FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to the field of textile processing. More particularly, the present invention relates to an interlining having authentication means to differentiate from counterfeit or substandard product. The invention further provides for a method of manufacturing a unique interlining textile with differential absorption pattern of optical brightening agents resulting in appearance of differential CIE (Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage) whiteness under the UV light.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Textile industry in itself is vast and has much technological advancement. Depending on the requirements; the processing of textiles is done to achieve desired texture, contour, thickness, strength and colors. In addition to fashion fabric or main fabric, there are several accessories in textiles. One such accessory is Interlining which is used between two layers of fabric in a garment. To keep the different components in a desired shape, a kind of fabric is used between the two ply of fabric by sewing or fusing is called interlining. Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, & flexible. Interlining is made of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool and viscose. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its properties, i.e. shrink resist finish, crease resist finish etc. There are mainly two types of interlinings: Sewn interlining or Non fusible interlining and Fusible interlining. Fusible interlining is the most used interlining. It is used by fusing on the fabric by applying heat and pressure for a certain time is called fusible interlining. Interlinings are made by processing woven or knit fabric with resin coating. On the basis of resin coating and its properties fusible interlining can be a Polyethylene coated interlining, Polyamide coated interlining, PVC Coated interlining, Polyester coated interlining, Polypropylene coated interlining, and PVA coated interlining. The fabric used to make interlining is generally able to give and recover as necessary to accommodate body movement. The lining material should be durable, opaque and colorfast to perspiration and body oils and the same care method as the fashion fabric. Lining must be the same weight or light weight and softer than the fashion fabric so that it doesn't dominate the garment. Lining fabric should be preshrunk before using. There are three basic steps required for fabric production. The first step in creating fabric is yarn production. Here, the raw materials that have been harvested and processed are transformed from raw fibers into yarn and threads. This is done by spinning the fibers. The vast majority of spinning is done by spinning wheel. The fibers are drawn across the wheel, and as it spins, the fibers are collected on a cylindrical object called a bobbin. The bobbin holds the spun fibers, which are now connected into a long strand of thread or yarn. In the next step, the bobbins will be transferred to another machine, where the joining of these individual threads together is done to form fabric. This process of joining the yarn together is called weaving. Weaving is done on a machine known as a loom and requires two sets of yarn. The first set, called the warp set, is strung tautly across a metal frame. The second, called the weft, is connected to metal rods, with one thread per rod. The loom is controlled by a computer, which lets the weft know how the fabric should be woven. After the fabric has been woven, it's removed from the loom and is ready for the final step: processing. Fabric that's fresh off the loom is called greige. It's discolored and full of impurities, seed particles and debris. Before it can be transformed into useful textiles, it is cleaned. First, it's treated with bleach to purify the base color. It is then treated with a variety of chemicals and cleaners to remove oils, wax and other elements that are naturally occurring in most fibers. It is generally noted that the quality and contour of interlining depends on the processes involved and quality maintained in fabric production. Deviation at any particular step results into substandard quality or finish of final garment.
State of the art technologies provide for processing techniques however, there is no authentication means which can guide the user regarding the quality assurance on an interlining. It is noteworthy that interlinings are accessories which are not visible once they are sewn into the garment. This means once a substandard interlining fabric is used in the garment, the final finish or the very purpose of the interlining may get defeated and the user will not be able to find out the reasons for the same. Even at the point of garment manufacturing, it is difficult to judge certain deviations in quality of interlinings with naked eye.

US3598689A relates to new and useful improvements in interlining materials adapted to be bonded by heat sealing to a surface of the cloth or fabric of a garment. More particularly, the invention relates to novel interlining material for use in wearing apparel such as coats, jackets and like garments, shirt and other collars as well as for stabilizing fabrics such as knit goods which normally are highly unstable.
DE102016006320 relates to a fixed to the sheet-like structure, particularly useful as a fusible interfacing - or lining material in the textile industry. The object of the present invention is, with the adhesive to provide a novel textile sheet like, as a storage-stable and non-adhesive intermediate products in the case of gentle fixing conditions in a later processing step, for example without the introduction of heat and/or at lower temperatures, or ideally at room temperature, can be laminated to an outer fabric.
But none of the disclosed state of the art provides any authentication means which can guide the user regarding the quality assurance on an interlining.
Therefore, there is a need to have an authentication/certification means inherent to the product which can be used for quality assurance.

OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
The main object of this invention is to provide a unique interlining with means of authentication/certification/identification.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a means for authentication in the form of differential CIE whiteness of the threads visible under UV light, in the fabric in preferred pattern/manner.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a process for manufacturing improved interlining with means of authentication/certification/identification.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a method of processing a textile with optical brightening agent in the fabric in preferred pattern/manner.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a method of weaving a textile fabric in preferred pattern/manner such that it is able to retain the authentication means.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to an interlining having authentication means to differentiate from counterfeit or substandard product. The invention further provides for a method of manufacturing a unique interlining textile with differential absorption pattern of optical brightening agents resulting in appearance of differential CIE whiteness under the UV light.
The most preferred embodiment of the current invention provides a method of manufacturing the interlining fabric wherein heterogeneous fibre combination is used to weave the fabric in a desired ratio. While weaving, warping is done preferably with processable yarn preferably, cotton yarn in weft, while in the weft, among other wefts of cotton yarn, one weft insert of unprocessable thread other than cotton is used (using double winder), such that the percentage of the unprocessable thread is in the range of 0-10. The unprocessable thread used can be of polyester, nylon, rayon, silk, or any other synthetic fiber having absorbent properties different from or similar to cotton yarn.
In yet another preferred embodiment of the present invention is a fabric having an authentication means, said fabric comprising: (a) a first yarn comprising at least one processable thread; and (b) a second yarn comprising one or more processable threads and at least one unprocessable thread; said first yarn and said second yarn weaved to form the fabric and said fabric is processed by treating with a bleaching agent and an optical brightening agent solution; wherein, the difference of CIE whiteness index between the processable and unprocessable threads varies in range from 1-30; said second yarn has processable and unprocessable thread in a ratio of 1-7: 40-90; said first yarn and said second yarn are weaved in a manner so as to achieve a desired pattern under a radiation; said pattern with different CIE whiteness index after said treatment of fabric forms the authentication means for said fabric.
In yet another embodiment the present invention relates to the method of manufacturing the interlining fabric wherein the step comprises of:
(a) stringing the warp set tightly across a metal frame;
(b) connecting the weft to metal rods, with one thread per rod;
(c) controlling the loom by a computer, which lets the weft directs the fabric how it should be woven;
(d) removing the loom after weaving the fabric, the fabric obtained is greige fabric;
(e) cleaning of the greige fabric obtained in step(d);
(f) treating the fabric obtained in step(e) with bleaching agents;
(g) treating the fabric obtained in step (f) with optical brightener with desired resins to achieve the finish required for the interlining;
wherein, the weft set and warp set has atleast one insert of a unprocessable thread other than cotton yarn in warping or weft or both; the weft and the warp thread count is 40 to 90 per square inch; the unprocessable thread preferably, polyester has thread count of 1 to 7 per square inch; the bleaching agents are preferably, caustic, peroxide, wetting agents, stabilisers and processes are used but only for cotton and not for the special inserts; the optical brightening agents are preferably, Fluorescent Whitening Agents (FWAs) for obtaining white colored interlining.
In alternate embodiment of the invention, while weaving, warping is done preferably with processable yarn preferably, cotton yarn in weft, where among threads of cotton yarn, one insert of unprocessable thread other than cotton is used, such that the percentage of the unprocessable thread in warping is in the range of 0-10. The insert of unprocessable thread can thus be done in warping or weft or both. In the further processing, at least one thread is mixed with resin in a desired concentration of optical brightening agent preferably, in range of 5 to 40 gpl (gram per litre) which gives the yarn different CIE whiteness index preferably in range of 135 to 155 making it differently visible under the UV light. Differential absorption pattern of optical brightening agents results in appearance of differential CIE whiteness under the UV light.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING
A complete understanding of the system and method of the present invention may be obtained by reference to the following drawing:
Figure 1 depicts the arrangement of weft threads along with unprocessable thread preferably polyester cotton blend per square inch in ratio of 1-7:40-90.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention will now be described hereinafter with reference some, but not all embodiments of the invention. Indeed, the invention may be embodied in many different forms and should not be construed as limited to the embodiments set forth herein; rather, these embodiments are provided so that this disclosure will satisfy applicable legal requirements.
In the most preferred embodiment of the current invention, the invention provides a method of manufacturing the interlining fabric wherein heterogeneous fibre combination is used to weave the fabric in a desired ration. While weaving warping is done preferably with processable yarn, preferably, cotton yarn in weft, while in the weft, among other wefts of cotton yarn, one weft insert of unprocessable thread other than cotton is used, such that the percentage of the unprocessable thread is in the range of 0-10.The unprocessable thread used can be of polyester, nylon, rayon, silk, or any other synthetic fiber having absorbent properties different from cotton yarn.

Figure 1 depicts the arrangement of weft threads along with unprocessable thread preferably polyester cotton blend per square inch in ratio of 1-7:40-90 wherein the weft and the warp thread count is 40 to 90 per square inch; the unprocessable thread preferably, polyester has thread count of 1 to 7 per square inch.

In an alternate embodiment of the present invention, while weaving, warping is done preferably with cotton yarn in weft, where among threads of cotton yarn, one insert of unprocessable thread other than cotton is used, such that the percentage of the unprocessable thread in warping is in the range of 0-10. The insert of unprocessable thread can thus be done in warping or weft or both. In the further processing, resin coating is mixed with desired concentration of optical brightening agent which gives the yarns different CIE whiteness index preferably in range of 135 to 155 making it differently visible under the UV light. Differential absorption pattern of optical brightening agents results in appearance of differential CIE whiteness under the UV light.

In another embodiment of the proposed invention are proposed contractions of the woven fabrics with greige GSM (Gram per Square Meter) ranging from 50 to 300 in widths ranging from 36” to 123”. The warping is done with cotton yarn. After the greige fabric is woven, it is taken for desizing/shrinking and bleaching. Many bleaching agents preferably, caustic, peroxide, wetting agents, stabilisers and processes are used but only for cotton and not for the special inserts. The process slightly differs depending on the desired product. For instance, for obtaining white colored interlining, the bleached fabric is taking to the stenter wherein the optical brightener preferably, Fluorescent Whitening Agents (FWAs) is added with desired resins preferably, Formaldehyde free cross linking agents chemicals and softeners with colour to achieve the finish required for the interlining. All this process is done for processable thread preferably cotton only, leaving out the other threads of unprocessable thread. The process results into an interlining which starts to reflect, under UV light, the threads which we finished as cotton. This is achieved by increasing the CIE whiteness index of cotton in comparison to the other unprocessable threads used. The differential CIE whiteness index of different yarns makes the authentication tool for identifying the quality and/or source or the interlining manufacturer.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the processed fabric can be used as an interlining without coating to obtain non-fusible interlining. Alternately, the fabric can undergo another step of process of coating to obtain fusible interlining. In both the cases the objective of the process remains identification/authentication i.e. after application the threads can be observed under UV light.

In an alternate embodiment of the present invention for interlining of off white colour, the bleached fabric is taking to the stenter where desired resins preferably, formaldehyde free cross linking agents, chemicals and softeners with colour are added to achieve the finish required for the interlining. All this process is done for cotton only, leaving out the other threads of unprocessable threads. The process results into a unique interlining having different yarns which under UV light reflect differently due to the difference in their respective CIE whiteness indices. This is achieved by increasing the CIE whiteness index of cotton in comparison to the other unprocessable threads used where charcoal and black colored interlining as end product is desirous, normal bleaching is performed followed by dyeing and finishing is done as per the standards. In this case also, different threads glow differently under UV, thus provides a means for authenticating/certifying/identifying the source of the end product by the end user.

In yet another preferred embodiment the present invention relates to the method of manufacturing the interlining fabric wherein the step comprises of:
(a) stringing the warp set tightly across a metal frame;
(b) connecting the weft to metal rods, with one thread per rod;
(c) controlling the loom by a computer, which lets the weft directs the fabric how it should be woven;
(d) removing the loom after weaving the fabric, the fabric obtained is greige fabric;
(e) cleaning of the greige fabric obtained in step(d);
(f) treating the fabric obtained in step(e) with bleaching agents;
(g) treating the fabric obtained in step (f) with optical brightener with desired resins to achieve the finish required for the interlining;
wherein, the weft set and warp set has atleast one insert of a unprocessable thread other than cotton yarn in warping or weft or both; the weft and the warp thread count is 40 to 90 per square inch; the unprocessable thread preferably, polyester has thread count of 1 to 7 per square inch; the bleaching agents are preferably, caustic, peroxide, wetting agents, stabilisers and processes are used but only for cotton and not for the special inserts; the optical brightening agents are preferably, Fluorescent Whitening Agents (FWAs) for obtaining white colored interlining.

Yet another preferred embodiment of the present invention is a fabric having an authentication means, said fabric comprising:
(a) a first yarn comprising at least one processable thread; and
(b) a second yarn comprising one or more processable threads and at least one unprocessable thread; said first yarn and said second yarn weaved to form the fabric and said fabric is processed by treating with a bleaching agent and an optical brightening agent solution; wherein, the difference of CIE whiteness index between the processable and unprocessable threads varies in range from 1-30; said second yarn has processable and unprocessable thread in a ratio of 1-7: 40-90; said first yarn and said second yarn are weaved in a manner so as to achieve a desired pattern under a radiation; said pattern with different CIE whiteness index after said treatment of fabric forms the authentication means for said fabric.

In yet another alternate embodiment of the invention, while weaving, warping is done preferably with processable yarn preferably, cotton yarn in weft, where among threads of cotton yarn, one insert of unprocessable thread other than cotton is used, such that the percentage of the unprocessable thread in warping is in the range of 0-10. The insert of unprocessable thread can thus be done in warping or weft or both. In the further processing, at least one thread is mixed with resin in a desired concentration of optical brightening agent preferably, in range of 5 to 40 gpl (gram per litre) which gives the yarn different CIE whiteness index preferably in range of 135 to 155 making it differently visible under the UV light. Differential absorption pattern of optical brightening agents results in appearance of differential CIE whiteness under the UV light.

In still another embodiment of the present invention, plurality of weaving patterns using heterogeneous thread linings is proposed wherein specific design designate a particular quality/contour/physical attributes of the product for convenience of the end user, wherein the weaving pattern is visible under the UV light or alternately under any radiation including but not limited to IR, thermal radiation or alike. The patterns thus visible assist the end user in identifying or confirming authenticity of the product.

Many modifications and other embodiments of the invention set forth herein will readily occur to one skilled in the art to which the invention pertain having the benefit of the findings presented in the aforementioned descriptions and the associated drawings. Therefore, it is to be understood that the invention is not to be limited to the specific embodiments disclosed and that modifications and other embodiments are intended to be included within the scope of the description. Although specific terms are employed herein, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only and not for purposes of limitation.

We claim:
1. A fabric having an authentication means, said fabric comprising:
(a) a first yarn comprising at least one processable thread; and
(b) a second yarn comprising one or more processable threads and at least one unprocessable thread;
said first yarn and said second yarn weaved to form the fabric and said fabric is processed by treating with a bleaching agent and an optical brightening agent solution;
wherein,
the difference of CIE whiteness index between the processable and unprocessable threads varies in range from 1-30;

said second yarn has processable and unprocessable thread in a ratio of 1-7: 40-90;

said first yarn and said second yarn are weaved in a manner so as to achieve a desired pattern under a radiation; and

said pattern with different CIE whiteness index after said treatment of fabric forms the authentication means for said fabric.

2. The fabric as claimed in claim 1 wherein, the unprocessable thread is selected from a non-limiting group comprising polyester, nylon, rayon, silk, or any other synthetic fiber having absorbent properties different from cotton yarn.

3. The fabric as claimed in claim 1 wherein, the processable thread is cotton or a thread having absorbent properties similar to those of cotton.

4. The fabric as claimed in claim 1 wherein, the unprocessable thread forms composition in range of 1-10 % of the fabric.

5. The fabric as claimed in claim 1 wherein, the concentration of optical brightening agents is preferably, in range of 5 to 40 gpl.

6. The fabric as claimed in claim 1 wherein, the optical brightening agents are preferably, Fluorescent Whitening Agents (FWAs).

7. The fabric as claimed in claim 1 wherein, the unprocessable thread has a thread count of 1 to 7 per square inch of said fabric.

8. The fabric as claimed in claim 1 wherein, said first yarn and said second yarn is processed by treating with a bleaching agent and an optical brightening agent solution, and said first yarn and said second yarn is weaved to form the fabric.

9. The fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the desired pattern is visible under the radiation including but not limited to a UV light, IR, thermal radiation or alike and assists the end user in authenticating the product.

10. The fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fabric is an interlining fabric.