; Coenzyme Q10; and hyaluronic acid and its derivatives.

Examples of cicatrizing agents, mention may be made allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine and serine.

Examples of antiperspirants include the astringent salts such as aluminum salts and / or zirconium salts.

Examples of anti-aging agents, mention may be made keratolytic or desquamating agents, such as α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, α-keto acids, β-keto acids, retinoids and esters thereof, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives.

As ionic surfactants suitable as cosmetic active agents that may especially. include anionic surfactants selected from alkyl sulphates; alkyl ether sulfates; acylglutamates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl lactylates; alkyl ether carboxylates; isethionates such as cocoyl isethionates and / or. lauroyl -iséthi sulfonates.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention contains at least as a separate ingredient in the synthetic phyllosilicate, acid

hyaluronic crosslinked and / or uncrosslinked, a derivative thereof. By derivative of hyaluronic acid, preferably means one of its salts, especially its sodium salt. Preferably ^ it is the sodium hyaluronate (NaHA).

A composition of the invention may thus advantageously comprise from 0.1% to 10% by weight of hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a compositio according to the invention may comprise from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, or more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from from 0.01% to 5% by weight, by weight of active (s) cosmetic (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

Parfums

A composition according to the invention may also comprise a particular form of an essential oil or a blend of essential oils.

dyestuffs

The compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise at least one dyestuff.

This (or these) material (s) colorant (s) is (are) preferably chosen from pulverulent dyestuffs, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff. Pulverulent coloring materials can be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments.

The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among inorganic pigments, metal oxides, particularly titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, and iron oxides, titanium, or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, carbon black include, type of the D & C pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.

The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or the chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The liposoiubles dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 1 1 D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5 , quinoline yellow and annatto.

Preferably, the pigments in the compositions according to the invention are selected from metal oxides.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 3 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the (the) colorant material (s) is (are) chosen (s) from one or more oxide (s) metal (s) present (s) at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight with respect to total weight of the composition, advantageously comprised inclusively between 3 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

vitamins

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one vitamin chosen, for example vitamins A, B3, PP, B5, E, Kl and / or C and the derivatives of these vitamins and in particular esters and mixtures thereof.

conservatives

By "conservative" is meant a natural or synthetic substance incorporated in a composition, particularly a cosmetic, in order to avoid alterations of a chemical nature (oxidation) or microbiological.

The preservatives according to the invention may be selected from antimicrobial preservatives, antioxidants, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. The choice of these compounds clearly within the competence of the skilled person.

Of course, all the above agents or additional compounds are different phyllo silicates according to the invention.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium

As discussed above, a composition according to the invention may advantageously be cosmetic or dermatological composition,

In this particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is intended for topical application to the skin and / or nails, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the skin and / or nails.

Thus, the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or appearance, and which does not cause stinging, redness or unacceptable tightness for one user.

Preferably, a composition of the ' invention is a cosmetic composition.

In view of the above, a composition according to the invention is intended for topical use, that is to say, by applying the surface of the skin and / or nails.

Thus, a composition according to the invention can be in the form of skin care products or semi -muqueuses such as protective composition, treatment or care of the face, lips, hands, for nails or false nails, feet, for anatomical folds or the body (for example day creams, night cream, cleansing cream, makeup base, sunscreen composition, body milk for protecting or care, after-sun lotion, lotion, gel or foam for skin care, serum, mask, artificial tanning composition, aftershave composition, produced for the hygiene and cleaning of the skin and / or nails.

The composition according to the invention can be in any pharmaceutical form normally used in cosmetics and dermatology logic.

It can be especially in the form of an aqueous solution, hydro-alcoholic, optionally gelled, a dispersion of optionally bi or three-phase lotion type, an emulsion oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, of an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oil in an aqueous phase. It can also be solid or pasty consistency.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may also advantageously be in a so-called gel-type formulation gel, that is to say represented by a composition comprising:

- at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and

- at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent, the two phases are forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

Such embodiment is in particular illustrated in example 4 below. According to this particular embodiment, the aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel of synthetic yllosilicate p can be used as the hydrophilic gelling agent. Indeed, because of its specific properties, a synthetic phyllosilicate or aqueous alcoholic gel according to the invention can act as load and / or hydrophilic gelling agent in a composition according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention is in the form of a cleansing composition for the skin and / or nails, especially the skin of the body or face, especially the face.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a care composition for the skin and / or nails, especially the skin of the body or face, especially the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and / or nails, especially the skin of the body or face, especially the face.

Thus, in a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup.

A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin, body or face, including the face. It may well be an eyeshadow or blush.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can be in the form of a care and / or makeup of the skin and / or nails, body or face, particularly the face, and is preferably a foundation, a blusher or an eyeshadow.

In yet another mode in this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product dedicated to the care and / or making up the lips and is preferably a stick, such as a red lipstick, a varnish or a gloss. T synthetic phyllosilicate in the form of an aqueous gel according to the invention has the advantage of leading to the formulation sticks emulsions used in the field of skin care and make-up.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product dedicated to caring for and / or making up the nails or false nails, and is preferably a varnish.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of the skilled person.

METHODS AND USES

In all cases, a composition of the invention may be prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art. Of course, the method for preparing compositions according to the invention depends on the type of desired formulation.

Synthetic phyllosilicates according to the invention being implemented in the form of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, their inclusion is therefore preferred in the aqueous phase.

As indicated above, the present invention relates to a process for making up and / or care of skin and / or nails comprising a step of applying on said skin and / or said nails of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium at least one aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel synthetic phyllosilicate formula Mg3Si 4 0] o (OH) 2 according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, the implementation composition is as described above.

Advantageously, this method can be dedicated to provide a mattifying makeup result and / or homogeneous complexion of the skin after application.

This method can also be dedicated to facilitate the spreading on the skin of the composition and to result in a homogeneous deposit of assets on the skin after application. These assets may be chosen from cosmetic active; vitamins; anti-UV filters; colorants, preferably chosen from pigments and nacres; the perfumes ; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a method or a use as described above can implement a composition according to the invention as described above.

Throughout the specification, including the claims. expression

"Comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The terms "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive, unless otherwise specified.

The examples and figures which follow are presented for illustrative and not restrictive of the invention.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of a synthetic phyUosûicate form of an aqueous gel suitable for the invention

An aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosiiicate according to the invention is prepared according to the technology described in Example 1 of patent application FR 2977580 from page 21, line 26 to page 22, line 29. It has been made up to the formation of the hydrogel without a step of drying and lyophilization.

It is this aqueous gel which is used in all examples below.

Analysis of the X-ray diffraction was conducted using the equipment and method used for analysis in X-ray diffraction, as detailed in patent application FR 2,977,580.

A characteristic diffraction line at 9.77 Å is observed.

Example 2: Load Nature Influence on the matting effect and homogenizing after application of a cosmetic composition type fi.e direct emulsion, oil-in-water)

2.1. compositions tested

Phyllosiiicate the form of an aqueous gel was introduced into the aqueous phase of an oil-in-water emulsion as defined hereinafter.

The materials of the Al phase are first weighed and then put Moritz stirring without heating. A2 phase is then added and the mixture is stirred until a homogeneous mixture.

It then adds the phases A3, A4 and A5.

Phase B is brought to melt at 68 "C and then is added to the mixture A.

The resulting mixture was emulsified with vigorous stirring for 10 minutes.

We. finally allowed to cool to 30 ° C and then phases C and D are added.

Tare is finally done with water.

The following compositions have been prepared.

The percentages in the table are weight percentages of the total weight of the corresponding composition.

Mix of

pol ydiméthy lsil oxane

KSG 16®

crosslinked and 7.00% 7.00% 7.00%

(Shin Etsu)

pol and di methy lsiloxane

(6 CST) (24/76)

Luzenac ®

C natural Talc 0.00% 0.00% 0.20%

Pharma M

Ethyl alcohol

D 5.00% 5.00% 5.00% absolute denatured

TOTAL 100 100 100

MA: Active Material

2.2. Evaluation of the viscosity of the compositions 1-3

Protocol for measuring the viscosity:

procedure

1, Thermostatisation

A viscosity is significant at a given temperature.

The measurement is performed with a set: analyte - bucket - measuring body. It is this set to be the set temperature T ° C +/- 0.5 ° C (typically 25 ° C).

2. Zero adjustment

This will be done prior to each use, as described in the procedure of the apparatus used which is here a Rheomat 100.

3. Bucket fill

Carefully fill the bucket, avoid any disintegration of the product during its introduction into the bucket.

The volume of substance to be introduced into each bucket is as follows:

Bucket mobile 1: 320 mL measured;

Bucket mobile 2 to the waypoint is 60 ml;

Bucket mobile 3, 4 and 5 until overflow is 25 ml.

4. Measurement

Placed on the apparatus (HEOMAT 100) the system carrier and the measuring body selected then adapt the measuring cup and put the appliance.

Read the viscosity after 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body, the given value being UD and requires the use of an abacus for transposition in poise.

Results:

There is an increase in the viscosity of the composition comprising two aqueous gel synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention, which is not the case for the three comparative composition comprising natural talc.

Accordingly, in contrast to the aqueous gel according to the invention synthetic phyllosilicate, talc does not impact the viscosity of a direct-type emulsion composition comprising the same. In contrast, an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention comprises a pin-type direct emulsion composition of thickener.

2.3. Visual assessment of power homogenizing after application of the compositions 1-3

The compositions 1 to 3 are applied to an evaluation device in accordance with those described in WO2014170807 request.

This device comprises an application surface containing different areas with their surface state, which reflects preferably different grades skins typologies, such as increasing age of hides, skins having a pore size of growing, skins having an increasing number of skin defects and / or skin with wrinkles increasingly marked and / or growing.

Each of the compositions 1 to 3 is applied to the finger at a rate of 2mg / cm 2 , on the dedicated application surface for receiving the sample to be evaluated.

The result was then assessed qualitatively in terms of homogenization after application.

The deposits obtained after application of these compositions have been observed with the naked eye and scanning electron microscope (SEM) (4 or 5 KV with a magnification xlOO), allowing to have a global vision.

The results are shown in the table below.

2.4. Conclusion

It is observed that the composition 2 according to the invention, comprising an aqueous alcoholic gel or hydro phylio synthetic silicate according to the invention is significantly more uniform after applying a composition comprising natural talc, in the image of the composition 3 comparative.

More particularly, the composition 1 has a control and porous deposit heavily cracked with a marking terrain.

Composition 3 comparative (ie containing natural talc) also has a porous and cracked deposit with an accentuation of the marking terrain.

On the contrary, the composition 2 according to the invention (ie comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyilosilicate according to the invention) has a. deposit significantly less cracked and the relief is greatly smoothed.

2.5. Evaluation of the effect of correcting skin imperfections (soft-focus) compositions 1-3

2.5.1. operating Conditions

The optical properties of the tested compositions are characterized by means of a measuring Blur or Haze (sail effect or layer) with a type of commercial device "Hazemeter." The Haze is the transmitted diffused light / total transmitted light. The results are expressed in percentages. Plus the value of haze, the more the soft focus effect (fuzziness index) is high.

The measurements are performed according to the following protocol:

a- spread on a plastic transparent film (Byk), crumb layer 25.4 μηι wet thickness of the composition which is desired to evaluate the blur using an automatic spreader.

b- let dry for 1 hour at room temperature.

c- measuring the haze index (or haze) using a BYK GARDNER HAZE GARD mark.

2.5,2. Results

2.6. Evaluation of the matte effect of the compositions 3

Measurement Protocol dullness of a composition

The gloss of a deposit resulting from the application of a composition can be commonly measured by various methods such as that using a Glossmeter Byk Micro TRI gloss 20 ° / 60 ° / 85 °.

Measurement principle using this Glossmeter

The apparatus illuminates the sample to be analyzed according to a certain incidence and measures the intensity of the specular reflection.

The intensity of the reflected light depend on the material and the angle of illumination. For non-ferrous materials (paints, plastics), the intensity of reflected light increases with the angle of illumination. The rest of the incident light penetrates into the material and according to the color tone, it is either absorbed in part is released.

The results of measurement of the reflectometer are not based on the amount of incident light but on a black glass standard and polished defined refractive index.

The measurement is normalized to an internal standard and reduced to a value to 100: For this standard standard, the measured value is set at 100 gloss units (calibration).

More the measured value is close to 100 plus the sample is polished. The unit of measure is the gloss unit (UB).

The angle of illumination used greatly influences the value of the reflectometer. To differentiate very glossy and matt surfaces, standardization has defined 3 geometries, or 3 areas of measurement.

Test Protocol

a- onto a Leneta brand contrast card of reference Form 1A Penopac, spread a layer of 30 μηι wet thickness of the composition, the mean gloss is desired to evaluate, using an automatic spreader. The layer covering the white and black background of the card.

b- Let dry for 24 hours at 37 ° C.

c- Measure gloss at 20 °, 60 ° and 85 ° to the absorbent matt white background (3 steps) by means of a trademark BYK-Gardner glossmeter and microTri-GLOSS reference.

It is then necessary to compare the values ​​measured in UB obtained for the different compositions tested. The higher the measured value, the lower the deposition is matt.

Results

Composition 2 according to the invention (ie comprising an aqueous gel of phyllo synthetic silicate according to the invention) has a measured result in UB significantly lower than that obtained for the other compositions, and is therefore the composition leading to the more matte deposit .

2. 7. Conclusions

An aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention advantageously allows to confer to a cosmetic composition type direct emulsion comprising the higher viscosity, better homogenization properties after application, and a matting effect, in particular compared with a composition comprising as filler natural talc.

In addition, the presence of a synthetic layered silicate improves the remedial effect of the skin imperfections of a typical direct emulsion composition comprising the same.

EXAMPLE 3: Load Nature Influence on the matting effect and homogenizing after application of a cosmetic composition of water-in-oil inverse emulsion

3.1. compositions tested

The materials of Phase A are first weighed and then placed under agitation at 68 ° C. Moritz. The pigments are then ground in the oil phase B and then added to phase A.

Phase C is then added and the resulting mixture was stirred usqu j 'homogenization.

The materials of the phase D are then weighed, mixed and allowed to homogenize under stirring using a magnetic bar. Phase D is then introduced into phase A, before emulsifying the mixture under vigorous agitation pendant 10 minutes.

finally allowed to cool to 30 ° C and then phase E is introduced.

The water is then made tare.

The following compositions were then prepared.

The percentages in the table are weight percentages of the total weight of the corresponding composition.

Acrylates /

polytrimét y 1 siloxyméthacry late

(DOW CORNING FA 4002 ID 10,0 % 10,0 % 10,0 %

ACRYLATE® SILICONE

Dow Corning)

Pigments NAI

12,0 % 12,0 % 12,0 %

(SUNPURO)

B

Cyclohexasiloxane 7,50 % 7,50 % 7,50 %

Silica 1, the 00%, 00%, or 1.00%

C Nylon-12 3.00% 3.00% 3.00%

Perlite 0,20 % 0,20 % 0,20 %

Water 34.80% 16.80% 33.33%

synthetic sheet silicate gel

18.00% (or

according to the invention (8.20% ai) 0.00% 0.00%

1,47% MA *)

in water

D

Butylene glycol 6.00% 6.00% 6.00%

magnesium sulfate 0.70% 0.70% 0.70%

natural talc

0,00 % 0,00 % 1,47 %

(LUZENAC PHARMA M)

E Denatured Alcohol 8% 8% 8%

TOTAL 100 100 100

* MA: Active Material

3.2. Evaluation of the viscosity of the compositions 4-6

measuring the viscosity protocol is identical to that detailed in Example 2 above.

Results:

Composition 4 Composition 5 Composition 6 (Control) (Invention) (Comparative)

Viscosity (25 ° C) 9 9 poises poises 12 poises

3.3. Visual assessment of the homogenizing power of the compositions 4-6

Compositions 4-6 were tested in accordance with what is stated in Example 2 above.

The results are shown in Table below.

3.4. Evaluation of the matte effect of the compositions 4-6

The protocol for measuring the mattness is identical to that described in Example 2 above (see item 2.6).

Results

5 The composition according to the invention (ie comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) has a measured result in UB lower than that obtained for other compositions, and is therefore the composition leading to the more matte deposit.

3.5. Conclusions

There was a slight increase in viscosity of the composition 5 according to the invention (ie comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention), which is not the case for the comparative composition 6 comprising natural talc.

In other words, unlike an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention, natural talc n not impact the viscosity of a typical inverse emulsion composition comprising the same. In contrast, an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention behaves in a very good thickening type reverse emulsion composition.

In addition, the 5 containing the aqueous gel composition of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is significantly more uniform after application compare composition 6 comprising natural talc.

Finally, the presence of an aqueous synthetic phyllosilicate gel according to the invention allows to enhance the matting of the type of inverse emulsion composition comprising it and holding this mattifying effect in time.

Example 4: Charge Nature Influence on the matting effect and homogenizing after application of a cosmetic composition gel-gel

4.1. compositions tested

All raw materials are weighed in a beaker and then placed with vigorous stirring in rayneri until the mixture becomes homogeneous.

Compositions 7 to 8 following were then prepared.

The percentages in the table are weight percentages of the total weight of the corresponding composition.

Composition 8

Raw materials Composition 7 Composition 9

(According

(Part numbers) (Witness) (for comparison) the invention)

deionized water

microbiologiquement 51 ,54 % 33,54 % 49,54 %

clean

Glycerin 5.28% 5.28% 5.28%

Acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate

sodium /

hydroxyéthylacryïate under 2.4% 2.4% 3.17%

powder

(SEPINOV EMT 10® de

SEPPIC)

2-phenoxyethanol 0.78% 0.78% 0.78%

Gel de phyllosiïicate

Synthetic according 18.00% (or

0,00 % 0,00 %

the invention 1 1.0% in 2.00% MA *)

water

natural talc

0,00 % 0,00 % 2,00 %

(LUZENAC PHARMA M)

polydimethylsiloxane

(Viscosity: 5 CST)

(XIAMETER PMX-200 8,00 % 8,00 % 8,00 %

SILICONE FLUID 5CS®

of DOW CORNING)

Mix of

polydimethylsiloxane

crosslinked hexadiene /

polydimethylsiloxane 5cst

14,0 % 14,0 % 14,0 %

(Dow Corning 9041

SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND® de DOW

CORNING)

Pigments NAI

18,0 % 18,0 % 18,0 %

(SUNPUR.O)

TOTAL 100 100 100

MA: Active Material

4.2. Evaluation of the viscosity of the compositions 7-9

measuring the viscosity protocol is identical to that detailed in Example 2 above.

Results:

4.3. Evaluation of the effect mati relying compositions 7-9

The protocol for measuring the mattness is identical to that described in Example 2 above.

Results

The composition 8 according to the invention (ie comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according Γ invention) has a measured result in UB lower than that obtained for other compositions, and is therefore the composition leading to the more matte deposit.

4.4. Conclusions

There was a significant increase in the viscosity of the composition 8 of the invention (ie comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention), which is not the case for the comparative composition 9 comprising natural talc.

In other words, unlike an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention, talc does not impact the viscosity of a gel-gel composition comprising the same. In contrast, an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention behaves in a very good thickening a composition gel-gel type.

In addition, the presence of an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention allows to enhance the matting of a gel-gel composition comprising it and holding this matting effect over time.

EXAMPLE 5 Influence phyHosilicate gel as gelling agent and matting agent of a cosmetic composition for caring

The percentages in the table are weight percentages of the total weight of the corresponding composition.

5.1. compositions tested

Composition

Composition Composition

Type 1 1

INCI names October 12

Cosmetics (According

(Control) (Comparative) the invention)

behenyl alcohol (and) glyceryl

stearate (and) disodium ethylene

PEG-15 disulfate dicocamide 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% (and) Glyceryl stearate citrate

(CERULATION H® Sasol)

Isostéaryl néopentanoate

(DUB VC1 18® STEARINERIE 2,50 % 2,50 % 2,50 %

PHASE DUBOIS)

GRASSE

Isohexadécane

8,00 % 8,00 %

(Isohexadécane® INEOS) 8,00 %

Hexyldécyle Laurate (et)

Hexyldécanole

4.00% 4.00% 4.00% (PGL CETIOL

COGNIS® (BASF))

Polyalkylacryîate en Cio-Cso

(INTELIMER IPA 13-1 ® NG

0,50 % 0,50 % 0,50 % POLYMERAIR PRODUCTS AND CHEMICALS)

synthetic phyHosilicate gel 36% MP

according to the invention 0.00% (3.7% 0.00%

PHASE (10.3% ai in water) ma)

WATER

Eau QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100

Glycerin 7.00% 7.00% 7.00%

QS QS QS Conservative

Ammonium

Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

0,00 %

(HOSTACER1N AMPS® 0,00 % 0,50 %

CLARIANT)

Xanthan Gum

(Rhodicare XC® 0.20% 0.20% 0.20% Rhodia (Solvay))

5.2, evaluation of the viscosity of the compositions 10-12

measuring the viscosity protocol is identical to that detailed in Example 2 below -Dessus.

Results:

5.3. Evaluation of the matte effect of the compositions 10-12

The protocol for measuring the matiié is identical to that described in Example 2 above.

Results

Π the composition according to the invention (ie comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) has a measured result in UB very significantly lower than that obtained for the other compositions, and is therefore the composition leading to the more deposit mast.

5.4. Conclusions

There was a significant increase in the viscosity of the composition 11 of the invention (ie comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according

the invention), which is not the case for the comparative composition 12 comprising, in place of the gel according to the invention, a non-compliant gelling the invention.

In addition, the presence of an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention allows very significantly enhance the matting and holding this matiiîant effect over time of a composition comprising, as compared to a composition free of such a gel.

EXAMPLE 6: Load the nature of influence on the spreading of an aqueous cosmetic composition properties

The percentages in the table are weight percentages of the total weight of the corresponding composition.

6.1 Compositions tested

6.2. Example of inventio compared to 14 against-example:

Natural talc is not dispersed in the aqueous solution of the composition 14 and remains on the surface. Synthetic phyllosilicate gel according to the invention on the contrary pemiet obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous gel.

6.3. Homogeneity of the deposit after application

The reference pearl "PEARL COLORONA KARAT GOLD MP-24" is used as a tracer to visually check the homogeneity of the deposit after application.

For example, 2 grams of this nacre are added to 100 grams of the composition 13 according to the invention and comparative composition 15.

It appears that the deposit obtained after application of the composition 13 according to the invention is visually more homogeneous over the skin unlike the deposit obtained with the comparative composition 15 not including the synthetic phyllosilicate gel according to the invention.

4.6 Matite

The protocol for measuring the mattness is identical to that described in Example 2 above.

The composition 13 of the invention (ie comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) has a measured result in UB very significantly lower than that obtained for the other compositions, and is therefore the composition leading to the more matte deposit .

REVENDICATIONS

1. Utilisation d'un gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de phyllosilicate synthétique de formule Mg3Si40io(OH)2 dans une composition cosmétique.

2. Utilisation selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle le gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de phyllosilicate synthétique est mis en œuvre à titre d'agent viscosant.

3. Utilisation selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle le gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de phyllosilicate synthétique est mis en œuvre à titre d'agent matifiant.

4. Utilisation selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle le gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de phyllosilicate synthétique est mis en œuvre à titre d'agent homogénéisant d'application.

5. Utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, dans laquelle le phyllosilicate synthétique de formule Mg3SÎ40io(OH)2 présente une raie de diffraction des rayons X supérieure à 9.4 Â et inférieure ou égale à 9,8 Â.

6. Composition, notamment cosmétique, comprenant au moins un gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de phyllosilicate synthétique de formule Mg3Si40io(OH)2 et au moins un ingrédient additionnel, distinct dudit gel de phyllosilicate synthétique, choisi parmi les corps gras siliconés tels que les huiles, les gommes et les cires de silicone; les corps gras non siliconés tels que les huiles, les pâteux et les cires d'origine végétale, minérale, animale et/ou synthétique; les acides gras ayant de 8 à 32 atomes de carbone; les esters et les éthers de synthèse; les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique; les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone; les alcools en C2-C6; les glycols; les tensioactifs ; les gélifiants aqueux ou huileux ; les actifs cosmétiques ; les parfums ; ies charges ; les matières colorantes ; les vitamines ; les conservateurs ; les polymères iïlmogènes ; et leurs mélanges.

7. Composition selon la revendication 6, dans laquelle le phyllosilicate synthétique de formule Mg3Si4()io(OH)2 présente une raie de diffraction des rayons X supérieure à 9,4 À et inférieure ou égale à 9,8 Â.

8. Composition selon la revendication 6 ou 7, caractérisée en ce qu'elle présente une bande d'absorption infrarouge à 7200 cm'1, correspondant à la vibration d'élongation attribuée aux groupes silanols Si-OH en bordure des feuillets du phyllosilicate.

9. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 8, caractérisée par une absence de bande d'absorption à 7 156 cm"1.

10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 9, caractérisée en ce que le gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de phyllosilicate synthétique constitue la phase aqueuse.

11. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 10, caractérisée en ce que le gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de phyllosilicate synthétique est présent dans la composition en une teneur allant de 0,01 % à 40 % en poids en matière active, en particulier allant de 0,05 % à 30 % en poids en matière active, de préférence allant de 0,1 % à 20 % en poids en matière active, et plus préférentiellement de 0,2 % à 10 % en poids en matière active, par rapport au poids total de la composition.

12. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 1 1, ledit ingrédient additionnel étant au moins un composé constitutif d'une phase aqueuse, de préférence choisi parmi les monoalcools inférieurs ayant de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone et les polyols, notamment les polyols présentant de 2 à 32 atomes de carbone.

13. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 12, ledit ingrédient additionnel étant au moins un composé constitutif d'une phase grasse, et en particulier choisi parmi une huile hydrocarbonée ou siliconée, polaire ou apolaire, volatile ou non volatile, une cire, un composé pâteux, et un de leurs mélanges.

14. Composition selon la revendication 13. ladite huile étant au moins une huile siliconée volatile ou non volatile.

15. Composition selon la revendication 13, ladite huile hydrocarbonée étant choisie parmi les huiles hydrocarbonées volatiles en CB-C J Ô, les éthers de synthèse ayant de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone, les esters de synthèse, les esters de polyols et les esters du pentaérythritol, les alcools gras liquides à température ambiante à chaîne carbonée ramifiée et/ou insaturée ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, les acides gras supérieurs en C 12-C22 ; et leurs mélanges.

16. Composition selon Tune quelconque des revendications 6 à 15, ledit ingrédient additionnel étant au moins un composé choisi parmi les tensioactifs non ioniques, anioniques ou amphotères ; les charges ; les agents gélifiants ; et leurs mélanges.

17. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 16, ledit agent gélifiant étant :

- un gélifiant hydrophile choisi parmi les silices pyrogénées, les gélifiants polymériques synthétiques, les gélifiants polymériques naturels ou d'origine naturelle, les homo- ou copolymères d'acides acrylique ou méthacrylique, leurs sels ou leurs esters, les copolymères acide polyacryliques/acrylates d'alkyle, les copolymères AMPS/méthacrylates d'alkyle polyoxyéthylénés, réticulés ou non réticulés, les polymères de chitine ou de chitosane anioniques, cationiques, amphotères ou non-ioniques, les polymères de cellulose, distincts de l'alkylcellulose, choisis parmi l'hydroxyéthylcellulose, l'hydroxypropylcellulose, Phydroxyméthylcellulose, l'étl ylhydroxyéthyicellulose, la carboxyméthylcellulose, ainsi que les dérivés quaternisés de la cellulose, les polymères vinyliques et les polymères associatifs anioniques, cationiques, non-ioniques ou amphotères, les polymères d'origine naturelle modifiés ou non modifiés, les alginates et les carraghénanes, les glycoaminoglycanes, l'acide désoxyribonucléique, les muccopolysacc arides en particulier l'acide hyaluronique et ses dérivés, les chondroïtines sulfate, et leurs mélanges ;

- un gélifiant lipophile choisi parmi les gélifiants particulaires, les élastomères d'organopolysiloxane, les polymères semi-cristallins, les copolymères séquencés hydrocarbonés, les esters de dextrine, les polymères à liaison hydrogène et leurs mélanges ;

et leurs mélanges.

18. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 17, ledit ingrédient additionnel étant au moins un composé choisi parmi les actifs cosmétiques ; les vitamines ; les filtres anti-UV ; les matières colorantes, de préférence choisies parmi les pigments et les nacres ; les parfums ; et leurs mélanges.

19. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 18, caractérisée en ce que ladite composition se présente sous la forme d'une composition de soin et/ou de maquillage de la peau et/ou des ongles, du corps ou du visage, en particulier du visage, et est de préférence un. fond de teint, un fard à joues ou à paupières.

20. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 19, caractérisée en ce que ladite composition est dédiée au soin et/ou maquillage des lèvres et est de préférence un stick, un vernis ou un gloss.

21. Procédé de maquillage et/ou de soin de la peau et/ou des ongles comprenant au moins une étape d'application sur ladite peau et/ou lesdits ongles d'une composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de phyllo silicate synthétique de formule Mg3Si40io(OH)2.

22. Procédé selon la revendication précédente dans lequel ladite composition est telle que définie en revendications 6 à 20.

23. Procédé selon la revendication 21 ou 22, caractérisé en ce que ledit procédé est dédié à procurer un résultat maquillage matifiant et/ou homogène du. teint de la peau après application.

24. Procédé selon la revendication 21 ou 22, caractérisé en ce que ledit procédé est dédié à faciliter l'étalement sur la peau de la composition et à conduire à un dépôt homogène d'actifs sur la peau après application, notamment choisis parmi les actifs cosmétiques ; les vitamines ; les filtres anti-UV ; les matières colorantes, de préférence choisies parmi les pigments et les nacres ; les parfums ; et leurs mélanges.