Field of the Invention
[0001] The present invention relates, generally, to textile manufacturing, and
more particularly to an improved melange fabric and a process for producing the
melange fabric in a significantly reduced lead time without using harmful
chemicals.
Background of the Invention
[0002] Conventionally, a melange fabric is produced using two or more melange
yarns of different colours to achieve a desired melange effect. The process of
producing a melange yam including one or more colours, generally, comprises
spinning of two or more dyed fibres of desired colours. However, dyeing of fibres
for producing melange yarns includes the use of chemicals such as salt and alkali
such as caustic soda and soda ash, which add to effluent treatment plant load, and
is therefore not eco-friendly. Further, it has been observed that the process of fibre
dyeing is time consuming and preparation of melange fabric from melange yarns
produced from dyed fibres limits the wet process after weaving of yarns.
Furthermore, preparation of melange fabric from melange yarns does not support
mercerization, thereby, compromising fabric strength, durability and lustre.
Additionally, some available post mercerization finishes include usage of highly
expensive reactive dyes. Yet further, it has been observed that melange fabrics
produced from melange yarns exhibit lot to lot shade variation, variation in yarns
ratio, and spots due to non-homogeneous fibre mixing. Yet further, production of
melange fabric from melange yams of pre-decided colours further increases lead
time in the event a new colour is desired for melange effect.
[0004] In light of the aforementioned drawbacks, there is a need to provide a
melange fabric and a process for producing the same, which is eco-friendly.
Further, there is a need to provide a melange fabric and a process which reduces
load 011 effluent treatment plants by eliminating the use of chemicals such as salt,
caustic soda and soda ash during dyeing. Further, there is a need to provide a
melange fabric and a process for producing the same which reduces the use of
inorganic reactive dyes and minimizes the time required for dyeing. Furthennore,
there is a need to provide a melange fabric which exhibits enhanced quality,
coinfort and performance. Yet further, there is a need to provide a process which
significantly reduces lead time and cost of manufacturing of the melange fabric.
Yet further, there is a need to provide a process which provides enhanced
productivity of the melange fabric and prevents shade variations. Yet further,
there is a need for a process for producing the melange fabric which provides
flexibility in the choice of colours for melange effect.
Summary of the invention
[0003] A process for producing an improved melange fabric by eliminating the
use of harmful chemicals is provided. In various embodiments of the present
invention, the process comprises the steps of enhancing affinity of a fibre towards a
reactive dye, wherein enhancing affinity of a fibre includes cationizing the fibre with
cationization agents which are eco-friendly. Further, the process includes foiming an
affinity enhanced yam by spinning affinity enhanced fibre with a greige fibre.
Furthermore, the process includes producing an affinity enhanced fabric by weaving
the affinity enhanced yarn with other yarn. The other yarn may be selected from a
group comprising cationized yarn and non-cationized yarns. Yet further, the
process comprises processing the affinity enhanced fabric, where processing
includes mercerizing the affinity enhanced fabric to enhance fabric quality,
comfort and performance. Finally, the process comprises creating a melange effect
on the inercerised processed fabric by dyeing said fabric, wherein the melange effect
is created using aqueous solution of dye without inorganic electrolytes or alkalis,
thereby reducing chemical load and water effluent, and further wherein dyeing at the
fabric stage provides flexibility of choice of colours for producing melange effect.
[0004] An improved melange fabric is provided. In various embodiments of the
present invention, the improved melange fabric comprises an affinity enhanced
fabric with melange effect. The affinity enhanced fabric comprises an affinity
enhanced yarn interwoven with a non-cationized yarn. The affinity enhanced
fabric has an enhanced colour uniformity along with improved quality, comfort and
performance.
Bricf Description of the Drawings
[0005] The present invention is described by way of embodiments illustrated in
the accompanying drawings wherein:
[0006] Fig. 1 is a flowchart illustrating a process of producing an improved
melange fabric, in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention;
Detailed Description of the Invention
[0007] The present invention provides a melange fabric and a process for
producing the same, in accordance with various embodiments of the present
invention. The process of the present invention provides a melange fabric by
eliminating the use of chemicals such as salt, caustic soda and soda ash during
dyeing. Further, the process of the present invention provides for a melange fabric
exhibiting enhanced quality, comfort and performance. In particular, the present
invention provides for enhancing the affinity of a fibre towards a reactive dye via a
green technology. The green technology includes cationization of fibre without using
harmful cationization agents, thus eliminating the use of harmful chemicals
completely. In particular, the green technology uses cationization agents such as
organic amino compounds which are eco-friendly. Further, the affinity enhanced
cotton fibre is blended with a greige fibre and spun into an affinity enhanced yarn.
The affinity enhanced yarn is interwoven with other yam to provide an affinity
enhanced fabric. The other yam may be a non-cationized yarn or a cationized yarn.
The affinity enhanced fabric is further processed, where processing the fabric
includes mercerization to enhance fabric quality, comfort and performance. Further,
the fabric is dyed using one or more pad dyeing techniques. The melange effect is
achieved on the fabric after dyeing stage of the pad dyeing technique without the use
of chemicals. Further, the step of dyeing at fabric stage provides flexibility in the
choice of coloui-s for melange effect, reduces colour variation and sig~lificantly
reduces lead time. Furthermore, the process of present invention, eliminates the use
of excessive dyes and chemicals, and is eco-friendly.
I00081 The disclosure is provided in order to enable a person having ordinary skill
in the ai-t to practice the invention. Exemplary einbodiinellts herein are provided
only for illustrative purposes and various modifications will be readily apparent to
persons skilled in the ai-t. The general principles defined herein ]nay be applied to
other embodiments and applications without depai-ting fi-om the spirit and scope
of the invention. The tenninology and phraseology used herein is for the purpose
of describing exemplary e~nbodiinents and should not be considered limiting.
Thus, the present invention is to be accorded the widest scope encompassing
numerous alternatives, modifications and equivalents consisteilt with the
principles and features disclosed herein. For purposes of clarity, details relating to
technical material that is known in the technical fields related to the invention
have been briefly described or omitted so as not to unnecessarily obscure the
present invention.
(00091 It is to be noted that, as used in the specification by the term
"substantially" it is meant that the recited characteristic, parameter, or value need
not be achieved exactly, but that deviations or variations, including for example,
tolerances, measurement error, measurement accuracy limitations and other
factors known to those skilled in the art, may occur in amounts that do not
preclude the effect the characteristic was intended to provide.
[0010] The present invention would now be discussed in context of embodiments
as illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
[0011] Fig. 1 is a flowchart illustrating a process of producing a melange fabric,
in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention.
[0012] At step 102 affinity of a fibre towards reactive dye is enhanced. In an
embodiment of the present invention, the fibre is selected for the formation of a
yarn. The examples of fibre may include, but are not limited to, cotton fibre,
cotton blends comprising regenerated fibre, polyester etc. The affinity of the fibre
towards the dye is enhanced via a green technology. The green technology
includes cationizing the fibre using cationization agents that are eco-friendly.
Further, the increased affinity of fibre further enhances colour fixation during
dyeing stage as explained later in the specification.
[0013] In an embodiment of the present invention, eilhancing affinity of the cottoil
fibre iilcludes placing the cotton fibre in a tank filled with water as per MLR 1 :6
and ti-eating the cotton fibre with a non-ionic wetting agent. In particular, a weight
ratio of six parts of water foi- 1 part of cotton fibre is required. For example the
tank may be filled with 6 litres of water for lkg of cotton fibre. In another
embodiment of the present invention, the MLR lnay range fi-om 1 :6 to 1 :20. The
example of non-ionic wetting agent may include, but is not limited to zultravon
CPR. In an exemplary embodiment of the present invention the weight of the
wetting agent is substantially 2gpl. The cotton fibre is treated with the non-ionic
wetting agent for 20 minutes at room temperature. Water is drained from the tank.
Further, the tank is refilled with water as per MLR 1 :6 and is treated with the nonionic
wetting agent weighing 2 gpl at room temperature for 20 mins and run for
10 inins. A certain weight of NaOH flakes preferably 15 gpl are added and diluted
in the tank. Further, a cationization chemical is separately prepared in
recommended predefined dosage and added to the tank to prepai-e a final solution
before transferring to an HTHP (high temperature high pressure) machine. In a
preferred embodiment of the present invention, the final solution is immediately
transferred to the machine after mixing both NaOH flakes and the Cationization
chemical. The temperature of the solution is raised from rooin temperature to 80
degrees Celsius. The solution is sun for 30 mins after raising the temperature to 80
degrees Celsius.
[0014] Water in the tank is partially drained upto a certain level and the cotton
fibre is washed for 20 minutes with water at 95 degrees Celsius. Water in the tank
is further drained upto another level and the cotton fibre is again washed for 20
minutes with hot water at 95 degrees. Water in the tank is partially drained upto
yet another level and the cotton fibre is washed for 15 minutes with hot water at
95 degrees. Thereafter, water from the tank is drained and the cotton fibre is
washed with cold water for 15 minutes. Subsequent to washing of the cotton fibre,
pH of water collected in the tank is determined. If the pH of the collected water is
equivalent to a predetermined pH value, 1 gpl of acetic acid is added and run for
10 ininutes. If the pH of collected water is not equivalent to the predetennined pH
value, pH of collected water is adjusted to the predeteilnined range. In an
exemplary embodiment of present invention, the predetennined value of pH is 8.
Thereafter, the pH of the collected water is adjusted to another predetermined pH
range and the water is drained. In an exemplary einbodiment of the pi-esent
invention, the predetermined range of pH is 6-7. Thereafter, the cotton fibre is
dried, such that the cotton fibre exhibits enhanced affinity towards reactive dyes.
[0015] At step 104, an affinity enhanced yaim is fonned by spinning the affinity
enhanced fibre with a greige fibl-e. In an embodiment of the present invention,
examples of greige fibre include but are not limited to raw cotton fibres, regenerated
fibres and polyester fibre. In an embodiment of the present invention, the affinity
enhanced yarn has a count in the range of 30s-I 00s. In an einbodiinent of the present
invention, 1-20% cationized fibre is mixed with greige fibre and spun into a yam. In
an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, 95% greige cotton fibre is spun
with 5% affinity enhanced fibre.
[0016] At step 106, affinity enhanced fabric is prepared by weaving the affinity
enhanced yarn with other yarn. In particular, the affinity enhanced yam is interwoven
with the other yarn to create one or more weaving patterns. The other yarn
may be a cationized yarn or a non-cationized yarn. In an exemplary einbodiinent of
the present invention, the other yarn is a non-cationized yam. In the exemplary
embodiment of the present invention, 5% affinity enhanced yam is interwoven with
95% non-cationized yarn. The examples of weaving patterns may include, but are
not limited to, stripes, checks, dobby and jacquard patterns. The examples of noncationized
yams may include, but are not limited to cotton, polyester and yarns
made from regenerated fibres. In an exeinplary embodiment of the present
invention, the non-cationized yam is a cotton yarn with a count ranging from 30s
to 100s.
[0017] At step 108, the affinity enhanced fabric is mercerised. In particular, the
affinity enhanced yarn is processed, where processing of the fabric includes, but is
not liinited to singeing, mercerization along with desizing, scouring and bleaching of
the fabric. In another embodiment of the present invention, processing of the fabric
includes singeing, mercerization, desizing and scouring. In yet another embodiment
of the present invention, processing of the fabric includes singeing, inercerization
desizing, scouring, bleaching and printing. The step of inercerization at this stage
enhances fabric quality, coinfort and performance. Printing hrther coinprises silver
print, gold print and discharge print techniques to create one or more print effects.
Example of bleaching agent include, but is not limited to hydrogen peroxide.
Examples of scouring agent include, but are not liinited to mild alkali with a
wetting agent.
[0018] The processed fabric is subsequently dyed using one oi- Inore dyeing
techniques including, but not limited to, cold pad batch, pad dry pad steam, pad
huinidifix and pad steam method.
[0019] At step 11 0, melange effect is created on the mercerized processed fabric.
In an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, three light colour shades
including grey, pink and blue were developed on the mercerized processed fabric
using the following dyeing techniques cold pad batch, pad-dry-pad steam, padhuinidifix
and pad-steam. It was observed that the results in relation to shade
build-up, depth and fastness were comparable for all the techniques. However,
pad steam technique provided the same effect in a shorter time duration due to
instant padding and washing OFF. In an exemplary embodiment of the present
invention, the processed fabric is dyed using pad-steam dyeing technique to create
melange effect due to shorter dyeing cycle of the pad steam dyeing technique.
Further, the step of dyeing at fabric stage increases colour uniformity and provides
flexibility in the choice of colours required for melange effect.
[0020] In an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, a dye reactive to be
used during pad steam for colour shades grey, pink and blue is prepared using the
concentration of dye colours as shown in Table 1 :
l ~ ~ e s ( ~ e a G i v eG) lr ey 1 Pink I Blue I
Yellow
Red
Table 1
0.25
I I I
[0021] In an exemplary einbodiinent of the present invention, dyeing machine
parameters pertaining to padding and steaming to achieve the maximum output
and enhanced quality are illustrated in the Table 2 below:
0.2
0.05
Blue
Table 2
8
0.12 1
0.8
0.5 ------
Machine Speed (mlmin
Trough Volume (Litre)
Trough Temperature (C)
-
Steamer Teinperatui-e (C)
Steamer Dwell Time (inin)
0.3
4
7 5
80
32
102
1
[0022] Additionally, the speed parameter of the machine may be changed based
on the shade colour grey, pink and blue and its sti-engtl~.
[0023] In the exelnplary elnbodilne~lt of the present invention, the washing
parameters to achieve the desired melange effect are illustrated in the Table 3
below:
Table 3
Washer No. Temp Set ('C)
-
---
M2 1 95 9 5 -
-
Soaping(
M22 9 5 9 5 Eriopon R- 2
g ~ l )
[0024] The melange effect is achieved on the fabric during pad dyeing without the
use of harmful chemicals. In pai-ticular, no inorganic electrolytes or alkalis are
used in chemical wet processing during dying, and only aqueous solution of dye is
used, thereby reducing chemical load and water affluent. Advantageously, in
accordance with various embodiments of the present invention, the process of the
present invention, may be used to provide a melange fabric without the use of
excessive dye and chemicals. Fui-ther, the process of the preseilt invention reduces
lead time, effluent load and is ei~vironment friendly as shown in Table 4 and
Table 5 below:
M23
M24
6 0
50
Total Lead Time
Stage
70
55
Fibre
dyeing
4
0.5 pH-5.0
Cationi
zing
pi-ocess
Spinnin
6
Process
Weavin
6
PI-epera
Weavin
g
Fabric
process
ing
Fabric
Dyeing
Finishill
g
Total
Table 4
[0025] As shown in Table 5, total lead time for the melange fabric produced in
accordance with the process of the present invention is reduced approximately by
90% in comparison to the melange fabric produced by conventional fibre dyeing
process.
Parameter Normal fabric dyeing effl
Table 5
Fabric cationic melange
effluent
PH 10.01 8.2
E. C. ( pslc~n) 1230 242
TDS (mgll) 800 158
[0026] Further, as shown in Table 6, the process of the present invention
significantly reduces fabric dyeing effluent. In an exenlplary embodiment of the
2
1
0.82
12 2 -
present invention, TDS of effluent input water for the melange fabric produced in
TSS (mgll)
Turbiditv (NTU)
accordance with the process of the present invention is 1 0 PPM.
10
14
[0027] In various embodiinents of the present invention, an improved melange
fabric coinprising a melange effect is provided. The melange fabric comprises an
affinity enhanced yam interwoven with a non-cationized yam to provide an
affinity enhanced fabric, where the affinity enhanced fabric is inercerised and
dyed using organic dyes to create melange effect. The improved melange fabric
exhibits increased colour fixation and colour uniformity. Further, the melange fabric
exhibits improved quality, comfort and performance. In particular in an embodiment
of the present invention, the affinity enhanced yam is interwoven with the noncationized
yam to create one or more weaving patterns. The examples of weaving
patterns may include, but are not limited to, stripes, checks, dobby and jacquard
patterns. In an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the melange
fabric comprises 5% affinity enhanced yarn and 95% non-cationized yarn. In an
embodiinent of the present invention, the affinity enhanced yam may be used as
warp or weft. In an exemplary embodiinent to the present invention, the affinity
enhanced yam is used as warp and the non-cationized yarn is used as weft.
[0028] Examples of non-cationized yams and affinity enhanced yams may
include, but are not limited to cotton, polyester and yams made from regenerated
fibres. In an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the non-cationized
yarn is a cotton yam with a count ranging from 30s to 100s. In an exemplary
embodiinent of the present invention, the affinity enhanced yarn has a count
ranging from 30s to 1 00s.
[0029] In an embodiment of the present invention, the affinity enhanced yarn is
spun from an affinity enhanced fibre with a greige fibre. The affinity enhanced
fibre is a fibre selected from a group coinprising of cotton fibres, cotton blends
including regenerated fibre, polyester etc. which is cationized to increase the
affinity of fibre towards dye. In various einbodiinents of the present invention,
affinity of the selected fibi-e towards the dye is enhanced via a green technology.
The green technology includes cationizing the fibre using cationization agents
which are eco-friendly. In an embodiment of the present invention, examples of
greige fibre include, but are not limited to raw cotton fibres, regenerated fibi-es and
polyester fibre. In an embodi~nento f the present invention, 1-20% cationized fibre is
mixed with gseige fibi-e and spun into a yam. In an exemplary embodiinent of the
pi-esent invention, 95% gseige cotton fibre is spun with 5% affinity enhanced fibre.
[0030] I11 an e~nbodiineilt of the present invention, the affinity enhanced fabi-ic is
processed, where the processing of the fabric includes, but is not liinited to singeing,
lnercerization along with desizing, scouring and bleaching of the fabric. In another
embodiment of the present invention, processing of the fabric includes singeing,
inel-cei-ization, desizing and scouring. In yet another einbodiinent of the present
invention, processing of the fabric includes singeing, inercerization, desizing,
scouring, bleaching and printing. Printing further coinprises silver print, gold pi-int
and dischai-ge print techniques to create one or inore print effects. Mercerization
enhances fabric quality, comfort and perfoimance. Example of bleaching agent
include, but is not limited to hydrogen peroxide. Examples of scouring agent
include, but are not liinited to mild alkali with a wetting agent. Table 6 below,
shows comparison between the physical properties of the melange fabric of the
present invention with a conventional melange fabric. The melange fabric of the
present invention as shown in Table 6 coinprises affinity enhanced cotton yams
and non-cationized cotton yams in the ratio 5:95. The conventional melange
fabric is a 1 00% cotton blend.
-00% col
rlNG
METER
Table 6
L.
Nor
Cation
! presen
ention
I00311 As shown in Table 6, the nlela~lgef abi-ic of the present invention exhibits
enhanced di~nensional stability, reduced surface pilling and improved appearance
"4elan~1e1 00%
Surface Pilling 3.0
Overall appearance 2-3
Surface Pilling 2-3
Overall appearance 2-3
4.0
--4.0
4.0
4.0
after several wash cycles, thereby the melange fabric of the present invention has
enhanced quality, comfort and performance.
[0032] The processed fabric is subsequently dyed using one or inore dyeing
techniques including, but not limited to cold pad batch, pad dry pad steam, pad
humidifix and pad steam method. In the exemplary embodiment of the present
invention, three light colour shades including grey, pink and blue were developed
on processed fabric using the following dyeing techniques cold pad batch, paddry-
pad steam, pad-humidifix and pad-steam. It was observed that the results in
relation to shade build-up, depth and fastness were comparable for all the
techniques. However, pad steam technique provided the same effect in a shorter
time duration due to instant padding and washing off.
[0033] In an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the processed fabric is
dyed using.pad-steam dyeing technique to create melange effect due to shorter
dyeing cycle of the pad steam dyeing technique. Further, dyeing at fabric stage
increases colour uniformity and provides flexibility in choosing one or more colours
for melange effect.
[0034] While the exemplary embodiments of the present invention are described
and illustrated herein, it will be appreciated that they are merely illustrative. It will
be understood by those skilled in the art that various modifications in form and
detail inay be made therein without departing from the scope of the invention
except as it ]nay be described by the following claims.

We Claim:
1. A process for producing an improved melange fabric, said process
coinprising the steps of
enhancing affinity of a fibre towards a reactive dye, wherein enhancing
affinity of a fibre includes cationising the fibre;
foiming an affinity enhanced yarn by spinning affinity enhanced fibre
with a greige fibre;
producing an affinity enhanced fabric by weaving the affinity enhanced
yarn with other yarn, wherein the other yam may be selected froin a group
comprising cationized yarn and non-cationized yarns;
processing the affinity enhanced fabric, wherein processing includes
mercerizing the affinity enhanced fabric to enhance fabric quality, comfort
and performance; and
creating a melange effect on the mercerised processed fabric by dyeing
said fabric, wherein the melange effect is created using aqueous solution of dye
without inorganic electrolytes or alkalis, thereby reducing chemical load and
water effluent, and further wherein dyeing at the fabric stage provides flexibility
of choice of colours for producing melange effect.
2. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fabric is dyed using
a pad dyeing technique.
3. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the lead time for the
production of the melange fabric is reduced by approximately 90%.
4. The process as claimed in claiml, wherein the processing of the
affinity enhanced fabric includes singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching and
pi-inting along with inercerization.
5. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the affinity enhanced
fibre ]nay be selected from a group comprising of cotton fibre, cotton blends
including regenerated fibre, and polyester.
6. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the count of the affinity
enhanced yarn ranges from 30s to 100s.
7. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein 1-20% cationized fibre
is mixed with greige fibre and spun into a yarn.
8. The process as claimed in claiin 1, wherein the greige fibre may be
selected froin a group comprising of raw cotton fibres, regenerated fibres and
polyester fibre.
9. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cationized and noncationized
yarns are selected from a group comprising of cotton, polyester and
yarns made from regenerated fibres.
10. The process as claimed in claim I, wherein the non-cationized
yarn is a cotton yarn with a count ranging from 30s to 100s.
11 .A melange fabric produced from the method as claimed in claiin 1.
12.An improved inelange fabric comprising an affinity enhanced
fabric with melange effect, the affinity enhanced fabric co~nprisinga n affinity
enhanced yam interwoven with a non-cationized yarn, the affinity enhanced
fabric having an enhanced colour uniformity along with improved quality,
coinfort and performance.
13.The melange fabric as claimed in claim 12, wherein the affinity
enhanced yam includes 1-20% cationized fibre and 80-99% greige fibre.
14.The inelange fabric as claimed in claim 13, wherein the affinity
eilhailced fabric includes 5% cationized yarn and 95% non-cationized yarn.